Hello!thank you for your video! I see you have a different hose which looks more flexible… is this extension from Fuji as well? I appreciate your reply, thank you in advance!
Does the Fuji handle lacquers and varnishes, with fairly low flash points? I have a Wagner Paint-Ready machine and I was told it cannot be used with lacquers or varnishes.
I spray from a good sized compressor with i believe no water issues at all. First I have an auto dump valve that comes on for 15 seconds every time the compressor starts, which blows any collected water from the tank into the yard. The hvlp regulator is connected to a ball valve on the main hp air supply, opening that ball valve, i adjust the regulator for the hvlp gun to the desired pressure. I use a dryer on the hvlp line, which will also remove water from the air line. That guy dumps every time automatically when i shut that ball valve off. I spray just about everything. Don't bother with the auto-dump valves from Harbour Freight, they just do not last, get a good one. I went this route to save some coin, and not have another piece of hardware to maintain. Has worked well for 2+ years so far. Great Video...... always enjoy seeing how others get their projects done, always learning something from someone.....
I'm looking for a video to show my shop guys how to handle a gun. I was hoping you would move the whole gun along a path either vertically or horizontally to keep the axis of pattern perfectly perpendicular with the work for an even coat. But in the segment I watched you're doing exactly what I'm trying to teach them not to - just pivoting at the elbow or shoulder and spaying in a lazy arc.
I been wondering the same thing. I see a LOT of videos that show HVLP sprayers pivoting wrist/arm.. and I always read you want to keep it equadistant like 4" to 6" away perpendicular all the way through
That's Bootsie, a Pony of the Americas. We wrapped up a photo shoot in my shop, and my daughter was walking the horse around the yard. One thing lead to another, and Bootsie ended up in the shop with ear muffs, safety glasses, and a pencil behind her ear. We entertained creating some kind of "no horsing around in the shop" thing with it, but never got around to it. Bootsie lived to be an amazing 41 years old.
I have an Hvlp procomp. I am into my 2nd year using the machine. With frustration on changing paint or refilling the paint 1/2 gallon pot. Seems like I do fine on 1st filling then it’s not flowing afterwards. I’m using sherwin Williams urethane trim. I love the results but performance is too unpredictable.
this is a multi stage unit with extra controls on the gun . some units have fewer stages like a two stage earlex where one can only set the volume of liquid . the tip rotates to produce three different patterns but thats it . i mention this so people don't purchase a lesser quality unit thinking they will be getting your set up.
robydean7, symptoms, as in how to know it is happening? If that is your question, then observe the finish as it hits while watching from the side (orient yourself as if you are a second person watching from the side a few inches away). Then spray while adjusting the master air-flow control. You should then be able to see how bounce-back varies with high or low total air flow. With my gun, I lower to master air flow as much as I can while still getting good atomization and patter to reduce overspray. If you are in a situation where getting lots of finish on a large area quickly is the main goal, then crank it up.
Prmskeepr That’s the beauty of this low pressure revolution. In the old days only a tiny amount of the paint went on the target. Now, the overwhelming majority does, and what doesn’t, doesn’t come flying off with much force, so the particles hang airborne long enough to dry and become dust and not land as a wet film and paint something. You just need to cover things that are really close and arrange for some form of positive airflow in your shop like a window fan (blowing out of course, with the inbound air source being filtered).
I own one of these.Spraying any waterborne or latex always was a big problem with this unit. We always had to thin it way down (beyond any paint manufacturers specs) to get it to work. Unless we were missing something?
try to spray latex with a compressed HVLP, you will have to dilute, otherwise you will get big droplets, at the end if you want to spray automotive paint, primer or an enamel for an iron fence you need to dilute, unless you are spraying something thin like a stain
You should be able to spray waterborne lacquer, polyurethane and tinted lacquer without having to do any thinning whatsoever. As far as latex paint is concerned, then the answer is yes, you will have to thin it. In my experience, the clerks at most paint supply stores have very little experience spraying latex usng turbine HVLP systems and therefore are not a reliable source of information. And, the information on the paint tins from those places and the big-box stores in particular, is most likely misleading. Go to a paint supplier who sells to professionals, to get the advice you need regarding the amount of thinning needed for proper results. Get yourself a viscosity cup so that you can measure the "thickness" of the paint in order to ensure you're not under or over-thinning it. Then, get yourself some Floetrol to add to the thinned paint so that it will offset the thinning effect of the water and help with the drying of the finish. Again, a good paint supply house should be able to provide you proper advice. Hope this all helps.
HVLP means high volume, LOW pressure. My HVLP with 4 stage turbine is running wide open at 12psi. I can dial it down if needed. Compressors need to start and stop to replenish air. This can cause spitting or loss of product in mid spray-on larger surfaces. Thus ruining the finish especially on higher-end jobs. The turbines provide continous clean air at correct low pressure. I wish this video compared the gravity vs. the cup feed. He showed the cup in describing controls but used the gravity feed on the piece he sprayed.
Very informative. The one thing that always seems to be missing is the cleaning and maintenance of a HVLP sprayer. What do you with extra finish in the pots? Do you need to clean between coats left to dry overnight? What needs to be done between uses? Should you have multiple guns? Any help would be appreciated. As you can see, I am intimidated by finishing.
If unthinned, I put residual finish back in the original container. If thinned, I have some spare storage containers. Cups are frequently made of aluminum, may or may not be lined, and can react with the finish if allowed to stay in the cup too long. 8-12 hours is probably OK, 8-12 days is NOT OK. Clean the gun & pot (cup-under guns can use liners) with the solvent designed for the finish sprayed. I spray >90% of the time with either waterborne finishes or shellac. So water or denatured alcohol. And, until they fully cure, most polyurethanes are susceptible to ammonia. And so is shellac. So keep some household sudsy ammonia around. I run it 50:50 with water through the gun and it absolutely removes the residual finish. Also good with a toothbrush to clean the cup gasket. Rinse thoroughly with water. Then run the gun "dry" to dry out the passages. Clean the needle, nozzle and aircap with the compatible solvent. Dry and store appropriately. Multiple guns are a good idea if you are moving back and forth between non-compatible finishes. Or you can invest in extra cups for the cup-under design. Gravity feed cups are usually a little more finicky to change. Or the 3M system which is very clever and fast cleanup. When pricing out a system, remember to budget for accessories such as additional sizes of needle/nozzle/air cap, good respirator & OV cartridges, replacement parts like gaskets and air filters and material to knock together some kind of spray booth or spray area. Pick up a copy of Jeff Jewitt's book on spray finishing. Some info is getting a bit long in the tooth but the basic principles remain the same.
TheRwyoung Good on ya for taking the time to fully answer this fellows question. I remember how long it took to get to this point and how hard it was to overcome cleaning mistakes.
WoodRodent TheRwyoung gave you great advice to which I’ll add: put a little of the solvent for whatever paint you’re using into one of those extra cups he advised you to buy before you start shooting because something always happens, kids, dogs, tornados, and you may want to quickly Sanaa off the paint cup and cover it, put on the solvent cup and shoot it until only solvent comes out, and then leave it hooked up while you put out the fire to protect the finely machined parts inside which are easy to damage and which count. Have a ball!
Hi. Im going start paint cabinet and utility trailers. Does the Fuji Q4 Gold work for what I want? Im look the Q5 platinum its the top of the line of Fuji system but one person offer me one used but in like new conditions one Q4 Gold complete system for $465 included gun kit plus flex extencion plus remote. Want to know if for whats I want do the Q4 Gold work and if the $465 for this Fuji Q4 Gold its ok Thanks
Hello, I’ve got the Fuji Mini Mite 3 and have been very happy with it, using it to spray shellac, water-lacquer and paint. I’m not familiar with the Q4 Gold. Your best bet is to contact Fuji and tell them exactly what your needs are, and ask them for a recommendation. Hope this helps, George WoodWorkers Guild of America Video Membership
The minimite is like 80 db, if you're standing right beside it, maybe 85. The platinum is quiet, like 70 db at max, but most of the time you have it dialed back to half, so like 60 db.
I dont think i have ever seen any painter mess with the gun settings that much in the middle of spraying.. just asking for trouble with your application. Get your gun set up right then adjust your body/spray position and set the part up so you can maneuver around it easier.. also spraying edges first allow you to blend the flat areas easier, spraying the edges last you will get overspray on the flat surfaces.. Maybe just done to over exaggerate the adjustabilityof the equipment?? Idk ..
dang, i need to replace my hvlp gun, it only has one knob for adjustment, nice gun you got there, i started restoring furniture and antiques back in 1977, and if i made this video i would have done the test spray without a mask, in my 5 grand spray booth, and so, what, he takes off the mask and now your whole room is full of fumes? hmmmm, i don't know....
If you have a 50 gallon compressor or more, spend your money on a quality spray gun (HVLP or RP from SATA) and you’ll never look back. Infinitely superior results -without all that horrible noise.
Strve Sit, I both agree and disagree with what you say. Let me clarify. I actually have a much larger (belt-driven) air compressor in a far-away room and have to strain my ears, and then some, to hear it when I’m spraying; and, yes, that’s my biggest problem - save the fact that it runs on 3-phase power - namely, snatching it up and running off to the job site 😂!! That’s why I have an HVLP turbine - like any smart man - for those occasions. Nonetheless, truth be told, there’s nothing like a SATA B RP spray gun - and I mean nothing. Obviously, you realize I have a professional setup; I know not everyone can have what I have, but I was just being frank. Indeed, you can get a wonderful finish with a turbine, but the compressor-driven setup, like that from SATA, is unbeatable - both in terms of price💰and quality💎. Believe me, it’s the choice of professionals. And, yes, speed is important - not to mention addictive🍷. To make my point, just ask any automotive spray painter what gives him the best finish in the ideal situation. In woodworking, you can get away with a decent turbine; but it’s the demanding applications that tell the difference. The finest finish still requires the old-style high pressure physics because, no matter how you flip it, spray painting is really all about atomization. So, why have HVLP guns gained prominence? Is it the sales-pitch story you hear about saving material? Not really. Being economical is, doubtless, a good thing; but the truth of the matter lies in the fact that HVLP produces less overspray and, as a result, conforms to VOC regulations. That’s why SATA - along with other manufacturers - have come up with a compromise, an atomizing solution that, although still VOC-compliant, is fundamentally reminiscent of the old-style spray guns. It’s known as ‘reduced pressure’, or RP. And the good thing about this technology is that it runs on less volume than HVLP without the need for high pressure (+/- 29 PSI, depending on the application), which means you can actually use it with a smaller air supply. The downside, of course, is that you waste more material. So, although economy is a good thing, it’s really an afterthought when it comes to the professional spray-painting world, where quality and speed are the uppermost concerns.
Vadim , Did you read my reply? Look at my fourth sentence. The rest of my reply explains the difference between HVLP turbines and air-compressor spray guns.
The ‘Ask an Expert’ section is for members of our online community. I would be happy to send your question off to the experts. Please forward us your question to programdirector@program-director.net. Thanks! Great question!
@@Wwgoa I understand your frustration. But advertising expensive spray guns and/or compressors without telling the youtube audience, that they need a spray cabin if they are serious about the results (and at the pricetags of guns and compressors they better are) is like advertising the hottest new tennis racket, when there is no tennis court in a 100 mile radius.
This woodworking book is very comprehensive, “pepe amazing plan” (Google it)! It breaks everything down, using words, drawings, real images, and various diagrams. It`s incredibly informative and helps me feel like I could help my sibling while we make our furniture together.
Wow, this Brackett guy has to disagree with something that anyone has to say, or he thinks he can do it just a little bit better. Los 6, are compressor guns adjusted differently? Brackett, I am not intrested in your answer.
Pretty bad. HVLP is NOT exclusive to turbines. There are many HVLP guns that run on compressors. Always best to know what you're talking about BEFORE you try to instruct others.
Which is why, if you'd paid attention, he specifically talks about the difference between self-contained turbine systems vs. air compressor HVLP systems (0:30-0:50). Always best to watch what you critique BEFORE you try to instruct others.
BR Smith Um dumbass, BEFORE that he said "[HVLP guns] they work differently than guns that hook up to your air compressor." Hence the 100% accurate comment I left. Don't feel bad. The internet just isn't for everyone. Chump.
BR Smith "Significantly less overspray than a gun that connects to an air compressor" 2nd inaccurate quote that I referenced originally. He doesn't know what he speaking of and DOES NOT correct this later either. Sooo now that you look as foolish as he does anything else you'd like to try for idiot?
Wow. Guess I hit a nerve, since you had to go back and take what he said out of context just to make yourself feel superior. Ad hominem attacks (especially when accompanied by childish name calling) are always a sure way to highlight the inadequacies of your argument. Clearly, as everyone else seemed able to comprehend, his point was the difference between the two systems, self contained turbine system vs air compressor systems. Even if you buy a conversion HVLP gun, there is still the concern that the air coming out of a typical compressor is often loaded with moisture and other contaminants that have to be filtered out in order to avoid spoiling the finish. Exactly what he pointed out. Nothing he said was wrong. Your original post indicated that George Vondriska didn't have a clue. I'm simply refuting that argument for those that may be new to spraying and are just looking for information. But I'll try to console your obviously fragile ego. You are correct that there are "HVLP guns that run on compressors." They are "conversion" HVLP guns, different from the turbine system guns. So even though that isn't the point of the video, you are hereby declared wiser than all other professional woodworkers. You'll likely have more to say that no doubt seems very clever to yourself, but I'm done.
BR Smith once again you make up bullshit that didn't happen that's what we call lying. You're a liar. Hit a nerve? Why do I care if you're an idiot, can't follow the English language, or are so ignorant about the subject content you don't know what is or isn't being said accurately. You've made an ass of yourself continually here with all of the above. This is where you slink away wishing you'd just kept your arrogant and ignorant mouth shut. Good day chump.
This guys technique is absolutely horrific not to mention the information is 100% inaccurate . for instance the HVLP isn't for conventional air compressors as they produce contaminated air with water and or oil . Hmmmm let me think about this ....slight pause .... no thinking necessary as the HVLP spray gun has been mandated for ions in the automotive painting business and does quite well there so go back to your day job
Hello!thank you for your video! I see you have a different hose which looks more flexible… is this extension from Fuji as well? I appreciate your reply, thank you in advance!
Does the Fuji handle lacquers and varnishes, with fairly low flash points? I have a Wagner Paint-Ready machine and I was told it cannot be used with lacquers or varnishes.
I spray from a good sized compressor with i believe no water issues at all. First I have an auto dump valve that comes on for 15 seconds every time the compressor starts, which blows any collected water from the tank into the yard. The hvlp regulator is connected to a ball valve on the main hp air supply, opening that ball valve, i adjust the regulator for the hvlp gun to the desired pressure. I use a dryer on the hvlp line, which will also remove water from the air line. That guy dumps every time automatically when i shut that ball valve off. I spray just about everything.
Don't bother with the auto-dump valves from Harbour Freight, they just do not last, get a good one. I went this route to save some coin, and not have another piece of hardware to maintain. Has worked well for 2+ years so far.
Great Video...... always enjoy seeing how others get their projects done, always learning something from someone.....
I'm looking for a video to show my shop guys how to handle a gun. I was hoping you would move the whole gun along a path either vertically or horizontally to keep the axis of pattern perfectly perpendicular with the work for an even coat. But in the segment I watched you're doing exactly what I'm trying to teach them not to - just pivoting at the elbow or shoulder and spaying in a lazy arc.
I been wondering the same thing. I see a LOT of videos that show HVLP sprayers pivoting wrist/arm.. and I always read you want to keep it equadistant like 4" to 6" away perpendicular all the way through
That picture of a horse next to the door is amazing! What's the story?
That's Bootsie, a Pony of the Americas. We wrapped up a photo shoot in my shop, and my daughter was walking the horse around the yard. One thing lead to another, and Bootsie ended up in the shop with ear muffs, safety glasses, and a pencil behind her ear. We entertained creating some kind of "no horsing around in the shop" thing with it, but never got around to it. Bootsie lived to be an amazing 41 years old.
@@gandkdostuff great story, thanks for share
What was the finish you sprayed. Lacquer, polyurethane or shellac?
Hi John. It was lacquer.
Thanks
Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America
I have an Hvlp procomp. I am into my 2nd year using the machine. With frustration on changing paint or refilling the paint 1/2 gallon pot. Seems like I do fine on 1st filling then it’s not flowing afterwards. I’m using sherwin Williams urethane trim. I love the results but performance is too unpredictable.
this is a multi stage unit with extra controls on the gun . some units have fewer stages like a two stage earlex where one can only set the volume of liquid . the tip rotates to produce three different patterns but thats it . i mention this so people don't purchase a lesser quality unit thinking they will be getting your set up.
New to spraying. What symptoms show that air is causing bounce back or over spray?
robydean7, symptoms, as in how to know it is happening? If that is your question, then observe the finish as it hits while watching from the side (orient yourself as if you are a second person watching from the side a few inches away). Then spray while adjusting the master air-flow control. You should then be able to see how bounce-back varies with high or low total air flow.
With my gun, I lower to master air flow as much as I can while still getting good atomization and patter to reduce overspray. If you are in a situation where getting lots of finish on a large area quickly is the main goal, then crank it up.
How do you keep the finish off everything else in the shop?
Prmskeepr That’s the beauty of this low pressure revolution. In the old days only a tiny amount of the paint went on the target. Now, the overwhelming majority does, and what doesn’t, doesn’t come flying off with much force, so the particles hang airborne long enough to dry and become dust and not land as a wet film and paint something. You just need to cover things that are really close and arrange for some form of positive airflow in your shop like a window fan (blowing out of course, with the inbound air source being filtered).
I own one of these.Spraying any waterborne or latex always was a big problem with this unit. We always had to thin it way down (beyond any paint manufacturers specs) to get it to work. Unless we were missing something?
try to spray latex with a compressed HVLP, you will have to dilute, otherwise you will get big droplets, at the end if you want to spray automotive paint, primer or an enamel for an iron fence you need to dilute, unless you are spraying something thin like a stain
You should be able to spray waterborne lacquer, polyurethane and tinted lacquer without having to do any thinning whatsoever. As far as latex paint is concerned, then the answer is yes, you will have to thin it. In my experience, the clerks at most paint supply stores have very little experience spraying latex usng turbine HVLP systems and therefore are not a reliable source of information. And, the information on the paint tins from those places and the big-box stores in particular, is most likely misleading. Go to a paint supplier who sells to professionals, to get the advice you need regarding the amount of thinning needed for proper results. Get yourself a viscosity cup so that you can measure the "thickness" of the paint in order to ensure you're not under or over-thinning it. Then, get yourself some Floetrol to add to the thinned paint so that it will offset the thinning effect of the water and help with the drying of the finish. Again, a good paint supply house should be able to provide you proper advice. Hope this all helps.
Floetrel? that doesn't help dry it, extends drying time to allow leveling? can run on you if your not aware of that...@@ApexWoodworks
HVLP means high volume, LOW pressure. My HVLP with 4 stage turbine is running wide open at 12psi. I can dial it down if needed. Compressors need to start and stop to replenish air. This can cause spitting or loss of product in mid spray-on larger surfaces. Thus ruining the finish especially on higher-end jobs. The turbines provide continous clean air at correct low pressure. I wish this video compared the gravity vs. the cup feed. He showed the cup in describing controls but used the gravity feed on the piece he sprayed.
Very informative. The one thing that always seems to be missing is the cleaning and maintenance of a HVLP sprayer. What do you with extra finish in the pots? Do you need to clean between coats left to dry overnight? What needs to be done between uses? Should you have multiple guns? Any help would be appreciated. As you can see, I am intimidated by finishing.
If unthinned, I put residual finish back in the original container. If thinned, I have some spare storage containers. Cups are frequently made of aluminum, may or may not be lined, and can react with the finish if allowed to stay in the cup too long. 8-12 hours is probably OK, 8-12 days is NOT OK.
Clean the gun & pot (cup-under guns can use liners) with the solvent designed for the finish sprayed. I spray >90% of the time with either waterborne finishes or shellac. So water or denatured alcohol. And, until they fully cure, most polyurethanes are susceptible to ammonia. And so is shellac. So keep some household sudsy ammonia around. I run it 50:50 with water through the gun and it absolutely removes the residual finish. Also good with a toothbrush to clean the cup gasket. Rinse thoroughly with water. Then run the gun "dry" to dry out the passages. Clean the needle, nozzle and aircap with the compatible solvent. Dry and store appropriately.
Multiple guns are a good idea if you are moving back and forth between non-compatible finishes. Or you can invest in extra cups for the cup-under design. Gravity feed cups are usually a little more finicky to change. Or the 3M system which is very clever and fast cleanup.
When pricing out a system, remember to budget for accessories such as additional sizes of needle/nozzle/air cap, good respirator & OV cartridges, replacement parts like gaskets and air filters and material to knock together some kind of spray booth or spray area.
Pick up a copy of Jeff Jewitt's book on spray finishing. Some info is getting a bit long in the tooth but the basic principles remain the same.
Thank you, thank you, thank you. Just the kind of information I needed.
TheRwyoung Good on ya for taking the time to fully answer this fellows question. I remember how long it took to get to this point and how hard it was to overcome cleaning mistakes.
WoodRodent TheRwyoung gave you great advice to which I’ll add: put a little of the solvent for whatever paint you’re using into one of those extra cups he advised you to buy before you start shooting because something always happens, kids, dogs, tornados, and you may want to quickly Sanaa off the paint cup and cover it, put on the solvent cup and shoot it until only solvent comes out, and then leave it hooked up while you put out the fire to protect the finely machined parts inside which are easy to damage and which count. Have a ball!
What finish is that?
Hello. Latex Paint. Thanks Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America
what kind of respirator was that?
It’s a 3M 6900 full face respirator.
Hi. Im going start paint cabinet and utility trailers. Does the Fuji Q4 Gold work for what I want? Im look the Q5 platinum its the top of the line of Fuji system but one person offer me one used but in like new conditions one Q4 Gold complete system for $465 included gun kit plus flex extencion plus remote. Want to know if for whats I want do the Q4 Gold work and if the $465 for this Fuji Q4 Gold its ok
Thanks
Hello,
I’ve got the Fuji Mini Mite 3 and have been very happy with it, using it to spray shellac, water-lacquer and paint. I’m not familiar with the Q4 Gold. Your best bet is to contact Fuji and tell them exactly what your needs are, and ask them for a recommendation.
Hope this helps,
George
WoodWorkers Guild of America Video Membership
How loud is that turbine machine ...fo u need ear protection aswell .And it that platinum machine much quiter then the last model
The minimite is like 80 db, if you're standing right beside it, maybe 85. The platinum is quiet, like 70 db at max, but most of the time you have it dialed back to half, so like 60 db.
where can i get a respirator like that? I wear glasses, and like that face shield.
I dont think i have ever seen any painter mess with the gun settings that much in the middle of spraying.. just asking for trouble with your application. Get your gun set up right then adjust your body/spray position and set the part up so you can maneuver around it easier.. also spraying edges first allow you to blend the flat areas easier, spraying the edges last you will get overspray on the flat surfaces..
Maybe just done to over exaggerate the adjustabilityof the equipment?? Idk ..
I thought a turban was an Indian head scarf?
i sure hope you have a spray booth somewhere or you better make out your will...........
Never mind, I see the responses below.
dang, i need to replace my hvlp gun, it only has one knob for adjustment, nice gun you got there, i started restoring furniture and antiques back in 1977, and if i made this video i would have done the test spray without a mask, in my 5 grand spray booth, and so, what, he takes off the mask and now your whole room is full of fumes? hmmmm, i don't know....
Air compressors are just fine.
Unless space is an issue.
If you have a 50 gallon compressor or more, spend your money on a quality spray gun (HVLP or RP from SATA) and you’ll never look back. Infinitely superior results -without all that horrible noise.
Strve Sit, I both agree and disagree with what you say. Let me clarify. I actually have a much larger (belt-driven) air compressor in a far-away room and have to strain my ears, and then some, to hear it when I’m spraying; and, yes, that’s my biggest problem - save the fact that it runs on 3-phase power - namely, snatching it up and running off to the job site 😂!! That’s why I have an HVLP turbine - like any smart man - for those occasions. Nonetheless, truth be told, there’s nothing like a SATA B RP spray gun - and I mean nothing. Obviously, you realize I have a professional setup; I know not everyone can have what I have, but I was just being frank. Indeed, you can get a wonderful finish with a turbine, but the compressor-driven setup, like that from SATA, is unbeatable - both in terms of price💰and quality💎. Believe me, it’s the choice of professionals. And, yes, speed is important - not to mention addictive🍷. To make my point, just ask any automotive spray painter what gives him the best finish in the ideal situation. In woodworking, you can get away with a decent turbine; but it’s the demanding applications that tell the difference. The finest finish still requires the old-style high pressure physics because, no matter how you flip it, spray painting is really all about atomization. So, why have HVLP guns gained prominence? Is it the sales-pitch story you hear about saving material? Not really. Being economical is, doubtless, a good thing; but the truth of the matter lies in the fact that HVLP produces less overspray and, as a result, conforms to VOC regulations. That’s why SATA - along with other manufacturers - have come up with a compromise, an atomizing solution that, although still VOC-compliant, is fundamentally reminiscent of the old-style spray guns. It’s known as ‘reduced pressure’, or RP. And the good thing about this technology is that it runs on less volume than HVLP without the need for high pressure (+/- 29 PSI, depending on the application), which means you can actually use it with a smaller air supply. The downside, of course, is that you waste more material. So, although economy is a good thing, it’s really an afterthought when it comes to the professional spray-painting world, where quality and speed are the uppermost concerns.
Vadim , Did you read my reply? Look at my fourth sentence. The rest of my reply explains the difference between HVLP turbines and air-compressor spray guns.
Your not really spraying whole projects in this workshop, aren’t you?
The ‘Ask an Expert’ section is for members of our online community. I would be happy to send your question off to the experts. Please forward us your question to programdirector@program-director.net. Thanks! Great question!
@@Wwgoa I understand your frustration. But advertising expensive spray guns and/or compressors without telling the youtube audience, that they need a spray cabin if they are serious about the results (and at the pricetags of guns and compressors they better are) is like advertising the hottest new tennis racket, when there is no tennis court in a 100 mile radius.
This woodworking book is very comprehensive, “pepe amazing plan” (Google it)! It breaks everything down, using words, drawings, real images, and various diagrams. It`s incredibly informative and helps me feel like I could help my sibling while we make our furniture together.
spammer
Dude !!!! be realistic, nobody has a turban we all have air compressors and you know it !!!!!!!!!!!
Ios 6 Thousands of us have turbines. I have 3 turbines and 4 compressors.
Wow, this Brackett guy has to disagree with something that anyone has to say, or he thinks he can do it just a little bit better. Los 6, are compressor guns adjusted differently? Brackett, I am not intrested in your answer.
Ios 6 wrong
Your correct as I don't wear a Turban. I prefer baseball style caps.
Pretty bad. HVLP is NOT exclusive to turbines. There are many HVLP guns that run on compressors. Always best to know what you're talking about BEFORE you try to instruct others.
Which is why, if you'd paid attention, he specifically talks about the difference between self-contained turbine systems vs. air compressor HVLP systems (0:30-0:50). Always best to watch what you critique BEFORE you try to instruct others.
BR Smith Um dumbass, BEFORE that he said "[HVLP guns] they work differently than guns that hook up to your air compressor." Hence the 100% accurate comment I left. Don't feel bad. The internet just isn't for everyone. Chump.
BR Smith "Significantly less overspray than a gun that connects to an air compressor" 2nd inaccurate quote that I referenced originally. He doesn't know what he speaking of and DOES NOT correct this later either. Sooo now that you look as foolish as he does anything else you'd like to try for idiot?
Wow. Guess I hit a nerve, since you had to go back and take what he said out of context just to make yourself feel superior. Ad hominem attacks (especially when accompanied by childish name calling) are always a sure way to highlight the inadequacies of your argument. Clearly, as everyone else seemed able to comprehend, his point was the difference between the two systems, self contained turbine system vs air compressor systems. Even if you buy a conversion HVLP gun, there is still the concern that the air coming out of a typical compressor is often loaded with moisture and other contaminants that have to be filtered out in order to avoid spoiling the finish. Exactly what he pointed out. Nothing he said was wrong. Your original post indicated that George Vondriska didn't have a clue. I'm simply refuting that argument for those that may be new to spraying and are just looking for information.
But I'll try to console your obviously fragile ego. You are correct that there are "HVLP guns that run on compressors." They are "conversion" HVLP guns, different from the turbine system guns. So even though that isn't the point of the video, you are hereby declared wiser than all other professional woodworkers. You'll likely have more to say that no doubt seems very clever to yourself, but I'm done.
BR Smith once again you make up bullshit that didn't happen that's what we call lying. You're a liar. Hit a nerve? Why do I care if you're an idiot, can't follow the English language, or are so ignorant about the subject content you don't know what is or isn't being said accurately. You've made an ass of yourself continually here with all of the above. This is where you slink away wishing you'd just kept your arrogant and ignorant mouth shut. Good day chump.
This guys technique is absolutely horrific not to mention the information is 100% inaccurate . for instance the HVLP isn't for conventional air compressors as they produce contaminated air with water and or oil . Hmmmm let me think about this ....slight pause .... no thinking necessary as the HVLP spray gun has been mandated for ions in the automotive painting business and does quite well there so go back to your day job