STEEL Wheel Spacers STRONGEST you can BUY (Motorsport Tech STAHL/ BORA) | AnthonyJ350
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- Опубліковано 3 жов 2024
- We install a set of STAHL Steel wheel spacers/ adapters on the back of the Interceptor. These are an alternative to aluminum BORA wheel spacers (which are incredibly strong). We opted for these because we think the hub centric ring will be more durable during servicing and we like the idea of having a super strong wheel spacer on our daily.
Watch and see the things you have to consider when installing wheel adapters.
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STEEL Wheel Spacers STRONGEST you can BUY (Motorsport Tech STAHL/ BORA) | AnthonyJ350
• STEEL Wheel Spacers ST...
ANTHONYJ350
/ anthonyj350
GREAT VIDEO!!! Our Stahl Steel brand is not to be messed with!!!! 💪
Thanks for watching!!!
First off, I like the effort. 'm no stranger to spacers. I would also add you may as well service the brakes while the wheels are off. And I would maybe not be so generous with the anti seize, only because I pay for it and the excess makes a mess. And I would not use the Red threadlocker, I would use Blue if you insist on using threadlocker. The Red will end up damaging the threads with repeated use, and you are supposed to heat it up to over 500deg F to service Red threadlocker. That leads to a chance of hurting the temper on the steel, another concern. There is a reason why heat is never supposed to be used to service any suspension components. I would just stay away from the Red.
People will have different opinions on the thread lock part. If you consider novices watching this who might not recheck for tightness I prefer them use this. If I used blue someone else will comment I should have used red. It's hard to win with the internet.
@@AnthonyJ350 Yea, even so, Lenny Jr (MotorsportTech), in answering one of the questions on Amazon regarding LocTite .... states "No LocTite required". But still... I'm thinking about getting these steel spacers for my 1995 Dodge Roadtrek (it's a class B RV) and I'll probably end up using blue threadlock. Great video by the way. Thnx...
Love the Stahl spacers. 99% I'll be buying the same ones for my front wheels.
One thing: the hub centering ring does not provide significant support for the wheel to hub connection. The hub centering ring provides precise alignment during the mounting process. The strength comes from the clamped friction between the wheel and the wheel mounting surface. Torquing the lug nuts properly maximizes the clamp strength and the resulting friction.
If you want to stop rust between the wheel and the wheel mounting surface, I wouldn't suggest a layer of long-lasting lubricant (like anti-seize). Maybe run a bead of high temp RTV at the hub and edge of the adapter? Caliper paint is designed for rust resistance and can handle the temps that brake parts can reach, so might be an option.
When I was referring to strength of the hub, I meant in terms of abuse of wheels hitting it during a careless installation. I'm always afraid of chipping aluminum hubs on wheel adapters.
@@AnthonyJ350 I was pointing out that you're putting a lubricant (anti-seize) on a surface that needs to be high friction for the wheel->rotor->hub system to have the strongest connection. Completely agree about risk of damage to aluminum vs. steel.
When re torquing are you not breaking the seal of the thread locker from where it was tight at before? Meaning why wouldn’t you have to add more thread locker? Meaning if the thread locker dries... then it will hold there. But then let’s say a month or two goes by and you re torque now you just broke that seal. I hope someone understands. Thanks
You are to an extent, but you'll still have the residue so it's still less likely to back off over time vs a clean thread.
It will be ok.. I used to use blue 242 n dirt bike fasteners repeatedly and after 3 or 4 applications no more was needed...the fasteners nyloks like nyloks.
How about the handling? Same or getting bad? When using steel adapter
Same if it's smooth ( if anything felt more planted). However you need a shock that can keep up with the extra weight that it throws around over bumps.
Great video, im surprised it doesn't have more views. Very detailed and good information. And nice truck.
I'm thinking of doing this to my 2006 GMC Sierra 1500 2WD... I'm going to be installing a 3in spindle lift to raise my front, i have a pretty nasty front rake. Guessing I will have to get these 1.5in steel spacers too. Also have the same stock wheels. What brand did you buy for the spindle lift? And do you know if your stock wheels had clearance issues with the new spindle? I heard that it can rub near the ball bearing with stock wheels.
Overall, im trying to give my truck an updated look while trying to keep the ride quality and wear to an absolute minimal. I want to keep my truck as long as possible.
One other question, if you did get aftermarket wheels how would you go about it? Would you still use the spacers? Seems it would be a hassle having two different offsets for the front and rear because of the kickout in the front. You also wouldn't be able to rotate them properly unless taking off the tires from all the wheels every time. Thanks bud.
Thank you for watching! You'll want the steel spacers if you truly need something more durable, keep in mind they do weight a lot so they will affect the suspension. Motorsport Tech also makes a super strong aluminium version.
I run Fabtech's lift spindle ua-cam.com/video/kCK1Dyyodi4/v-deo.html and I run two types of stock wheels on my truck with no clearance issues. Seems you want to run a 17" wheel to clear.
After the front lift you might also consider front jounce bumpers ua-cam.com/video/_Q0jsmqsg2g/v-deo.html
I also highly recommend you run Bilstein 5100 shocks to complete the ride.
As far as running aftermarket wheels, I was going to. But as you mentioned you would end up running two different offsets and it created a lot of practical issues how I would maintain my truck. That's why I ended up running 2014 17" Silverado wheels with wheel spacers on the back.
This is my current setup ua-cam.com/video/3vEbxBAj8eQ/v-deo.html
are studs hardened? by grinding them to glowing red hot doesnt that take the hardness away and pretty much leave you with hardware store bolts holding your wheels on? asking for a friend.
You can cut it with a hacksaw if you're worried about it
My G came with h&r spacers from the previous owner didn’t even notice for like two years haha
I hope you check them regularly now ;)
AnthonyJ350 just them out for the two piece rotor install🙌🏻 had to throw some anti seize too
I have a new Jeep wrangler with 35 inch tires on a 2.5 inch lift. I have Fuel tires with what must be a fairly large negative offset as my tires stick out already 2 1/2 inches outside of the stock fenders. I don't off road but love to tear up the snow when I get a chance. I love that untucked stance and would like to run some 1.75 inch spacers....I know the pros and the cons fairly well. Am I just asking for trouble or should I be ok? Its driven gently that's for sure. Thanks hard to decide....then aluminum or steel too? emmmm?
You're already sticking out past the stock fenders. Why do you want to push the wheels out more?
Re torque with red lock tight?
You can just to double check after the first 50Km. I always retorque every 6 months just to check or before any long drives.
some say using spacers will increase stress on the wheel bearing?
It can. Deviating anything from what was installed from factory will alter things. If you put an aftermarket wheel with more of a negative offset it would have the same effect. So it depends on the vehicle and how you set it up.
It will probably affect the front bearings more on an independent suspension vs on the rear on a solid axle.
BLUE LOCK TIGHT I can see but RED are you freekin nuts?
I use blue as well. Red you apply a little heat to reactivate it and will break loose.
Should be ZERO locktite
repeat. at least u could add reupload in title
To be fair, most reruns on TV don't put "rerun" in the title.
So those are made of steel not aluminum.
Correct
I have 2012 silverado 1500 that i want to install steel spacers on the back. Went to the motor sports tech web they only make stahl steel for 1999-2006 silverados 1500. But i think the hub shoul be the same on the 2012s ? Or what you think
@@jorgeluissalazar669 Should be the same because I have a set of 2014 Silverado wheels I run on my truck.