When I unknowingly purchased my terminal phal, the nursery gave it to me free and said to enjoy the blooms before it died. Well! I enjoyed the blooms for 1.5 years! Yes, you heard me right! She kept branching and blooming. Goodness! I felt so sorry for all the energy she put into a hopeful pollination that I cut the spike down to the base, put the spike in a vase and said rest in peace little one. Not! She put out two children, and each child spiked and bloomed gloriously. Momma is still hanging on with one leaf left of her. I wonder if I pollinate both keikis next time around if Momma will give up the ghost. Seeing this valiant effort, I can understand how orchids have survived a millennia! Thanks for your videos Roger. I looked forward to seeing your babies and your sense of humor tickles! Happy growing.
Well 'my bad' for not noticing it but 'me being me' if there are any more like that, I will tell the BOS that I'm not selling them. I'm hoping I've got the only one in the batch? I will make this little one famous!
While visiting Burle Marx, who grew many of these; yes all you have said is exactly right. He grew these in very low light on their sides attached to bark and the like. Brazil phals are the large white ones. Have not been successful myself in growing these but very much needed your review and thank you. Long live the phals and beautiful memories of Roberto. Thank you!🌬🌸
Thanks Roger for giving the Phal its due place. I love easy to keep, and as a new grower the Phal has given me a lot of confidence, so much so, that I dared to puchase a Vanda Pachara a few months ago, and happy to say, successfully re-bloomed it with 11 cm. flowers, nine of them, and an additional spike starting toboot. So as a beginner, the Phal is a perfect start!
I love love love my Phalenopsis! Many folks who grow orchids focus on other species- but I still love my Phalenopsis as well as my Cattleya- starting to discover dendrobium- thanks to your passion for them
Roger's Orchids I am having to relearn how to care for them as I have recently moved from the Southern (Louisiana) part of the US to Colorado where there is a big difference in climate. I used to put them outside for part of the year in my trees- not here as it is too dry -
I have my eye on a beautiful peloric phalaenopsis orchid. I'll let you know if I get it. One of the orchid growers had 2 that I liked at our county fair a couple of weeks ago and told me that he'd have more of them at our summer orchid show. My mini phal has a new leaf. It's such a good feeling when you finally can grow a phal ( it doesn't matter if it's from a florist or grocery store) and not kill it. Victory!
It's so nice of you to volunteer to get there so early in the morning to set things ready for the orchid show judging. They seem to have a very early schedule. I love that yellow phal you have there. I have two phals that have almost identical blooms, but bigger. They are quite huge plants. I got them for free from a shop that was going to throw them away. It's funny to have 2 of the same, specially when they take so much space, but if I hadn't taken both, one would have gone to the trash, and it was soo beautiful, I had to save it. :) I like this kind of very light yellow. I'm not into white phals, but creamy light yellow is very pleasant to me. :)
Thanks and a 'shaky video' of our display to follow shortly - first time with the new camera. Basically it's heavier as it's a more 'professional model' and will take a while to 'get good' - and, in my defense, it was 07:00 and I'd only had ONE COFFEE.
Bravo for the Phalaenopsis! They're everything you say they are and I love them, hate when they're referred to as peasants but I'm getting over it! Thanks for such an informative video once again!
Great video Roger. That Phal with the spikes coming from the axle is called a terminal spike, the plant can die from this. as it can't produce a new leaf. Or it will produce a kiki. I have just made the same mistake, buying a phal with a terminal spike. I'm hoping it's going to grow a kiki or it will be a waste of money. And thank you for the video's on the rain mix. I to was having problems with burnt roots. After watching your video I bought a PH meter, and now things are getting better.
It amazes me how some/ most people put the beauty of an orchid in the flower she/he produces. What about the magnificent green foliage they produce or those roots, pseudo bulbs? What other plant can produce such wonders... Phals are lovely orchids and look at the varieties...even their leaves are different. So stop complaining about “them”being “commonplace”... perhaps it’s the buyer that cannot see the Phalenopsis place on the orchid throne.😉🙂
I disagree with the whole "peasant orchid" stuff. They are gorgeous and brilliant. Yes, the mass produced complex hybrids fail to impress me anymore, and sellers keep you in the dark regarding their care, because they want profit, so most of their clients are people who just want a pretty flower and then throw it and buy another one... except for people like us, of course. Also the lack of a scent is a killer. It's a pity, but that's the fact. BUT I am absolutely in love with species, crosses or not so complex hybrids which have bright leaves, gorgeous flowers and beautiful scents.
I know there is alot of helpful info out there concerning phals. How u say something vs how someone else said the same, might be the key for whomever to learn. Plus, now u can just refer to this vid instead of answering the same repeatedly.! xoxo from CO
Know just what you mean, in the summer I long for cooler weather and now it's winter I long for the warmth. My old bones really hate the cold these days. I need eternal Autumn weather it would seem with some Spring added in..
Talking to a Scottish guy about 'day lengths and seasons and stuff' and he said that in Scotland they only get two seasons - June and Winter! When asked about summer he said - best day of the year! I personally don't mind the heat or the cold - but it generates more work looking after the babies! My sleep comes easier when it's cool.
Hi Roger, I haven’t seen the discussion you are referring to and I don’t have everything in mind that has been said in the videos on the topic (my head is spinning, though). I’ve had quite some root burn on my orchids with different brands of fertilizers, but the root burn only affects the surface roots and not the roots inside a pot that stay moist longer and also very rarely any exposed root tips, because I try not to let fertilized water touch them. I think that’s similar to what you experienced with your Neofinetia (that has many exposed roots) and potted plants (less effect, because the roots are buried). I’ve prepared a video showing my long-term root burn. It’s quite the opposite of root porn, I’d say. :)
Apparently (according to the manufacturer, I am not watering my orchids enough. Not quite sure how that burns roots and I also thought most orchids were supposed to dry between waterings. Very bored with the whole thing now. I've changed fertiliser and new roots are ok. Normal service has been resumed. I've only ever seen books etc saying that root burn is caused by fertiliser that is mixed too strong and I haven't been doing that. But now an 'expert' is telling me root burn can be caused by my roots drying out and the plants are not getting enough water. They grow, they bloom and I thought most orchids are supposed to dry out between waterings?
The sweeping statement that you simply don't water your orchids enough is apparently not true. You know what you're doing and some of the orchids need to dry out or you would have root rot in no time instead of root burn. But maybe he meant something similar like I stated in my video. The roots are only able to absorb fertilizer as long as they are moist and the fertilizer is dissolved. But if the roots dry faster than they are able to absorb whatever amount of fertilizer is on them, the salt deposit that remains on the outside of the root causes root burn. In my understanding that's how it goes and that can happen with every fertilizer. That way, I think even very little amounts of fertilizer can cause root burn on exposed roots, such little amounts that they would never cause harm to the same roots if these were buried in a pot, because they would stay moist longer and were therefore able to absorb the whole amount of minerals before they dry.
You are right. So what do people do with things like vandas that are bare-root and growing fine - do they water 3 times a day? I just don't get it. Perhaps there is just too much 'science' going on trying to improve our fertilisers without testing these conditions. With the fertiliser I'm now using, the new roots are fine and I haven't changed the way I water or the frequency. So for now, I'm sticking with what seems to be ok. I just hope everyone with some root burns finds a way to stop the problem and still manage to feed their orchids - it's just 'worries' we don't need.
I really don't know. My Vandas are doing very well, although the older roots are greyish and there is some root burn. Vanda roots are pretty hardy. Maybe that is because Vandas are quick with absorbing. Maybe people who have plain white roots on bare-root Vandas use less fertilizer than I do, but fertilize more often to compensate that or Vandas don't need as much fertilizer as I thought or they flush more often or if they use the same dosage that causes root burn on my Vanda roots, maybe a very high humidity is able to keep the fertilizer in a dissolved state or higher temperatures facilitate the absorbtion. It's difficult to compare two different setups. Most of the fertilizer must be absorbed or the deposits cause root burn, don't they? I really don't know, but that's the only explanation that I can think of. For me it would be a very ambitious goal to stop root burn on my windowsill. I want to boost flowers and growth and that is more than the surface roots can take. Or rather: They can take it, but they aren't white at the same time. But I'll try to do my best to be mindful of it in the future and try to avoid it as best as I can.
+Roger Frampton I water Vanda once per day in 70 degree house. Spraying several times a day is not enough - I dunk or shower them every morning. Also have a bit of moss on their roots.
I've never really had a problem with root-rot apart from some orchids where it was already there when I bought the orchid. But I know some others get it quite a bit.
It is pretty cool in my Invironment so my Orchids do not dry up so fast. It is just a matter of observing and anyone will sooner or later discover when to water the Orchids.
thank u, Roger!!! Very complete video about Phals!!!!! You have great material for a book, you need only spell your videos:) I can illustrate that book, it must be very interesting... with humor....,!!!! Yeah yeah yeah:)
Maybe - one day. I know several people who have written books but only once because the 'process' of trying to get it produced by someone, and getting a publisher are very difficult. In one case, it took two months to write and illustrate and three years before the book was available for sale and there was quite a lot of 'high-risk' expenses as there is no guarantee of any returns. With most of the information we could ever want available on the internet for free - there may not even be a place for 'another book'.
I know this, I am illustrated some... the process it´s very funny, and we do that ´ for humanity´ and not for to be rich-D. Oh, sorry, I only impressed for your "talking about the orchid"...You have very good stile of language.
Phals have brightened every day since I've been growing them! Even when I roam from home, I find them...or do they find me? :) Great informative video, Roger. Thanks for sharing your expertise!
I tend to water when the medium is dry (the sphag. moss becomes a bit hard), as my place is so humid and I am afraid that my phals will get crown rot. The plants look ok, but never grow vigorous like yours. After watching this vid, I guess I have to change my method.
surely the Phal, should be hailed as a success story? what other Orchid will adapt to such often unfavourable conditions! I like them, they are reliable just like a transit van! but aesthetically pleasing.
All hail the phalaenopsis ( and, for me , yes the transit van too. Played in a band for many years - without our trusty transit, many gigs would probably have been missed. And yes, not exactly a 'looker' but in those days, it you didn't turn up in a transit, you were not a 'proper' band.)
Many aerial roots on phals indicate bad roots in media. Excellent advice especially about ice - where in the tropics or South America does one get ice?
A lot of good information on phalaenopsis. May I ask that you do a basic beginners how to for phalaenopsis for people that have no clue. They have tried to grow them but killed them. I ask because I ran across some one today that had little to no clue.
@@victoriabrownfrank4328 Filmed - will be loaded later today (not that I'm the best person to do this as I only have a few and they don't do too well in my growroom as it gets too cold in Winter).
@@RogersOrchidsGardenandBonsai not so you have basic knowledge own orchids that will benefit somebody that has no clue and you have the ability to explain it where it actually makes sense.
I've heard that - never noticed it - just greedy for the only one with 4 spikes. If I was the 'unscrupulous type' I could swap it for one of the others tomorrow but that's not 'me'. Hope for keikis/side growths then.
Hello, this answered most questions for me, but the one on the right of the one you already watered is my question. You see how the bottom is still damp/wet would you water it that day or wait till it dries more? Thanks again I adore your videos.
With such an extensive root system, that one should have been watered the day before but was left as an example of what a drier one looks like. Sometimes when the bottom of the pot is still wet, I still water - it depends where the roots are in the pot? If most are down the bottom, then I would wait but if there aren't any roots at the bottom (probably why it's still wet in the first place) then I would water the actual area of the pots where most of the roots are. When it's cooler, I wait longer before watering but it just depends on how good the root system is. In the Winter, I sometimes wait 3 weeks between watering but that would normally be for a Phal with a poor root system that just isn't using the water very fast. AND, all of this is totally dependent on what media they are growing in - all of mine are in bark and most are in the largest bark size - plenty of air around the roots.
Roger Frampton thank you. That makes sense if the roots are not at the bottom. I just worry about them dying or stressing. Ugh kids grown but now orchids! Well at least they don't talk back lol
Okay I see in this video the yellow and sweet memory were for sale at the N F show probably! 👍😊 Interesting watching some of these early unwatched vids! As your grow rooms is cooler now, do you still grow your phals but indoors ?
I was looking back at some of your older videos and came across this one. What ever happened to this yellow one with the terminal spike? I purchased one recently that turns out to have a terminal spike as well. Did yours produce keikis?
hello Roger, are you going to be at the show on Thursday? I am working on a stand for my company that day and would like to meet if possible. where is your stall located?
Yes, I'm doing Tues (today) and Thurs. I think we're in the 'floral marquee' but after today, I'll know for sure and post an update. I may go 'walkabout' but someone on the stand will know where I am.
My poor babies are freezing at night lately. Not much I can do about it as I don't want to run heaters overnight, my area is too big. Having said that, two of them are putting out basal keikis. Took them to a meeting last week and told how I lucky I am. Yeah? Lol.
Keikis = 'free plants' in my book. Here on the south coast, the nights are staying above 17-18C - how I wish for some cooler nights - not for my babies, FOR ME!
So Ive grown Phals outside all year round with temperatures down to 5 C and just spent the weekend on safari where at the lodge in the mountains they had some phals in pots on the varandas just starting to spike and we had temperatures around 0 C some mornings, I wonder if its a case of if they are well fed etc they are able to take those low temperatures?
Roger's Orchids yes, I was just surprised because all my life, I have heard and read that Phals need warmth and that they might die if temperatures dip below 10 C and even in South Africa they are not recommended as outside plants in the winter rain fall Cape Town area. I have them dotted throughout my house and garden where ever I have space. I wonder if perhaps the modern hybrids can handle lower temperatures?
Hi Roger, hope you enjoyed the show and it was successful for you. Okay I have been searching for a specific one the Phalaenopsis Legarto. I know it exists and so far in the world very few nurseries/growers have heard of it. I have managed to locate a phal nursery that sells it, only problem is it's on a Russian website and I don't speak or understand Russian. Do you know of anyone who speaks English who knows of it or would sell me one? Thanks Roger, best wishes Chris
If you use the 'google translate' function, you can highlight some text then copy/paste into the translate page and you get a good idea of what's being said.
That's an 'old one'! My fertiliser I'm using now came from the US (First Ray's) and is a powder/granule type so I mix it up into a strong 'stock solution' which needs to be kept cool and dark and then I add that to my RO water and use a TDS meter to get the strength I want to use. I also use CalMAG on occasions which is a liquid - I always use this separately and I don't mix fertilisers. As far as Phalaenopsis hybrids are concerned, yes - a wet/dry cycle works well for them (although some of the species don't like to dry out. The other thing with these is they will grow much better if kept at quite high temps 20C at night and 27-28C day time with humidity around 60-70% but having said that, they are very 'tolerant' and will do ok grown in the home too.
What part of the world are you from and what media do they grow in? In most cases, a well-watered phal would last a week ok. Precautions could include : water them well and move them to a cooler room with plenty of shade (not dark) away from any bright light. But remember that phals should not get cold - try and stay above 18C / 65F day and night.
Thanks Roger - as usual, lots of good info. Just an FYI...the chlorine evaporating overnight trick really doesn’t work all that well.. Even in the old days..25 + yrs ago..it needed at least 24 hours - was what the fish clubs all said. And fish react quick to bad water. But all that is a mute point now as most, I.e., municipal water in the US anyway use chloramines (chlorine and ammonia). The reason for the change - to stabilize the disinfection process to last more time and due to different types and aging water pipes and systems and to last through periods of storage. My own utility says it would take several weeks to a month or more to decrease but not eliminate the chlorinamine levels. My TDS was just high enough that roots didn’t do well plus it makes no sense to use any kinda of microbial beneficial activity products if you use tap water...because it will kill the microbes. Same if you use any fungicides, or products like Physan20 etc. - they all kill good and bad microbes the same as hydrogen peroxide. Rainwater made such a difference. Collecting rainwater really isn’t difficult. You can set dishtubs under the downspout or my favorite on my deck...my older umbrella has a tilt position so I tilt it as far as it goes to the side and set a 5 gallon bucket under the lowest point. The water runs down and drips/runs into it during rainstorms - I run out and move the full bucket and put an empty one. It fills quick. You can even set up a small tarp to do the same like collecting water when camping. When it stops raining or sometimes during, I pour the buckets into a dark grey 32 gallon Rubbermaid Brute trashcan which stays in the shade (of the umbrella) and after an entire summer never got stinky or smelly or even green - just a little bit algae on the sides but the water stayed clear. I tie on an old sheet to filter any bits of leaves etc and rubberband the extra fabric when filling or during rain storms and when dumping the buckets in and I keep the lid on all the rest of the time. Even in 95F it stayed relatively cool and TDS was 5-7. ppm. I think what ever you have to do- get rainwater. If you live in an apt that has no downspouts, umbrellas - see if you can use a friend’s yard to collect it. RO wastes too much water, and cheap systems are almost worthless and are a false sense of security. If you have RO, make sure you get it tested in the beginning and every couple of years. Distilled water is expensive. Rainwater is free. Have somewater like JR Peters do an analysis on your water - they charge $40. See their website also will check tissue from plants for nutritional. They do all kinds of tests - water, plant, media, fertilizer tests.
The best water to use is used aquarium water. The nitrates fish produce feed the orchid. The orchid blooms then bees find it and make honey. Orchid Honey.
When I unknowingly purchased my terminal phal, the nursery gave it to me free and said to enjoy the blooms before it died. Well! I enjoyed the blooms for 1.5 years! Yes, you heard me right! She kept branching and blooming. Goodness! I felt so sorry for all the energy she put into a hopeful pollination that I cut the spike down to the base, put the spike in a vase and said rest in peace little one. Not! She put out two children, and each child spiked and bloomed gloriously. Momma is still hanging on with one leaf left of her. I wonder if I pollinate both keikis next time around if Momma will give up the ghost. Seeing this valiant effort, I can understand how orchids have survived a millennia! Thanks for your videos Roger. I looked forward to seeing your babies and your sense of humor tickles! Happy growing.
Well 'my bad' for not noticing it but 'me being me' if there are any more like that, I will tell the BOS that I'm not selling them. I'm hoping I've got the only one in the batch? I will make this little one famous!
Monique Williams I have had mine for five years love them
I know it's an old video ❤️! I enjoyed it! Your accolades on Phals was spot on. They are my favorite orchids!
While visiting Burle Marx, who grew many of these; yes all you have said is exactly right. He grew these in very low light on their sides attached to bark and the like. Brazil phals are the large white ones. Have not been successful myself in growing these but very much needed your review and thank you. Long live the phals and beautiful memories of Roberto. Thank you!🌬🌸
Quite an enjoyable video, Roger. I often amuse myself in thinking of what Hyacinth Bucket’s response would be to Phalaenopsis. “Oh, how common!” 😂
Thanks Roger, Phals have been and will always be my number one orchid. I just adore them.
Yep - underrated.
Right on Roger!
Thanks Roger for giving the Phal its due place. I love easy to keep, and as a new grower the Phal has given me a lot of confidence, so much so, that I dared to puchase a Vanda Pachara a few months ago, and happy to say, successfully re-bloomed it with 11 cm. flowers, nine of them, and an additional spike starting toboot. So as a beginner, the Phal is a perfect start!
Most people started with a phal.
Some of my Phals have leaves in excess of 25 inch spread. A plant worthy of comment even when not in bloom.
I own a couple of Phalaenopsis orchids purchased from the grocery store, and everything you've said about them are very true where mine are concerned.
Love your sensible talks! Thank you! 😊
You're welcome.
I love love love my Phalenopsis! Many folks who grow orchids focus on other species- but I still love my Phalenopsis as well as my Cattleya- starting to discover dendrobium- thanks to your passion for them
I like Phals too but they don't grow that well in my growroom as it's too cold in the Winter.
Roger's Orchids I am having to relearn how to care for them as I have recently moved from the Southern (Louisiana) part of the US to Colorado where there is a big difference in climate. I used to put them outside for part of the year in my trees- not here as it is too dry -
I have my eye on a beautiful peloric phalaenopsis orchid. I'll let you know if I get it. One of the orchid growers had 2 that I liked at our county fair a couple of weeks ago and told me that he'd have more of them at our summer orchid show. My mini phal has a new leaf. It's such a good feeling when you finally can grow a phal ( it doesn't matter if it's from a florist or grocery store) and not kill it. Victory!
Roll out the red carpet for a happy orchid grower - great.
It's so nice of you to volunteer to get there so early in the morning to set things ready for the orchid show judging. They seem to have a very early schedule. I love that yellow phal you have there. I have two phals that have almost identical blooms, but bigger. They are quite huge plants. I got them for free from a shop that was going to throw them away. It's funny to have 2 of the same, specially when they take so much space, but if I hadn't taken both, one would have gone to the trash, and it was soo beautiful, I had to save it. :) I like this kind of very light yellow. I'm not into white phals, but creamy light yellow is very pleasant to me. :)
Thanks and a 'shaky video' of our display to follow shortly - first time with the new camera. Basically it's heavier as it's a more 'professional model' and will take a while to 'get good' - and, in my defense, it was 07:00 and I'd only had ONE COFFEE.
Roger Frampton No problem. 😊 It takes time to get used to it.
Bravo for the Phalaenopsis! They're everything you say they are and I love them, hate when they're referred to as peasants but I'm getting over it! Thanks for such an informative video once again!
Everyone has their own tastes - not my favourite but deserves a place.
Thank you Roger.... safe travel
Great video Roger. That Phal with the spikes coming from the axle is called a terminal spike, the plant can die from this. as it can't produce a new leaf. Or it will produce a kiki. I have just made the same mistake, buying a phal with a terminal spike. I'm hoping it's going to grow a kiki or it will be a waste of money. And thank you for the video's on the rain mix. I to was having problems with burnt roots. After watching your video I bought a PH meter, and now things are getting better.
I got a beautiful Phal with terminal spike sometime ago and I have 2 kakis from it. It grew so fast it's worth waiting.
Thank you.
It amazes me how some/ most people put the beauty of an orchid in the flower she/he produces. What about the magnificent green foliage they produce or those roots, pseudo bulbs? What other plant can produce such wonders... Phals are lovely orchids and look at the varieties...even their leaves are different. So stop complaining about “them”being “commonplace”... perhaps it’s the buyer that cannot see the Phalenopsis place on the orchid throne.😉🙂
I disagree with the whole "peasant orchid" stuff. They are gorgeous and brilliant. Yes, the mass produced complex hybrids fail to impress me anymore, and sellers keep you in the dark regarding their care, because they want profit, so most of their clients are people who just want a pretty flower and then throw it and buy another one... except for people like us, of course. Also the lack of a scent is a killer. It's a pity, but that's the fact.
BUT I am absolutely in love with species, crosses or not so complex hybrids which have bright leaves, gorgeous flowers and beautiful scents.
Thank you for doing phals justice 😊
You're welcome.
I know there is alot of helpful info out there concerning phals. How u say something vs how someone else said the same, might be the key for whomever to learn. Plus, now u can just refer to this vid instead of answering the same repeatedly.! xoxo from CO
Just wish I'd remembered to talk about 'media' but no script and 'one take' - I think that's the only thing I forgot.
Know just what you mean, in the summer I long for cooler weather and now it's winter I long for the warmth. My old bones really hate the cold these days. I need eternal Autumn weather it would seem with some Spring added in..
Talking to a Scottish guy about 'day lengths and seasons and stuff' and he said that in Scotland they only get two seasons - June and Winter! When asked about summer he said - best day of the year! I personally don't mind the heat or the cold - but it generates more work looking after the babies! My sleep comes easier when it's cool.
Those are they only ones ,that i can get here,and i love them
I love my philonopses
Hi Roger, I haven’t seen the discussion you are referring to and I don’t have everything in mind that has been said in the videos on the topic (my head is spinning, though). I’ve had quite some root burn on my orchids with different brands of fertilizers, but the root burn only affects the surface roots and not the roots inside a pot that stay moist longer and also very rarely any exposed root tips, because I try not to let fertilized water touch them. I think that’s similar to what you experienced with your Neofinetia (that has many exposed roots) and potted plants (less effect, because the roots are buried). I’ve prepared a video showing my long-term root burn. It’s quite the opposite of root porn, I’d say. :)
Apparently (according to the manufacturer, I am not watering my orchids enough. Not quite sure how that burns roots and I also thought most orchids were supposed to dry between waterings. Very bored with the whole thing now. I've changed fertiliser and new roots are ok. Normal service has been resumed. I've only ever seen books etc saying that root burn is caused by fertiliser that is mixed too strong and I haven't been doing that. But now an 'expert' is telling me root burn can be caused by my roots drying out and the plants are not getting enough water. They grow, they bloom and I thought most orchids are supposed to dry out between waterings?
The sweeping statement that you simply don't water your orchids enough is apparently not true. You know what you're doing and some of the orchids need to dry out or you would have root rot in no time instead of root burn. But maybe he meant something similar like I stated in my video. The roots are only able to absorb fertilizer as long as they are moist and the fertilizer is dissolved. But if the roots dry faster than they are able to absorb whatever amount of fertilizer is on them, the salt deposit that remains on the outside of the root causes root burn. In my understanding that's how it goes and that can happen with every fertilizer. That way, I think even very little amounts of fertilizer can cause root burn on exposed roots, such little amounts that they would never cause harm to the same roots if these were buried in a pot, because they would stay moist longer and were therefore able to absorb the whole amount of minerals before they dry.
You are right. So what do people do with things like vandas that are bare-root and growing fine - do they water 3 times a day? I just don't get it. Perhaps there is just too much 'science' going on trying to improve our fertilisers without testing these conditions. With the fertiliser I'm now using, the new roots are fine and I haven't changed the way I water or the frequency. So for now, I'm sticking with what seems to be ok. I just hope everyone with some root burns finds a way to stop the problem and still manage to feed their orchids - it's just 'worries' we don't need.
I really don't know. My Vandas are doing very well, although the older roots are greyish and there is some root burn. Vanda roots are pretty hardy. Maybe that is because Vandas are quick with absorbing. Maybe people who have plain white roots on bare-root Vandas use less fertilizer than I do, but fertilize more often to compensate that or Vandas don't need as much fertilizer as I thought or they flush more often or if they use the same dosage that causes root burn on my Vanda roots, maybe a very high humidity is able to keep the fertilizer in a dissolved state or higher temperatures facilitate the absorbtion. It's difficult to compare two different setups. Most of the fertilizer must be absorbed or the deposits cause root burn, don't they? I really don't know, but that's the only explanation that I can think of.
For me it would be a very ambitious goal to stop root burn on my windowsill. I want to boost flowers and growth and that is more than the surface roots can take. Or rather: They can take it, but they aren't white at the same time. But I'll try to do my best to be mindful of it in the future and try to avoid it as best as I can.
+Roger Frampton I water Vanda once per day in 70 degree house. Spraying several times a day is not enough - I dunk or shower them every morning. Also have a bit of moss on their roots.
Thank you so much!
I use the Orchitop-pot. It is a very airy Pot and realy helped me to prevent rootrott, cause i always had issuse with it.
I've never really had a problem with root-rot apart from some orchids where it was already there when I bought the orchid. But I know some others get it quite a bit.
It is pretty cool in my Invironment so my Orchids do not dry up so fast. It is just a matter of observing and anyone will sooner or later discover when to water the Orchids.
thank u, Roger!!! Very complete video about Phals!!!!! You have great material for a book, you need only spell your videos:) I can illustrate that book, it must be very interesting... with humor....,!!!! Yeah yeah yeah:)
Maybe - one day. I know several people who have written books but only once because the 'process' of trying to get it produced by someone, and getting a publisher are very difficult. In one case, it took two months to write and illustrate and three years before the book was available for sale and there was quite a lot of 'high-risk' expenses as there is no guarantee of any returns. With most of the information we could ever want available on the internet for free - there may not even be a place for 'another book'.
I know this, I am illustrated some... the process it´s very funny, and we do that ´ for humanity´ and not for to be rich-D. Oh, sorry, I only impressed for your "talking about the orchid"...You have very good stile of language.
Phals have brightened every day since I've been growing them! Even when I roam from home, I find them...or do they find me? :) Great informative video, Roger. Thanks for sharing your expertise!
The 'forgotten hero' of many orchid collections.
I tend to water when the medium is dry (the sphag. moss becomes a bit hard), as my place is so humid and I am afraid that my phals will get crown rot. The plants look ok, but never grow vigorous like yours. After watching this vid, I guess I have to change my method.
surely the Phal, should be hailed as a success story? what other Orchid will adapt to such often unfavourable conditions! I like them, they are reliable just like a transit van! but aesthetically pleasing.
All hail the phalaenopsis ( and, for me , yes the transit van too. Played in a band for many years - without our trusty transit, many gigs would probably have been missed. And yes, not exactly a 'looker' but in those days, it you didn't turn up in a transit, you were not a 'proper' band.)
Many aerial roots on phals indicate bad roots in media.
Excellent advice especially about ice - where in the tropics or South America does one get ice?
A lot of good information on phalaenopsis. May I ask that you do a basic beginners how to for phalaenopsis for people that have no clue. They have tried to grow them but killed them.
I ask because I ran across some one today that had little to no clue.
I'll see what I can do.......
@@RogersOrchidsGardenandBonsai phalaenopsis for dummies
@@victoriabrownfrank4328 Filmed - will be loaded later today (not that I'm the best person to do this as I only have a few and they don't do too well in my growroom as it gets too cold in Winter).
@@RogersOrchidsGardenandBonsai not so you have basic knowledge own orchids that will benefit somebody that has no clue and you have the ability to explain it where it actually makes sense.
Terminal spike usually means terminal plant :/
Just sending you a pm about something else so please check when you get a chance.
I've heard that - never noticed it - just greedy for the only one with 4 spikes. If I was the 'unscrupulous type' I could swap it for one of the others tomorrow but that's not 'me'. Hope for keikis/side growths then.
Hello, this answered most questions for me, but the one on the right of the one you already watered is my question. You see how the bottom is still damp/wet would you water it that day or wait till it dries more? Thanks again I adore your videos.
With such an extensive root system, that one should have been watered the day before but was left as an example of what a drier one looks like. Sometimes when the bottom of the pot is still wet, I still water - it depends where the roots are in the pot? If most are down the bottom, then I would wait but if there aren't any roots at the bottom (probably why it's still wet in the first place) then I would water the actual area of the pots where most of the roots are. When it's cooler, I wait longer before watering but it just depends on how good the root system is. In the Winter, I sometimes wait 3 weeks between watering but that would normally be for a Phal with a poor root system that just isn't using the water very fast. AND, all of this is totally dependent on what media they are growing in - all of mine are in bark and most are in the largest bark size - plenty of air around the roots.
Roger Frampton thank you. That makes sense if the roots are not at the bottom. I just worry about them dying or stressing. Ugh kids grown but now orchids! Well at least they don't talk back lol
Hi Rodger. Do you have a specific video on watering, and caring for mounted orchids. Best wishes from Bo.
You could start with this one? : ua-cam.com/video/PacCeEgHgkk/v-deo.html
Okay I see in this video the yellow and sweet memory were for sale at the N F show probably! 👍😊
Interesting watching some of these early unwatched vids! As your grow rooms is cooler now, do you still grow your phals but indoors ?
The larger Phals are all gone now.
I was looking back at some of your older videos and came across this one. What ever happened to this yellow one with the terminal spike? I purchased one recently that turns out to have a terminal spike as well. Did yours produce keikis?
I enjoyed the blooms and then put the plant in the raffle at the orchid society.
hello Roger, are you going to be at the show on Thursday? I am working on a stand for my company that day and would like to meet if possible. where is your stall located?
Yes, I'm doing Tues (today) and Thurs. I think we're in the 'floral marquee' but after today, I'll know for sure and post an update. I may go 'walkabout' but someone on the stand will know where I am.
My poor babies are freezing at night lately. Not much I can do about it as I don't want to run heaters overnight, my area is too big. Having said that, two of them are putting out basal keikis. Took them to a meeting last week and told how I lucky I am. Yeah? Lol.
Keikis = 'free plants' in my book. Here on the south coast, the nights are staying above 17-18C - how I wish for some cooler nights - not for my babies, FOR ME!
So Ive grown Phals outside all year round with temperatures down to 5 C and just spent the weekend on safari where at the lodge in the mountains they had some phals in pots on the varandas just starting to spike and we had temperatures around 0 C some mornings, I wonder if its a case of if they are well fed etc they are able to take those low temperatures?
The difference between what they will put up with and what they would like?
Roger's Orchids yes, I was just surprised because all my life, I have heard and read that Phals need warmth and that they might die if temperatures dip below 10 C and even in South Africa they are not recommended as outside plants in the winter rain fall Cape Town area. I have them dotted throughout my house and garden where ever I have space. I wonder if perhaps the modern hybrids can handle lower temperatures?
The modern Phal hybrids are probably the most tolerant of all orchids.
RIP coming soon! ( you are so funny)
Hi Roger, hope you enjoyed the show and it was successful for you. Okay I have been searching for a specific one the Phalaenopsis Legarto. I know it exists and so far in the world very few nurseries/growers have heard of it. I have managed to locate a phal nursery that sells it, only problem is it's on a Russian website and I don't speak or understand Russian. Do you know of anyone who speaks English who knows of it or would sell me one? Thanks Roger, best wishes Chris
If you use the 'google translate' function, you can highlight some text then copy/paste into the translate page and you get a good idea of what's being said.
Roger Frampton unfortunately only have an iPad, no computer, so can't copy and paste, at least I don't think I can, no mouse. Thanks anyway
Chris Trinder I hope you’ve learned to cut & paste on iPad. The Apple store has free classes & they’ll help you with ??s anytime!
Wet, dry, wet, dry. Right? Do you use liquid fertilizers?
That's an 'old one'! My fertiliser I'm using now came from the US (First Ray's) and is a powder/granule type so I mix it up into a strong 'stock solution' which needs to be kept cool and dark and then I add that to my RO water and use a TDS meter to get the strength I want to use. I also use CalMAG on occasions which is a liquid - I always use this separately and I don't mix fertilisers. As far as Phalaenopsis hybrids are concerned, yes - a wet/dry cycle works well for them (although some of the species don't like to dry out. The other thing with these is they will grow much better if kept at quite high temps 20C at night and 27-28C day time with humidity around 60-70% but having said that, they are very 'tolerant' and will do ok grown in the home too.
I'm going on vacation for one week? How do I keep my phals watered?
What part of the world are you from and what media do they grow in?
In most cases, a well-watered phal would last a week ok.
Precautions could include : water them well and move them to a cooler room with plenty of shade (not dark) away from any bright light. But remember that phals should not get cold - try and stay above 18C / 65F day and night.
I seem to kill all my phals! :( I have a few new ones I am persevering with
I still want that "real" blue phalaenopsis but looks like Chiba University in Japan will never release it for commercial purposes.
Thanks Roger - as usual, lots of good info. Just an FYI...the chlorine evaporating overnight trick really doesn’t work all that well.. Even in the old days..25 + yrs ago..it needed at least 24 hours - was what the fish clubs all said. And fish react quick to bad water. But all that is a mute point now as most, I.e., municipal water in the US anyway use chloramines (chlorine and ammonia). The reason for the change - to stabilize the disinfection process to last more time and due to different types and aging water pipes and systems and to last through periods of storage. My own utility says it would take several weeks to a month or more to decrease but not eliminate the chlorinamine levels. My TDS was just high enough that roots didn’t do well plus it makes no sense to use any kinda of microbial beneficial activity products if you use tap water...because it will kill the microbes. Same if you use any fungicides, or products like Physan20 etc. - they all kill good and bad microbes the same as hydrogen peroxide. Rainwater made such a difference. Collecting rainwater really isn’t difficult. You can set dishtubs under the downspout or my favorite on my deck...my older umbrella has a tilt position so I tilt it as far as it goes to the side and set a 5 gallon bucket under the lowest point. The water runs down and drips/runs into it during rainstorms - I run out and move the full bucket and put an empty one. It fills quick. You can even set up a small tarp to do the same like collecting water when camping. When it stops raining or sometimes during, I pour the buckets into a dark grey 32 gallon Rubbermaid Brute trashcan which stays in the shade (of the umbrella) and after an entire summer never got stinky or smelly or even green - just a little bit algae on the sides but the water stayed clear. I tie on an old sheet to filter any bits of leaves etc and rubberband the extra fabric when filling or during rain storms and when dumping the buckets in and I keep the lid on all the rest of the time. Even in 95F it stayed relatively cool and TDS was 5-7. ppm. I think what ever you have to do- get rainwater. If you live in an apt that has no downspouts, umbrellas - see if you can use a friend’s yard to collect it. RO wastes too much water, and cheap systems are almost worthless and are a false sense of security. If you have RO, make sure you get it tested in the beginning and every couple of years. Distilled water is expensive. Rainwater is free. Have somewater like JR Peters do an analysis on your water - they charge $40. See their website also will check tissue from plants for nutritional. They do all kinds of tests - water, plant, media, fertilizer tests.
I have an RO unit so I use it.
did that mini phal made a new growing point?
No - I put that one down to experience and passed it on to someone else (with the warning that it had a terminal bloom spike).
The best water to use is used aquarium water. The nitrates fish produce feed the orchid. The orchid blooms then bees find it and make honey. Orchid Honey.
Take your buying price and double it that's what we do to make a minimum profit at work
Love thy Phals :) sez me
Thanks