I think theres always going to be a ceiling height with lift speeds, no matter what the tensile strength of the resin. More granular control over the lift speeds/distances for any printer would help out a lot and would let you reduce print times considerably. Sunlu is good stuff for the money. I've gone through maybe 200 litres of it now and bar a few hiccups when I was dialling my settings in, its been a solid performer. Probably my go-to resin for vehicles and terrain.
Try sunlu solid black abs like mixed with it! I bought it because all the grey was out of stock but it is NOT normal resin in the bottle its smokey black clear flexible and mixing it with my ABS like grey from sunlu has gave me an amazing strong flexible resin! Never use nothing else now and don't by my serhia tech anymore as this mix is Good enough! Try it honestly it's been the best mistake I've found in a while!
Thanks for the video! I hope you do more on 3D printing. Would love to get some of your tips and tricks also more of your opinions on the different resins saving to get my iwn 3D printer for Christmas
I love this resin. I make a 2:1 mix of sunlu abs like to sunlu nylon like. It helps fix a lot of the printing problems I encountered with using just the nylon like.
When you said you mixed "Tenacious Resin" into the Sunlu Nylon Like, did you mean Siraya Tech Tenacious? And 10% would be enough to further enhance this material?
Question how do you head out your resin and how do you detect whether or not it has reach the correct point? Do you simply boil some water and put the container in there and then stick a thermometer in it to see it if has reached the temperature you wanted?? Also what kind of thermometer should be used?
Hey mate, how does this compare to the sunlu toughness resin? I usually mix about 10% toughness resin into their ABS-like resin for my 40k minis, but toughness is almost always out of stock. Do you think I could substitute in the nylon-like resin instead of the toughness?
@@TheOuterCircle This does in fact check out. thanks for the quick reply. The fresh conscripts were REALLY rubbery and unpleasant for a good bit of time, longer than I had expected, and just as I thought they seemed fleshy to shred in the meat grinder, my new recruits were ready to go to Waagh. Rubber knees cured and a spikey bit every bit as stiff as a git can get his tip bit into toe, foot, or foe with his stiff git tip prick top staring up from your moms carpet.
I'm not sure your really that on point with your 3d printing info. I'm a part of 3d printing discords and have been since early 2019. I'd say the vast majority of people print at 0.05mm layers. The speed is pretty much BS with these 'fast' printers. The fast printing they claim is mostly from the particular very brittle resin and the huge layers they choose to achieve those advertised speeds. My modded photon prints with 2.5s layers @ 0.05. 4mm lift at 60mm/sec. I doubt these printers are much faster. And that's with normal resin. Plus I think print speed now is basically irrelevant. Any printer with a mono screen, which is all of them now, can print plenty fast. The only things that matter in 3D printers now, is screen size and does it have a chamber heater. Every 10" printer comes with an 8k screen or better now. So really the only thing that matters from that point is chamber heater. If it has no heater, go cheap. I'd only buy a printer with a chamber heater now. Resin temperature is probably the leading cause of failure. Most resins do well around 25 degrees - 30 degrees.
I got Leman Russ chassis down to under 3 hours with consistently good results for a whole tank and I even got the fastest one down to sub 2 hours, so the speed can be achieved if you work out your settings right on the faster printers. 8k screens is the most you need at 10" anyway, and if you're only printing at 0.05mm you may as well just use 4/6k as if you're dropping the settings you may as well scale it. Totally agree on vat temp tho!
Macca explaining millimeters to Americans like we have never heard of them cracked me up
I thought you measured in heart attacks to the 30-06.
@@TheOuterCircle Heart attacks roughly translate to millimeters, 30-06 to centimeters, football fields to meters, moon landings to kilometers.
I think theres always going to be a ceiling height with lift speeds, no matter what the tensile strength of the resin. More granular control over the lift speeds/distances for any printer would help out a lot and would let you reduce print times considerably.
Sunlu is good stuff for the money. I've gone through maybe 200 litres of it now and bar a few hiccups when I was dialling my settings in, its been a solid performer. Probably my go-to resin for vehicles and terrain.
Try sunlu solid black abs like mixed with it! I bought it because all the grey was out of stock but it is NOT normal resin in the bottle its smokey black clear flexible and mixing it with my ABS like grey from sunlu has gave me an amazing strong flexible resin! Never use nothing else now and don't by my serhia tech anymore as this mix is Good enough! Try it honestly it's been the best mistake I've found in a while!
What are your best proportions of that mix?
Thanks for the video! I hope you do more on 3D printing. Would love to get some of your tips and tricks also more of your opinions on the different resins saving to get my iwn 3D printer for Christmas
I love this resin. I make a 2:1 mix of sunlu abs like to sunlu nylon like. It helps fix a lot of the printing problems I encountered with using just the nylon like.
What did this fix?
@@Coreyxschmidt the over flexing and pulling issues when printing. It just gives it a bit more rigidity.
How does this compare to Elegoo ABS-like resin?
It has better tensile properties than ABS-like, as in you can 'pull' the material a greater distance before it will snap.
I found that even the standard Sunlu resin is tough. Too bad its out of stock or over priced in amazon now
Excellent topic and coverage! Order placed, will be trying it out myself!
When you said you mixed "Tenacious Resin" into the Sunlu Nylon Like, did you mean Siraya Tech Tenacious? And 10% would be enough to further enhance this material?
Love the review! Those prints look great!
Just like with armor, turns out making composites is much better than using a single type of material. Interesting, lots of room to experiment
I do teach composite engineering for work these days lol
Question how do you head out your resin and how do you detect whether or not it has reach the correct point?
Do you simply boil some water and put the container in there and then stick a thermometer in it to see it if has reached the temperature you wanted??
Also what kind of thermometer should be used?
Laser thermometer, measure in 5 locations. You can buy bed heaters online.
Hey mate, how does this compare to the sunlu toughness resin? I usually mix about 10% toughness resin into their ABS-like resin for my 40k minis, but toughness is almost always out of stock. Do you think I could substitute in the nylon-like resin instead of the toughness?
Quick question from a dude new to printing who picked this stuff up as a first resin: is it always rubbery? Can I fix that?
It is solid after curing fully, but has slight (very slight) flex so that it is not brittle.
@@TheOuterCircle This does in fact check out. thanks for the quick reply. The fresh conscripts were REALLY rubbery and unpleasant for a good bit of time, longer than I had expected, and just as I thought they seemed fleshy to shred in the meat grinder, my new recruits were ready to go to Waagh. Rubber knees cured and a spikey bit every bit as stiff as a git can get his tip bit into toe, foot, or foe with his stiff git tip prick top staring up from your moms carpet.
Try 'Resione Anti-Impact', it's an outstanding resin and resolves all of these problems.
I'll check it out!
Hey Macca, I just moved in to my apartment. How do I set up an area for airbrushing Minis? I don’t want to get paint or resin on the carpet.
Buy an airbrush booth and a vinyl mat that you can place on the floor before you start. You can place the ventilation for the booth out the window.
Sem teste?
I'm not sure your really that on point with your 3d printing info.
I'm a part of 3d printing discords and have been since early 2019.
I'd say the vast majority of people print at 0.05mm layers.
The speed is pretty much BS with these 'fast' printers.
The fast printing they claim is mostly from the particular very brittle resin and the huge layers they choose to achieve those advertised speeds.
My modded photon prints with 2.5s layers @ 0.05. 4mm lift at 60mm/sec.
I doubt these printers are much faster. And that's with normal resin.
Plus I think print speed now is basically irrelevant. Any printer with a mono screen, which is all of them now, can print plenty fast.
The only things that matter in 3D printers now, is screen size and does it have a chamber heater.
Every 10" printer comes with an 8k screen or better now.
So really the only thing that matters from that point is chamber heater.
If it has no heater, go cheap. I'd only buy a printer with a chamber heater now. Resin temperature is probably the leading cause of failure.
Most resins do well around 25 degrees - 30 degrees.
I got Leman Russ chassis down to under 3 hours with consistently good results for a whole tank and I even got the fastest one down to sub 2 hours, so the speed can be achieved if you work out your settings right on the faster printers. 8k screens is the most you need at 10" anyway, and if you're only printing at 0.05mm you may as well just use 4/6k as if you're dropping the settings you may as well scale it.
Totally agree on vat temp tho!
Good video, sadly very few views
Today I learned that there is an STL for double breasted chauffer jacket Mk 3 space marines.