Drill with a smaller hole because it’ll be easier going through the concrete, then move up to the larger drill bit. It takes less toll on your drill,especially if it’s cordless.
Really stupid question but for clarification, you mean you would recommend drilling a smaller bit first and then use the size for your anchor? I ask only because I have yet to see it mentioned for masonry drilling but of course it's mentioned for wood drilling...since brick can be more brittle some times, as a newb DIYer I don't know when it comes to brick
I did this experiment on my own as I did not want to go out an buy a hammer drill if I didn't need it. After going through 2 batteries and not even getting through 1 1/2 holes I decided to buy a drill with the hammer feature. It was a night and day difference. It took me just 5 minutes to drill the rest of the holes I needed.
Good luck with this approach. I tried this when I moved from my old home into my current one. In the old house I could easily drill into the wall with a normal (corded) drill and a masonry bit. Tried that in the new one, took me an hour, I got about 5 mm in and I had to get a new masonry bit. I also bought a hammerdrill and it took me 5 seconds. This same wall, I hired someone to drill a hole for the kitchen ventilation. He came, and then used a huge diamondcore drill with watercooling that he bolted on the wall with 4 separate bolts. Still took him 5 minutes to get through the first wall at full power. Yeah, my walls are a bit of an outlier, but still. If you find yourself with really hard concrete, get a hammer drill. It's way easier.
It's all fun and game until you hit steel rebar. I have a hammerdrill and an 8 mm (1/3" roughly) to 5 cm takes me about 5 seconds. But if I hit rebar, the only thing that helps is a new location. A friend of mine told me that his hammerdrill "eats right through rebar", I have no idea what he's using and it's hard to believe.
Thank you for comfirming. I am trying to drill holes in my ceiling and it is extremely hard so I can not put my eight behind it as I am drilling overhead and not downward. I will buy the hammer drill as I’ve wanted hours trying it with the regular drill
It’s a good idea to mark the hole's centre position with a cross that’s a bit larger than the drill bit. That way, if the drill drifts at the start you won’t loose the correct centre position if the drill moves a little and scrubs some of the mark out.
Having drilled thousands of holes in masonry I can say that having the right tool for the job makes things go much smoother and quicker, and that would be with a rotary hammer drill. Yes you can use a regular drill with a masonry bit, and as commented on, you're going to have to use some physical pressure to get the job done. I believe the point is, if you only need a few holes for a specific install then it isn't necessary to blow a bunch of money for another tool. However, if you're doing this in a repetitive fashion then save your body and energy and use the correct tool for the job and get the job done more efficiently.
Also depends on the material you are drilling. I know this video is about concrete, but a regular drill even with a masonry bit would just simply not work on certain brick and concrete that is extra hard, old brick especially. There are some materials that requires that hammering effect which chips away at the material as opposed to just drilling it.
@@anilg28 sorry, I missed your inquiry, I would recommend an SDS hammer drill. I have a Dewalt myself but there's lots of them out there, corded and battery models. Folks tend to be brand loyal so take a look at your favorite first. On some of the SDS drills you can get attachments that will do things like drive a ground rod in the ground,.. very helpful for electricians.
Not to mention the added stress put on the regular drill motor, battery and gears. For a hole or two probably okay but anything more would be not good.
This was one of the most helpful videos. I used the same drill your using to install a sturdy ground anchor, the cement was almost as easy as wood. At first I tried a cheap bit - it overheated and barely made the hole. Then I switched to a quality bit - HUGE difference. I'm also 240 which probably helped - thank you for saving me from buying an overpowered tool that I'd never use.
I had a project for a customer last fall that required me to drill several holes in very old concrete. After trying to use my regular drill and several bits later, I decided it would be much easier to rent a hammer drill and it was a wise decision for sure.
Depends on the concrete. The concrete i had to drill had really hard rocks mixed in. At some point it stops drilling, the bit heats up and it wears out.
Rebar in concrete is a drill bit killer, but special SDS drill bit exist that claims to go thrugh rebar like butter. What happens when you hit rebar is that the drill bit can not "eat" the metal and heat starts to build up and melts away the tip of the drill bit and you are toasted. What I have done a few times when I feel I had hit rebar, I take a regularly drill with a standard metal drill bit and sacrifice that drill bit to go thrugh the rebar.
The difference is wear and tear on your cordless. If you’re doing lots of holes you will burn up the cordless, a good sds hammer drill will last years with daily use. For a home owner this is fine, but for me, a 25 year veteran in structural concrete form work, it’s not even comparable.
No kidding! I burn up at least 10 cordless drills a year from drilling concrete with them. Happens all the time. All my coworkers have the same complaint. A cordless drill will only last for about 1,000 holes before it burns up.
I've used masonry drills on many occasions and have to use one again today. SO, being a terrible procrastinator, I thought I'd have a look at UA-cam for how to use a masonry drill, before starting the job. It turned out well because I watched this video. I'd not initiated the hole on non-hammer before, so I'll give that a go. And I'd never considered not using a hammer drill for masonry bits, so that's a lesson too. Anyway, very good video, it's now 10 minutes later, 12 mid-day where I am, meaning it's lunch time. I'll now start my job after lunch. Thanks very much for providing an excellent distraction!!! I've got to go now because my wife is screaming at me to get off the computer...
I came here because I bought a 20v cordless drill and it just got delivered today. Never used a drill until a few hours ago and I want to mount a TV on my concrete wall. I'm giving this a try tomorrow and I pray it works out and I don't phuqq myself up 😂 fingers crossed 🤞🏼
You saved me $150-$200. I was about to go buy the hammer drill, however your video gave me the confidence to get the work done with driver drill!! Thank you, really appreciate your advice!!🍻
If you're going to spend the money skip the hammer drill and get a small sds plus rotary hammer. Drill holes faster and you can switch off the rotation and use chisel bits
I’m having a hard time getting the provided masonry drill bit that came with concrete screws to drill trough an outdoor brick area. Using a 20v dewalt max. I tried applying a lot of force into the drill but hole is like not even halfway
Tip: use a drinking straw to reach the bottom of the hole with the vacuum and clamp your hand around the vac nozzle and straw top.. it's way easier to get the dust out.
Option 3: Rotary Hammer plus SDS bits. The SDS bits are splined which allows for a superior hammering action. Can also be used as a mini breaker (with appropriate chisel bits). Well worth the investment.
Yeah, now its not expensive to buy off brand one. China makes millions of them, and its completely ok if you don't use it as professional tool every day.
I resisted getting a hammer drill for a long time. I needed to drill into concrete on occasion but not often enough that I thought it justified buying a hammer drill. I was wrong. Drilling into concrete is fun with the right kind of drill. More importantly, if you intend to use Red Head anchors you need a hole fairly close to cylindrical. The ragged hole produced by a non hammer drill may not be smooth enough. It is true that for smaller holes, maybe less than 3/16 of an inch a regular drill works OK. For 3/8 inch holes a regular drill might work if you are on Mars and can't get a hammer drill. But, if you're on Mars, you need to drill a half inch hole or larger into concrete and you can't get a hammer drill, just give up and enjoy the time you have left.
If you want to get more than 2 or three holes from your drill bit, have a bucket of water handy, and dip the drill bit into it every so often. This keeps the bit from over heating and loosing its temper. I also use a cold chisel punch to start my hole. This keeps the drill bit from wondering. Simply place the punch in the correct location and smack it with a hammer a couple of times. Also, if you are drilling into brick or concrete block, it is best to not use the hammer function, and it will blow out the back of the block like an explosion.
Hi, I believe that the proper drill for this job would be a SDS hammer. It is significantly faster then a hammer drill and it will take about 3-4 seconds to drill a hole.
Thanks for the tip about marking holes where you want them to be. I was randomly drilling holes all over and didn't understand why the bracket didn't line up.
Thank you. Just need 4 holes for a water hose mount. I dont need anything fancy. Im a country gurl that lives and breathes outdoors handy work around my home. Will do just fine for me. Thank you for the 2 comparisons. Great video. Really great.😊
Some old concrete that was poured back in the 20th century simply can't be drilled with a regular drill, especially larger holes. It has to do with the amount of crystalization within the concrete. New concrete that was made with high water content and allowed to dry very fast has lower crystalization and is more like styrofoam compared to old concrete. The concrete in this video looks newer and 'builder grade' (cheap and fast).
It depends on the concrete. If it's fresh concrete with lots of sand and no gravel, then it can be relatively easy to drill through. If it's decades-old concrete with lots of gravel then you'll want a hammer drill.
That's the best reason for a hammer drill, getting through rocks in the concrete without problems like the hole getting huge or having to stop to break each rock by hand.
Buying a good DeWalt SDS hammer drill was one of the great purchases of my entire idiotic tool collecting life. It all depends on how many holes you need to drill, how big the holes are, and how hard the concrete or stone is. I have drilled probably thousands of holes in masonry. You can definitely just use a regular drill with a good sharp masonry tool bit. Slow and dreary but it does work. The next step up is the basic hammer drill. They are a bit faster but also super loud and vibrate like you can hardly hold on to them. I wore out a really nice Bosch corded hammer drill so ended up buying this very sweet cordless DeWalt SDS rotary hammer. Cordless I say! OMG so fast, a fraction of the vibration, so much quieter you can actually not use ear protection, I am not kidding. Also it will just a hammer, miniature jackhammer which is fantastic. Constructed walls in my basement had to drill about 50 holes into very old concrete. It was a real true pleasure using this new drill. If you just need to drill a few holes on one random project then yeah go ahead and buy masonry drill bit and have at it. I can give you about 20 of em I don't need the cursed things I have all SDS kit now.
A lot of common sense here. Very nice video. For old concrete an SDS type drill is better than a hammer drill. A single cordless combo drill (drill. screw, hammer) would get most things done around the house if you only want one tool. If you do a lot of heavier duty work in concrete or a big renovation a regular drill/screw driver paired an SDS drill (with a chisel function) could be a good alternative option.
I used to do with a cordless no hammer drill for convenience, and now I’m straight getting an extra wired hammer drill. It does the work in seconds instead of minutes, and my neighbors prefer a short burst than a long wiring sound
If you're mounting a plate with multiple holes, use the plate as a jig to start the holes in correct orientation to each other after getting at least one accurately started by eye, marker and/or punch.
I came to look on how to drill into concrete because I am fixing my porch that has some loose decorative posting. I am only 105 lb lady, and I will try with my electric screw driver. I am afraid it may not work for me. I have to go get the masonry bit. I am hoping for the best since my holes are fairly small. The house former owner never secured these things, and they are a hazard. Thanks for the instructions!
Thanks for using the same model of drill i am looking to use. Lots of experience using sds and rotary hammer tools, but this job is independent and required only what i own. I know i can kill (3) 3/8" anchors at 3" dewp with my tool and not kill it
Purchasing cheap off brand sds+ rotary hammer drill is never bad idea. Cheapest rotary hammer is infinitely more productive than hammer drill. You have to put a lot of pressure to do anything with it and it will quickly wear out your drill and drill bit.
@@Georgggg the job went poorly. I spent 2x 5/32 bits to pilot, and 2x 1/4 bits to size the hole. Burnt, blued and destroyed all 4 bits. 5/16 x 2-1/4Tapcons failed, driver was stripping the heads off before they made it 1/4 depth. Went back for wedge anchors 1/4 x 2-1/4 and they performed. Yeah... I was really missing the Bosch bulldog, or the DeWalt battery SDS, that I've used with other contractors... Rough day!!!
Was drilling holes for a gate lock into concrete. Took me 20 minutes with a drill for a 1 inch deep hole. Then my neighbor came over with his hammer drill. 2nd hole took me 2 minutes.
so first thing, i have a tight budget for hammer drill and im currently only using just regular drill...so with various of other comments here...well i personally think choose the tools that can be supported by ur budget..anyway the videos really did helped me to drill through concrete walls with regular drill and masonry bits...maybe in the future if my budget allow ill equip a new hammer drill soon...thanks
1. It is not really easy to drill to concrete WITHOUT the hammer function specially when drilling holes to the wall or concrete soffits. Try "applying" your own weight on those. 2. Forcing your cordless drill to this concrete, and then doing it several times, will wear down your battery even faster which will require you to charge more often. It is interesting to see how many holes the cordless drill without the hammer function can finish with one charge(considering the battery capacity, of course) 3. It is also interesting to know that hammer drills will make your work faster and more efficient in this kind of situation. The hammer function is designed to some drills, corded or cordless, for a reason. Sure the non-hammer drills will get the job done as seen in the video. But if you want efficiency(specially if you are drilling a lot of hiles on concrete), you may want to consider affording a hammer drill. It is not that you don't need a hammer drill per se. But it is about considering the right tools for the right job.
Exactly. If I had less than two holes to drill and no hammer drill, I'd proceed carefully, cooling the bit frequently and using the bit as a chisel to break any rocks encountered by hand. If I had more holes than that to drill, I'd stop and get the right tool.
If yout using expanding anchors it doesn't matter what kind of drill but if your using tapcons your less likely to wallow out the hole with a hammer drill and the screws will hold better. Also if your not using a hammer drill your goi g to wear out the drill bit faster.
I have drilled concrete with a regular drill and masonry bit and it's not fun. What takes minutes can be done in seconds with a hammer drill. Worth the investment.
You can drill a hole with out the hammer function however u will need to replace your bits quite often because the bit will overheat even while spraying water
I was drilling holes into concrete last weekend and found the drill bit going blunt after the first hole a problem as I needed to drill 8 holes I was using a 5/16 masonry drill bit
if you are on a budget then what I would recommend is to buy a corded hammer drill. its not that expensive compared to a regular corded non hammer drill but makes a huge difference in my opinion because you cant always use your body weight in every situation. sometimes I drill way high up or in weird places where I cant use much of my body weight. And obviously if you are drilling multiple holes, you'll feel tired because you are also doing some of the work which the tool is not doing. Also bits gets duller quicker and less effective without a hammering action. if your home is made using bricks and concrete then I suggest leaning towards a bigger rotary SDS type drill because those things works super well. They have much slower RPMs but the actual hammer effect is way higher. Since they spin slowly and have a better impact, the bits will last much longer as well. However these drills will use a different type of drill bits which you can slide in and you cant use other drill bits for example when drilling wood or metal without an adaptor. Most SDS drills will come with this adaptor but I think you can buy separately too. with most SDS type drills you can also select what you wanna do. you can just use the rotary action or just the hammer action or both at once. great if you wanna break up tile or small stuff like that. if you got the money then what I recommend is to get a cordless normal drill + a SDS drill. owning just ONE drill is not that ideal because lets say you just got the SDS drill, then if you wanna drill metal or wood you have to use an adapter, then another drill bit. but if you got a cordless one too, then you can use that for wood or metal. I think all cordless drills comes with a keyless chuck so its easy to switch bits too. another advice is you can rent and see before you actually buy the tool. just rent both drills and use em for a while and see the difference and see for yourself if paying more is better. In my case I own couple of normal drills and a corded hammer drill. When I need to drill a lot of holes I just rent a SDS drill. For now I don't have that many use cases to own one.
Good luck at my house with that. My grandpa used the same concrete for the foundation and cellar walls that he used to build bunkers with during WW2. Even when using a hammer drill and good Hilti bits, the concrete sometimes just turns white. When you manage to finally drill the hole, the bit is relatively fcked. xD
I have a Ryobi 18 V drill, with a masonry drill bit on I just bought, and it only goes in about an inch and a half then I get nowhere. I need to go 2 1/2 inches into the foundation of my house to secure a board. I think the bits I have a garbage that I bought at Home Depot
If you want to drill into concrete effortlessly. Get a Bosch Bulldog. You can find a brand new one for $145 if you look around. It will last you for years to come and has many uses. It is a rotary hammer so you can drill, drill and hammer or just hammer. Hammer only allows you to bust out stucco or concrete. It's like a mini jackhammer. You can use it to remove tile. It uses SDS bits so they lock in and don't fall out. You can use an adapter that will allow you to use regular drill bits if need be.
Agreed, I have a Bosch hammer drill and use the special locking bits. It's the ONLY answer for making holes in precast concrete panels which are the preferred format for building in Europe. The Bosch is the only machine which can zap into this material and I would have been lost without it for every serious installation when I moved here in Vienna six years ago.
Dan, thanks for your instructional video. Really appreciate it. Can you also share what anchor (including picture) would use for a 6" thick cement deck for a storage shed in the back yard. Any feed back appreciated.
I'm a DIY person and I noticed that my cordless and good drill bits just better than I remember vs 15 years ago. I think it has something to do with cordless being stronger and modern drill bits a lot better than back in the day. still, I prefer the hammer mode as without it the job is slower and a cheap drill bit becomes too hot or dull.
I have a fish pond with 2 closed off concrete walls on the side that trap rain water. I was gonna get a saw but I think I can makensome drainage holes now with the right drill bit. Thank you! Hopefully this saved me some fundsol
I thought I knew how to drill into concrete until one day I was drilling into something not even the hammer drill would do any good on so I bought a rotary hammer drill and omg it was like a hot knife through butter. In fact, I had to hold it back a bit.
@@SlackersIndustry yes, they are two different things. I've found that the rotary hammer drill can be too fast sometimes and therefore go a bit out of control on some softer concrete and go too deep too fast if I don't hold it back. And I don't use it on brickwork. Mine is a Ryobi 1500watt but you can get smaller and bigger. Good luck with your project.
This is totally contrary to my experience, especially in older concrete. I had a number of holes to drill and couldn’t get more than an eighth of an inch with a regular drill in spite of me putting all my weight behind it (with a new masonry bit). I switched to a hammer drill and it drilled like butter.
Masonary bits are horrible. I only needed to drill two holes in my garage for some garage door sensors. It seems like the bit dulled almost halfway through the first hole that I needed to drill. Had to use so much force and took twice as long as what you demoed with your ordinary drill. Mine was a Ryobi 18volt drill with a heavy-duty lithium battery. Maybe the bits I got from Home Depot were poorly made also by Ryobi.
It really does depend entirely on the frequency, size, and type of holes you're drilling into what type of masonry that seals the deal for what tool you actually need. If you're the casual handyman who, on occasion, needs to drill a half inch hole into concrete, brick, mortar, cinder block, etc, the average rotary hammer with a solid masonry bit will work just fine. I wouldn't even blink twice telling someone to who needed to drill two holes for a concrete anchor into a brick to hang a gas cylinder bracket to use a rotary drill, even a cordless one. If you do any sort of masonry drilling with regularity, of diameters larger than 1/2" into reinforced concrete, bricks, cinder blocks filled with cement, don't waste a second trying to use a regular rotary drill. *Find and buy the largest rotary hammer drill you can, preferably with an SDS or SDS Max chuck with at least 10 amps and 5+ foot pounds of energy and quality SDS bits that is CORDED* You'll be legitimately shocked how quickly you'll pulverize all the above listed materials. Anyone who has large bore holes to drill on a weekly basis will attest to this. If you worked construction for any length of time and how to augur through masonry, you'd be either let go or laughed off the jobsite using a rotary drill, pressing with all your might trying to get through a single brick while the professional three walls down is slightly leaning into the wall with his rotary hammer drill bulldozing through with ease. I've actually seen (and done in my amateur days) someone burn through two whole batteries on a cordless drill trying to drill into a cinder block nearly breaking their wrist through the effort. I walked up with the Bosch Bulldog Extreme with the notorious Bosch masonry bits and punched the desired hole length through in, no joke, 30 seconds. He looked at me, then down at his drill, and enough was said...which wasn't anything. In my opinion, Bosch and Makita make the best rotary hammer drills on the market with Bosch making the best SDS and SDS Max bits for said drills. They humiliate and brutalize masonry like it's an annoyance they're in thew way of the tunneling bit. Well worth the money.
Using the cordless drill, which is more beneficial?...using the gearbox in speed 1, or speed 2? And as well, which torque setting? My Ridgid has 24 stops and the aforementioned two speed gearbox. I am drilling 4 holes in concrete porch to install a handicap railing. Thanks.
You have a cordless drill and you want to drill a half inch hole in concrete, first of all it is the wrong tool for the job, not that it cant be done, you can, you will have to put a lot of pressure on the thing, so low speed and maximum tourgh setting. If you are smart you start with a small size hole drill to the needed depth a, go up in size from there, use quality drill bits if it is more that a few holes you will have to make. If the drill gets warm/hot let it rest for a while, read the manual about duty cycle, don't be surprised if you can only drill for 5-10 minutes and then let it rest for 30-60 minutes, you see it is not the best/right tool for the job, sorry.
That was very informative, thank you. I likes the tip about correcting the position of the hole. Sometimes it’s a bit hard to put all your weight on the drill, though, like when you’re drilling high on the wall from a ladder, or in the ceiling. Recently I had to drill 6mm holes in the concrete ceiling and even a hammer drill didn’t do the trick, I had to use a rotary hammer.
Hi, please somebody help… Does anyone know if I can bolt a boxing stand frame (200kg/400lbs total weight including bag) on just my concrete tiles? The concrete tiles are standard squares and just lay on top of soil. Hope someone can help. Thanks :)
Definitely gear 2 not 1, the latter is for screwing. For the 1-12 if this is your speed setting it's typ. somewhere in between but you have to try. The optimal speed depends on the drill bit and concrete strength. In any case don't overheat the drill bit. Have more and rotate through if it's a big job. Note that 1-12 could also be your max torque setting, then it's the max 12.
You say a hammerdrill is not going to create better quality holes than a regular drill but I beg to differ based on my 18 years in the industry. I appreciate the hack more or less but it is like using a fork over a spoon for cereal. Sure you can use a fork but it isn't optimal. A hammerdrill is much easier and efficient. The biggest discrepancy here is the difference of drilling into fresh concrete as your video shows and drilling into mature concrete, which is not addressed. Hardness is significantly different. Yes, you can use a regular drill in a pinch but you should not rely on it regularly as it is hard on your tools and will cost you more in the long run.
I appreciate your perspective and I think we mostly agree. Here's a question though. What if homeowner only has a couple of wholes to drill and they don't currently own a hammer drill? You think it's worth it for them to buy one?
@@StayHandy I don’t disagree on necessity based on infrequency. Of course it wouldn’t be monetarily justifiable but rather that you don’t have the same quality with both tools as you suggested. I have been working on a basement remodel of a house built in 1905. The concrete there is extremely hard. There has been no choice other than using a hammer drill or ramset. I also just poured a concrete pad for a shed and it was cake to drill. The application was my main point probably not conveyed well.
Just because you CAN do it doesn’t mean you SHOULD. Using a regular drill is better than nothing, but using the proper tool, a rotary hammer drill, is *by far* the best option.
Bro, drilling into a brick wall with a 1/4 inch masonry drill bit using a battery powered drill is so painfully slow it will take less time to drive to rent a hammer drill, drill the holes with the hammer drill, return the hammer drill, and then return home than it would take to use this battery powered drill for these holes. 20 minutes of drilling and I can't even tell if I made any progress. I can't put my weight on it while standing on a ladder the way I could if I was drilling down into the ground. I recommend the hammer drill.
Don't drill too deep, like one of those holes went through, with the depth Guage not shallow enough. Old Navy saw that ... ANCHORS AWAY (do not go down to the bottom, and the mud so deep.. Rrrrr, Love the hammer drill
What drill bit material used - cobalt? - for drilling through brick and concrete. How do I make I nice circular indention that will fit the square part of these bolts just under the head of the bolts? My biggest drill bit won’t so it. Is there a special type of drill bit for this application?
If only this would work all the time. My hammer drill would struggle to drill into my house bricks, in fact it was quicker to go and borrow an impact drill, drill the holes and return the drill. I work as a handy man and use a cordless impact drill, with integrated dust extraction. Quick clean holes every time. Note an impact drill, is different to a hammer drill used in this video and uses an SDS bit.
ok maybe I need to try drilling a smaller hole first. I'm going straight in with a quarter inch and I've got my full weight on it and it feels like the drill isn't going any deeper for minutes of drilling. Those drills you did looked like you were drilling through wood.
It's easy to "put your weight into it" when drilling straight down into a concrete porch or floor. But what if you're drilling horizontally into a masonry wall at roughly 4' to 5' high, where you can't just drop 80+% of your body weight right on top of the drill, and the best you can do is to "lean into it"? Does ^this still work if you're trying to drill a 1/4" to 3/8" horizontal hole into cement between bricks, where the most weight you can *consistently* apply to the back of the drill is 25lbs - 35lbs?
These drills with hammer flavor are bs. Hammer function is gimmick, not needed in soft materials like gypsum or bricks, and useless against concrete. Any cheapest sds+ rotary hammer will win 10 times against them and you don't have to put any weight..
Try this with older inside concrete wall that has been curing for decades. You will drain battery on your aku drill before you get 1cm deep. In the process you will probably burn your drill bit.
I was about to say the same. This is more like cement not a really tough concrete with gravel mixed in. The real problem with gravel mixed in is that you drill will hit it on an angle and if your not deep enough it will start deflecting the bit and making your hole bigger. That can happen even with hammer drill if you using too big of a bit for the size and power of the drill. The worse thing that can happen to some diy trying to save money this way is a screwed up hole. You now have to find a solution and spend money in the middle of a project and the fact that you don’t have the right tools makes it unlikely that you will know how to fix it either. This is more of a heck for experienced people in a situation where they might need to improvise.
In my opinion that larger drill is more closer to a rotary hammer than a hammer drill. The hammer drills I know about are about the same size as the smaller drill in the video with a hammer function
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Drill with a smaller hole because it’ll be easier going through the concrete, then move up to the larger drill bit. It takes less toll on your drill,especially if it’s cordless.
Thanks for the tip.
Do you also recommend using water as a lubricant?
@@zanderesp4295probably just for indoors
Pilot holes? No shit
Really stupid question but for clarification, you mean you would recommend drilling a smaller bit first and then use the size for your anchor? I ask only because I have yet to see it mentioned for masonry drilling but of course it's mentioned for wood drilling...since brick can be more brittle some times, as a newb DIYer I don't know when it comes to brick
I did this experiment on my own as I did not want to go out an buy a hammer drill if I didn't need it. After going through 2 batteries and not even getting through 1 1/2 holes I decided to buy a drill with the hammer feature. It was a night and day difference. It took me just 5 minutes to drill the rest of the holes I needed.
Glad you got it figured out! Thanks for commenting.
Good luck with this approach. I tried this when I moved from my old home into my current one. In the old house I could easily drill into the wall with a normal (corded) drill and a masonry bit. Tried that in the new one, took me an hour, I got about 5 mm in and I had to get a new masonry bit. I also bought a hammerdrill and it took me 5 seconds.
This same wall, I hired someone to drill a hole for the kitchen ventilation. He came, and then used a huge diamondcore drill with watercooling that he bolted on the wall with 4 separate bolts. Still took him 5 minutes to get through the first wall at full power. Yeah, my walls are a bit of an outlier, but still. If you find yourself with really hard concrete, get a hammer drill. It's way easier.
Yes, and also hire someone making a living out of this as you correctly did.
It's all fun and game until you hit steel rebar. I have a hammerdrill and an 8 mm (1/3" roughly) to 5 cm takes me about 5 seconds. But if I hit rebar, the only thing that helps is a new location. A friend of mine told me that his hammerdrill "eats right through rebar", I have no idea what he's using and it's hard to believe.
Thank you for comfirming. I am trying to drill holes in my ceiling and it is extremely hard so I can not put my eight behind it as I am drilling overhead and not downward. I will buy the hammer drill as I’ve wanted hours trying it with the regular drill
One of the best presentations of any DIYer that I've seen.
It’s a good idea to mark the hole's centre position with a cross that’s a bit larger than the drill bit. That way, if the drill drifts at the start you won’t loose the correct centre position if the drill moves a little and scrubs some of the mark out.
Good tip. Thanks
Having drilled thousands of holes in masonry I can say that having the right tool for the job makes things go much smoother and quicker, and that would be with a rotary hammer drill. Yes you can use a regular drill with a masonry bit, and as commented on, you're going to have to use some physical pressure to get the job done. I believe the point is, if you only need a few holes for a specific install then it isn't necessary to blow a bunch of money for another tool. However, if you're doing this in a repetitive fashion then save your body and energy and use the correct tool for the job and get the job done more efficiently.
Agreed
Also depends on the material you are drilling. I know this video is about concrete, but a regular drill even with a masonry bit would just simply not work on certain brick and concrete that is extra hard, old brick especially. There are some materials that requires that hammering effect which chips away at the material as opposed to just drilling it.
Can you please share what's a good hammer drill to buy and drill bit ( including manufacturer) will be greatly appreciated?
@@anilg28 sorry, I missed your inquiry, I would recommend an SDS hammer drill. I have a Dewalt myself but there's lots of them out there, corded and battery models. Folks tend to be brand loyal so take a look at your favorite first. On some of the SDS drills you can get attachments that will do things like drive a ground rod in the ground,.. very helpful for electricians.
Not to mention the added stress put on the regular drill motor, battery and gears. For a hole or two probably okay but anything more would be not good.
This was one of the most helpful videos. I used the same drill your using to install a sturdy ground anchor, the cement was almost as easy as wood. At first I tried a cheap bit - it overheated and barely made the hole. Then I switched to a quality bit - HUGE difference. I'm also 240 which probably helped - thank you for saving me from buying an overpowered tool that I'd never use.
You’re welcome!
You could have rented the drill with a bit for like $35 or less probably.
I already had the drill ...@@berzerkbankie1342
Excellent video. Simple & straightforward.
I had a project for a customer last fall that required me to drill several holes in very old concrete. After trying to use my regular drill and several bits later, I decided it would be much easier to rent a hammer drill and it was a wise decision for sure.
Sounds like it worked out in the wnd
@@StayHandy Yes, it did work-out in the end, but even with a hammer drill, it was still a chore to drill holes in the old concrete.
Concrete hardens with age.
Depends on the concrete. The concrete i had to drill had really hard rocks mixed in. At some point it stops drilling, the bit heats up and it wears out.
@edntzA hammer drill breaks those rocks and continues on. That, to me, is their greatest advantage.
Rebar in concrete is a drill bit killer, but special SDS drill bit exist that claims to go thrugh rebar like butter. What happens when you hit rebar is that the drill bit can not "eat" the metal and heat starts to build up and melts away the tip of the drill bit and you are toasted. What I have done a few times when I feel I had hit rebar, I take a regularly drill with a standard metal drill bit and sacrifice that drill bit to go thrugh the rebar.
The difference is wear and tear on your cordless. If you’re doing lots of holes you will burn up the cordless, a good sds hammer drill will last years with daily use. For a home owner this is fine, but for me, a 25 year veteran in structural concrete form work, it’s not even comparable.
Makes sense.
Yes...I'm sure, he talking about in a pinch dude...he said if you don't have a hammer drill or can't afford it...geez
No kidding! I burn up at least 10 cordless drills a year from drilling concrete with them. Happens all the time. All my coworkers have the same complaint. A cordless drill will only last for about 1,000 holes before it burns up.
@@StayHandy Stop being a stupid p.ick. You NEED a rotary hammer not a regular hammer dill to drill concrete and even brick.
Damn right buddy
I've used masonry drills on many occasions and have to use one again today. SO, being a terrible procrastinator, I thought I'd have a look at UA-cam for how to use a masonry drill, before starting the job. It turned out well because I watched this video. I'd not initiated the hole on non-hammer before, so I'll give that a go. And I'd never considered not using a hammer drill for masonry bits, so that's a lesson too. Anyway, very good video, it's now 10 minutes later, 12 mid-day where I am, meaning it's lunch time. I'll now start my job after lunch. Thanks very much for providing an excellent distraction!!! I've got to go now because my wife is screaming at me to get off the computer...
Haha, enjoy the new tips.
I came here because I bought a 20v cordless drill and it just got delivered today. Never used a drill until a few hours ago and I want to mount a TV on my concrete wall. I'm giving this a try tomorrow and I pray it works out and I don't phuqq myself up 😂 fingers crossed 🤞🏼
How’d it go?
You saved me $150-$200. I was about to go buy the hammer drill, however your video gave me the confidence to get the work done with driver drill!! Thank you, really appreciate your advice!!🍻
I'm so glad to hear it.
you would still want a hammer drill, if you have a big project, eventually your cordless drill will crap out.
If you're going to spend the money skip the hammer drill and get a small sds plus rotary hammer. Drill holes faster and you can switch off the rotation and use chisel bits
I’m having a hard time getting the provided masonry drill bit that came with concrete screws to drill trough an outdoor brick area. Using a 20v dewalt max. I tried applying a lot of force into the drill but hole is like not even halfway
You can have a hammer drill driver
Tip: use a drinking straw to reach the bottom of the hole with the vacuum and clamp your hand around the vac nozzle and straw top.. it's way easier to get the dust out.
Thanks for the tip!
The right drillbit is a must when drilling into concrete and or cement.
Option 3: Rotary Hammer plus SDS bits. The SDS bits are splined which allows for a superior hammering action. Can also be used as a mini breaker (with appropriate chisel bits). Well worth the investment.
Yeah, now its not expensive to buy off brand one. China makes millions of them, and its completely ok if you don't use it as professional tool every day.
I resisted getting a hammer drill for a long time. I needed to drill into concrete on occasion but not often enough that I thought it justified buying a hammer drill. I was wrong. Drilling into concrete is fun with the right kind of drill. More importantly, if you intend to use Red Head anchors you need a hole fairly close to cylindrical. The ragged hole produced by a non hammer drill may not be smooth enough. It is true that for smaller holes, maybe less than 3/16 of an inch a regular drill works OK. For 3/8 inch holes a regular drill might work if you are on Mars and can't get a hammer drill. But, if you're on Mars, you need to drill a half inch hole or larger into concrete and you can't get a hammer drill, just give up and enjoy the time you have left.
If you want to get more than 2 or three holes from your drill bit, have a bucket of water handy, and dip the drill bit into it every so often. This keeps the bit from over heating and loosing its temper. I also use a cold chisel punch to start my hole. This keeps the drill bit from wondering. Simply place the punch in the correct location and smack it with a hammer a couple of times. Also, if you are drilling into brick or concrete block, it is best to not use the hammer function, and it will blow out the back of the block like an explosion.
Good tips
Hi, I believe that the proper drill for this job would be a SDS hammer. It is significantly faster then a hammer drill and it will take about 3-4 seconds to drill a hole.
Great video and great information
I have a good idea - use an SDS drill and drill the hole much quicker, smoother, quieter and a lot less wear on the drill and bits.
Thanks for the tip about marking holes where you want them to be. I was randomly drilling holes all over and didn't understand why the bracket didn't line up.
Haha
Thank you. Just need 4 holes for a water hose mount. I dont need anything fancy. Im a country gurl that lives and breathes outdoors handy work around my home. Will do just fine for me. Thank you for the 2 comparisons. Great video. Really great.😊
Thanks for this! First time home owner with a ton of things that need to be done, so this super helpful!
Yes you do ! New concrete is far easier to dril than many years old concrete. Many other factors come into play as well.
Make a video then.
Some old concrete that was poured back in the 20th century simply can't be drilled with a regular drill, especially larger holes. It has to do with the amount of crystalization within the concrete. New concrete that was made with high water content and allowed to dry very fast has lower crystalization and is more like styrofoam compared to old concrete. The concrete in this video looks newer and 'builder grade' (cheap and fast).
It depends on the concrete. If it's fresh concrete with lots of sand and no gravel, then it can be relatively easy to drill through. If it's decades-old concrete with lots of gravel then you'll want a hammer drill.
That's the best reason for a hammer drill, getting through rocks in the concrete without problems like the hole getting huge or having to stop to break each rock by hand.
Buying a good DeWalt SDS hammer drill was one of the great purchases of my entire idiotic tool collecting life. It all depends on how many holes you need to drill, how big the holes are, and how hard the concrete or stone is. I have drilled probably thousands of holes in masonry. You can definitely just use a regular drill with a good sharp masonry tool bit. Slow and dreary but it does work. The next step up is the basic hammer drill. They are a bit faster but also super loud and vibrate like you can hardly hold on to them. I wore out a really nice Bosch corded hammer drill so ended up buying this very sweet cordless DeWalt SDS rotary hammer. Cordless I say! OMG so fast, a fraction of the vibration, so much quieter you can actually not use ear protection, I am not kidding. Also it will just a hammer, miniature jackhammer which is fantastic. Constructed walls in my basement had to drill about 50 holes into very old concrete. It was a real true pleasure using this new drill. If you just need to drill a few holes on one random project then yeah go ahead and buy masonry drill bit and have at it. I can give you about 20 of em I don't need the cursed things I have all SDS kit now.
Thanks for the insight!
A lot of common sense here. Very nice video. For old concrete an SDS type drill is better than a hammer drill. A single cordless combo drill (drill. screw, hammer) would get most things done around the house if you only want one tool. If you do a lot of heavier duty work in concrete or a big renovation a regular drill/screw driver paired an SDS drill (with a chisel function) could be a good alternative option.
For big holes, and a lot, you need a powerful hammer drill that takes SDS drill bits.
I used to do with a cordless no hammer drill for convenience, and now I’m straight getting an extra wired hammer drill. It does the work in seconds instead of minutes, and my neighbors prefer a short burst than a long wiring sound
Thank you so much, so very helpful, especially when you do your own DIY.❤
Thank you for your video. For us newbies, it'd be really helpful if you shared what setting you have the drill(s) at. Which gear and which torque.
If you're mounting a plate with multiple holes, use the plate as a jig to start the holes in correct orientation to each other after getting at least one accurately started by eye, marker and/or punch.
I came to look on how to drill into concrete because I am fixing my porch that has some loose decorative posting. I am only 105 lb lady, and I will try with my electric screw driver. I am afraid it may not work for me. I have to go get the masonry bit. I am hoping for the best since my holes are fairly small. The house former owner never secured these things, and they are a hazard. Thanks for the instructions!
im gonna try this on my brick for a ring video doorbell. wish me luck!
Thanks for that side by side comparison. Good to know!
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent job on this video! Very helpful.
Quality bits are a must! Thanks
Yes, they definitely help!
Thanks for using the same model of drill i am looking to use. Lots of experience using sds and rotary hammer tools, but this job is independent and required only what i own. I know i can kill (3) 3/8" anchors at 3" dewp with my tool and not kill it
Purchasing cheap off brand sds+ rotary hammer drill is never bad idea.
Cheapest rotary hammer is infinitely more productive than hammer drill.
You have to put a lot of pressure to do anything with it and it will quickly wear out your drill and drill bit.
@@Georgggg the job went poorly. I spent 2x 5/32 bits to pilot, and 2x 1/4 bits to size the hole. Burnt, blued and destroyed all 4 bits. 5/16 x 2-1/4Tapcons failed, driver was stripping the heads off before they made it 1/4 depth. Went back for wedge anchors 1/4 x 2-1/4 and they performed.
Yeah... I was really missing the Bosch bulldog, or the DeWalt battery SDS, that I've used with other contractors... Rough day!!!
@@Georgggg to all readers: the harbor freight sds hammer would have been worthwhile for the labor I put in to the DeWalt drill with a 4ah battery
Was drilling holes for a gate lock into concrete. Took me 20 minutes with a drill for a 1 inch deep hole. Then my neighbor came over with his hammer drill. 2nd hole took me 2 minutes.
so first thing, i have a tight budget for hammer drill and im currently only using just regular drill...so with various of other comments here...well i personally think choose the tools that can be supported by ur budget..anyway the videos really did helped me to drill through concrete walls with regular drill and masonry bits...maybe in the future if my budget allow ill equip a new hammer drill soon...thanks
1. It is not really easy to drill to concrete WITHOUT the hammer function specially when drilling holes to the wall or concrete soffits. Try "applying" your own weight on those.
2. Forcing your cordless drill to this concrete, and then doing it several times, will wear down your battery even faster which will require you to charge more often. It is interesting to see how many holes the cordless drill without the hammer function can finish with one charge(considering the battery capacity, of course)
3. It is also interesting to know that hammer drills will make your work faster and more efficient in this kind of situation.
The hammer function is designed to some drills, corded or cordless, for a reason.
Sure the non-hammer drills will get the job done as seen in the video. But if you want efficiency(specially if you are drilling a lot of hiles on concrete), you may want to consider affording a hammer drill.
It is not that you don't need a hammer drill per se.
But it is about considering the right tools for the right job.
Right, you don't need a hammer drill if you consider your drill to be 'disposable'😂
Exactly. If I had less than two holes to drill and no hammer drill, I'd proceed carefully, cooling the bit frequently and using the bit as a chisel to break any rocks encountered by hand. If I had more holes than that to drill, I'd stop and get the right tool.
I have listened to this guy do presentations on how to start a businesses!
Were you on the recent webinar?
@@StayHandy fortunately, I signed up, but the link went to the wife and I missed it so, I listened to it after the fact.
If yout using expanding anchors it doesn't matter what kind of drill but if your using tapcons your less likely to wallow out the hole with a hammer drill and the screws will hold better. Also if your not using a hammer drill your goi g to wear out the drill bit faster.
Thanks for the additional perspective, Chris!
Thank you so much for sharing this. I only need to drill a couple holes to install a handrail and didn’t feel like purchasing a hammer drill.
You're welcome!
I have drilled concrete with a regular drill and masonry bit and it's not fun. What takes minutes can be done in seconds with a hammer drill. Worth the investment.
Thanks for your thoughts.
You can drill a hole with out the hammer function however u will need to replace your bits quite often because the bit will overheat even while spraying water
I was drilling holes into concrete last weekend and found the drill bit going blunt after the first hole a problem as I needed to drill 8 holes I was using a 5/16 masonry drill bit
Thanks for this video, I was looking for something like this a while back and this would have helped. It helps now!
Glad to hear it!
if you are on a budget then what I would recommend is to buy a corded hammer drill. its not that expensive compared to a regular corded non hammer drill but makes a huge difference in my opinion because you cant always use your body weight in every situation. sometimes I drill way high up or in weird places where I cant use much of my body weight. And obviously if you are drilling multiple holes, you'll feel tired because you are also doing some of the work which the tool is not doing. Also bits gets duller quicker and less effective without a hammering action.
if your home is made using bricks and concrete then I suggest leaning towards a bigger rotary SDS type drill because those things works super well. They have much slower RPMs but the actual hammer effect is way higher. Since they spin slowly and have a better impact, the bits will last much longer as well. However these drills will use a different type of drill bits which you can slide in and you cant use other drill bits for example when drilling wood or metal without an adaptor. Most SDS drills will come with this adaptor but I think you can buy separately too. with most SDS type drills you can also select what you wanna do. you can just use the rotary action or just the hammer action or both at once. great if you wanna break up tile or small stuff like that.
if you got the money then what I recommend is to get a cordless normal drill + a SDS drill. owning just ONE drill is not that ideal because lets say you just got the SDS drill, then if you wanna drill metal or wood you have to use an adapter, then another drill bit. but if you got a cordless one too, then you can use that for wood or metal. I think all cordless drills comes with a keyless chuck so its easy to switch bits too.
another advice is you can rent and see before you actually buy the tool. just rent both drills and use em for a while and see the difference and see for yourself if paying more is better. In my case I own couple of normal drills and a corded hammer drill. When I need to drill a lot of holes I just rent a SDS drill. For now I don't have that many use cases to own one.
Good luck at my house with that. My grandpa used the same concrete for the foundation and cellar walls that he used to build bunkers with during WW2. Even when using a hammer drill and good Hilti bits, the concrete sometimes just turns white. When you manage to finally drill the hole, the bit is relatively fcked. xD
I have a Ryobi 18 V drill, with a masonry drill bit on I just bought, and it only goes in about an inch and a half then I get nowhere. I need to go 2 1/2 inches into the foundation of my house to secure a board. I think the bits I have a garbage that I bought at Home Depot
If you want to drill into concrete effortlessly. Get a Bosch Bulldog. You can find a brand new one for $145 if you look around. It will last you for years to come and has many uses. It is a rotary hammer so you can drill, drill and hammer or just hammer. Hammer only allows you to bust out stucco or concrete. It's like a mini jackhammer. You can use it to remove tile. It uses SDS bits so they lock in and don't fall out. You can use an adapter that will allow you to use regular drill bits if need be.
Agreed, I have a Bosch hammer drill and use the special locking bits. It's the ONLY answer for making holes in precast concrete panels which are the preferred format for building in Europe. The Bosch is the only machine which can zap into this material and I would have been lost without it for every serious installation when I moved here in Vienna six years ago.
Good luck with that. Even though I use SDS once every other year I have never regreted spending that money.
Dan, thanks for your instructional video. Really appreciate it. Can you also share what anchor (including picture) would use for a 6" thick cement deck for a storage shed in the back yard. Any feed back appreciated.
I'm a DIY person and I noticed that my cordless and good drill bits just better than I remember vs 15 years ago. I think it has something to do with cordless being stronger and modern drill bits a lot better than back in the day. still, I prefer the hammer mode as without it the job is slower and a cheap drill bit becomes too hot or dull.
Makes sense
I have a fish pond with 2 closed off concrete walls on the side that trap rain water. I was gonna get a saw but I think I can makensome drainage holes now with the right drill bit. Thank you! Hopefully this saved me some fundsol
Go for it!
Thank you! this helps a bunch.
I thought I knew how to drill into concrete until one day I was drilling into something not even the hammer drill would do any good on so I bought a rotary hammer drill and omg it was like a hot knife through butter. In fact, I had to hold it back a bit.
Oh wow. Was it older concrete?
@@StayHandy it was the floor of a house about 30 to 40 years old.
is a rotary hammer drill different than hammer drill? looking to buy something to drill easily into concrete/cement. thanks
@@SlackersIndustry yes, they are two different things. I've found that the rotary hammer drill can be too fast sometimes and therefore go a bit out of control on some softer concrete and go too deep too fast if I don't hold it back. And I don't use it on brickwork. Mine is a Ryobi 1500watt but you can get smaller and bigger. Good luck with your project.
Try a pneumatic drill! It’s even better than rotary hammer
This is totally contrary to my experience, especially in older concrete. I had a number of holes to drill and couldn’t get more than an eighth of an inch with a regular drill in spite of me putting all my weight behind it (with a new masonry bit). I switched to a hammer drill and it drilled like butter.
Thanks for the insight
Can you do a demo drilling into a concrete wall, at a height of, say, 2 meters? For, say, attaching curtains rails?
Masonary bits are horrible. I only needed to drill two holes in my garage for some garage door sensors. It seems like the bit dulled almost halfway through the first hole that I needed to drill. Had to use so much force and took twice as long as what you demoed with your ordinary drill. Mine was a Ryobi 18volt drill with a heavy-duty lithium battery. Maybe the bits I got from Home Depot were poorly made also by Ryobi.
I also use Bosch multi construction bits. Work really well with battery drill, and much of the time don't need to use hammer function anyway.
It really does depend entirely on the frequency, size, and type of holes you're drilling into what type of masonry that seals the deal for what tool you actually need.
If you're the casual handyman who, on occasion, needs to drill a half inch hole into concrete, brick, mortar, cinder block, etc, the average rotary hammer with a solid masonry bit will work just fine. I wouldn't even blink twice telling someone to who needed to drill two holes for a concrete anchor into a brick to hang a gas cylinder bracket to use a rotary drill, even a cordless one.
If you do any sort of masonry drilling with regularity, of diameters larger than 1/2" into reinforced concrete, bricks, cinder blocks filled with cement, don't waste a second trying to use a regular rotary drill. *Find and buy the largest rotary hammer drill you can, preferably with an SDS or SDS Max chuck with at least 10 amps and 5+ foot pounds of energy and quality SDS bits that is CORDED*
You'll be legitimately shocked how quickly you'll pulverize all the above listed materials. Anyone who has large bore holes to drill on a weekly basis will attest to this. If you worked construction for any length of time and how to augur through masonry, you'd be either let go or laughed off the jobsite using a rotary drill, pressing with all your might trying to get through a single brick while the professional three walls down is slightly leaning into the wall with his rotary hammer drill bulldozing through with ease.
I've actually seen (and done in my amateur days) someone burn through two whole batteries on a cordless drill trying to drill into a cinder block nearly breaking their wrist through the effort. I walked up with the Bosch Bulldog Extreme with the notorious Bosch masonry bits and punched the desired hole length through in, no joke, 30 seconds. He looked at me, then down at his drill, and enough was said...which wasn't anything. In my opinion, Bosch and Makita make the best rotary hammer drills on the market with Bosch making the best SDS and SDS Max bits for said drills. They humiliate and brutalize masonry like it's an annoyance they're in thew way of the tunneling bit. Well worth the money.
You didn't mention any settings on the cordless drill itself.. would have been nice :)
Using the cordless drill, which is more beneficial?...using the gearbox in speed 1, or speed 2?
And as well, which torque setting? My Ridgid has 24 stops and the aforementioned two speed gearbox.
I am drilling 4 holes in concrete porch to install a handicap railing. Thanks.
Same question. I destroyed some drill bits and still don’t know
You have a cordless drill and you want to drill a half inch hole in concrete, first of all it is the wrong tool for the job, not that it cant be done, you can, you will have to put a lot of pressure on the thing, so low speed and maximum tourgh setting. If you are smart you start with a small size hole drill to the needed depth a, go up in size from there, use quality drill bits if it is more that a few holes you will have to make. If the drill gets warm/hot let it rest for a while, read the manual about duty cycle, don't be surprised if you can only drill for 5-10 minutes and then let it rest for 30-60 minutes, you see it is not the best/right tool for the job, sorry.
I LOVE THAT PERGOLA WHAT'S THE BRAND PLEASE?
check the video description
That's fine for big holes where a bit of wallowing out doesn't matter. It's much harder when the holes are small
I haven’t found that to be the case. Maybe your concrete is harder?
That was very informative, thank you. I likes the tip about correcting the position of the hole.
Sometimes it’s a bit hard to put all your weight on the drill, though, like when you’re drilling high on the wall from a ladder, or in the ceiling. Recently I had to drill 6mm holes in the concrete ceiling and even a hammer drill didn’t do the trick, I had to use a rotary hammer.
Makes sense. Thanks for the added perspective.
Do not push at all
Got a cordless hammer drill from Aldi here in England, works great for going into concrete
Try the SDS version and it's way, way faster.
@@typhoontim125 yea that's the one
@@konstantine381 Great...Sds is on another level...and no loosening of the bits...and being from Aldi, incredible value.
Would an impact driver be a better choice over a regular drill?
Hi, please somebody help… Does anyone know if I can bolt a boxing stand frame (200kg/400lbs total weight including bag) on just my concrete tiles? The concrete tiles are standard squares and just lay on top of soil. Hope someone can help. Thanks :)
No
@@user-bj4lp3fr1o can you explain why so I understand?
Install deadbolt align holes
Very beginner question….What setting was used for the cordless power drill? (1v2 and 1-12)
Definitely gear 2 not 1, the latter is for screwing. For the 1-12 if this is your speed setting it's typ. somewhere in between but you have to try. The optimal speed depends on the drill bit and concrete strength. In any case don't overheat the drill bit. Have more and rotate through if it's a big job. Note that 1-12 could also be your max torque setting, then it's the max 12.
You say a hammerdrill is not going to create better quality holes than a regular drill but I beg to differ based on my 18 years in the industry. I appreciate the hack more or less but it is like using a fork over a spoon for cereal. Sure you can use a fork but it isn't optimal. A hammerdrill is much easier and efficient. The biggest discrepancy here is the difference of drilling into fresh concrete as your video shows and drilling into mature concrete, which is not addressed. Hardness is significantly different. Yes, you can use a regular drill in a pinch but you should not rely on it regularly as it is hard on your tools and will cost you more in the long run.
I appreciate your perspective and I think we mostly agree. Here's a question though. What if homeowner only has a couple of wholes to drill and they don't currently own a hammer drill? You think it's worth it for them to buy one?
@@StayHandy I don’t disagree on necessity based on infrequency. Of course it wouldn’t be monetarily justifiable but rather that you don’t have the same quality with both tools as you suggested.
I have been working on a basement remodel of a house built in 1905. The concrete there is extremely hard. There has been no choice other than using a hammer drill or ramset. I also just poured a concrete pad for a shed and it was cake to drill. The application was my main point probably not conveyed well.
I eat my Trix with a knife, ...and they're round.
Great video. Thx!
Just because you CAN do it doesn’t mean you SHOULD. Using a regular drill is better than nothing, but using the proper tool, a rotary hammer drill, is *by far* the best option.
But what if you’re a homeowner who needs to drill two hole in their entire life?
Bro, drilling into a brick wall with a 1/4 inch masonry drill bit using a battery powered drill is so painfully slow it will take less time to drive to rent a hammer drill, drill the holes with the hammer drill, return the hammer drill, and then return home than it would take to use this battery powered drill for these holes. 20 minutes of drilling and I can't even tell if I made any progress. I can't put my weight on it while standing on a ladder the way I could if I was drilling down into the ground. I recommend the hammer drill.
Is the cordless drill put into hammer action or is it set to drilling mode ?
Don't drill too deep, like one of those holes went through, with the depth Guage not shallow enough. Old Navy saw that ... ANCHORS AWAY (do not go down to the bottom, and the mud so deep.. Rrrrr, Love the hammer drill
What drill bit material used - cobalt? - for drilling through brick and concrete. How do I make I nice circular indention that will fit the square part of these bolts just under the head of the bolts? My biggest drill bit won’t so it. Is there a special type of drill bit for this application?
thanks God bless
thanks, very helpful
You're welcome!
If only this would work all the time.
My hammer drill would struggle to drill into my house bricks, in fact it was quicker to go and borrow an impact drill, drill the holes and return the drill.
I work as a handy man and use a cordless impact drill, with integrated dust extraction. Quick clean holes every time.
Note an impact drill, is different to a hammer drill used in this video and uses an SDS bit.
Thanks for the insight.
ok maybe I need to try drilling a smaller hole first. I'm going straight in with a quarter inch and I've got my full weight on it and it feels like the drill isn't going any deeper for minutes of drilling. Those drills you did looked like you were drilling through wood.
It's easy to "put your weight into it" when drilling straight down into a concrete porch or floor. But what if you're drilling horizontally into a masonry wall at roughly 4' to 5' high, where you can't just drop 80+% of your body weight right on top of the drill, and the best you can do is to "lean into it"?
Does ^this still work if you're trying to drill a 1/4" to 3/8" horizontal hole into cement between bricks, where the most weight you can *consistently* apply to the back of the drill is 25lbs - 35lbs?
These drills with hammer flavor are bs.
Hammer function is gimmick, not needed in soft materials like gypsum or bricks, and useless against concrete.
Any cheapest sds+ rotary hammer will win 10 times against them and you don't have to put any weight..
Try this with older inside concrete wall that has been curing for decades. You will drain battery on your aku drill before you get 1cm deep. In the process you will probably burn your drill bit.
If one hits a hard stone inside the concrete while drilling a hole, you better have a hammer drill or your bit will be going nowhere !
I was about to say the same. This is more like cement not a really tough concrete with gravel mixed in. The real problem with gravel mixed in is that you drill will hit it on an angle and if your not deep enough it will start deflecting the bit and making your hole bigger. That can happen even with hammer drill if you using too big of a bit for the size and power of the drill.
The worse thing that can happen to some diy trying to save money this way is a screwed up hole. You now have to find a solution and spend money in the middle of a project and the fact that you don’t have the right tools makes it unlikely that you will know how to fix it either. This is more of a heck for experienced people in a situation where they might need to improvise.
going to need a lot of those batteries.
If using a regular drill for using it on concrete brick what setting should I have on ?
I use a corded hammer drill from Harbor Freight, good.
Nice
In my opinion that larger drill is more closer to a rotary hammer than a hammer drill. The hammer drills I know about are about the same size as the smaller drill in the video with a hammer function
It’s not a rotary hammer drill, but it is probably better than a cordless drill that has a hammer setting on it.
Can you share where did you get your pergola?
Doesn't that 20v Dewalt have a hammer function on it too?
I know mine does.
thanks for the tip!
Sure thing!
do you think this is also doable with an 18 or 14 volt drill?
I have DeWalt DCD796 hammer drill and I am struggling to to drill into the ceiling of my apartment which is made of concrete/cement. Any Tips?
Really nice video. Can you comment on where you got that pergola? That's exactly what I'm looking for. Thank you!.
Great video. But for large jobs and when in astm certified concrete in commercial building a regular drill would take very very long.
It can