There’s a time and place for a fixed blade, but I just don’t find myself reaching for my edc sized fixed blades over a folder unless I’m going outdoors
@@bigglock5478 I carry fixed blades a few times a week but am embarrassed to pull them out in an office setting. Don’t wanna look like a wannabe, even though everyone knows about my channel.
I sometimes carry a fixed blade of my making because of the comfort of the handle. If a pocket fixed blade doesn't have a comfortable handle I can see no point in it.
I'm astonished at how much content you are putting out, without any of it feeling like fluff! Excellent stuff! I would like to hear about the handles more because the only reason I would carry a pocket fixed blade is for the extra comfort in hand.
Thanks for the compliment! Means a lot to me coming from you guys! I think the MagnaCut story is not being told in the clearest of ways! The perception that it is a universal steel is not wrong, but the industry isn’t being clear in how this should be interpreted: It’s a fine-tunable steel that can, through heat treatment process, be adjusted for multiple roles. Which is great, as long as the consumer understands that each blade is tuned to a specific role at the expense of other properties. It’s intended, by design, to be a knife maker’s steel, to allow him choose that role when creating a blade designed for a very specific purpose. I need to make a video about this, but not sure how to represent it best. If one was designing a salt water blade, then the edge retention may need be sacrificed. If it’s a small EDC blade, perhaps corrosion resistance can be reduced in order to bump up the edge retention and toughness. It offers using one steel as opposed to selecting LC200N vs. CruWear vs. S90V based on the specific blade’s niche. What are your thoughts and do you see value in this type of content?
@@CuttingBoardRx a LOT of value in steel discussion. My go too is S45 VN purely because it has never let me down personally, then there is D2 :). Same story…
@@theeverydaycarrycollective 100% with ya on S45VN! You may enjoy this video: Chris Reeve Knife vs. Coconut… Will CRK survive? ua-cam.com/video/LylcYq8eBRk/v-deo.html
@@theeverydaycarrycollective i really wish there were more options in K390 as all the greatest knife steel nerds love it. Is Spyderco somehow the only mfr who can get it?
You're the man! Thanks so much for the thorough testing! I got one of those HRC hardness testers, I think it is the same electronics as the one you have just a little different button layout / case. The only pocket knife in my collection that was above 60 HRC was an old Benchmade 940 Osborne in S90V, which came in at 62 HRC. But I'm not anxious to buy another Benchmade any time soon... their prices are just getting too ridiculous vs. the competition. Keep up the great work!
I have the same gen 3 you show here and the plates that come with it do the job. That being said I also got that extra plate set he has & it's the same quality, just more options of grits. I purchased the TSPROF Diamond plates 150, 220, 400, 600, 1000 grits and they have metal backing plates so you get a flat edge. I found the plastic backed plates actually bend when on the holder bar, ever so slightly & that results in an apex bevel. Which is fine, if that's what you're after. The clamps on the sharpener work fine & for shorter blades I put both clamps on one side for stability & attempting to get the center of the blade centered to the sharpener. Depending on the shape of the spine, flat, radiused etc etc a single clamp may be all that's needed or possible. Overall I'm very happy with the Gen 3 sharpener & the TSPROF plates. I'll be looking at Atoma or Jende plates in the future for their performance & longevity. When I saw you batoning that wood, I wondered how many times I would have hit my knuckles. Then, later in the video I saw skinned knuckles 🤔 hmm. I got some weird 'artifacts' the 1st time I used this system. scratch patterns above the bevel, away from where the plates contact the edge. LOTS of them. You don't see them appearing until it's too late. Care to see pics? I can email a couple over & test out that big brain ya got. lol
I got a pretty clean one in S90V. After watching your vid, I was inspired to clip mine to the inside of my daily pack. BTW what’s your take on using Ceracote on stainless blades, is it a cop out to avoid finishing the blade, or do most people actually want it?
@@enwin1912 I’m firmly against any coating on stainless steels! If it requires the blade to be subjected to coating process at temperatures above 170°C, then it should be viewed as an additional tempering stage. But manufacturers rarely make corresponding changes to the heat treat process. Problem with that? Reduced hardness and edge retention.
@@CuttingBoardRxThat’s wild, never imagined that there was an extra heating process involved. Makes even less sense. Thanks for the reply and explanation!💯
All my life I used folding knives. as EDC, but 2 months ago I started using small fixed blades as EDC. No pivot and full tang give me more strength and no bearings or washers means less maintenance. Also faster to deploy. I use them inside my pocket with ult clip and this way is very discrete. 14c28, 154cm and D2 steels, for my kind of use, work pretty well. No need to spend more money in super steels.
@luisnouel4268 14c28n is a great all-round tough steel for the price-- but i think it could be treated to ~62 HRC and still be quite tough for most applications, but it seems to be usually at 58-60 as i guess that is what makers feel "safe" with?
I've bought a couple of the Chinese fixed angle sharpener but found that when you turn the knife over to sharpen the other side the angle changed by 1.5 to 2 degrees. I had to re-adjust the angle each time. After about 6 months of this I purchase a Haostone RS. It is much better although there is still a 0.1 to 0.2 degree difference when rotating the blade. I have been wanting to try a knife with Magnacu steel but haven't made the jump yet. I thinking of buying a set of Warther Cutlerly kitchen knives in Magnacut steel.
@@arizflash Check out my new video that was posted today and go through whichever steps may be applicable to your sharpeners. I’m about to start filming the next episode and will be checking the difference on mine. But that was also a problem on both of my WSPA and I had to use adjustable supports to address that. It’s in this playlist Using Work Sharp Precision Adjust Tools on the Next Level to get More Than You Paid For. ua-cam.com/play/PLQk7wjytAnykFremIu9qHPgOi5gRZz8Xk.html
Thanks for the link. I considered the WorkSharp Precision Adjust but didn't like the 4" stones. I already had a Lansky and didn't like the short narrow stones. I gave it my son along with 10 or so folding knives I had. One year later he still hasn't used it. Let me know if you want the RuxinPro sharpener I can send it to you. The other one does okay and I keep it.
Ursus Cub definitely worth checking out! HRC is advertised 62-63 and I have absolutely no reason to doubt that number! WRK takes hardness, their reputation and us, knife nerd seriously. Any chance they buy out Benchmade? 😂
I’m new to your content so if you already checked these out sorry, but White River makes the FC3.5 also in magnacut or the Work Tuff Gear lynx. You should check those small fixed blades out. They are in my non-expert opinion in the same category
@@macdud85 I own an FC4 in S35VN and was on the fence about which to choose 3.5 vs. 4. Now I’m happy about the choice: In a scenario when a friction fire is the goal, the backpacker and FC4 or FC5, to me, represent the best combination of capabilities: use the larger one to harvest and shape the wood, small one to make the hole and the V-notch in the anvil, then use the large one as the drill top. Thoughts? And thanks for subscribing!
@@CuttingBoardRx well it seemed by your video the M1 was super close to what you were looking for but not quite the perfect knife. I was offering alternatives that I think had potential to be your perfect knife to replace the role of your M1. The FC3.5 comes with a fire steel notch so you won’t have to grind your knife and you can find versions in magnacut, probably heat treated the same or close to the M1 because it’s the same company. Sheath still not as good. If you don’t like the FC3.5 the Lynx from Work Tuff Gear is a similar blade shape as the M1 but with a sharp 90° spin for striking ferro rods. The handle is shorter but has fatter scales. The sheath is way better IMO. On top of that the Lynx is $20-$50 cheaper than the M1 and FC3.5. Again I’m no expert
@MantisTobaggan84 it’s a $300 MSRP! It’s more expensive than a Benchmade Dacian! Are they nuts?! Congrats if you can afford it! And I’m happy to hear that Dr. Thomas’s visit to Buck wasn’t wasted.
I do not own any knives with Magnacut steel. I have made as many as 80 fixed blades in the past nine years for my own pleasure. I've got one pocket carry in a kydex sheath with Ulti Clip and carried it once and didn't care for the experience. I much prefer belt carry (cross draw and canted) for ease of use. I find that 01 tool steel and CPM154 @ 61-62 HRC fitting for my usage. I much prefer my CRK large Inkosi with S45vn for pocket carry. I'm not a fan of removable handle covers just for the reason you stated (debris getting between steel and covers) so that is why I epoxy my scales and use stainless corby bolts. This was a good review and you were straight up about it. I appreciate that you're not selling us on anything. A review of the sharpener would be nice. Thank you sir!
@@kandcdish 100% with you on the Inkosi! I have that one myself and it rocks! Check this video out: Chris Reeve Knife vs. Coconut… Will CRK survive? ua-cam.com/video/LylcYq8eBRk/v-deo.html I have to say: 154 steel is best suited for thicker blades with plenty thickness behind the edge. Thinner blades? CPM 3V. MagnaCut is basically CruWear with much improved corrosion resistance. Thanks for subscribing!
I think it makes sense and you might enjoy testing the Exodus Knife & Tool Adventurecraft, also made by White River. In my experience the longer slimmer blade makes for an excellent multi-use knife, over the wider more leaf-shaped blades.
Great content! I have been looking at several guided sharpener systems lately. I have an older Wicked edge system that works good but I will need replacement stone sets soon. The Xrilk looks interesting because it looks like you have a lot of options on stone manufacture choices. Also I'll be interested to see how the single clamp on the Xrilk works on small folding knife blades( 3" range) as the single clamp will have to be positioned off center when sharpening. Looking forward to your series on this system.
I have the same gen 3 he shows here and the plates that come with it do the job. That being said I also got that extra plate set he has & it's the same quality, just more options of grits. I purchased the TSPROF Diamond plates 150, 220, 400, 600, 1000 grits and they have metal backing plates so you get a flat edge. I found the plastic backed plates actually bend a little when on the holder bar, ever so slightly & that results in an apex bevel. Which is fine, if that's what you're after. The clamps on the sharpener work fine & for shorter blades I put both clamps on one side for stability & attempting to get the center of the blade centered to the sharpener. Depending on the shape of the spine, flat, radiused etc etc a single clamp may be all that's needed or possible. Overall I'm very happy with the Gen 3 sharpener & the TSPROF plates. I'll be looking at Atoma or Jende plates in the future for their performance & longevity. Hope all my blabbering helped. Cheers
I have a pocket fixed blade that has taken over my pocket knife carrying lately, its the Griffin knives X series. Its a 3inch deeply hollow ground Magnacut drop point blade with a kydex sheathe with an ITP clip for the pocket carry and it costsd me like 230$ Not including the spare scale I purchased along with it. Honestly small fixed blades can be really nice and stress free tools, I really love mine it looks and feels great. There's no fidgety stuff obviously and my specific knife isn't really a camp fixed blade and I use my hatchet for splitting anyway so I never baton wood with knives so I don't grade my fixed blades on that ability. The deep hollow grind on my everyday knife would likely fail horrendously since it isn't a very robust grind at all compared to flat or saber/scandi grinds ect.
Well, if you’re an expert with a hatchet, more power to ya! But if I was to make a recommendation to a less experienced woodcrafter, I would recommend carrying a 7” folding saw and a 4”-6” camp knife. The weight savings would be worth the swap and they would be a lot safer with minimal training. Hatchet is the right tool but harder to learn, build muscle memory, grow calluses and use in a limited light environment and without a convenient flat surface for an anvil. I have a not so popular video about that dating back a couple of years. Thanks for a great comment and hope you are a subscriber!
@@CuttingBoardRx Subbed. Actually yes it's true about the folding saw! I have one called a Silky Gomboy and in the last few years my folding saw may have more use than my fixed blade and hatchet combined!
I hope you saw the very end of this video. I don’t mind thicker BTE geometry bc sharpening is fun! I have once got a Medford Infraction to cut a cigarette tube vertically in half. That was a 6-hour job and ended up looking like a scandi grind lol. An off course, I have a video about it…
Right now, I'm debating between the WRK M1/Backpacker or a Tactile Knives Dreadeye for my next small fixed blade. Both seem to be heat treating their Magnacut properly from what I've read.
I’ll throw Boker vs. Wild into the mix and Boker Lucas Burnley for a more compact option. Both are in MagnaCut at 62+ HRC, German-made and reasonably priced. $165 and $93 respectively. Knife center has both. Lmk what you think.
@CuttingBoardRx Thanks for the suggestions! I'm unfortunately limited to 3" or less blades for actual carry by state law (I'm looking for an EDC fixed blade) so the vs Wild would be out for me. Right now I have an ESEE Izula (S35VN) and Asher Little Buddy (3V) in the rotation. Also have a Kansept Korvid S (S35VN) and Kizer Smolt (154CM) on the way. So no shortage of options, ha, just always looking for another great knife.
@@DanMatheny-sl7xk I only see them in CPM 3V for $69, which happens to be my favorite fixed blade steel because it is probably the toughest steel when thin geometry is needed. 10V has the edge retention that can’t be beat by most steels
Just purchased a Demko AD 20.5 in 3V. “Strongest folding lock” with the “toughest” powder metallurgy steel, can’t wait to drive this blade hard. Love your content and authenticity, don’t ever stop.
@ShoahBiz No bud. That's where the steel should be. It loses zero toughness. I think you are just used to seeing production companies running it soft. That's why you see them stopping to put what the hrc is. The absolute lowest it should be is 64 but you will see you tubers accepting 63 but they know it can be way better. All your custom Megnacut blades will be around 65
@@experienceprecision5406 magnacut sees a steep loss of toughness above 63….its right in the graph. Quit lying and talking out of your ass. Magnacut will chip at 67 with any real world use.
@@experienceprecision5406 magnacut at 67 will have way less toughness while still only having edge holding like s30v at 60ish. Keep talking out of your ass tho
@@mel87123 I totally blanked out: was on a little hike with my beautiful fiancé and was so eager to impress her with my cutting prowess that I used the knife before filming it cut.
White river is phenomenal as far as quality, fit and finish, as well as value considering it’s 100% USA made. A bit of a side note regarding White River being an outdoor company and this knife not being ferro rod ready. I think this knife is more geared towards the EDC crowd since they already have an entire line of knives for the outdoor/bushcraft folks, which is their FireCraft line. All of those knives have a designated and sharpened divot specifically for ferro rods and are similar to the one you added here. Anyways as always great info and video, I’m glad to see they did magnacut right!
@@poncho151 I happen to have FC4 in S35VN. It’s at 58-59 HRC, which means they are on the waaaay lower side of heat treatment there. That maybe due to a prevalent opinion out there that impact toughness is the key property for a survival blade. I don’t agree, especially when it comes to the S30, 35 and 45 steel family. I think we are victims of the mono dimensional way Crucible determines toughness - through the impact testing. Bending strength should be the way to evaluate blades of 4” and longer. Bending to impact strength is not a linear correlation and there are serious variations between CPM steels. When buying S30,35,45 we are paying for the best balance between bending strength and impact strength but at 58-59 HRC we’re getting pretty much a 440C performance with slightly better corrosion resistance. Just my 10 cents.
Of course, Rockwell hardness above 60 is not important in everyday use. This sort of testing is a thrill for knife bros, but means nothing to practical people. A Mora or a Condor that costs $30 is going to serve every purpose that these knives serve. I carry fixed every day. Some hardness abstraction has never entered my mind during use. So if you're a knife bro, go ahead and spend more than you need for a knife. If you want a knife that works every time you need it, you can trust a minimalist, a Mora, a low-cost Biker - you name it. Don't pay too much for a knife. And if you're a knife bro, shouldn't you be making your own?
@@deeacosta2734 What in the world are you talking about?! 61.4 HRC on that MKM and I tested another MKM and LIONSTEEL above 62. You are just repeating what couple of morons (like rushlambo) said about. Stop perpetuating bs. I have a video where I test 9 MC blades ant the Italians are in top 4
What do you all think about the pocket fixed blade knives? Are we being sold a line or is it a fun trend? All comments are welcome!
I still prefer a folding knife in the pocket. If I need a fixed blade, it'll be on my belt and at least 5 inches of blade length.
There’s a time and place for a fixed blade, but I just don’t find myself reaching for my edc sized fixed blades over a folder unless I’m going outdoors
@@matthewf1979 For me, a 4-5 inch blades are big enough for whatever Im willing to tackle on an outing!
@@bigglock5478 I carry fixed blades a few times a week but am embarrassed to pull them out in an office setting. Don’t wanna look like a wannabe, even though everyone knows about my channel.
I sometimes carry a fixed blade of my making because of the comfort of the handle. If a pocket fixed blade doesn't have a comfortable handle I can see no point in it.
I'm astonished at how much content you are putting out, without any of it feeling like fluff! Excellent stuff!
I would like to hear about the handles more because the only reason I would carry a pocket fixed blade is for the extra comfort in hand.
Aha! Will take your suggestion to heart! Thanks!
Just call me a Magnaslut and a SypderHo!
@@deeacosta2734 in fact, Spyderco salt MagnaCut is between 58.5 and 60.5 HRC. Just watch the darn video
Me too brother 😅
@@DuhYaThink 🙏
@@CuttingBoardRx oof is it really that soft? watching vid now
@@CuttingBoardRx I did you showed it was the best magnacut.
Love your reviews - Thanks again!
Insightful video. Our customers appear to have a preference for Magnacut just because at times. As you say, HT is everything!
Thanks for the compliment! Means a lot to me coming from you guys!
I think the MagnaCut story is not being told in the clearest of ways! The perception that it is a universal steel is not wrong, but the industry isn’t being clear in how this should be interpreted:
It’s a fine-tunable steel that can, through heat treatment process, be adjusted for multiple roles. Which is great, as long as the consumer understands that each blade is tuned to a specific role at the expense of other properties.
It’s intended, by design, to be a knife maker’s steel, to allow him choose that role when creating a blade designed for a very specific purpose. I need to make a video about this, but not sure how to represent it best.
If one was designing a salt water blade, then the edge retention may need be sacrificed. If it’s a small EDC blade, perhaps corrosion resistance can be reduced in order to bump up the edge retention and toughness. It offers using one steel as opposed to selecting LC200N vs. CruWear vs. S90V based on the specific blade’s niche.
What are your thoughts and do you see value in this type of content?
@@CuttingBoardRx a LOT of value in steel discussion. My go too is S45 VN purely because it has never let me down personally, then there is D2 :). Same story…
@@theeverydaycarrycollective 100% with ya on S45VN! You may enjoy this video:
Chris Reeve Knife vs. Coconut… Will CRK survive?
ua-cam.com/video/LylcYq8eBRk/v-deo.html
@@theeverydaycarrycollective i really wish there were more options in K390 as all the greatest knife steel nerds love it. Is Spyderco somehow the only mfr who can get it?
@@kaizen5023 no XP with K390, but yes to microtech M390. I have had a couple of MT’s over the years and they performed really well with that steel!
You're the man! Thanks so much for the thorough testing! I got one of those HRC hardness testers, I think it is the same electronics as the one you have just a little different button layout / case. The only pocket knife in my collection that was above 60 HRC was an old Benchmade 940 Osborne in S90V, which came in at 62 HRC. But I'm not anxious to buy another Benchmade any time soon... their prices are just getting too ridiculous vs. the competition. Keep up the great work!
@@kaizen5023 Thank you, I will
I have the same gen 3 you show here and the plates that come with it do the job. That being said I also got that extra plate set he has & it's the same quality, just more options of grits. I purchased the TSPROF Diamond plates 150, 220, 400, 600, 1000 grits and they have metal backing plates so you get a flat edge. I found the plastic backed plates actually bend when on the holder bar, ever so slightly & that results in an apex bevel. Which is fine, if that's what you're after.
The clamps on the sharpener work fine & for shorter blades I put both clamps on one side for stability & attempting to get the center of the blade centered to the sharpener. Depending on the shape of the spine, flat, radiused etc etc a single clamp may be all that's needed or possible.
Overall I'm very happy with the Gen 3 sharpener & the TSPROF plates. I'll be looking at Atoma or Jende plates in the future for their performance & longevity.
When I saw you batoning that wood, I wondered how many times I would have hit my knuckles. Then, later in the video I saw skinned knuckles 🤔 hmm.
I got some weird 'artifacts' the 1st time I used this system. scratch patterns above the bevel, away from where the plates contact the edge. LOTS of them. You don't see them appearing until it's too late. Care to see pics? I can email a couple over & test out that big brain ya got. lol
I appreciate your thorough comment. Please watch the video I’m going to post soon going over the XARILK Gen 3 sharpener.
I got a pretty clean one in S90V. After watching your vid, I was inspired to clip mine to the inside of my daily pack. BTW what’s your take on using Ceracote on stainless blades, is it a cop out to avoid finishing the blade, or do most people actually want it?
@@enwin1912 I’m firmly against any coating on stainless steels! If it requires the blade to be subjected to coating process at temperatures above 170°C, then it should be viewed as an additional tempering stage. But manufacturers rarely make corresponding changes to the heat treat process. Problem with that? Reduced hardness and edge retention.
@@CuttingBoardRxThat’s wild, never imagined that there was an extra heating process involved. Makes even less sense. Thanks for the reply and explanation!💯
All my life I used folding knives. as EDC, but 2 months ago I started using small fixed blades as EDC. No pivot and full tang give me more strength and no bearings or washers means less maintenance. Also faster to deploy.
I use them inside my pocket with ult clip and this way is very discrete.
14c28, 154cm and D2 steels, for my kind of use, work pretty well. No need to spend more money in super steels.
@@luisnouel4268I would say the steel matters less than the blade geometry and sheath quality in the fixed blade realm.
@luisnouel4268 14c28n is a great all-round tough steel for the price-- but i think it could be treated to ~62 HRC and still be quite tough for most applications, but it seems to be usually at 58-60 as i guess that is what makers feel "safe" with?
I carry a Bradford Guardian 3 Magnacut fixt blade in my pocket or scout and I've been very happy with it.
@@BenCase88 Aren’t they more expensive than the WRK? Almost the same knife too. I wonder if WRK makes the blades for Guardian like they do for ESEE.
@@CuttingBoardRx I will have to do some research about that.
I’ve been looking at the guardian 3.5 sheepsfoot style blade
I've bought a couple of the Chinese fixed angle sharpener but found that when you turn the knife over to sharpen the other side the angle changed by 1.5 to 2 degrees. I had to re-adjust the angle each time. After about 6 months of this I purchase a Haostone RS. It is much better although there is still a 0.1 to 0.2 degree difference when rotating the blade.
I have been wanting to try a knife with Magnacu steel but haven't made the jump yet. I thinking of buying a set of Warther Cutlerly kitchen knives in Magnacut steel.
Do you still have the Chinese ones?
@@CuttingBoardRx Yes I still have them.
@@arizflash Check out my new video that was posted today and go through whichever steps may be applicable to your sharpeners. I’m about to start filming the next episode and will be checking the difference on mine. But that was also a problem on both of my WSPA and I had to use adjustable supports to address that. It’s in this playlist
Using Work Sharp Precision Adjust Tools on the Next Level to get More Than You Paid For.
ua-cam.com/play/PLQk7wjytAnykFremIu9qHPgOi5gRZz8Xk.html
Thanks for the link.
I considered the WorkSharp Precision Adjust but didn't like the 4" stones. I already had a Lansky and didn't like the short narrow stones. I gave it my son along with 10 or so folding knives I had. One year later he still hasn't used it.
Let me know if you want the RuxinPro sharpener I can send it to you. The other one does okay and I keep it.
this is absolutely WILD! and even that price is excellent! I have a Magnacut Ursa Cub..not sure what the HRC is for that one.
Ursus Cub definitely worth checking out! HRC is advertised 62-63 and I have absolutely no reason to doubt that number! WRK takes hardness, their reputation and us, knife nerd seriously. Any chance they buy out Benchmade? 😂
Great Video!
I’m new to your content so if you already checked these out sorry, but White River makes the FC3.5 also in magnacut or the Work Tuff Gear lynx. You should check those small fixed blades out. They are in my non-expert opinion in the same category
@@macdud85 I own an FC4 in S35VN and was on the fence about which to choose 3.5 vs. 4. Now I’m happy about the choice: In a scenario when a friction fire is the goal, the backpacker and FC4 or FC5, to me, represent the best combination of capabilities: use the larger one to harvest and shape the wood, small one to make the hole and the V-notch in the anvil, then use the large one as the drill top.
Thoughts?
And thanks for subscribing!
@@CuttingBoardRx well it seemed by your video the M1 was super close to what you were looking for but not quite the perfect knife. I was offering alternatives that I think had potential to be your perfect knife to replace the role of your M1. The FC3.5 comes with a fire steel notch so you won’t have to grind your knife and you can find versions in magnacut, probably heat treated the same or close to the M1 because it’s the same company. Sheath still not as good. If you don’t like the FC3.5 the Lynx from Work Tuff Gear is a similar blade shape as the M1 but with a sharp 90° spin for striking ferro rods. The handle is shorter but has fatter scales. The sheath is way better IMO. On top of that the Lynx is $20-$50 cheaper than the M1 and FC3.5. Again I’m no expert
My Buck 664 in magnacut has an HRC of 63.6. I just tested it at work.
@MantisTobaggan84 it’s a $300 MSRP! It’s more expensive than a Benchmade Dacian! Are they nuts?!
Congrats if you can afford it! And I’m happy to hear that Dr. Thomas’s visit to Buck wasn’t wasted.
@@CuttingBoardRx I know someone who works at the factory so I got a really good deal. I only paid $150. But yes, I do believe they are nuts lol
I do not own any knives with Magnacut steel. I have made as many as 80 fixed blades in the past nine years for my own pleasure. I've got one pocket carry in a kydex sheath with Ulti Clip and carried it once and didn't care for the experience. I much prefer belt carry (cross draw and canted) for ease of use. I find that 01 tool steel and CPM154 @ 61-62 HRC fitting for my usage. I much prefer my CRK large Inkosi with S45vn for pocket carry. I'm not a fan of removable handle covers just for the reason you stated (debris getting between steel and covers) so that is why I epoxy my scales and use stainless corby bolts. This was a good review and you were straight up about it. I appreciate that you're not selling us on anything. A review of the sharpener would be nice. Thank you sir!
@@kandcdish 100% with you on the Inkosi! I have that one myself and it rocks! Check this video out: Chris Reeve Knife vs. Coconut… Will CRK survive?
ua-cam.com/video/LylcYq8eBRk/v-deo.html
I have to say: 154 steel is best suited for thicker blades with plenty thickness behind the edge. Thinner blades? CPM 3V. MagnaCut is basically CruWear with much improved corrosion resistance.
Thanks for subscribing!
@@CuttingBoardRx Thanks so much for sharing this with me. I've got 3 CRK inkosi's and believe the quality is top notch.
Definitely being sold a fun trend
@@OSK352 I know. I wish the reduced cost of making a fixed blade knife, as compared to folders, would translate into much much lower prices!
Good review. Is White River the company that makes the Ursus?
Yep. I have not snatched one up though
@@CuttingBoardRx Thank you.
I think it makes sense and you might enjoy testing the Exodus Knife & Tool Adventurecraft, also made by White River. In my experience the longer slimmer blade makes for an excellent multi-use knife, over the wider more leaf-shaped blades.
Great content! I have been looking at several guided sharpener systems lately. I have an older Wicked edge system that works good but I will need replacement stone sets soon. The Xrilk looks interesting because it looks like you have a lot of options on stone manufacture choices. Also I'll be interested to see how the single clamp on the Xrilk works on small folding knife blades( 3" range) as the single clamp will have to be positioned off center when sharpening. Looking forward to your series on this system.
I have the same gen 3 he shows here and the plates that come with it do the job. That being said I also got that extra plate set he has & it's the same quality, just more options of grits. I purchased the TSPROF Diamond plates 150, 220, 400, 600, 1000 grits and they have metal backing plates so you get a flat edge. I found the plastic backed plates actually bend a little when on the holder bar, ever so slightly & that results in an apex bevel. Which is fine, if that's what you're after.
The clamps on the sharpener work fine & for shorter blades I put both clamps on one side for stability & attempting to get the center of the blade centered to the sharpener. Depending on the shape of the spine, flat, radiused etc etc a single clamp may be all that's needed or possible.
Overall I'm very happy with the Gen 3 sharpener & the TSPROF plates. I'll be looking at Atoma or Jende plates in the future for their performance & longevity.
Hope all my blabbering helped.
Cheers
I have a pocket fixed blade that has taken over my pocket knife carrying lately, its the Griffin knives X series. Its a 3inch deeply hollow ground Magnacut drop point blade with a kydex sheathe with an ITP clip for the pocket carry and it costsd me like 230$ Not including the spare scale I purchased along with it.
Honestly small fixed blades can be really nice and stress free tools, I really love mine it looks and feels great. There's no fidgety stuff obviously and my specific knife isn't really a camp fixed blade and I use my hatchet for splitting anyway so I never baton wood with knives so I don't grade my fixed blades on that ability. The deep hollow grind on my everyday knife would likely fail horrendously since it isn't a very robust grind at all compared to flat or saber/scandi grinds ect.
Well, if you’re an expert with a hatchet, more power to ya! But if I was to make a recommendation to a less experienced woodcrafter, I would recommend carrying a 7” folding saw and a 4”-6” camp knife. The weight savings would be worth the swap and they would be a lot safer with minimal training. Hatchet is the right tool but harder to learn, build muscle memory, grow calluses and use in a limited light environment and without a convenient flat surface for an anvil. I have a not so popular video about that dating back a couple of years. Thanks for a great comment and hope you are a subscriber!
@@CuttingBoardRx Subbed. Actually yes it's true about the folding saw! I have one called a Silky Gomboy and in the last few years my folding saw may have more use than my fixed blade and hatchet combined!
very cool. love the content
I really want to try a knife in Magnacut. I just haven't found a pukko style knife in Magnacut that is hardened in the upper range.
@@FrankieJizking-js3yv Boker Vigtig vs. Wild. I mentioned it in this very video. 62-63 HRC
@@CuttingBoardRx Thank you. I will check it out. Be well.
I have one with orange g10. I love the feel of it and grip. But mine is very thick behind the edge and not a good slicer.
I hope you saw the very end of this video. I don’t mind thicker BTE geometry bc sharpening is fun! I have once got a Medford Infraction to cut a cigarette tube vertically in half. That was a 6-hour job and ended up looking like a scandi grind lol. An off course, I have a video about it…
Right now, I'm debating between the WRK M1/Backpacker or a Tactile Knives Dreadeye for my next small fixed blade. Both seem to be heat treating their Magnacut properly from what I've read.
I’ll throw Boker vs. Wild into the mix and Boker Lucas Burnley for a more compact option. Both are in MagnaCut at 62+ HRC, German-made and reasonably priced. $165 and $93 respectively. Knife center has both. Lmk what you think.
@CuttingBoardRx Thanks for the suggestions! I'm unfortunately limited to 3" or less blades for actual carry by state law (I'm looking for an EDC fixed blade) so the vs Wild would be out for me.
Right now I have an ESEE Izula (S35VN) and Asher Little Buddy (3V) in the rotation. Also have a Kansept Korvid S (S35VN) and Kizer Smolt (154CM) on the way. So no shortage of options, ha, just always looking for another great knife.
You wanna test an Emerson Com-Seven? Would love to now Emerson’s heat treat on their Magnacut debut. Let me know and I’ll send it your way
@@floridaman727 Email me (see channel description)
Very interested to see the sharpening system in action. Gen 3 Unavailable on Canada Amazon.
I am now up to three sharpenings on this system. So far so good. But too early to make a recommendation. Videos are coming soon.
What is the Rockwell test's name and model? There are many portable testers and I am unsure of which one to buy.
I have a Kizer Mini Harpoon in 10V, with micarta scales and it’s pretty damn decent
@@DanMatheny-sl7xk I only see them in CPM 3V for $69, which happens to be my favorite fixed blade steel because it is probably the toughest steel when thin geometry is needed. 10V has the edge retention that can’t be beat by most steels
Just purchased a Demko AD 20.5 in 3V. “Strongest folding lock” with the “toughest” powder metallurgy steel, can’t wait to drive this blade hard. Love your content and authenticity, don’t ever stop.
My father makes custom fixed blades. He single blade heat treats his Megnacut 65-67
is he using them as kitchen knives? that is way high imo
@ShoahBiz No bud. That's where the steel should be. It loses zero toughness. I think you are just used to seeing production companies running it soft. That's why you see them stopping to put what the hrc is. The absolute lowest it should be is 64 but you will see you tubers accepting 63 but they know it can be way better. All your custom Megnacut blades will be around 65
@@experienceprecision5406 magnacut sees a steep loss of toughness above 63….its right in the graph. Quit lying and talking out of your ass. Magnacut will chip at 67 with any real world use.
@@experienceprecision5406 Dr Larrin Thomas himself recommends around 62-63 for outdoor blades, bud
@@experienceprecision5406 magnacut at 67 will have way less toughness while still only having edge holding like s30v at 60ish. Keep talking out of your ass tho
I would enjoy a sharpening video
You will! And soon 👍
I wish we could have seen a cutting demonstration before you used it
@@mel87123 I totally blanked out: was on a little hike with my beautiful fiancé and was so eager to impress her with my cutting prowess that I used the knife before filming it cut.
White river is phenomenal as far as quality, fit and finish, as well as value considering it’s 100% USA made.
A bit of a side note regarding White River being an outdoor company and this knife not being ferro rod ready. I think this knife is more geared towards the EDC crowd since they already have an entire line of knives for the outdoor/bushcraft folks, which is their FireCraft line. All of those knives have a designated and sharpened divot specifically for ferro rods and are similar to the one you added here. Anyways as always great info and video, I’m glad to see they did magnacut right!
@@poncho151 I happen to have FC4 in S35VN. It’s at 58-59 HRC, which means they are on the waaaay lower side of heat treatment there. That maybe due to a prevalent opinion out there that impact toughness is the key property for a survival blade. I don’t agree, especially when it comes to the S30, 35 and 45 steel family. I think we are victims of the mono dimensional way Crucible determines toughness - through the impact testing. Bending strength should be the way to evaluate blades of 4” and longer. Bending to impact strength is not a linear correlation and there are serious variations between CPM steels. When buying S30,35,45 we are paying for the best balance between bending strength and impact strength but at 58-59 HRC we’re getting pretty much a 440C performance with slightly better corrosion resistance. Just my 10 cents.
Of course, Rockwell hardness above 60 is not important in everyday use. This sort of testing is a thrill for knife bros, but means nothing to practical people. A Mora or a Condor that costs $30 is going to serve every purpose that these knives serve. I carry fixed every day. Some hardness abstraction has never entered my mind during use.
So if you're a knife bro, go ahead and spend more than you need for a knife. If you want a knife that works every time you need it, you can trust a minimalist, a Mora, a low-cost Biker - you name it. Don't pay too much for a knife. And if you're a knife bro, shouldn't you be making your own?
@@friedfish69 Thsnks for watching
Italian #Magnacut is trash. Softer than mozerela.
@@deeacosta2734 What in the world are you talking about?! 61.4 HRC on that MKM and I tested another MKM and LIONSTEEL above 62. You are just repeating what couple of morons (like rushlambo) said about. Stop perpetuating bs. I have a video where I test 9 MC blades ant the Italians are in top 4
@@CuttingBoardRx they sent you a juiced knife.
@@CuttingBoardRxSounds like parroting without proof? 🤔🤣🤦🏻