Brushed Metal Finish Golf Club
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- Опубліковано 1 жов 2024
- Transform your golf clubs with this simple brushed metal finish technique on a 1969 Wilson Staff Bullet Back Custom! With a few simple steps, you can get the perfect look for your golf clubs and enjoy them for years to come.
I found these 1969 Wilson Staff Bullet Back Custom grind irons at a thrift shop. They've been sitting in my shop as I debated the perfect finish for these gorgeous irons. I decided to take a stab at a brushed metal finish and WOW they turned out amazing. Take a look and let me know your thoughts in the comments.
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#restoration #restorationvideos #golf #diy #asmr
Brad, your fascination with leading edges that could carve a Thanksgiving turkey confounds me. But those old Staffs you work on sure are pretty. Great job.
Razors, Nick! I'd dig ditches with these!
@@BradMeehan Looking forward to seeing some Goosenecks or maybe the old Lynx Boom Booms. Or a Powerbilt! I love the old brands.
Great work. The lettering looks a bit tedious with the different colors and some being so close to each other.
@Brad Meehan
Do you ever weigh the iron heads for before/after weight comparison?
I plan on it. You remove some weight, but add it back when you plate it. I have a gram scale (shhhhhh...) I can try it with.
Three questions, one what acid are you using is it muriatic acid or hydrochloric acid? Two, this works with 0.5 amps, I thought you are supposed to have higher amperage but low voltage. Third, not on the brushed steel version but on the other ones do you buff it after you electroplate it?
It's muriatic acid, but any dilute acid should work. I used muriatic acid to clean a rusty motorcycle tank back in the day, so it's just what I'm familiar with.
I found that the higher the current, the more pitting I got on the club so I've been using less for a longer period of time.
In some cases I'll buff the final plated club with my loose cotton wheel if it's not absolutely perfect. This is ok to do with light compound to really being out the shine. I'm a bit OCD when it comes to the final output. Even a fingerprint drives me crazy.
Brad, are you still taking customers? If so, how can I reach you? Thanks, Dave
@DavidRolfe-f1k Sorry, Dave. Just showing people how to do it themselves st home on the cheap. Take a look at my tutorial videos to see how.
Brad, I’m so glad I stumbled across your site. My prayers have been answered. I hav e hundreds of clubs that I want to refurbish. What is the polishing machine that you use in this video? Thanks!
Thank you!
Take a look at the links in the description for the "multi-tool bench grinder attachment." It's a great addition to the process.
How does the nickel plating stand up to play? Does it wear faster than chrome?
A pity you weren't able to save the ferrule, just slide them up a bit before full heat is applied.
It's less durable than chrome in the hardness scale. I'm thinking of doing a before and after video where I play a few holes and see how they stand up. I'm a hack so it should be a good durability test! You think people would enjoy that?
@@BradMeehan For sure, always good to see the finished product in action, and don't worry about not being a Pro level golfer, I post on course stuff and I'm far from being any good.
Pretty legit Brad.
Genius! Love how that 8 came out, beautiful iron.
Thank you. I really liked the brush look!
I would like to see a shaft re chroming, haven't seen or read about anyone trying this
I'm restoring a 100 year old club right now and the shaft may be a good candidate for this experiment.
@@BradMeehan Please upload the results or follow up in comments, been really curious.
Another job well done. Outstanding stuff!
Thanks, Jeff!
When you sandblast the face how come it doesn't get a shiny Chrome on it when u put it in the bath? is it because you didn't put any kind of reactor on it or anyting?
No, it's because of the texture. The metal is still there, it's just dulled because there little bumps.
Is it essential to electro clean and nickel plate the irons? If I just wanted to sand and polish the irons would that be okay?
The challenge is that it's almost impossible to know if you've sanded through to the steel, which will eventually rust. You can just polish without sanding, but the deep dings will still be there. If you're just looking to give it a shine, this is the way. If you want to fully restore it, it'll have to be protected.
How do you get a brushed look on raw irons without bench grinder
Sand paper. The trick is to go in straight lines in a single direction. Try 400 grit, and if that's not coarse enough, 220 is good, too.
Nice work! Is the head lighter than before?
Yes sir. I made a video to show how much
ua-cam.com/video/ILSuEPAtgtg/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared
Class
Who da man!!!! You are Brad 👊 yet again another fantastic result.....
Zen AF
Nothing more beautiful than a shiny blade
I just rewatched this video for the third or fourth time and noticed you didn’t use the activator after cleaning. Is that accurate or did you just not show the activator step? I find the activator discolors certain areas of the club head, so I was considering skipping that step on my next set. I’m curious if you skipped it or not.
I believe i skipped it as well. I can't give a good reason why besides sheer laziness.
I was reading on a plating forum that it's required to active any remaining nickel, or it won't accept the new nickel as a strong bond. After all the sanding I was really down to bare steel without much nickel left (if at all). Again, just laziness.
Check this out: www.finishing.com/library/pullizzi/brightnickel.html
Scroll down to 'poor adhesion'
Couldn't help but to notice that you bagged the Nickel plate ?? What is the reason for doing this ??
It helps with keeping the solution clean from anything that may be on the anode.
I saw a comment on one of your other videos that you did the copper plate on, and you said you leave them in for 3 to 4 hours in the plating solution?? Is that the same for nickel? Thanks!
I've been going about 2 or 2.5 hours at 3.5 volts and .5 amps. But check on it to make sure there's no pitting.
Brushed Metal Finish=Don’t polish out the scratches, correct?
The Scotch-Brite belts really took care of most of it. I hand sanded the deeper chatter around the lettering then hit it with the belt again to blend it. But, yes. No polishing on the wheels.
I’m obsessed with your videos now! What kind of belt sander do you have?
Hi Chad. I bought an attachment that goes on my bench grinder called the "Multitool attachment". There's a link in the description if you want to see it. Then I bought those Scotch Brite belts. You can do everything with sand paper but I'm lazy.
The restoration GOAT!
Art Bro!
Thank you. This is my canvas!
Hey Brad! I need your help please!
I am looking to redo some clubs and have all the equipment necessary and ready to do so. But I am stuck on what finish to do it in!
I know Nickel is not as strong but gives that shine. If I am looking to do these clubs in a finish for a durable/long lasting playing, What would you recommend as far as what I can do on my own?
There's a product at Caswell called Copy Chrome that supposedly is cobalt and nickel and they describe it as more durable than just nickel. I've never tried it
I'd go for a brushed look just so you can hide scratches as you play. Mirror finish is nice, bit every fingerprint is highlighted. I haven't back this up with evidence, but I'm betting that the nickel will bond to the brushed area better than the shiny flat surface kind of like scuffing before you paint. Again, just speculation.
Even if you just do nickel and you mess it up, you'll know how easy it is to take another dip in the tank.
@@BradMeehan thank you very much Bradd, I really do love your videos. I would love to see a copy chrome video one day just to see how it comes out.
Brad, I greatly appreciate you responding to my previous question but I have another if you would be so gracious.
I am curious about this playing process for the brushed steel. Did you use the same solution you used for Nickel? What kind of anodes did you use? And how do you recon this would hold up?
If it would be better for me to message directly I could do that.
Same solution. The plating will take on the look of what's under it - brushed, matte, or shiny.
@@BradMeehan you are very generous with your responding and sharing information. It’s greatly appreciated Brad!
Hi Brad
Where do you source the scotch brite belt from?
I ordered them from Golf Works:
www.golfworks.com/3m-scotchbrite-finishing-belts/p/mt0004med/
This is awesome Brad! I bought the electroless plating kit and it works really well but the nickel color is yellowy gold. Should i use a brightener to the bath?
Hi, Jeff. I asked this question on a plating forum, and they said no brightener is needed. You can lightly polish with the loose cotton and see if it brightens it. Mine looks very chrome-like in color.
@@BradMeehan thanks man I'll try that
Great job
A masterpiece!
pure artistry.
Love the work. Question for you is do you grid the face with the grinder? or so you just sand blast the face??
I polish the sides next to the actual face, but sand blast the hitting area.
@@BradMeehan what blast media do you use, if you don’t mind my asking?
@DB Golf it's 70 grit aluminum oxide. I got it from Harbor Freight if you're in the States.
Would a 12v Battery Tender Jr be enough power for this plating setup?
It'd be too much unless you can regulate the output to around 3.5 volts and about .5 amps.
@@BradMeehan Ok thanks! I found an adjustable voltage machine for $60 may try that out. Also, that cleaning wand you use? I can't find one anywhere??
@@shmirginhymer1867 Here's the one I have: amzn.to/3QfjQVv Take a look.
Great work Brad, Looks amazing
Thanks, Austin. More to come!
Love to see you do a full set Brad, they would $ell , love your work mate 👌
Thanks, Tony. Always appreciate your support here.
These videos are so relaxing!!
Thanks, Graham. I try to set the tone from the very beginning with something relaxing in nature to see so we're all on the same vibe.
Pacing and length ok? I've shortened them a bit to keep them flowing.
DID YOU REGROOVE IT?
I used a groove sharpening tool.
Gorgeous. Impressive work.
Love these encouraging comments. Thank you.
Lovely restored classic.
Thanks, John!
Man that looks good!!
Hell. Yes. Thanks, brother.
What PSI do you recommend for blasting? I don’t want to blast too hard and damage :)
The max on the gun says 90 psi. That's what I've been using and the texture looks good.
@@BradMeehan hi Brad,
Ive built a homemade electroplating tank and I’m experiencing some issues.
Firstly, the nickel anode is deteriorating and crumbling into small black pieces that sink to the bottom of the tank.
Secondly, the club head appears to be discolouring and getting dark spots all over the surface, and as far as I can tell there is no nickel on the club.
Do you know what could be causing this?
@@HardstyleShuffler98 What was your power output? I use 3.5 volts and .5 amps.
If there's chrome left on it, or if it's dirty it won't plate. Also, is it steel or stainless?
@@BradMeehan power is 5.1V - 0.7A. I’ve sanded a Cleveland wedge back so it’s steel and there’s definitely no chrome or anything left, have sanded multiple times.
@@HardstyleShuffler98 I found this for you: www.pfonline.com/articles/nickel-plating-problem(2)
Beautiful finish as always Brad!
Thank you, friend.
Another great job.
Thank you!
Looks awesome!
Thanks, Warren!
Can you make money doing this brad or is it just a hobby?
Another beautiful outcome. Love the Wilson Staff line from that era. Surprised the acid dip didn’t damage the red shaft plug. But, I like the polished finish better on the older clubs, sorry. New plating tank?
Thanks Greg. I also love the mirror finish but I needed to switch it up and branch out.
I bought a flour container as my new tank. It's deeper so I can hang the club by the hosel. I have to dial-in the power settings since it's a bit larger than the wire hook and may carry more resistance.
For the first 2 steps, how long do you leave the club head to soak for? Is it generally a standard amount of time, or does it depend on the level of rusting?
It's pretty arbitrary depending on the condition of the club and how dilute your acid is. I'd say it was in there for 10 minutes or so. The baking soda dip was only a few seconds because it does it's job of neutralizing so quickly.