When I grow up I want to be a Golf Scientist like Brad (I'm 55 😅). That's very special that the clubs stayed within the family. They need to be played sir! Pretty sure they won't break! They have one or two hundred years in them still! I only hang broken clubs on the wall.
Wow, I don’t remember them every looking that good, little brother! Can I have them back now? Beautiful job and a tribute to Dad! He would be proud knowing the history of those clubs.
I thank your Dad for bringing me to your channel...picked up a sweet set of Edge GS for $60, was wondering what the GS stood for, YT search brought up this video, then the video marathon began on my eventual new hobby. I later found the "GS" are the initials for Gene Sheeley, Hogan's lead club god...akin to the "RM" in Wilson world for Rob Mendralla.
Those look gorgeous, fantastic work! I have a set of these that my dad gave to me as well and I just started playing them again after taking a decade and a half long hiatus from golf.
Man, I remember seeing these advertised in golf mags back in the day and loved the look. Maybe there’s still time to pick up a set as a restoration project.
That looks awesome. I bet your dad would be proud of you bringing these clubs back to their former glory. Thanks for the video and best of luck with the rest of the set.
@@BradMeehan started off with ladies. Jessie valentine ( Dunlop) blades.. moved onto Maxfli Australian blades MP30. Several years later Callaway Razr XF.. lovely idiot clubs, made for an idiot !!
Several times during this I smiled in admiration of your skill and results. What a GREAT tribute to your father .I wish I still had my dad's clubs. Say, do you have any internships available?
Thanks! I'm just a dude in my basement shop screwing around, sipping a beer, learning new stuff, and messing with clubs that I think look cool. I will make all the tutorials you need to be successful here. It's really easy stuff. Let me know what things you're interested in and i will make a video. DIY!
@@BradMeehan I'd like to see something on removing the dinks and knocks - bag chatter - that happen to forged irons after a while. Is it necessary to fill all those marks or can they be removed on a grinder?
I just recently picked up a set of these. I played them in high school and want to refinish the set. So you have a suggestion on pin removal? I tried removing one with the smallest punch I have and it bent the punch!
That's strange. Mine didn't have a pin. You may have to drill it out on both sides. You'll only need to go as deep as the hosel wall, and it will come out. Check out my club head removal video too.
Brad, really like the videos and am going to polish up an old set of Wilson 3000's. I haven't noticed what you do for the face of the clubs as far as the polishing wheel? Do you polish the faces, and which compound/ wheel combination do you use?
I do, but I'm just OCD about the final output. I want the face to look uniform when I blast it with the sand blaster. You don't have to, but I'm a freak.
Would you provide links to all the equipment you used to restore this? Also, perhaps a detailed look at each part of the process, how to best go about using the deburring wheel, stuff you applied to the other wheels etc.?
Hey Brad, how do you know when to dip the clubs in miurotic acid before sanding vs not doing it. I ask because I have a set of 1999 Hogan apex blades that I want to restore and am wondering if I need an acid bath or not.
Hey Brad, any tips on getting out heavy bag chatter? Would the amount of sanding take away too much material and possibly change the shape/performance of the sole?
Hi Dan. Check out my video where I fill in the heavy chatter and scratches with copper. I think the thumbnail says "Easy Fix". That may be a good option to avoid sanding it all together. My Mizuno turned out great. Let me know your thoughts.
Hey Brad, amazing videos I have learned so much from your content. For the polishing compounds, can you explain why you used green on the Cotten wheel for what is most likely carbon steel? I have read a couple places that green is for stainless steel and other steels should be finished with blue compound? If you have any tips on the best compounds that work for you for both stainless and carbon steel that would be amazing! Thanks
You're correct. The chart for steel says to finish with the blue, but the green REALLY makes the shine come out. Most of the clubs still have some nickel on them since I'm only removing the chrome layer to polish, so it's a mix of bare steel and nickel that I'm working with. Maybe I'll do a side by side comparison video?
@@BradMeehan thanks for the info Brad, that makes sense! I know different compound kits on Amazon can be inconsistent but would you say that black on the sisal and then brown/white on the denim and then green on the cotton wheel would obtain some pretty solid polishing results?
@@rileydyment2766 oh yeah. Just take your time and don't be in a huge hurry to move to the next step. Most of the time is spent sanding, then sisal wheel. The brown, white, green will really make them brilliant that you'll wonder why you need to plate them at all. But a few days unprotected and you'll see oxidation start, even if you use a corrosion inhibitor. I try to polish the same day I I'm going to plate. Maybe 30 minutes polishing, 2 or 3 hours sitting in the tank.
Do you do this as a business? I have a set of these that my grandfather gave me in 1996 or 1997 when I was big enough for full size clubs. I almost sold them recently, and couldn't go through with it. Oddly sentimental. I'd love to see them restored like this.
It's just a hobby for me. There are a lot of tutorials to follow if you'd like to try this at home. If not, I'd still hang onto them and play a round with them in honor of your grandfather.
A couple questions, if I may: In the electro cleaning step there was an anode in the solution. What material was that? Also, you showed the bag containing the wand for the nickel activator. Is the wand nickel is it to be used with nickel. I have a wand purchased from Amazon via your link. Will this suffice?
Hi, Craig. Yes, if you dip it (versus brush it), the anode is a stainless anode. When you brush nickel, use the nickel tip on the nickel. If you brush the electrocleaner, then use the stainless tip. I'll make a more in depth video for every step so we can make sure you're successful at this. I realize I breeze through some of them. In the meantime, keep reaching out with questions.
It's aluminum oxide. There's a link in the description to a similar product. My compressor is very small, so if you're going to buy one, I'd buy the biggest compressor you can afford. It takes about 90 psi max for the gun i use, but at that pressure, my tank gets depleted fairly quickly and the compressor has to run to keep up. Go big.
Will a deburring wheel remove the chrome finish? I have these exact irons and just need to remove minor scratches. I have a bench grinder with a sisal, deburring & cloth wheel. Will just using compounds get all the scratches out and put that shine back on them? Thanks
It'd eventually take the chrome off, but I'd be hard to know when it's all off. You'd be better doing the removal step or the nickel won't plate. You could skip the plating but you'll have to stay on top of the corrosion by wiping them with s corrosion inhibitor like wd40, but you make have bare spots of steel where there were nicks that will rust.
@@BradMeehan so safe bet would just buff out by hand with some steel wool then hit it with compound black, green, blue. That way I could guarantee in not removing the chrome finish. I do t want them brand new, mirror finish just really nice
@@mptemplin Yes, that's the safest. You could even skip the steel wool and sisal wheel and just use the compounds to make it shiny. It won't take out the chatter because the chrome is so durable but they'll look good.
@@mptemplin I've been using a dilute acid bath for ther rust. Vinegar will work too, just slower. It also helps with removing the chrome so if that's not what you want to do, I'd avoid the acids.
It's called Electro Cleaning. You can either use the brush method, or bath method. In the video, I did the bath method by connecting the positive side of the power supply to a stainless anode and the negative to the club (it's connected to the hook, which is touching the club). The electro-cleaner removes solvents, oils, etc that is embedded in the pores of the metal so the plating adheres better. You set the power supply to approximately 10 volts and leave it in there for 30 seconds or so.
When I grow up I want to be a Golf Scientist like Brad (I'm 55 😅). That's very special that the clubs stayed within the family. They need to be played sir! Pretty sure they won't break! They have one or two hundred years in them still! I only hang broken clubs on the wall.
Wow, I don’t remember them every looking that good, little brother! Can I have them back now? Beautiful job and a tribute to Dad! He would be proud knowing the history of those clubs.
Thanks Bro. No you can't have them back! Haha.
This might be one of my favourite interactions on youtube right here fellas, love the video too great work!
😆😆😆
I thank your Dad for bringing me to your channel...picked up a sweet set of Edge GS for $60, was wondering what the GS stood for, YT search brought up this video, then the video marathon began on my eventual new hobby. I later found the "GS" are the initials for Gene Sheeley, Hogan's lead club god...akin to the "RM" in Wilson world for Rob Mendralla.
@@chip6954 that's awesome! Thanks, man!
That's incredible! Tremendous job! I am sure your Dad is so proud. Gorgeous golf club!
Looks great mate. You've inspired me to do this to my Hogan Redline Blades from late 1980's. They look superb once done.
This is something special!! And I totally understand not playing them!!
Every club you restore looks fantastic. What a great way to honor your father! And a beautiful talking piece to display as well
Those look gorgeous, fantastic work! I have a set of these that my dad gave to me as well and I just started playing them again after taking a decade and a half long hiatus from golf.
Awesome, John. Great memories of tagging along with my dad and using these clubs. Keep passing them around the family! We all learned on this set.
These restoration videos are zen moments. Fascinating!
It's even more zen when you're doing it!
Love your work and if I may, Love your Dad.
Thank you. Me too. I miss that guy.
I had a set of these up until 3 years ago. Great clubs. Gave them to youth golf.
Man, I remember seeing these advertised in golf mags back in the day and loved the look. Maybe there’s still time to pick up a set as a restoration project.
There on ebay for sure. And now you know you can make them look new again, so don't worry too much about the condition.
Every time I watch you do your stuff WOW comes out of my mouth 👌
Looks just like new when I bought a set in 1990. Great irons
Thanks John. They've been passed around the family and we're pretty dinged up, so it was cool to see what dad saw when he first got them too.
Awesome job! Very impressive work
Thank you. There are tons more here. Thanks for watching!
Omg ! Amazing work
The results are amazing
Thank you, sir!
Great job! Thank you for putting these up for us to watch and learn from.
Thanks for watching! I hope you get to try it out too.
Have a set of the ‘50s MacGregor M85 Colokrom I always wanted to have refinished. You have shown/inspired me to do it myself.
@@gregrobbins4572 Check out my m85 Colokrom video! I re-copper plated the face. They are sexy irons.
Let me know how they turn out!
That looks awesome. I bet your dad would be proud of you bringing these clubs back to their former glory. Thanks for the video and best of luck with the rest of the set.
Thank you! He would be proud!
Great tribute.
Great work captain…. Get them in play!
Thank you @thecallawaykid1763. Will do. I think a lot of people have a story about clubs they loved.
@@BradMeehan started off with ladies. Jessie valentine ( Dunlop) blades.. moved onto Maxfli Australian blades MP30. Several years later Callaway Razr XF.. lovely idiot clubs, made for an idiot !!
Beautiful job mate! Every scratch an dint has a story 😂
Looks very satisfying. I should send you my beat up Mizuno - Mp-37's ! Nice attention to detail
Dang, looks amazing
Brad...that’s looking mighty fine...mine should be up and running soon 👍🏼
I have a full set of those irons (still play them) and you did an amazing job!
Thank you. Man, I used to hit that 3 iron off the tree because I couldn't hit driver. They were great clubs.
Amazing job!, congratulations
Thank you, Pedro
Amazing
Great job
Thanks Alan
This brings a tear to my eye
Just found this set and am thinking I’m gonna work on it 🙌🏻
Did you have to chrome strip these beforehand?
Nice work, Brad. Which Testor's red did you use on the number paint fill?
Several times during this I smiled in admiration of your skill and results. What a GREAT tribute to your father .I wish I still had my dad's clubs. Say, do you have any internships available?
Thanks! I'm just a dude in my basement shop screwing around, sipping a beer, learning new stuff, and messing with clubs that I think look cool. I will make all the tutorials you need to be successful here. It's really easy stuff. Let me know what things you're interested in and i will make a video. DIY!
@@BradMeehan I'd like to see something on removing the dinks and knocks - bag chatter - that happen to forged irons after a while. Is it necessary to fill all those marks or can they be removed on a grinder?
I just recently picked up a set of these. I played them in high school and want to refinish the set. So you have a suggestion on pin removal? I tried removing one with the smallest punch I have and it bent the punch!
That's strange. Mine didn't have a pin. You may have to drill it out on both sides. You'll only need to go as deep as the hosel wall, and it will come out. Check out my club head removal video too.
Brad, really like the videos and am going to polish up an old set of Wilson 3000's. I haven't noticed what you do for the face of the clubs as far as the polishing wheel? Do you polish the faces, and which compound/ wheel combination do you use?
I do, but I'm just OCD about the final output. I want the face to look uniform when I blast it with the sand blaster. You don't have to, but I'm a freak.
Love these videos, great work. Have you had a chance to play with any of the nickel-plated clubs yet? How are they holding up to wear and tear?
No, but I will. The types of lies I get myself into will be a good test!
Damn, my guy is making it look easy! I'm just bummed I can't send you a set to rejuvenate.
It's DIY!! Haha.
Would you provide links to all the equipment you used to restore this? Also, perhaps a detailed look at each part of the process, how to best go about using the deburring wheel, stuff you applied to the other wheels etc.?
Of course. It's on the list!
Tony - I added links to all of the equipment in the description. Hope that helps!
Hey Brad, how do you know when to dip the clubs in miurotic acid before sanding vs not doing it. I ask because I have a set of 1999 Hogan apex blades that I want to restore and am wondering if I need an acid bath or not.
I am doing the same thing with the same clubs
Yes, the Apex blades are chrome-plated carbon steel. If you see rust, you can soak them.
Jim, there's no risk in dipping them again for longer if you aren't sure if it's all removed. Also, your sanding and polishing will remove the rest.
Hey Brad, any tips on getting out heavy bag chatter? Would the amount of sanding take away too much material and possibly change the shape/performance of the sole?
Hi Dan. Check out my video where I fill in the heavy chatter and scratches with copper. I think the thumbnail says "Easy Fix". That may be a good option to avoid sanding it all together. My Mizuno turned out great. Let me know your thoughts.
Whats the difference between this one and the one without the 'GS' marking? Nice job btw.
Stan, GS stands for Gene Sheely master club builder, Hogans go-to man. These are the best of the Edge series. Produced in 1992
Thanks, Jon!
Please do mine. I hace this entire set and would love to pass them down.
Hey Brad, amazing videos I have learned so much from your content. For the polishing compounds, can you explain why you used green on the Cotten wheel for what is most likely carbon steel? I have read a couple places that green is for stainless steel and other steels should be finished with blue compound? If you have any tips on the best compounds that work for you for both stainless and carbon steel that would be amazing! Thanks
You're correct. The chart for steel says to finish with the blue, but the green REALLY makes the shine come out. Most of the clubs still have some nickel on them since I'm only removing the chrome layer to polish, so it's a mix of bare steel and nickel that I'm working with. Maybe I'll do a side by side comparison video?
@@BradMeehan thanks for the info Brad, that makes sense! I know different compound kits on Amazon can be inconsistent but would you say that black on the sisal and then brown/white on the denim and then green on the cotton wheel would obtain some pretty solid polishing results?
@@BradMeehan also a side by side video would be amazing! Cheers
@@rileydyment2766 oh yeah. Just take your time and don't be in a huge hurry to move to the next step. Most of the time is spent sanding, then sisal wheel. The brown, white, green will really make them brilliant that you'll wonder why you need to plate them at all. But a few days unprotected and you'll see oxidation start, even if you use a corrosion inhibitor. I try to polish the same day I I'm going to plate. Maybe 30 minutes polishing, 2 or 3 hours sitting in the tank.
Can you double plate? I mean can you do the Chrome process twice to put the chrome on twice as thick?
You can just leave it in there longer to make it thick.
Do you do this as a business? I have a set of these that my grandfather gave me in 1996 or 1997 when I was big enough for full size clubs. I almost sold them recently, and couldn't go through with it. Oddly sentimental. I'd love to see them restored like this.
It's just a hobby for me. There are a lot of tutorials to follow if you'd like to try this at home. If not, I'd still hang onto them and play a round with them in honor of your grandfather.
Can I ask what solution you used for your electro cleaning please
@paulcole1171 Hi. It's Krohn's Electrocleaner. It's on ebay and sometimes Amazon.
A couple questions, if I may: In the electro cleaning step there was an anode in the solution. What material was that? Also, you showed the bag containing the wand for the nickel activator. Is the wand nickel is it to be used with nickel. I have a wand purchased from Amazon via your link. Will this suffice?
Hi, Craig. Yes, if you dip it (versus brush it), the anode is a stainless anode. When you brush nickel, use the nickel tip on the nickel. If you brush the electrocleaner, then use the stainless tip.
I'll make a more in depth video for every step so we can make sure you're successful at this. I realize I breeze through some of them. In the meantime, keep reaching out with questions.
Hi, when you use sand blasting, what type of sand are using and what type of air compressur are you using?
It's aluminum oxide. There's a link in the description to a similar product. My compressor is very small, so if you're going to buy one, I'd buy the biggest compressor you can afford. It takes about 90 psi max for the gun i use, but at that pressure, my tank gets depleted fairly quickly and the compressor has to run to keep up. Go big.
Will a deburring wheel remove the chrome finish? I have these exact irons and just need to remove minor scratches. I have a bench grinder with a sisal, deburring & cloth wheel. Will just using compounds get all the scratches out and put that shine back on them? Thanks
It'd eventually take the chrome off, but I'd be hard to know when it's all off. You'd be better doing the removal step or the nickel won't plate.
You could skip the plating but you'll have to stay on top of the corrosion by wiping them with s corrosion inhibitor like wd40, but you make have bare spots of steel where there were nicks that will rust.
@@BradMeehan so safe bet would just buff out by hand with some steel wool then hit it with compound black, green, blue. That way I could guarantee in not removing the chrome finish. I do t want them brand new, mirror finish just really nice
@@mptemplin Yes, that's the safest. You could even skip the steel wool and sisal wheel and just use the compounds to make it shiny. It won't take out the chatter because the chrome is so durable but they'll look good.
@@BradMeehan what would be the best way to remove rust? Soak in vinegar then hit it with sandpaper?
@@mptemplin I've been using a dilute acid bath for ther rust. Vinegar will work too, just slower. It also helps with removing the chrome so if that's not what you want to do, I'd avoid the acids.
What color did you use?
@7:19, what did you do there?
It's called Electro Cleaning. You can either use the brush method, or bath method. In the video, I did the bath method by connecting the positive side of the power supply to a stainless anode and the negative to the club (it's connected to the hook, which is touching the club). The electro-cleaner removes solvents, oils, etc that is embedded in the pores of the metal so the plating adheres better. You set the power supply to approximately 10 volts and leave it in there for 30 seconds or so.
Jacob - I added a link to the electrocleaner in the description if you'd like to read about it.
How long does the iron head have to be electroplated
A few hours. The longer it goes the thicker it plates. Put it in the tank, go hit a few balls, have a beer, come home and they're done.
What type of deburing wheel is that
I got it on Amazon. It's a 3M "fine" grade.
amzn.to/3qYH1I8
Can you nickel plate the current standard irons?
Can you give me an example? Like Mizuno MP20? Or like a Mavrik?
Buy chance what grit deburring wheel are these
It's called "fine grade"
amzn.to/3qYH1I8
Anyone still play these? I can buy a Neely mint set for 150 Canadian. Worth it?