If you split it apart for travel often, you may want to look at putting in threaded inserts. Over time, the screws in the current setup will eventually strip out the wood threads. With inserts, you could switch to bolts and it would hold up a lot better long term.
That's very good advice. Thanks a lot! I pay attention to not tighten the screws at all, just to hold the neck in place without moving, but I'll look for the inserts asap. 🤘🤘🤘🎸🎸
I have no idea about the model, but the guitar fits in those backpacks for 17 inch laptops. Check this out: ua-cam.com/users/shortsbHvgIb9QCms?feature=share
A magnet *might* reveal if it's stainless, *if* they used an alloy that doesn't have iron in it. Basically, if it's NOT magnetic, it's stainless steel. If it is magnetic, then we still don't know.
I'm not sure which kind of alloy they use for stainless steel frets. For it to be magnetic, though, the type of stainless steel must be either martensitic or ferritic, the others aren't (austenitic). In my case, I have 3 guitars with supposed stainless steel frets, a bass and an acoustic with nickel alloys. Not a single one is magnetic 😆 They feel different from each other, but it's tough to be sure. 🤘🤘🤘
Thank you for a very detailed review! I hope you still enjoying your Eart. Could you please specify dimensions of the neck and body? I've seen that neck strat thickening from the middle of the1st fret, does it bother you in any way? Any issues with string tuning and stretching after each disassembly-assembly? I use Snap Daragon folding guitar and tuning is always need to be stabilized within several minutes after each folding-unfolding-retuning. And of course overall "flexibility" due to folding design. So I'm thinking of switching to this Eart as a travel-friendly option. Thank you in advance!
Thanks! After I scalloped the neck, this guitar transformed for me, it is so much fun to play it. I have a wizard neck from Warmoth in my Fender strat, and the Eart's neck is close to that, a bit rounder and thicker. As for the tuning stability, yes, after each disassemble there is a period for the strings to stabilize. I have to retune it several times after putting the neck back in place, but only the next day it is stable. No issues for me though, as far as I understand, this is due to the strings, not the neck. Good luck! 🤘🤘🤘
@roadrunnerplaying Glad to hear that you're still satisfied with guitar! I ment transport dimensions 😀 What is the length of the detached neck? Length and width of body?
Oh, Ok... I'll take some measures, but it fits easily in a backpack for 17" laptops, or in an airplane cabin luggage. I have 2 shorts showing that: ua-cam.com/users/shortsbHvgIb9QCms?feature=share ua-cam.com/users/shortsMXEgOmkAGh4?feature=share
I've seen them all, thank you for links. As I said, I'm using Snap Dragon folding guitar and it's dimension when folded 53 x 29 cm, while neck is the longest part. So I'm wondering what are dimensions of Eart GW when disassembled. Will wait for you answer, thank you! @@roadrunnerplaying
The basic dimensions are On the long horn: 43.5cm On the short horn: 29cm Width at the bridge: 32.5cm Thickness from back to top of bridge tuners: 5.8cm Neck length:52.8cm Neck width at 24th fret: 5.8cm I took a picture with them, it is here: drive.google.com/file/d/1zbIUqKctR6X6RbW5FYdjrgtquvsMV0B4/view?usp=drivesdk I hope it helps. Cheers
@@roadrunnerplaying you can buy pre radiused fret wire precut. Re fretting I didn't find particularly hard. It was the tools. I used stainless steel so I needed some specialty tools. It was a lot of work. I did this to one of my other guitars not the eart. Never scalloped a neck so not sure how hard that is. Tools were fairly pricey for the refret.
Thanks for sharing that. Before scalloping, I considered refretting but I was afraid about the tools needed. I'll do it some day though, it must be nice.
Too heavy. Not as good looking as their first version which unashamedly ripped off the Strandberg; but the worst part is it's crazy heavy. Pass for me.
@@roadrunnerplaying not sure the exact weight on the EART, I returned it and not sure I took a pic of the weight, but I believe it was over 6lbs. For how small it was, it just felt heavier than it needed to be. First foray into headless I went with one of the Grote ones probably back in 2017. It was a little over 5lbs but wasn't happy with it and I feel like it warped in the short time I had it. My NK 6 string headless was a great guitar and was about 5lbs 2oz, would have kept it but I don't like the fanned frets on a 6. Now I've got the Strandberg Boden Essential and love it. It's just over 5lbs and it's the best guitar I've ever owned. The endurneck is ok; I wouldn't choose a guitar for having it or not. For me it just comes down to playability, pickups, weight and overall feel. I would have probably kept the EART too though if it was lighter.
@KragonPebble I'll weigh mine once I got my hands on a scale. But compared to my Strat and my Amarok 7, it weighs nothing. I'm disappointed in the zero fret though, it already has marks on it
@@roadrunnerplaying the Amarok 7 looks great too, I was half considering getting one to convert to headless and maybe doing some weight relief on the body a bit. Frets look impeccable on the Amarok, and pickups sound fine out of the box but are easily swappable if you wanted something specific, which is a little bit harder to do on some of the multiscale guitars. I have noticed the plinking problem on the zero fret on other guitars. I'd be interested to see if one of the zero frets you can buy on stewmac that are at least a named steel like 304 would hold up better.
The Amarok is a beast, got one from B stock in Thomann... Less than 500€ for a 7 strings with EMGs, locking tuners The idea of refretting only the zero fret is great... I'll try that
If you split it apart for travel often, you may want to look at putting in threaded inserts. Over time, the screws in the current setup will eventually strip out the wood threads. With inserts, you could switch to bolts and it would hold up a lot better long term.
That's very good advice. Thanks a lot! I pay attention to not tighten the screws at all, just to hold the neck in place without moving, but I'll look for the inserts asap. 🤘🤘🤘🎸🎸
Was just thinking about wear. Good advice! Best Regards and Best Wishes!
Many thanks for your feedback. I'm in plan to buy one for traveling as well. Now I am more convinced for purchase :D
You're welcome, I'm glad it helped! 🤘
What is the model of your cabin luggage?? I need this so badly
I have no idea about the model, but the guitar fits in those backpacks for 17 inch laptops.
Check this out:
ua-cam.com/users/shortsbHvgIb9QCms?feature=share
A magnet *might* reveal if it's stainless, *if* they used an alloy that doesn't have iron in it. Basically, if it's NOT magnetic, it's stainless steel. If it is magnetic, then we still don't know.
I'm not sure which kind of alloy they use for stainless steel frets. For it to be magnetic, though, the type of stainless steel must be either martensitic or ferritic, the others aren't (austenitic).
In my case, I have 3 guitars with supposed stainless steel frets, a bass and an acoustic with nickel alloys.
Not a single one is magnetic 😆
They feel different from each other, but it's tough to be sure.
🤘🤘🤘
Thank you for a very detailed review!
I hope you still enjoying your Eart.
Could you please specify dimensions of the neck and body?
I've seen that neck strat thickening from the middle of the1st fret, does it bother you in any way?
Any issues with string tuning and stretching after each disassembly-assembly?
I use Snap Daragon folding guitar and tuning is always need to be stabilized within several minutes after each folding-unfolding-retuning. And of course overall "flexibility" due to folding design. So I'm thinking of switching to this Eart as a travel-friendly option.
Thank you in advance!
Thanks! After I scalloped the neck, this guitar transformed for me, it is so much fun to play it.
I have a wizard neck from Warmoth in my Fender strat, and the Eart's neck is close to that, a bit rounder and thicker.
As for the tuning stability, yes, after each disassemble there is a period for the strings to stabilize. I have to retune it several times after putting the neck back in place, but only the next day it is stable.
No issues for me though, as far as I understand, this is due to the strings, not the neck.
Good luck! 🤘🤘🤘
@roadrunnerplaying Glad to hear that you're still satisfied with guitar!
I ment transport dimensions 😀 What is the length of the detached neck? Length and width of body?
Oh, Ok... I'll take some measures, but it fits easily in a backpack for 17" laptops, or in an airplane cabin luggage.
I have 2 shorts showing that:
ua-cam.com/users/shortsbHvgIb9QCms?feature=share
ua-cam.com/users/shortsMXEgOmkAGh4?feature=share
I've seen them all, thank you for links. As I said, I'm using Snap Dragon folding guitar and it's dimension when folded 53 x 29 cm, while neck is the longest part. So I'm wondering what are dimensions of Eart GW when disassembled. Will wait for you answer, thank you! @@roadrunnerplaying
The basic dimensions are
On the long horn: 43.5cm
On the short horn: 29cm
Width at the bridge: 32.5cm
Thickness from back to top of bridge tuners: 5.8cm
Neck length:52.8cm
Neck width at 24th fret: 5.8cm
I took a picture with them, it is here:
drive.google.com/file/d/1zbIUqKctR6X6RbW5FYdjrgtquvsMV0B4/view?usp=drivesdk
I hope it helps.
Cheers
I have one and I love it.
Now that I've scalloped it, I love it as well. With shipping and import taxes, it is a bit expensive, but the quality is great.
@@roadrunnerplaying I dropped a set of 81-85 in it. All good now.
How hard is refreting compared to scalloping?
Do you buy the wire already curved?
@@roadrunnerplaying you can buy pre radiused fret wire precut. Re fretting I didn't find particularly hard. It was the tools. I used stainless steel so I needed some specialty tools. It was a lot of work. I did this to one of my other guitars not the eart. Never scalloped a neck so not sure how hard that is. Tools were fairly pricey for the refret.
Thanks for sharing that.
Before scalloping, I considered refretting but I was afraid about the tools needed.
I'll do it some day though, it must be nice.
É do Brasil? Sotaque parecido com o nosso quando falamos inglês.
Opa! Vc tem um bom ouvido, ou quer dizer que preciso trabalhar mais no sotaque 😆😆
@@roadrunnerplaying brasileiro falando inglês é muito característico e perceptível kkkkk
sure its easier to carry around, but I prefer my electric guitars uncircumcised.
😆😆😆
The bridge is crap. I used it in a build project...
What is the issue with the one you used?
Too heavy. Not as good looking as their first version which unashamedly ripped off the Strandberg; but the worst part is it's crazy heavy. Pass for me.
True, the GW1 looks better. To what do you compare the weight? I find it light as a feather
@@roadrunnerplaying not sure the exact weight on the EART, I returned it and not sure I took a pic of the weight, but I believe it was over 6lbs. For how small it was, it just felt heavier than it needed to be. First foray into headless I went with one of the Grote ones probably back in 2017. It was a little over 5lbs but wasn't happy with it and I feel like it warped in the short time I had it. My NK 6 string headless was a great guitar and was about 5lbs 2oz, would have kept it but I don't like the fanned frets on a 6. Now I've got the Strandberg Boden Essential and love it. It's just over 5lbs and it's the best guitar I've ever owned. The endurneck is ok; I wouldn't choose a guitar for having it or not. For me it just comes down to playability, pickups, weight and overall feel. I would have probably kept the EART too though if it was lighter.
@KragonPebble I'll weigh mine once I got my hands on a scale. But compared to my Strat and my Amarok 7, it weighs nothing.
I'm disappointed in the zero fret though, it already has marks on it
@@roadrunnerplaying the Amarok 7 looks great too, I was half considering getting one to convert to headless and maybe doing some weight relief on the body a bit. Frets look impeccable on the Amarok, and pickups sound fine out of the box but are easily swappable if you wanted something specific, which is a little bit harder to do on some of the multiscale guitars. I have noticed the plinking problem on the zero fret on other guitars. I'd be interested to see if one of the zero frets you can buy on stewmac that are at least a named steel like 304 would hold up better.
The Amarok is a beast, got one from B stock in Thomann... Less than 500€ for a 7 strings with EMGs, locking tuners
The idea of refretting only the zero fret is great... I'll try that