HOW TO: Inspect Grizzly 660 rear drive hub
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- Опубліковано 5 жов 2024
- Quick diagnosis of the sound • Grizzly 660 Rear Drive...
Here you will get the chance to see the components involved in diagnosing a "grinding" or "clicking" sound coming from your grizzly's rear end.
This video will not show the removal of the rear differential, however it shows what the rear drive hub will look like if it has become damaged or worn out.
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great videos. really enjoy the fact that you are committed to keeping the older atv going.
No doubt replace those seals while your there!
If I remember correctly, that part is called the boss.
Got all the parts ordered this afternoon. That Boss was the most costly part but still cheaper than new bike payments right now.
Better those parts than the actual rear diff! LOL It's amazing the parts that fail when spending a lot of time in mud and water!
Fun, I had the same type of failure at the rear diff on my 1975 BMW motorcycle.
I have the same probleme right now. I'm learning
Hey ruyguy really enjoying the knowledge you put out on this channel on your old 660 friend of mine has a 05 se grizzly 660 and when he went to change the rear diff oil there was like little flat pieces of metal almost like sharp tinfoil when u roll it in your fingers would u know any causes of this problem? I’m wondering if it’s bearing coating. It’s not chunks of metal but paper flat tiny pieces he did do a flush just by hand spinning the tires with diesel and flushed out what he could. I figured I’d drop u a line and get your opinion on this matter thanks ruyguy 🙏🙏
It was contaminated with like a brown muddy color fluid on the flushes that we did it needs rear seals all 3 and new rear axles but just don’t wanna cause more damage than necessary
Just trying to see what you would do ruy if u picked up a used bike that has this issue. We did the front diff fluid and it was clear a little discolored but looks incredible. Just trying to get it trail worthy
Those tiny flat piece of metal are most likely caused by metal contaiminates binding together in the oil and then getting compressed by the crown and pinion gear causing the metal to "flake"
if you have not split the casing apart in the rear diff i would be very suspect that the pilot or main bearing has staerted to fail putting metal through the diff.
Unfortunately it sounds to me like that case has to be split. You can flush the oil all you want, but the result will be metal in the oil each time its run it till the bearing material just breaks apart cause a catastrophic failure and requireing a new rear diff.
I would have a look here for the bearings and seals needed. You may also want to replace the Thrush washer as its most likley now out of spec because of the metal particals wearing it down faster. www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemparts/a/yam/50039182f870021f60a0d584/drive-shaft
Don't cheap out with bearings. All-Balls bearings are garbage. At the very least try to find a local bearing shop to match the ones you take out first to save some money. SKF, FAG, NSK, TIMKEN are all good names.
@@ruyguy8888 awesome ruy I really appreciate it. So she’s ready for a rebuild. Can u buy and entire rebuild kit that’s worth a damn all in the same package? Usually I get all oem bearings seals etc, I know I can get cheaper ones but not worth cheating out on stuff like that. Yeah it seems to turn fine the rear wheels spinning in forwards but trying to spin in reverse with bike in neutral jacked up she binds up a bit and turns hard
@@ruyguy8888 I have not taking the rear differential out yet I was hoping I didn’t have too but sounds like it would be a good idea