Ty Ivan for fixing my dads truck! Next time we wont clean the throttle body! Haha And for all those with the negative comments, the truck belongs to an elderly gentleman who went off the “engine oil life %” instead of changing it every 3-4k miles. And Rock Auto unfortunately was the only choice $ wise to buy a rebuilt engine from during the pandemic. 🤦🏻♂️
@@medic8890 - Just ignore the idiots who act like they've never made a mistake in their life! They have nothing better to do anyway except act like armchair warriors!
Yes indeed, check your oil. Especially if you have a Kia Soul. At about 70,000 miles, ours started using massive oil (about 3 quarts between oil changes). Kia says this is normal... We brought it up to them several times. Our warranty is now gone so we are stuck with it now. I'll never get another Kia. Thank God I always check oil regularly, in all my vehicles.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics How about it. Thats why I'll never get another Kia. If they would have fixed it, maybe I would have a different opinion of them.
Multiple variants of the 2006 Pilot engine. FWD had Variable Cylinder Management, a garbage system at the time with massive engine ring issues. Subject to Honda service improvement. AWD didn't have VCM, so a totally different engine.... Easy to mix up.
I've lost count of all the happy customers that you dealt with. There must be a gold 🏅 🥇 medal award in the offing somewhere. Congrats on doing a great job and going the extra mile to make people happy, especially for the long distance no hopers.
If the TP REL value is to high it is because there is a dead spot in the tp sensor and the pcm keeps moving it to find a known good value and if the TPREL values goes above a certain percentage it will throw that 2279 code. the known repair for this is a new throttle body. it is always a good idea to try the free fixes first and prepare the customer that a throttle body may be in their future. Happy Days
I have a 2007 version of that same truck. I had a cracked fitting for the coolant passage that's on the bottom of the throttle body. And I had a hell of a time trying to get a used replacement throttle body to learn. I went through all the proper procedures 5 times. It just wouldn't take. So, I wound up scavenging the coolant fittings off the replacement throttle body and put them on my old one. Cleaned it up real nice and did the throttle relearn process again. It took the first try. By the way Ivan. I had that same minor fish bite misfire on mine too. Turned out to be tight valves. Those things are super picky with valve clearances. To tight = misfire. To lose = loud lifter tap.
@@adotintheshark4848 Good plan. I think I may have set them to a moose's eyelash over spec. But I just got a set of long reach angled gauges. I'm going to readjust them again this weekend.
I have a question to something I have never seen happen before. How can a valve lash grow on the intake side and shrink on the exhaust side? Is this normal for a J series Honda V6?
the valve lash should shrink on both sides. As the seat wears the valve sits higher in the head, reducing clearance. If the clearance isn't brought back to specs, the valve stays open too long and can burn.@@Sandmansa
@@adotintheshark4848 That is what in theory should happen. Valve lash should shrink over time from valve seat wear. But from what I have been reading, it seems that it's fairly common on the J35 engine, that the intake valve lash can grow. I'm not sure how, but I'm guessing due to cam shaft or follower wear maybe? When I did the valve lash on my truck a couple of weeks ago, I only did the exhaust side. 4 out of 6 cylinders were really tight. But checked the intake side by feel to make sure they had reasonable clearance. I know I should have checked them properly, but I was in a rush at the time. I re-lashed all the valves today and the exhaust side was still good at .013. But the intake was .013 to .016. It should have been .009 at best.
Samething is with idle learning on honda 1.5dsi engines its a pain to get it done.you have to be more stubborn and keep doing it untill it says done..what a pain in the neck....nice work sir..cheers
Good video! On the early GM's you had to do an idle re-learn whenever the battery was disconnected. All you had to do was start the engine, and hold your foot on the brake for 5 minutes. Most of the time it only took a minute or so.
my friend had an L300 wagon and his battery died, after he replaced it it was running funny so he took it to the shop before I knew about it. they charged him an hour time to do the idle relearn which was probably just that, holding the brake pedal for five minutes 🙄 not too long after the timing belt broke and grenaded the engine since saturn decided to use an interference engine in their infinite wisdom. which was too bad because it was his grandma's car in near new condition with barely more than 110k on it.
Honda has taught me that in order to do anything, everything must be perfect. It annoys me endlessly! Want to initialize a new park sensor, but your turbo wastegate actuator position sensor is faulty? Nope! Not today! LOL Really good find on this one, Ivan!! Research is just so, so, SO important! :D
Doing an engine on an Odyssey next week, same engine I believe. Fuel trim, idle learn and sometimes crank learn are important with any major engine repair, just like transmissions. :)
Now I have valve clearance in the back of my head from you and jakes videos. Great to know service info and procedure. Toyotas are mostly manually reset with a similar warm up and rpm hold. Too bad there isn’t just a screw on all TB and the pcm would just go along with where you set it.
Similar problem on my 2006 Odyssey with 3.0 JDM engine swap. All kind of problems to include same code and high idle. Redid upper and lower intake manifold gaskets (ouch). New PCV. Did nothing. Utubed all fixes, nothing until someone said they used a Foxwell NT510 scanner. That is obsolete so bought the replacement which was NT530. Cannot remember exactly what I did but the scanner was fantastic. Fixed everything within 15 minutes and been running a year without problem. Like you said the key is to have HDS level scanner. Well this scanner is Honda specific (you have to chose one make) and was $160. Appears mirror capability of HDS. By the way I have several scanners, which gives me some perspective in choosing the best for the money. Neither of my other two, Innova 5160 and OTC Genisys Sys 4, would do anything for the Honda. Both supposedly should have. Yet the cheaper Foxwell NT530 was great. Point being is if you are having scanner level problems with your car, bite the bullet and get a scanner specific for your make of car. That way you are getting something close to OEM capability. I love my Foxwell and if I upgrade will go for one of their models.
Only 4 intake valve seats were ok when the customer had them checked? Wow mate! You picked it in one champ! 👏👏 You also chose well with the reset procedure not having been done correctly! Two outa two! 😃👍💢💥💯😎
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I would think that should have been checked prior to shipping the engine to whoever installed it. Usually a good rebuild does not need a valve adjustment. Last time I had done a valve adjustment was on my 74 Chevrolet El Camino that had about 175,000 on the original engine. That was maybe 35 years ago.
These things are oil burners for sure. Put a engine in one around 2018. Its been solid but does burn a little bit. Check your oil halfway between intervals if you own one.
Honda VTEC-i engines cut off cylinder firing to save gas. It is main cause of oil burning. I put a device that attaches to the coolant sensor that fools the computer into not turning on the cylinder cutout feature. Called a Muzzler or something like that. It has been wonderful, engine runs smooth and have not had engine burning problems. I use a bit more gas, but I avoid all the problems caused by the cutout system. Also I would experience what felt like transmission mis-shifts with the VTEC-i system that made it feel like the transmission was going out. It was the cutout system. Google Honda engine problems to see what I am referring too.
They might have given a lot of info but it was a lot of wrong info. RockAuto has never sold complete engines Honda's, they've sold rebuild kits but not short blocks. Maybe they got a head? And they definitely didn't do the OEM relearn. As Honda owner, doing it without a Honda specific scan tool is a real PITA (as you found out). I had to leave the car unplugged for at least an hour before the PCM reset itself for a relearn, a few minutes doesn't do it.
I cleaned the throttle body on my 2010 CRV a month ago and removed the battery for 10 minutes and do the 3K RPM rev and it works fine. No check engine light.
Yes, I had my mechanic clean the throttle body and the idle was crap, it was kicking when let go of the gas pedal, shifting bad. He did not do the relearn procedure. I got a different mechanic with Good Autel to do the relearn and it did it the first time, now the Honda 1.8L, 2006 is like new. Thanks. I have tried that as well, I saw that procedure on the net, where Autel was not needed, only disconnect the battery for 15 min. But it did not work. Thanks.
You can try cleaning out the IAC, as they get dirty/clogged. BTW, these engines are picky about the valve lash getting too tight .. thx for sharing the customer’s feedback.
Like let the man do his own diagnostic he doesn’t need help from anybody else. He’ll figure it out himself. He’s very good at it he don’t need wannabes or if they think they know or thrown ideas in there he’ll figure it out. It’s not his first rodeo, he’s not gonna listen to somebody’ssuggestion he’s gonna do it the way he wants
Yes,if the engine has adjustable valve lash that would have to be reset at the first 1000 mile or.1500 kilometre run in service. My dad got that done with an as new Mitsubishi 4G32 Saturn 1.6 litre engine in his old L300 Express (Delica) van about 30 years ago,it was an as new engine & the people who rebuilt it had to reset the valve lash at the 1500 kilometre service after the engine was run in. My dad got rid of it & went back to driving Holdens after we got our licences about 25 years ago because we're a Holden family & they're much more durable than a Mitsubishi,he bought the Van when it had done 100,000 kilometres or 60,000 miles with a reconditioned engine fitted & it ended up going by 200,000 kilometres or 120,000 miles,I mean that engine was starting to burn oil when it had done 100,000 kilometres as well but the odometer had clocked over twice (it only went up to 99,999 kilometres) !
Nice video and diagnosis. Looks like everyone is struggling with Hondas right now. I guess the Honda has a learning disability since it took two days to learn the idle after the reset. 😂😂
Great video these trouble codes are not easy to diagnose do you anything about Honda p1399 I have this on 2000 odyssey and random misfire code and all cylinder misfire codes you ever dealt with this issue
Interesting..... ive had a misfire on cyl6 for literally over a year now.... halfway through the 3rd oil change.... i use the same brand scanner you use and there's actually a button to force the car to learn it and i think it has 'snap throttle to 3krpm and let off' in it Well i know ive modified it a ton so ive been doing tons of diag on it because everything has been pretty normal so far, ive done literally everything except check valve lash.... -Engine is in time -Good compression -Held compression for at least 5 min (compression leak test) -swapped and torqued all spark plugs -swapped all coils -swapped all injectors -changed all intake gaskets -changed air filter -cleaned and swapped MAP sensor -switched gas stations, and stepped to 93 for about 500 miles -changed oil (every 3k, on 3rd change) -changed suspected bad o2 And ive also been watching the live data graphs and did some recording and there is definitely a phenomenon happening to the front bank and i wonder if it just might be the valves but i dont feel like dealing with it lol... This is the 2nd engine as the first engine blew up when the mechanic shop over-torqued the timing kit (replaced engine myself and been doing all work myself since) and ive actually got the start of a 3rd engine sitting and ready to be built as a higher-power engine so i dont care too much about this one working except for the fact that i need a baseline tune and data of a good healthy engine to reference...
And no, not looking for anyone to diag it, im pretty sure at this point its the valve terrain..... i just wanted to replace all the free parts first... And itd be really hard to diag it without all the info ive collected anyway lol.... its literally been a year and around 12k miles or so
Our old Skoda Fabia (basically a golf wagon) from 2005 has the opposite issue. It loves to calibrate the throttle body and relearn the idle. It does that immediately on cold start. Well, the alternator and battery is a bit tired. When it's cold out and you want to drive off (lights on), it throws a code along the lines of throttle body relearn canceled, voltage to low. But it STORES the broken value. Resulting in extreme surging and no throttle response. Connect a scanner, press relearn it learns in 3 seconds just fine and works again for half a year. Annoying quirk :D
Yep. Oil is cheap, but without changing it every 3000 to 4000 miles or 6 months whichever comes first, ENGINES are expensive! Even if the Negative battery cable is disconnected from the battery and connected and held to the positive cable, some vehicles still need the Diagnostic scan tool to follow procedures.
I always smoke test every Honda that comes in the door with any induction related issues before doing anything else. The rubber boots on most of these motors tend to deteriorate at a higher rate than any other manufacturer. One minute it can be fine, and the next minute it's swiss cheese.
Same in my realm of BMWs. I have had a cars be fine and pull back into the parking lot with the check engine light for a lean condition and lo and behold there's a tear somewhere. I'm extremely curious why a smoke check was bypassed with such a fault. Not to jinx it, but I don't really believe its just a throttle relearn problem. When I was doing all makes and models, Hondas never gave me this kind of issue relearning it's throttle body. We seriously have one engine in BMWs that is so difficult with it's relearn procedure that the tiniest and I'm talking micro leak will not allow a relearn. When it fails it's relearn you know there is 100% guaranteed an air leak or mechanical issue hiding in the engine bay.
Old Chrysler caravan with the Mitsubishi 3.0L after cleaning Throttle body you have to reset with the DBR3 scan tool, IAS motor reset if not reset idle would be at 1300 rpm not at factory spec of 750rpm
Awesome videos. Great information. Which think tool scanner do you use? I'm shopping for one and stuck between think tool or autel maxi pro mp 808 with tpms
I have a Honda Pilot around that year, paint is shot needs an interior but mechanically it is stout, timing belts, trans, brakes rear end etc.. I would drive it anywhere
What I'm curious in is why you didn't smoke check it? Personally I would have made sure it really is free of leaks before attempting anything, I wouldn't even trust trims if I had a fault like this that is so clear in it's title. The engine was replaced, it's easy to overlook one tiny detail on a large job like that.
I am betting the engine did not have an vacuum leak. Speaking from experience, my 2006 Odyssey played the same trick on me. Making me change upper and lower intake gaskets. Total waste of time. In my case I had a higher idle rpm that tricked the engine computer into thinking it was vacuum related. Wasted two weeks on Utube fast fixes. Only thing that cured it was buying Honda specific scan tool Foxwell NT 530. You have to chose a specific make when you buy it. Did idle relearn and a couple of other things and it cured everything.
@@Lloyd-z3q What I'm saying is I've relearned vehicles with definite problems, and they're happy even for a year with that problem I learned into it. If you changed upper and lower gaskets (seemingly) to chase an idle fault you really had no basis on changing them other than a hunch. That's fine for a diy, but in my opinion a diagnosis covers your ass on all fronts. If the customer asked if there was a vacuum leak you can't answer no, because you don't know if there was because you didn't check it. The light turns on, they decide to have ol Ricky Bobby down the road look at it and they find a vacuum leak and your reputation just took a hit. I don't know, for me the reputation of leaving no questions unanswered is worth 5 minutes of a smoke check. I have very intelligent customers come randomly and after their diagnosis they always have a question "Hey dont you think it could have been the relay beca-" Ill stop you right there, I made sure to check your relay. It is not your relay, your problem was an open winding in the fresh air pump, do you want to see the waveform? Just my two cents. PHAD is very good, not knocking him.
Amen. My NT530 Honda specific is the best investment I have ever made. None of my more expensive scanners would do anything for the Honda. Key is to have a Honda specific scanner. I was almost ready to junk my 2006 Odyssey until someone suggested the earlier version NT510, so bought the newer NT530 and have not regretted it.
I have two old Hondas. A 2006 Civic and a 2010 Odyssey. I check and top up the oil every 20% on the oil life and change it at 100% (which is normally at about 5-6k miles). The "oil life" is not an indication of oil level. Honda could do a better job educating their customers because the maintenance minder "oil life" does give a false sense of security. Although they're clear about in the need to check and top up the oil level in the user manual. One of my old Hondas, the 2006 Civic, with 246k miles, consumes 2+ quarts of oil per oil change interval. It would be off the stick if I didn't top it up periodically. Also BTW you can clean a Honda throttle body without throwing off the calibration by simply putting the ignition on position "II" and fully depressing the accelerator pedal. That will open the butterfly valve. Then just reach in and clean it. I just spray some throttle body cleaner on an old toothbrush and reach in and give it a gentle scrub. Then followup with a paper towel wrapped around the end of the brush. Honda say to avoid hosing down the butterfly hinges because it will wash away their lubrication. No risk of that if you use a brush and minimal cleaner. Personally, I don't think it's even terribly important. I've done it exactly once for each car. I would only do it of the intake is already apart for some other reason. There was never much to clean. Just a thin surface coating of black carbon looking dirt.
I have a 2004 Lotus Elise that uses an older Toyota engine and its throwing a code P0507 Idle control system RPM higher than expected. I replaced a split vac hose and cleaned the throttle body and idle valve. Idle speed is ok and it runs well, this code may stay off for a few days then returns. Im wondering does the throttle need to be re calibrated similar to this one.
I mostly fix my BMW m5 2006 I purchased the Autel MS908 works OK but the update cost is high. Lately got a 02 bank 1 code tried to fined 02 live graph but now has nothing very strange. Can you recommend a good scanner?
I know somebody like this, they can't be bothered to check the oil, he says if it needs oil the oil light will come on, he changes it once a year whether it needs it or not, it's a 2016 passat. So last spring he needed brakes and rotors all around, when I visit him and we go somewhere he tries to use the brakes as little as possible because he doesn't want to have to do another brake job, I wish I was making it up but it's the God's honest truth, he does have a bad case of OCD which might be a factor.
So how long did it take for this vehicle to do the TB relearn? My Nissan does the same as this Honda did and I've let it learn for 30 minutes and still never says learned.
In the Toyota case, you can clean the throttle body and the computer will just relearn the angles after a few drive cycles. Honda obviously makes the process too complicated.
Hondas are funny, I had one i did a cylinder head (Used a memory saver this is key) because a piece of cylinder 2 exhaust valve was burned away. after repair It started setting a #2 misfire on a perfectly running engine. After 3 hours of swearing and throwing tools, it occurred to me Honda has adaptives in the engine computer, and maybe resetting them would fix it. It slowly learned the misfire as normal, so yes it corrected it. Weird huh?
it would seem us DIY'ers may want to buy a few of the older models that match our tool stock & ability levels while their still available.to many of us, the future car market will be much MORE than our incomes can permit.& GOD forbid you need a MAJOR repair with newer vehicles while STILL making payments on them.nearly IMPOSSIBLE by current wage standards as it is now.
@@tschuuuls486 Well no, it can't. You don't have to jump through 27 procedural hoops to clear a code. Very simple on mine. You change the part and the light goes out.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics says sorry in European :D A lot of mid/high end European cars had electric throttle in the late 90s. VW, Mercedes, BMW, Opel etc. I guess the Japanese brands were more conservative. But those weren't ultra popular here.
It is a little ridiculous that the car can't just open or close the throttle to get the desired RPM and just relearn that over time up to some max value.
You cannot rebuild j series lol you have to replace them with a used JDM unit or buy a brand new one from Honda why this customer would buy one from RockAuto is beyond comprehension
Ty Ivan for fixing my dads truck! Next time we wont clean the throttle body! Haha
And for all those with the negative comments, the truck belongs to an elderly gentleman who went off the “engine oil life %” instead of changing it every 3-4k miles.
And Rock Auto unfortunately was the only choice $ wise to buy a rebuilt engine from during the pandemic. 🤦🏻♂️
My pleasure to help out! Hopefully the 2nd engine lasts a good long time 🙂🤞
Btw, was doing some research. The engine was rebuilt by ATK and sold under RockAutos name as Famous Brand.
Beats taking chances with a wrecking-yard engine.@@medic8890
@@medic8890 - Just ignore the idiots who act like they've never made a mistake in their life! They have nothing better to do anyway except act like armchair warriors!
I tell everyone I know Engine oil life percentage will bite you. Change your oil every 5,000 or less or six months.
Yes indeed, check your oil. Especially if you have a Kia Soul. At about 70,000 miles, ours started using massive oil (about 3 quarts between oil changes). Kia says this is normal... We brought it up to them several times. Our warranty is now gone so we are stuck with it now. I'll never get another Kia. Thank God I always check oil regularly, in all my vehicles.
A lot of manufacturers say this is normal. It's not. But a reliable oil burner is no big deal
@@_RiseAgainst until it burns through an exhaust valve LOL
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics that's where you come in!
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics
How about it. Thats why I'll never get another Kia. If they would have fixed it, maybe I would have a different opinion of them.
@@_RiseAgainst
At least he is close to my location. State College is only about a 30 minute drive from Lock Haven, where I'm at.
Multiple variants of the 2006 Pilot engine. FWD had Variable Cylinder Management, a garbage system at the time with massive engine ring issues. Subject to Honda service improvement. AWD didn't have VCM, so a totally different engine.... Easy to mix up.
That vehicle looked very clean. I am happy to hear it's running strong again.
I've lost count of all the happy customers that you dealt with. There must be a gold 🏅 🥇 medal award in the offing somewhere. Congrats on doing a great job and going the extra mile to make people happy, especially for the long distance no hopers.
I'm on my lunch break from my mobile HV/EV auto tech job, happy watching Ivan do his work lol
Fair play - that has to be one of the best customer vehicle histories I have ever seen.
well it only started once the engine blew up so...better late than never :)
If the TP REL value is to high it is because there is a dead spot in the tp sensor and the pcm keeps moving it to find a known good value and if the TPREL values goes above a certain percentage it will throw that 2279 code. the known repair for this is a new throttle body. it is always a good idea to try the free fixes first and prepare the customer that a throttle body may be in their future. Happy Days
I have a 2007 version of that same truck. I had a cracked fitting for the coolant passage that's on the bottom of the throttle body. And I had a hell of a time trying to get a used replacement throttle body to learn. I went through all the proper procedures 5 times. It just wouldn't take. So, I wound up scavenging the coolant fittings off the replacement throttle body and put them on my old one. Cleaned it up real nice and did the throttle relearn process again. It took the first try.
By the way Ivan. I had that same minor fish bite misfire on mine too. Turned out to be tight valves. Those things are super picky with valve clearances. To tight = misfire. To lose = loud lifter tap.
set the valves a gnat's eyelash on the loose side of specs. It'll run right and you probably will never have to set them again.
@@adotintheshark4848 Good plan. I think I may have set them to a moose's eyelash over spec. But I just got a set of long reach angled gauges. I'm going to readjust them again this weekend.
I have a question to something I have never seen happen before. How can a valve lash grow on the intake side and shrink on the exhaust side? Is this normal for a J series Honda V6?
the valve lash should shrink on both sides. As the seat wears the valve sits higher in the head, reducing clearance. If the clearance isn't brought back to specs, the valve stays open too long and can burn.@@Sandmansa
@@adotintheshark4848 That is what in theory should happen. Valve lash should shrink over time from valve seat wear. But from what I have been reading, it seems that it's fairly common on the J35 engine, that the intake valve lash can grow. I'm not sure how, but I'm guessing due to cam shaft or follower wear maybe? When I did the valve lash on my truck a couple of weeks ago, I only did the exhaust side. 4 out of 6 cylinders were really tight. But checked the intake side by feel to make sure they had reasonable clearance. I know I should have checked them properly, but I was in a rush at the time. I re-lashed all the valves today and the exhaust side was still good at .013. But the intake was .013 to .016. It should have been .009 at best.
Samething is with idle learning on honda 1.5dsi engines its a pain to get it done.you have to be more stubborn and keep doing it untill it says done..what a pain in the neck....nice work sir..cheers
Good video! On the early GM's you had to do an idle re-learn whenever the battery was disconnected. All you had to do was start the engine, and hold your foot on the brake for 5 minutes. Most of the time it only took a minute or so.
you also had to hook a scanner to the AC system and sweep the actuators or it would blow hot on one side or the other.
my friend had an L300 wagon and his battery died, after he replaced it it was running funny so he took it to the shop before I knew about it. they charged him an hour time to do the idle relearn which was probably just that, holding the brake pedal for five minutes 🙄
not too long after the timing belt broke and grenaded the engine since saturn decided to use an interference engine in their infinite wisdom. which was too bad because it was his grandma's car in near new condition with barely more than 110k on it.
I forgot to say it has to be in drive also. If that was the case they could have performed the idle learn in the parking lot!@@nickaa827
Honda has taught me that in order to do anything, everything must be perfect. It annoys me endlessly! Want to initialize a new park sensor, but your turbo wastegate actuator position sensor is faulty? Nope! Not today! LOL
Really good find on this one, Ivan!! Research is just so, so, SO important! :D
Pretty soon you won’t be able to wash your car without a scan tool to reset something. It’s getting out of hand
Great diagnostic and repair, Ivan! Very stubborn car, but you were even more 🙂 Good catch on the valve seating suggestion - car should be perfect now.
Doing an engine on an Odyssey next week, same engine I believe. Fuel trim, idle learn and sometimes crank learn are important with any major engine repair, just like transmissions. :)
Interesting that the customer was able to provide a detailed history of the vehicle, but couldn't be bothered to check the oil.
Maybe it started to use oil suddenly ?
My money is on the customer not being a car guy...but luckily the customer's brother has been helping him out with the situation.
apparently the owner started to care and document service only AFTER a costly engine replacement.
As a guy who sells lawnmowers as a hobby I can tell you that people truly think oil lasts forever in an engine.
Good point lol!
Now I have valve clearance in the back of my head from you and jakes videos. Great to know service info and procedure. Toyotas are mostly manually reset with a similar warm up and rpm hold. Too bad there isn’t just a screw on all TB and the pcm would just go along with where you set it.
Definitely, Josiah! Not many cars have manual valve adjustment anymore, so very easy to overlook that variable! 🙂
Similar problem on my 2006 Odyssey with 3.0 JDM engine swap. All kind of problems to include same code and high idle. Redid upper and lower intake manifold gaskets (ouch). New PCV. Did nothing. Utubed all fixes, nothing until someone said they used a Foxwell NT510 scanner. That is obsolete so bought the replacement which was NT530. Cannot remember exactly what I did but the scanner was fantastic. Fixed everything within 15 minutes and been running a year without problem. Like you said the key is to have HDS level scanner. Well this scanner is Honda specific (you have to chose one make) and was $160. Appears mirror capability of HDS.
By the way I have several scanners, which gives me some perspective in choosing the best for the money. Neither of my other two, Innova 5160 and OTC Genisys Sys 4, would do anything for the Honda. Both supposedly should have. Yet the cheaper Foxwell NT530 was great. Point being is if you are having scanner level problems with your car, bite the bullet and get a scanner specific for your make of car. That way you are getting something close to OEM capability. I love my Foxwell and if I upgrade will go for one of their models.
Only 4 intake valve seats were ok when the customer had them checked? Wow mate! You picked it in one champ! 👏👏
You also chose well with the reset procedure not having been done correctly! Two outa two! 😃👍💢💥💯😎
Yup 2 separate issues... Guess the reman engine needed valve adjustment after only 15k miles 🙄
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics
I would think that should have been checked prior to shipping the engine to whoever installed it. Usually a good rebuild does not need a valve adjustment.
Last time I had done a valve adjustment was on my 74 Chevrolet El Camino that had about 175,000 on the original engine. That was maybe 35 years ago.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics
L
@@cclngthrI'm sure your El Camino is a bit more tolerant.
Maybe the new guy did it, or it was done on a friday.
You will always be one of the best. Nobody supersedes over you!
Nice catch Ivan. Good tip to the customer about the valves so he could fine-tune their adjustment!
No rest for the wicked?
Thanks for all your time, effort & wisdom!
Ваня привет!!!!!! Как круто ты делаешь все тесты авто !!!!!! Молодец как всегда !!!!!!!
These things are oil burners for sure. Put a engine in one around 2018. Its been solid but does burn a little bit. Check your oil halfway between intervals if you own one.
Honda VTEC-i engines cut off cylinder firing to save gas. It is main cause of oil burning. I put a device that attaches to the coolant sensor that fools the computer into not turning on the cylinder cutout feature. Called a Muzzler or something like that. It has been wonderful, engine runs smooth and have not had engine burning problems. I use a bit more gas, but I avoid all the problems caused by the cutout system. Also I would experience what felt like transmission mis-shifts with the VTEC-i system that made it feel like the transmission was going out. It was the cutout system. Google Honda engine problems to see what I am referring too.
@@Lloyd-z3q That is actually not what the VTEC system does….at all.
you are the man its amazing the cars you fix and not use any parts us parts changers would have changed the throttle body or tps
They might have given a lot of info but it was a lot of wrong info. RockAuto has never sold complete engines Honda's, they've sold rebuild kits but not short blocks. Maybe they got a head? And they definitely didn't do the OEM relearn. As Honda owner, doing it without a Honda specific scan tool is a real PITA (as you found out). I had to leave the car unplugged for at least an hour before the PCM reset itself for a relearn, a few minutes doesn't do it.
They did sell short blocks- back in 2020
I wonder what a good old fashioned vacuum gauge will read ? That method can tell alot ! Just gotta know how to read it !
I cleaned the throttle body on my 2010 CRV a month ago and removed the battery for 10 minutes and do the 3K RPM rev and it works fine. No check engine light.
It seems like the earlier systems aren't as smart.
Yes, you have to reset the throttle body parameter if you take it out or clean the throttle plate!
Yes, I had my mechanic clean the throttle body and the idle was crap, it was kicking when let go of the gas pedal, shifting bad. He did not do the relearn procedure. I got a different mechanic with Good Autel to do the relearn and it did it the first time, now the Honda 1.8L, 2006 is like new. Thanks. I have tried that as well, I saw that procedure on the net, where Autel was not needed, only disconnect the battery for 15 min. But it did not work. Thanks.
Always great videos Ivan. Thank you.
You can try cleaning out the IAC, as they get dirty/clogged.
BTW, these engines are picky about the valve lash getting too tight .. thx for sharing the customer’s feedback.
and tight lash can burn the valves and as the miles go the lash will become tighter.. I set mine just on the loose side of specs..
Like let the man do his own diagnostic he doesn’t need help from anybody else. He’ll figure it out himself. He’s very good at it he don’t need wannabes or if they think they know or thrown ideas in there he’ll figure it out. It’s not his first rodeo, he’s not gonna listen to somebody’ssuggestion he’s gonna do it the way he wants
Yes,if the engine has adjustable valve lash that would have to be reset at the first 1000 mile or.1500 kilometre run in service.
My dad got that done with an as new Mitsubishi 4G32 Saturn 1.6 litre engine in his old L300 Express (Delica) van about 30 years ago,it was an as new engine & the people who rebuilt it had to reset the valve lash at the 1500 kilometre service after the engine was run in.
My dad got rid of it & went back to driving Holdens after we got our licences about 25 years ago because we're a Holden family & they're much more durable than a Mitsubishi,he bought the Van when it had done 100,000 kilometres or 60,000 miles with a reconditioned engine fitted & it ended up going by 200,000 kilometres or 120,000 miles,I mean that engine was starting to burn oil when it had done 100,000 kilometres as well but the odometer had clocked over twice (it only went up to 99,999 kilometres) !
Well Done Ivan, your expertise saves another one..
I wonder if you let your air filter get really clogged up and then replace it would you run into the same problem.
Nice video and diagnosis. Looks like everyone is struggling with Hondas right now.
I guess the Honda has a learning disability since it took two days to learn the idle after the reset. 😂😂
Great video Ivan as always.
Great video these trouble codes are not easy to diagnose do you anything about Honda p1399 I have this on 2000 odyssey and random misfire code and all cylinder misfire codes you ever dealt with this issue
Try cleaning the EGR passage. This a common cause of honda misfire. If that does not do it. Then try a valve adjustment.
Interesting..... ive had a misfire on cyl6 for literally over a year now.... halfway through the 3rd oil change.... i use the same brand scanner you use and there's actually a button to force the car to learn it and i think it has 'snap throttle to 3krpm and let off' in it
Well i know ive modified it a ton so ive been doing tons of diag on it because everything has been pretty normal so far, ive done literally everything except check valve lash....
-Engine is in time
-Good compression
-Held compression for at least 5 min (compression leak test)
-swapped and torqued all spark plugs
-swapped all coils
-swapped all injectors
-changed all intake gaskets
-changed air filter
-cleaned and swapped MAP sensor
-switched gas stations, and stepped to 93 for about 500 miles
-changed oil (every 3k, on 3rd change)
-changed suspected bad o2
And ive also been watching the live data graphs and did some recording and there is definitely a phenomenon happening to the front bank and i wonder if it just might be the valves but i dont feel like dealing with it lol...
This is the 2nd engine as the first engine blew up when the mechanic shop over-torqued the timing kit (replaced engine myself and been doing all work myself since) and ive actually got the start of a 3rd engine sitting and ready to be built as a higher-power engine so i dont care too much about this one working except for the fact that i need a baseline tune and data of a good healthy engine to reference...
And no, not looking for anyone to diag it, im pretty sure at this point its the valve terrain..... i just wanted to replace all the free parts first...
And itd be really hard to diag it without all the info ive collected anyway lol.... its literally been a year and around 12k miles or so
New follower from UK here, great videos 👍
Excellent Ivan, I never knew this!!
Dang. The ol' Marquis has a mass airflow sensor and it is a '96. Great video!
Same with my 89 Mazda lol!
Our old Skoda Fabia (basically a golf wagon) from 2005 has the opposite issue. It loves to calibrate the throttle body and relearn the idle. It does that immediately on cold start. Well, the alternator and battery is a bit tired. When it's cold out and you want to drive off (lights on), it throws a code along the lines of throttle body relearn canceled, voltage to low. But it STORES the broken value. Resulting in extreme surging and no throttle response. Connect a scanner, press relearn it learns in 3 seconds just fine and works again for half a year. Annoying quirk :D
Nissans idle air learn can be a pain as well
Yep. Oil is cheap, but without changing it every 3000 to 4000 miles or 6 months whichever comes first, ENGINES are expensive!
Even if the Negative battery cable is disconnected from the battery and connected and held to the positive cable, some vehicles still need the Diagnostic scan tool to follow procedures.
I always smoke test every Honda that comes in the door with any induction related issues before doing anything else. The rubber boots on most of these motors tend to deteriorate at a higher rate than any other manufacturer. One minute it can be fine, and the next minute it's swiss cheese.
Same in my realm of BMWs. I have had a cars be fine and pull back into the parking lot with the check engine light for a lean condition and lo and behold there's a tear somewhere. I'm extremely curious why a smoke check was bypassed with such a fault. Not to jinx it, but I don't really believe its just a throttle relearn problem. When I was doing all makes and models, Hondas never gave me this kind of issue relearning it's throttle body. We seriously have one engine in BMWs that is so difficult with it's relearn procedure that the tiniest and I'm talking micro leak will not allow a relearn. When it fails it's relearn you know there is 100% guaranteed an air leak or mechanical issue hiding in the engine bay.
@@youutartur1104BMW- Fix It Again Tony. Eh?
If the TSB says to reset the PCM with the HDS to clear the DTC, you should do it PDQ and ASAP.
Old Chrysler caravan with the Mitsubishi 3.0L after cleaning Throttle body you have to reset with the DBR3 scan tool, IAS motor reset if not reset idle would be at 1300 rpm not at factory spec of 750rpm
Awesome videos. Great information. Which think tool scanner do you use? I'm shopping for one and stuck between think tool or autel maxi pro mp 808 with tpms
Ivàn:- always coming through with Great fixs!🎉
I have a Honda Pilot around that year, paint is shot needs an interior but mechanically it is stout, timing belts, trans, brakes rear end etc.. I would drive it anywhere
Exhaust valves too tight, something to consider next time.
Thanks for the video Ivan.
Thanks is that the same procedure for the Honda Element 2.4 engine 😮
What I'm curious in is why you didn't smoke check it? Personally I would have made sure it really is free of leaks before attempting anything, I wouldn't even trust trims if I had a fault like this that is so clear in it's title. The engine was replaced, it's easy to overlook one tiny detail on a large job like that.
I am betting the engine did not have an vacuum leak. Speaking from experience, my 2006 Odyssey played the same trick on me. Making me change upper and lower intake gaskets. Total waste of time. In my case I had a higher idle rpm that tricked the engine computer into thinking it was vacuum related. Wasted two weeks on Utube fast fixes. Only thing that cured it was buying Honda specific scan tool Foxwell NT 530. You have to chose a specific make when you buy it. Did idle relearn and a couple of other things and it cured everything.
@@Lloyd-z3q What I'm saying is I've relearned vehicles with definite problems, and they're happy even for a year with that problem I learned into it. If you changed upper and lower gaskets (seemingly) to chase an idle fault you really had no basis on changing them other than a hunch. That's fine for a diy, but in my opinion a diagnosis covers your ass on all fronts. If the customer asked if there was a vacuum leak you can't answer no, because you don't know if there was because you didn't check it. The light turns on, they decide to have ol Ricky Bobby down the road look at it and they find a vacuum leak and your reputation just took a hit. I don't know, for me the reputation of leaving no questions unanswered is worth 5 minutes of a smoke check. I have very intelligent customers come randomly and after their diagnosis they always have a question "Hey dont you think it could have been the relay beca-" Ill stop you right there, I made sure to check your relay. It is not your relay, your problem was an open winding in the fresh air pump, do you want to see the waveform? Just my two cents. PHAD is very good, not knocking him.
I always check map voltage at hot idle on Hondas. Tight valves will give you over .95v
Crazy when you cant do a simple throttle body clean
You can. Just need to follow the instructions. 😆
Many videos online claiming you can trigger TPS relearn without scan tool.
Foxwell NT530 for Honda can trigger relearn $170
Amen. My NT530 Honda specific is the best investment I have ever made. None of my more expensive scanners would do anything for the Honda. Key is to have a Honda specific scanner. I was almost ready to junk my 2006 Odyssey until someone suggested the earlier version NT510, so bought the newer NT530 and have not regretted it.
I’ve found a vacuum leak at the plenum “hat” (plenum top cover, old gasket bits .. bad seal, causing leak) on this engine using propane.
I have two old Hondas. A 2006 Civic and a 2010 Odyssey. I check and top up the oil every 20% on the oil life and change it at 100% (which is normally at about 5-6k miles). The "oil life" is not an indication of oil level. Honda could do a better job educating their customers because the maintenance minder "oil life" does give a false sense of security. Although they're clear about in the need to check and top up the oil level in the user manual. One of my old Hondas, the 2006 Civic, with 246k miles, consumes 2+ quarts of oil per oil change interval. It would be off the stick if I didn't top it up periodically. Also BTW you can clean a Honda throttle body without throwing off the calibration by simply putting the ignition on position "II" and fully depressing the accelerator pedal. That will open the butterfly valve. Then just reach in and clean it. I just spray some throttle body cleaner on an old toothbrush and reach in and give it a gentle scrub. Then followup with a paper towel wrapped around the end of the brush. Honda say to avoid hosing down the butterfly hinges because it will wash away their lubrication. No risk of that if you use a brush and minimal cleaner. Personally, I don't think it's even terribly important. I've done it exactly once for each car. I would only do it of the intake is already apart for some other reason. There was never much to clean. Just a thin surface coating of black carbon looking dirt.
Nice Mary figure on dash ❤
good call
Manufactures making it harder all the time to do some preventative maintenance.
I believe there was a engine recall, seen cylinders scored, same wth mdz
I have a 2004 Lotus Elise that uses an older Toyota engine and its throwing a code P0507 Idle control system RPM higher than expected.
I replaced a split vac hose and cleaned the throttle body and idle valve.
Idle speed is ok and it runs well, this code may stay off for a few days then returns.
Im wondering does the throttle need to be re calibrated similar to this one.
I mostly fix my BMW m5 2006 I purchased the Autel MS908 works OK but the update cost is high. Lately got a 02 bank 1 code tried to fined 02 live graph but now has nothing very strange. Can you recommend a good scanner?
16:21 Maybe need to do valve adjustment.
Hondas require valve adjustment every 90k, they dont have hydraulic lifters.
@@rhollyday Did not know that...
I know somebody like this, they can't be bothered to check the oil, he says if it needs oil the oil light will come on, he changes it once a year whether it needs it or not, it's a 2016 passat. So last spring he needed brakes and rotors all around, when I visit him and we go somewhere he tries to use the brakes as little as possible because he doesn't want to have to do another brake job, I wish I was making it up but it's the God's honest truth, he does have a bad case of OCD which might be a factor.
Hey Ivan, what's the model number to your ThinkPad ? I'm ready for a better scanner . Thanks .
Good to know - thx
Hey ivan, what model Launch are you using?
So how long did it take for this vehicle to do the TB relearn? My Nissan does the same as this Honda did and I've let it learn for 30 minutes and still never says learned.
Probably 20 minutes. Nissans are usually about 2 minutes with a proper scanner 👍
That engine looks identical to my 2018 MDX.
That's a crazy amount of things to memorize and do just for an idle relearn. I blame Honda here.
Wow I didn't even watch the whole video and had a feeling the valves where to tight. When the intakes are tight it is creating an "air leak"
In the Toyota case, you can clean the throttle body and the computer will just relearn the angles after a few drive cycles. Honda obviously makes the process too complicated.
What kind of scanner did you use to do the relearn procedures
Hi buddy I am working on 2007 VW New Beetle 2.5 having problem with brake pressure sensor code p1435 do you have some idea?
Hondas are funny, I had one i did a cylinder head (Used a memory saver this is key) because a piece of cylinder 2 exhaust valve was burned away. after repair It started setting a #2 misfire on a perfectly running engine. After 3 hours of swearing and throwing tools, it occurred to me Honda has adaptives in the engine computer, and maybe resetting them would fix it. It slowly learned the misfire as normal, so yes it corrected it. Weird huh?
it would seem us DIY'ers may want to buy a few of the older models that match our tool stock & ability levels while their still available.to many of us, the future car market will be much MORE than our incomes can permit.& GOD forbid you need a MAJOR repair with newer vehicles while STILL making payments on them.nearly IMPOSSIBLE by current wage standards as it is now.
Awesome
This is exactly why I run a car from 2000.
This exact thing could happen to any engine with electronic throttle control which includes most cars in 2000.
@@tschuuuls486 Well no, it can't. You don't have to jump through 27 procedural hoops to clear a code. Very simple on mine. You change the part and the light goes out.
@@jaygold4467This is why I have a 91 mechanically injected diesel, no electronics, no CEL, no bullshit 😊
@@tschuuuls486 in 2000 only Euros and maybe a few high end cars had electronic throttle... Good old fashioned cable for everyone else! 😉
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics says sorry in European :D A lot of mid/high end European cars had electric throttle in the late 90s. VW, Mercedes, BMW, Opel etc. I guess the Japanese brands were more conservative. But those weren't ultra popular here.
Why are you in 3rd gear drive ??
❤❤❤❤❤
If they ran it low on oil. It will happen again. It's just a fact I've seen many times
2006 and only MAP, no MAF? That's 1980s tech, I thought everyone went to MAF by the 00s
Engine oil is very much expensive than to change the engine
And if that doesn't work time to call Scotty Kilmer 🤪
With his "dealer level scan tool"? 😆
$1000 in repairs after a US remanufactured engine swap. Best to stick with Japanese rebuilds, save money in the long run.
looks like the owner"s jesus from the dash could not fix it for him lolol
Funny, “Jesus” looks a lot like Mother Mary. Stay blessed!
@@medic8890 either way is BS!!
Find Jesus, He will help you! 😊
@@medic8890 oh please !!
Its sad to be brainwawhed!
@@summerforever6736 Jesus loves you! 😉
A Honda burning oil !? really!!? I have never heard such a thing i my whole life. 🤣🤣🤣🤣
My e36 leaks a small bit but burns no oil at 265,000 miles.....
❤🎉😊
🥰
Invent a phad dongle
That you send to your customers so you can do diag and programming relearn over the internet DIY assists $$$$$$$$$$😁
stay away from post 2005 Hondas. They may drive slightly better than Toyotas but reliability is a mess
It is a little ridiculous that the car can't just open or close the throttle to get the desired RPM and just relearn that over time up to some max value.
Ahahah guess why I own a scanner with bidirectional control
.. i'd charge him double for acting like his Brother fixed it.. 🙄💯🤨
Haha 😄
You cannot rebuild j series lol you have to replace them with a used JDM unit or buy a brand new one from Honda why this customer would buy one from RockAuto is beyond comprehension
Ever try buying a motor during a pandemic? 😂
I am living proof that JDM is he way to go. 2006 Odyssey $545 delivered to my doorstep, 10k miles ago and running fine.
@@Lloyd-z3q sadly most are stolen but I have a JDM r18 with very low mileage that was 900 for the entire drive line 🤣
Fitst
Edit: Dammit!
Cringe. Jump into the nearest running wood chipper
@@ICantBreve I'm already feeling chipper!
@@_RiseAgainst great. All you need to do now is jump in the chipper and you'll be complete
@@ICantBreve it's okay to be jealous I was fitst
@@_RiseAgainst Why would I be jealous of a cuck?