Low Voltage Issue FIXED easy! Funky Battery Wire, NOT Alternator!!
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- Опубліковано 25 вер 2024
- Does your battery keep dying on you? Are you getting low voltage, even with a new alternator? Before you take it to a mechanic or go get a new battery test this first! It maybe a simple fix!
Sometimes cleaning your battery connections can make a huge difference!
In this video Josh investigates a low voltage issue on a truck with a brand new alternator and finds the culprit right under his nose!!
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Mahalo!
Having similar issue with my 2016 f150 so I’ll check your suggestion. New subscriber here and I like your common sense and no drama approach!
I got this video recommended to me the MORNING my battery died 😂😂
Hi. Thanks for the video. For me, when the car is idle, the rpm drops too low and the battery light flickers, recently changed the alternator and battery. Also at that moment car starts shaking. The battery light is always dim (on, but not full brightness) after changing the alternators. Any idea why this might happen?
yep
Did you check voltage on your alternator while engine it's on with alternator unplugged?
So while I understand a little about being careful so the wrench doesn't contact the body, no one ever really explains why. If you do this, can it cause permanent damage? How, and how do you diagnose and fix? Also, your comment about the tight connection in relation to oxidation was new to me. How do you prevent it? Some say the connections are super important, but don't tell you how to clean everything and them the big one, prevent it. No one ever really explains these basic things. I've watched so many videos about using a multimeter and testing, now know how to read wiring diagrams, all the basic terms and concepts, but still feel like I am missing something. Thanks for this video.
I've been told that arcing the positive to a ground can send an over voltage through the electrical system and potentially blow modules. I've never had that happen but better safe than sorry considering how expensive some of them can be. And if done long enough it can also cause the contact points to be welded together/cause burns. I can't assume that is good for the battery. Having a tight connection is important to prevent corrosion because it basically creates a cold weld by the contact points being so tightly smashed together that they do not allow oxygen to penetrate between them. If air can't get to the copper it will not oxidize thus creating resistance just like the sheathing on The wire prevents. It's exactly how a crimp works as well.
You aren't probably missing anything besides getting into the "high specification spectrum" that recquires you to understand many fundamentals to the point you understand why sometimes its better to not say it briefly if you wont explain it fully.
Example: Why the wrench can't contact the "body"?
The body / chassi / metal parts are usually direct linked to the negative pole of the main battery, "ground" was also a way to specify some link that will end up in the negative battery terminal, even if not directly physically linked to it (straight wire).
For example: in some cars the positive terminal of the battery will go to the starter and the negative terminal will be linked to the chassi of the car, making anything that also connecting to the chassi linked to the negative terminal (imagine as If the car is a highway and the negative terminal is the asphalt, whatever goes into the main road or that have asphalt inside it is linked to it).
This is why if your wrench touch the body there is a problem, the wrench as a metalic item will act as a shortcut for the electrical flow from the + to -, making an short circuit in easier terms and also probably giving and eletrocutation if the one wielding the wrench isnt isolated by gloves/etc (any isolant material).
Permanent damage? Yes/no, it will depends upon the circuit, resistance, etc, because the primary event was an short circuit...
But to understand those fully you need to have some teorical background and at some point you become liable for speaking / explaining if the final audience does something wrong...
Great videos! Nice find and fix in this one.
Looks like this is the same truck where you serviced the battery and replaced the alternator in prior videos. When that alternator was tested in the prior video you tested directly on the battery posts, which made it look like the alternator was bad. Maybe the alternator wasn't bad after all? In this video you solved that connection issue at the battery terminal, so do you have second thoughts about previously replacing the alternator?
Good eye! Yes I ended up taking the new alternator out and trying the original and with the cleaned terminal the old one was just fine.
It was helpfull! I have a problem with my elantra, charging and not and had a lot of corrosion on post and terminals. Have new terminals will install tomorrow hope clears my problem.Brand new alternator after market and battery.
Thank you! 👏🏼👏🏼 your videos are very helpful
Glad you like them!
I got replaced the terminals (2000 Toyota sienna). However, with A/C, front and back fans on, the voltage fluctuate and drops to 11.7V. Alternator was replaced 3 times with reman version. Last one from Denso. Hot wire that comes from alternator was replaced also. Battery DieHard 750CCA brand new. Any ideas?
ye any ideas
Did you check voltage on your alternator while engine it's on with alternator unplugged?
@@Abnesis You unplug alternator, your car will switch engine to battery power at best, in worth case scenario you risk to burn your fuses, the main one at least for sure, and engine will likely stall. The test you thought off doesn't make any sense anyway. If alternator is new or reman, it will show 14 volts without load. It's bad idea to test alternator that way. My guess at some power distribution the end load (unit) may give a short circuit. Here is a voltage drop. Possibly but less likely some hot wires sheath went bad and touching car chassis. It happened sadden in Nevada +40C heat at night during Vegas trip. Big bummer. Usually semiconductors responsible for such unpredictable voltage behavior. But Voltage regulator is a part of alternator and I went through 3 alternators. BTW, interior lights still flicker when car is running - sign of alternative current, which again - can't be, since rectifier was replaced along with alternator.
Been in the same predicament and issue here on the mainland (New England).
I have a question! During hot summer days in the middle east the car starts to overheat 108-111C when i use the AC on max even if it is night, but i tried put ac on 1 only! And it did work! 3hrs on a hot day with temp below 95C which is great!..
When it overheats i notice the voltage drops from 13.4 to 12.5..
Is oveaheating related to low voltage?
Found the solution?
Same
What if the connectors are a part of the wiring?
Thank you so much for this video. I have been struggling for weeks regarding the voltage drop from my battery terminals. I changed the alternator, battery, and finally found the issue with the ground connection from the negative battery terminal to the body of the car! Thanks again!
Yes ! Helpful.
Any solutions for this?
thanks...exactly what i have going on.
Yes it was helpful ! ❤
I have a 2015 Dodge Grand Caravan with a brand new alternator but when I disconnect the hot battery terminal it completely dies. I have a MaxiCOM reader that I plugged into it while I was driving it and it gave me 13.7 but when I stop and it's idling and remove the hot wire terminal the car dies completely. What do you think the problem could be?
Figure it out?
Isn’t the red one supposed to always be the first one put on and the last one taken off?
@@TheRoadLessChosenI figured the problem. I had to replace the whole tipem fuse box. It's working fine now but this is the last time I would ever buy a dodge or chrysler.
Nice
Oh goodie.....another dirty connection vid.