Interesting idea. I'll have to give that a try. Generally I just find a strong double, shake all the bees into the bottom box then separate the two boxes with a queen excluder. Then I'll go find 8 frames of brood from other hives and swap them into the top box. After 10 days I come back and move the bottom box to a new location, throw a lid and a bottom on what was the top box. That afternoon I drop grafts along with feed and a pollen frame. Seems to do the trick.
This is a really good series on the whole concept of queen rearing. I like how you ask the questions to Cory and then you go back and reiterate what he said to help reinforce the process that he explained. In the next video he will talk about his process of introducing queens. I followed those steps and had 100% success and I will continue to use his method. I know your viewers will find his method very interesting when he talks about it in the next video. Keep up the great work!
Very very good video. Thanks to Cory for sharing his insight and you for asking the right questions. Cory is 100% spot on. That is the right way to build queen cells. I gotta add that I have some of Cory's queens and they have proven he is right. I will be grafting from them and buying more as needed.
I am looking at grafting my first queen cells tomorrow, so great timing Nathan. Your content is always well considered and Cory is a great choice as an information source. Well done.
spot on Cory is spot on a hive ready to sworm makes the best cells u can ad brood on the third round and keep going if u can't find another hive ready to sworm just remember to check for queen cells in the brood frames u put in the next week and so on and on thanks Nathan good stuff brother.
With such a long brood break built into this method, I wonder if it's actually giving him a longer time line in selecting for the desired traits. It seems like a good portion of the colonies are going brood less every year for extended periods, and while that's a good integrated pest management technique, it's creating a low mite population by default, correct? So how exactly would you be sure it's not just an exceptionally bred queen because of the attention she's getting in an environment that has low mites, instead of a great queen with the specific genetic traits of mite management? Amazing content, and even better that you're in middle TN, makes the information much more relevant.
Nathen, you just keep hitting it out of the park. What a great interview with Cory, picking that sharp young mind. Thanks for all you do and have a great weekend.
Have you ever tried killing the swarm cells by turning the brood supers upside down. It works but you need to do it once a week if its queenright. Killing Unmarked dark queens i suit up and empty all the brood frames with bees in a heap on the ground, i shake the frames off one by one onto the heap and place them back in the super that is placed on a near by hive lid ,when thats done i place the excluder on the bottom board put back the brood super and in a day all the bees are back working away they know the queen is stuck on the bottom board so you may need to shift her but not laying she loses feramone and i cant all ways find her maybe they kill her? Am i the only one to admit to being this rough on my bees?
One mic died so I had to salvage audio from a backup mic. That brought in some background and wind noise. Apologies for that, it’s the best I can do.
I like the way you and Cory roll! Great video thanks for sharing!
A strategy stacked with common sense
Thanks for stopping by Ian.
Hi Nathan. Great food for thought. Sound was good. Thanks.
Thanks Bob. I was thinking just yesterday that I need to call and check in on you. Hope you’re doing well.
Interesting idea. I'll have to give that a try. Generally I just find a strong double, shake all the bees into the bottom box then separate the two boxes with a queen excluder. Then I'll go find 8 frames of brood from other hives and swap them into the top box. After 10 days I come back and move the bottom box to a new location, throw a lid and a bottom on what was the top box. That afternoon I drop grafts along with feed and a pollen frame. Seems to do the trick.
Sounds like you’ve got a good system figured out.
This is a really good series on the whole concept of queen rearing. I like how you ask the questions to Cory and then you go back and reiterate what he said to help reinforce the process that he explained. In the next video he will talk about his process of introducing queens. I followed those steps and had 100% success and I will continue to use his method. I know your viewers will find his method very interesting when he talks about it in the next video. Keep up the great work!
Thanks James!
One of the best video series I have seen!
Thanks Adam
Learned some good things, which I'll try in the spring! Many thanks.
Thanks Paul!
Thanks for the excellent content…. Exactly what I’m looking for and enjoy.
Thanks Gary!
thanks for all the good tips and content.
Thanks Dennis!
Very very good video. Thanks to Cory for sharing his insight and you for asking the right questions. Cory is 100% spot on. That is the right way to build queen cells. I gotta add that I have some of Cory's queens and they have proven he is right. I will be grafting from them and buying more as needed.
Thanks Kenneth!
Wow. I am wowed by the information you put out every time. Thank you.
Thanks Matt!
Wow...this is gold.
Thanks!
Really enjoying this series. Many thanks to you and Cory!
Thanks!
I am looking at grafting my first queen cells tomorrow, so great timing Nathan. Your content is always well considered and Cory is a great choice as an information source. Well done.
Thanks, I appreciate it.
spot on Cory is spot on a hive ready to sworm makes the best cells u can ad brood on the third round and keep going if u can't find another hive ready to sworm just remember to check for queen cells in the brood frames u put in the next week and so on and on thanks Nathan good stuff brother.
Thanks Mark
💯Let the bees tell you whats up and do the work for you.🤯🥳More please🤔a wealth of information.👍
Thanks!
Have you tried marking the queen with metallic numbered tags, so that you can pick up the queen even without seeing her
With such a long brood break built into this method, I wonder if it's actually giving him a longer time line in selecting for the desired traits. It seems like a good portion of the colonies are going brood less every year for extended periods, and while that's a good integrated pest management technique, it's creating a low mite population by default, correct? So how exactly would you be sure it's not just an exceptionally bred queen because of the attention she's getting in an environment that has low mites, instead of a great queen with the specific genetic traits of mite management? Amazing content, and even better that you're in middle TN, makes the information much more relevant.
Harbo assays are pretty accurate in the presence of mite loads.
Nathen, you just keep hitting it out of the park. What a great interview with Cory, picking that sharp young mind. Thanks for all you do and have a great weekend.
Thanks Russell!
Duck river honey are you running Cory’s genetics ?
Not yet, but I plan to. I like what he’s doing, makes a lot of sense to me.
Have you ever tried killing the swarm cells by turning the brood supers upside down. It works but you need to do it once a week if its queenright.
Killing Unmarked dark queens i suit up and empty all the brood frames with bees in a heap on the ground, i shake the frames off one by one onto the heap and place them back in the super that is placed on a near by hive lid ,when thats done i place the excluder on the bottom board put back the brood super and in a day all the bees are back working away they know the queen is stuck on the bottom board so you may need to shift her but not laying she loses feramone and i cant all ways find her maybe they kill her?
Am i the only one to admit to being this rough on my bees?
No I have t tried that.