Just traded my Solution for a V3 31 a month ago. Solution had a problem that the dealer rectified but I couldn't get myself to trust it. SO,,,,,I went to the dark side (since I still own 2 other Bowtech's), My V3 is a tackdriver and is giving about 7fps more than the Solution with the same arrow (277fps on 496gr 5mm Axis). I did have to change the grip, even tried it bare riser but now have a UV on it. I completely agree on the feel. That long ATA feels a LOT more like my 38 ATA 3D bow than a hunting bow. I think the long riser really reduces your tendency to torque. Great review, no fluff, just facts. Keep it up.
Seriously the most informative bow review I've seen. Details and information NO OTHER VIDEO anywhere has given. Like about the mod and cams other videos don't mention because apparently they don't do the research on the bows like you have apparently done. I would love to see you do a review on the Elite Ritual and your thoughts on that cam and mod set up. And the options. 👍👍🏹🏹
Hey Josh, I hope you make more videos in the future in all archery things. can you tune the V3 easy from L&R. I am right handed with that have eye issues so I have to have the adjustment the tuning to the left and even then I can't touch the string to my nose or I will lose the target in my right eye. I have a bow tech Zion and I am not satisficed with accuracy, so I am am looking to the perfect bow. V3 seems to be the best bow I've seen. One more question. Is the draw weight set with the specific module you us. so there would be a #60 MOD, #65 MOD AND OR #70 MOD. OR are they all adjustable?
Draw weight is set with the mod but can also be adjusted with the limb bolt. 60, 65, 70, 75 mods along with the limb bolt adjustments to lower it from the peak mod setting. Yes, you could tune a left or right handed bow the same way, but some of the adjustments are switched with the direction you use for the adjustment.
Just ordered my V3 31”. I am coming off the Triax. I’m ready for a 31. I’m a 28” draw. Ordered it in elevated 2 with 80% let off. The Rest of choice for me is the Hamskea Trinity hunter pro. After 12-13 years I’m finally done with the QAD’s.
I shot them both yesterday and I think the 31 is the bow I’ll be shooting. Such a smooth draw cycle I feel like compared to the VXR. The 27 is no slouch just too steep of a strong angle for me.
I cant believe its only 336 ibo at 6" brace ht! My expedition has a 6.5" brace and its a 355 ibo!!! Still, i DO like the isea of a 27" ata. I had a z7xreme at 28" ata and it was awesome
Awesome video! I just watched some of your beginner archery content too. I'm newer to bowhunting and picked up the VXR 31.5, but thinking I should have got the 28" or waited for the V3 27". My draw length is 26in @ 60lbs. Which ATA length would be best for my draw length and allow me to get the most out of the bow?
Thank you Shayne! Given your draw length, you may find more comfort in the shorter axle to axle bows that you mentioned, but the 31.5 should still fit you very well. I encourage you to shoot the shorter models at a pro shop and see how they feel relative to your VXR 31.5. There is no perfect equation or ratio for brace height, axle to axle, and draw length which are all factors that contribute to string angle. Every archer has their own preferences on what they like the best. You may just find that the 31.5 is the most comfortable for you! - Josh
Very good video. I really like the way you laid it out there. I have a VXR 28. My draw is always been different for each bow I shoot. Anywhere from 27 to 29. I really like this bow and want to shoot it because of the clearance and the roller guard system. So many guys are dog piling on Mathews and never even held the bow yet. My only issue with my VXR was I had to spin my nock so my cock vane was out or shoot 4 vane. Not a deal breaker. So I'm definitely going to go shoot the new 27. If it seems to be better at all I'm gonna probably buy it
Great review as always. Wished they come out with a 33" Switchweight bow. Like my vertix a lot but want to upgrade this year. Maybe the V3 31 or get the VXR31.5. What would you do? Greetings from austria
@Rusty Shackleford the switch weight mods are not compatible with the Traverse. And yes, the draw length would have to be at 34” to get to the 350 fps. With that said, most long draw guys don’t need to worry about speed because of their longer draw length, giving them a longer power stroke giving them more speed.
Thanks for the video! You mentioned top hats being better tuned when not matched with old cable guard, are you able to explain more? I had thought they had to be same top and bottom. What combos of top hats were you finding fixed the asymmetry on the older bows? Thanks again.
In most (not all) of the VXR's I set up, the top hats were not the same on the top and bottom. This has much more to do with the particular limbs than it does with where the cables are pulled from on the roller guard. With that said, the way I look at it, if the top two limbs are identical to the bottom two, with the cables being pulled perfectly centered between the two, it makes sense to me that the cams should have equal cam lean at rest and at full draw. Like I said, I definitely need to do a lot of testing and tuning with these new bows to see if my theory and thought process is correct, as it's merely a guess with my first impressions of the new bow. To answer your question on which top hat combos were best on the older bows, it all comes down to the particular limbs on the bow and the individual shooter themselves. Different grips and grip pressure results in different torque and different top hat configurations to get the bow to tune best to the individual shooter. There is not a certain combo of top hats that I found to work best for a majority of the past bows. They are based on the individual limbs, grip/torque, and shooting style. I hope this gives a better understanding! Thanks, Josh
@@BowOnlyOutdoors wow! Thorough response! Thanks very much, the reason I was asking is that I had my bow tuned for my paper tear with top hats and noticed that the tech had the top cam more middle and bottom off to the left more and had wondered but your explanation makes sense. Thanks again Josh. Looking forward to a setup/tune video if that's in the works
I can make that happen! Hopefully I’m not waiting as long as I did last year to get my bow in. And remember, we always want to tune the bow to how it shoots! Not how it looks. It sounds like your bow technician did everything right. Thanks for the comments and I’m glad you enjoyed the video!
I was going to get the v3 31. But it hurt my thumb. So I got the BOWTECH REVOLT. Wt the deadlock cams. Flip disc tech. Clutch grip. 30inches axle to axle ibo is 335. My draw is 28inches. The BOWTECH is dead in the hand. Fast and accurate
Sad thing about all these bows is that it costs $1200 this year and worth $600 two years from now. That’s because in 2022 they will come out with their best bow ever. And again in 2023, etc etc
Yep, and don’t forget to keep an eye out for the latest and greatest super-dooper x-tra awesome wide cutting broadhead that kills em deader than ever before broadheads. 🤔
This was really good. Appreciate the discussion on efficiency as DL changes for the bows. Curious how that works on draw weight...so if I were to prefer a 60 lb draw weight for example, would I want to purchase a bow that maxes out at 60, 65 or 70 lbs or does it not matter much?
As far as speed efficiency goes, it isn’t much of an effect at all from my testing. With that said, bows with the limbs maxed out tend to generally be quieter and have less vibration that those with the limbs backed out.
@Whopem Harder The Halons did not have the switch weight mod system, however the cams are essentially the same to the new V3 that does have the switch weight mod system. You can put Mathews side plates on the grip to shoot off the riser if you wish as well. - Josh
With the limb bolts tightened all the way down with the 60lb mods, it should draw very close to 60lbs. If you had 70lb mods on for example, yes, you can back off the limbs to back it down to 60lbs.
@@atomicoutdoors8631 Recommended would be 10 lbs so 50lbs. But I have backed them down to roughly 42lbs with 60 lb mods without issues. With the limbs backed out that far, it increases chances for derailing the string, so be careful if you need to back it down that much.
Good job Josh! Regarding bow efficiency, I recently saw a UA-cam video in which they took two bows of two different brands, one of each a 70# dialed down to 63# and one of each a 60# maxed out to 63#. The difference in speed was only about 2-3 fps which is nothing. So I question the idea that the Mathews switch weight cams are all that much more efficient than other bows.
Thank you Doug! The limb bolts being maxed out or backed out don’t have much to do at all regarding efficiency speed wise. Neither does the switch weight technology. That’s more noise and vibration based. It’s the removable mod system instead of a rotating mod system that changes the efficiency of the cams regarding speed. For example, a bow with a removable mod system with a 342 IBO speed and a bow with a rotating mod with an IBO speed of 342 will BOTH shoot 342 at the IBO standards of 30” draw, 70lbs and 350grain arrow. However, when you put the bow with the removable mods at 27” draw length, we lose roughly 30 FPS making the bow shoot at roughly 312 FPS. BUT, with a rotating mod system, if 30 was the peak draw length and you rotate the mod down to 27”, not only do we lose the 30 FPS from the 3” less of draw length, but since the mod is rotating, it is less efficient than a removable mod, so you lose an additional 5-10 FPS on top of the 30 giving you a speed of roughly 302-307 instead of 312. Not a big difference, but a difference none the less. I hope this helps clear it up! - Josh
Can you do a sight in video for a multi pin slider? I know some guys use the bottom for their float pin. How do you move the pointer to that pin? I’ll be using a axcel carbon pro.
It’s on my list of videos to make but I’ll try to do my best to describe it here to help! For example, I run a 5 pin slider sight. I have the slider adjustment set all the way up to the top to represent my “base”. My base means that all of my 5 pins are set 20-60 yards with 60 being my bottom pin. I do not adjust my slider adjustment to sight in the first 5 pins as I want the slider to be all the way at the top, at “base”. Therefore, with the slider at the top, I make a fixed adjustment to the actual sight housing, raising or lowering it so that my top pin (20) is set near the top of the sight housing while the slider is still at base. Once I get all of my pins, 20-60 sighted in perfectly, I can then start on my sight tape adjustments. On a multi pin sight, with a slider adjustment, I always set my bottom pin as the one that represents my pointer on the slider. So in this case, on a 5 pin slider with my bottom pin sighted in at exactly 60 yards when my slider is all the way up, 60 is base and 60 is where the tape STARTS on the top of the slider where the pointer is pointing when it’s at base. A simple and effective way to get your other markings to put on an accurate tape say 60-100 is to use a removable piece of freezer tape or painters tape and make a slight mark next to the pointer with a pencil for 60. As you back up in distance and lower your slider while always aiming with your bottom pin, Mark 70, 80, 90, 100, or whatever your furthest comfortable distance is. The more precise you can be, the better it will be sighted in. Once you have your 60 marked on the tape at base and 100 marked where the pointers at when shooting at this distance, take the yardage tapes that come with the sight and match up the tape that fits perfectly with your marks of 60 and 100. Once you’ve found your tape, cut the tape at 60 to represent “base” at the top of the slider and as you move your slider down, your bottom pin will be sighted in to the exact yard out to your furthest distance that you shot. Past 60 yards, the bottom pin and where it relates to the pointer on your tape is the only reliable aiming point that I would use as a reference as your 4th and 5th pin (50 and 60) at base, will have much less of a drop that when you have your bottom set at 100, the 4th pin does NOT represent 90. I hope this helps and I will make a video on it at some point, but in the mean time, I hope this can help you get it set up! - Josh
Have you by chance got the v3 yet debating on trading my halon 5 in but don’t know if they would be much difference or if it would be worth it I’m a 29in draw myself I’ve always shot the shorter axle to axle idk if I should go with the 27 or 31
Amazing review thanks again! I have a 30.5-31" draw and I'm unsure if I should go v3 at full draw 30.5 or Atlas at 31"... Any help would be so appreciated!!
Thank you! I strongly encourage you to shoot them both to form your own opinion. What I can tell you is that the Atlas will shoot a fair amount slower than the V3, but at your draw length, you will still be shooting fast. In the little bit of shooting I've done with the Atlas, I noticed it to be louder than the v3 as well. I will say however, if the string angle and the feel of the Atlas triumphs the V3 for you at your draw length, I would definitely pick that. Overall feel, fit, and comfortability of the bow is what you will likely find most important long term. Shoot them both and pick whichever one you like best!
I also shot both, and put the Atlas down after 1 shot. Loud ting sound, as a hollow aluminum tube to my best explanation. The 31 is sweet, and smaller, quieter and faster. Shoots my 460 grain arrows at 281 fps. Amazing machine!
@@Knifestories I wasn't able to shoot either before buying as there is no stock of either in Australia. Went for the Atlas with 31 draw. Noise really isn't a concern of mine. smooth draw and the bigger axel to axel is more appealing. I hadn't heard anyone say the Atlas was loud, could maybe have been something off on that bow, who knows
The correct answer is it depends if your local Scheels is a Mathews Dealer or not. You can use the dealer map on Mathew’s website, or just give your local Scheels a call to find out!
@@brandonjernigan1968 I love both of them! I honestly don’t have enough time behind the new V3 to say that I prefer one more than another at this point. I would shoot them both for yourself and see what you like best!
@@BowOnlyOutdoors I just got back from the archery shop. I had to test myself. It will not fit. Boo! Good news, my vertix still rocks. No need for a new bow for me yet.
Why not set the 31 to your draw length before reviewing it? it looks like you were struggling to get it over the hump. 27 looked like it was easier to draw. Complaint on previous switch weight cam bows was they were a stiff draw. Your draw on the 31 reinforced that complaint.
We should have. With the draw being a full 1.5" longer I wasn't used to pulling the extra distance which is what you see in the video. The 27 looked easier to draw because the draw length was shorter, and fit me better. The cam system between the two is exactly the same, so the draw curve is almost identical. It's hard to really know how a bow draws based on watching a video. I encourage you to shoot it to form your own opinion as some folks love the draw, and others don't. It mainly comes down to what you are used to and what you want out of a bow. Again, with the high end bows of today, it's a give and take no matter the brand. If a bow is easier to draw, it simply has less performance. I wouldn't call this draw easy, but I would not call it overly rough or stiff either. As I mention in the video, if you like an easier draw, you can turn the draw weight down and still achieve the same performance out of it as a heavier draw on a slightly slower or lower performing bow (speed wise). Thanks for the comment and I hope this all makes sense! - Josh
I bought the Vertix when it came out. And bought the Traverse in July '20 for a back up. Haven't shot the V3s yet, but have shot the VXR extensively, and there was no reason to upgrade, unless you just like having the newest bow out.
Your description of IBO speed is actually incorrect IBO does NOT have a set draw LENGTH so IF a bow can make 34” of draw length ... manufacturers CAN test speeds there and still claim IBO Arrow weight MUST be measured at 5 grain per pound of draw weight BUT 80# IS allowed w/ a 2# margin for ERROR that you do NOT have to factor into your arrow weight SO ... a manufacturer COULD test a bow ... say the 31 V3 in this case at 30.5”, 82# and a 400 gr arrow and still be IBO compliant. ASA guidelines are MUCH more strict and what MOST people believe is actually IBO
Thank you for correcting me on that! Archery and bowhunting is something that I will ALWAYS be able to continue to learn. I will never know it all. I’m curious as to why IBO is the standard and has been the standard for so long if there’s so much variance. What are your thoughts?
@@BowOnlyOutdoors I believe it has more to do with IBO being the original 3D "bowhunting" organization. They had to find a "standard" for safety ( 5 gr/# arrow weight ) and draw weights that could be used during tournaments. But in those days they still knew the variance in draw lengths so they never addressed draw length in their tournament standard. YEARS later ATA set their guidelines for testing standards that were much more concrete defined. www.rokslide.com/the-truth-in-bow-speed-ata-vs-ibo/
I was wondering about that. I shoot a bowtech reign 7 and its hamds down smoother than any Mathews in the last few years, cant speak for this years release but I assumed it would be stiff like previous years. Mathews felt gritty and stiff to me.
@@rmarc11 "Smooth" never comes to mind when I've shot any of their bows. I hate to be that way but the riser looks good. But their finishes look really cheap and bled out and the bows have always felt top heavy bigtime. They damn sure have ome hell of a marketing team to push their stuff. I just cant get behind it.
Jimmy, Evan talked about IBO and ASA speeds in depth in a comment below. To be within IBO standards, I am incorrect in what I stated in the video. IBO ratings can be measured up to 80lbs +/- a 2lb variance with the bow set at its max draw length shooting a 5gr per pound arrow weight up to 80 lbs (400grains). So Mathews could essentially set the bow up to 75+ lbs at a 30.5" draw length to get their IBO speeds which is why you may not see them hit their ratings when you are doing your speed testings through a chronograph with 30" mods, 70lbs with a 350gr arrow. With my testing at my exact specs, (68lbs, measured 29" draw with a 450 grain arrow) The 2020 Hoyt compared to the 2021 Mathews was consistently 7fps slower (at my specs) than the Mathews. This may be different with the new 2021 Hoyt's, they just have not released them yet. I will say that with both bows at their peak adjustment of draw length and draw weight, they are very comparable as far as speeds go, and it would be an incorrect statement to say that one performs better than the other at its peak draw length. What I am referring to in the video is the efficiency loss when rotating the mods to adjust the draw length lower than anything but the peak setting. There is indeed an efficiency loss in the cams when they are set at a lower draw length compared to any bow with a removable cam or a removable mod to adjust to the same draw length. The difference isn't huge and at the end of the day if it's 10fps slower does it really matter? Not necessarily, but any cam with a removable mod system absolutely does perform better with any draw length that is less than the max of the bow. I hope this all makes sense! Thanks, Josh
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for video! One of the better reviews I’ve seen on the V3
Thank you so much!
Just traded my Solution for a V3 31 a month ago. Solution had a problem that the dealer rectified but I couldn't get myself to trust it. SO,,,,,I went to the dark side (since I still own 2 other Bowtech's), My V3 is a tackdriver and is giving about 7fps more than the Solution with the same arrow (277fps on 496gr 5mm Axis). I did have to change the grip, even tried it bare riser but now have a UV on it. I completely agree on the feel. That long ATA feels a LOT more like my 38 ATA 3D bow than a hunting bow. I think the long riser really reduces your tendency to torque. Great review, no fluff, just facts. Keep it up.
SPOT ON MY FRIEND!!! ONE OF THE BEST REVIEWS ON ANY BOW I’VE SEEN. GREAT INFORMATION. O’YEA, 31” FOR SURE. THANKS
Seriously the most informative bow review I've seen. Details and information NO OTHER VIDEO anywhere has given. Like about the mod and cams other videos don't mention because apparently they don't do the research on the bows like you have apparently done. I would love to see you do a review on the Elite Ritual and your thoughts on that cam and mod set up. And the options. 👍👍🏹🏹
great review, please keep it up! the way you deliver info is very clear and concise. Great stuff.
Thank you!!
I’m getting my husband this for our anniversary
Awesome!!
Great explanation of each individual part/changes. Subbed because of this review.
Awesome, thank you!!
Hey Josh, I hope you make more videos in the future in all archery things. can you tune the V3 easy from L&R. I am right handed with that have eye issues so I have to have the adjustment the tuning to the left and even then I can't touch the string to my nose or I will lose the target in my right eye. I have a bow tech Zion and I am not satisficed with accuracy, so I am am looking to the perfect bow. V3 seems to be the best bow I've seen. One more question.
Is the draw weight set with the specific module you us. so there would be a #60 MOD, #65 MOD AND OR #70 MOD. OR are they all adjustable?
Draw weight is set with the mod but can also be adjusted with the limb bolt. 60, 65, 70, 75 mods along with the limb bolt adjustments to lower it from the peak mod setting. Yes, you could tune a left or right handed bow the same way, but some of the adjustments are switched with the direction you use for the adjustment.
Nicely done buddy 2 thumbs up
Just ordered my V3 31”.
I am coming off the Triax.
I’m ready for a 31.
I’m a 28” draw.
Ordered it in elevated 2 with 80% let off.
The Rest of choice for me is the Hamskea Trinity hunter pro.
After 12-13 years I’m finally done with the QAD’s.
V3--31 My choice Awesome bow a shooting machine!!!
Shot it today, by far the best feeling bow ive ever shot just in how it holds and shoots
which one? 27 or 31
Great video, I heard the strings loose up quickly. Would you replace the string when you buy it and what string would you recommend.
You certainly don’t have to, but I like to. Americas Best Bowstrings makes a wonderful string.
thanks Josh
Great review man.
Keep them coming
Thank you! Will do 👍🏻
I shot the V3 27 today fresh out of the box when they arrived at my local shop today. I liked it enough to order one from their next shipment!
Awesome!!
Great video, excellent review
Great review. Not losing efficiency is huge. I pull 60lbs but 28ish...so speed should still be good?
Arrow weight will be the only other factor, but yes you’ll have plenty of speed!
I shot them both yesterday and I think the 31 is the bow I’ll be shooting. Such a smooth draw cycle I feel like compared to the VXR. The 27 is no slouch just too steep of a strong angle for me.
Thanks for the review im a 29 draw and I bought a v3 27 love it better than my 31.5
I cant believe its only 336 ibo at 6" brace ht! My expedition has a 6.5" brace and its a 355 ibo!!! Still, i DO like the isea of a 27" ata. I had a z7xreme at 28" ata and it was awesome
Awesome bows. But I cant let my 32 go. Its been good to me.
Good review, keep on going! Greetings from Germany
Thank you!
Awesome video! I just watched some of your beginner archery content too. I'm newer to bowhunting and picked up the VXR 31.5, but thinking I should have got the 28" or waited for the V3 27". My draw length is 26in @ 60lbs. Which ATA length would be best for my draw length and allow me to get the most out of the bow?
Thank you Shayne! Given your draw length, you may find more comfort in the shorter axle to axle bows that you mentioned, but the 31.5 should still fit you very well. I encourage you to shoot the shorter models at a pro shop and see how they feel relative to your VXR 31.5. There is no perfect equation or ratio for brace height, axle to axle, and draw length which are all factors that contribute to string angle. Every archer has their own preferences on what they like the best. You may just find that the 31.5 is the most comfortable for you!
- Josh
Mathews says the 27 is 342 IBO and I've seen the 27 generally shoots faster than the 31 with the setup the same.
Very good video. I really like the way you laid it out there. I have a VXR 28. My draw is always been different for each bow I shoot. Anywhere from 27 to 29. I really like this bow and want to shoot it because of the clearance and the roller guard system. So many guys are dog piling on Mathews and never even held the bow yet. My only issue with my VXR was I had to spin my nock so my cock vane was out or shoot 4 vane. Not a deal breaker. So I'm definitely going to go shoot the new 27. If it seems to be better at all I'm gonna probably buy it
31 for sure
The nano 740 is new for 2021 on this bow
Great review as always. Wished they come out with a 33" Switchweight bow. Like my vertix a lot but want to upgrade this year. Maybe the V3 31 or get the VXR31.5. What would you do? Greetings from austria
Depending on your draw length, I wouldn’t over look their new Atlas with a 34 3/4” axle to axle.
Where do you shoot in Austria? Are there 3D tournaments? Love Austria! Hope ski season opens...Currently living in Germany, but am American.
@@BowOnlyOutdoors thanks for your answer. Not a speed freak but 350fps at 34" draw is equal to 310fps ibo i think.
@@GreenFields-7777 i live in lower austria. We have a lot of 3d ranges here
@Rusty Shackleford the switch weight mods are not compatible with the Traverse. And yes, the draw length would have to be at 34” to get to the 350 fps. With that said, most long draw guys don’t need to worry about speed because of their longer draw length, giving them a longer power stroke giving them more speed.
Thanks for the video! You mentioned top hats being better tuned when not matched with old cable guard, are you able to explain more? I had thought they had to be same top and bottom. What combos of top hats were you finding fixed the asymmetry on the older bows? Thanks again.
In most (not all) of the VXR's I set up, the top hats were not the same on the top and bottom. This has much more to do with the particular limbs than it does with where the cables are pulled from on the roller guard. With that said, the way I look at it, if the top two limbs are identical to the bottom two, with the cables being pulled perfectly centered between the two, it makes sense to me that the cams should have equal cam lean at rest and at full draw. Like I said, I definitely need to do a lot of testing and tuning with these new bows to see if my theory and thought process is correct, as it's merely a guess with my first impressions of the new bow.
To answer your question on which top hat combos were best on the older bows, it all comes down to the particular limbs on the bow and the individual shooter themselves. Different grips and grip pressure results in different torque and different top hat configurations to get the bow to tune best to the individual shooter. There is not a certain combo of top hats that I found to work best for a majority of the past bows. They are based on the individual limbs, grip/torque, and shooting style.
I hope this gives a better understanding!
Thanks, Josh
@@BowOnlyOutdoors wow! Thorough response! Thanks very much, the reason I was asking is that I had my bow tuned for my paper tear with top hats and noticed that the tech had the top cam more middle and bottom off to the left more and had wondered but your explanation makes sense. Thanks again Josh. Looking forward to a setup/tune video if that's in the works
I can make that happen! Hopefully I’m not waiting as long as I did last year to get my bow in.
And remember, we always want to tune the bow to how it shoots! Not how it looks. It sounds like your bow technician did everything right.
Thanks for the comments and I’m glad you enjoyed the video!
@@BowOnlyOutdoors yes it was fascinating watching him tune it step by step and then go by my shots. I've got max confidence in him. Thanks again
I just ordered v3 27 about 2 hours ago😊
I was going to get the v3 31. But it hurt my thumb. So I got the BOWTECH REVOLT. Wt the deadlock cams. Flip disc tech. Clutch grip. 30inches axle to axle ibo is 335. My draw is 28inches. The
BOWTECH is dead in the hand. Fast and accurate
Sad thing about all these bows is that it costs $1200 this year and worth $600 two years from now. That’s because in 2022 they will come out with their best bow ever. And again in 2023, etc etc
Yep, and don’t forget to keep an eye out for the latest and greatest super-dooper x-tra awesome wide cutting broadhead that kills em deader than ever before broadheads. 🤔
This was really good. Appreciate the discussion on efficiency as DL changes for the bows. Curious how that works on draw weight...so if I were to prefer a 60 lb draw weight for example, would I want to purchase a bow that maxes out at 60, 65 or 70 lbs or does it not matter much?
As far as speed efficiency goes, it isn’t much of an effect at all from my testing. With that said, bows with the limbs maxed out tend to generally be quieter and have less vibration that those with the limbs backed out.
31 isn't long at all but it looks huge with that riser I love it I been shooting halon and love it cams look same design as halon
I’ve got a Halon 6 at the moment. Went and ordered a V3 27 yesterday. Go shoot it if you’re ready to buy a new bow
Yes, cams are essentially the same but the V3 has a switch weight mod system.
@Whopem Harder The Halons did not have the switch weight mod system, however the cams are essentially the same to the new V3 that does have the switch weight mod system. You can put Mathews side plates on the grip to shoot off the riser if you wish as well.
- Josh
Good review.....
Informative Video, Thanks!
31 Ordered, 29in Draw.
How does a person get there hands on the "Switch Weight Modules" and can I change these out ?
Your local dealer should have any module you will need on hand, if not, they can order them for you and can change them out for you as well.
So on the cam mod thing for the draw weight is that if the draw weight screw maxed out. If it is at 60 could you back it down to 60
With the limb bolts tightened all the way down with the 60lb mods, it should draw very close to 60lbs. If you had 70lb mods on for example, yes, you can back off the limbs to back it down to 60lbs.
If it is at 60 cam mods how far could you back it down roughly
At 60 could it go to 50
@@atomicoutdoors8631 Recommended would be 10 lbs so 50lbs. But I have backed them down to roughly 42lbs with 60 lb mods without issues. With the limbs backed out that far, it increases chances for derailing the string, so be careful if you need to back it down that much.
I was just wondering
Good job Josh! Regarding bow efficiency, I recently saw a UA-cam video in which they took two bows of two different brands, one of each a 70# dialed down to 63# and one of each a 60# maxed out to 63#. The difference in speed was only about 2-3 fps which is nothing. So I question the idea that the Mathews switch weight cams are all that much more efficient than other bows.
Thank you Doug! The limb bolts being maxed out or backed out don’t have much to do at all regarding efficiency speed wise. Neither does the switch weight technology. That’s more noise and vibration based. It’s the removable mod system instead of a rotating mod system that changes the efficiency of the cams regarding speed.
For example, a bow with a removable mod system with a 342 IBO speed and a bow with a rotating mod with an IBO speed of 342 will BOTH shoot 342 at the IBO standards of 30” draw, 70lbs and 350grain arrow. However, when you put the bow with the removable mods at 27” draw length, we lose roughly 30 FPS making the bow shoot at roughly 312 FPS. BUT, with a rotating mod system, if 30 was the peak draw length and you rotate the mod down to 27”, not only do we lose the 30 FPS from the 3” less of draw length, but since the mod is rotating, it is less efficient than a removable mod, so you lose an additional 5-10 FPS on top of the 30 giving you a speed of roughly 302-307 instead of 312.
Not a big difference, but a difference none the less. I hope this helps clear it up!
- Josh
@@BowOnlyOutdoors Thanks Josh, I knew you could school me on this. :-)
Just ordered my 31 at my local pro shop ambush Green riser black limbs
Can you do a sight in video for a multi pin slider? I know some guys use the bottom for their float pin. How do you move the pointer to that pin? I’ll be using a axcel carbon pro.
It’s on my list of videos to make but I’ll try to do my best to describe it here to help!
For example, I run a 5 pin slider sight. I have the slider adjustment set all the way up to the top to represent my “base”.
My base means that all of my 5 pins are set 20-60 yards with 60 being my bottom pin. I do not adjust my slider adjustment to sight in the first 5 pins as I want the slider to be all the way at the top, at “base”. Therefore, with the slider at the top, I make a fixed adjustment to the actual sight housing, raising or lowering it so that my top pin (20) is set near the top of the sight housing while the slider is still at base. Once I get all of my pins, 20-60 sighted in perfectly, I can then start on my sight tape adjustments. On a multi pin sight, with a slider adjustment, I always set my bottom pin as the one that represents my pointer on the slider.
So in this case, on a 5 pin slider with my bottom pin sighted in at exactly 60 yards when my slider is all the way up, 60 is base and 60 is where the tape STARTS on the top of the slider where the pointer is pointing when it’s at base.
A simple and effective way to get your other markings to put on an accurate tape say 60-100 is to use a removable piece of freezer tape or painters tape and make a slight mark next to the pointer with a pencil for 60. As you back up in distance and lower your slider while always aiming with your bottom pin, Mark 70, 80, 90, 100, or whatever your furthest comfortable distance is. The more precise you can be, the better it will be sighted in.
Once you have your 60 marked on the tape at base and 100 marked where the pointers at when shooting at this distance, take the yardage tapes that come with the sight and match up the tape that fits perfectly with your marks of 60 and 100.
Once you’ve found your tape, cut the tape at 60 to represent “base” at the top of the slider and as you move your slider down, your bottom pin will be sighted in to the exact yard out to your furthest distance that you shot.
Past 60 yards, the bottom pin and where it relates to the pointer on your tape is the only reliable aiming point that I would use as a reference as your 4th and 5th pin (50 and 60) at base, will have much less of a drop that when you have your bottom set at 100, the 4th pin does NOT represent 90.
I hope this helps and I will make a video on it at some point, but in the mean time, I hope this can help you get it set up!
- Josh
I’m coming off a halon 6. I shoot 27.5 draw length I think I’m gonna go with the v3 27.
Give them a test shot and see which one you like the best!
Have you by chance got the v3 yet debating on trading my halon 5 in but don’t know if they would be much difference or if it would be worth it I’m a 29in draw myself I’ve always shot the shorter axle to axle idk if I should go with the 27 or 31
Amazing review thanks again! I have a 30.5-31" draw and I'm unsure if I should go v3 at full draw 30.5 or Atlas at 31"... Any help would be so appreciated!!
Thank you! I strongly encourage you to shoot them both to form your own opinion. What I can tell you is that the Atlas will shoot a fair amount slower than the V3, but at your draw length, you will still be shooting fast. In the little bit of shooting I've done with the Atlas, I noticed it to be louder than the v3 as well. I will say however, if the string angle and the feel of the Atlas triumphs the V3 for you at your draw length, I would definitely pick that. Overall feel, fit, and comfortability of the bow is what you will likely find most important long term. Shoot them both and pick whichever one you like best!
I also shot both, and put the Atlas down after 1 shot. Loud ting sound, as a hollow aluminum tube to my best explanation. The 31 is sweet, and smaller, quieter and faster. Shoots my 460 grain arrows at 281 fps. Amazing machine!
@@Knifestories I wasn't able to shoot either before buying as there is no stock of either in Australia. Went for the Atlas with 31 draw. Noise really isn't a concern of mine. smooth draw and the bigger axel to axel is more appealing. I hadn't heard anyone say the Atlas was loud, could maybe have been something off on that bow, who knows
Between this and Athens new Vista 33
Am I able to go to my local scheels and order a custom Mathews bow through the bow builder?
The correct answer is it depends if your local Scheels is a Mathews Dealer or not. You can use the dealer map on Mathew’s website, or just give your local Scheels a call to find out!
@Adventure Minnesota that is location dependent my scheels sells mathews bow and has mathews bow techs on hand
Do you guys think there will be a VXR coming up or is it replaced with the V3?
V3 is updated vrx, from my understanding.
The V3 is basically an updated model of the VXR.
At 29" draw length , I'm going with the 31" V3 .
I think you’ll love it!
New subscriber here. Great video! Think I’m gonna get the 31 since I have a 30” draw.
You will love it!
@@BowOnlyOutdoors what’s your thoughts on this bow vs the vxr 31.5? I think I herd you say in the video that’s what you have.
@@brandonjernigan1968 I love both of them! I honestly don’t have enough time behind the new V3 to say that I prefer one more than another at this point. I would shoot them both for yourself and see what you like best!
@@BowOnlyOutdoors thank you! Will do
I’d be very curious to know if my vapor trail drop away gen 7 will fit on there with the new design?
I will test it and see! The hamskea trinity fit on it, but because of the cable guard it has to be all the way forward in position.
@@BowOnlyOutdoors thank you! Ya let me know
@@BowOnlyOutdoors I just got back from the archery shop. I had to test myself. It will not fit. Boo! Good news, my vertix still rocks. No need for a new bow for me yet.
Why not set the 31 to your draw length before reviewing it? it looks like you were struggling to get it over the hump. 27 looked like it was easier to draw. Complaint on previous switch weight cam bows was they were a stiff draw. Your draw on the 31 reinforced that complaint.
We should have. With the draw being a full 1.5" longer I wasn't used to pulling the extra distance which is what you see in the video. The 27 looked easier to draw because the draw length was shorter, and fit me better. The cam system between the two is exactly the same, so the draw curve is almost identical. It's hard to really know how a bow draws based on watching a video. I encourage you to shoot it to form your own opinion as some folks love the draw, and others don't. It mainly comes down to what you are used to and what you want out of a bow.
Again, with the high end bows of today, it's a give and take no matter the brand. If a bow is easier to draw, it simply has less performance. I wouldn't call this draw easy, but I would not call it overly rough or stiff either. As I mention in the video, if you like an easier draw, you can turn the draw weight down and still achieve the same performance out of it as a heavier draw on a slightly slower or lower performing bow (speed wise).
Thanks for the comment and I hope this all makes sense!
- Josh
31in for sure but that price tag hurts.
Incorrect on the 27. 341 ibo
342 @ IBO specs on their website
I just can't let my vertix go...
I bought the Vertix when it came out. And bought the Traverse in July '20 for a back up. Haven't shot the V3s yet, but have shot the VXR extensively, and there was no reason to upgrade, unless you just like having the newest bow out.
Yep. Same here. Sticking with my Vertix and still loving it.
Your description of IBO speed is actually incorrect
IBO does NOT have a set draw LENGTH so IF a bow can make 34” of draw length ... manufacturers CAN test speeds there and still claim IBO
Arrow weight MUST be measured at 5 grain per pound of draw weight BUT 80# IS allowed w/ a 2# margin for ERROR that you do NOT have to factor into your arrow weight
SO ... a manufacturer COULD test a bow ... say the 31 V3 in this case at 30.5”, 82# and a 400 gr arrow and still be IBO compliant.
ASA guidelines are MUCH more strict and what MOST people believe is actually IBO
Thank you for correcting me on that! Archery and bowhunting is something that I will ALWAYS be able to continue to learn. I will never know it all.
I’m curious as to why IBO is the standard and has been the standard for so long if there’s so much variance. What are your thoughts?
@@BowOnlyOutdoors I believe it has more to do with IBO being the original 3D "bowhunting" organization. They had to find a "standard" for safety ( 5 gr/# arrow weight ) and draw weights that could be used during tournaments. But in those days they still knew the variance in draw lengths so they never addressed draw length in their tournament standard. YEARS later ATA set their guidelines for testing standards that were much more concrete defined.
www.rokslide.com/the-truth-in-bow-speed-ata-vs-ibo/
GREAT REVIEW...excellent job... what time will you be home for dinner son...JK..
Best review on the V3 I've seen...
31
Very stiff draw cycle compared to the bowtechs I shot.
I was wondering about that. I shoot a bowtech reign 7 and its hamds down smoother than any Mathews in the last few years, cant speak for this years release but I assumed it would be stiff like previous years. Mathews felt gritty and stiff to me.
@@fatheremmons85 this new one feels just as stiff as the last 2 years bows imo.
@@rmarc11 "Smooth" never comes to mind when I've shot any of their bows. I hate to be that way but the riser looks good. But their finishes look really cheap and bled out and the bows have always felt top heavy bigtime. They damn sure have ome hell of a marketing team to push their stuff. I just cant get behind it.
youre insane if you think those cams out perform a Hoyt. Hoyt actualy hits IBO... Mathews does not
Jimmy,
Evan talked about IBO and ASA speeds in depth in a comment below. To be within IBO standards, I am incorrect in what I stated in the video. IBO ratings can be measured up to 80lbs +/- a 2lb variance with the bow set at its max draw length shooting a 5gr per pound arrow weight up to 80 lbs (400grains). So Mathews could essentially set the bow up to 75+ lbs at a 30.5" draw length to get their IBO speeds which is why you may not see them hit their ratings when you are doing your speed testings through a chronograph with 30" mods, 70lbs with a 350gr arrow.
With my testing at my exact specs, (68lbs, measured 29" draw with a 450 grain arrow) The 2020 Hoyt compared to the 2021 Mathews was consistently 7fps slower (at my specs) than the Mathews. This may be different with the new 2021 Hoyt's, they just have not released them yet. I will say that with both bows at their peak adjustment of draw length and draw weight, they are very comparable as far as speeds go, and it would be an incorrect statement to say that one performs better than the other at its peak draw length.
What I am referring to in the video is the efficiency loss when rotating the mods to adjust the draw length lower than anything but the peak setting. There is indeed an efficiency loss in the cams when they are set at a lower draw length compared to any bow with a removable cam or a removable mod to adjust to the same draw length. The difference isn't huge and at the end of the day if it's 10fps slower does it really matter? Not necessarily, but any cam with a removable mod system absolutely does perform better with any draw length that is less than the max of the bow.
I hope this all makes sense!
Thanks, Josh
check out my vid abt the v3
REVIEW COMING SOON
31 for sure