HOW TO DO A PROPER GROUND? WITH JOHNATHAN PRICE!
Вставка
- Опубліковано 8 тра 2022
- Have you ever wondered why your amplifiers are frequently going into protect mode? Are you contantly having issues with the sound pressure coming from your vehicle. These are all potential signs that your ground wiring maybe off. It is essential to have a solid ground wiring foundation in order to get the best results while playing.
In this video, Jp gives us a few tips on how to determine whether you have bad grounding or not. He also gives us a few cheat codes to ensure that you have the best organized wiring possible.
Be sure to check out our Tour Schedule for upcoming shows and events at down4soundshop.com in the link below. We look forward to seeing you guys and your awesome builds this summer! Tell us which show you will be attending!
www.down4soundshop.com/down4s... - Авто та транспорт
If using lithium, I would HIGHLY recommend running your ground(s) straight from the alternator housing if you can. Frame and body grounds will limit your potential. OFC wire connection straight to the alternator housing is king. Just a pointer for those that didn't know. I won't go into the details of why, I'll leave that to JP for another video lol.
Why does chemistry matter? With lithium your power reserve is back by the amps as you do not put lithium under hood, sure some will be in the back seat with amps in far back yada yada.. But 99% are going to be right there,So that takes care of the reserve so on to the power source (alternator), You run your positive wire from the alt post to battery delete/cap bank/distribution blocks (Front cap bank is my personal preference and I do not like going alternator straight back as I prefer the vehicle to get the power it needs first a foremost, again personal preference and this excludes dedicated systems but grounds all the same) The alt has a known current value (I) that we run proper amount of cable for said value (I) and since we know how DC works and current travels only one direction which is positive to negative (electrons flow from negative to positive and current repels) Meaning ground wires do not see excessive amperage. This is telling us not only the cross sectional area of a chassis is massively over kill even with it being steel or aluminum (corvettes GTFO), It tells us that you are going to have far less resistance through the chassis as opposed to a any amount of ground runs you will need to run (considering we have a max value (I) that will be BROUGHT to your reserve bank through the positive. What does all that mean?? Well I would be hard pressed to agree with you on that one. Your chassis is a suitable ground for ALL of your needs and you would be pissing money away running unnecessary ground wire that does absolutely zero. I don't know about you but I have never seen a chassis have too much amperage going through it where it melts the paint and starts on fire because a power wire came in contact with it.
By all means please, Go into the detail of why you said this and prove me wrong. I greatly encourage it!
@@commonsenseisdeadin2024 Additionally, electricity flows through the shortest route possible, so running as short of a ground from your alt to your chassis as possible makes more sense than some roundabout, forcing it back through an elongated cable, does. 🤷🏻♂️
@@RAW_Reality Electricity flows the path of least resistance, typically equates to shortest route. For the price of wire these days its asinine i think to run unnecessary runs, of course it won't hurt but it's not going to yield you any advantages. It goes hand in hand with these people running like 8 runs of 4/0 on 2 400A alternators because there's less resistance.... It's like the CCA debate people run their mouths because 1 run 1/0 OFC to 1 run of 1/0 CCA gangs you 400watts on what 3k? First run it accordingly, second you aren't going to tell 400watts even at only 3k Watts. I run CCA and Cmax, i love the people who run their mouths 😂
Why is it better to run to the alternator rather than just the frame? I’m using ofc wire and today I’m getting engine noise when I rev the car, is that because of bad ground?
If you do subwoofers let us get some color on the surround and cone made even some crazy designs take us back to the 90s with them
yep its about that time for us to{buy fun again] jp call your build hous and tell them ITS TIME TO BUILD FUN AGAIN GUYS couse the jp line of amps is priced right for what you had built
thanks for bringing that up storm yung good one bro.
Id love to see the red/black speckled surround that used to be on the Zuez subs?
Good advice. My audio ground setup is properly grounded through the frame along with the Big three upgrades.
john is living good
good for him 🙏🏽
Certain vehicles, like my Crown Victoria Interceptor, have damn good grounding on the body due to the amount of things factory grounded to it including police power points. You can safely ground up to 2-3k RMS on the back seat bracing if you grind the paint away. I have a 1.5k grounded to it.
I think someone should make a book about car audio.
MECP installation technician study guide
just upgraded my grounds and guys RUN YUOR GROUNDS TO THE FRAME!!!! it made a huge diff.my amps are stable you can feel the power of over 6kwatts....for now
When you do these videos, you should look into what people usually have when giving information. Not everyone has a Tahoe, most vehicles today do not have body on frame construction, and I would not suggest running ground wires longer than 8" to keep resistance down.
So just got this old school. Had an amp already installed . The first month or so I had the vehicle I had no issues. All sudden I started blowing fuses on my truck. As I started trying to diagnose the problem, I believe somehow the case of the amp is energized. Even the screw holding the amp down had power to it. They have it grounded by just a self tapping screw to the bottom of the floor. Do you think if I ran a ground through the floor to the frame, this would fix the issue or is there a problem with my amp?
I just bought the JP43. I have Mechman 370 alternator, big 3, XS D4900. I also just bought a D4S LTO 6.0. Do I run 0 gauge positive to negative from the D4900 to LTO 6.0. From there to JP43 positive and negative to ground?
Question....if I'm adding a new amp to motorcycle saddle bag can I run the ground wire to my battery or must I run all the way to fairing where my radio is ground? Thanks
Instead of running wires by punching holes for the wire to go though, Run a distribution block bolted to the chassis, Then bolt a cable with lugs bolted to the bottom side of said block and run it to the frame. effectively making it share ground paths through body and frame (where applicable such as a tahoe) Either way works of course.
Distribution blocks are definitely the way
You should talk about input sensitivity
hey jp thts good to know but I wanna know which subs would handle the wolfram 900.1 or the jp with the nice color of aquamarine Amp which subs for tht one
Does the JP8 accept speaker level inputs?
Off topic as I run a ground front to back are you ever going to do a Bluetooth remote on the jp8 like you do on the bigger jp amps?
I hope not, just one more thing to install... I wish the new amps were not Bluetooth, or it was at lest an option. I can run a cable much easier than i can install a usb. Not a fan of the new bassknobs myself
I run a ground straight back to my battery along with the power wire never looked back
You can use a factory ground to. A lot of the times on sedan type vehicles you can find a factory ground under the trim panels by the back seat or maybe in the trunk behind the upholstery panels. Always always grind away paint with a wire brush, like JP says, never use a a screwdriver to scrape it away.
What if you have a unibody car that doesn’t have a frame
Yup tahoes have holes under the seats with plugs on them. Meant for drainage I think but ferfect for up to 2 to 3-0 😎 night and day difference in amp performance
Where are these holes? Looking to ground to my frame
Directly under the back seat driver and passenger. Perfectly put above the frame bro. You do have to cut the rug. Or you can unbolt the seat and lift the rug
@@marcusvargas4016 Directly under the back seat driver and passenger. Perfectly put above the frame bro. You do have to cut the rug. Or you can unbolt the seat and lift the rug
@@marcusvargas4016 I just got under the truck seen it stabbed through with a ice pic to find it through the rug then razor the hole bigger for grommet
@@marcusvargas4016 I’m switching to posts like you would a boat haul.. look cleaner that way
I have a unibody that I just ran a dedicated ground from alt case to my headway bank in the back, but I left the 2 grounds to the body that I had before I ran the dedicated ground. My voltage is more stable BUT at idle car seems to want to die even with the system down. Did I create a ground loop? Should I do away with the body grounds and stick to the alt ground? 🙏
If you do it this way you have created 2 paths for current to get back to the alt. One or the other. A proper circuit is a 1 lane road that goes in a perfect circle.
I am starting my first decent sized build. I'm going to be running three batteries. Two under the hood, and one back by the amplifiers. Could I run the grounds from the amplifiers to the third battery, and then down to the frame from the battery? Or would it be better to ground the amplifiers straight to the frame? I've never built a system with multiple batteries, so I'm not 100% sure how to go about it.
run all grounds to chassis on a clean bare metal section or distro block thats bare metal to metal. It is overkill but for every positive wire leaving the battery I run equal amount of grounds (OCD is probably more so the reason for this but it doesn't mean it is a bad thing lol)
Reasoning is that the battery is not your power source, It is only a reserve. The alternator is the only thing producing power.
Personally, I have a solid copper buss bar, that I have Everything grounded to, and that buss bar has two runs of 4/0 ofc straight to the Frame of my car under the car. The battery in the front is just grounded to the chassis as it always has been. Nothing fancy no delete or anything. But after running low voltage telecommunications, grounding all our network cabinets and stuff, has really showed me a different world of “proper grounding”
Way overkill but won't hurt. Telecommunications as you know is positive grounded thus making "grounds" the focus, Of course the opposite of vehicles. The ground only dumps any excessive amperage the load doesn't use. as well as provides the path for electrons to flow completing the circuit and driving the current. Hence why positive wires burn not negative.
What's the update on your truck ???
Can you ground to the battery?
Yes, if the battery is close to the amp. But if you battery is up front, you should ground to the frame, or a good substitute.
I have a unibody car and ground to my battery which is ground to the chassis. dual 0 gauge runs. no resistance in the back battery chassis ground
Can not having the big 3 or a solid ground cause an amp to act like it's clipping and go into protection? I have 2 1000 rms subs that I've been pushing for literally 14 years with a supposedly 1500 watts, so I decided to upgrade to a taramps smart 5 (I didn't know about D4S) I can't turn the gain up barely at all before it shuts off. Theres no damn way there's not enough watts. I'm thinking it's a voltage or ground issue but I'm really not sure. Never had a single issue until now and I've bought and returned 3 amps at this point and thought the 5000watts would be the solution but nope. I'm running out of guesses, and money lol
Dude not having a big 3 is absolutely your issue. Not only do you need that for a smart 5k but you need at the least 1 to 2 runs of 1/0 ofc if you can afford it. If not 2 of the cheaper stuff and at least an agm or two batteries in the back. Those Amps pull better than 500 amps when putting out close to their rated power. Really more. If you don't want to do all that then go back to smaller Amp. Do your big 3 anyway.
Is it OK to run ground to frame and battery??
from frame to batt to amp is good
Dose the bad ground ruin the amps overtime??
A bad ground can burn your car to the ground!
To pin point where the failier will happen IT WILL BE THE AMP THAT WILL TAKE THE HIT I have seen it to many times in my day.
BU-TTTT
Can i use power cable for ground
It's the same stuff. Just mark it black in some way so you don't mix it up later on when your changing something. Wire is wire.
My guy didn’t show a dam thing about how to hook it up 😂 Noobs will be lost with this video
Hey I just purchased two crossfire c7 twelves dual 2 ohm will the crescendo 4k be a good choice of power or the crossfire 4k thanks
I also bought some c7 12s too but i got them in dual 1 ohm bc the car audio guy said it would be better bc of box rise? Would you know if dual 1 or 2 is better?
My girl got them as a surprise for me and she doesn't know the difference between dual ones or two
@@jayallison3538 o ok then, thanks for the reply
@@bashns7743 if your amp can handle 1 ohm then dual 1 is the way to go if not got dual 2 ohm bc u can only be wired to 2 ohms
@@bashns7743 depends on what you want from your sytem somtimes you have to know what you want your sytem to do for you audio guys give you THERE advice for your set up ....your set up in your car so study study study and gain knowledg for your self right here on you tub
why no mention of using a volt meter to measure your grounding point?
Could explain that to me so I could try, no one has ever explained that to me and now I'm curious and want to give it a go
So what about newer cars without an actual frame
D4s subs I can't wait to see them
Where can you find dielectric grease?
Amazon
Any auto parts store. It's around $10.00. it's a grey and white tube. I just bought some from Advance Auto.
what, bro😊
yo
I need mechman alt 400 amp 2017 Chrysler 6.4 l hemi engine 3 ,15s skar amp skar 4500.
What causes an amp to go in and out of protection mode eventually cutting off all together
Probably a bad ground 😂
@@scottbe1 ground is good had it professionally installed worked fine for over a year then the system started cutting on and off eventually stayed off
@@chrismitchell9212 It could be a variety of things.
1. Fuse blown
2. Wire has came loose somewhere
3. Amp died
yep starvaion at som point check your wiring
Alright; I bought a new (used) car and a couple days later it wouldn’t start. The mechanic at the dealership wasn’t sure why, said I probably turned off my car without putting it in park, but they did something and sent me on my way. The next day I got my subs installed elsewhere and the technician said my car wouldn’t start when he finished. Towed it back to my mechanic who blamed it on the sub guys for leaving a loose “500 arc ground wire” that drained my starter.
I’m so confused. I am your stereotypical woman who knows squat about cars.. but in my 11 years of driving I’ve NEVER turned off my car without putting it in park 🤣 I have all receipts, and the mechanic was actually part of the dealership who sold me my car (warranty) not my usual mechanic who is reputable.
I mean, what are the chances I actually forgot to throw it in park AND the technician screwed up within 48 hours? Somethings fishy about the vehicle. Thanks for reading my rant
Jp listen can you use 2 runs of cca to your back bank ...
That's funny 😂😂😂😂
If you are being serious don't waste your money on two runs of cca. Spend that cash on one larger run of ofc, better in the long run everytime!
Second
My ride has the worst grounding points meaning ANYTHING PAST MY FRONT DASH ALL BAD GROUNDS PERIOD. The is a lot of cars/suv's/trucks with this problem SO WATCH IT FOLKS AND NO THEY CAN NOT BE FIX. :/
🤔Please, enlighten us on what you mean here. :iterally makes zero sense unless you have a corvette or composite tub
@@commonsenseisdeadin2024 right!!!
JP...I love ya to pieces, my boy - but you need to spellcheck your video text, because that was bad, mmmk? Two minutes of proofreading and some quick fixing is WAY cheaper than looking like you didn't graduate high school.
Remember that most new cars are constructed with a unibody design, so those cars do not have a frame to speak of.
Also, any grease should suffice on a ground, it doesn't necessarily have to be dielectric grease.
“How to ground properly “ would’ve sounded better
Are you serious I can't use my tail light housing lmmfao
First
Question JP why did will smith slap chris rock?🤔
hey john message me. ive got a real game changer on amplifier installs. i wanna pat pend my creation. i bet it will even help your performance. on power everywhere. from alts to speakers. but local audio shops need my invention
Tell me, ill relay the message!
Not sure how I feel about someone that's never done an install on their own giving advice on a proper ground...
He's not saying anything that's not true
@@imfrom210texas he is giving zero advice to people that have unibody vehicles....he's regurgitating info that he's heard from the people he's paid to do his installs.
@@imfrom210texas you probably take advice from Parker too
@@djwonderbrad For those of us w/ unibody's what should we do?