Attention! This video contains mistakes: 6:03 - the tightening torque is 70 Nm + 90°, not 70 Nm. 6:50 - the tightening torque is 60 Nm, not 55 Nm. 7:19 - the tightening torque is 4 Nm, not 9 Nm. 7:37 - the tightening torque is 190 Nm, not 65 Nm. 8:32 - the tightening torque is 70 Nm + 90°, not 80 Nm. We're sorry for the inconvenience 🙇♂
And the torque spec is dependant on what new driveshaft bolt comes with the new wheel bearing, if it's a 12 point bolt with ribbing on the underside of the bolt head the torque specs are as follows stage 1 70Nm stage 2 is 90° but if the new 12 point bolt doesn't have the ribbing on the underside of the bolt head the torque specs are stage 1 200Nm and stage 2 is 180° so check which bolt you are using.
Outstanding video. I've done this replacement several times, but was looking for a refresher. You make it look even easier than it is. With the proper tools, anybody can do this job.
I am so grateful to this video as I am certainly not a mechanic but finances made it so that I had to either forfeit my car or fix the front bearings. This video was a HUGE help and I know how time consuming video editing and setting up to film is, on top of the work itself that you featured. I appreciated how you posted the Torque requirements of each step right on the screen for me to follow. You guys rock!
I followed the recommended torque values for the axle bolt (80Nm) and found a strange noise when driving. Checked tonight and found the bolt had worked loose. Now re-tourqued to 200Nm and 180 degrees
THx, for the detailed vid. Very good. But the music is annoying 10 on 10, makes you wish the video ends soon. Hearing the mechanic work and tool sounds would be just better, realistic and really anyone interested in the video would prefer to hear that.
Most shops do not do any of this. They use an impact wrench on most of these nuts and then you are back in the shop for something else that fails. For example twisted break lines or alignment or squeaking noise. I have had to fix these on my own after paces like PepBoys or Ford dealership monkeyed with replacing an axel or discs.
Have a look at other videos on our channel: 🔸 VW GOLF 6 car repair tutorial - ua-cam.com/play/PLWep5LzT0sxl2mq1Hicf-oS_bplwavHmQ.html 🔸 How to replace spark plug on VW GOLF 6 - ua-cam.com/video/HesPb4FBMP4/v-deo.html 🔸 How to replace oil filter and engine oil on VW GOLF 6 - ua-cam.com/video/4A8lESq9hVE/v-deo.html 🔸 How to replace ignition coil on VW GOLF 6 - ua-cam.com/video/5Db4htepqkU/v-deo.html 🔸 How to replace wipers blades / window wipers VW GOLF 6 - ua-cam.com/video/HqyyZ8yNKhA/v-deo.html
The universal WD-40. Basic properties are: The duration of protection for WD-40 will depend on the type of material to be coated and the method of exposure. Steel products treated with WD-40 can be stored under a cover or indoors for 1 year or longer. Outdoor storage - 6 months to a year. Storage outside in high humidity conditions - from 2 weeks to a month. LUBRICATES. WD-40 lubricates metal parts and moving mechanisms. Leaves no greasy or sticky residue. PERMEATES. WD-40 penetrates and frees rusted, seized, and frozen machinery. Provides smooth operation of mechanisms. PROTECTS. WD-40 protects metal surfaces from corrosion even in the most extreme conditions. CLEANSES. WD-40 easily removes dirt, grease, bitumen stains, glue residues. DISPLACES MOISTURE. WD-40 displaces moisture and forms a protective barrier against moisture. Restores electrical and electronic devices in the event of a short circuit and maintains their working condition.
Need some help, changing left front wheel bearing found a second wiring harness with wire broken, not sure where and what its for, speed sensor is intact
In general, the replacement will be similar, the only thing that may be slightly different in the design features of your car. More accurate information can be obtained in the technical documentation for the car or by contacting the service.
I agree, I'm replacing the front wheel bearing on 2010 golf (mk6) 2.5 and I did NOT have to remove the 3 control arm bolts to change out the hub. Im replacing it right now as I type.
It's not possible to skip. At least on the GTI there isn't enough clearance between the upper two hub bolts and the CV joint to stick an M12 socket bit in there. Unless maybe using a long reach M12? But it still seems pretty tight for the bolt to clear the CV...
Thank you for your feedback! You are right, after processing with copper grease, it should be cleaned along the working surface of the brake disc. Best regards, Autodoc Team!
Unfortunately, it is not possible to answer your question, you can find this information in the technical documentation for the repair of your car. AUTODOC
Thank you for your comment. We sell to the United States. Please feel free to contact our Customer Support team and we will be happy to assist you with any questions you have and assist you in choosing compatible spare parts for your car. Looking forward to hearing from you. Best Regards, Autodoc team
I have mounted brakes for all those years and never using anything in between the hub/rotor/rim. It's really disgusing how people still doing like this because old grandpa told you to grease everything.
I followed this torque setting and found the axle bolt had worked itself loose. Couldn’t put my finger on the odd noise while driving. Glad I checked it tonight otherwise it could have caused a serious incident. It’s now been torqued to 200Nm and RFT
I know that for the 08 R32, there are 3 different types of bolts, so they have different torque specs. According to the Bentley forum: There are 3 different axle bolts that were used and are in circulation. 1) A hex head bolt with a separate washer (27mm head) = 200 N*m + 1/2 turn 2) A 12-point shoulder bolt with RIBBING under the head (24mm head) = 70 N*m + 1/4 turn 3) A 12-point shoulder bolt with a SMOOTH contact surface under the head (24mm head) = 200 N*m + 1/2 turn Unfortunately, I came upon someone not explaining the 3 different torque specs, so I mistakenly torqued at the lower one, and after a couple hundred miles, my axle bolt flew off while I was driving and some parts ended up getting messed up because of it. Because of this, people who do these tutorials should make note of the different specs according to what others may have to avoid accidents.
@@autodocuk It just needed a little balanced thrust from both sides of the hub in my case. I ended up removing the heat shield. Once i got both hands on the hub, I was able to evict it from it's home very easily. Took me a good 15 minutes of soaking and tapping the shaft before trying this. Hope it helps somebody...
This channel has no clue on correct torque specs, people please find the info elsewhere. For starters the hub bolt is 200nm off the ground then 180° on the ground 80nm no where near enough ffs this is supposed to be a professional outfit. Use there info at your own risk.
Our videos are only for informative purpose. All regulatory replacements and values can be found directly in the technical documentation for your particular model of car or use the help of a car service.
![How to change rear wheel bearing / rear hub bearing on VW GOLF 6 (5K1) [TUTORIAL AUTODOC]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/S_Y8LUi3CM4/mqdefault.jpg)
Attention! This video contains mistakes:
6:03 - the tightening torque is 70 Nm + 90°, not 70 Nm.
6:50 - the tightening torque is 60 Nm, not 55 Nm.
7:19 - the tightening torque is 4 Nm, not 9 Nm.
7:37 - the tightening torque is 190 Nm, not 65 Nm.
8:32 - the tightening torque is 70 Nm + 90°, not 80 Nm.
We're sorry for the inconvenience 🙇♂
And the torque spec is dependant on what new driveshaft bolt comes with the new wheel bearing, if it's a 12 point bolt with ribbing on the underside of the bolt head the torque specs are as follows stage 1 70Nm stage 2 is 90° but if the new 12 point bolt doesn't have the ribbing on the underside of the bolt head the torque specs are stage 1 200Nm and stage 2 is 180° so check which bolt you are using.
Those mistakes calls for the video to be taken down and corrected.
Are these the same torque specs for a mk6 TDI?
@@glennlozuke268 yes I have just checked on the HaynesPro same as Autodata program and torque specs are the same as the mk5 specs I put on above.
Outstanding video. I've done this replacement several times, but was looking for a refresher. You make it look even easier than it is. With the proper tools, anybody can do this job.
Thank you for your feedback! We are pleased to know that our video was useful for you.
I am so grateful to this video as I am certainly not a mechanic but finances made it so that I had to either forfeit my car or fix the front bearings. This video was a HUGE help and I know how time consuming video editing and setting up to film is, on top of the work itself that you featured. I appreciated how you posted the Torque requirements of each step right on the screen for me to follow. You guys rock!
Thanks for your positive comment! Stay with us!
Everything is so clean and easy in this video.. Thats the cleanest undercarraige of a car ive ever seen...
Correct torque figures
21mm brake carrier bolts (2) 190nm.
16mm ball joint nuts (3) 60nm.
12 xzn wheel bearing to hub (4) 70nm + 90°.
24mm drive shaft bolt (12pt without ribbing) 200nm + 180°
17mm wheel bolts (5) 120nm.
Thank you for your valuable clarification, this will be very useful information for our viewers.
AUTODOC
I followed the recommended torque values for the axle bolt (80Nm) and found a strange noise when driving. Checked tonight and found the bolt had worked loose. Now re-tourqued to 200Nm and 180 degrees
The driveshaft bolt that came with the replacement bearing hub is 27mm and 6 point hex.
Thank you for this. Where did you get these numbers? Every video I watch has their numbers all over the place. I can't figure out who's correct.
@@marco1173 official VAG manual on a same age Audi A3
some golfs mk6 has 4 screws, some has 3 screws on wheel hub... it depends on what? year? or how do i know (only by looking at it?) thanks
Thank you for this video :) My wheel has started humming slightly about 20-40km/h
Thank you for your feedback! We are pleased to know that our video was helpful for you.
THx, for the detailed vid. Very good. But the music is annoying 10 on 10, makes you wish the video ends soon. Hearing the mechanic work and tool sounds would be just better, realistic and really anyone interested in the video would prefer to hear that.
Most shops do not do any of this. They use an impact wrench on most of these nuts and then you are back in the shop for something else that fails. For example twisted break lines or alignment or squeaking noise. I have had to fix these on my own after paces like PepBoys or Ford dealership monkeyed with replacing an axel or discs.
We're sure your comment will be helpful to many of our viewers.
Have a look at other videos on our channel:
🔸 VW GOLF 6 car repair tutorial - ua-cam.com/play/PLWep5LzT0sxl2mq1Hicf-oS_bplwavHmQ.html
🔸 How to replace spark plug on VW GOLF 6 -
ua-cam.com/video/HesPb4FBMP4/v-deo.html
🔸 How to replace oil filter and engine oil on VW GOLF 6 -
ua-cam.com/video/4A8lESq9hVE/v-deo.html
🔸 How to replace ignition coil on VW GOLF 6 -
ua-cam.com/video/5Db4htepqkU/v-deo.html
🔸 How to replace wipers blades / window wipers VW GOLF 6 - ua-cam.com/video/HqyyZ8yNKhA/v-deo.html
Excellent presentation thank you
Great vids but please ditch the music
Hi, I was not able to loosen the bolt at 1:38. I have the same breaker bar. You need an pipe that goes on your breaker bar so you have more force
We are sure that your comment will be useful for many of our viewers.
Más apoyo a este canal. Sigan así 👌🏻
Gracias por tu apoyo.
You do not need to undo the ball joint.... the axle slides back enough to get at the 12 point bolts for the bearing.
This is fantastic. Thank you.
Very nice video
Producer : how much wd40 do you need?
Mechanic : Yes
The universal WD-40.
Basic properties are:
The duration of protection for WD-40 will depend on the type of material to be coated and the method of exposure.
Steel products treated with WD-40 can be stored under a cover or indoors for 1 year or longer.
Outdoor storage - 6 months to a year. Storage outside in high humidity conditions - from 2 weeks to a month.
LUBRICATES. WD-40 lubricates metal parts and moving mechanisms. Leaves no greasy or sticky residue.
PERMEATES. WD-40 penetrates and frees rusted, seized, and frozen machinery. Provides smooth operation of mechanisms.
PROTECTS. WD-40 protects metal surfaces from corrosion even in the most extreme conditions.
CLEANSES. WD-40 easily removes dirt, grease, bitumen stains, glue residues.
DISPLACES MOISTURE. WD-40 displaces moisture and forms a protective barrier against moisture. Restores electrical and electronic devices in the event of a short circuit and maintains their working condition.
Need some help, changing left front wheel bearing found a second wiring harness with wire broken, not sure where and what its for, speed sensor is intact
It is difficult to tell anything from the description and we recommend that you consult with your mechanic.
Hi, Caddy maxi 2018 will be the similar ?
Thx for answer
In general, the replacement will be similar, the only thing that may be slightly different in the design features of your car. More accurate information can be obtained in the technical documentation for the car or by contacting the service.
Great video, thank you!
Thank you for sharing your opinion!
Can you please sent the article number of the wheel bearing used in this video?
Please contact our Customer support team and we will definitely try to help you.
Greetings, you can skip removing the control arm bolts. I just did mine. Probably saved 15 minutes.
Thank you for sharing your experience, it will be very useful information for us and our viewers.
AUTODOC
I agree, I'm replacing the front wheel bearing on 2010 golf (mk6) 2.5 and I did NOT have to remove the 3 control arm bolts to change out the hub. Im replacing it right now as I type.
@@maxnovo625 The only reason you might is if the old wheel hub is seized but I think it's still do-able with a mallet.
It's not possible to skip. At least on the GTI there isn't enough clearance between the upper two hub bolts and the CV joint to stick an M12 socket bit in there. Unless maybe using a long reach M12? But it still seems pretty tight for the bolt to clear the CV...
@@marco1173Not exactly sure how I got to the m12 bolts but I do remember there was no struggle trying to figure it out... I own a 2010 GTI ccta.
DO NOT tighten the cv axle bolt with the vehicles weight on the ground. He just now ruined that new wheel bearing hub assembly 😂
It is not possible to answer your question, you can find this information in the technical documentation for the repair of your car.
No 200nm off the ground then 180° on the ground so much incorrect advice around if you have a smooth bolt without ribs.
I just put a screwdriver in the caliper to stop it from spinning. So much easier.
Ffs u dont need remove lower arm either .push cv join out as much u can.and bolts will be perfectly accessible
At 7:55 you appear to be spryaing copper grease towards the brake disc friction surface - doesn't seem right to me?
Thank you for your feedback! You are right, after processing with copper grease, it should be cleaned along the working surface of the brake disc.
Best regards, Autodoc Team!
Enjoyed👍
Why the entire hub is changed and not only the bearings as in your other vedio of polo mk3
n this car, the bearing changes only with the hub.
Thanks for response 👍
What is the torque procedure for axle bolt?
200nm unladen
180° with vehicle weight on wheels
Is the process the same for the rear bearing?
Unfortunately, we do not have information, you should contact and consult with a mechanic.
AUTODOC
Good 👍👍👍
What sizes metric unit are those sockets and 12 point socket?
Unfortunately, it is not possible to answer your question, you can find this information in the technical documentation for the repair of your car.
AUTODOC
Do you sell to United States?
Thank you for your comment.
We sell to the United States.
Please feel free to contact our Customer Support team and we will be happy to assist you with any questions you have and assist you in choosing compatible spare parts for your car.
Looking forward to hearing from you.
Best Regards,
Autodoc team
Why? Just go to FCP euro or ECS tuning! They are both in the USA 🇺🇸
I have mounted brakes for all those years and never using anything in between the hub/rotor/rim. It's really disgusing how people still doing like this because old grandpa told you to grease everything.
Thanks for the comment. We are constantly working to improve the video.
80nm only for the axel bolts?!
I followed this torque setting and found the axle bolt had worked itself loose. Couldn’t put my finger on the odd noise while driving. Glad I checked it tonight otherwise it could have caused a serious incident.
It’s now been torqued to 200Nm and RFT
Yeah, that number is wrong. It's supposed to be 200 NM + 180 degrees.
I know that for the 08 R32, there are 3 different types of bolts, so they have different torque specs.
According to the Bentley forum:
There are 3 different axle bolts that were used and are in circulation.
1) A hex head bolt with a separate washer (27mm head) = 200 N*m + 1/2 turn
2) A 12-point shoulder bolt with RIBBING under the head (24mm head) = 70 N*m + 1/4 turn
3) A 12-point shoulder bolt with a SMOOTH contact surface under the head (24mm head) = 200 N*m + 1/2 turn
Unfortunately, I came upon someone not explaining the 3 different torque specs, so I mistakenly torqued at the lower one, and after a couple hundred miles, my axle bolt flew off while I was driving and some parts ended up getting messed up because of it. Because of this, people who do these tutorials should make note of the different specs according to what others may have to avoid accidents.
@@gmunoz9008indeed and there supposed to be professionals, litterally someone could of died useing there torque specs.
Whats the trick to get the axle out?
Thank you for your request.
It is necessary to unscrew the bolt and then push the drive out or gently knock out the drive.
Best Regards,
Autodoc team.
@@autodocuk It just needed a little balanced thrust from both sides of the hub in my case.
I ended up removing the heat shield. Once i got both hands on the hub, I was able to evict it from it's home very easily.
Took me a good 15 minutes of soaking and tapping the shaft before trying this. Hope it helps somebody...
Unscrew the bolt a few turns, whack it with a lump hammer. Job done.
10 mins of work that will be $500 please 😂
Hi! Unfortunately, we do not have such information, we recommend that you consult with your mechanic.
👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
This channel has no clue on correct torque specs, people please find the info elsewhere. For starters the hub bolt is 200nm off the ground then 180° on the ground 80nm no where near enough ffs this is supposed to be a professional outfit. Use there info at your own risk.
Our videos are only for informative purpose. All regulatory replacements and values can be found directly in the technical documentation for your particular model of car or use the help of a car service.