Good video -- l fixed an old cast iron bell once -- preheated, welded with Supermissle Rod, peened it , started a charcoal grill fire 🔥- place in there and covered , by morning it turned out perfect. 500 pounds seems a tad high for your repair, I've seen whole Willy's engines in US for $154 pounds ($200 USD& less) -- but for your location and limited access , maybe it was worth it - Cheers 🍺
I always was led to believe that after a furnace welding job, a block would be distorted from the heat, welding and cooling ,and thus,needed to have the main bearing and the cam bearings line bored, and the deck re ground in parallel with the base of the block. Did yours need any re alignment?
That looks like a very successful repair, they do crack around the valve seats and on the front corners of the block, and I have used a crack detector kit to indentify these, it is just a matter of spraying on the indicator powder after spaying the marker dye then the cracks can be easily seen, there/were are a few WOF blocks available and these are much stronger than the American made blocks, but do need a little work to make them externally similar to the original block, I am sure you mean the crown wheel and pinion and not the starter ring gear, is that now good ? It is good that your block has been pressure tested to see if there are any other hairline cracks. A happy result.
@@Greendot319 .. that's not too bad really, they run about $2300 Canadiana Dollars her plus shipping here .. still I much prefer to mend the old one even ... if you have to send it out for welding ... 500 Quid is a lot cheaper :)
Mike Baxter: Interesting that the cost in Canada is similar to that in UK for an engine, yet in USA, where there are relatively few Jeeps as they were almost all left in Europe by order not to be brought back, we are told that a so cheap that it is not worth repairing them, we hear stories about engines still in crate for $150, but I have never been able to track one down, a friend did buy a new in crate engine, complete with ancillaries from USA, but it was a lot more that $150, something like $3000 I think.
@@453421abcdefg12345 ... my thought is prices have risen in recent years ... restoring of old Jeeps is getting more popular ... where in the past just getting them running for field and bush use may have been the goal
@@MikeBaxterABC Yes that is absolutely the case everywhere now, in past times no one repaired parts, they just replaced a gearbox or engine and threw the old one away, I remember seeing crossed piles of axles in the breakers yard, and wheels just went to the dump when a tyre was worn out, a Jeep was just used for hacking about in. Past times !
Hi, I a willys block completely rusted. What worry me the most is where the water goes to cool the engine as it is not accessible... would you have some advices?
ua-cam.com/video/V1W1gyOq-lo/v-deo.html Electrolysis should help, the longer you leave it the better, You must remove the expansion plugs too, get in there with whatever you can first to remove as much rust as possible and blow it out with a compressor and air gun, cheers
Matching numbers? I owned and worked a fair few MB/GPW’s back in the day and don’t think I ever saw an engine REME had not replaced. As I imagine they could pull an engine in an hour or two they were not shy about replacing them. I doubt they worried about which engine went back in. Also not many vehicles had nomenclature affixed.Saw a few frozen cracked blocks but oddly the frost (Welch) plugs were still in tact. Poor quality castings?
Hi Bill, Loads of matching numbers GPW's around, my GPW for example, more common than not to find a matching late GPW as they weren't rebuilt during the war so all the bits stayed with one jeep. I don't think the core plugs ever save the blocks from cracking which makes them seem pretty pointless! cheers Matt
On a GPW, matching Frame, glove box data plate and engine serial number, an MB will have matching frame tag and glovebox data plate but not engine as MB engine serial numbers do not correspond to the other serial numbers
Greendot 319 You may well be right about matching numbers but very few of the jeeps I came into contact with had the original engine in them.It may be my fault too as I swapped out half a dozen or more. I guess jeeps weren’t so “precious” back then. I even drove one for years painted pink with Spiderman on the bonnet.
Did you re-sleeve the cylinders? Did you have hardened metal valve seats installed (for modern fuel)? Stitching cracks works well too. Cracks like to develop between the piston and water jacket (at the narrowest point). Could you discuss the differences between the GPW and Willys block and why the GPW is considered weaker? I paid $300 US to have my 1942 GPW block rebuilt for my Willys - it’s a jeep salad)
Hi Gary, This engine hasn't been machined yet but I do not expect it will require re-sleeving. I am going to fit hardened valve seats but they are not required for modern fuel. Unfortunately I don't know the technical detail of why the GPW block is considered weaker than the MB blocks but i'm sure someone will know on here and comments, I imagine they are just cast slightly differently, cheers Matt
Hi there First thanks for the great video Second at 58 seconds of the video you mention some website - the best for willys keep info: could you WRITE down exact website name or give link to the site. Please ? Also I am in NY USA - any sites/ suppliers you recommend for buying keep parts - I have a cj 3b Thanks mate
Hello,, your doing a great job. Ii have a question?. I have the opportunity too trade my f1000 for a fj40 or aa 1955 wiillys m38a1 iin niice shape booth of them. Which oone. You think ii should get. Love the history ooof the military jeep. Do.
Sometimes you can weld directly within the crack using spray welding. You don't need to cut a hole and fit a piece of metal. This is easier to find than oven fusion welding: ua-cam.com/video/qc9a3MfxsQA/v-deo.html Also, it might not be easy to find a Jeep specialist, but that doesn't mean you can't find someone to weld the engine. Many shops specialize in heavy diesels, and it usually pays off to weld heavy diesels, rather than throw away a core.
Thanks Matt for reply and links - much appreciated
Keep more videos coming
Jatt
Good video -- l fixed an old cast iron bell once -- preheated, welded with Supermissle Rod, peened it , started a charcoal grill fire 🔥- place in there and covered , by morning it turned out perfect. 500 pounds seems a tad high for your repair, I've seen whole Willy's engines in US for $154 pounds ($200 USD& less) -- but for your location and limited access , maybe it was worth it - Cheers 🍺
I love your channel!! You will see with time if this fixing work after testing engine in real condition...
I always was led to believe that after a furnace welding job, a block would be distorted from the heat, welding and cooling ,and thus,needed to have the main bearing and the cam bearings line bored, and the deck re ground in parallel with the base of the block. Did yours need any re alignment?
I do not believe so, I dont think it has distorted any, cheers Matt
That looks like a very successful repair, they do crack around the valve seats and on the front corners of the block, and I have used a crack detector kit to indentify these, it is just a matter of spraying on the indicator powder after spaying the marker dye then the cracks can be easily seen, there/were are a few WOF blocks available and these are much stronger than the American made blocks, but do need a little work to make them externally similar to the original block, I am sure you mean the crown wheel and pinion and not the starter ring gear, is that now good ? It is good that your block has been pressure tested to see if there are any other hairline cracks. A happy result.
Yep, all tested up so should be good for machining when it comes to it, things are going to start moving fairly quickly with the MB now I hope!
Who did the welding?
Also Brand New blocks current manufature are available ... they are expensive though.
They are, jeepsudest in France offers a complete kit for around 2000 euros which is not too bad really for a zero houred block....
@@Greendot319 .. that's not too bad really, they run about $2300 Canadiana Dollars her plus shipping here .. still I much prefer to mend the old one even ... if you have to send it out for welding ... 500 Quid is a lot cheaper :)
Mike Baxter: Interesting that the cost in Canada is similar to that in UK for an engine, yet in USA, where there are relatively few Jeeps as they were almost all left in Europe by order not to be brought back, we are told that a so cheap that it is not worth repairing them, we hear stories about engines still in crate for $150, but I have never been able to track one down, a friend did buy a new in crate engine, complete with ancillaries from USA, but it was a lot more that $150, something like $3000 I think.
@@453421abcdefg12345 ... my thought is prices have risen in recent years ... restoring of old Jeeps is getting more popular ... where in the past just getting them running for field and bush use may have been the goal
@@MikeBaxterABC Yes that is absolutely the case everywhere now, in past times no one repaired parts, they just replaced a gearbox or engine and threw the old one away, I remember seeing crossed piles of axles in the breakers yard, and wheels just went to the dump when a tyre was worn out, a Jeep was just used for hacking about in. Past times !
Hi, I a willys block completely rusted. What worry me the most is where the water goes to cool the engine as it is not accessible... would you have some advices?
ua-cam.com/video/V1W1gyOq-lo/v-deo.html
Electrolysis should help, the longer you leave it the better, You must remove the expansion plugs too, get in there with whatever you can first to remove as much rust as possible and blow it out with a compressor and air gun, cheers
Matching numbers? I owned and worked a fair few MB/GPW’s back in the day and don’t think I ever saw an engine REME had not replaced. As I imagine they could pull an engine in an hour or two they were not shy about replacing them. I doubt they worried about which engine went back in. Also not many vehicles had nomenclature affixed.Saw a few frozen cracked blocks but oddly the frost (Welch) plugs were still in tact. Poor quality castings?
Hi Bill, Loads of matching numbers GPW's around, my GPW for example, more common than not to find a matching late GPW as they weren't rebuilt during the war so all the bits stayed with one jeep. I don't think the core plugs ever save the blocks from cracking which makes them seem pretty pointless! cheers Matt
@@Greendot319 What do you mean by "matching numbers"?
On a GPW, matching Frame, glove box data plate and engine serial number, an MB will have matching frame tag and glovebox data plate but not engine as MB engine serial numbers do not correspond to the other serial numbers
Greendot 319 You may well be right about matching numbers but very few of the jeeps I came into contact with had the original engine in them.It may be my fault too as I swapped out half a dozen or more. I guess jeeps weren’t so “precious” back then. I even drove one for years painted pink with Spiderman on the bonnet.
@@billhawk349 The less said about that the better Bill ;)
It would have been nice if you showed a close up of the repaired area.
Can do next video, theres not too much to see, just a big flat patch where it was welded ;)
Lock in Stitch replaced a section of my hemi block with no welding...and I am in the desert area... No issues..
Did you re-sleeve the cylinders? Did you have hardened metal valve seats installed (for modern fuel)?
Stitching cracks works well too. Cracks like to develop between the piston and water jacket (at the narrowest point).
Could you discuss the differences between the GPW and Willys block and why the GPW is considered weaker?
I paid $300 US to have my 1942 GPW block rebuilt for my Willys - it’s a jeep salad)
Hi Gary, This engine hasn't been machined yet but I do not expect it will require re-sleeving. I am going to fit hardened valve seats but they are not required for modern fuel. Unfortunately I don't know the technical detail of why the GPW block is considered weaker than the MB blocks but i'm sure someone will know on here and comments, I imagine they are just cast slightly differently, cheers Matt
Great videos and beautiful scenery. The proper pronunciation of Willys is Willis. Looking forward to future videos.
Hi there
First thanks for the great video
Second at 58 seconds of the video you mention some website - the best for willys keep info: could you WRITE down exact website name or give link to the site. Please ?
Also I am in NY USA - any sites/ suppliers you recommend for buying keep parts - I have a cj 3b
Thanks mate
forums.g503.com I believe Ron at G503 is a good American parts supplier too, so you can use him with confidence, cheers Matt
www.rfjp.com/default.aspx?
Hello,, your doing a great job. Ii have a question?. I have the opportunity too trade my f1000 for a fj40 or aa 1955 wiillys m38a1 iin niice shape booth of them. Which oone. You think ii should get. Love the history ooof the military jeep. Do.
Unfortunately I can't Frank, its up to you, M38's are very cool though, would love a good original condition one
What's with the flag with 48 stars, Alaska and Hawaii not on? I noticed that first. Awesome videos though
Ah, you'll have to have a little look at your flag history ;) cheers Matt
Sometimes you can weld directly within the crack using spray welding. You don't need to cut a hole and fit a piece of metal. This is easier to find than oven fusion welding:
ua-cam.com/video/qc9a3MfxsQA/v-deo.html
Also, it might not be easy to find a Jeep specialist, but that doesn't mean you can't find someone to weld the engine. Many shops specialize in heavy diesels, and it usually pays off to weld heavy diesels, rather than throw away a core.
Good Points, thanks! Have a look at this option for crack welding too ua-cam.com/video/mYNniZ5i-fY/v-deo.html
cheers
Great
👍 👍 👍!!!