Pete Whittaker - Psychosomatic Pigeon E7 6C FA
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- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
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/ hotaches Pete Whittaker making First ascent of Psychosomatic Pigeon at the Burbage South, Peak District UK. Conditions weren't great, tea towels had to be taped to the wall to stop the holds getting wet. Not bad enough to stop the send though !
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This is the most British climbing route I've ever seen!
1. Wet? Check!
2. Solo most of the climb including the crux? Check!
3. Place a nest of sketchy gear? Check!
4. Clip a random peg/bolt/piton? Check!
5. Grab some foliage? Check!
6. Sheep on the top? Come on too much man!
"damn bro, looks pretty wet"
"It'll go. I'll just tape some towels to the wet spots and run it out."
"Gonna climb in England next week. How many cams should I take with me?
- A lot, man! Like, maybe even three or four!"
Great production! And impressive climbing of course, love the levitation to a small crimp at 2:52
One startled sheep at the top there
glad it didnt headbutt him
A little bit of everything in this one 👍🏼
was that hazel findlay?
Yes
@@elfriederich love that girl. and pete. keep being awesome,both. and the videographer!
Thought the sheep might knock him off!
A rought route !
What's up with the bolt?
its a sports route, artificial pre-placed aids are allowed
its grit we dont bolt grit
Looks to be a manky old aid bolt from way back when.
the music is way too loud and pretty annoying...
but why not solo it till the end?
Was half expecting the sheep to try bonk him off lol
bro doesn't Pete know that using heather is aid
Being perhaps one of the last plum ( and yes, oft wet) lines left in the Burbage valley.. and knowing of the large numbers of suitors wanting this line over time - me included 30 years ago - I would like to say Damn Fine Effort!! and there is little chance it's only E7... it's darn hard.. respect for the wet 1st ascent!! Great film, thank you!
beautiful and scary! I'll probably never understand brit's climbing ethics but I definitely find it entertaining to watch :)
LOVE the towels for seepage, Solid!
With a decent clipstick, that's a sweet sports route right?
Yeah wouldn't exactly be our definition of a sport route ..... 😂
reminds me of the old adage: 'with enough courage, anything can be a dildo'
@@balke7935 Just realised: is that why 'hot aches'? :)
Was excited for a mantel at the top on those bad slopers... but he traversed into the bushes... 🤦♂️ Still a nice climb in difficult conditions and very run out. Nice work Pete!
The crux has to be the epic bush-grab at the end.
UK climbs always look sketchy as f&$$
Wow, I'm so glad you censored the word fuck. I don't know if I could have handled reading the actual word fuck, as opposed to seeing "f&$$" and interpreting it as "fuck" anyway. Thank you. Really making a difference over here.
@@nerfzinet k
@@nerfzinet your sarcasm is too subtle…or maybe it’s just because your a d!#£.
remove the music. no music is needed. did i mention no music is needed? good, because no music is needed, too.
Beautiful! But having to faff around with moss at the top.. creepy..
Lovely work Pete!! If you’re into trimming the shrubs at the top come out to the Tetons!!🤘👍
Nice proper thrutching for the Juniper at the top.Great send !
The sheep at the end tho. :D
You have balls
第一个保护放那么高，打个挂片要死吗，如果完全要trad就不要打最后一个bolt,欧洲人真是矫情。
im so glad the sheep wasnt agro
no music is better than awful music.
Whats the song
Hi hotaches, when was this filmed? Love it!
back in 2012!
Looks amazing Pete looking forward to hearing and meeting you on Friday at the tolbooth
What's the green thing strapped to the cliff side?
a towel to soak up water seeping out the rock.
Burbage South Yorkshire??????? What the fuurrrrk
Much better without music ......
How is that E7, I don’t see it as E7, E6
Do it then you can have a legitimate say on its grading
Fortunately,the 6c bit is low down.
Whats with the bit of plastic thats attached to the rock with duct tape?
It is in the description: "Conditions weren't great, tea towels had to be taped to the wall to stop the holds getting wet. "
Great idea by the way
I have never seen such lack trad ethics as in the UK. Clipping bolts, TRing the line beforehand, using bizarre bits of gear to clip....
Decent little boulder problem with bolts.
@Pete is never wrong It climbs like a boulder problem.
@Pete is never wrong You're welcome.