Ofc your gonna stick sorbo pads in there hahahahaha do you realise that aoe is Bob on in cyma as the best pick up is at 11 clock positions and you don't strain or damage your gears and other internals. It may work but the cost effectiveness of replacing those parts is gonna be horrible as you trying to force the aeg do something its not suppose to do, ira your choice but if you want an aeg that will last for years and not break quickly then stop correcting aoe and I know this cause my cyma platinum had same issue. The puted on a longer piston head and in words corrected 'AOE' but it didn't and why you may ask cause the gear was clipping the piston teeth in 3 different sections cause of that reason and you want to know how I fixed that without aorbo pads??......... I removed 3 teeth from the rack and the end as that is what was causing it as the 1st tooth was lopping and I can see it prematurely engaging too and it burned out the motor too. Point is sorbo pads, longer cylinder head WILL BREAK IT MUCH FASTER and I was fortunate that I fixed it without making it worse.
Piston head shims are the way to go for fine tuning AOE. The more pads you add to the cylinder head the more they will compress under full spring tension. This will throw off the AOE from where you initially set it once the spring is installed.
boy am I glad you didn't say something like "correct aoe from the pistonhead because that way you don't lose air volume!" You're right that they *do* squish, but I still prefer the peace of mind from the shock dampening so I put them in with squishsquish in mind
@@j-airsoft not saying what you do here isn’t effective or anything. It will definitely work fine. It’s just food for thought for anyone that thinks chucking a fat Sorbo pad in will automatically fix you AOE.
amazing work! found the video via youtube algorithm and instantly subbed! i love the fine details of adding the heat shrink to the board wires for added protection. keep up the great work :)
Thanks! That one was a habit from doing normal m4 v2s to protect against that body pin that punches straight through right next to them, but the mp5 doesn't have that so it was kind of pointless... I have an obsession with heat shrink tubing and it's actually kind of a problem 😭
very fast guide! but why no spring on the fire selector plate? how do you keep it in full auto without it falling out so easily? I just did the installation of the perun hybrid v2 in my TM mp5a4 (old gen) and without the fire selector lever to give the fire selector plate spring a post to grab onto the gun falls out of full auto so easily and sits in no mans land.
The spring that usually sits on a selector plate serves to push the cutoff lever on the inside of the shell back into position after being bumped by the sector gear which then bumps a trigger trolley. It's for semi-auto function in a raw copper-copper trigger, and isn't used with an optical, magnetic, etc. cutoff for cycle detection. The plate should be mechanically locked via cam to your left-side selector switch and shouldn't be going anywhere unless the switch is also flopping around. Switches are held in place by a super tiny detent ball and spring hidden underneath the switch. Don't lose those, they vanish into the abyss.
I did, just wanted to slip heat shrink on near the ETU to protect the wires from the body pin - that doesn't exist on an mp5 receiver... It was a habit and I didn't think about it
I like to take full metal cylinder heads and wrap emm in thin electrical tape preferably super 33 by 3m it stretches thin enough it acts as a frequency damper and then also helps if you radius all 4 corners not just the front two of the shell this allows for the vibrations to very smoothly move throughout the whole shell instead of a focused frontal point
@@j-airsoft all around the outer edge of cylinder head more or less the front it doesn’t help so much in the case of a maxx the reason why a maxx cracks heads is because it ejects innertia into the front of the shell pushes past the padding gap increasing a joule rating while smacking into the shell
@@adriancomsha7528 any ~70D 6mm ID by 8.5mm OD tubing would work. unfortunately, it's been many years since we got this tubing so we can't remember where it came from or what it is
Higher (closer to pinion) makes it easier on the motor since the moment arm is shorter, but you don't want to shim it so high that when you get to your sector gear you shim him and end up biting the piston body
i have a question, i did a 1j 60rps gun and my PTS 150 EMP mags cannot handle the rof, u think that the problem is the mag or something else? Ty mate! And Great MP5
@@kubaorlowski8796 I'm assuming you meant epm? Anyway I noticed when i handed off a customer replica that the epm1s can't push more than like 45 rps with .28g or heavier. With .25 and below they can handle 60 easily
@@j-airsoft ahh sr yes i meant pts epm, the mags that have 150bb not emp1 with 250bb's. ok because im using a 0,25g bbs and the problem is that it lose soo much precision on full auto and im trying to find the problem, or maybe the nozzle go back before the piston end his way, because on semi auto and binary its work well without that kind of problem, same when the battery its not full charged anymore. You think that i did a bad work with tappet/nozzle/spring of tappet timing? or maybe because im using on my hop up an prometheus 60 degrees rubber and i need to use a harder one with 0.25 and this full auto speed? sr for all that questions but im trying to resolve that shit... ty bro for any answer
@@jaiveamid6393 - weaker spring, but not too weak otherwise your gears will shred the piston - remove teeth one at a time from the sector gear (shortstroking)
The battery that the owner uses is a Zeee 1500mAh 11.1 which is 68x34.5x27.5mm and the one used in the video is a Turnigy 1500mAh 11.1 at 85x35x14mm. I don't own this anymore so I can't help outside of that information
A friend of mine slapped a few bolts and some plywood together to make it, so it's one of a kind 😀 I don't even use it anymore, I just stick a mapleleaf in and it's leagues better than my handiwork
Perun hybrid ETUs use a trigger attachment with a magnet in it to detect trigger pulls. It feels VERY floaty, would recommend the Perun clicker if you choose the Perun route.
haha love the electrical tape tower shimming! Ive been using aluminum tape and its a pain to get right. What is the reason for the two-layer shrink wrap on the motor leads? Also, have you considered using J-caged bearings and XT60 battery connectors? What RPM motor? 18:1 gears? Wicked Rhop jig you got there, too.
I might steal that aluminum tape idea... The transparent bit doesn't shrink 😭heatshrink for strain relief I have Modify's JCaged bearings in my personal SR25 and Vector! Love them XT60s have been on my want-to-try list! It's a Rocket brushless motor, ~48k w/11.1v and ~68k w/14.8v (3:30, battery was low), I use a 14.8v setup in my SR25 with this motor. (I originally wanted to surprise the owner, but 14.8v on full auto actually melted the connectors... won't be recommending it) 18:1! Thanks!
Hello! Very informative video! I have one question if you could answer. What kind of brushless motor is it? It is Rocket for sure, like the other Chinese brands, but is it good enough? About characteristics I am aware, and it can hold some crazy 14.8 volt battery setup! Could you please make a video about it? how does it perform, amperage consumption and so on? It would be just great! And continue what you doing because you're definitely helping others! Cheers!
It's dead, Jim 😭 Well, at least the one I stuck into my sr25 is dead. I have one more in an m4 I can do some quick measurements with! TBD Wow that was a month ago sorry boss
This gearbox has the thicc bits where the usual crack occurs and I stuck a good 5/16" of 70D neoprene padding on it for AoE. This is typical for all of my builds so far and nothing has exploded yet! I shooooould be okay!
just a tip there bud . m140 or m150 is suppose to get higher fps than that on a 8t dsg. turns out brushless motors dont like dsgs as they almost always overpsin (partially) and causes the tappet to be picked up too fast causing fps loss. an aztech apache would work or cut the front of your tappet plate (the front area below the bar where it protrudes. ) i think m150 is suppose to get like 360 ish fps on a barrel that short.
@@Fame_Maker We plan on making a 3d printable one and putting it online, but possibly print them to order with minor assembly. The latter is pending our printer upgrade in ~15weeks
😂 LTT driver's great but my Wera bits got me covered! Haven't stripped a single screw since getting these! I would grab one, but can't justify it just to cover a PH0 as my Wera kit doesn't have that one bit
Sorry that not umarex that's cyma smg-5 lol as cyma uses a standard v2 while Umarex uses vfc gearbox also cyma old triggers were red and cyma uses blue cylinder head and piston
Ofc your gonna stick sorbo pads in there hahahahaha do you realise that aoe is Bob on in cyma as the best pick up is at 11 clock positions and you don't strain or damage your gears and other internals.
It may work but the cost effectiveness of replacing those parts is gonna be horrible as you trying to force the aeg do something its not suppose to do, ira your choice but if you want an aeg that will last for years and not break quickly then stop correcting aoe and I know this cause my cyma platinum had same issue.
The puted on a longer piston head and in words corrected 'AOE' but it didn't and why you may ask cause the gear was clipping the piston teeth in 3 different sections cause of that reason and you want to know how I fixed that without aorbo pads??......... I removed 3 teeth from the rack and the end as that is what was causing it as the 1st tooth was lopping and I can see it prematurely engaging too and it burned out the motor too.
Point is sorbo pads, longer cylinder head WILL BREAK IT MUCH FASTER and I was fortunate that I fixed it without making it worse.
☝😂😂
Insane rof over there.
I did not see something like that until now.
Love all the atention to detail for this build.
Congrats.
Piston head shims are the way to go for fine tuning AOE. The more pads you add to the cylinder head the more they will compress under full spring tension. This will throw off the AOE from where you initially set it once the spring is installed.
boy am I glad you didn't say something like "correct aoe from the pistonhead because that way you don't lose air volume!"
You're right that they *do* squish, but I still prefer the peace of mind from the shock dampening so I put them in with squishsquish in mind
@@j-airsoft not saying what you do here isn’t effective or anything. It will definitely work fine. It’s just food for thought for anyone that thinks chucking a fat Sorbo pad in will automatically fix you AOE.
@@j-airsoft what are the actual pads u are using on the cylinder head ?
@@batzarrosdefijourney6970 neoprene
amazing work! found the video via youtube algorithm and instantly subbed! i love the fine details of adding the heat shrink to the board wires for added protection. keep up the great work :)
Thanks! That one was a habit from doing normal m4 v2s to protect against that body pin that punches straight through right next to them, but the mp5 doesn't have that so it was kind of pointless... I have an obsession with heat shrink tubing and it's actually kind of a problem 😭
I always manage to make a grammar mistake in a caption somehow and it drives me insane
I feel that. Sick build! My sai gry is coming soon
i really do love the work you do.
i need more vids like this. i love watching this to relax
Always great to see the algorithm feeding me something I'm actually interested in, ez sub 15 minutes entranced
Bearings on the bevel, bushings on the rest. Very good!
no
very fast guide!
but why no spring on the fire selector plate?
how do you keep it in full auto without it falling out so easily?
I just did the installation of the perun hybrid v2 in my TM mp5a4 (old gen) and without the fire selector lever to give the fire selector plate spring a post to grab onto the gun falls out of full auto so easily and sits in no mans land.
The spring that usually sits on a selector plate serves to push the cutoff lever on the inside of the shell back into position after being bumped by the sector gear which then bumps a trigger trolley. It's for semi-auto function in a raw copper-copper trigger, and isn't used with an optical, magnetic, etc. cutoff for cycle detection. The plate should be mechanically locked via cam to your left-side selector switch and shouldn't be going anywhere unless the switch is also flopping around. Switches are held in place by a super tiny detent ball and spring hidden underneath the switch. Don't lose those, they vanish into the abyss.
when you replaced the spade connectors for the motor wires, is it mandatory to solder them or no? please respond
no
Thank you for this video. I have been struggling to find parts for mine. if you can a list would be helpful thanks
desc
'Everything else is stock.'
LOL! What else is left???
Great performance. Maybe I should try a DSG 🤔
ty for the video, rly enjoyed it
Hello my friend, I have a question at 6:14 it must be done for the dsg system for the good air shield; thanks a lot😊
this is done to make sure the gear grabs the piston at the best angle.
Hi, where can I find those little connector things that you install at 10:27? I've had issues with mine on my perun breaking.
2.8mm female spade connectors
@@j-airsoft Ah ok, thanks much!
Currently am building a mp5 dsg build to I was wondering why you dident use a warhead brushless motor
I was just trying out this motor, warheads are better than this one tho
Are you doing build for coustommers
hi, amazing video, really enjoyed it! One quick question, why not keep the old battery connections from the perun?
I did, just wanted to slip heat shrink on near the ETU to protect the wires from the body pin - that doesn't exist on an mp5 receiver... It was a habit and I didn't think about it
@@j-airsoft oh ok, thank you! Your videos made me realise how shady my airsoft gun maintenance is😂
I like to take full metal cylinder heads and wrap emm in thin electrical tape preferably super 33 by 3m it stretches thin enough it acts as a frequency damper and then also helps if you radius all 4 corners not just the front two of the shell this allows for the vibrations to very smoothly move throughout the whole shell instead of a focused frontal point
Where do you wrap them? Just above the orings? ON the orings?? Surely not the nozzle!!
I did forget to radius the rear two didn't I...
@@j-airsoft all around the outer edge of cylinder head more or less the front it doesn’t help so much in the case of a maxx the reason why a maxx cracks heads is because it ejects innertia into the front of the shell pushes past the padding gap increasing a joule rating while smacking into the shell
@@j-airsoft also re read my other statement 😉 something you wouldn’t want to miss
your work is amazing, where can i buy the r hop tube? and your impressive cutting tool. I really appreciate your work.
Thank you. My tool does the trick, but there are some REALLY nice 3d printed alternatives. You can find them on etsy and similar places.
@@j-airsoft I have already bought the tool on etsy. I need the tube to buy. What tube do you have to make r hop patches?
@@adriancomsha7528 any ~70D 6mm ID by 8.5mm OD tubing would work.
unfortunately, it's been many years since we got this tubing so we can't remember where it came from or what it is
@@j-airsoft thanks bro
When shimming the spur is it proper to favor the shimming twords the pinion or keep the shims even as possible?
Higher (closer to pinion) makes it easier on the motor since the moment arm is shorter, but you don't want to shim it so high that when you get to your sector gear you shim him and end up biting the piston body
@@j-airsoft thank you. I'm learning 🤙✌️
i have a question, i did a 1j 60rps gun and my PTS 150 EMP mags cannot handle the rof, u think that the problem is the mag or something else? Ty mate! And Great MP5
@@kubaorlowski8796 I'm assuming you meant epm? Anyway I noticed when i handed off a customer replica that the epm1s can't push more than like 45 rps with .28g or heavier. With .25 and below they can handle 60 easily
@@j-airsoft ahh sr yes i meant pts epm, the mags that have 150bb not emp1 with 250bb's. ok because im using a 0,25g bbs and the problem is that it lose soo much precision on full auto and im trying to find the problem, or maybe the nozzle go back before the piston end his way, because on semi auto and binary its work well without that kind of problem, same when the battery its not full charged anymore. You think that i did a bad work with tappet/nozzle/spring of tappet timing? or maybe because im using on my hop up an prometheus 60 degrees rubber and i need to use a harder one with 0.25 and this full auto speed?
sr for all that questions but im trying to resolve that shit... ty bro for any answer
what is that R hop patch jig? Im impressed
Just a mishmash of some razors and plywood my friends had whipped together some random afternoon about six years ago 😄
Nice grapes
😋
Would you be able to change the full stock to a collapsible one on this specific mp5?
Yes, although you'll then need to figure out where to put the battery
@@j-airsoft also i was told that running 11.1v burns the motor in these so the store sold me a 7.4v battery instead idk if thats right
@@jaiveamid6393 Nope. In a lower end gun the gears might break tho. Not this one.
How can i lower fps to 350?
@@jaiveamid6393
- weaker spring, but not too weak otherwise your gears will shred the piston
- remove teeth one at a time from the sector gear (shortstroking)
Hello can you fit Turnigy 2.2mah in that mp5 stock? ?
The battery that the owner uses is a Zeee 1500mAh 11.1 which is 68x34.5x27.5mm and the one used in the video is a Turnigy 1500mAh 11.1 at 85x35x14mm. I don't own this anymore so I can't help outside of that information
@@j-airsoft 2200mah 40c-50c turnigy size is 104x27x35mm and 2200mah 45c-90c 115x35x27mm do you think it will fit or need some modification?
hi, how should the tappet plate be cut to make the bbs fit well and have a good FPS?
what trigger is that?
stock
Nice r-hop cutting tool. Where can i get that?
A friend of mine slapped a few bolts and some plywood together to make it, so it's one of a kind 😀
I don't even use it anymore, I just stick a mapleleaf in and it's leagues better than my handiwork
What material did you use for the patch?
What is that at 14:54? Looks very fancy. Awesome video btw
a cheapo battery tester, you can do what it does with a multimeter
Contact I need a ssg mp5 built for me ??
It’s the limited cyma likes this .
hmu on discord, my tag is on my yt page
Awesome!! Did you glue the trigger spring on the actual trigger? thats genious!! What is the black part on the top of the trigger?
Perun hybrid ETUs use a trigger attachment with a magnet in it to detect trigger pulls. It feels VERY floaty, would recommend the Perun clicker if you choose the Perun route.
@@j-airsoft thank you!!
Great video subbed and liked!!1
haha love the electrical tape tower shimming! Ive been using aluminum tape and its a pain to get right.
What is the reason for the two-layer shrink wrap on the motor leads?
Also, have you considered using J-caged bearings and XT60 battery connectors?
What RPM motor? 18:1 gears?
Wicked Rhop jig you got there, too.
I might steal that aluminum tape idea...
The transparent bit doesn't shrink 😭heatshrink for strain relief
I have Modify's JCaged bearings in my personal SR25 and Vector! Love them
XT60s have been on my want-to-try list!
It's a Rocket brushless motor, ~48k w/11.1v and ~68k w/14.8v (3:30, battery was low), I use a 14.8v setup in my SR25 with this motor. (I originally wanted to surprise the owner, but 14.8v on full auto actually melted the connectors... won't be recommending it)
18:1!
Thanks!
What kind of greases do you use?
Super Lube silicone oil for seals and Super Lube synthetic grease for meshing metal
@@j-airsoft what are you using for your bearings?
I put a toilet paper tube in my MP5 stock to keep the battery for rattling around.
why did you install the nub like that :(
LMAO I was stubborn and didn't want to take it apart
Hello, can u say me all products you're using like grease, lubrificants, etc ? Thanks, and nice video :D
Wera drivers, rotary tool, SuperLube silicone grease, SuperLube silicone oil, white lithium grease, Hakko FX-888D, and a hammer about sums it up.
man just used superglue to hold the trigger spring in. My mind... blown.
Hello! Very informative video! I have one question if you could answer. What kind of brushless motor is it? It is Rocket for sure, like the other Chinese brands, but is it good enough? About characteristics I am aware, and it can hold some crazy 14.8 volt battery setup! Could you please make a video about it? how does it perform, amperage consumption and so on? It would be just great! And continue what you doing because you're definitely helping others! Cheers!
It's dead, Jim 😭
Well, at least the one I stuck into my sr25 is dead. I have one more in an m4 I can do some quick measurements with! TBD
Wow that was a month ago sorry boss
@@j-airsoft oh. So not good enough I suppose. Thanks!
What is the gear ratio
18:1
maxx cylinder head can crack gearbox shell
This gearbox has the thicc bits where the usual crack occurs and I stuck a good 5/16" of 70D neoprene padding on it for AoE. This is typical for all of my builds so far and nothing has exploded yet! I shooooould be okay!
@@j-airsoft i also own one and thinking about replacing pad with 3d printed shim or something
just a tip there bud . m140 or m150 is suppose to get higher fps than that on a 8t dsg. turns out brushless motors dont like dsgs as they almost always overpsin (partially) and causes the tappet to be picked up too fast causing fps loss. an aztech apache would work or cut the front of your tappet plate (the front area below the bar where it protrudes. ) i think m150 is suppose to get like 360 ish fps on a barrel that short.
request was for a sub 0.8J DSG and that's what left my hands~
@@j-airsoft ah i see. But thats what i noticed with dsgs. The tappet timing matters but the tappet pickup also matters
Whered you get that rhop cutter?
plywood, wood screws, razor blades, and a table saw
@@j-airsoft could you or whoever made it make me one? Ill cover the cost of parts and work
@@Fame_Maker We plan on making a 3d printable one and putting it online, but possibly print them to order with minor assembly. The latter is pending our printer upgrade in ~15weeks
@@Fame_Maker turns out, the internet has already done 3d printed jigs; I'd just grab one of those
@@j-airsoft alright. Is it possible to put a lonex spiral on a t238?
What motor is? And what rpm?
rpm =50x60=3000rpm
My man get an LTT Screwdriver what are you doing
😂 LTT driver's great but my Wera bits got me covered! Haven't stripped a single screw since getting these! I would grab one, but can't justify it just to cover a PH0 as my Wera kit doesn't have that one bit
this video made me want grapes
🍇🍇🍇
7 or 8 mm?
bearings? 8mm
tappet? idr i cut it where the sector drops it
Sorry that not umarex that's cyma smg-5 lol as cyma uses a standard v2 while Umarex uses vfc gearbox also cyma old triggers were red and cyma uses blue cylinder head and piston
They slapped their branding on it
im using paper to shim all gears 😂
😱
ASMR battery toy building lmao