Hi James,re your question about the horsebox,perhaps you could design & print a 3d resin underframe to replace the existing one, bearing in mind it looks to have Mansell wheels & vacuuum fittings which were designed for running at higher speeds in passenger trains.As shown in the drawing it is based on Great Western design & so should be repainted in GW colours,but horseboxes from all different , companies traveled from their home stations to race meetings around the country so it would be quite appropriate to have a GW horsebox on your layout, maybe having traveled from say Lambourne to a race meeting near to Bexhill
Hi James,further to your question about horsebox movements, draught horses were still widely used well after World War 2, by farmers & local haulage firms, so horseboxes would have been moving all around the country, delivering horses & taking them to markets for sale. Bear in mind,when loaded the horsebox would be marshalled directly behind the engine to minimize rock & sway in passenger trains, or special trains of horseboxes for race meetings & horsefairs/ markets.Hope this answers your question By the way ,could have a copy of the Stl of the wagon underframe ? Cheers
You one thing you will need are books on wagons, carriages etc, many of which contain drawings. There are also a number of websites, where drawings an be purchased :Lists of suitable kits can also be found for most odf the raileway companies. Perhaps looking at photos of your chosen location will give you inspiration, as to that which you would like to include. Most of us have far more stock than we could ever run..
Thank you so much Chris. You're right, we do all have lots to learn - myself especially. The feedback though here and via email has been fantastic and I've been learning loads. All the best, James
I only subscribed an hour ago and here I am watching more, this should tell you that you are doing it right. Another very interesting video that I thoroughly enjoyed! Well done again!
Hi Phil, I'm still very new to making videos, and am still learning. Thank you for your feedback. Sometimes I upload and experience instant regret. It's always nice to know that my little videos are appreciated however crude they may be . Thanks for watching, James
For more details about southern and constituents wagons and coaches the following references may be helpful: The various books by Mike King on southern wagons and carriages, of which there are several different ones. Mike also produces scale drawings of southern coaches, wagons and units. I think it was oakwood press who published a series of books covering all the various carriages of the southern railway and pre group comp, such as SECR carriages. Those would give you a good research basis, though some might be harder to find due to being out of print. I'm not currently at home to check my books to double check the titles however.
Thank you very much. I have 'Bogie Carriages of the SECR' by Mike King, and would love to get hold of a copy of his book 'An illustrated history of southen coaches'. I'm hoping a second-hand copy might appear, that would be especially helpful for my 1958 project, for which I am preparing a video at present. Upon your recommendation, I shall give Ebay a look. My best wishes, James
@@BexhillWest Yes, that is one of the books I was referring to. It can be hard to find. Have you tried contacting places like Bill Hudson Books and searching abebooks.co.uk ? they can usually be good sources to search for these sorts of books. You might also find An Illustrated History of Southern Wagons Volume 3 of interest as that one relates to the SECR. There are others for the LBSC and LSWR, some of which would have appeared in Bexhill depending upon your time period. On the subject of buildings, you might find the book Southern Nouveau: And the Lineside worth checking out. Finally, the journal Southern Way is very much worth checking out, there are 50+ issues, with a number of specials, and Bexhill would have been covered a number of times. Theres an index to the articles at: s548745873.websitehome.co.uk/msrsourcev2/tpagesrs/tsouthernway.html
Of course one issue is you need to know if the laser is setup to cut down your line centrally or of it's setup to cut your components to actual size, which is why I've had the laser company I deal with cut a small test card for me, hopefully getting that later this week, on the other hand a different company I'm having laser cut metal knew exactly what I was asking this morning told me the beam diameter for cutting sub 1mm thick metal (it's 0.1mm) and confirmed that their machine will apply the offset automatically. Thats another thing most people don't realise, industrial lasers are not perfectly parallel, (though they are very close) but this means in effect that the thicker the material you cut through the wider the kerf, this becomes particularly important when cutting slots as the inside corners will have a radius no less than that of the beam, so a beam diameter of 1mm (as a simple example) will give you a minimum of 0.5mm radius in any inside corner which must be allowed for ;-)
Some interesting points David, and I couldn’t agree more. There are some really impressive industrial systems, and alternative processes too. Water Jet cutting is another option which for some jobs is even more suitable. I will shortly be getting some components water cut and will see if I can get some footage of the process which might help to explain why and when this process can be advantageous. Until then, thanks for your original question, it’s given plenty of food for thought.
Hi James - I see you are just shy of 300 Subs which is well deserved as it is a fascinating series. What you must be delighted with is the success of the 3D printing of the wagon chassis. And I will be very interested to see who you get on making a body as this will open up a host of possibilities. Its always frustrating looking for a wagon that is hard to get hold of RTR......…….Cheers Kev
Thank you Kev, as I reply the counter has just ticked over the 300 - I can't believe it! It is so encouraging that others have been enjoying the videos. Yes, I have been pleased with my first efforts with the 3d printer, the step-up in quality from my previous experiences has been remarkable, so expect to see more experiments with it in future. There's lots of little bits to do for a certain engine shed first though. :) All the best Kev, James
i personally think that with a bit of refinement, 3d printing could be great for the future of model railways, imagine being able to download the CAD of a certain loco and simply printing it out! cheers, Adam - St Brian's Layout
The vast majority of Model railway enthusiasts tend to do rolling stock (Locos and wagons) as the mainstay, unfortunately, most tend to consider their labours in design as personal IP and don't share, even those few that do, tend to want some recompense for their efforts and make a charge! I find it surprising how few designs are available to download on the net, when I know they are being made behind closed doors, as only the resultant print is ever shared!
Laser cutters, 3D printers, computer design software - I am amazed at their huge potential in model making and I think your foray into scratchbuilding rolling stock just demonstrates the possiblities even further. Can you tell me what model of 3D printer you use and whether they come with their own design suite, or is CAD a requirement to use one? Thank you for another inspirational video.
Hi Paul, I’ve purchased an Elegoo Mars following a positive recommendation from a friend. It doesn’t come with any design software as such, but is supplied with software which will very simply enable one to print a 3D file which has been bought or downloaded. Thanks for watching, James
Really enjoyed my first look at Bexhill West following Mikes recommendation, the Coatbridge canopies you are producing for him are quite something. Fascinated also by your comments on the laser printing of wagons, it does seem to be the way many aspects of this hobby are going. I can think of one or two big projects of my own where a tool like this would be invaluable but I suspect the learning curve is quite steep. Perhaps you can shed some light on that for me. Looking forward to the next video anyway. Paul
Thank you Paul, and thanks for watching. I’ve been following your progress and really enjoy videos. Your recent signal box series was brilliant. My first experiences with the 3D printer have been really positive and so much more impressive that machines I have used in the past. The actual printing process is really very simple indeed, it is the CAD side where the leaning curve can be troublesome. I am starting a CAD series very soon which I hope may shed some light in this area. Until then if you have any specific thoughts or needs feel free to drop me an email: make it miniature [at] outlook.com. I’d be delighted to hear from you. My best wishes, James
Thank you for your fabulous vidios, they are very informative and pleasent to watch. Have you tried Knotting which is a Shellac based product use for sealing knotts in wood prior to painting, to stop sap bleading through the paint finish. Would love to see a video on your laser cutter please
Thank you Chris, a great suggestion. I haven't tried knotting compound yet, although (and I might be wrong) I think the product I suggest in the video is shellac based so I think your suggestion is likely to work equally well. After I uploaded the video I thought it might be a good idea to do some product comparisons in a future video. When I do I'll include the tip - thanks. Also plenty of laser cutting videos to come. :) James
Hi James many thanks for your informative, easy to follow video. One question I have is could you print multiple units at once - for instance 20 or so cows in N scale or OO rather than print each item seperately. If this can be done could I request a video on how to please... Cheers Chris
Hi Chris, Yes, you can multiple copies of items in one print session. A herd of cows would be no problem. It's very easy and logical to set-up to do as well. That's a great video suggestion, I'll add it to the list and cover it in my next 3d printing video. Thanks for watching, and for the support.
Hi James, have recently come across your channel- amazing work you are producing ! I am particularly interested in the wagon underframe You designed especially with the floating axleboxes . is it possible to get a copy of the STL ? Carry on the great work.
Hi James - very informative particularly regarding the variation in thickness of nominally 1mm sheets. Apologies if this has been answered previously in the thread (can't see it), what is the 3D design software that you are using to generate the models?
That's a great suggestion, I think I will investigate whether it is possible to purchase short lengths. Chopping 50mm off the end of a fishing rod might get expensive. It's a good idea though, thank you. My best wishes, James
I am new to this channel and found it very interesting. The non-focusing of the camera was really annoying though! I appreciate it is new to you but perhaps the focus can be locked in future?
Thank you Mike. You are quite correct about the annoying focus issues. I have just purchased the camera in the hope it would improve the quality, but its sophistication is a little beyond me. I'm working on it, and thanks to your suggestion I have now discovered how to lock the focus. Best wishes, James
Fab video! Soon you will be producing your own rolling stock and maybe even coaches! Again I will ask what make your 3D printer is and what software you are using? Thanks for a great video which has started me thinking!
Thank you Wamgoc, I think the possibilities for 3D printing are almost limitless. I’m using an Elegoo Mars printer and Solidworks software. To be honest Solidworks is a very high-end piece of software and there are many other lower cost or free options which would probably be more suitable. I will be making a video on some of these options shortly. My best wishes, James
Thank you Bryn, I’m pleased you enjoyed the video. I’ve used several laser cutters, including outsourcing the jobs to commercial cutters when I’ve needed extra capacity. Most recently I have been using a techsoft laser at work, which is a relatively expensive machine, but have had excellent results with a much cheaper HPC machine as well. In my experience, (and I am certainly no expert), if one understands the operating parameters of the machine then achieving quality results is possible on just about any machine. As the price goes up, then the cutting speeds and ease of use tends to improve rather than the quality of the cut. I will cover my thoughts on laser selection in a video very soon. Thanks for watching, James
Wow, another fascinating video James. Very well explained and very addictive viewing. As a matter of interest which make and model of printer did you buy; and what is the maximum bed size? BTW Am beginning to wonder whether Father Christmas could get one down one of our chimneys. :-) Take care, keep safe and thank you again, john c
Hi John, I cannot recall off of the top of my head the print size of the Elegoo Mars machine which I have just purchased. It’s not huge, something like 115mm x 70mm at a guess. I should think Father Christmas would have no trouble getting one down your chimney. Sadly, I don’t think I don’t think I will have been good enough this year, so have opted to buy my own!! 😀
Thank you Peter, I’m pleased you have found the video useful. I use a selection of software, Libra CAD (free to download), AutoCad, and Techsoft 2d Design at work. For 3D work I tend to use Solidworks, but also use Fusion360. It really depends upon the job I’m doing as to which I choose to use. I’ve just bought an Elegoo Mars 3D printer, and have used a variety of laser cutters. My thoughts on laser cutters being that it is often more cost effective to outsource this process. I will be explaining more in a future video in which I hope to clarify this final point.
So I got my wooden test parts laser cut and they arrived today I was curious to see just how bad a commercial cutter might be, now don't get me wrong, for the majority of what these guys do the work is absolutely fine someone cutting paper or fabric or big bits of perspex is not going to worry if their component is out by a few 10ths of a mm but at H0 scale one 1oth of a mm = near as makes no difference 9mm, 2 10ths is the typical thickness of a fine window mullion. So I had them cut me a nice simple shape, a rectangular card with rounded corners inside a frame of the same proportions, inside there was a 20mm circle and a 20mm square cut out The results Square 20.2mm x 20.4mm the circle had become distorted by the same amount The rectangular card they were in was supposed to be 70mm x 40 mm It's 69.5 x 39.7 with the hole 70.2 x 40.4' So from this we can determine the kerf is 0.35mm in a 3mm sheet, but on the x axis it is .25 inside the line .1 outside whilst on the y axis it's .15 inside the line and .2 outside ! Now what does this mean for the fine scale model maker, 1. Always ensure your items are cut on the same machine every machine is slightly different 2. Always ensure you have things cut in the same orientation i.e the x axis of your model must be the x axis of the machine 3. Any curved shape will be a major pain if you plan to have something fitting inside it All of the above can be dealt with IF you know the setup
Hi Stuart, I purchased it on ebay. There are several F J Roche titles, all of which are fascinating. You can pick them up quite cheaply too which is a bonus. Thanks for watching, James
Peco do an 0 gauge chassis kit with compensation using a sliding axle box like yours and working leaf springs integrated with the axle box. Requires a pliable plastic for the springs to flex. I have used a 3D printed rocking yoke method for compensation. Details here amodelrailway.blogspot.com/2019/04/0-gauge-15t-ballast-wagon-hut-carrier.html
Thank you David. I've just caught a quick read of your blog post before I have to nip out for work. Fascinating stuff, indeed. I'll be back later to have a fuller read-through. I will also be having a look at those PECO wagons. I've got some fine Phosphor Bronze wire somewhere which I think I might be able to use for springing - I just need to find it first! All the best, James
Hi James,re your question about the horsebox,perhaps you could design & print a 3d resin underframe to replace the existing one, bearing in mind it looks to have Mansell wheels & vacuuum fittings which were designed for running at higher speeds in passenger trains.As shown in the drawing it is based on Great Western design & so should be repainted in GW colours,but horseboxes from all different , companies traveled from their home stations to race meetings around the country so it would be quite appropriate to have a GW horsebox on your layout, maybe having traveled from say Lambourne to a race meeting near to Bexhill
Hi James,further to your question about horsebox movements, draught horses were still widely used well after World War 2, by farmers & local haulage firms, so horseboxes would have been moving all around the country, delivering horses & taking them to markets for sale. Bear in mind,when loaded the horsebox would be marshalled directly behind the engine to minimize rock & sway in passenger trains, or special trains of horseboxes for race meetings & horsefairs/ markets.Hope this answers your question
By the way ,could have a copy of the Stl of the wagon underframe ? Cheers
You one thing you will need are books on wagons, carriages etc, many of which contain drawings. There are also a number of websites, where drawings an be purchased :Lists of suitable kits can also be found for most odf the raileway companies. Perhaps looking at photos of your chosen location will give you inspiration, as to that which you would like to include. Most of us have far more stock than we could ever run..
Another great video, informative and well presented. Keep them coming we all have lots to learn.
Thank you so much Chris. You're right, we do all have lots to learn - myself especially. The feedback though here and via email has been fantastic and I've been learning loads.
All the best,
James
I only subscribed an hour ago and here I am watching more, this should tell you that you are doing it right. Another very interesting video that I thoroughly enjoyed! Well done again!
Hi Phil, I'm still very new to making videos, and am still learning. Thank you for your feedback. Sometimes I upload and experience instant regret. It's always nice to know that my little videos are appreciated however crude they may be .
Thanks for watching, James
Food for thought. As ever very clearly explained and well presented.
Thank you so much, that’s very kind.
For more details about southern and constituents wagons and coaches the following references may be helpful:
The various books by Mike King on southern wagons and carriages, of which there are several different ones. Mike also produces scale drawings of southern coaches, wagons and units.
I think it was oakwood press who published a series of books covering all the various carriages of the southern railway and pre group comp, such as SECR carriages.
Those would give you a good research basis, though some might be harder to find due to being out of print. I'm not currently at home to check my books to double check the titles however.
Thank you very much. I have 'Bogie Carriages of the SECR' by Mike King, and would love to get hold of a copy of his book 'An illustrated history of southen coaches'. I'm hoping a second-hand copy might appear, that would be especially helpful for my 1958 project, for which I am preparing a video at present. Upon your recommendation, I shall give Ebay a look.
My best wishes,
James
@@BexhillWest Yes, that is one of the books I was referring to. It can be hard to find. Have you tried contacting places like Bill Hudson Books and searching abebooks.co.uk ? they can usually be good sources to search for these sorts of books.
You might also find An Illustrated History of Southern Wagons Volume 3 of interest as that one relates to the SECR. There are others for the LBSC and LSWR, some of which would have appeared in Bexhill depending upon your time period.
On the subject of buildings, you might find the book Southern Nouveau: And the Lineside worth checking out.
Finally, the journal Southern Way is very much worth checking out, there are 50+ issues, with a number of specials, and Bexhill would have been covered a number of times. Theres an index to the articles at: s548745873.websitehome.co.uk/msrsourcev2/tpagesrs/tsouthernway.html
Of course one issue is you need to know if the laser is setup to cut down your line centrally or of it's setup to cut your components to actual size, which is why I've had the laser company I deal with cut a small test card for me, hopefully getting that later this week, on the other hand a different company I'm having laser cut metal knew exactly what I was asking this morning told me the beam diameter for cutting sub 1mm thick metal (it's 0.1mm) and confirmed that their machine will apply the offset automatically. Thats another thing most people don't realise, industrial lasers are not perfectly parallel, (though they are very close) but this means in effect that the thicker the material you cut through the wider the kerf, this becomes particularly important when cutting slots as the inside corners will have a radius no less than that of the beam, so a beam diameter of 1mm (as a simple example) will give you a minimum of 0.5mm radius in any inside corner which must be allowed for ;-)
Some interesting points David, and I couldn’t agree more. There are some really impressive industrial systems, and alternative processes too. Water Jet cutting is another option which for some jobs is even more suitable. I will shortly be getting some components water cut and will see if I can get some footage of the process which might help to explain why and when this process can be advantageous.
Until then, thanks for your original question, it’s given plenty of food for thought.
Hi James - I see you are just shy of 300 Subs which is well deserved as it is a fascinating series. What you must be delighted with is the success of the 3D printing of the wagon chassis. And I will be very interested to see who you get on making a body as this will open up a host of possibilities. Its always frustrating looking for a wagon that is hard to get hold of RTR......…….Cheers Kev
Thank you Kev, as I reply the counter has just ticked over the 300 - I can't believe it! It is so encouraging that others have been enjoying the videos.
Yes, I have been pleased with my first efforts with the 3d printer, the step-up in quality from my previous experiences has been remarkable, so expect to see more experiments with it in future. There's lots of little bits to do for a certain engine shed first though. :)
All the best Kev,
James
i personally think that with a bit of refinement, 3d printing could be great for the future of model railways, imagine being able to download the CAD of a certain loco and simply printing it out! cheers, Adam - St Brian's Layout
I couldn’t agree more Adam, the potential is huge and I’m looking forward to lots more experimentation. Thanks for watching.
The vast majority of Model railway enthusiasts tend to do rolling stock (Locos and wagons) as the mainstay, unfortunately, most tend to consider their labours in design as personal IP and don't share, even those few that do, tend to want some recompense for their efforts and make a charge! I find it surprising how few designs are available to download on the net, when I know they are being made behind closed doors, as only the resultant print is ever shared!
Laser cutters, 3D printers, computer design software - I am amazed at their huge potential in model making and I think your foray into scratchbuilding rolling stock just demonstrates the possiblities even further. Can you tell me what model of 3D printer you use and whether they come with their own design suite, or is CAD a requirement to use one? Thank you for another inspirational video.
Hi Paul, I’ve purchased an Elegoo Mars following a positive recommendation from a friend. It doesn’t come with any design software as such, but is supplied with software which will very simply enable one to print a 3D file which has been bought or downloaded. Thanks for watching, James
Really enjoyed my first look at Bexhill West following Mikes recommendation, the Coatbridge canopies you are producing for him are quite something. Fascinated also by your comments on the laser printing of wagons, it does seem to be the way many aspects of this hobby are going. I can think of one or two big projects of my own where a tool like this would be invaluable but I suspect the learning curve is quite steep. Perhaps you can shed some light on that for me. Looking forward to the next video anyway. Paul
Thank you Paul, and thanks for watching. I’ve been following your progress and really enjoy videos. Your recent signal box series was brilliant. My first experiences with the 3D printer have been really positive and so much more impressive that machines I have used in the past. The actual printing process is really very simple indeed, it is the CAD side where the leaning curve can be troublesome. I am starting a CAD series very soon which I hope may shed some light in this area. Until then if you have any specific thoughts or needs feel free to drop me an email: make it miniature [at] outlook.com. I’d be delighted to hear from you. My best wishes, James
Hi Paul, JFYI, I have just started a CAD tutorial here, ua-cam.com/play/PLCTwvG8n5YcQHZpGcBmAI4yephiIykEeH.html from episode #008
Thank you for your fabulous vidios, they are very informative and pleasent to watch. Have you tried Knotting which is a Shellac based product use for sealing knotts in wood prior to painting, to stop sap bleading through the paint finish.
Would love to see a video on your laser cutter please
Thank you Chris, a great suggestion. I haven't tried knotting compound yet, although (and I might be wrong) I think the product I suggest in the video is shellac based so I think your suggestion is likely to work equally well.
After I uploaded the video I thought it might be a good idea to do some product comparisons in a future video. When I do I'll include the tip - thanks.
Also plenty of laser cutting videos to come. :)
James
Hi James many thanks for your informative, easy to follow video. One question I have is could you print multiple units at once - for instance 20 or so cows in N scale or OO rather than print each item seperately. If this can be done could I request a video on how to please... Cheers Chris
Hi Chris,
Yes, you can multiple copies of items in one print session. A herd of cows would be no problem. It's very easy and logical to set-up to do as well. That's a great video suggestion, I'll add it to the list and cover it in my next 3d printing video. Thanks for watching, and for the support.
Hi James, have recently come across your channel- amazing work you are producing ! I am particularly interested in the wagon underframe You designed especially with the floating axleboxes . is it possible to get a copy of the STL ? Carry on the great work.
Good tip on the primer
Thank you David.
Which 3D printed did you buy and can it be changed so that you can put a drill bit in instead of laser. Also how much was it. Thanks
Hi James - very informative particularly regarding the variation in thickness of nominally 1mm sheets. Apologies if this has been answered previously in the thread (can't see it), what is the 3D design software that you are using to generate the models?
Hollow fishing rod blanks for the poles? They do taper to a small degree.
That's a great suggestion, I think I will investigate whether it is possible to purchase short lengths. Chopping 50mm off the end of a fishing rod might get expensive. It's a good idea though, thank you.
My best wishes,
James
I am new to this channel and found it very interesting. The non-focusing of the camera was really annoying though! I appreciate it is new to you but perhaps the focus can be locked in future?
Thank you Mike. You are quite correct about the annoying focus issues. I have just purchased the camera in the hope it would improve the quality, but its sophistication is a little beyond me. I'm working on it, and thanks to your suggestion I have now discovered how to lock the focus.
Best wishes,
James
Fab video!
Soon you will be producing your own rolling stock and maybe even coaches!
Again I will ask what make your 3D printer is and what software you are using?
Thanks for a great video which has started me thinking!
Thank you Wamgoc, I think the possibilities for 3D printing are almost limitless. I’m using an Elegoo Mars printer and Solidworks software. To be honest Solidworks is a very high-end piece of software and there are many other lower cost or free options which would probably be more suitable. I will be making a video on some of these options shortly. My best wishes, James
Bexhill West Thanks for the info!
Really enjoyed this video. What make of laser cutter do you have and are you happy with it? Am looking to purchase one in the near future. Thanks.
Thank you Bryn, I’m pleased you enjoyed the video. I’ve used several laser cutters, including outsourcing the jobs to commercial cutters when I’ve needed extra capacity. Most recently I have been using a techsoft laser at work, which is a relatively expensive machine, but have had excellent results with a much cheaper HPC machine as well. In my experience, (and I am certainly no expert), if one understands the operating parameters of the machine then achieving quality results is possible on just about any machine. As the price goes up, then the cutting speeds and ease of use tends to improve rather than the quality of the cut. I will cover my thoughts on laser selection in a video very soon. Thanks for watching, James
@@BexhillWest Thanks for that, looking forward to seeing the video
Wow, another fascinating video James. Very well explained and very addictive viewing. As a matter of interest which make and model of printer did you buy; and what is the maximum bed size?
BTW Am beginning to wonder whether Father Christmas could get one down one of our chimneys. :-) Take care, keep safe and thank you again, john c
Hi John, I cannot recall off of the top of my head the print size of the Elegoo Mars machine which I have just purchased. It’s not huge, something like 115mm x 70mm at a guess. I should think Father Christmas would have no trouble getting one down your chimney. Sadly, I don’t think I don’t think I will have been good enough this year, so have opted to buy my own!! 😀
Intresting stuff what 3d printer and laser cutter are you using and what software do you do all your cad on ?
Thank you Peter, I’m pleased you have found the video useful. I use a selection of software, Libra CAD (free to download), AutoCad, and Techsoft 2d Design at work. For 3D work I tend to use Solidworks, but also use Fusion360. It really depends upon the job I’m doing as to which I choose to use. I’ve just bought an Elegoo Mars 3D printer, and have used a variety of laser cutters. My thoughts on laser cutters being that it is often more cost effective to outsource this process. I will be explaining more in a future video in which I hope to clarify this final point.
So I got my wooden test parts laser cut and they arrived today I was curious to see just how bad a commercial cutter might be, now don't get me wrong, for the majority of what these guys do the work is absolutely fine someone cutting paper or fabric or big bits of perspex is not going to worry if their component is out by a few 10ths of a mm but at H0 scale one 1oth of a mm = near as makes no difference 9mm, 2 10ths is the typical thickness of a fine window mullion. So I had them cut me a nice simple shape, a rectangular card with rounded corners inside a frame of the same proportions, inside there was a 20mm circle and a 20mm square cut out
The results
Square 20.2mm x 20.4mm the circle had become distorted by the same amount
The rectangular card they were in was supposed to be 70mm x 40 mm It's 69.5 x 39.7 with the hole 70.2 x 40.4'
So from this we can determine the kerf is 0.35mm in a 3mm sheet, but on the x axis it is .25 inside the line .1 outside whilst on the y axis it's .15 inside the line and .2 outside !
Now what does this mean for the fine scale model maker,
1. Always ensure your items are cut on the same machine every machine is slightly different
2. Always ensure you have things cut in the same orientation i.e the x axis of your model must be the x axis of the machine
3. Any curved shape will be a major pain if you plan to have something fitting inside it
All of the above can be dealt with IF you know the setup
Thank you for this David, some great food for thought there. I've sent you an email btw.
All the best,
James
You look like Warren Huart from produce like a Pro. Any relatiion?
Excellent thankyou
Thank you Mark. I'm pleased you enjoyed the video.
hi where did you get the book off wagons
Hi Stuart, I purchased it on ebay. There are several F J Roche titles, all of which are fascinating. You can pick them up quite cheaply too which is a bonus.
Thanks for watching,
James
@@BexhillWest thanks james i just bought one thank you
Peco do an 0 gauge chassis kit with compensation using a sliding axle box like yours and working leaf springs integrated with the axle box. Requires a pliable plastic for the springs to flex. I have used a 3D printed rocking yoke method for compensation. Details here amodelrailway.blogspot.com/2019/04/0-gauge-15t-ballast-wagon-hut-carrier.html
Thank you David. I've just caught a quick read of your blog post before I have to nip out for work. Fascinating stuff, indeed. I'll be back later to have a fuller read-through. I will also be having a look at those PECO wagons. I've got some fine Phosphor Bronze wire somewhere which I think I might be able to use for springing - I just need to find it first!
All the best,
James