Thank you a million times for the great idea. Tonight, I just did my 113 Craftsman that I have had since 1983. It never cut well. I just replaced the bearings with SKF precision, cleaned and lubed it all up, changed motor to 2hp, pulleys, ax belt and all new Freud blades. It has the Exactirip fence. When I went to align it, I found the flange had 2 thousandths of runout on the face. and 11 thousandths at 9 inches out on a new 1.8" blade. I set everything up sort of like you did, but I used one clamp, did a lot of measuring to get the arbor .25 deg of parallel to the top. I set a 1/2" tall stone to touch the high side of the flange and started the motors and cranked the arbor up and down several times to even out the cut until no more sparks. Then I took a small brass hammer and !lightly! tapped the router base. Repeated the grind and cranking till no more sparks, rinse and repeat. By very light taps, It only moved a couple of tenths each time... After several grinds the entire surface was done. Then switched to a higher grit stone and repeated one grind, leaving a near mirror finish. Results were fantastic. 2.5 tenths runout measured with a Mitutoyo dial test indicator. Blade now reads only 1 one thousandths. Great way to do it, but tedious as all good things can be. Can't wait to get all the alignments done and try some cuts. Thanks again!!!
Did it exactly how you described and it worked like a charm. Took more time to pull out and setup the router than it did to actually true the arbor. I did place my bit at about 1:30 on the arbor. This allowed my bit to clear the shaft. It also allowed me to move the arbor up and down slightly in the middle of my cutting, just to try to make things better. I let it run until there were no sparks. No sparks = no wobble. Awesome. Thanks.
I never thought to check the mounting flange. That's genius 👏👏👏 Bravo! Just a suggestion but if you could use a grinding stone bit that has a flat end you could get closer if not all the way to the shank of the mount and reduce the wobble even more. My Dremel came with a flat end stone but different products in different areas maybe. I've never seen the rounded tip and now I want one LOL!
Thank you for your comment, my friend. For this purpose round end stone work as good as flat one just because of i need to grind a thin strip on the edge of the flange. Thanks
Thanks so much for this. I have a similar issue with table saw and would like to try your method. Where did you get a dremel bit with a shank that fits the Bosch router? (I assume you have a collet of 6.3 mm) Cheers!
An update to my previous post. The saw runs smoother and cuts better than it ever did. Not only that, but it is much, much, quieter. Since the blade is running true, there is near zero wobble to make noise, I keep my blades clean, check for flatness, and keep the saw adjusted square. ( the PALS kit helps a LOT for this.)
Привет, друзья. Спасибо большое. Я не забыл про свое обещание. Несколько дней назад я разбирал станок чтобы перетащить его в более просторную мастерскую, заодно и видео снял, почти смонтировал. Чертеж тоже почти готов, выложу бесплатно, так что еще немного и каждый желающий сможет смастерить себе такой же. Жмите в колокол, чтобы не пропустить :) спасибо
Thank you a million times for the great idea. Tonight, I just did my 113 Craftsman that I have had since 1983. It never cut well. I just replaced the bearings with SKF precision, cleaned and lubed it all up, changed motor to 2hp, pulleys, ax belt and all new Freud blades. It has the Exactirip fence. When I went to align it, I found the flange had 2 thousandths of runout on the face. and 11 thousandths at 9 inches out on a new 1.8" blade. I set everything up sort of like you did, but I used one clamp, did a lot of measuring to get the arbor .25 deg of parallel to the top. I set a 1/2" tall stone to touch the high side of the flange and started the motors and cranked the arbor up and down several times to even out the cut until no more sparks. Then I took a small brass hammer and !lightly! tapped the router base. Repeated the grind and cranking till no more sparks, rinse and repeat. By very light taps, It only moved a couple of tenths each time... After several grinds the entire surface was done. Then switched to a higher grit stone and repeated one grind, leaving a near mirror finish. Results were fantastic. 2.5 tenths runout measured with a Mitutoyo dial test indicator. Blade now reads only 1 one thousandths. Great way to do it, but tedious as all good things can be. Can't wait to get all the alignments done and try some cuts. Thanks again!!!
Did it exactly how you described and it worked like a charm. Took more time to pull out and setup the router than it did to actually true the arbor. I did place my bit at about 1:30 on the arbor. This allowed my bit to clear the shaft. It also allowed me to move the arbor up and down slightly in the middle of my cutting, just to try to make things better. I let it run until there were no sparks. No sparks = no wobble. Awesome. Thanks.
Genius! I HAVE to try this out since my table saw has too much wobble/run out to be acceptable. Thanks for sharing! 👍
Very Nice job!!!💯👍👌
I never thought to check the mounting flange. That's genius 👏👏👏 Bravo!
Just a suggestion but if you could use a grinding stone bit that has a flat end you could get closer if not all the way to the shank of the mount and reduce the wobble even more. My Dremel came with a flat end stone but different products in different areas maybe. I've never seen the rounded tip and now I want one LOL!
Thank you for your comment, my friend. For this purpose round end stone work as good as flat one just because of i need to grind a thin strip on the edge of the flange. Thanks
Excelent !! ⭐️ ⭐️ ⭐️ ⭐️ ⭐️
Thanks so much for this. I have a similar issue with table saw and would like to try your method. Where did you get a dremel bit with a shank that fits the Bosch router?
(I assume you have a collet of 6.3 mm)
Cheers!
Great idea, thanks for sharing! :-)
An update to my previous post. The saw runs smoother and cuts better than it ever did. Not only that, but it is much, much, quieter. Since the blade is running true, there is near zero wobble to make noise, I keep my blades clean, check for flatness, and keep the saw adjusted square. ( the PALS kit helps a LOT for this.)
Похоже циркулярка самодельная. Если так, то как на счет обзора конструктива (лифт, наклон пилы...), можешь сделать? Или может фото на на сайте...?
Да, циркулярка самодельная. Есть незаконченная 3D модель станка, как только приведу ее в порядок, выложу чертеж на сайте. Спасибо
привет. делай обзор на циркулярку. Она у тебя классная. Интересно как пазы в столе сделал. Да и механика покрыта тайной. Маятниковый механизм?
Привет, друзья. Спасибо большое. Я не забыл про свое обещание. Несколько дней назад я разбирал станок чтобы перетащить его в более просторную мастерскую, заодно и видео снял, почти смонтировал. Чертеж тоже почти готов, выложу бесплатно, так что еще немного и каждый желающий сможет смастерить себе такой же. Жмите в колокол, чтобы не пропустить :) спасибо
What is that tool called you used to check the wobble
It's called a Dial Indicator :)
Is your saw home made?
Yes, Philip, it's first homemade tool in my woodshop, thanks
Cool, I'd love to see a video about it!
@@philipwittamore one day i will make a review video about my tablesaw if people want it, thanks
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