Well we pulled it off. The bottom center 2 up pipe bolts almost had me pullin the cab. A 3/8 flex ratchet, a 1inch extension, and a swivel socket, and a cheater bar on the ratchet handle, was my arrangement that made it happen. Nice video man. Thanks! New turbo sittin pretty no cab removal
THAT was impressive. As a fellow weekend warrior mechanic who won't let anyone touch my truck, it's cool to see someone else tackle this kind of work. I've seen a few other videos where the turbo is taken off with the cab bolted down, but yours is the most detailed I've seen. I found a bunch of metal in my fuel filter so I'm preparing myself, right after I put a new long block in my Pop's 6.4. The only thing I'll mention (if you haven't tried it) is that with a 15mm, a breaker bar and a floor jack, you can prop up the cab on 3 blocks of 2x4 in about an hour. We don't get a true picture of how long the turbo up pipes took to loosen up, but with the cab "tilted" there is tons of room back there. Great job!!
Thanks man, I appreciate the kind words! I had strongly considered jacking up the body a bit, in fact it was my plan originally. But it just feels ridiculous to be unbolting the body of a pickup truck to work on the engine, my very first car was a second gen Firebird and I could literally sit in the engine compartment and work on everything. Now you can't change the fuel pump in a pickup truck with the body in place?? So I decided to be the guinea pig and find out if it could actually be done. The only hard part with the up pipes was breaking the bolts loose, but once I figured that out removal and install was pretty smooth, although of course I was changing the pipes so I had no problem cutting the EGR pipe. If I had to save it, blocking the body up would have been the way to go
I would like to see what your talking about. My pop used to say there are 3 types of people out there. A vidiot an audiot and an idiot. What type are you? Well I'm very much a vidiot.😊
This video saved a 6.4L from getting torched in our shop... we were about ready to burn the whole place down around that dang truck! Up pipe tips were what save us!! Thanks so much... great video by the way!
I have water and metal shavings in my fuel system. So im goona try and tackle this job on my own, being broke. Great job man, snow on the ground in a tepe barn! Holy crap.
That was a heck of an undertaking, I’m just optimistic (dumb) enough to do that myself. Mine went years ago under warranty, hopefully it’ll hang in for a while. But thanks for showing me what I’m in for! I pulled the bed and did the bed rails in the middle of one of the worst winters I can remember, I put the bed on horses and closed in a sunshade with tarps, so my heart goes out to you watching you working the ice covered beaches whale ! Lol
THANK YOU FOR THE GREAT CAMERA SHOTS AND THE AMOUNT OF DETAIL YOU GAVE!!! I THINK A M GOING TO GIVE IT A SHOT. SHOP WANTS NEARLY $10K WHICH I DO NOT HAVE AND BEING DISABLED ALL I HAVE IS $1600/MONTH!!! ITS GOING TO BE FUN DOING THIS IN THE HOMELESS CAMP I LIVE IN. THANK YOU VERY VERY MUCH!!!
You will have to steal new tools every day just to finish the job 🤣🤣🤣😂😱👍just kidding my finances won't let me go near a shop the parts are near a mortgage for me 😢 But you do what you do to keep her shining and on the road. She's like my wife. She will pull her own weight. To help the cause.😊
I totally agree with that statement, very nice job. Being a experienced mechanic myself, I can appreciate the hard work that goes into a particular job pertaining to this particular 6.4 diesel engine. I own a 2008 F-450 King Ranch Dually 4X4 and when I done my deletes and up pipes, I raised my cab only 4 inches which allowed the extra room needed for a little less downtime. A customer just brought his 2010 F-450 bucket truck in for repairs. Diagnostics and troubleshooting has led to removal of the HPFP pump cover for inspection of the gasket wiring harness and sensors. Haven't lifted the cab and only 2 lower up pipe bolts to remove for the compound turbo removal. It hasn't been all that bad and after doing my own truck things get a little easier and learn a few tricks each time around. Thanks for the well illustrated pictures patience and video! Job well done!
You Sir the man. I had to do a turbo swap and didn't want to take the cab off. You showed that it was possible and gave some great info while doing it.
You're welcome, although I did have some words off camera! Honestly, the only difficult part was unbolting the up pipes, and that was only difficult because of how tight they were. They weren't that hard to get at. It's also possible mine were so tight because it sat outside for several years.
I end up with nearly all the powerstrokes at our shop. This will be my first time doing a turbo on a 6.4. My friend in Ohio says pull the cab. I’m near Las Vegas. Will report back with my results. I’m all about taking out as few bolts as possible.
After you 4th time pulling the up pipe from the turbo you do it without thinking. But the best way is a half moon that is a 10mm and a 12mm. The 3/8 ratchet will fit in the 12mm end if you need the leverage.
I think the cab pull was written to milk the dealer job hours to be honest. Love seeing you doing it with only regular tools (and some curse words, no doubt!)
As a mechanic who has done a few, it's not to milk anyone. Regular tools pull the cab, making the job much easier. The up pipe splits often and the turbo bolts seize. We have multiple lifts to use at our job as all shops do. It's a no brainer to pull the cab. Faster easier cheaper to pull the cab.
Not a pro mech, but when my 6.4 ate a cam lobe, as one does...., the rig wasn't worth 12k to dealer fix. I pulled the cab in my garge using a stout 2 5/8 pipe and dual floor shop cranes/cherry pickers. Once I did it, I know a pro mech would get the job done in 3-4 hours, I did in 6 first time and being very careful. The number of additional hours monkeying around trying to get on a bolt you otherwise would take 5 mins to remove/install is the $ savings. The extra hours you spend trying to 'make it work exceed the time to just pull it. That said, dumping all your fluids, is a PITA, and not having a true lift makes the whole ordeal a bit sketchy at times and you must have a second operator operating the cranes, so not a solo job. I am just now having to put the HPFP in, thus why I'm here and thinking, I'll just pull the cab again after watching this. Would have been nice to know the full amount of time this took.
Thank you thank you You are a patient man this is something I am not looking forward to. But I hope this video is still out there if I have to get on this. How many miles did you have on her when this came your way.
Just curious on how the truck is doing not replacing the rest of the system. I caught the early onset of injection pump failure, my truck runs excellent just caught metal in my filter. Haven’t been driving it. Curious how you went about getting the rest of the metal out or if you just filtered it out. I just dont want to replace “unnecessary parts” when it still runs stellar
Did your pump itself actually go bad or was it the harness? Just curious if it threw a bunch of metal shavings in the fuel system. Great video! I wouldn’t have thought it possible
It was definitely the pump, the harness was actually in good shape. There was metal in the system, I flushed it out as best I could but it was a gamble not replacing the rest of the fuel system. It's still running so far...
Good job man. I just bought 08 350 with a weird turbo or drivers side valve train knock. It runs rough and Smokey but starts right up. Thinking stuck injector and maybe turbo problem. 350,000 km totally deleted and studs.
Thanks bud. Running rough and smoking with knock on the drivers side sure sounds like the notorious cracked number 8 piston...I hope you're lucky and it is just an injector or rocker or something like that
You got it wrong…. You want to bleed the fuel pressure line side (the other bingo bolt in back) with the home made line in a bucket. Run the on off switch in cab until no bubbles then it’s a 10 minute procedure. ☠Better luck next time☠ not bad for do it yourselfer
I got the same fuel pressure test kit but I don’t understand at one point you had it set up one way then you switch to a different way I don’t understand the process
I have one of these it's got 140K with a DPF and EGR delete 25K miles ago tuner stays on stock or tow. Never raced it but she has passed a few when needed. She's not real quick off the line but when that boost hits the sweet spot she will impress. What do you think was the cause of the HPFP to fail. I would gess the EGR and lack of frequent oil and filter was the demise of the turbos along with a heavy foot and a few over loads. I could be wrong. I hope 🙂
Hey awesome video ended up having to do this to my 6.4l one thing what do the connections look like at the fuel pump we are talking about the one on the frame rail correct??
Need help getting air out of the system I don’t have no special banjo do I just connect a fuel pressure tested to the valve and I can skip the special banjo tool
I have been bleeding for atleast two days on and off and it been constant air bubbles I’m sorry 😞 for all these question about this bleeding procedures do you think I have a loose fuel supply line or a lose fuel rail
Did you prefill the fuel filter bowl? If so, you should have been able to bleed it in a couple hours, at this point I'd suspect that air is getting into the fuel system somewhere
Update for ya. I pulled the the entire fuel system on my truck and I ran brake cleaner through the lines, the rails, and the filter housings and every single one of them was full of metal particles, quite a bit too. So I understand why the shops suggest you replace the entire fuel system. I'm too cheap for that though, so brake cleaner will have to do.
Yeah there's no way to avoid there being leftover metal. I cleaned the lines going to the pump and flushed everything after the pump into the filter bowl with an old filter in, I can't remember if I mentioned that in the video. Mine wasn't too bad though. After I bled the system most of the way I replaced the filter
@@backwoodsbuildingandfixing9223 okay that passenger side up pipes it’s hard as hell I’m hoping I didn’t stripped it but If I did can I still get them out?
@@LoMufasaProductions Depends where on the up pipe we're talking, if you're at the manifolds I'm sure you can figure out a way to get them out. If you've rounded the bolts at the turbos then you might be hooped. At that point you're either lifting the cab or cutting the up pipes to get the turbos out. Those bolts on the back of the turbos definitely were the hardest part of the job.
That would depend on what else needed to be done. The only actual hard part of this was getting the bolts out of the back of the turbo that hold the up pipes to it, the job wasn't that bad otherwise. If I had to do other stuff, replacing body mounts or pulling the heads or such, then I would pull the cab off completely if I had the resources. Otherwise I feel like it wouldn't save many headaches and you'd be taking things apart that might be better left alone.
It depends what you can all get in kit form. Alliant has a full install kit that comes with the turbo oil seals and HPFP gasket, but I wasn't able to get one. Covid ruining everything. I got a Ford HPFP install kit and Ford turbo install kit, it had some gaskets I didn't need and it was more expensive. But individually, here's what I needed: HPFP, pump gasket/harness, cover seal, pump to rail fuel lines, turbo drain seals (one side is o-rings, the other is some weird cone type deal), turbo oil feed seals (o-ring at the line inlet and rubber washers at the line outlet), fuel line washers (these are more expensive than they should be, make sure you triple count how many you need, and the one on the main feed line to the filter housing is bigger than the rest IIRC), up pipe to turbo gaskets, up pipe to turbo bolts, and whatever I'm forgetting.
Just get some bolts and suck them back together. Take the bolts out before you torque them to pedestals and you're golden. Though at this point you might want to replace the big compression gasket between the turbos
@@backwoodsbuildingandfixing9223 ok and one more thing I’m having issues getting my down pipes on I don’t have the turbo mounting bolts on so the turbo altogether have some play what do you suggest getting the down pipes on
@@chazmanualsammy2884 I did the downpipe from the top. Being a 2 piece I put the top portion in from up top and the lower piece on from the bottom. I left the up pipes and downpipe loose and floating until I was able to get everything more or less where they needed to be
AFAIK there are no pressure sensors on the low pressure side of the fuel system, and that would be way too high anyway. The HFCM should max out around 10psi. Where does your scanner say it's taking that reading from?
A mechanical gauge reading, so long as the gauge is trustworthy, always trumps a digital reading. If you're actually reading 0psi (as low as 3psi is not abnormal on the low pressure side, if the gauge increments aren't small enough that would be hard to register) then you have a problem with air intrusion or a dead lift pump
@@chazmanualsammy2884 Pull the upper fuel filter out and run the lift pump while watching the fuel bowl. If you see anything other than liquid fuel being pumped in (even just a bit of foam) you have air intrusion. I'm inclined to doubt your lift pump though, that's the number one killer of HPFP's and you haven't mentioned if you've replaced it. Doesn't matter if the pump makes noise, it needs to make pressure.
@@backwoodsbuildingandfixing9223 ok thanks you …I did that a couple days I indeed had foam I guess I will be taking some stuff off and making sure it’s tight
Hard to say, I worked on this in between other stuff so it took a while. I'd guess if you hit it hard dawn to dusk a guy could get it done in a couple of days
From your experience with the 6.4 would you ever recommend that anyone buy one. If not what would diesel would you recommend someone buy. It can be any brand ford, chevy, dodge, etc.
I wouldn't recommend a 6.4. I don't have great experience with Fords in general but the 6.4 is definitely the top of the heartbreak heap. They're incredible when they're working right and they're cheap to buy, so the allure is strong, but they cost a fortune to keep going. If I was recommending a diesel it's anything Cummins, all day every day. If this 6.4 pops there's a good chance I'll swap a Cummins into it.
@@charlesparrish2674 I don't remember a part number or anything like that, by now that seller might not even be around anymore, but search 6.4 vgt actuator shaft on ebay and google and you should find something.
I bled everything through the low pressure return, which is why it took so long. It took at least an hour once I thought it was bled to get it actually bled, I'd turn it over then bleed then turn it over then bleed until no more air came out.
IIRC the up pipes came out fine but the EGR crossover pipe had to be cut, although you could get it out in one piece if you pulled the drivers side rocker cover
I already deleted mine as well so no need in pulling the cover I would just cut it as well!! I just order a new seal kit for my turbos. My oil feed tube is leaking I believe and was dreading pulling the cab. This video helped tons thanks so much!!!
I'm pretty sure I took them out through the bottom, though they should be able to go either way with the turbos out. Are you taking them out to replace them?
@@backwoodsbuildingandfixing9223 sorry nevermind that I got that figure if you could let me know is it easy to put the two turbo a back together once you spilt them
@@LoMufasaProductions It's not too hard, just take your time tightening the bolts evenly so you're not snugging them back together cockeye. And don't forget to remove the bolts after the turbos are reinstalled.
It has a bit under 107,000kms on it, so somewhere between 66-67,000 miles. It also had the low pressure pump go out around 80,000kms. 6.4's seem to make poor $$$ to miles driven conversions
Well we pulled it off.
The bottom center 2 up pipe bolts almost had me pullin the cab.
A 3/8 flex ratchet, a 1inch extension, and a swivel socket, and a cheater bar on the ratchet handle, was my arrangement that made it happen.
Nice video man. Thanks!
New turbo sittin pretty no cab removal
Great that swivel socket set has been use full over the years ❤
THAT was impressive. As a fellow weekend warrior mechanic who won't let anyone touch my truck, it's cool to see someone else tackle this kind of work. I've seen a few other videos where the turbo is taken off with the cab bolted down, but yours is the most detailed I've seen. I found a bunch of metal in my fuel filter so I'm preparing myself, right after I put a new long block in my Pop's 6.4. The only thing I'll mention (if you haven't tried it) is that with a 15mm, a breaker bar and a floor jack, you can prop up the cab on 3 blocks of 2x4 in about an hour. We don't get a true picture of how long the turbo up pipes took to loosen up, but with the cab "tilted" there is tons of room back there. Great job!!
Thanks man, I appreciate the kind words! I had strongly considered jacking up the body a bit, in fact it was my plan originally. But it just feels ridiculous to be unbolting the body of a pickup truck to work on the engine, my very first car was a second gen Firebird and I could literally sit in the engine compartment and work on everything. Now you can't change the fuel pump in a pickup truck with the body in place?? So I decided to be the guinea pig and find out if it could actually be done. The only hard part with the up pipes was breaking the bolts loose, but once I figured that out removal and install was pretty smooth, although of course I was changing the pipes so I had no problem cutting the EGR pipe. If I had to save it, blocking the body up would have been the way to go
I would like to see what your talking about. My pop used to say there are 3 types of people out there. A vidiot an audiot and an idiot. What type are you? Well I'm very much a vidiot.😊
Dude big props to you to have this problem and be as calm as you are to film and record edit and post this nice job!!
This video saved a 6.4L from getting torched in our shop... we were about ready to burn the whole place down around that dang truck! Up pipe tips were what save us!! Thanks so much... great video by the way!
That's awesome!!! The temptation to burn these things down can get pretty strong sometimes, I'm glad this video helped save one!
I keep telling my guy with the 6.4 that we are just going to light it on fire.
I have water and metal shavings in my fuel system. So im goona try and tackle this job on my own, being broke.
Great job man, snow on the ground in a tepe barn! Holy crap.
That was a heck of an undertaking, I’m just optimistic (dumb) enough to do that myself. Mine went years ago under warranty, hopefully it’ll hang in for a while. But thanks for showing me what I’m in for! I pulled the bed and did the bed rails in the middle of one of the worst winters I can remember, I put the bed on horses and closed in a sunshade with tarps, so my heart goes out to you watching you working the ice covered beaches whale ! Lol
THANK YOU FOR THE GREAT CAMERA SHOTS AND THE AMOUNT OF DETAIL YOU GAVE!!! I THINK A M GOING TO GIVE IT A SHOT. SHOP WANTS NEARLY $10K WHICH I DO NOT HAVE AND BEING DISABLED ALL I HAVE IS $1600/MONTH!!! ITS GOING TO BE FUN DOING THIS IN THE HOMELESS CAMP I LIVE IN. THANK YOU VERY VERY MUCH!!!
You will have to steal new tools every day just to finish the job 🤣🤣🤣😂😱👍just kidding my finances won't let me go near a shop the parts are near a mortgage for me 😢 But you do what you do to keep her shining and on the road. She's like my wife. She will pull her own weight. To help the cause.😊
You the man! Much appreciate you taking the time to do such a thorough job of documenting this PIA job.
You're welcome! And thanks for the kind words!
I totally agree with that statement, very nice job. Being a experienced mechanic myself, I can appreciate the hard work that goes into a particular job pertaining to this particular 6.4 diesel engine. I own a 2008 F-450 King Ranch Dually 4X4 and when I done my deletes and up pipes, I raised my cab only 4 inches which allowed the extra room needed for a little less downtime. A customer just brought his 2010 F-450 bucket truck in for repairs. Diagnostics and troubleshooting has led to removal of the HPFP pump cover for inspection of the gasket wiring harness and sensors.
Haven't lifted the cab and only 2 lower up pipe bolts to remove for the compound turbo removal. It hasn't been all that bad and after doing my own truck things get a little easier and learn a few tricks each time around.
Thanks for the well illustrated pictures patience and video!
Job well done!
You Sir the man. I had to do a turbo swap and didn't want to take the cab off. You showed that it was possible and gave some great info while doing it.
I'm really glad I could help! The whole pulling the cab thing has definitely been overblown
Don't use an air hammer or you will spin the cadge nuts. Breaker bar I hear is the answer on those cab bolts.
"Had it for a long time, hasn't been running for a long time" Normal 6.4 life 👍🤣Thanks for the video good info
Sure is. Thanks for watching!
The calmest voice ever. "I dont wanna deal with that."
Thank you for the video, you are calm when working at it.
I’ll probably be pissed off the entire time when changing out my turbo.
You're welcome, although I did have some words off camera! Honestly, the only difficult part was unbolting the up pipes, and that was only difficult because of how tight they were. They weren't that hard to get at. It's also possible mine were so tight because it sat outside for several years.
Did you put the EBP sensor tube in the block off plate in the Y on the passenger up pipe with a little fancy rebending of the EBP sensor tube?
I end up with nearly all the powerstrokes at our shop. This will be my first time doing a turbo on a 6.4.
My friend in Ohio says pull the cab.
I’m near Las Vegas.
Will report back with my results.
I’m all about taking out as few bolts as possible.
I think I will be removing the oil filter housing too 😂
After you 4th time pulling the up pipe from the turbo you do it without thinking. But the best way is a half moon that is a 10mm and a 12mm. The 3/8 ratchet will fit in the 12mm end if you need the leverage.
You are a beast. I use an engine hoist to pull these turbos in and out.
If you take the filter housing out and separate the turbos it’s a lot easier.
hell of a job feller
Eleventygazillion psi, dude that had me rolling. I'm just starting my HPFP so getting my game plan going. Thanks for the video.
I think the cab pull was written to milk the dealer job hours to be honest. Love seeing you doing it with only regular tools (and some curse words, no doubt!)
As a mechanic who has done a few, it's not to milk anyone. Regular tools pull the cab, making the job much easier. The up pipe splits often and the turbo bolts seize. We have multiple lifts to use at our job as all shops do. It's a no brainer to pull the cab. Faster easier cheaper to pull the cab.
Not a pro mech, but when my 6.4 ate a cam lobe, as one does...., the rig wasn't worth 12k to dealer fix. I pulled the cab in my garge using a stout 2 5/8 pipe and dual floor shop cranes/cherry pickers.
Once I did it, I know a pro mech would get the job done in 3-4 hours, I did in 6 first time and being very careful. The number of additional hours monkeying around trying to get on a bolt you otherwise would take 5 mins to remove/install is the $ savings.
The extra hours you spend trying to 'make it work exceed the time to just pull it.
That said, dumping all your fluids, is a PITA, and not having a true lift makes the whole ordeal a bit sketchy at times and you must have a second operator operating the cranes, so not a solo job.
I am just now having to put the HPFP in, thus why I'm here and thinking, I'll just pull the cab again after watching this.
Would have been nice to know the full amount of time this took.
This video definitely help me, thank you for sharing this experience.
Thank you thank you
You are a patient man this is something I am not looking forward to. But I hope this video is still out there if I have to get on this. How many miles did you have on her when this came your way.
Kudos to you! I may be having to tackle this job soon so many thank you's
Omg the beginning of the video is the best 😆 🤣
Thank you for this video is going to help me a lot when I change my fuel pump
Good job thanks for letting us know that everything is possible one way or another
Thank You for doing this !!! Really appreciate this video.
You're welcome! And thanks for watching, the more views it gets the more the algorithm likes it, and that gets it out to more folks who need to see it
Great practical advice and info. Thanks a lot and God bless.
You're very welcome!
Extremely intuitive ,thanks
Just curious on how the truck is doing not replacing the rest of the system. I caught the early onset of injection pump failure, my truck runs excellent just caught metal in my filter. Haven’t been driving it. Curious how you went about getting the rest of the metal out or if you just filtered it out. I just dont want to replace “unnecessary parts” when it still runs stellar
great job 👍🏻. nice and to the point.
Fantastic vid
Superstar!
Thank you for your time for video to like me really it's help to me alot
Did your pump itself actually go bad or was it the harness? Just curious if it threw a bunch of metal shavings in the fuel system. Great video! I wouldn’t have thought it possible
It was definitely the pump, the harness was actually in good shape. There was metal in the system, I flushed it out as best I could but it was a gamble not replacing the rest of the fuel system. It's still running so far...
Thanks bro ....great job
Good job man. I just bought 08 350 with a weird turbo or drivers side valve train knock. It runs rough and Smokey but starts right up. Thinking stuck injector and maybe turbo problem. 350,000 km totally deleted and studs.
Thanks bud. Running rough and smoking with knock on the drivers side sure sounds like the notorious cracked number 8 piston...I hope you're lucky and it is just an injector or rocker or something like that
Excellent video and commentary.
Thanks!
You got it wrong…. You want to bleed the fuel pressure line side (the other bingo bolt in back) with the home made line in a bucket. Run the on off switch in cab until no bubbles then it’s a 10 minute procedure. ☠Better luck next time☠ not bad for do it yourselfer
I got the same fuel pressure test kit but I don’t understand at one point you had it set up one way then you switch to a different way I don’t understand the process
I have one of these it's got 140K with a DPF and EGR delete 25K miles ago tuner stays on stock or tow. Never raced it but she has passed a few when needed. She's not real quick off the line but when that boost hits the sweet spot she will impress. What do you think was the cause of the HPFP to fail. I would gess the EGR and lack of frequent oil and filter was the demise of the turbos along with a heavy foot and a few over loads. I could be wrong. I hope 🙂
Man come help me do mine...I’ll fly you to Mississippi today!!!
Haha and deprive you of this glorious job? Never!
This has definitely help out tons!!!!
I'm glad it helped!
Hey awesome video ended up having to do this to my 6.4l one thing what do the connections look like at the fuel pump we are talking about the one on the frame rail correct??
Any problems since you got it done with injectors? Being you did replace all the fuel lines ?
Great video thank you for sharing
Happy to help
Need help getting air out of the system I don’t have no special banjo do I just connect a fuel pressure tested to the valve and I can skip the special banjo tool
I went into bleeding pretty in depth in the video. I don't have any special tools, I just used the pressure gauge
Great video. I have to replace the whole fuel system. Can I still do it… rails new lines etc without raising?
I have been bleeding for atleast two days on and off and it been constant air bubbles I’m sorry 😞 for all these question about this bleeding procedures do you think I have a loose fuel supply line or a lose fuel rail
Did you prefill the fuel filter bowl? If so, you should have been able to bleed it in a couple hours, at this point I'd suspect that air is getting into the fuel system somewhere
Update for ya. I pulled the the entire fuel system on my truck and I ran brake cleaner through the lines, the rails, and the filter housings and every single one of them was full of metal particles, quite a bit too. So I understand why the shops suggest you replace the entire fuel system. I'm too cheap for that though, so brake cleaner will have to do.
Yeah there's no way to avoid there being leftover metal. I cleaned the lines going to the pump and flushed everything after the pump into the filter bowl with an old filter in, I can't remember if I mentioned that in the video. Mine wasn't too bad though. After I bled the system most of the way I replaced the filter
Well unfortunately, I broke that connect under the intake manifold so I have to dig a bit deeper sooooo might as well get it
Any tips on them up pipes I have 3/8 flex ratchet and regular ratchet deep socket regular socket 10mm and extension
IIRC I used just a 3/8 straight ratchet with a deep socket
@@backwoodsbuildingandfixing9223 okay that passenger side up pipes it’s hard as hell I’m hoping I didn’t stripped it but If I did can I still get them out?
@@LoMufasaProductions Depends where on the up pipe we're talking, if you're at the manifolds I'm sure you can figure out a way to get them out. If you've rounded the bolts at the turbos then you might be hooped. At that point you're either lifting the cab or cutting the up pipes to get the turbos out. Those bolts on the back of the turbos definitely were the hardest part of the job.
If you had the rescourses to lift the body do you think youd still do it this way or would it ultimately be easier to lift the cab?
That would depend on what else needed to be done. The only actual hard part of this was getting the bolts out of the back of the turbo that hold the up pipes to it, the job wasn't that bad otherwise. If I had to do other stuff, replacing body mounts or pulling the heads or such, then I would pull the cab off completely if I had the resources. Otherwise I feel like it wouldn't save many headaches and you'd be taking things apart that might be better left alone.
I have to do mine in a few days do you have list of the parts needed like turbo reinstall, gaskets, and etc.
It depends what you can all get in kit form. Alliant has a full install kit that comes with the turbo oil seals and HPFP gasket, but I wasn't able to get one. Covid ruining everything. I got a Ford HPFP install kit and Ford turbo install kit, it had some gaskets I didn't need and it was more expensive. But individually, here's what I needed: HPFP, pump gasket/harness, cover seal, pump to rail fuel lines, turbo drain seals (one side is o-rings, the other is some weird cone type deal), turbo oil feed seals (o-ring at the line inlet and rubber washers at the line outlet), fuel line washers (these are more expensive than they should be, make sure you triple count how many you need, and the one on the main feed line to the filter housing is bigger than the rest IIRC), up pipe to turbo gaskets, up pipe to turbo bolts, and whatever I'm forgetting.
Hey I didn’t keep no screws in the turbo when removing so they slightly off how do I put them back together
Just get some bolts and suck them back together. Take the bolts out before you torque them to pedestals and you're golden. Though at this point you might want to replace the big compression gasket between the turbos
@@backwoodsbuildingandfixing9223 ok and one more thing I’m having issues getting my down pipes on I don’t have the turbo mounting bolts on so the turbo altogether have some play what do you suggest getting the down pipes on
I unbolted the down pipes from the bottom of the truck also I don’t know if it better to get the top of the down pipes on or the bottom
@@chazmanualsammy2884 I did the downpipe from the top. Being a 2 piece I put the top portion in from up top and the lower piece on from the bottom. I left the up pipes and downpipe loose and floating until I was able to get everything more or less where they needed to be
I have an 08 that still has low miles and it's scary what can go wrong on these trucks
It sure is, I like the truck but every morning I fire it up feels like pulling the pin on a grenade
I have the same deal. Low mile 2008 But mine needs HPFP and up pipes. You better get ready, get a FASS NOW! Great video.
I get 0psi on my gauge and I got the same gauge you got and on my scanner I get 20psi
AFAIK there are no pressure sensors on the low pressure side of the fuel system, and that would be way too high anyway. The HFCM should max out around 10psi. Where does your scanner say it's taking that reading from?
A mechanical gauge reading, so long as the gauge is trustworthy, always trumps a digital reading. If you're actually reading 0psi (as low as 3psi is not abnormal on the low pressure side, if the gauge increments aren't small enough that would be hard to register) then you have a problem with air intrusion or a dead lift pump
I think the one on the scanner is the high pressure but where should I start for air intrusion I check filter for metal shaving it’s clean there
@@chazmanualsammy2884 Pull the upper fuel filter out and run the lift pump while watching the fuel bowl. If you see anything other than liquid fuel being pumped in (even just a bit of foam) you have air intrusion. I'm inclined to doubt your lift pump though, that's the number one killer of HPFP's and you haven't mentioned if you've replaced it. Doesn't matter if the pump makes noise, it needs to make pressure.
@@backwoodsbuildingandfixing9223 ok thanks you …I did that a couple days I indeed had foam
I guess I will be taking some stuff off and making sure it’s tight
All in all, how much time did it take to do? Good explanations.
Hard to say, I worked on this in between other stuff so it took a while. I'd guess if you hit it hard dawn to dusk a guy could get it done in a couple of days
From your experience with the 6.4 would you ever recommend that anyone buy one. If not what would diesel would you recommend someone buy. It can be any brand ford, chevy, dodge, etc.
I wouldn't recommend a 6.4. I don't have great experience with Fords in general but the 6.4 is definitely the top of the heartbreak heap. They're incredible when they're working right and they're cheap to buy, so the allure is strong, but they cost a fortune to keep going. If I was recommending a diesel it's anything Cummins, all day every day. If this 6.4 pops there's a good chance I'll swap a Cummins into it.
6.4 needs to be deleted completed and tuned , and maintained rigorously..person have nothing but fords , and i love the fucking 6.4L .
How did you repair your turbo actuator shaft that you broke? I have the same issue and trying to see what are my options.
I bought a new shaft on Ebay, I think it was around $100. I made a video on it
@@backwoodsbuildingandfixing9223 Thank you for the response. I will check the video. Did you mention what the part name or number is for Ebay?
@@charlesparrish2674 I don't remember a part number or anything like that, by now that seller might not even be around anymore, but search 6.4 vgt actuator shaft on ebay and google and you should find something.
@@backwoodsbuildingandfixing9223 Thanks for the help!
@@charlesparrish2674 You're welcome!
How do you bleed the high pressure side
I bled everything through the low pressure return, which is why it took so long. It took at least an hour once I thought it was bled to get it actually bled, I'd turn it over then bleed then turn it over then bleed until no more air came out.
Need help with the bleeding procedures
Where did you get your up pipes to the turbos?
Online, I buy from a few Canadian parts outlets, I don't remember which one in particular though
What is the tool called that you used for the fuel lines at 4:19
They're just called fuel line disconnects, there are various styles
How did you get the up pipes out? Do th just come right out?
IIRC the up pipes came out fine but the EGR crossover pipe had to be cut, although you could get it out in one piece if you pulled the drivers side rocker cover
I already deleted mine as well so no need in pulling the cover I would just cut it as well!! I just order a new seal kit for my turbos. My oil feed tube is leaking I believe and was dreading pulling the cab. This video helped tons thanks so much!!!
Can I ask if you went down with them or out threw the top?
I'm pretty sure I took them out through the bottom, though they should be able to go either way with the turbos out. Are you taking them out to replace them?
Yes I am. If I am going to have it apart I would think I am better off just replacing them!!
Where exactly does the seal goes?
Which seal do you mean?
@@backwoodsbuildingandfixing9223 sorry nevermind that I got that figure if you could let me know is it easy to put the two turbo a back together once you spilt them
@@LoMufasaProductions It's not too hard, just take your time tightening the bolts evenly so you're not snugging them back together cockeye. And don't forget to remove the bolts after the turbos are reinstalled.
@@backwoodsbuildingandfixing9223 ok thanks so much !
That engine is throw away engine . Not Worth time and money. Once warranty is up I've seen people get rid of them.
How many miles on it?
It has a bit under 107,000kms on it, so somewhere between 66-67,000 miles. It also had the low pressure pump go out around 80,000kms. 6.4's seem to make poor $$$ to miles driven conversions
Ha