For anyone reading this: I know that dog training can be difficult sometimes, but you're doing great. Keep up the good work, and your dog (and your own sanity) will thank you for it! ❤️💕
When I went to TRS I roomed in the A-frame. There was a shelf on the wall I used to put my Border Collie on while I did my homework. I did goofy stuff like that a lot. By 4months old he was unshakable☺️ I just rescued a Mali who spent the first 14months of her life in a crate. Everything spooks her, from a pen or lighter to humans. Her reaction to everything is hackles, growls & barks. People are so terrified of her they stiffen up, act weird & refuse to help. Thing is she's a really cool puppy, very affectionate & learns quickly. I'm just taking it one day at a time & introducing her to everything like she is a 6week old pup 🐾🐾
I wish I had watched your video before paying Australian $450 for a 2hr consultation with a trainer dealing with fear and agression for my people reactive White Swiss Shepherd. The advice was to desensitize him. The vet had told me my WSS has genetic fear agression and that I could never trust him around people, especially now that he is reaching adolescence. The vet told me to hold my dog's head while being examined (he is cryptorchid) and not reward bad behaviour when he was fearful and growled at the vet, so it turned into a complex situation with my dog becoming more fearful. I have been training, trialing and instructing on and off for 50 years and your videos keep me up to date with training techniques. I wasn't going to give up on my boy after the vets comments, and now drive long distances to attend dog training clubs so my dog is around people who are interested in dog behaviour and are willing to help with his desensitisation. He is becoming more relaxed and, down the track, I may be able to trial him, depending on stand for examination. Thank you Nate for all your valuable knowledge. I have tried to reach out to you before, but didn't get replies.
Thanks for sharing your story and I’m happy the videos are helpful. Sorry for being difficult to contact. I’m trying to get better at responding to comments and making videos based on request. Cheers!
Im actually dealing with the same people fear, specifically men, and my 6 month old is doing the exact thing you mentioned at the beginning. The situation you set up by having different people come over with back turned, offering food, im definitely going to give that a shot. We've been offering food face to face with a stranger and he does take it. He does try! We can walk through home depot, home goods, petsmart, and scheels sporting goods and he does great. Its just guys that hes struggling with. Not all of them, but i do try to engage with strangers all the time. Male or female to keep building a positive association. But thank you so much for sharing your experience! Subbed :)
Thank you for this! My 10 months puppy is now going through a fear period and it is really frustrating. just 2 months ago she was the perfect dog, would walk at my side, no pulling, always looking at me for guidance. And then, out of nowhere, everything got scarry for her. Cars, some pedestrians, skaters, bikes...loud noises. I can't go for walks anymore cause she just dont want to leave home for more than a few minutes, as soon as she got scared she tries to go back home. I'm trying to countercondition and desensitize her but with no noticiable success for now.
It's the exact same way with my 5½ month old Belgian Malinois right now. The garbage truck goes past our house while we're in my room and he's scrambling for the nearest corner. Biggest mistake I've been making is getting frustrated around him (Because I'd never be frustrated AT him that's not fair), and not being consistent. Because of his videos before I got my pup my Mal actually doesn't have a food bowl. It's always been food time is training time, or puzzle time, or a bribe because I have to leave the house for awhile, he has to go in his crate. (But it still makes him enjoy the crate because of the food). Hope your pup is doing better now, if they are, leave some tips for others who come across this comment, share what worked for you. ❤
A few weeks ago I had asked about my puppy’s confidence and you recommended I watch this to help with him being so scared. It has helped him a lot , and he can now confidently walk through the park, which he was never able to do. He still seems to have a lot of issues with strangers though, and I was wondering if there was something I should be doing in addition to his confidence building.
i love how you will sometimes share a story with your own personal experience with one of your dogs or a client's dog you worked with which gives the sinario you are teaching, an actual incident you were then able to work through and how you did it. for me it makes it even more relatable and easier for me to understand and learn from.
Being submissive and fearful are two different things. Submission comes from the word "submit" this means that when a dog sees you (the owner) as an authority figure or a leader, then he submits himself to you. By doing so, he's not going to be in a fight, flight, or avoidance state of mind, and because of that, he wants to follow you wherever you go. On the other hand, when a dog is scared of you or from a particular situation, then he goes into a fearful state of mind. Out of fear, he may follow you, but that's not because he wants to, but because he wants to be with whats familier
Noun: submission. the action or fact of accepting or yielding to a superior force or to the will or authority of another person. Verb: submit. accept or yield to a superior force or to the authority or will of another person.
Ok, I think Nate is generalizing vs trying to split hairs. In other words, there are too many trainers and owners out there who say "you need to make your dog submissive to you" who are anywhere from simply misled to angry ppl who dig on getting the green light to "dominate" something. It sounds like your version of "submission" is very close to what Nate does: Creating a partnership with a dog where however, the human's the benevolent guide and thus the dog is comfortable with and interested in following.
What I find really helpful for confidence is to train a dog in a busy city, full of noises, trucks and people. Now my Australian shepherd doesn’t react to any loud tools, bulldozer, cranes, fire alarm, motorcycles, big stores, etc. And she loves people, especially babies.
Terrific tip about the vacuum cleaner! I'm already thinking of how to help my future dog (expected to be born any day now! :) ) get used to it. The video was super helpful, as always - this is exactly how I'm gonna do it. Thank you!
I am pretty sure that like the context of “negative reinforcement/punishment” is widely misunderstood. Often it’s referencing leash walking and trying to get them to understand that they don’t need to take charge. Alleviating responsibility makes life easier. That is contrary to when many might think they have to force them to roll on their back and submit instead of submit and follow instruction.
Thank you. I have been unknowingly reinforcing anxiety when I take him to high traffic areas. I mistakenly thought exposure was enough to allow his fear to diminish. I will be mindful of HoW I reward his behaviors now!!
Hands down one of the greatest trainers putting the greatest info out there; thank you for this brother. If I buy one of those shirts will it make my arms look like yours?
thanks Nate, this was amazing. I have a fearful dog of new people (strangers) but once he has met them 3 or 4 times, he seems to be good, then other issues like jumping come into play :)
My dog is afraid of large groups of people. I am a professor - I brought him to class. At the end, students came up to me and he showed fear and lunged (didn't bite) one student. He is a GSD and just turning 6 months old. He wasn't like this a couple of months ago. Someone suggested taking him to places with lots of people and sit away from the crowd and just people watch with my dog. What do you think of this or what would be a better way to handle this?
He could be going through a fear period, which is usually around 7-9 months of age. The recommendation to "Take him to places with lots of people and sit away from the crowd and just people watch with my dog." is a good strategy, but it's missing some key details. Check out the info below. I think it'll be helpful. For fear based behaviors, I almost always lean towards using a combination of counterconditioning and desensitization. Here's a section on it from one of my articles: Counterconditioning +R Counterconditioning is a behavioral modification technique in which an undesired response to a stimulus is replaced by a new, more desirable response. This change is brought about by associating the stimulus with positive or pleasant experiences. Counterconditioning is a valuable technique I often recommend, especially for dogs grappling with fear, usually alongside desensitization. It's pivotal to elevate a dog's confidence when addressing fear-based issues, as these can’t be rectified with positive punishment; such approaches only escalate the problem. Counterconditioning is a reliable and tested strategy that I incorporate for many of the fearful dogs I train. For instance, consider a dog fearful of other dogs. A common method I employ involves visiting a local dog park-yet remaining outside of it. The goal is to be close enough for the dog to observe its fellow canines but at a sufficient distance to avoid any adverse reactions. The initial step is allowing the dog to watch the others; if the dog engages with me, we indulge in enjoyable obedience training or tug play, establishing strong, positive associations. Subsequently, we approach the park gradually, diminishing the distance daily until we can be adjacent to the park without any negative reactions from the dog in training. Often, anticipation and excitement replace fear as the dog learns to associate the park with fun and learning. This method is a clear demonstration of how altering a dog’s predictions can assist in conquering their fears. Desensitization (paired with +R) Desensitization is a process in which a dog is gradually exposed to a stimulus that causes an undesired response. The exposure begins at a level that doesn't elicit a negative reaction, usually through modifications like reducing volume, distance, or size of the stimulus, and over time, the intensity or proximity is slowly increased. While volume, distance, and size are common dimensions for modifying stimulus intensity, other variations exist depending on the specific nature of the stimulus and the individual dog’s reaction to it. The goal is to reduce or eliminate the dog's adverse reaction to the stimulus, allowing the dog to gradually acclimate to previously distressing stimuli in a controlled and manageable way. Building on the previous example from the counterconditioning section, this process would involve allowing the dog to observe other dogs from a distance, gradually reducing this distance as the dog becomes more comfortable. This technique is instrumental in restructuring a dog’s fear responses and is incredibly impactful when executed correctly. It allows the transformation of the behavioral and neurological landscape of a dog dealing with fear issues. This slow and steady approach is pivotal in allowing the dog to replace fear and anxiety with confidence and calmness. Another example involves a dog that is fearful of loud noises, such as thunderstorms or fireworks. In this scenario, desensitization would involve playing the sounds of thunder or fireworks at a very low volume-low enough that the dog doesn’t show signs of fear or anxiety. As the dog becomes accustomed to the noise level, the volume is gradually increased, allowing the dog to become more comfortable with louder noises over time. Concurrently, positive reinforcement, like treats or affection, is administered to encourage relaxed behavior at each step of increased volume. The aim of desensitization in this instance is to enable the dog to comprehend that these noises are not threatening, allowing it to experience loud noises without fear or stress. This is particularly beneficial during instances when the loud noises are unavoidable, such as during a thunderstorm or festive celebrations with fireworks, thus making the experience less stressful for both the dog and the owner. However, a neat little trick that I have used with success is acclimating dogs to brown noise, starting low and gradually increasing the volume over time. Then, during fireworks or thunderstorms, I play the brown noise, effectively reducing the intensity of the external noise, making the process even smoother for the dog in training. In conclusion, both counterconditioning and desensitization are powerful, humane methods of modifying behavior, often used in conjunction, to aid dogs in overcoming their fears and anxieties by replacing negative associations and responses with positive ones. Additionally, it’s vital to note that while these examples are illustrative, the application of these techniques may vary based on individual circumstances and the specific fears and anxieties exhibited by each dog. Here's the article for reference: www.nateschoemer.com/post/how-to-choose-the-perfect-dog-training-method-for-your-pup I hope this helps and thanks again for supporting the channel!
As always Nate you make it look and sound so easy but in reality it require tons of patience Lol.. I've been training my Boxer with your methods and its very effective thanks for sharing your knowledge. if you don't mind I have a tutorial video request, I searched youtube about how to train a Dog to grin or smile or show teeth like a warning but I couldn't find any, I was wondering if you could share us your method about this one. I want to teach my dog to greet people that way while waving hi Lol
Lol! The main thing is providing a physical cue that can get your dog to do the desired behavior. Once you accomplish that, then you can put it on a command, such as "Say Hi!". Follow this process for teaching the verbal command: ua-cam.com/video/Z-x05KZZ_mY/v-deo.html
FIRST REPONSE: "Oh wow this is a Malinois guy!" Funny because I immediately respect you as a trainer, but I still also feel like this breed shouldn't be owned by the general public. They are so damn smart. I'm a Collie person.
Nate we just brought our new puppy home. She’s an 8 week old chocolate lab. She was the only female in the litter and comes from solid lines. She was very adventurous and exploring in the bushes and what not at the breeders home but as we’ve brought her home she’s become very shy and very timid. What’s the best way to work through this period with her and build a strong bond with her so we can start training her? She’s been exposed to different sounds and such in her first 7 weeks so noise doesn’t bother her she’s just not comfortable with the environment or us yet. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Most puppies take anywhere from a week to three weeks to get comfortable in their new environment. Just do your best to continue bonding with the puppy and giving food from your hand. You should see her true personality coming out within a few weeks. Cheers!
@nate since this is lesson 7, I will recommend to make playlist of this series and others and put link in the description of every video of that series.
Nate, my new house has an electric door lock. My dog, 7 yrs, has never experienced this. I have been trying to associate it positively. I have been trying to use it as a marker where i activate it then spread a bunch of rewards on the floor away from it. She has gotten better during our sessions but she consistently runs and bites the doorknob. I want to know how i can turn it into a positive thing and how i can impliment it into our training. We dont primarily use the front door so its something that she doesnt experience all the time, which is why i feel she hates the lock.
Thanks for this valuable important, I am going to try theses things on Bronte tomorrow, I am sure they will work!! Going to watch this again & take notes!
Great Video. I do have question though. My dog is a 5 month old German Shephard he is very confident and brave but when it comes to getting him in the car or entering different doors in different spots. He kind of cowers a bit. And sometimes he will just i guess the term is submissive urination all over. Any tips on that. He has no problem going threw the door and doors where we live at. It just seems to be other places he not familiar with. I know he still a bit young but idk if hell grow out of that. Or if i can do somethin to help with that now.
Yes. I would apply the counterconditioning and desensitization as explained in the video. Once he begins to realize it's not a big deal, his confidence will start to go up. I would also make sure he knows leash pressure. Lastly, I would walk through the doorway and use the leash pressure to make sure he follows. I also wouldn't make a big deal about it, since dogs often mimic us.
How would this work with my adult dog who is scared to be in public places? She won't take food (even high value) and is shaking and panting rather hard.
Lol! That can happen. Not all dogs like training, but we can always do our best try and make it as fun as possible. Keep the sessions short and try to incorporate play. Cheers! :)
!! If it's possible to help a dog with vacuum noises and gunshots, surely it would be possible to desensitize them to the sound of knocking on doors/glass? I was trying to help a pooch overcome his fear of strangers approaching the door, maybe I've been targetting the wrong thing
Ever since I saw your video about tug and falling down, etc, our puppy's confidence has grown a lot. We recently had an experience where she was greeting one of her best doggo friends after a month or so of being apart. She was very excited/chasing but putting her paws on the dog, growling and being too rough, which we have never seen before. Is it a good idea to correct her in this instance, or at least taking her by the collar and waiting for her to settle? We don't want to undo any of the confidence she has built, but we also don't want her to become a bully or think it's okay to greet dogs like that.
Lol! Yes, that can happen. I just use leash pressure in this situation, the same way I would stop a dog from jumping on furniture. I would say "wrong" or whatever word you choose, then I would use leash pressure to stop the behavior. Check out this video to see what I mean: ua-cam.com/video/PL482q8E0W4/v-deo.html
May I ask when you say “I only fed my dog outside and desensitize” do you mean consuming the whole food portion while training, or do you mean feed as if hand feed or bowl feed.
We have a golden retriever and we’re working with a trainer who told me our dog is dominant by submission…is this really a thing and can a dog actually be dominant by submission?
If I fall on the ground and let my almost 4 month year old husky Sheppard win the tug of war then she starts jumping all over me and biting me everywhere. Puncturing kind of bites too. She knows basic commands but when she doesn’t stop or listen I end up having to grab her by the collar and put her in her time out crate
Thank you. I enjoy watching your videos. My dog is terrified of bugs bees and spiders so all summer he is soooo upset and I can't figure out how to make him less fearful. He is getting better with his confidence as he does have other issues but we are figuring these out.
I’m 47, and work as a healthcare professional; however, it’s not my passion. My passion and dream is to be an excellent dog trainer/behaviorist and offer help pro Bono to the shelter dogs in my town to help increase dogs’ chances of getting adopted. How can I become a trainer? I think watching your videos is huge as you have so much great content (and a lot of it) and applying it with the shelter dogs as a volunteer is a start (?) Hate seeing dogs labeled non-adoptable 😰
Thanks! I would start with this video: ua-cam.com/video/XQRgci18tvY/v-deo.html Then I would practice with as many dogs as possible. The most important thing from my experience being an instructor at the Tom Rose School for professional dog trainers, is not the school as much as it is the work put in by the trainer. It takes experience and many many hours of practice. Of course, the schooling helps as well. You can also check out Leerburg online university. They have some really solid courses. I like the Michael Ellis and the Forrest Micke courses. I hope this helps! Cheers!
Wow I'm currently going through this right now with my White GS 😪 I love your videos Nate and they make sense completely 💪 I wish you were in NY to Help me out 🙏 GodBless You
Hi Nate how can we train a dog to fetch and retrieve if she is very low motivated to toys and to open her mouth to touch an object ???? My dog only arrive to touch an object with her noise but she doesn’t really want to open her mouth to go to the next step Same things if I play fetch with her she doesn’t care at all How can we improve this 2 aspects ???? Thanks a lot Andrea from italy 🇮🇹 😁
Thanks! I would probably have to make a video on it, but you would want to do drive building. You can see an example of it on this video: ua-cam.com/video/HeVWMcwbf1w/v-deo.html
My schnauzer was very treat motivated but could care less about fetch - I started with very short tosses and traded her food for the frisbee. Also the flirt pole really helped
Wonderful content as always Nate! I'm studying to be a dog trainer and using all relationship and engagement concepts so I certainly love your last line there :) I've been unsure about something for a while and just wondering if I could get your input?? I'm working with a friend's dog that has dog-dog reactivity and I'm doing a number of different techniques from a great distance from other dogs. I just thought of a possible exercise but I can't figure if it would be a good idea or a bad idea: Thought is to have her be in parked car with me with the windows rolled up and treat her as she sees other dogs from a little less far. I'm thinking this would make her feel safe from them since she's in the car? Or would it maybe make her feel MORE threatened because she's in the car?! And if it IS a good idea, should I treat her when she's looking at the dogs but not barking (for classical conditioning), or only when she glances back at me (operant)? Thx in advance for any input!! You're the best!!
Nice! Thank you! My one year old Labradoodle shepherd mix has been acting fearful when new people come to our home. I want to work with her to prevent this behavior.
Hi Nate, we just adopted a rescue dog. He hasn't had much experience with the lobby and the elevator. The elevator door almost closed once when he was trying to come in and out. Now he doesn't want to go outside of our apartment and we really need him to get to go potty as opposed to our balcony. He is super anxious and scared. How can we make him at least step outside of the apartment?
For anyone reading this: I know that dog training can be difficult sometimes, but you're doing great. Keep up the good work, and your dog (and your own sanity) will thank you for it! ❤️💕
When I went to TRS I roomed in the A-frame. There was a shelf on the wall I used to put my Border Collie on while I did my homework. I did goofy stuff like that a lot. By 4months old he was unshakable☺️ I just rescued a Mali who spent the first 14months of her life in a crate. Everything spooks her, from a pen or lighter to humans. Her reaction to everything is hackles, growls & barks. People are so terrified of her they stiffen up, act weird & refuse to help. Thing is she's a really cool puppy, very affectionate & learns quickly. I'm just taking it one day at a time & introducing her to everything like she is a 6week old pup 🐾🐾
Thanks
It's working and helpful for me❤❤
Awesome! :)
I wish I had watched your video before paying Australian $450 for a 2hr consultation with a trainer dealing with fear and agression for my people reactive White Swiss Shepherd. The advice was to desensitize him.
The vet had told me my WSS has genetic fear agression and that I could never trust him around people, especially now that he is reaching adolescence.
The vet told me to hold my dog's head while being examined (he is cryptorchid) and not reward bad behaviour when he was fearful and growled at the vet, so it turned into a complex situation with my dog becoming more fearful.
I have been training, trialing and instructing on and off for 50 years and your videos keep me up to date with training techniques.
I wasn't going to give up on my boy after the vets comments, and now drive long distances to attend dog training clubs so my dog is around people who are interested in dog behaviour and are willing to help with his desensitisation. He is becoming more relaxed and, down the track, I may be able to trial him, depending on stand for examination.
Thank you Nate for all your valuable knowledge. I have tried to reach out to you before, but didn't get replies.
Thanks for sharing your story and I’m happy the videos are helpful. Sorry for being difficult to contact. I’m trying to get better at responding to comments and making videos based on request. Cheers!
Im actually dealing with the same people fear, specifically men, and my 6 month old is doing the exact thing you mentioned at the beginning. The situation you set up by having different people come over with back turned, offering food, im definitely going to give that a shot. We've been offering food face to face with a stranger and he does take it. He does try! We can walk through home depot, home goods, petsmart, and scheels sporting goods and he does great. Its just guys that hes struggling with. Not all of them, but i do try to engage with strangers all the time. Male or female to keep building a positive association. But thank you so much for sharing your experience! Subbed :)
Thank you for this! My 10 months puppy is now going through a fear period and it is really frustrating. just 2 months ago she was the perfect dog, would walk at my side, no pulling, always looking at me for guidance. And then, out of nowhere, everything got scarry for her. Cars, some pedestrians, skaters, bikes...loud noises. I can't go for walks anymore cause she just dont want to leave home for more than a few minutes, as soon as she got scared she tries to go back home. I'm trying to countercondition and desensitize her but with no noticiable success for now.
It's the exact same way with my 5½ month old Belgian Malinois right now. The garbage truck goes past our house while we're in my room and he's scrambling for the nearest corner. Biggest mistake I've been making is getting frustrated around him (Because I'd never be frustrated AT him that's not fair), and not being consistent.
Because of his videos before I got my pup my Mal actually doesn't have a food bowl. It's always been food time is training time, or puzzle time, or a bribe because I have to leave the house for awhile, he has to go in his crate. (But it still makes him enjoy the crate because of the food).
Hope your pup is doing better now, if they are, leave some tips for others who come across this comment, share what worked for you. ❤
A few weeks ago I had asked about my puppy’s confidence and you recommended I watch this to help with him being so scared. It has helped him a lot , and he can now confidently walk through the park, which he was never able to do. He still seems to have a lot of issues with strangers though, and I was wondering if there was something I should be doing in addition to his confidence building.
Thanks! Try using counter conditioning. It also can just take time, so patience is key. Cheers! :)
i love how you will sometimes share a story with your own personal experience with one of your dogs or a client's dog you worked with which gives the sinario you are teaching, an actual incident you were then able to work through and how you did it. for me it makes it even more relatable and easier for me to understand and learn from.
Thank you! I'm happy the video was helpful. Cheers! :)
Great advice!
Thanks, buddy! Hit me up sometime! :)
Being submissive and fearful are two different things. Submission comes from the word "submit" this means that when a dog sees you (the owner) as an authority figure or a leader, then he submits himself to you. By doing so, he's not going to be in a fight, flight, or avoidance state of mind, and because of that, he wants to follow you wherever you go. On the other hand, when a dog is scared of you or from a particular situation, then he goes into a fearful state of mind. Out of fear, he may follow you, but that's not because he wants to, but because he wants to be with whats familier
Noun: submission.
the action or fact of accepting or yielding to a superior force or to the will or authority of another person.
Verb: submit.
accept or yield to a superior force or to the authority or will of another person.
Dogs don't think like humans... they don't know the difference between fear & submission...
@@naturallycurlyhair4413 You can pull out a dictionary all you want, however, that doesn't change the fact that dogs can't actually read..
Thanks for sharing your thoughts on the subject. Cheers!
Ok, I think Nate is generalizing vs trying to split hairs. In other words, there are too many trainers and owners out there who say "you need to make your dog submissive to you" who are anywhere from simply misled to angry ppl who dig on getting the green light to "dominate" something.
It sounds like your version of "submission" is very close to what Nate does: Creating a partnership with a dog where however, the human's the benevolent guide and thus the dog is comfortable with and interested in following.
Brilliant explanation. Incredibly helpful as always 👍🏻
Thanks, Susan!
What I find really helpful for confidence is to train a dog in a busy city, full of noises, trucks and people. Now my Australian shepherd doesn’t react to any loud tools, bulldozer, cranes, fire alarm, motorcycles, big stores, etc. And she loves people, especially babies.
Excellent video. A lot of common sense here. Thank you.
Another awesome video. Thank you very much Nate. I am going to use this video to train my baby with the vacuum.
Awesome!
Terrific tip about the vacuum cleaner! I'm already thinking of how to help my future dog (expected to be born any day now! :) ) get used to it. The video was super helpful, as always - this is exactly how I'm gonna do it. Thank you!
Awesome! Thanks for sharing and I'm happy the video was helpful. :)
Nates dogs are always so cute.
Lol! Thanks! :)
This was extremely helpful😄
Thanks! I’m happy it helped.
Awesome video! Lots of good ideas. I love how you got her to jump up onto successive platforms at Home Depot!
I think Cesar Milan propagated the idea that submission is a good thing... "calm submissive" "calm assertive" "insecure dominant"
Yes, I think you're correct.
Try positive reinforcement on an already aggressive reactive dog and see how that works.
Cesar Millán rehabilitates dogs who are already aggressive and close to being euthanized. He specifically explains that he doesn't train dogs.
@@alexrebelrebel It actually works really well!
I am pretty sure that like the context of “negative reinforcement/punishment” is widely misunderstood.
Often it’s referencing leash walking and trying to get them to understand that they don’t need to take charge. Alleviating responsibility makes life easier.
That is contrary to when many might think they have to force them to roll on their back and submit instead of submit and follow instruction.
Great advice 🙏
Thanks, G K! :)
such great ideas and great energy. you inspire us, Nate
Thank you. I have been unknowingly reinforcing anxiety when I take him to high traffic areas. I mistakenly thought exposure was enough to allow his fear to diminish. I will be mindful of HoW I reward his behaviors now!!
My pleasure and I'm happy the video was helpful. Cheers!
Hands down one of the greatest trainers putting the greatest info out there; thank you for this brother. If I buy one of those shirts will it make my arms look like yours?
Lol! Awesome! Thank you! You'll only know for sure if you order one and try it on.
Lol
Just found your channel. Love it. Subscribed. Great info and great lessons. Thank you for adding value to my life.
This is very good info
thanks Nate, this was amazing. I have a fearful dog of new people (strangers) but once he has met them 3 or 4 times, he seems to be good, then other issues like jumping come into play :)
So grateful to you for your timing here! What is your long line made from please?
Thanks! Nylon.
Very helpful
Hey Nate, Awesome upload! I appreciate the time you give to do what you do... You rock!
Thanks, Drake!
My dog is afraid of large groups of people. I am a professor - I brought him to class. At the end, students came up to me and he showed fear and lunged (didn't bite) one student. He is a GSD and just turning 6 months old. He wasn't like this a couple of months ago. Someone suggested taking him to places with lots of people and sit away from the crowd and just people watch with my dog. What do you think of this or what would be a better way to handle this?
He could be going through a fear period, which is usually around 7-9 months of age. The recommendation to "Take him to places with lots of people and sit away from the crowd and just people watch with my dog." is a good strategy, but it's missing some key details. Check out the info below. I think it'll be helpful.
For fear based behaviors, I almost always lean towards using a combination of counterconditioning and desensitization. Here's a section on it from one of my articles: Counterconditioning +R
Counterconditioning is a behavioral modification technique in which an undesired response to a stimulus is replaced by a new, more desirable response. This change is brought about by associating the stimulus with positive or pleasant experiences.
Counterconditioning is a valuable technique I often recommend, especially for dogs grappling with fear, usually alongside desensitization. It's pivotal to elevate a dog's confidence when addressing fear-based issues, as these can’t be rectified with positive punishment; such approaches only escalate the problem. Counterconditioning is a reliable and tested strategy that I incorporate for many of the fearful dogs I train.
For instance, consider a dog fearful of other dogs. A common method I employ involves visiting a local dog park-yet remaining outside of it. The goal is to be close enough for the dog to observe its fellow canines but at a sufficient distance to avoid any adverse reactions. The initial step is allowing the dog to watch the others; if the dog engages with me, we indulge in enjoyable obedience training or tug play, establishing strong, positive associations. Subsequently, we approach the park gradually, diminishing the distance daily until we can be adjacent to the park without any negative reactions from the dog in training. Often, anticipation and excitement replace fear as the dog learns to associate the park with fun and learning. This method is a clear demonstration of how altering a dog’s predictions can assist in conquering their fears.
Desensitization (paired with +R)
Desensitization is a process in which a dog is gradually exposed to a stimulus that causes an undesired response. The exposure begins at a level that doesn't elicit a negative reaction, usually through modifications like reducing volume, distance, or size of the stimulus, and over time, the intensity or proximity is slowly increased. While volume, distance, and size are common dimensions for modifying stimulus intensity, other variations exist depending on the specific nature of the stimulus and the individual dog’s reaction to it. The goal is to reduce or eliminate the dog's adverse reaction to the stimulus, allowing the dog to gradually acclimate to previously distressing stimuli in a controlled and manageable way.
Building on the previous example from the counterconditioning section, this process would involve allowing the dog to observe other dogs from a distance, gradually reducing this distance as the dog becomes more comfortable. This technique is instrumental in restructuring a dog’s fear responses and is incredibly impactful when executed correctly. It allows the transformation of the behavioral and neurological landscape of a dog dealing with fear issues. This slow and steady approach is pivotal in allowing the dog to replace fear and anxiety with confidence and calmness.
Another example involves a dog that is fearful of loud noises, such as thunderstorms or fireworks. In this scenario, desensitization would involve playing the sounds of thunder or fireworks at a very low volume-low enough that the dog doesn’t show signs of fear or anxiety. As the dog becomes accustomed to the noise level, the volume is gradually increased, allowing the dog to become more comfortable with louder noises over time. Concurrently, positive reinforcement, like treats or affection, is administered to encourage relaxed behavior at each step of increased volume.
The aim of desensitization in this instance is to enable the dog to comprehend that these noises are not threatening, allowing it to experience loud noises without fear or stress. This is particularly beneficial during instances when the loud noises are unavoidable, such as during a thunderstorm or festive celebrations with fireworks, thus making the experience less stressful for both the dog and the owner. However, a neat little trick that I have used with success is acclimating dogs to brown noise, starting low and gradually increasing the volume over time. Then, during fireworks or thunderstorms, I play the brown noise, effectively reducing the intensity of the external noise, making the process even smoother for the dog in training.
In conclusion, both counterconditioning and desensitization are powerful, humane methods of modifying behavior, often used in conjunction, to aid dogs in overcoming their fears and anxieties by replacing negative associations and responses with positive ones. Additionally, it’s vital to note that while these examples are illustrative, the application of these techniques may vary based on individual circumstances and the specific fears and anxieties exhibited by each dog.
Here's the article for reference: www.nateschoemer.com/post/how-to-choose-the-perfect-dog-training-method-for-your-pup
I hope this helps and thanks again for supporting the channel!
As always Nate you make it look and sound so easy but in reality it require tons of patience Lol.. I've been training my Boxer with your methods and its very effective thanks for sharing your knowledge. if you don't mind I have a tutorial video request, I searched youtube about how to train a Dog to grin or smile or show teeth like a warning but I couldn't find any, I was wondering if you could share us your method about this one. I want to teach my dog to greet people that way while waving hi Lol
Lol! The main thing is providing a physical cue that can get your dog to do the desired behavior. Once you accomplish that, then you can put it on a command, such as "Say Hi!". Follow this process for teaching the verbal command: ua-cam.com/video/Z-x05KZZ_mY/v-deo.html
FIRST REPONSE: "Oh wow this is a Malinois guy!" Funny because I immediately respect you as a trainer, but I still also feel like this breed shouldn't be owned by the general public. They are so damn smart. I'm a Collie person.
I want that shirt!
I’m pretty sure he sells them on his webpage. It helps support his channel.
Thanks! nateschoemershop.com/
Nate we just brought our new puppy home. She’s an 8 week old chocolate lab. She was the only female in the litter and comes from solid lines. She was very adventurous and exploring in the bushes and what not at the breeders home but as we’ve brought her home she’s become very shy and very timid. What’s the best way to work through this period with her and build a strong bond with her so we can start training her? She’s been exposed to different sounds and such in her first 7 weeks so noise doesn’t bother her she’s just not comfortable with the environment or us yet. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Most puppies take anywhere from a week to three weeks to get comfortable in their new environment. Just do your best to continue bonding with the puppy and giving food from your hand. You should see her true personality coming out within a few weeks. Cheers!
@nate since this is lesson 7, I will recommend to make playlist of this series and others and put link in the description of every video of that series.
Thanks and they are in a playlist together: ua-cam.com/video/Oh_FjwlgAMQ/v-deo.html
“ making them believe they are a super dog “😂😂😂
Nate, my new house has an electric door lock. My dog, 7 yrs, has never experienced this. I have been trying to associate it positively. I have been trying to use it as a marker where i activate it then spread a bunch of rewards on the floor away from it. She has gotten better during our sessions but she consistently runs and bites the doorknob.
I want to know how i can turn it into a positive thing and how i can impliment it into our training. We dont primarily use the front door so its something that she doesnt experience all the time, which is why i feel she hates the lock.
Thanks for this valuable important, I am going to try theses things on Bronte tomorrow, I am sure they will work!! Going to watch this again & take notes!
Great Video. I do have question though. My dog is a 5 month old German Shephard he is very confident and brave but when it comes to getting him in the car or entering different doors in different spots. He kind of cowers a bit. And sometimes he will just i guess the term is submissive urination all over. Any tips on that. He has no problem going threw the door and doors where we live at. It just seems to be other places he not familiar with. I know he still a bit young but idk if hell grow out of that. Or if i can do somethin to help with that now.
Yes. I would apply the counterconditioning and desensitization as explained in the video. Once he begins to realize it's not a big deal, his confidence will start to go up. I would also make sure he knows leash pressure. Lastly, I would walk through the doorway and use the leash pressure to make sure he follows. I also wouldn't make a big deal about it, since dogs often mimic us.
How would this work with my adult dog who is scared to be in public places? She won't take food (even high value) and is shaking and panting rather hard.
What Ivan said. 🐶😁
My 9 week old Rottweiler puppy is uninterested in training, or me, at all hahaha. I’m trying but man, she is stubborn.
Lol! That can happen. Not all dogs like training, but we can always do our best try and make it as fun as possible. Keep the sessions short and try to incorporate play. Cheers! :)
!! If it's possible to help a dog with vacuum noises and gunshots, surely it would be possible to desensitize them to the sound of knocking on doors/glass? I was trying to help a pooch overcome his fear of strangers approaching the door, maybe I've been targetting the wrong thing
Ever since I saw your video about tug and falling down, etc, our puppy's confidence has grown a lot. We recently had an experience where she was greeting one of her best doggo friends after a month or so of being apart. She was very excited/chasing but putting her paws on the dog, growling and being too rough, which we have never seen before. Is it a good idea to correct her in this instance, or at least taking her by the collar and waiting for her to settle? We don't want to undo any of the confidence she has built, but we also don't want her to become a bully or think it's okay to greet dogs like that.
Lol! Yes, that can happen. I just use leash pressure in this situation, the same way I would stop a dog from jumping on furniture. I would say "wrong" or whatever word you choose, then I would use leash pressure to stop the behavior. Check out this video to see what I mean: ua-cam.com/video/PL482q8E0W4/v-deo.html
@@NateSchoemer Cheers!
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Thanks!
May I ask when you say “I only fed my dog outside and desensitize” do you mean consuming the whole food portion while training, or do you mean feed as if hand feed or bowl feed.
What to do if my dog is scared of brushes/being brushed
We have a golden retriever and we’re working with a trainer who told me our dog is dominant by submission…is this really a thing and can a dog actually be dominant by submission?
Thank you for your videos. I very much like your approach. Any recommendations on how I can make my husky not to fear thunderstorms and fireworks?
ua-cam.com/video/2FqRJdmvSPA/v-deo.html
If I fall on the ground and let my almost 4 month year old husky Sheppard win the tug of war then she starts jumping all over me and biting me everywhere. Puncturing kind of bites too.
She knows basic commands but when she doesn’t stop or listen I end up having to grab her by the collar and put her in her time out crate
Thank you. I enjoy watching your videos. My dog is terrified of bugs bees and spiders so all summer he is soooo upset and I can't figure out how to make him less fearful. He is getting better with his confidence as he does have other issues but we are figuring these out.
Thanks!
What do we do if our dog is so scared in Public places he won’t even accept treats??
Aahhh so I can use the dog food she likes to desensitize her. 8:07
Yes, counterconditioning and desensitization. :)
Home Depot will let me take my dog in?! 😮
Yes. 😁🐶
I’m 47, and work as a healthcare professional; however, it’s not my passion. My passion and dream is to be an excellent dog trainer/behaviorist and offer help pro Bono to the shelter dogs in my town to help increase dogs’ chances of getting adopted. How can I become a trainer? I think watching your videos is huge as you have so much great content (and a lot of it) and applying it with the shelter dogs as a volunteer is a start (?) Hate seeing dogs labeled non-adoptable 😰
Thanks! I would start with this video: ua-cam.com/video/XQRgci18tvY/v-deo.html
Then I would practice with as many dogs as possible. The most important thing from my experience being an instructor at the Tom Rose School for professional dog trainers, is not the school as much as it is the work put in by the trainer. It takes experience and many many hours of practice. Of course, the schooling helps as well.
You can also check out Leerburg online university. They have some really solid courses. I like the Michael Ellis and the Forrest Micke courses.
I hope this helps! Cheers!
@@NateSchoemer hey thank you so much 😊 I’m on your video now (link provided above). I appreciate it
Wow I'm currently going through this right now with my White GS 😪 I love your videos Nate and they make sense completely 💪 I wish you were in NY to Help me out 🙏 GodBless You
Thanks! I really appreciate that! :)
This is want a confident dog! “Cookie” she just runs away “tail tuck rock and roll” 😵💫
Love “Bolt”❣️
I see you have seen this episode. :) I hope it's proven to add value to your training program. :)
Hi Nate how can we train a dog to fetch and retrieve if she is very low motivated to toys and to open her mouth to touch an object ????
My dog only arrive to touch an object with her noise but she doesn’t really want to open her mouth to go to the next step
Same things if I play fetch with her she doesn’t care at all
How can we improve this 2 aspects ????
Thanks a lot
Andrea from italy 🇮🇹 😁
Thanks! I would probably have to make a video on it, but you would want to do drive building. You can see an example of it on this video: ua-cam.com/video/HeVWMcwbf1w/v-deo.html
My schnauzer was very treat motivated but could care less about fetch - I started with very short tosses and traded her food for the frisbee. Also the flirt pole really helped
I played tug with my dog🐕
Awesome! :)
Wonderful content as always Nate! I'm studying to be a dog trainer and using all relationship and engagement concepts so I certainly love your last line there :)
I've been unsure about something for a while and just wondering if I could get your input??
I'm working with a friend's dog that has dog-dog reactivity and I'm doing a number of different techniques from a great distance from other dogs.
I just thought of a possible exercise but I can't figure if it would be a good idea or a bad idea:
Thought is to have her be in parked car with me with the windows rolled up and treat her as she sees other dogs from a little less far. I'm thinking this would make her feel safe from them since she's in the car? Or would it maybe make her feel MORE threatened because she's in the car?!
And if it IS a good idea, should I treat her when she's looking at the dogs but not barking (for classical conditioning), or only when she glances back at me (operant)?
Thx in advance for any input!! You're the best!!
Nice! Thank you! My one year old Labradoodle shepherd mix has been acting fearful when new people come to our home. I want to work with her to prevent this behavior.
Got a new dog and it’s just so overwhelming. I feel like I have to become a trainer, when all I really wanted was a companion.
Hi Nate, we just adopted a rescue dog. He hasn't had much experience with the lobby and the elevator. The elevator door almost closed once when he was trying to come in and out. Now he doesn't want to go outside of our apartment and we really need him to get to go potty as opposed to our balcony. He is super anxious and scared. How can we make him at least step outside of the apartment?
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Thanks, Kevin! :)