That’s quite a bit more involved than replacing the battery on my first VW - a 1961 Beetle. The battery was under the rear seat. Hopefully I’ll be able to find your video when I need to replace it in the ID.4. You make it look easy. Thanks!
That's easy peasy, there's nothing to it. Removing the battery in your '61 Beetle will be more complex as it requires removing the seat to gain access to the battery.
Really good video! If I will need to change the battery in our id4 I know it will be a job I can perform myself. When you see all these wires and plastic it can be quite intimidating. One thing I do wonder is why would you have to replace a 12 volt battery after such short time? I mean the Id4 has not been out for more than a year. I also have a 2017 diesel car with 68000 miles (110000km) living in cold conditions and using the diesel heater regularly 5 months per year and there is still no sign of lost capacity.
I am just wondering why VW did not replace this 12 V lead acid battery with 12 V Lithium Ferrous Phosphate battery, which will result in weight reduction and extended life.
When I disconnected the negative pole, I noticed small sparks between the pole end the terminal and the same when I reconnected it. Since nobody was sitting in the driver’s seat, the ignition should be switched off and the electric consume very low…I can’t figure out the reason of those sparks. In you video the disconnection is clean, whit no sparks at all, what did you switch off previously? Thank you.
Before disconnecting, should I attached a 12V “maintainer” to keep power to the car? I’ve heard that disconnecting this 12v battery will confuse the computer or require re-activation or something.
Disconnect the 12V battery then operate the green HV disconnect in front of it. I have a video on this in my ID.4 playlist. That should shut the whole car down and isolate both batteries.
Lots of talk that this is a very difficult battery to replace and VW designed it so only the dealer could do it… not the case! :-) although it may need to be programmed, but a DIY’er could save some money by swapping the battery and only paying for the coding this way. Yeah… I need to boost the audio on future videos. Too quiet.
@@fiehlsport I'm curious why the new 12 volt battery would need to be coded? Is it because the car loses power,? If so one option would be to hook up a 12 volt booster pack while you're removing the 12-volt battery. As long as the car sees 12 volts and not an interruption in that power I bet you would not need to do the reprogramming.
@@kens97sto171 The vehicle tracks the degradation in capacity, a lot of German cars are like this. There's more to it than that (I don't fully understand) but when a new battery is installed the computer needs to know.
@@simonstafrace7771 German cars can be a little complicated, but you gain some benefits like not having to worry about driving around with a taillight out.
Merhaba arkadaşım aküyü neden değiştiniz !? Benim başım I6 ile belada 3 aydır travel assist hatası veriyor ayrıca acc hatasıda var çok teknisyen baktı fakat bir türlü olmuyor aracım grey market bayilerde yok servis bakamıyor yalnız çoğu teknisyen direksiyon tuş takımı bozuk oldugunu söylüyor yalnız burada parça bulamıyorum araç çin ithalatı çin den bakıyoruz bazı arkadaşlar forum sitelerinde akü değişimi yapıldıktan sonra hataların düzeldiğini söylüyor araç 2021 yalnız akü ölçümünde 12,8 akü durumu iyi görünüyor aküde başka bir problem olabilirmi arkadaşım
Dinlenme halindeki 12,8 volt sağlıklı bir akü olmalıdır. Araç açıldığında 14-15 olacaktır. Pilimi değiştirmeye gerek duymadım ama ihtiyaç duyanlar için bir eğitim videosu çektim. 12v piliniz sağlıklıysa bir yerde hatalı bir modülünüz olabilir. iyi şanslar!
@@fiehlsport Since we don't need or use the cold-cranking amps of a traditional car battery, shouldn't the lifespan of these accessory batteries far exceed traditional car batteries? On my truck, it seems to need a new starter battery like clockwork every 3 years, but I kind of guessed the battery in the id4 just last forever, assuming the car is using the big battery to keep the little one full just about all the time.
All EVs use this design. The motor runs off the high voltage battery, but everything else, which is standard car techology, still runs on 12v. The infotainment, settings, windows, mirrors - it all runs off the 12v battery. The big battery is able to recharge the 12v one.
What a terrible piece of engineering. I've been replacing my own batteries in vehicles for 50 years. Some have been a little more difficult than others, but given that the battery is a component that needs to be replaced fairly often (especially here in the desert) you would expect VW to make it easier, not harder. This set up means most people will give up and take it to a dealer, where they'll charge $300 for a battery replacement. Oh - maybe that was the point in this design. (Thanks to this video, I'll probably do my own though!)
I assume I'm a total noob, but , how come he does not protect himself with gloves, so that he does not get electrocuted by the battery... I supose nothing happens if you do not touch positive & negative at same time, but even like that, it's scary that somehow...
You do not need PPE when working on low voltage 12V systems like this. OSHA defines high voltage as 50V and up - anything in orange conduit on the vehicle you should be careful around. The high voltage (400V) battery is VERY dangerous and shouldn't be messed with unless you take precautions with PPE and insulated tools.
That’s quite a bit more involved than replacing the battery on my first VW - a 1961 Beetle. The battery was under the rear seat. Hopefully I’ll be able to find your video when I need to replace it in the ID.4. You make it look easy. Thanks!
That's easy peasy, there's nothing to it. Removing the battery in your '61 Beetle will be more complex as it requires removing the seat to gain access to the battery.
Yes, that looked easy, only because it was an expert at it, let me at it and that would be a good 45+ minute project.🤭
VW engineers decided to tug in the battery pretty good. Thanks for showing us the steps, though!
Really good video! If I will need to change the battery in our id4 I know it will be a job I can perform myself. When you see all these wires and plastic it can be quite intimidating.
One thing I do wonder is why would you have to replace a 12 volt battery after such short time? I mean the Id4 has not been out for more than a year. I also have a 2017 diesel car with 68000 miles (110000km) living in cold conditions and using the diesel heater regularly 5 months per year and there is still no sign of lost capacity.
please make a video how to change transmission oil
thanks a lot.
Do you have more Maintenance Videos?
I am just wondering why VW did not replace this 12 V lead acid battery with 12 V Lithium Ferrous Phosphate battery, which will result in weight reduction and extended life.
Thank you for this instructive video how to replace the battery. How long does the battery lasts in an ID4?
Hopefully 5 years like typical vehicles, but it could be less, as some EVs have shown. Too early to tell if this is a quality battery yet.
@@fiehlsport Its not - couldnt start my AUDI Q40 today due to problem with start battery most likely. Not sure yet - will know more tomorrow
When I disconnected the negative pole, I noticed small sparks between the pole end the terminal and the same when I reconnected it. Since nobody was sitting in the driver’s seat, the ignition should be switched off and the electric consume very low…I can’t figure out the reason of those sparks. In you video the disconnection is clean, whit no sparks at all, what did you switch off previously? Thank you.
Hi .
I am new with evs .
Would i newd to reset any computers or do anything else after changing teh the 12v battery?
Thanks for the help, I just had to replace mine. Super easy to follow along with!
Can anybody tell us the alternative battery?
Before disconnecting, should I attached a 12V “maintainer” to keep power to the car? I’ve heard that disconnecting this 12v battery will confuse the computer or require re-activation or something.
No need, unless you've got one handy - it can't hurt! I never had any issues removing the 12V upon reboot.
Is a regular lead Acid 12v battery, nothing special??
Hello!
I wanted to know, we want to carry out welding work on the body part, but we do not know how to turn off the battery power, could you help us?
Disconnect the 12V battery then operate the green HV disconnect in front of it. I have a video on this in my ID.4 playlist. That should shut the whole car down and isolate both batteries.
Thank you so much 🙏
Thanks for the video ...Why did you take the battery out? Oh I'm sure you know your audio is very low
Lots of talk that this is a very difficult battery to replace and VW designed it so only the dealer could do it… not the case! :-) although it may need to be programmed, but a DIY’er could save some money by swapping the battery and only paying for the coding this way. Yeah… I need to boost the audio on future videos. Too quiet.
@@fiehlsport
I'm curious why the new 12 volt battery would need to be coded? Is it because the car loses power,? If so one option would be to hook up a 12 volt booster pack while you're removing the 12-volt battery. As long as the car sees 12 volts and not an interruption in that power I bet you would not need to do the reprogramming.
@@kens97sto171 The vehicle tracks the degradation in capacity, a lot of German cars are like this. There's more to it than that (I don't fully understand) but when a new battery is installed the computer needs to know.
Omg this is insane to desgin it like this.
@@simonstafrace7771 German cars can be a little complicated, but you gain some benefits like not having to worry about driving around with a taillight out.
Merhaba arkadaşım aküyü neden değiştiniz !? Benim başım I6 ile belada 3 aydır travel assist hatası veriyor ayrıca acc hatasıda var çok teknisyen baktı fakat bir türlü olmuyor aracım grey market bayilerde yok servis bakamıyor yalnız çoğu teknisyen direksiyon tuş takımı bozuk oldugunu söylüyor yalnız burada parça bulamıyorum araç çin ithalatı çin den bakıyoruz bazı arkadaşlar forum sitelerinde akü değişimi yapıldıktan sonra hataların düzeldiğini söylüyor araç 2021 yalnız akü ölçümünde 12,8 akü durumu iyi görünüyor aküde başka bir problem olabilirmi arkadaşım
Dinlenme halindeki 12,8 volt sağlıklı bir akü olmalıdır. Araç açıldığında 14-15 olacaktır. Pilimi değiştirmeye gerek duymadım ama ihtiyaç duyanlar için bir eğitim videosu çektim. 12v piliniz sağlıklıysa bir yerde hatalı bir modülünüz olabilir. iyi şanslar!
@@fiehlsport sağolun arkadaşım ilgi alakanız için teşekkür ediyorum 🙂👍
Hi Alex,
Do you have the issue with your rear LED light bar expanding and not sitting flush on the back? If so, have you found any fix?
It’s a known issue. The fix are extra clips, VW will do it for you for free. I bring mine in on the 21st.
Yep, I’ve got the same problem. Taking it to the dealer in a few days to get more clips hopefully.
@@fiehlsport Hey Alex- Can you share your experience? Was the dealership able to fix the issue?
@@cdotwu they ordered a new light bar. Still no sign of it. Coming from Germany.
@@fiehlsport Thanks for the update. Seems like a common issue from what I'm seeing
Like anybody actually has the ever elusive 10mm socket....
🤷🏻♂️
ok.... so whats up? The vehicle just come out. Is there an electrical problem that drains the battery. Tell me?
What is the purpose of this 12v battery?
Only the propulsion system and HVAC utilize the 400V "big" battery in this car, the rest of the electronics are 12V just like a normal gas car.
@@fiehlsport Since we don't need or use the cold-cranking amps of a traditional car battery, shouldn't the lifespan of these accessory batteries far exceed traditional car batteries? On my truck, it seems to need a new starter battery like clockwork every 3 years, but I kind of guessed the battery in the id4 just last forever, assuming the car is using the big battery to keep the little one full just about all the time.
All EVs use this design. The motor runs off the high voltage battery, but everything else, which is standard car techology, still runs on 12v. The infotainment, settings, windows, mirrors - it all runs off the 12v battery. The big battery is able to recharge the 12v one.
For that I bring it into the garage.
What a terrible piece of engineering. I've been replacing my own batteries in vehicles for 50 years. Some have been a little more difficult than others, but given that the battery is a component that needs to be replaced fairly often (especially here in the desert) you would expect VW to make it easier, not harder. This set up means most people will give up and take it to a dealer, where they'll charge $300 for a battery replacement. Oh - maybe that was the point in this design. (Thanks to this video, I'll probably do my own though!)
To make up for it, they made the cabin air filter extremely easy to replace.
The dealer near me is asking $485 for the 12v battery replacement…
Yikes, well if your car still has software 2.1, you'll get a free one when they upgrade it to 3.2 anyways. :-)
I assume I'm a total noob, but , how come he does not protect himself with gloves, so that he does not get electrocuted by the battery... I supose nothing happens if you do not touch positive & negative at same time, but even like that, it's scary that somehow...
You do not need PPE when working on low voltage 12V systems like this. OSHA defines high voltage as 50V and up - anything in orange conduit on the vehicle you should be careful around. The high voltage (400V) battery is VERY dangerous and shouldn't be messed with unless you take precautions with PPE and insulated tools.
That's easy peasy, there's nothing to it.
The trick is going to remember where all of the pieces go when you’re finished.
Installation is the reverse of removal.
Battery in EV car 😂