You saved this D10 owner about $4500± By rebuilding that ripper shank. I’ve never seen a shank so warn down either. I would have approached repairing it quite differently, but after watching your repair, it’s clearly the best way. I learn something every time I watch you videos. Keep them coming.
Not really. I'd price the job at well over a grand, meaning they saved maybe $3500 for a product that will wear out faster than just buying the new part and replacing it. It's their money to waste so if they want to waste it, that's their choice,.
@@ravenbarsrepairs5594 I don't know what hourly rates are in this biz, for the equipment and skill and overhead and travel, my naive guess would be $1800+/day ($200+/hr). Is that about right?
I’m retired from an entirely unrelated business, but I had two customers like this owner who insisted on bandaids until things broke to where nobody could fix them. They funded my retirement plan in a handsome way for almost a decade, and they kept calling even after I retired. Seems nobody else needed their money bad enough to what I did for so long. Ironically, they knew what my hourly rate was, and paid it for bandaids when they could have saved big bucks by simply letting me replace their broken crap. At the end of the day I would do anything they wanted as long as it didn’t violate codes or cause safety issues. Money is money!
Capital eschews no profit, or very small profit, just as Nature was formerly said to abhor a vacuum. With adequate profit, capital is very bold. A certain 10 per cent. will ensure its employment anywhere; 20 per cent. certain will produce eagerness; 50 per cent., positive audacity; 100 per cent. will make it ready to trample on all human laws; 300 per cent., and there is not a crime at which it will scruple, nor a risk it will not run, even to the chance of its owner being hanged. If turbulence and strife will bring a profit, it will freely encourage both.
I worked for 34 years in a completely unrelated field. What I find interesting is how much creativity you demonstrate in fabricating a fix for each situation, especially given the constraints placed on you by the owner (usually "get it done fast"). Great work!
What an amazing repair. I looked at some original D10 rippers and understand what "time to replace" means. I'm sure you saved the owners a bundle of money, but proper maintenance certainly has its advantages. Thanks for the excellent video with discussion of your thinking about the repair. I really appreciate your videos.
@@OFW i could only imagine what your thoughts were for them pins.. that ripper shank is a nightmare! Holy hell man that looked like a brutal task all around lol nice repair of a bandaid though, as a fellow welder also it shows you absolutely tried
Very nice work. Sadly the D10 has so much power, nothing will last very long. The other viewer are correct by saying, a new ripper shank with a shin guard would be the ticket. Then what would we do for a living….LOL. Hope the repair lasts a while under the extreme conditions.
Between you and Kurtis from CEE..... its unreal how much ive learned just from the crap jobs yall get but COMPLETELY TRIUMPH on the repair! Yall 2 are the 1% of the 1%!! Nicely done bro!!
Wow! Had to watch your whole repair. Problem solving in motion!. It seems like they should have designed a V shaped sleeve to wrap around that NEW ripper shank. Replacing would be easier but you have done a titanic job there in a relatively short time and it may have been cheaper than the sleeve. My bet is that your repair will outlast the original. Would love to see how it fared 2 years down the track.
You didn't sound yo enthused on working on that an I can't blame you as you had already worked on it once before and as you stated it definitely needed to be torn down an repaired ! Good job with what you had to work with ! 👍👍
Greg, 'we don't need no stinking broken welds'......ya done did what ya thought would get them going.....hate when another guy comes and fools with my work....if I screwed it up, let me repair it......sorry for your loss there buddy....cheers from Orlando, Florida, Paul
@@MFKR696 Thank you for your kind comments. As far as getting hired back, that is no worry, as I work for free, the only thing I do not like about the job, is the Striped Coveralls I have to wear and the pesky guy with the Mirrored Sunglasses.....Cheers
That is a ingenious way to fix that ripper. I am surprised they don't have that thing hard surfaced to let that wear off instead of the blade. Nice fix though. Frustrating to have to do that in the field. I am sure over time your cost is as much as fixing it right the first time. Keep up the great content.
On the pin retainer. A piece of channel extended past to two bolts . And a bolt and 2 nuts beyond that so the front keeps the pin from coming out without restricting wobble in the bores. A piece of leaf spring would do it too. With a spreader plate . If the spring is extended and touching the flange. The bolts would be in tension instead of shear.
Just copying the other side where the plate sticks under the 2-bolt clamp...when it still turns and rips off, there's someting wrong with the other side of the pin that makes it spinning... The ripper tooth fixing looked really like from Mad Max, but will do the job, nice! Thx for the vid! 🤣👍👍👍
I read comments asking why things are not getting done right, what the customer ask for is what the customer gets. When the bill gets paid all the time that is all that matters in a long run.
Patching up that broken Pin, makes me think of the Saying ""That's like putting a $500.00 suit on a Pig, it's still a Pig but it's a really good looking Pig. You dressed that Pig up as well as humanly possible, great job !!!
Maintenance, maintenance, and more maintenance it what's needed for this machine!!!!!! If it's taken care of it will take care of you!!!! Once again...........Bad A.. field work again. Can't wait for the next.
I would have told that good old boy to replace that one shank. But that's just me I know there expensive but in the long run he might be better off.... But your welding looks amazing. I would love a update on this machine if you could..
I know that it's aggravates you when you cannot fix something right when they all they want to do is patch it and patch it and patch it then it makes it look like you are doing a shoddy job love you videos be safe have a great day Sam
Can you imagine the pressure that ripper has on it once it deep in the ground an rocks . It’s unbelievable that pulling power of a D10 , literally grinding off 15:09 metal in slow motion !!!
Not sure if the customers do it or not and especially in this case...but sending photos of what is at hand will help and help you in making informed decisions what to bring with to site
@@OFW Add a "no picture provided" surcharge. State it up front, bet you get pictures every single time. My buddy will not even bother going out to jobs that refuse to send a picture, to him, it is not worth his time to load extra plate "just in case" and burn even more fuel. Or worse case, get to the job and have to go back to the shop, then back to the job to finish. I didn't get it at first but I see it now, though it depends on if you are flush with work and can tell people to fuck off.
Absolutely spot on...photos/videos in today's era is critical...30yrs ago it was acceptable...not anymore. For me as a plumber i insist on videos. Most of the times i fix the problem over the phone especially when there are blocked drains. Explain the abled doer to do A-B-C and Bob's your uncle. Saved me to quote my call out and labor only to tell me its too much.
@@canniballectus2560 that is a good idea. But honestly I’m on the clock from when I leave my driveway to when I get back and if I have to drive back to the shop I’m still making the same money as sweating my ass off in the dirt. But it can be frustrating like on this dozer where the drive time was 2 hours each way.
i stopped taking jobs from owners like this that just beat their equipment without proper maintenance and just expect bandaids to last forever because when that bandaid breaks and they always do they always point the finger at you. great job tho keep it up!
It would be nice to have that in a shop. To add about 3/8" of weld to the front, then mill off about the same from the rear and weld 2" wide beveled strips to the front to get it closer to flat, then put a roughly 1/2"-3/4" plate on each side with alot of 2" plug welds or just make a new one! And make a wear plate, 3/8" plate over the front with a 2" round bar welded to the front, with hard facing along the sides, run beads from top to bottom. On the front round bar, at the top skip a inch on each side add another bead top to bottom, skip about a half inch. Add another bead, maybe weld a cross hatch pattern between beads have recessed hole to bolt this piece on, a couple 3/8" holes from back to front may work, a 3/8" hole in a 4" thick bar isn't going to weaken it much, have maybe 4 long 3/8 grade 8 bolts should hold on the u shaped cover . 3/8" thick maybe 1/2" with welds, and the front edge with the holes drilled and tapped. Bring 2-3/8" to 2-1/2" thick with the threads being only , 1/2" deep to prevent dirt from damaging threads after wear, hopefully the hard facing would slow the wear, having the front nearly cover with hard facing.. maybe making the front wider and harder it can take the wear from the other 80%of the structure, the design can use improvement
Can you please share your welding setup. Brand, model of flux core, settings please? I'm new to field repairs via flux core as we're usually held to 7018 5/32 in our sand and gravel pits. Much appreciated!
machine makes probably 600 an hour operator about 30 an hour owner drives an 80 k pickup wife has a new car every year , and band aids lol , as always great WORK
Will that ripper be able to retract? You are building up the front edge out beyond its original position. The last adjustment hole is below your addition.
I notice you use a suitcase a lot. I have a 12VS I’m trying to run on a trailblazer 325. I can’t seem to get it set up correctly to make a decent weld with self shielded flux core. Need to do a lot of build up on a shear. Typically use 7018 but trying to speed it up with wire. Any recommendations for settings and/wire from anyone would Be appreciated!
How old is your 12 VS? Some of the earliest ones out had wire feed issues because of the acute angle the wire came off the spool into the drive. They would quickly wear a groove in the guide tube and you could drive yourself bonkers changing tips an liners to no end. Once you have them dialled in , they will run dual shield like butter on toast. Ones yours have a switch to change between CC and CV? You will want to match that with the setting on your welder.
What’s the cost savings by doing that? Great work!!! Your man hours are worth a decent amount. Within reason, what is considered a good amount of time before it breaks again? I know it’s job dependent.
Maybe a stupid question, but ... the OEM pin has a pin retainer arm. It broke off and the pin keeps backing out. Why not just replace the pin with a new OEM pin and retainer arm? Short of that, why not fix the broken retainer arm so that it works as designed? Thanks. (I've been running and fixing heavy equipment for 40 years)
Because the bores the pin goes into are all wore out and have a bunch of slop. A new pin would do nothing and the retainer arm would probably break right off. The ripper assembly needs to be tore apart and line bored. But it appears my customer doesn’t want to do that just yet.
Be interesting to know how you handle your laundry. Your job involves a lot of dirt, grease, and sweat. Do you have a change room before coming into the house?
The owner of this machine ain't too smart what he's getting you to do ain't even Band-Aids. But I get it you do what you're told to do all you can do is tell them hey I think we need to do this instead
Is that ripper made of T2 tool steel for wear resistance? Will your regular cold rolled flat stock last under those conditions? Or is this another completely viable situation where you just have to get them back up and running? Some 7018 on the wear points might help it last longer since it's tougher than regular cold rolled steel.
@@OFW I worked as a Maintenance Technician for over 37 years, before I retired, at a plastic injection molding plant that served the home exterior products industry. I know there are times when you just have to get something going and use what you have available. That's a perfectly viable part of maintenance, though certainly not preferred, so long as there is a plan in play for a more permanent solution. (There really are no permanent solutions when it comes to equipment as entropy happens - nothing lasts forever). Also, I'll have to admit my ignorance about AR 400 steel. I've never used it as T2 was our go-to for wear resistance in our facility.
@@OFW I was first introduced to T2 as it was used in injection molding to increase wear resistance. An ingredient added to plastics, specifically polypropylene, to add strength is calcium, which abraids the steel of the mold under the required 10,000 psi pressure during injection. Other, more specialized steels like Xalloy are used for the barrels and mixing screws. Because of my experience with T2 I often specified it when needed for its wear resistance properties. We kind of pick things up from those that were the older dogs in the business; when we were the young pup. When we find things that have been working we tend to stick with them.
Someone needs to find the grease zerks on the pin and all the rest of them and add some grease! Sad to take a nice dozer like that and run it into the ground! A little preventative maintenance would have stopped all of that.
I see a ripper tip nose but damn they wore the shit outta that without a shin guard. I don’t even see pin holes anymore. Why? It’s not hard for them to just put a new one on.
I'm curious to see how it holds up. I thought cutting out and welding in one giant plate would have been better, but maybe not a fix that could be made by one man in the field. It's amazing how much wear occurred.
This didn't happen in 5 minutes. The operator either never looked or never cared about the state of the ripping shank. I know from another totally unrelated video that these shanks cost plenty of money and need constant observation to keep the shank in operational order.
Yeah oh my God really. I cant believe they just don’t replace the ripper arm. And even if unavailable why did hey wait sos long to patch her up, guess they never thought of hardfacing.
Holy shit batman that's wore the fuck out nice repair bud. And I have to ask what dumbass turns a dozer with the ripper in the ground. Never really see them bent like that until some turns just a little bit. Nice work bud.
You saved this D10 owner about $4500± By rebuilding that ripper shank. I’ve never seen a shank so warn down either. I would have approached repairing it quite differently, but after watching your repair, it’s clearly the best way. I learn something every time I watch you videos. Keep them coming.
Not really. I'd price the job at well over a grand, meaning they saved maybe $3500 for a product that will wear out faster than just buying the new part and replacing it. It's their money to waste so if they want to waste it, that's their choice,.
@@ravenbarsrepairs5594 I don't know what hourly rates are in this biz, for the equipment and skill and overhead and travel, my naive guess would be $1800+/day ($200+/hr). Is that about right?
I’m retired from an entirely unrelated business, but I had two customers like this owner who insisted on bandaids until things broke to where nobody could fix them. They funded my retirement plan in a handsome way for almost a decade, and they kept calling even after I retired. Seems nobody else needed their money bad enough to what I did for so long. Ironically, they knew what my hourly rate was, and paid it for bandaids when they could have saved big bucks by simply letting me replace their broken crap. At the end of the day I would do anything they wanted as long as it didn’t violate codes or cause safety issues. Money is money!
Capital eschews no profit, or very small profit, just as Nature was formerly said to abhor a vacuum. With adequate profit, capital is very bold. A certain 10 per cent. will ensure its employment anywhere; 20 per cent. certain will produce eagerness; 50 per cent., positive audacity; 100 per cent. will make it ready to trample on all human laws; 300 per cent., and there is not a crime at which it will scruple, nor a risk it will not run, even to the chance of its owner being hanged. If turbulence and strife will bring a profit, it will freely encourage both.
THATS WHAT Im talking and sharing in the post above with this welder....WELL DONE, JOE
Cheapskates pay twice
That ripper shank ended up like some kind of art piece.
I worked for 34 years in a completely unrelated field. What I find interesting is how much creativity you demonstrate in fabricating a fix for each situation, especially given the constraints placed on you by the owner (usually "get it done fast"). Great work!
What an amazing repair. I looked at some original D10 rippers and understand what "time to replace" means. I'm sure you saved the owners a bundle of money, but proper maintenance certainly has its advantages. Thanks for the excellent video with discussion of your thinking about the repair. I really appreciate your videos.
Between you and IC Wield you guys get the most crappiest jobs but your artist and do great work ! That is why i like watching you both !
Thank you. I like to think I do some work that most others turn down.
@@OFW I think you are right Greg.....
I agree Issac gets some things that are real cans of worms. Even Kurtis of CEE does some real severe rebuilds , customers just won’t give up.
@@OFW i could only imagine what your thoughts were for them pins.. that ripper shank is a nightmare! Holy hell man that looked like a brutal task all around lol nice repair of a bandaid though, as a fellow welder also it shows you absolutely tried
@@dirtfarmer7472 With the extreme shortage of replacement parts and supplies, Kurtis is hitting plans b, c & d a lot more often.
Very nice work. Sadly the D10 has so much power, nothing will last very long. The other viewer are correct by saying, a new ripper shank with a shin guard would be the ticket. Then what would we do for a living….LOL. Hope the repair lasts a while under the extreme conditions.
Between you and Kurtis from CEE..... its unreal how much ive learned just from the crap jobs yall get but COMPLETELY TRIUMPH on the repair! Yall 2 are the 1% of the 1%!! Nicely done bro!!
you are a great craftsman, show us that ripper again after some time, this is the most different repair I have seen you do, cheers
Wow! Had to watch your whole repair. Problem solving in motion!. It seems like they should have designed a V shaped sleeve to wrap around that NEW ripper shank. Replacing would be easier but you have done a titanic job there in a relatively short time and it may have been cheaper than the sleeve. My bet is that your repair will outlast the original. Would love to see how it fared 2 years down the track.
Hey man like the vids. Would love to see a truck tour. That looks like one nice rig.
Your a really patient guy, hope your customer threats you well.
What part of "worn out" do these people not understand? A lack of a shin guard caused this and even T-1 won't solve it.
AR 400 would help
That's my question too, why do they keep saying "it's wore out"? Or is broke out, or the ground is froze, etc.
You didn't sound yo enthused on working on that an I can't blame you as you had already worked on it once before and as you stated it definitely needed to be torn down an repaired ! Good job with what you had to work with ! 👍👍
Greg, 'we don't need no stinking broken welds'......ya done did what ya thought would get them going.....hate when another guy comes and fools with my work....if I screwed it up, let me repair it......sorry for your loss there buddy....cheers from Orlando, Florida, Paul
@@MFKR696 Thank you for your kind comments. As far as getting hired back, that is no worry, as I work for free, the only thing I do not like about the job, is the Striped Coveralls I have to wear and the pesky guy with the Mirrored Sunglasses.....Cheers
That is a ingenious way to fix that ripper. I am surprised they don't have that thing hard surfaced to let that wear off instead of the blade. Nice fix though. Frustrating to have to do that in the field. I am sure over time your cost is as much as fixing it right the first time. Keep up the great content.
On the pin retainer. A piece of channel extended past to two bolts . And a bolt and 2 nuts beyond that so the front keeps the pin from coming out without restricting wobble in the bores.
A piece of leaf spring would do it too. With a spreader plate . If the spring is extended and touching the flange. The bolts would be in tension instead of shear.
Just copying the other side where the plate sticks under the 2-bolt clamp...when it still turns and rips off, there's someting wrong with the other side of the pin that makes it spinning...
The ripper tooth fixing looked really like from Mad Max, but will do the job, nice!
Thx for the vid!
🤣👍👍👍
I read comments asking why things are not getting done right, what the customer ask for is what the customer gets. When the bill gets paid all the time that is all that matters in a long run.
Patching up that broken Pin, makes me think of the Saying ""That's like putting a $500.00 suit on a Pig, it's still a Pig but it's a really good looking Pig. You dressed that Pig up as well as humanly possible, great job !!!
Preventative maintenance some do some don’t not easy to working on this gear thanks for sharing 🦘👍
When they pay, they say (I guess). Thanks for bringing us along!
Brings back memories! Lol! Good job! Kent
Tough tough day, and you handled it like a real pro
Never got time to do it right but got all day to do it twice. Nice work Brother "making cookies out of dog shot" still pays the bills.
have service truck will travel... they won't tear into it , your saving them thousands of dollars.. and doing a mighty fine job every time.. enjoyed
Maintenance, maintenance, and more maintenance it what's needed for this machine!!!!!! If it's taken care of it will take care of you!!!! Once again...........Bad A.. field work again. Can't wait for the next.
Would love to see this Shank in a month or so. Curious as to how much wear happens to it.
without a shank protector not very long
Yes it’ll be gone quickly but the customer is always right, even when he is wrong.
Beautiful work sir ! shame they don’t fix it the right way but you can only do what they want you to ! keep up the great videos and great work👍🏼🫡🤩
I would have told that good old boy to replace that one shank. But that's just me I know there expensive but in the long run he might be better off.... But your welding looks amazing. I would love a update on this machine if you could..
I know that it's aggravates you when you cannot fix something right when they all they want to do is patch it and patch it and patch it then it makes it look like you are doing a shoddy job love you videos be safe have a great day Sam
I didn't know dirt could wear out metal like that. Learning stuff on this channel all the time
What do you think sandpaper is made from?
@@carl4043 Silicon carbide.
@@moki123g well yeah now it is
Then you'd really be amazed if you saw what Frozen dirt would do. Doesn't get more abrasive than that
Can you imagine the pressure that ripper has on it once it deep in the ground an rocks . It’s unbelievable that pulling power of a D10 , literally grinding off 15:09 metal in slow motion !!!
Not sure if the customers do it or not and especially in this case...but sending photos of what is at hand will help and help you in making informed decisions what to bring with to site
I always ask for pictures. Sometimes I get them sometimes I don’t.
@@OFW Add a "no picture provided" surcharge. State it up front, bet you get pictures every single time. My buddy will not even bother going out to jobs that refuse to send a picture, to him, it is not worth his time to load extra plate "just in case" and burn even more fuel. Or worse case, get to the job and have to go back to the shop, then back to the job to finish. I didn't get it at first but I see it now, though it depends on if you are flush with work and can tell people to fuck off.
Absolutely spot on...photos/videos in today's era is critical...30yrs ago it was acceptable...not anymore. For me as a plumber i insist on videos. Most of the times i fix the problem over the phone especially when there are blocked drains. Explain the abled doer to do A-B-C and Bob's your uncle. Saved me to quote my call out and labor only to tell me its too much.
@@canniballectus2560 that is a good idea. But honestly I’m on the clock from when I leave my driveway to when I get back and if I have to drive back to the shop I’m still making the same money as sweating my ass off in the dirt. But it can be frustrating like on this dozer where the drive time was 2 hours each way.
Fun video! People are counting on that dozer and you got it back in action.
i stopped taking jobs from owners like this that just beat their equipment without proper maintenance and just expect bandaids to last forever because when that bandaid breaks and they always do they always point the finger at you. great job tho keep it up!
It’s weird because this is a really good customer of mine and they usually do it the correct way the first time.
It's tuff to make chicken soup out of chicken shit. I enjoy your vids man. Thanks
Lot of stress points in that shank now....might survice in deep soil ripping as impact is low
That ripper is good as new. Send it!
Weld a bar across the other end of the pin as well. Double protection from wanting to come out
Back great work being done 👍's up
It would be nice to have that in a shop. To add about 3/8" of weld to the front, then mill off about the same from the rear and weld 2" wide beveled strips to the front to get it closer to flat, then put a roughly 1/2"-3/4" plate on each side with alot of 2" plug welds or just make a new one! And make a wear plate, 3/8" plate over the front with a 2" round bar welded to the front, with hard facing along the sides, run beads from top to bottom. On the front round bar, at the top skip a inch on each side add another bead top to bottom, skip about a half inch. Add another bead, maybe weld a cross hatch pattern between beads have recessed hole to bolt this piece on, a couple 3/8" holes from back to front may work, a 3/8" hole in a 4" thick bar isn't going to weaken it much, have maybe 4 long 3/8 grade 8 bolts should hold on the u shaped cover .
3/8" thick maybe 1/2" with welds, and the front edge with the holes drilled and tapped. Bring 2-3/8" to 2-1/2" thick with the threads being only , 1/2" deep to prevent dirt from damaging threads after wear, hopefully the hard facing would slow the wear, having the front nearly cover with hard facing.. maybe making the front wider and harder it can take the wear from the other 80%of the structure, the design can use improvement
Nice rig
613👍's up OFW thanks for sharing your time with us all
Can you please share your welding setup. Brand, model of flux core, settings please? I'm new to field repairs via flux core as we're usually held to 7018 5/32 in our sand and gravel pits. Much appreciated!
machine makes probably 600 an hour operator about 30 an hour owner drives an 80 k pickup wife has a new car every year , and band aids lol , as always great WORK
Oh my god that truck!!!😍😍
Will that ripper be able to retract? You are building up the front edge out beyond its original position. The last adjustment hole is below your addition.
It only needs to go up one hole.
It won’t be an issue for long. That mild steel will be gone in a week.
@@LoBeau53 good thing it’s not mild steel.
Hey you gave us a great iMessage again do you use a special grinder to accept the 3m cubitron disk with the rubber backer thanks for the info
I just use the pad that 3m recommends
Wow......Now that's doing some ripping!!! Did ya notice how many hours is on that machine? My guess is a path to the moon & back?
Man that was a patch job. It will do the trick for a while. Good job
Good show!
Good job! You are a wizard. But, time for a new ripper.
What if u use a bar from one pin with a bend to clear the belly then directly over to the other pin Wedge it in there and weld ?
Can you put some hard surfacing rod on the front of the ripper?
Ya, but in this situation stacking AR plate seems to be the best choice. For budget and time.
Awesome job
That vertical plate on the blade is gonna last a good 10 mins, or the first stone it hits. lol
Well we shall see, I will do an update video the next time I’m around that machine.
Am guessing your alot cheaper then buying a new or 2nd hand ripper shank just curious.
I notice you use a suitcase a lot. I have a 12VS I’m trying to run on a trailblazer 325. I can’t seem to get it set up correctly to make a decent weld with self shielded flux core. Need to do a lot of build up on a shear. Typically use 7018 but trying to speed it up with wire. Any recommendations for settings and/wire from anyone would
Be appreciated!
On my 12vs I run 25v and 150 ipm or 27v and 250ipm 1/16” dual shield Lincoln 71a75. Hope this helps.
How old is your 12 VS? Some of the earliest ones out had wire feed issues because of the acute angle the wire came off the spool into the drive. They would quickly wear a groove in the guide tube and you could drive yourself bonkers changing tips an liners to no end. Once you have them dialled in , they will run dual shield like butter on toast. Ones yours have a switch to change between CC and CV? You will want to match that with the setting on your welder.
I donno shizit about heavy equipment....but mind if I ask...why wouldn't they want to have the sharp edge on the ripper?
It will naturally wear out to a sharp edge.
Thanks for sharing
Greg, you know you job. You can name your Price.
Wow! What a repair!! Keep up the good work! 👍👌
What’s the cost savings by doing that? Great work!!! Your man hours are worth a decent amount. Within reason, what is considered a good amount of time before it breaks again? I know it’s job dependent.
Nice work
What are you using for wire ? And what welder are you running?
Just out of curiosity how much would Caterpillar get for a new “cutter blade”? I assume it’s substantially less expensive to have you patch a repair.
Maybe a stupid question, but ... the OEM pin has a pin retainer arm. It broke off and the pin keeps backing out. Why not just replace the pin with a new OEM pin and retainer arm? Short of that, why not fix the broken retainer arm so that it works as designed? Thanks. (I've been running and fixing heavy equipment for 40 years)
Because the bores the pin goes into are all wore out and have a bunch of slop. A new pin would do nothing and the retainer arm would probably break right off. The ripper assembly needs to be tore apart and line bored. But it appears my customer doesn’t want to do that just yet.
@@OFW Makes sense. Thanks for reply
Be interesting to know how you handle your laundry. Your job involves a lot of dirt, grease, and sweat. Do you have a change room before coming into the house?
The wife takes care of it. Our GE washer has no issues with it. I take my boots off in the garage and change right when I get into the house.
Tell the operator to MAINTAIN his machine!!
You are very wonderful man and your work is professional...Can I work for you??
Sir, I am serious about my request to work for you if you agree
Why didn't you hard face that flat bar on the ripper?
Because the bar is AR plate
@@OFW Oh I c, no reason to do some more? Your there why not?
@@chriss1728 the reason I use AR plate is so I don’t need to hard face
The owner of this machine ain't too smart what he's getting you to do ain't even Band-Aids. But I get it you do what you're told to do all you can do is tell them hey I think we need to do this instead
They could have parked it in a little bit better spot to work on!?
Actually this spot wasn’t too bad.
I thought those rippers are supposed to be that shape for cutting through roots
Doing a good job
You ever have issues not unhooking battery cables on equipment when welding on it?
I have never had a issue with that.
Is that ripper made of T2 tool steel for wear resistance? Will your regular cold rolled flat stock last under those conditions? Or is this another completely viable situation where you just have to get them back up and running? Some 7018 on the wear points might help it last longer since it's tougher than regular cold rolled steel.
I did not use regular steel. It was AR 400 and made for situations like this.
@@OFW I worked as a Maintenance Technician for over 37 years, before I retired, at a plastic injection molding plant that served the home exterior products industry. I know there are times when you just have to get something going and use what you have available.
That's a perfectly viable part of maintenance, though certainly not preferred, so long as there is a plan in play for a more permanent solution. (There really are no permanent solutions when it comes to equipment as entropy happens - nothing lasts forever).
Also, I'll have to admit my ignorance about AR 400 steel. I've never used it as T2 was our go-to for wear resistance in our facility.
@@stevelux9854 I have always thought of T-1 and T-2 steel to be more structural and AR to be more stiff and brittle.
@@OFW I was first introduced to T2 as it was used in injection molding to increase wear resistance. An ingredient added to plastics, specifically polypropylene, to add strength is calcium, which abraids the steel of the mold under the required 10,000 psi pressure during injection. Other, more specialized steels like Xalloy are used for the barrels and mixing screws.
Because of my experience with T2 I often specified it when needed for its wear resistance properties. We kind of pick things up from those that were the older dogs in the business; when we were the young pup. When we find things that have been working we tend to stick with them.
Love to be able to weld like this! Is there anything you can’t repair? Brill camera work too.☘️👍
Someone needs to find the grease zerks on the pin and all the rest of them and add some grease! Sad to take a nice dozer like that and run it into the ground! A little preventative maintenance would have stopped all of that.
what wire are you using?
Lincoln 71a75
How long did the pin last?
Like 2 weeks
Strange customer you have there. They won't be satisfied until you build an entire machine out of welding wire.
I see a ripper tip nose but damn they wore the shit outta that without a shin guard. I don’t even see pin holes anymore. Why? It’s not hard for them to just put a new one on.
look at those newer tracks on both side those had to be 20k a side alone
Maintenance, If they all maintained there equipment properly you’d be out of work, nice job.
No hardfacing...?
That’s the point of the AR plate to avoid the time of hard facing
@@OFW It is tough enough.?...!!!!!
Why are your welds so scabby?
I have no doubt you did the best with the situation given to you.....but I just don’t see that ripper holding together at all.
It’s been 2 weeks with no issues.
I'm curious to see how it holds up. I thought cutting out and welding in one giant plate would have been better, but maybe not a fix that could be made by one man in the field. It's amazing how much wear occurred.
@@andr0373 I will do an update video the next time I am around that machine.
@@OFW awesome. Fun to see you welding all this huge stuff, keep the vids coming for us amateur welders.
They still used it even though the plate were missing ...... they did not care at all about maintenance.
Take the ripper shanks off weld with stick rods use T 1 steel ,, OR PUT NEW RIPPER COLLAR BACK ON
You could do it that way but it would take longer and the T1 will wear out faster.
Needed to use some old cutting edge steel 🧐
This didn't happen in 5 minutes. The operator either never looked or never cared about the state of the ripping shank. I know from another totally unrelated video that these shanks cost plenty of money and need constant observation to keep the shank in operational order.
Look at what dirt perfect did to make their 5 foot tile plow. They basically made a triangle.
I saw that. I almost did that but didn’t have enough material with me.
I’ll be the first to admit I’m wrong if you show us another video of it in the future.
Job security for sure .........
Good work i dont want to sound rude but pleas can you make a service truck
Yeah oh my God really. I cant believe they just don’t replace the ripper arm. And even if unavailable why did hey wait sos long to patch her up, guess they never thought of hardfacing.
Nice work polishing a t##d. Ripper has been seriously abused by neglect of service.
Thank you Sir for your reply
I like that Old Ripper that'd be a great thing to cut down and make into a large knife 🔪🗡️.
Holy shit batman that's wore the fuck out nice repair bud. And I have to ask what dumbass turns a dozer with the ripper in the ground. Never really see them bent like that until some turns just a little bit. Nice work bud.