I’m retired from an entirely unrelated business, but I had two customers like this owner who insisted on bandaids until things broke to where nobody could fix them. They funded my retirement plan in a handsome way for almost a decade, and they kept calling even after I retired. Seems nobody else needed their money bad enough to what I did for so long. Ironically, they knew what my hourly rate was, and paid it for bandaids when they could have saved big bucks by simply letting me replace their broken crap. At the end of the day I would do anything they wanted as long as it didn’t violate codes or cause safety issues. Money is money!
Capital eschews no profit, or very small profit, just as Nature was formerly said to abhor a vacuum. With adequate profit, capital is very bold. A certain 10 per cent. will ensure its employment anywhere; 20 per cent. certain will produce eagerness; 50 per cent., positive audacity; 100 per cent. will make it ready to trample on all human laws; 300 per cent., and there is not a crime at which it will scruple, nor a risk it will not run, even to the chance of its owner being hanged. If turbulence and strife will bring a profit, it will freely encourage both.
I worked for 34 years in a completely unrelated field. What I find interesting is how much creativity you demonstrate in fabricating a fix for each situation, especially given the constraints placed on you by the owner (usually "get it done fast"). Great work!
You saved this D10 owner about $4500± By rebuilding that ripper shank. I’ve never seen a shank so warn down either. I would have approached repairing it quite differently, but after watching your repair, it’s clearly the best way. I learn something every time I watch you videos. Keep them coming.
Not really. I'd price the job at well over a grand, meaning they saved maybe $3500 for a product that will wear out faster than just buying the new part and replacing it. It's their money to waste so if they want to waste it, that's their choice,.
@@ravenbarsrepairs5594 I don't know what hourly rates are in this biz, for the equipment and skill and overhead and travel, my naive guess would be $1800+/day ($200+/hr). Is that about right?
@@OFW i could only imagine what your thoughts were for them pins.. that ripper shank is a nightmare! Holy hell man that looked like a brutal task all around lol nice repair of a bandaid though, as a fellow welder also it shows you absolutely tried
Very nice work. Sadly the D10 has so much power, nothing will last very long. The other viewer are correct by saying, a new ripper shank with a shin guard would be the ticket. Then what would we do for a living….LOL. Hope the repair lasts a while under the extreme conditions.
What an amazing repair. I looked at some original D10 rippers and understand what "time to replace" means. I'm sure you saved the owners a bundle of money, but proper maintenance certainly has its advantages. Thanks for the excellent video with discussion of your thinking about the repair. I really appreciate your videos.
I read comments asking why things are not getting done right, what the customer ask for is what the customer gets. When the bill gets paid all the time that is all that matters in a long run.
Patching up that broken Pin, makes me think of the Saying ""That's like putting a $500.00 suit on a Pig, it's still a Pig but it's a really good looking Pig. You dressed that Pig up as well as humanly possible, great job !!!
On the pin retainer. A piece of channel extended past to two bolts . And a bolt and 2 nuts beyond that so the front keeps the pin from coming out without restricting wobble in the bores. A piece of leaf spring would do it too. With a spreader plate . If the spring is extended and touching the flange. The bolts would be in tension instead of shear.
Just copying the other side where the plate sticks under the 2-bolt clamp...when it still turns and rips off, there's someting wrong with the other side of the pin that makes it spinning... The ripper tooth fixing looked really like from Mad Max, but will do the job, nice! Thx for the vid! 🤣👍👍👍
That is a ingenious way to fix that ripper. I am surprised they don't have that thing hard surfaced to let that wear off instead of the blade. Nice fix though. Frustrating to have to do that in the field. I am sure over time your cost is as much as fixing it right the first time. Keep up the great content.
Greg, 'we don't need no stinking broken welds'......ya done did what ya thought would get them going.....hate when another guy comes and fools with my work....if I screwed it up, let me repair it......sorry for your loss there buddy....cheers from Orlando, Florida, Paul
@@MFKR696 Thank you for your kind comments. As far as getting hired back, that is no worry, as I work for free, the only thing I do not like about the job, is the Striped Coveralls I have to wear and the pesky guy with the Mirrored Sunglasses.....Cheers
You didn't sound yo enthused on working on that an I can't blame you as you had already worked on it once before and as you stated it definitely needed to be torn down an repaired ! Good job with what you had to work with ! 👍👍
Can you imagine the pressure that ripper has on it once it deep in the ground an rocks . It’s unbelievable that pulling power of a D10 , literally grinding off 15:09 metal in slow motion !!!
Maintenance, maintenance, and more maintenance it what's needed for this machine!!!!!! If it's taken care of it will take care of you!!!! Once again...........Bad A.. field work again. Can't wait for the next.
I know that it's aggravates you when you cannot fix something right when they all they want to do is patch it and patch it and patch it then it makes it look like you are doing a shoddy job love you videos be safe have a great day Sam
i stopped taking jobs from owners like this that just beat their equipment without proper maintenance and just expect bandaids to last forever because when that bandaid breaks and they always do they always point the finger at you. great job tho keep it up!
I would have told that good old boy to replace that one shank. But that's just me I know there expensive but in the long run he might be better off.... But your welding looks amazing. I would love a update on this machine if you could..
It would be nice to have that in a shop. To add about 3/8" of weld to the front, then mill off about the same from the rear and weld 2" wide beveled strips to the front to get it closer to flat, then put a roughly 1/2"-3/4" plate on each side with alot of 2" plug welds or just make a new one! And make a wear plate, 3/8" plate over the front with a 2" round bar welded to the front, with hard facing along the sides, run beads from top to bottom. On the front round bar, at the top skip a inch on each side add another bead top to bottom, skip about a half inch. Add another bead, maybe weld a cross hatch pattern between beads have recessed hole to bolt this piece on, a couple 3/8" holes from back to front may work, a 3/8" hole in a 4" thick bar isn't going to weaken it much, have maybe 4 long 3/8 grade 8 bolts should hold on the u shaped cover . 3/8" thick maybe 1/2" with welds, and the front edge with the holes drilled and tapped. Bring 2-3/8" to 2-1/2" thick with the threads being only , 1/2" deep to prevent dirt from damaging threads after wear, hopefully the hard facing would slow the wear, having the front nearly cover with hard facing.. maybe making the front wider and harder it can take the wear from the other 80%of the structure, the design can use improvement
machine makes probably 600 an hour operator about 30 an hour owner drives an 80 k pickup wife has a new car every year , and band aids lol , as always great WORK
Can you please share your welding setup. Brand, model of flux core, settings please? I'm new to field repairs via flux core as we're usually held to 7018 5/32 in our sand and gravel pits. Much appreciated!
What’s the cost savings by doing that? Great work!!! Your man hours are worth a decent amount. Within reason, what is considered a good amount of time before it breaks again? I know it’s job dependent.
Not sure if the customers do it or not and especially in this case...but sending photos of what is at hand will help and help you in making informed decisions what to bring with to site
@@OFW Add a "no picture provided" surcharge. State it up front, bet you get pictures every single time. My buddy will not even bother going out to jobs that refuse to send a picture, to him, it is not worth his time to load extra plate "just in case" and burn even more fuel. Or worse case, get to the job and have to go back to the shop, then back to the job to finish. I didn't get it at first but I see it now, though it depends on if you are flush with work and can tell people to fuck off.
Absolutely spot on...photos/videos in today's era is critical...30yrs ago it was acceptable...not anymore. For me as a plumber i insist on videos. Most of the times i fix the problem over the phone especially when there are blocked drains. Explain the abled doer to do A-B-C and Bob's your uncle. Saved me to quote my call out and labor only to tell me its too much.
@@canniballectus2560 that is a good idea. But honestly I’m on the clock from when I leave my driveway to when I get back and if I have to drive back to the shop I’m still making the same money as sweating my ass off in the dirt. But it can be frustrating like on this dozer where the drive time was 2 hours each way.
Will that ripper be able to retract? You are building up the front edge out beyond its original position. The last adjustment hole is below your addition.
Is that ripper made of T2 tool steel for wear resistance? Will your regular cold rolled flat stock last under those conditions? Or is this another completely viable situation where you just have to get them back up and running? Some 7018 on the wear points might help it last longer since it's tougher than regular cold rolled steel.
@@OFW I worked as a Maintenance Technician for over 37 years, before I retired, at a plastic injection molding plant that served the home exterior products industry. I know there are times when you just have to get something going and use what you have available. That's a perfectly viable part of maintenance, though certainly not preferred, so long as there is a plan in play for a more permanent solution. (There really are no permanent solutions when it comes to equipment as entropy happens - nothing lasts forever). Also, I'll have to admit my ignorance about AR 400 steel. I've never used it as T2 was our go-to for wear resistance in our facility.
@@OFW I was first introduced to T2 as it was used in injection molding to increase wear resistance. An ingredient added to plastics, specifically polypropylene, to add strength is calcium, which abraids the steel of the mold under the required 10,000 psi pressure during injection. Other, more specialized steels like Xalloy are used for the barrels and mixing screws. Because of my experience with T2 I often specified it when needed for its wear resistance properties. We kind of pick things up from those that were the older dogs in the business; when we were the young pup. When we find things that have been working we tend to stick with them.
Maybe a stupid question, but ... the OEM pin has a pin retainer arm. It broke off and the pin keeps backing out. Why not just replace the pin with a new OEM pin and retainer arm? Short of that, why not fix the broken retainer arm so that it works as designed? Thanks. (I've been running and fixing heavy equipment for 40 years)
Because the bores the pin goes into are all wore out and have a bunch of slop. A new pin would do nothing and the retainer arm would probably break right off. The ripper assembly needs to be tore apart and line bored. But it appears my customer doesn’t want to do that just yet.
I notice you use a suitcase a lot. I have a 12VS I’m trying to run on a trailblazer 325. I can’t seem to get it set up correctly to make a decent weld with self shielded flux core. Need to do a lot of build up on a shear. Typically use 7018 but trying to speed it up with wire. Any recommendations for settings and/wire from anyone would Be appreciated!
How old is your 12 VS? Some of the earliest ones out had wire feed issues because of the acute angle the wire came off the spool into the drive. They would quickly wear a groove in the guide tube and you could drive yourself bonkers changing tips an liners to no end. Once you have them dialled in , they will run dual shield like butter on toast. Ones yours have a switch to change between CC and CV? You will want to match that with the setting on your welder.
Be interesting to know how you handle your laundry. Your job involves a lot of dirt, grease, and sweat. Do you have a change room before coming into the house?
I see a ripper tip nose but damn they wore the shit outta that without a shin guard. I don’t even see pin holes anymore. Why? It’s not hard for them to just put a new one on.
Someone needs to find the grease zerks on the pin and all the rest of them and add some grease! Sad to take a nice dozer like that and run it into the ground! A little preventative maintenance would have stopped all of that.
The owner of this machine ain't too smart what he's getting you to do ain't even Band-Aids. But I get it you do what you're told to do all you can do is tell them hey I think we need to do this instead
Holy shit batman that's wore the fuck out nice repair bud. And I have to ask what dumbass turns a dozer with the ripper in the ground. Never really see them bent like that until some turns just a little bit. Nice work bud.
Ripper Shank worn out from 4 inches (?) plus the Shin Guard, to a sharp edge thin as a knife, on less than 5 months... amazing! For sure they don't understand what "too worn out" means or care about "maintenance"... if they let the Shin Guard to get lost. Interesting way to re-build the thickness of the blade, on the field... but if it was me, I would have advised the client to do a replacement of the blade instead of a repair at field... on the way that CCE Australia did (when the tip broke): to cut all the Ripper Shank length that was worn out, and to weld a new 4 inches solid plate shaped as the blade from factory... on the same way as if it was tore apart on any point. About the Pin Retainer, I would have gouged the triangular plate on it, which is shorter (or has the tip broken), and replace it with a new triangular plate to anchor the Pin on the "socket" (the one with screws), as it was intended on the factory design... on pair with the other side, where it's triangular plate could be anchored on the socket as default (as shown on the previous video). If you feel like it, comment to me what you think about this... for the next time that it would need a repair. Regards from Spain.
The problem is the customer just wants now now now and cheap cheap cheap instead of having it down for a bit to do it once right they'd rather just pay to continually bandaid it to keep it running paying much more in the long run then to have it down for a bit to have it done right and he done with it
Don't forget in Australia they're also a lot stricter about machines and pollution where cee is doing stuff so it can be a lil easier to get the customer to do it right to avoid big fines instead of bandaids vs other places where they can get away with more so they want fast and cheap as long as it keeps running
@@umahunter Yep, it's all true. We can't admire a proper job done by On Fire Welding, if the customer is who sais how you have to do your job... and always calls you for: "stick a lot of scrap here, and place a bunch of weld there... I will call you again when we need more scrap". If there's someone able to do what they want, nobody could say to them: "This is how it has to be done, take it or don't call me ever again".
The problem is the holes the pin go into are extremely wore out and if you fixed the triangle piece back to factory spec it would break off right away. The entire Ripper shank assembly needs to be tore apart and line bored.
@@OFW The whole fleet needs urgent surgery, not only that D10... let's hope that that client of yours take it serious and he let you fix each part at your shop.
Is a good customer the one that constantly break things and always needs repairs? Or is the worst customer the one that constantly calls your for cheap repairs to always have something to break? Being able to say "Fuck Off" to a customer, it's priceless. --MasterCard
Yeah oh my God really. I cant believe they just don’t replace the ripper arm. And even if unavailable why did hey wait sos long to patch her up, guess they never thought of hardfacing.
I’m retired from an entirely unrelated business, but I had two customers like this owner who insisted on bandaids until things broke to where nobody could fix them. They funded my retirement plan in a handsome way for almost a decade, and they kept calling even after I retired. Seems nobody else needed their money bad enough to what I did for so long. Ironically, they knew what my hourly rate was, and paid it for bandaids when they could have saved big bucks by simply letting me replace their broken crap. At the end of the day I would do anything they wanted as long as it didn’t violate codes or cause safety issues. Money is money!
Capital eschews no profit, or very small profit, just as Nature was formerly said to abhor a vacuum. With adequate profit, capital is very bold. A certain 10 per cent. will ensure its employment anywhere; 20 per cent. certain will produce eagerness; 50 per cent., positive audacity; 100 per cent. will make it ready to trample on all human laws; 300 per cent., and there is not a crime at which it will scruple, nor a risk it will not run, even to the chance of its owner being hanged. If turbulence and strife will bring a profit, it will freely encourage both.
THATS WHAT Im talking and sharing in the post above with this welder....WELL DONE, JOE
Cheapskates pay twice
I worked for 34 years in a completely unrelated field. What I find interesting is how much creativity you demonstrate in fabricating a fix for each situation, especially given the constraints placed on you by the owner (usually "get it done fast"). Great work!
You saved this D10 owner about $4500± By rebuilding that ripper shank. I’ve never seen a shank so warn down either. I would have approached repairing it quite differently, but after watching your repair, it’s clearly the best way. I learn something every time I watch you videos. Keep them coming.
Not really. I'd price the job at well over a grand, meaning they saved maybe $3500 for a product that will wear out faster than just buying the new part and replacing it. It's their money to waste so if they want to waste it, that's their choice,.
@@ravenbarsrepairs5594 I don't know what hourly rates are in this biz, for the equipment and skill and overhead and travel, my naive guess would be $1800+/day ($200+/hr). Is that about right?
Between you and IC Wield you guys get the most crappiest jobs but your artist and do great work ! That is why i like watching you both !
Thank you. I like to think I do some work that most others turn down.
@@OFW I think you are right Greg.....
I agree Issac gets some things that are real cans of worms. Even Kurtis of CEE does some real severe rebuilds , customers just won’t give up.
@@OFW i could only imagine what your thoughts were for them pins.. that ripper shank is a nightmare! Holy hell man that looked like a brutal task all around lol nice repair of a bandaid though, as a fellow welder also it shows you absolutely tried
@@dirtfarmer7472 With the extreme shortage of replacement parts and supplies, Kurtis is hitting plans b, c & d a lot more often.
What part of "worn out" do these people not understand? A lack of a shin guard caused this and even T-1 won't solve it.
AR 400 would help
That's my question too, why do they keep saying "it's wore out"? Or is broke out, or the ground is froze, etc.
That ripper shank ended up like some kind of art piece.
Very nice work. Sadly the D10 has so much power, nothing will last very long. The other viewer are correct by saying, a new ripper shank with a shin guard would be the ticket. Then what would we do for a living….LOL. Hope the repair lasts a while under the extreme conditions.
What an amazing repair. I looked at some original D10 rippers and understand what "time to replace" means. I'm sure you saved the owners a bundle of money, but proper maintenance certainly has its advantages. Thanks for the excellent video with discussion of your thinking about the repair. I really appreciate your videos.
I read comments asking why things are not getting done right, what the customer ask for is what the customer gets. When the bill gets paid all the time that is all that matters in a long run.
Brings back memories! Lol! Good job! Kent
you are a great craftsman, show us that ripper again after some time, this is the most different repair I have seen you do, cheers
Patching up that broken Pin, makes me think of the Saying ""That's like putting a $500.00 suit on a Pig, it's still a Pig but it's a really good looking Pig. You dressed that Pig up as well as humanly possible, great job !!!
On the pin retainer. A piece of channel extended past to two bolts . And a bolt and 2 nuts beyond that so the front keeps the pin from coming out without restricting wobble in the bores.
A piece of leaf spring would do it too. With a spreader plate . If the spring is extended and touching the flange. The bolts would be in tension instead of shear.
Just copying the other side where the plate sticks under the 2-bolt clamp...when it still turns and rips off, there's someting wrong with the other side of the pin that makes it spinning...
The ripper tooth fixing looked really like from Mad Max, but will do the job, nice!
Thx for the vid!
🤣👍👍👍
Your a really patient guy, hope your customer threats you well.
That is a ingenious way to fix that ripper. I am surprised they don't have that thing hard surfaced to let that wear off instead of the blade. Nice fix though. Frustrating to have to do that in the field. I am sure over time your cost is as much as fixing it right the first time. Keep up the great content.
Never got time to do it right but got all day to do it twice. Nice work Brother "making cookies out of dog shot" still pays the bills.
Greg, 'we don't need no stinking broken welds'......ya done did what ya thought would get them going.....hate when another guy comes and fools with my work....if I screwed it up, let me repair it......sorry for your loss there buddy....cheers from Orlando, Florida, Paul
@@MFKR696 Thank you for your kind comments. As far as getting hired back, that is no worry, as I work for free, the only thing I do not like about the job, is the Striped Coveralls I have to wear and the pesky guy with the Mirrored Sunglasses.....Cheers
You didn't sound yo enthused on working on that an I can't blame you as you had already worked on it once before and as you stated it definitely needed to be torn down an repaired ! Good job with what you had to work with ! 👍👍
Preventative maintenance some do some don’t not easy to working on this gear thanks for sharing 🦘👍
Hey man like the vids. Would love to see a truck tour. That looks like one nice rig.
When they pay, they say (I guess). Thanks for bringing us along!
I didn't know dirt could wear out metal like that. Learning stuff on this channel all the time
What do you think sandpaper is made from?
@@carl4043 Silicon carbide.
@@moki123g well yeah now it is
Then you'd really be amazed if you saw what Frozen dirt would do. Doesn't get more abrasive than that
Can you imagine the pressure that ripper has on it once it deep in the ground an rocks . It’s unbelievable that pulling power of a D10 , literally grinding off 15:09 metal in slow motion !!!
have service truck will travel... they won't tear into it , your saving them thousands of dollars.. and doing a mighty fine job every time.. enjoyed
Beautiful work sir ! shame they don’t fix it the right way but you can only do what they want you to ! keep up the great videos and great work👍🏼🫡🤩
Maintenance, maintenance, and more maintenance it what's needed for this machine!!!!!! If it's taken care of it will take care of you!!!! Once again...........Bad A.. field work again. Can't wait for the next.
Tough tough day, and you handled it like a real pro
I know that it's aggravates you when you cannot fix something right when they all they want to do is patch it and patch it and patch it then it makes it look like you are doing a shoddy job love you videos be safe have a great day Sam
Fun video! People are counting on that dozer and you got it back in action.
i stopped taking jobs from owners like this that just beat their equipment without proper maintenance and just expect bandaids to last forever because when that bandaid breaks and they always do they always point the finger at you. great job tho keep it up!
It’s weird because this is a really good customer of mine and they usually do it the correct way the first time.
Back great work being done 👍's up
Oh my god that truck!!!😍😍
That ripper is good as new. Send it!
I would have told that good old boy to replace that one shank. But that's just me I know there expensive but in the long run he might be better off.... But your welding looks amazing. I would love a update on this machine if you could..
I believe this is your first video I watched. I think I have watched forty since. Thanks for the fun times. 😊 Steve
It's tuff to make chicken soup out of chicken shit. I enjoy your vids man. Thanks
Thanks for sharing
Good show!
I do not understand how that ripper blade gets sharpened , all the points and blades on the farm stuff iv worked on go round !
Lot of stress points in that shank now....might survice in deep soil ripping as impact is low
It would be nice to have that in a shop. To add about 3/8" of weld to the front, then mill off about the same from the rear and weld 2" wide beveled strips to the front to get it closer to flat, then put a roughly 1/2"-3/4" plate on each side with alot of 2" plug welds or just make a new one! And make a wear plate, 3/8" plate over the front with a 2" round bar welded to the front, with hard facing along the sides, run beads from top to bottom. On the front round bar, at the top skip a inch on each side add another bead top to bottom, skip about a half inch. Add another bead, maybe weld a cross hatch pattern between beads have recessed hole to bolt this piece on, a couple 3/8" holes from back to front may work, a 3/8" hole in a 4" thick bar isn't going to weaken it much, have maybe 4 long 3/8 grade 8 bolts should hold on the u shaped cover .
3/8" thick maybe 1/2" with welds, and the front edge with the holes drilled and tapped. Bring 2-3/8" to 2-1/2" thick with the threads being only , 1/2" deep to prevent dirt from damaging threads after wear, hopefully the hard facing would slow the wear, having the front nearly cover with hard facing.. maybe making the front wider and harder it can take the wear from the other 80%of the structure, the design can use improvement
machine makes probably 600 an hour operator about 30 an hour owner drives an 80 k pickup wife has a new car every year , and band aids lol , as always great WORK
Man that was a patch job. It will do the trick for a while. Good job
Good job! You are a wizard. But, time for a new ripper.
Weld a bar across the other end of the pin as well. Double protection from wanting to come out
Nice rig
Awesome job
613👍's up OFW thanks for sharing your time with us all
Wow......Now that's doing some ripping!!! Did ya notice how many hours is on that machine? My guess is a path to the moon & back?
Would love to see this Shank in a month or so. Curious as to how much wear happens to it.
without a shank protector not very long
Yes it’ll be gone quickly but the customer is always right, even when he is wrong.
Wow! What a repair!! Keep up the good work! 👍👌
Love to be able to weld like this! Is there anything you can’t repair? Brill camera work too.☘️👍
Greg, you know you job. You can name your Price.
Can you please share your welding setup. Brand, model of flux core, settings please? I'm new to field repairs via flux core as we're usually held to 7018 5/32 in our sand and gravel pits. Much appreciated!
What’s the cost savings by doing that? Great work!!! Your man hours are worth a decent amount. Within reason, what is considered a good amount of time before it breaks again? I know it’s job dependent.
What are you using for wire ? And what welder are you running?
Not sure if the customers do it or not and especially in this case...but sending photos of what is at hand will help and help you in making informed decisions what to bring with to site
I always ask for pictures. Sometimes I get them sometimes I don’t.
@@OFW Add a "no picture provided" surcharge. State it up front, bet you get pictures every single time. My buddy will not even bother going out to jobs that refuse to send a picture, to him, it is not worth his time to load extra plate "just in case" and burn even more fuel. Or worse case, get to the job and have to go back to the shop, then back to the job to finish. I didn't get it at first but I see it now, though it depends on if you are flush with work and can tell people to fuck off.
Absolutely spot on...photos/videos in today's era is critical...30yrs ago it was acceptable...not anymore. For me as a plumber i insist on videos. Most of the times i fix the problem over the phone especially when there are blocked drains. Explain the abled doer to do A-B-C and Bob's your uncle. Saved me to quote my call out and labor only to tell me its too much.
@@canniballectus2560 that is a good idea. But honestly I’m on the clock from when I leave my driveway to when I get back and if I have to drive back to the shop I’m still making the same money as sweating my ass off in the dirt. But it can be frustrating like on this dozer where the drive time was 2 hours each way.
Doing a good job
Just out of curiosity how much would Caterpillar get for a new “cutter blade”? I assume it’s substantially less expensive to have you patch a repair.
Nice work
What if u use a bar from one pin with a bend to clear the belly then directly over to the other pin Wedge it in there and weld ?
Will that ripper be able to retract? You are building up the front edge out beyond its original position. The last adjustment hole is below your addition.
It only needs to go up one hole.
It won’t be an issue for long. That mild steel will be gone in a week.
@@LoBeau53 good thing it’s not mild steel.
Am guessing your alot cheaper then buying a new or 2nd hand ripper shank just curious.
Thank you Sir for your reply
Is that ripper made of T2 tool steel for wear resistance? Will your regular cold rolled flat stock last under those conditions? Or is this another completely viable situation where you just have to get them back up and running? Some 7018 on the wear points might help it last longer since it's tougher than regular cold rolled steel.
I did not use regular steel. It was AR 400 and made for situations like this.
@@OFW I worked as a Maintenance Technician for over 37 years, before I retired, at a plastic injection molding plant that served the home exterior products industry. I know there are times when you just have to get something going and use what you have available.
That's a perfectly viable part of maintenance, though certainly not preferred, so long as there is a plan in play for a more permanent solution. (There really are no permanent solutions when it comes to equipment as entropy happens - nothing lasts forever).
Also, I'll have to admit my ignorance about AR 400 steel. I've never used it as T2 was our go-to for wear resistance in our facility.
@@stevelux9854 I have always thought of T-1 and T-2 steel to be more structural and AR to be more stiff and brittle.
@@OFW I was first introduced to T2 as it was used in injection molding to increase wear resistance. An ingredient added to plastics, specifically polypropylene, to add strength is calcium, which abraids the steel of the mold under the required 10,000 psi pressure during injection. Other, more specialized steels like Xalloy are used for the barrels and mixing screws.
Because of my experience with T2 I often specified it when needed for its wear resistance properties. We kind of pick things up from those that were the older dogs in the business; when we were the young pup. When we find things that have been working we tend to stick with them.
Hey you gave us a great iMessage again do you use a special grinder to accept the 3m cubitron disk with the rubber backer thanks for the info
I just use the pad that 3m recommends
Strange customer you have there. They won't be satisfied until you build an entire machine out of welding wire.
Maybe a stupid question, but ... the OEM pin has a pin retainer arm. It broke off and the pin keeps backing out. Why not just replace the pin with a new OEM pin and retainer arm? Short of that, why not fix the broken retainer arm so that it works as designed? Thanks. (I've been running and fixing heavy equipment for 40 years)
Because the bores the pin goes into are all wore out and have a bunch of slop. A new pin would do nothing and the retainer arm would probably break right off. The ripper assembly needs to be tore apart and line bored. But it appears my customer doesn’t want to do that just yet.
@@OFW Makes sense. Thanks for reply
I notice you use a suitcase a lot. I have a 12VS I’m trying to run on a trailblazer 325. I can’t seem to get it set up correctly to make a decent weld with self shielded flux core. Need to do a lot of build up on a shear. Typically use 7018 but trying to speed it up with wire. Any recommendations for settings and/wire from anyone would
Be appreciated!
On my 12vs I run 25v and 150 ipm or 27v and 250ipm 1/16” dual shield Lincoln 71a75. Hope this helps.
How old is your 12 VS? Some of the earliest ones out had wire feed issues because of the acute angle the wire came off the spool into the drive. They would quickly wear a groove in the guide tube and you could drive yourself bonkers changing tips an liners to no end. Once you have them dialled in , they will run dual shield like butter on toast. Ones yours have a switch to change between CC and CV? You will want to match that with the setting on your welder.
That vertical plate on the blade is gonna last a good 10 mins, or the first stone it hits. lol
Well we shall see, I will do an update video the next time I’m around that machine.
Be interesting to know how you handle your laundry. Your job involves a lot of dirt, grease, and sweat. Do you have a change room before coming into the house?
The wife takes care of it. Our GE washer has no issues with it. I take my boots off in the garage and change right when I get into the house.
Job security for sure .........
You ever have issues not unhooking battery cables on equipment when welding on it?
I have never had a issue with that.
I see a ripper tip nose but damn they wore the shit outta that without a shin guard. I don’t even see pin holes anymore. Why? It’s not hard for them to just put a new one on.
They either pay Cat for a wear package or pay you to repair it and suffer the down time
Someone needs to find the grease zerks on the pin and all the rest of them and add some grease! Sad to take a nice dozer like that and run it into the ground! A little preventative maintenance would have stopped all of that.
I donno shizit about heavy equipment....but mind if I ask...why wouldn't they want to have the sharp edge on the ripper?
It will naturally wear out to a sharp edge.
I thought those rippers are supposed to be that shape for cutting through roots
Look at what dirt perfect did to make their 5 foot tile plow. They basically made a triangle.
I saw that. I almost did that but didn’t have enough material with me.
Maintenance, If they all maintained there equipment properly you’d be out of work, nice job.
You are very wonderful man and your work is professional...Can I work for you??
Sir, I am serious about my request to work for you if you agree
The owner of this machine ain't too smart what he's getting you to do ain't even Band-Aids. But I get it you do what you're told to do all you can do is tell them hey I think we need to do this instead
How long did the pin last?
Like 2 weeks
They could have parked it in a little bit better spot to work on!?
Actually this spot wasn’t too bad.
what wire are you using?
Lincoln 71a75
I’ll be the first to admit I’m wrong if you show us another video of it in the future.
Holy shit batman that's wore the fuck out nice repair bud. And I have to ask what dumbass turns a dozer with the ripper in the ground. Never really see them bent like that until some turns just a little bit. Nice work bud.
look at those newer tracks on both side those had to be 20k a side alone
😎👍😎
Needed to use some old cutting edge steel 🧐
Take the ripper shanks off weld with stick rods use T 1 steel ,, OR PUT NEW RIPPER COLLAR BACK ON
You could do it that way but it would take longer and the T1 will wear out faster.
looks like you bid the job
Why are your welds so scabby?
Why didn't you hard face that flat bar on the ripper?
Because the bar is AR plate
@@OFW Oh I c, no reason to do some more? Your there why not?
@@chriss1728 the reason I use AR plate is so I don’t need to hard face
Nice work polishing a t##d. Ripper has been seriously abused by neglect of service.
Ripper Shank worn out from 4 inches (?) plus the Shin Guard, to a sharp edge thin as a knife, on less than 5 months... amazing!
For sure they don't understand what "too worn out" means or care about "maintenance"... if they let the Shin Guard to get lost.
Interesting way to re-build the thickness of the blade, on the field... but if it was me, I would have advised the client to do a replacement of the blade instead of a repair at field... on the way that CCE Australia did (when the tip broke): to cut all the Ripper Shank length that was worn out, and to weld a new 4 inches solid plate shaped as the blade from factory... on the same way as if it was tore apart on any point.
About the Pin Retainer, I would have gouged the triangular plate on it, which is shorter (or has the tip broken), and replace it with a new triangular plate to anchor the Pin on the "socket" (the one with screws), as it was intended on the factory design... on pair with the other side, where it's triangular plate could be anchored on the socket as default (as shown on the previous video).
If you feel like it, comment to me what you think about this... for the next time that it would need a repair.
Regards from Spain.
The problem is the customer just wants now now now and cheap cheap cheap instead of having it down for a bit to do it once right they'd rather just pay to continually bandaid it to keep it running paying much more in the long run then to have it down for a bit to have it done right and he done with it
Don't forget in Australia they're also a lot stricter about machines and pollution where cee is doing stuff so it can be a lil easier to get the customer to do it right to avoid big fines instead of bandaids vs other places where they can get away with more so they want fast and cheap as long as it keeps running
@@umahunter Yep, it's all true. We can't admire a proper job done by On Fire Welding, if the customer is who sais how you have to do your job... and always calls you for: "stick a lot of scrap here, and place a bunch of weld there... I will call you again when we need more scrap".
If there's someone able to do what they want, nobody could say to them: "This is how it has to be done, take it or don't call me ever again".
The problem is the holes the pin go into are extremely wore out and if you fixed the triangle piece back to factory spec it would break off right away. The entire Ripper shank assembly needs to be tore apart and line bored.
@@OFW The whole fleet needs urgent surgery, not only that D10... let's hope that that client of yours take it serious and he let you fix each part at your shop.
Is a good customer the one that constantly break things and always needs repairs?
Or is the worst customer the one that constantly calls your for cheap repairs to always have something to break?
Being able to say "Fuck Off" to a customer, it's priceless. --MasterCard
It’s a really good customer. That is why I keep doing it.
If he keeps throwing money at you, why would you want to dump him.?
Good work i dont want to sound rude but pleas can you make a service truck
Yeah oh my God really. I cant believe they just don’t replace the ripper arm. And even if unavailable why did hey wait sos long to patch her up, guess they never thought of hardfacing.
Talk about making a silk purse out of a sours ear , someone should explain to the powers that be , Prevention is Better than the Cure
You will have to go back in week or two for an update.