That was the exact info I was looking for. The LG experts at the store had no idea what I was talking about, and the sample in the showroom was built in so you couldnt see the sides. That sir, was perfect!
After some modifications, my WashTower is vented to the right. Used a PeriScope type vent. Not an easy modification, but doable if you have DIY skills.
Oh the things we're willing to do for another 2-3" of space! I have to do the same thing for my Samsung and may just fabricate my own elbow while copying their $50 kit, then just return the kit.
Hi! I am very much considering getting this same unit and I think I had the same dilemma as you. I have a closet that is not deep enough to fit the vent out the back of the dryer. Is there any chance you could let me know the depth of this unit when pushed against the back wall (since you have the side vent) I am trying to figure out if this will work in my closet. Thank you for the video! Very helpful!
Unfortunately, my general contractor left the original gas line and gas valve sticking out at the bottom. He never put the 90-degree gas valve, so my unit is not flush with the wall. Just be aware that the gas line needs to be in the right place too. Anyways, my unit is in an open space surrounded by cabinets, but one day I’ll get a plumber to come and redo the gas line.
Very informative. I needed to see the left venting option as I like this tower and need to talk intelligently to the salespeople at the big box store. So far their "expert" advice regarding possible space limitations behind the tower has been questionable. They state that a 30+ inch depth LG tower will fit fine in a 33 1/4 inch depth closet. I doubt that unless it can be vented out the left as you have shown. I sure hope so. Also, I now have a 25-year-old Maytag GAS dryer/washer in that closet, and the original installers vented it out the back using flexible, soft aluminum venting. I have read that gas dryers require rigid, metal venting (unless this means only inside the unit). This is why research is necessary. Much to learn. 🤦♀
Inside the unit…you need rigid vent pipes. Outside the unit you can run what’s called semi-rigid flex ducts. www.homedepot.com/p/GE-8-ft-Semi-Rigid-Dryer-Duct-WX08X10075/202214660 Do not use the thin aluminum paper duct line nor the thin plastic flex duct lines. Those are a fire hazard. I’m not a plumber, so check your local codes.
@@MHam1 Thanks for the help. Appreciate that! Tonight I purchased the LG Tower at Lowe's. Included delivery, installation, haul away and the "required accessories". I made sure the venting was the rigid, metal type. Later while eating dinner, a lightbulb went off. I checked my receipt. My hunch was right. The salesman neglected to order a side vent kit, even though we discussed it thoroughly and it was the reason I chose the LG. I phoned the store and reminded him to add that. He sheepishly admitted that Lowe's does not sell the kits, and he also doubted the installer would do side venting as part of "normal" installation. It did not occur to me that side venting was a DIY adventure. I was so disappointed. I owned one of these beauties for about ONE hour. Back to the drawing board.
@@MHam1 Thanks. I did not buy the kit. Because salesfolks at both Lowe's and an independent appliance store both said the LG Tower would not fit in my laundry closet, I was forced to purchase a GE stackable (the 24 inch). Big mistake. The first GE Unitized Stackable lasted 6 days. The second one lasted 13 days and was uninstalled/removed today, leaving me with NO in-home washing facilities. I am back to Square One. So bummed.
How were you able to assemble the elbows and insert them without taking the machine apart? You were able to slip the whole assembly in through the side? I need to do something similar to my new Samsung dryer and would love to avoid dissembling the entire machine to do this! Also, how did you cover the back hole where the vent originally came out? Did you just use metal 3M tape or did you put a piece of sheet metal over it? Thanks in advance.
There’s a lot of room inside the machine once you get the straight pipe and elbows through the round openings (back and side). First, insert one piece at a time and connect in place inside the cavity. Once you figure out the right lengths and turns….use hvac silver tape to tape the back straight pipe, then the elbow, then the side straight pipe. One at a time. Tape while the pipes are inside the cavity. I didn’t cover the rear vent hole but you can use the side punch out vent piece you took off to cover the rear. But you idea to use tape or sheet metal would work too. I left mine open for easy access in the future but I haven’t had to access in the last year.
@@MHam1 I kindly thank you, not just for this video / idea, but for your quick response. Really appreciate it! Taking the machine apart, especially the drum & pulley, just sounds like a terrible idea. I’m going to give it a try. I think I’m also going to apply some mastic at the joints that are inside the machine to ensure proper seal(s). Thanks again 🍻
Thanks. My goal was to share that you can cut the vent pipe that comes with the unit and use a $5 90-degree elbow to essentially end up with the same components as a kit.
Hit the connected tabs with a hammer and flat screw driver to break the knockout tabs products.geappliances.com/appliance/gea-support-search-content?contentId=38014
It’s been almost a year since I made my own side venting kit. It’s still working great. Not sure if removing the back panel helps because the dryer drum is above the exhaust vent. I don’t remember why I aborted removing the back panel. Maybe there were too many screws, wires, and clips to take off.
@@MHam1 I just ordered a new set, being delivered this week but I want to do the change over to the side as well, I see a lot of how to videos and I see everyone doing it the same way and no one removes the back panel.
I can’t access the back of the unit to look at it again. If you remove the back panel, do a YiuTube video and let me know how it goes. I remember starting to take the screws off the back panel and I aborted after taking like 8 screws off. I just don’t remember why I stopped and put the screws back on. It must have realized that the back panel was not coming off easily and I must have gotten stuck.
I used the same vent pipe end that came with the dryer. I used foil tape to connect it in place to the blower. Blower has a matching vent opening that goes perfectly with the supplied vent pipe. It’s exactly the way it came from the factory for a rear vent option. The only difference is that I used foil tape to ensure it didn’t come loose. LG didn’t use foil tape. LG just aligned it in place and made a snug connection. I used metal sheet screws to attach the vent pipe to the external dryer side panel to hold it tight. Again, I just cut up the original vent pipe and used 90-degree elbows to make it side vent.
I just used the LG WashTower for the first time with the side venting DIY pipe I made. I had to also use foil tape at the very first duct joint deep inside the dryer. If you don’t tape that fist connection point on a side vent, the vent pipe comes loose at that point and it’s not a tight seal. I suppose when the vent pipe is straight, the outside screw holds it in place. When you side vent, the 90 degree elbow is free to move and causes that fist connection point to come off. I found this out when I felt too much air coming out the back of the unit. The owners manual says to tape the vent pipes, but it doesn’t have any illustrations or tips on making sure you tape the fist connection point especially on a side vent.
If you look online, the supplied LG kit has to be modified anyway. The straight length of conduit they supply is too short. So if you have to modify something that costs $100-200, you might was well pick up the parts for a 10th of the cost.
That was the exact info I was looking for. The LG experts at the store had no idea what I was talking about, and the sample in the showroom was built in so you couldnt see the sides. That sir, was perfect!
After some modifications, my WashTower is vented to the right. Used a PeriScope type vent. Not an easy modification, but doable if you have DIY skills.
This is exactly what I need to do. Can you tell me more? Thx
Can you provide some more info? I need to vent to the right as well
I love the DIY spirit! By the way, the bottom venting hole is when the machines are not stacked and you vent down thru the basement.
Got it. This model doesn’t unstack. It’s only meant to be used stacked.
Oh the things we're willing to do for another 2-3" of space! I have to do the same thing for my Samsung and may just fabricate my own elbow while copying their $50 kit, then just return the kit.
Hi! I am very much considering getting this same unit and I think I had the same dilemma as you. I have a closet that is not deep enough to fit the vent out the back of the dryer.
Is there any chance you could let me know the depth of this unit when pushed against the back wall (since you have the side vent) I am trying to figure out if this will work in my closet.
Thank you for the video! Very helpful!
Unfortunately, my general contractor left the original gas line and gas valve sticking out at the bottom. He never put the 90-degree gas valve, so my unit is not flush with the wall.
Just be aware that the gas line needs to be in the right place too.
Anyways, my unit is in an open space surrounded by cabinets, but one day I’ll get a plumber to come and redo the gas line.
Nice GX 470
Thank you very much, big help.
Very informative. I needed to see the left venting option as I like this tower and need to talk intelligently to the salespeople at the big box store. So far their "expert" advice regarding possible space limitations behind the tower has been questionable. They state that a 30+ inch depth LG tower will fit fine in a 33 1/4 inch depth closet. I doubt that unless it can be vented out the left as you have shown. I sure hope so. Also, I now have a 25-year-old Maytag GAS dryer/washer in that closet, and the original installers vented it out the back using flexible, soft aluminum venting. I have read that gas dryers require rigid, metal venting (unless this means only inside the unit). This is why research is necessary. Much to learn. 🤦♀
Inside the unit…you need rigid vent pipes.
Outside the unit you can run what’s called semi-rigid flex ducts. www.homedepot.com/p/GE-8-ft-Semi-Rigid-Dryer-Duct-WX08X10075/202214660
Do not use the thin aluminum paper duct line nor the thin plastic flex duct lines. Those are a fire hazard.
I’m not a plumber, so check your local codes.
@@MHam1 Thanks for the help. Appreciate that! Tonight I purchased the LG Tower at Lowe's. Included delivery, installation, haul away and the "required accessories". I made sure the venting was the rigid, metal type. Later while eating dinner, a lightbulb went off. I checked my receipt. My hunch was right. The salesman neglected to order a side vent kit, even though we discussed it thoroughly and it was the reason I chose the LG. I phoned the store and reminded him to add that. He sheepishly admitted that Lowe's does not sell the kits, and he also doubted the installer would do side venting as part of "normal" installation. It did not occur to me that side venting was a DIY adventure. I was so disappointed. I owned one of these beauties for about ONE hour. Back to the drawing board.
They sell the side vent kit on amazon. You can order there
@@MHam1 Thanks. I did not buy the kit. Because salesfolks at both Lowe's and an independent appliance store both said the LG Tower would not fit in my laundry closet, I was forced to purchase a GE stackable (the 24 inch). Big mistake. The first GE Unitized Stackable lasted 6 days. The second one lasted 13 days and was uninstalled/removed today, leaving me with NO in-home washing facilities. I am back to Square One. So bummed.
How were you able to assemble the elbows and insert them without taking the machine apart? You were able to slip the whole assembly in through the side? I need to do something similar to my new Samsung dryer and would love to avoid dissembling the entire machine to do this! Also, how did you cover the back hole where the vent originally came out? Did you just use metal 3M tape or did you put a piece of sheet metal over it? Thanks in advance.
There’s a lot of room inside the machine once you get the straight pipe and elbows through the round openings (back and side).
First, insert one piece at a time and connect in place inside the cavity. Once you figure out the right lengths and turns….use hvac silver tape to tape the back straight pipe, then the elbow, then the side straight pipe. One at a time. Tape while the pipes are inside the cavity.
I didn’t cover the rear vent hole but you can use the side punch out vent piece you took off to cover the rear. But you idea to use tape or sheet metal would work too.
I left mine open for easy access in the future but I haven’t had to access in the last year.
@@MHam1 I kindly thank you, not just for this video / idea, but for your quick response. Really appreciate it! Taking the machine apart, especially the drum & pulley, just sounds like a terrible idea. I’m going to give it a try. I think I’m also going to apply some mastic at the joints that are inside the machine to ensure proper seal(s). Thanks again 🍻
Can I have the measurements for the pipes to cut please
Well explained
On an electric dryer do you think it can vent to the right?
Yes. Electric dryers do not have the rigid gas line partially blocking the right vent hole
@@MHam1 Thanks. I thought your solution was great.
Thanks. My goal was to share that you can cut the vent pipe that comes with the unit and use a $5 90-degree elbow to essentially end up with the same components as a kit.
Thks just had to do this……
How did you pop out the metal side vent piece?
Hit the connected tabs with a hammer and flat screw driver to break the knockout tabs
products.geappliances.com/appliance/gea-support-search-content?contentId=38014
Question here. IS it possible to remove the back cover panel and access the exhaust that way?
It’s been almost a year since I made my own side venting kit. It’s still working great.
Not sure if removing the back panel helps because the dryer drum is above the exhaust vent.
I don’t remember why I aborted removing the back panel. Maybe there were too many screws, wires, and clips to take off.
@@MHam1 I just ordered a new set, being delivered this week but I want to do the change over to the side as well, I see a lot of how to videos and I see everyone doing it the same way and no one removes the back panel.
I can’t access the back of the unit to look at it again. If you remove the back panel, do a YiuTube video and let me know how it goes.
I remember starting to take the screws off the back panel and I aborted after taking like 8 screws off.
I just don’t remember why I stopped and put the screws back on.
It must have realized that the back panel was not coming off easily and I must have gotten stuck.
How do you connect it to the blower?
I used the same vent pipe end that came with the dryer. I used foil tape to connect it in place to the blower. Blower has a matching vent opening that goes perfectly with the supplied vent pipe.
It’s exactly the way it came from the factory for a rear vent option. The only difference is that I used foil tape to ensure it didn’t come loose. LG didn’t use foil tape. LG just aligned it in place and made a snug connection.
I used metal sheet screws to attach the vent pipe to the external dryer side panel to hold it tight. Again, I just cut up the original vent pipe and used 90-degree elbows to make it side vent.
Hello good video
I just used the LG WashTower for the first time with the side venting DIY pipe I made.
I had to also use foil tape at the very first duct joint deep inside the dryer. If you don’t tape that fist connection point on a side vent, the vent pipe comes loose at that point and it’s not a tight seal.
I suppose when the vent pipe is straight, the outside screw holds it in place.
When you side vent, the 90 degree elbow is free to move and causes that fist connection point to come off.
I found this out when I felt too much air coming out the back of the unit.
The owners manual says to tape the vent pipes, but it doesn’t have any illustrations or tips on making sure you tape the fist connection point especially on a side vent.
When you spend $2,400 on a washtower just buy the $70 kit
The LG dryer kit is one 90-degree elbow and two short vent pipes.
If you look online, the supplied LG kit has to be modified anyway. The straight length of conduit they supply is too short. So if you have to modify something that costs $100-200, you might was well pick up the parts for a 10th of the cost.
And just how did you secure the DIY vent pieces? Unacceptable install.
Used foil tape and metal sheet screws to secure the oem pipe
Your name implies your comment. He did an A+ install. You are just a tool.