Hi guys, I think you forget a bit, that every car you own will cost you a lot of money. Buy a new VW T6 and drive it for 100k km. For that money you can buy a garage including a car lifter and an acceptable T25 and some tools. I talk about costs for buying the car, paying the maintenance, the parts and everything else. Also, it is very sustainable to drive an old car and spent money on repairing it instead of buying a new car and drive it for only 10 years. If you go to a big car shop and pay for repairing your new car, you will get trading stamps. If you bring your classic car to a classic car mechanic, you get friends. Kind regards from Germany Ralph
I agree with the rust areas i have fixed rust on a couple and those have been the spots that went. As far as rust goes i will say that they are definitely not worse than all other cars from that time i have seen mk2's that are far worse
Great stuff lads, this channel deserves to grow quickly. Helpful hints there for all, especially the none mechanics. Prices going through the roof at the mo, so very timely advice 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Looks like you need to change that earth strap to the gearbox. If you think about it, if the earth strap is rotted out, when the starter is operated, it is drawing starting current through anything metallic connected to the engine? Pipes, accellerator cable, etc. It can actually cause some damage if there is not a good earth to the engine/transmission to the bodywork!
Thought that was a really useful review. My personal concern is the external panel joints/seams, mainly because I can't see how to carry out a real fix if rust is going into the seams.
Really useful video. Im at the early stages of looking for a van and was going down the t2 route, but after watching your video's on the t25 westfalia I think ive changed my mind. I feel a lot more confident about going to look at some vans now.
Like that in depth look as to what to look for rust wise I'm looking to view a couple of T3's T25's would this guy come out for a fee to inspect and possibly negotiate he seem extremely knowledgeable on these
Hey guys! Did you ever do the follow up for the T2? This was the best video on the subject I've seen, so seeing one for the T2 would be great, but I can't seem to find it!
Its impossible to find a "totally" rust free t25 and the whole chasis needs to be disassembled to get there, should I just just ignore the surface rust on many parts and just fix the necessaries and keep driving and fix the sections that show up in MOT, im a little bit perfectionist so that annoys me
Hi guys, I think you forget a bit, that every car you own will cost you a lot of money. Buy a new VW T6 and drive it for 100k km. For that money you can buy a garage including a car lifter and an acceptable T25 and some tools. I talk about costs for buying the car, paying the maintenance, the parts and everything else. Also, it is very sustainable to drive an old car and spent money on repairing it instead of buying a new car and drive it for only 10 years. If you go to a big car shop and pay for repairing your new car, you will get trading stamps. If you bring your classic car to a classic car mechanic, you get friends. Kind regards from Germany Ralph
Good point Ralph. In the time some of us have had 1 old van, someone else has had 10 new ones...
I agree with the rust areas i have fixed rust on a couple and those have been the spots that went. As far as rust goes i will say that they are definitely not worse than all other cars from that time i have seen mk2's that are far worse
Great stuff lads, this channel deserves to grow quickly. Helpful hints there for all, especially the none mechanics. Prices going through the roof at the mo, so very timely advice 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Looks like you need to change that earth strap to the gearbox. If you think about it, if the earth strap is rotted out, when the starter is operated, it is drawing starting current through anything metallic connected to the engine? Pipes, accellerator cable, etc. It can actually cause some damage if there is not a good earth to the engine/transmission to the bodywork!
Thought that was a really useful review. My personal concern is the external panel joints/seams, mainly because I can't see how to carry out a real fix if rust is going into the seams.
Always a tricky one… often means panel replacement because of access… but fo camping, admire its age, all of a sudden it feels better 👍👍 Ben
Really useful video. Im at the early stages of looking for a van and was going down the t2 route, but after watching your video's on the t25 westfalia I think ive changed my mind. I feel a lot more confident about going to look at some vans now.
dont do it the night mare will start have a normal car ready
Inspection video starts @14:37-- Great Video!
Useful, thank you.
Like that in depth look as to what to look for rust wise I'm looking to view a couple of T3's T25's would this guy come out for a fee to inspect and possibly negotiate he seem extremely knowledgeable on these
fantastic video guys! unbelievably useful information. 🤙
Hey guys! Did you ever do the follow up for the T2? This was the best video on the subject I've seen, so seeing one for the T2 would be great, but I can't seem to find it!
Great info! Thanks for the info and effort!
Its impossible to find a "totally" rust free t25 and the whole chasis needs to be disassembled to get there, should I just just ignore the surface rust on many parts and just fix the necessaries and keep driving and fix the sections that show up in MOT, im a little bit perfectionist so that annoys me
@nutjob who are jaz and John? I need some welding done.
Too much waffle
Turned off . To much “crazy guys talking “ should have been more informative
these guys are kinda annoying