A step by step guide on how to make a 3D transfer. NOTE: The materials used in this video can be harmful please research the materials before using them and follow the safety instructions.
Hi, I use silc pig silicone pigments but you can use any silicone pigment, you could probably even use oil paint if you wanted to save some money. I haven't noticed any shrinkage as of yet and haven't tried it in a food mixer as I found it works perfectly well without mixing it for a long time. I didn't know that Mould Life had pre released acetate, thats handy but I imagine quite expensive. Acetate and vaseline works for me. Not a problem, thanks for the interest and comment.
The food mixer idea is to omit the use of cabosil and get the water content down to a minimum. Most FX companies like KNB favour this method, as they get minimum shrinkage when put them in the dehydrator and the detail remains
I would be guessing you aren't getting any shrinkage as you are not fully drying them , which could be a time saver and bonus. I may try my flesh colour silicone pigment as I am not quite getting what I want with acrylic inks. May put some flocking in too. The acetate sheets at mould life are reasonable for the size but I don'y like their minimum delivery price of £15. Mould Life sell the transfer paper and acetate together
Well the Cabosil way is best for you then. Just mixed up a batch of bondo today, 1 Kg of Pros Aide and it was so quick in the heat of my conservatory and using a fan. I am going to try your idea of the silicone pigments with this batch..well a test sample first, then if it works, scale it up. I wonder if you have any other pieces that you could video you applying and upload them to your channel.? Be nice to see the full result. :)
Nice. What do you use to tint them? Do you find you get much shrinkage using Cabosil? Have you tried thickening pro saide in a food mixer? Have you tried the pre released acetate sheets that come with the water slide paper, from Mould Life? I must try leaving my small one for just one hour to thaw out. I normally do it for 12 hours in a dehydrator before they dry. Could save me a lot of time. Sorry about all the questions but I like seeing other peoples processes
Hi Louise, ive just stumbled across your video and will soon be attempting to make my own. Ive read the comments and am concerned that the transfer paper may leave a film over the prosthetic once its applied. What exact transfer paper did you yourself use, for example was it from staples, mouldlife ect I dont want to have the same problem as the products are expensive. thankss
Hi Louise! I just tried making my own and when I try to remove the mould it takes the bondo with it, leaving me with the bondo inside the mould and the acetate on its own. How do I get the acetate to stick to the bondo? Thanks!
Hi Louise, and ... I also have a problem, I bought some waterslide transfer paper and it leaves a film over the prosthetic completely covering all detail I put into it. Obviously the wrong type of transfer paper, could you guide me to the right kind? I've had a look at different types and from what I can see on the accompanying images a lot of the papers seem to leave a film. PS thanks for the video, very informative!
Hi , I have used a products called pro bondo from a company called makeup in London . After I put it in the mold , cover with the acetate paper and put it in the Refrigerator over night . But it still haven't dry . I wanna know is it the bondo got some problem ? Or the acetate paper cover on it , no air can get it and can't dry ? Thanks to ans my question . Coz I try many many time but still have the same problem
I can't release the application from acetate, even if i tried different kind of release agents (included vaseline) !!! any other suggestion??? thank you
The bondo needs to be frozen not just refridgerated in order for it to have the chemical reaction. This will also make it stiffer and easier to remove from the mould. Hope this helps?
I always put a bit of flocking in mine. Yeah the postage from mould life is a bit steep. Yeah that makes sense, I don't have the space for a mixer to be honest.
It will. Just stick some vaseline or Epoxy Parfilm in the mould as a release. Brush or spray in your cap plastic in the necessary number of layers, mix your deadened silicone and smooth it in. Even if the silicone mould is made with condensation cured silicones, the cap plastic will prevent cure inhibition of you addition cured appliance silicone.
This video has really helped me for my project! Does anyone have a link to the correct type of paper for the transfer? I have bought one and it's not appropriate. Thanks
Hi, I use silc pig silicone pigments but you can use any silicone pigment, you could probably even use oil paint if you wanted to save some money. I haven't noticed any shrinkage as of yet and haven't tried it in a food mixer as I found it works perfectly well without mixing it for a long time. I didn't know that Mould Life had pre released acetate, thats handy but I imagine quite expensive. Acetate and vaseline works for me. Not a problem, thanks for the interest and comment.
Can I ask why you use transfer paper?? We literally do the pro bondo, leave it for 24 hours and apply it straight to the skin from the mold x
The food mixer idea is to omit the use of cabosil and get the water content down to a minimum. Most FX companies like KNB favour this method, as they get minimum shrinkage when put them in the dehydrator and the detail remains
I would be guessing you aren't getting any shrinkage as you are not fully drying them , which could be a time saver and bonus. I may try my flesh colour silicone pigment as I am not quite getting what I want with acrylic inks. May put some flocking in too. The acetate sheets at mould life are reasonable for the size but I don'y like their minimum delivery price of £15. Mould Life sell the transfer paper and acetate together
Great Video Louise!
Well the Cabosil way is best for you then. Just mixed up a batch of bondo today, 1 Kg of Pros Aide and it was so quick in the heat of my conservatory and using a fan. I am going to try your idea of the silicone pigments with this batch..well a test sample first, then if it works, scale it up. I wonder if you have any other pieces that you could video you applying and upload them to your channel.? Be nice to see the full result. :)
Nice. What do you use to tint them? Do you find you get much shrinkage using Cabosil? Have you tried thickening pro saide in a food mixer? Have you tried the pre released acetate sheets that come with the water slide paper, from Mould Life? I must try leaving my small one for just one hour to thaw out. I normally do it for 12 hours in a dehydrator before they dry. Could save me a lot of time. Sorry about all the questions but I like seeing other peoples processes
Hi Louise, ive just stumbled across your video and will soon be attempting to make my own. Ive read the comments and am concerned that the transfer paper may leave a film over the prosthetic once its applied. What exact transfer paper did you yourself use, for example was it from staples, mouldlife ect I dont want to have the same problem as the products are expensive. thankss
Hi Louise! I just tried making my own and when I try to remove the mould it takes the bondo with it, leaving me with the bondo inside the mould and the acetate on its own. How do I get the acetate to stick to the bondo? Thanks!
Hi! thanks for this video i cant wait to try it. are you able to provide your recipe to make the bondo as its not a product available in australia
Nice tutorial! How long after it is done I have to apply it on skin? Can I apply 10 days later for example?
Hi Louise, and ... I also have a problem, I bought some waterslide transfer paper and it leaves a film over the prosthetic completely covering all detail I put into it.
Obviously the wrong type of transfer paper, could you guide me to the right kind?
I've had a look at different types and from what I can see on the accompanying images a lot of the papers seem to leave a film.
PS thanks for the video, very informative!
Hi , I have used a products called pro bondo from a company called makeup in London . After I put it in the mold , cover with the acetate paper and put it in the Refrigerator over night . But it still haven't dry . I wanna know is it the bondo got some problem ? Or the acetate paper cover on it , no air can get it and can't dry ? Thanks to ans my question . Coz I try many many time but still have the same problem
What type of silicone is that?
What would you recommend using as a release agent on the mold itself?
She didn’t mention but always put a little vaseline in the mold before put the bondo in otherwise it would stuck in the mold.
Very helpful - cool :D
The white paper as it is called?
I can't release the application from acetate, even if i tried different kind of release agents (included vaseline) !!! any other suggestion??? thank you
The side of the acetate that you use matters. Make sure you are applying to the correct side of the acetate or it will not release.
how do you do the bondo?
The bondo needs to be frozen not just refridgerated in order for it to have the chemical reaction. This will also make it stiffer and easier to remove from the mould. Hope this helps?
Do you think this procedure will work with silicone, instead of bondo (after using an incapsulator to prevent silicone to stick on the mould)??
I always put a bit of flocking in mine. Yeah the postage from mould life is a bit steep. Yeah that makes sense, I don't have the space for a mixer to be honest.
It will. Just stick some vaseline or Epoxy Parfilm in the mould as a release. Brush or spray in your cap plastic in the necessary number of layers, mix your deadened silicone and smooth it in. Even if the silicone mould is made with condensation cured silicones, the cap plastic will prevent cure inhibition of you addition cured appliance silicone.
hi, where can I buy ONLY the transparent film? what you use for the transfer prosthesis
This video has really helped me for my project! Does anyone have a link to the correct type of paper for the transfer? I have bought one and it's not appropriate. Thanks
Same problem here.
Anybody has an answer?