Bruder Tipping Trailer RC conversion part 1: mechanics
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- Опубліковано 25 вер 2018
- First of two videos showing how I fitted radio control to make a Bruder tipping trailer automatically move up and down. In this first part I modified a steel coach bolt to accept an N20 geared micro motor and fitted the mechanism to the chassis of the trailer. Precise fitting of the parts is quite important and plenty of testing along the way would be advised.
The only really tricky bit is drilling a 3mm hole in the centre of the end of the coach bolt. I used my lathe to do this and might possibly make these available on Ebay if there is any demand and people are having real difficulty with this part of the conversion. I'll post a link to Ebay here if I end up doing that to help people. These videos are quite detailed - as I am trying to provide something accessible to modellers at all levels of experience and show the process I go through to develop concepts into ideas and make them work in reality.
In the next video I hope to figure out a way to control the movement of the ram - with some kind of feature to prevent the nut on the rod overshooting and damaging the model.
Please leave comments and feedback. I'm genuinely interested in what you think and the ideas that you might have.
I have built up quite a small collection of Bruder toys ready for conversion and I am working my way up to the trucks, excavators and bulldozers etc.
If you enjoy the video and finf it interesting, please hit the 'like' button - as this helps me better gauge the true popularity of these Bruder builds and if you want to know when the next one has come out then please subscribe.
Bruder tractor trailer set : www.smythstoys.com/uk/en-gb/t... - Авто та транспорт
I started watching your videos yesterday and can't stop ,,,I absolutely love what your doing and you have inspired me to build a brunder bulldozer ,,just wanted to say thank you for what you do and taking the time to share.
Greg
Hey Greg. Very nice to hear! It’s kind of why I do these videos. To inspire people to have a go themselves and give a few clues to get started. Bruder toys are a great basis for radio control conversion as the engineering and quality is to such a high standard to start with that the finished models turn out so nicely. Good luck with your build! 🙂👍
Another great video Pete.
I'm really impressed with the way you work out how to over come the engineering difficulties that arise when converting the Bruder series of toys to full RC.
Please keep them coming mate as the videos are so interesting and informative, I look forward to watching them as soon as I get a notification that a new one has been released.
Thanks Ian. I’m just working through my options on the electronic control .... another little conundrum to get the little grey cells working. 👍
Hello there the video you are making about the bruder toys are excellent and shows how easy it can be thank you
Many thanks. I am enjoying making these. I'm also really looking forward to getting onto the trucks and excavators etc - which I will get to in due course.
Awsome DIY how to video.Im just getting into doing a few RC conversation too.Iv learns when joining smooth plastics with glue glue hold better scuffing the 2 pars The glue bonds them together and the bond is very strong.Thanks for sharing.
Thank you. Good advice on the gluing. 👍
Very nice work..I enjoy your videos. Nicely done..The bruder line of toys I find such a fun challenge to bring to Rc life.. Its food for the brain challenges that make it fun..Big thumbs up #18 keep them coming bud
Thank you! Appreciate the feedback! Agree it is the challenge & the massive satisfaction when it works - plus I don't have to paint the bodywork after doing the mechanics 🙂
No problem bud, you know what can help you acheive the torque/power and speed needed for for screw drives.. Try lead screws from 3d printers etc for your drive system your get the power and speed you'll need..Your long bolt works good too yet the evolutions is high for the distance achieved 8-)
Brilliant - this (lead screw) is just what I was looking for when I start on the 'hydraulics' on the excavators and diggers - but I didn't know what they were called! I've sent off for some on E-bay to experiment with. 🙂🙂🙂
I watched this video till end found very good informative to rc modeler.Thank you well explanation how to do..hope more vidoe will release in other rc staff.
Glad you liked it! 😀👍
Thanks for sharing sir.
Thanks 🙂
looking good. you could make a clamp to hold the motor better... a piece of plastic across the top with a nut and bolt at each end and tighten them down to sandwich the motor between the clamp and lower mount.
my "bead lock" wheels arrived although i had to glue the tyres still, added a decent bit more wheel weight to my rig. i also hot glued some nails and bits inside that bumper to add a bit more weight to the front. seems to grip a little better now and less prone to rolling over backwards.
considering some rc4wd gellande mini tyres as they fit the wheels and might actually allow the bead lock to work.
also, your welcome. glad to see you putting some bits to good use.
roll on pt2
Thank you! The cable ties are holding well so far, but could need a revisit. Your WPL is coming along nicely, a bit of weight in front (especially around the rims inside the tyres) always helps with the climbing of a crawler. Kit version WPL tyres are nice and soft & scale looking, sometimes it can a few goes to get beadlocks gripping properly - seating them properly and then doing the bolts in a pattern can make a difference.The 6v N20 was just perfect as was one of the dremel bits. Good timing! 🙂
briliant as always saving this one
Thank you! 👍
Impressive work.
Many thanks! 👍
Amazing
Thanks!
Very beautiful video! Senks)
Thank you! 😀👍
Very nicely done. Is the coach bolt thread metric or Whitworth...does it matter...eg. the speed of the "tip"
Definitely metric. Probably m8 (maybe 10?). I chose that as the square but fitted. It doesn’t really matter- different pitch threads will give different speeds - as will different Rpm motors. These days I tend to use T8 lead screws with 200 rpm motors in this sort of application. 🙂👍
Hi RC Modders! Your videos inspire me converting a bruder cat skid loader. Totally different approach than yours but still functional as well more like a magom rc kind off. Did not modified any cosmetic look and rather than putting on big servo I did put 2 small metal gear ones on each side to lift the main arm. Took me more to figure out how to arrange them but it end up quite well. I'm building a MAN dump truck now and wanted to know if this method could be done for a bigger dump box. don't know if a bigger motor could be run from a Y cable connected to a channel like you did here. Again thanks for all these videos!
Great to hear that you are inspired. I tried to use a 2RPM 12v motor to lift a dump truck and it would not lift earth well. The method used on the tipping trailer in this video will work on any big truck, but will be slow usually, rams using T8-2 lead screws can be a good compromise between speed and power. For a bigger motor with higher voltage it is better to add an ESC - or at the very least a powerful BEC. hope this all makes sense.
@@RCModders yes it does!!! thanks again for those advices. sadly here its not as easy to get rc parts and you'll have to deal with its available. I'm sure I'll figure out how to. maybe use a bigger metal gear servo to drive the worm rod and add those limit switches. Again thanks for the reply. And keep inspiring RC models like me! Cheers from South America.
Iv'e been using the same "tipping idea"...threaded rod and sliding nut on a different model. When the nut has reached the stop eg. the tray is on the deck, when I reverse the motor to raise the tray it k jams. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Travel limiting micro switches with diodes are the key. 😀👍
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Many thanks for subscribing! 😀👍
Excellent descriptive video You really are a myth. I would like to ask how many RPM has the electric motor you used
Thank you for your kind comments. I think that that I ended up using a standard tamiya 130 motor in this model - which I believe to be around the 12,000 RPM mark at 3V. This one I believe : www.pololu.com/product/77 🙂👍
+RC Modders 👍
Really enjoying your convwrsion videos. Im interested to know what glue you are using to bond the plastic parts together. I see you are using a primer aerosol. Also why did you choose an 8mm coach bolt as against a 6mm bolt...was it because the nut fitted snugly into the slide? Cheers
@@alangriff1 Glad you are enjoying them. When I use an aerosol with glue, then the glue is cyano (ie superglue) and the aerosol is called a 'kicker' or activator to harden the glue more quickly. This only works with the hard plastics. These days I don't use much superglue (if I do its the Gorilla brand) - as I tend to either bolt things, make 3D printed parts or use hot glue. The nut did fit nicely & the bigger the bolt, the faster and smoother it will move. Hope that all helps. 🙂👍
Brother can you give it to what
Not sure I understand.