HOW TO// FORD FOCUS & C MAX REAR GEARBOX MOUNT REPLACEMENT
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- Опубліковано 30 січ 2021
- How to replace the lower rear gearbox/transmission mount on Ford Focus and C Max models from circa 2003-2011
This mount fits most engines and transmissions fitted to these models with some minor differences depending on the setup.
Part No: 1751001 - Авто та транспорт
spent ages trying to figure out which mount I needed for my c30, good to know the newer designs fit, brilliant video!
‘I know it’s ugly’ - you gotta do what you gotta do. Great vid by the way - I’ve got an ST500 that’s clunking on acceleration and decelerating so gonna check mine now! Thanks again
Just replaced this for the second time in 10 months. Last time I bought a dirt-cheap part of the older design, expecting it to last at least a few years, but no. Today I replaced with a more expensive, newer design one, and referred back to this excellent, clear video for guidance. Hopefully it'll last this time!
Hi there. Is the new mount working fine?
@@TarcisioCastro1 I haven't inspected from underneath recently, but all seems fine with it so far.
Many thanks, did mine last week, though I had to jack up the engine via the gearbox bell housing, then I had enough clearance to get it in. A big difference though, and thanks to you , as I wasn't aware how worn and split it was. Many thanks 😀😀
No problem and glad the video helped
Cheers for this post, did mine today huge improvement. Mine manifested itself initially with a shake through the car at start and tickover, felt like it was on three cylinders.
Finally and quite suddenly felt like the engine was trying to get out of the car.
Top man help me a lot as I wasn't sure if I buy right one 😅 thank you 💪
Great video sir,
It help me upgrade this transmission mount on my 2009 Mazda 5 old design, like the one you've removed in video. Now, no more noise when I change gears, especially on Rear as It was very noisy and shaky.
Great video easy fix doing mine tomorrow
Great video thanks - I have a similar issue with a focus mk2 thanks again
Great vid very helpful
Easy video to work with thanks
Same mount as on the 2l LF engined Mazda3 which uses a lot of Focus 2 parts, but I've not checked the part numbers. The top mount is a Ford rubber part in a Mazda frame so it cost twice as much as the Focus one when it failed.
With a bolt going into aluminium as here there's the risk of thread galling so I'd always put some lubricant on the thread to prevent it.
Great job 👍
Got new top and this mount coming soon, 2012 focus. Looks like changing the top first, leaving the 2 frame mount bolts out to allow engine to move will be easier.
Great job!
Great video, got to do my Volvo C30 tomorrow. Which will be a challenge as its been lowered by the previous owner. So it will be up on axle stands etc. I've been getting a knocking going over speed bumps at low speed and when changing gears (again at low speeds) looked at the mount today and it looks worn. Hopefully this job should cure it. Thanks for the video. It's very helpful. Hopefully it will be straightforward, you've made it look easy. Just hoping that it goes the same way for me tomorrow. A mechanic said to use some washing up liquid to help send the new one home.
I have S40N and have knocking aswell. Under the floor it sounds someone banging :) over big bumps and when accelerating fast or snapping throttle both at start/takeoff and when driving
Either that or swaybar bushings.
Did you replace yours? How did it go? What happened with the knocking
@@orfeous I just replaced the gear box mount like in this video. I couldn't tell at the time if it had worn out or not. It was flipping tight getting it out and just as bad getting it in. However the knocking has completely stopped now. I was also getting bad vibration when braking at speed. Originally I thought that was the wheel balancing. But had that done before replacing the gearbox mount. Now it's little or no vibration at all. Apparently these a quite common to wear out and because it attaches to the subframe it sounds like the car is gonna fall apart. Took me about two hours to do. Had to do it via axle stands and get underneath it. Great video. Really helped me. Hope you get yours sorted.
@@265Gunner ah, I will replace the right one aswell since I have that new too.
I have vibration when idle. Right mirror shakes a little but and the interior. Also the isolation material on the hood vibrates. Also the cover on the map lights.
Lots of things going on. Loading the engine with parking brake on it moves a couple of centimeters. Banging on the floor are the most annoying and the sloppiness feeling. Also the vibrations allover.
Those two are the most common. Rarely I see people change the left one under the battery box. Connected to gearbox
@@265Gunner did you have any vibrations when accelerating? if you did, did it solve that problem aswell?
It is important, however, that once the video has been made, which is in any case well done, to let people know how the car behaves on the road, after the spare part has been replaced.
Thanks in was very helpful
I did exactly the same job with the exact same parts today. It was a lot easier on the Focus 😂
Good job
thanks
Teşekkürler
Hi the video is helpful. Do you have a part no. for the small bushing on the transmisson? or the dimensions?
Sir nice video a good learning experienced, thanks..anyway do you have a video for ford ecosport titanium rear engine support replacement? Thank you so much.. God bless you always...
Hi, thanks for your kind words. I don’t have one for the EcoSport but they are very similar to this
Do you dont destroy other two mount when you dont hold the engine?
I am using Mk3 but that mounting was fitted into my car got the car from Ford dealership, I keep getting this vibration
Would like to have seen the before and after effect with the engine running.
I did try to film it but it just wouldn’t get picked up by the camera/mic when filming
@@thegasketshead1416 Thanks for the post.
I have a banging sound under the floor when snapping the throttle. It might be that engine mount or swaybar bushings. My engine moves about 2cm back and forth
Most likely the transmission mount but worth giving all the mounts a good wiggle just in case it’s one of the others. If the d bushes have gone you would usually experience knocks and bangs over bumps as well as acceleration
@@thegasketshead1416 i do
@@thegasketshead1416 turned out to be the control arm ball joint that had failed. That caused the clunking and that. But can also be in combination with my bad torque mount.
This wedge is for automatic transmissions, you must specify this.
They are pretty similar for all engine/transmission variants
Hi dude do you have the link too the part ? Think I have found the same on ebay but wanted to make sure.
The part number I used was 1751001. If you type that in ebay it should bring plenty of choices up
@@thegasketshead1416 nice one. Ive got to do this on my CMAX. 👌 if you come to do the radiator, I’ve got that on my jobs list too 😂😂
How do I take the bolt out if the Captive nut keeps spinning. It is the one you took off first
Sounds like it has been threaded. Try to get a flat head screwdriver between the flange in the nut whilst turning the bolt and hope it starts to come out. Will take a bit of improvisation but hope you get it out without too much stress
Ok thanks for the help I will give it a try
Do you know the part number for the bush at all, or where it could be found please
There isn’t a part number for the bush as Ford only sell it with the mount(there are a few different numbers for these depending on the gearbox) but if you search for the main mount 1751001 a few people sell them together as a kit.
@@thegasketshead1416 Thanks so much. For now I've just ordered the mount as the bush looked ok like yours when I had a look after leaving that comment. Cheers 👍
When this fails would this cause a single loud clunk sound on hard accelerating? Having this issue on my focus and thinking either engine mount or cv joint.
Most likely the transmission mount but check the other mounts as they are all quite common on the focus/c max platform
@@gremmygremmington2587I replaced the rear gearbox mount and the noise is still there but not as loud, I checked the other mounts and the right engine mount seems to be leaking, got a replacement coming fingers crossed it's that one. thanks for the reply.
Any update, did it fix it? 😁
Same here.. clunk.. banging under the floor when hard accelerate/take off or when driving. Also on some speed bumps
@@orfeous I had a clunking/banging when stalling, replaced gearbox stabilizer with the uprated one and problem solved.
Also check your front control arm bushes.
Check the lower gearbox stabilizer before replacing it. Mine had a few splits and a bit of free movement
Hope that helps 👍
I couldn't remove mine, can't swing the engine forward enough to free the torque mount. Please help
A decent size pry bar should do it. They can be a pain sometimes!
jack it up mate ? cheers tho fella !
It’ll have to be jacked up or on ramps unless your wafer thin(which I am not 😂)
I failed with this on my car :(
Cant get the underneith bolt off/out. I can get it to turn a little but it just bounces back with a feeling of rubber.. like if you turn a bit then the rubber bounces it back.
I took the "console" out though. Was quite easy.. could not get the top one and back one of with machine.. could only get the side ones out with that :)
It seems in every viceo ive watched no one have any problems of taking the underneith one out. Mine are stuck like crazy. Other peoples seems they are barely tight :)
But i think i need to have my car on a lift or something.. its really hard to reach on the concrete floor and jack stands..
I feel your pain, it’s probably seized in there. Heat would be your best option but you could try putting some penetrating fluid over the course of a few days to help. I can’t imagine drilling it out would be fun though
@@thegasketshead1416 is it red loctite on the end of the bolt? I might turned the wrench wrong way. Tightening instead of loosing. But I'm not sure. Hope I have not messed up the threads or something. Shouldn't.. but.. because of the rubber bouncing it back.
Can't get to a lift because of the console and mount are not connected. Had a hard time with the console. Struggled. So I gave up and left it only connected with the big bolt. Console not screwed on the gearbox. I hope you understand what I mean. My console and mount looks similar but not really.
Might be able to unscrew the big bolt and then screw on the console and then try to fiddle with both parts to connect. Might be easier. You can shift the engine a little bit.
@@thegasketshead1416 this job needs a car lift and not only jack stands. Too tight laying on the floor.
@@thegasketshead1416 do you think I can creep with my car without this mount? Have to creep it in to the garage/shop to continue fix this. Can't tow it in cause I have no tow hook :(
@@orfeous no loctite on these, just a captive nut on the subframe. Might be best getting a couple of new bolts and take it in to a garage with the correct equipment to deal with the seized bolt