If you do want to take them out what I do is I take a large damp sponge and slowly remove all the glaze from a bottom inch or less slowly slowly slowly wiping until you finally see the bottom skin of the pot all the way around the perimeter of the pot you let it dry a little bit and then you re dip it just passed the old glaze line. At that point you get a glaze line obviously where it's double thick. After it is dried completely 100% dry as a bone you just wipe and wipe and wipe until it's very smooth and it comes out perfect every time if you take your time and you're careful.
Just picked up pottery again after 20 years...loving it. Great vids, inspiring stuff. Any chance you can 'like in Blue Peter' show in the video what the finished product looks like fired. Be good to se how they try out with the different glazes. Just a thought. Am keeping practising. Toddle pip
Hi Simon. I wonder if you can help? I used to have good success blowing ash on my pots, getting that nice toasty look, for some reason the ash isn't showing up on my pots these day's, even in heavy reduction, any thoughts would be appreciated .
Mr. Leach, Have you ever tried using the ashes of burned paper instead of straight from the wood itself? I was wondering about using burned junk mail possibly? Thanks for your time! God Bless!!!
I can attest to the peroxide in the ear, though I do a 50/50 mix of peroxide and alcohol, and I only leave it in for about 2 minutes. I don't know if the virus goes in through the ear or not, but I do know that the ear and the throat are connected via tubes, and whether it comes in through the ear, or up from the throat, the virus does settle in that tube. Clearing it out can stop a cold/flu before it begins in earnest. If you already have it, it can reduce the recovery time by using the peroxide/alcohol. And if it's already over, but you have a lingering cough, it will get rid of the lingering cough.
As I teach private lessons in my studio, we often deal with the fact that we are producing a handmade, original artwork that in our case is usable ( mugs , bowls, etc). The general population is so used to seeing machine produced items , that when we see a slightly uneven rim, or a tiny wobble many people ( who are not potters) think that there is a mistake. Fortunately for most of those I meet, they understand that there is quite often a mark of the artist in their work. No real answers to the question of touching up your finger marks. I suppose some people like that because it shows the mark of an artist and is handmade . However, there is also something to be said about seeing a handmade pot that is so well made that , the comment is , " you made all these yourself?" To each his own.
I never did try it as I have never owned an electric kiln. Oxidised results are generally a bit uninteresting unless one has specially adapted glazes.I don't think it would hurt the elements, it works best at cone 10, most with electric kiln dont go above cone 6 I don't think ?
You have shown us a bit about how you've recycled a few old electric kilns using your weed burners, but I'm not sure you've ever shown your main reduction kiln. Would you consider a tour and discussion of it?
霧吹き、8years, old post, but works, a atomizer with dispenser..very good idea. I use a cheese shaker but, your application will be more effective. Also, use laundry’s starch to hold ashes.
Simon, I really like this tutorial...I have a couple of questions. 1) Will different wood ashes create different colors? 2) can those different wood ashes be combined to create patterns...such as what happens when you use two or more glazes that you over lap? I understand that the ash will run if it is two thick. Is it manageable so that you could make it a little thicker on the shoulder so that it will run down the piece on purpose?
From tests I have seen, wood ash in general all gives a greenish color. In Phil Rogers book on ash glazes it shows that pine ash is a little darker green than the others. If you have a glaze with more flux in it then it would probably be runny. Flux is a term for a group of many things you can put into a glaze to lower the melting point. So if you wanted you could spray it on as he did and then use a glaze on the top of the pot that will run. You may also have to experiment with washed and unwashed ash in your recipe.
No problem. If you are really interested in learning more about the subject I would suggest getting the ash glazes book I mentioned in my other post. That's where pretty much all my info is coming from. I will say though that not all ash glazes are green but many of them are. Nuka, for example, is a white glaze. In the book the author did tests of different ash on a test tile without anything else mixed in I believe and they were all green but pine was darker. I imagine different ash by itself probably won't make a huge amount of difference as far as color but you could always try layering different ash glazes. How the pots are fired and the atmosphere in the kiln can make a significant difference too.
Simon, good Sir, yet another great video. Thank you for sharing .I'm all in favor of leaving the marks of the potter's fingers of her/his work in this real world now and forever, when you dip and glaze/decorate for final firing or otherwise on any piece of pottery, or whatever, that is your prerogative and your mark at the end of the day....We are so made aware of the perfect finish we should all strive for in films, advertising etc., due to the CGI and CNC requirements and demands of any current production and the like,but this isn't the real world, at the end of the day, its all made up of a myriad of imperfections---- I think this is this real world, that of the human race. We just have to live with it, that's being a human being.( Well in my eyes anyway!!) I'm not sure if I tuned in to one of my favorite Potter's for solutions/ advice or my local Apothecary?? Ha ah , only joking!! Simon!! Yes!! Hydrogen Peroxide!! Not only used as the propulsion fuel for the famous James Bond Jet Pack seen in the the film Thunderball 1965, but I have used the solution just applied with a cotton bud to remove splinters from the palm of my hand, yep worked brilliantly, they just eased out of my skin( other youtube users, use on your own medic or doctor's advice please!!) Thanks though Simon!! will try the hydrogen peroxide when I feel a bit of a cold or sniffs on the way!! Cheers Good Sir!!
Thank you for a thousand guiding clips, your book and your philosophy. Merry Christmas and I hope your kiln is wonderful.
If you do want to take them out what I do is I take a large damp sponge and slowly remove all the glaze from a bottom inch or less slowly slowly slowly wiping until you finally see the bottom skin of the pot all the way around the perimeter of the pot you let it dry a little bit and then you re dip it just passed the old glaze line. At that point you get a glaze line obviously where it's double thick. After it is dried completely 100% dry as a bone you just wipe and wipe and wipe until it's very smooth and it comes out perfect every time if you take your time and you're careful.
I learned so much from you lately. You're sharing real secrets. Thanks.
Nagyon sokat tanultam tőled mostanában. Igazi titkokat osztasz meg; köszönöm.
Thank you!
Just picked up pottery again after 20 years...loving it. Great vids, inspiring stuff. Any chance you can 'like in Blue Peter' show in the video what the finished product looks like fired. Be good to se how they try out with the different glazes. Just a thought. Am keeping practising. Toddle pip
Hi Simon. I wonder if you can help? I used to have good success blowing ash on my pots, getting that nice toasty look, for some reason the ash isn't showing up on my pots these day's, even in heavy reduction, any thoughts would be appreciated .
Mr. Leach,
Have you ever tried using the ashes of burned paper instead of straight from the wood itself?
I was wondering about using burned junk mail possibly?
Thanks for your time! God Bless!!!
I can attest to the peroxide in the ear, though I do a 50/50 mix of peroxide and alcohol, and I only leave it in for about 2 minutes.
I don't know if the virus goes in through the ear or not, but I do know that the ear and the throat are connected via tubes, and whether it comes in through the ear, or up from the throat, the virus does settle in that tube. Clearing it out can stop a cold/flu before it begins in earnest. If you already have it, it can reduce the recovery time by using the peroxide/alcohol. And if it's already over, but you have a lingering cough, it will get rid of the lingering cough.
As I teach private lessons in my studio, we often deal with the fact that we are producing a handmade, original artwork that in our case is usable ( mugs , bowls, etc). The general population is so used to seeing machine produced items , that when we see a slightly uneven rim, or a tiny wobble many people ( who are not potters) think that there is a mistake. Fortunately for most of those I meet, they understand that there is quite often a mark of the artist in their work. No real answers to the question of touching up your finger marks. I suppose some people like that because it shows the mark of an artist and is handmade . However, there is also something to be said about seeing a handmade pot that is so well made that , the comment is , " you made all these yourself?" To each his own.
Ever tried the wood ash with oxidation? Would it damage elements?
I never did try it as I have never owned an electric kiln. Oxidised results are generally a bit uninteresting unless one has specially adapted glazes.I don't think it would hurt the elements, it works best at cone 10, most with electric kiln dont go above cone 6 I don't think ?
Hi Simon, I like to see the pitchers after their are glazed fired. Please.
Where can you buy one of those sprayers?
You have shown us a bit about how you've recycled a few old electric kilns using your weed burners, but I'm not sure you've ever shown your main reduction kiln. Would you consider a tour and discussion of it?
pretty sure its the same kiln.........
霧吹き、8years, old post, but works, a atomizer with dispenser..very good idea. I use a cheese shaker but, your application will be more effective. Also, use laundry’s starch to hold ashes.
Simon, I really like this tutorial...I have a couple of questions. 1) Will different wood ashes create different colors? 2) can those different wood ashes be combined to create patterns...such as what happens when you use two or more glazes that you over lap? I understand that the ash will run if it is two thick. Is it manageable so that you could make it a little thicker on the shoulder so that it will run down the piece on purpose?
From tests I have seen, wood ash in general all gives a greenish color. In Phil Rogers book on ash glazes it shows that pine ash is a little darker green than the others. If you have a glaze with more flux in it then it would probably be runny. Flux is a term for a group of many things you can put into a glaze to lower the melting point. So if you wanted you could spray it on as he did and then use a glaze on the top of the pot that will run. You may also have to experiment with washed and unwashed ash in your recipe.
AJohnson0325 thanks so much for that information. it is good.
No problem. If you are really interested in learning more about the subject I would suggest getting the ash glazes book I mentioned in my other post. That's where pretty much all my info is coming from. I will say though that not all ash glazes are green but many of them are. Nuka, for example, is a white glaze. In the book the author did tests of different ash on a test tile without anything else mixed in I believe and they were all green but pine was darker. I imagine different ash by itself probably won't make a huge amount of difference as far as color but you could always try layering different ash glazes. How the pots are fired and the atmosphere in the kiln can make a significant difference too.
Do you make your own wax recipe as well?
I always leave the finger marks on shino's but it doesn't work so well or look as aesthetic on tenmoku wares weird!!
....thats 'turn out with the different glazes' oops
Simon, good Sir, yet another great video. Thank you for sharing .I'm all in favor of leaving the marks of the potter's fingers of her/his work in this real world now and forever, when you dip and glaze/decorate for final firing or otherwise on any piece of pottery, or whatever, that is your prerogative and your mark at the end of the day....We are so made aware of the perfect finish we should all strive for in films, advertising etc., due to the CGI and CNC requirements and demands of any current production and the like,but this isn't the real world, at the end of the day, its all made up of a myriad of imperfections---- I think this is this real world, that of the human race. We just have to live with it, that's being a human being.( Well in my eyes anyway!!)
I'm not sure if I tuned in to one of my favorite Potter's for solutions/ advice or my local Apothecary?? Ha ah , only joking!! Simon!! Yes!! Hydrogen Peroxide!! Not only used as the propulsion fuel for the famous James Bond Jet Pack seen in the the film Thunderball 1965, but I have used the solution just applied with a cotton bud to remove splinters from the palm of my hand, yep worked brilliantly, they just eased out of my skin( other youtube users, use on your own medic or doctor's advice please!!) Thanks though Simon!! will try the hydrogen peroxide when I feel a bit of a cold or sniffs on the way!! Cheers Good Sir!!