How to Apply OSMO PolyX Oil
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- Опубліковано 7 лют 2025
- This is how I apply Osmo PolyX Hardwax oil in order to achieve an even, natural, durable surface. This finish is very easy to apply if you follow the basic rules I cover in this video.
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🔸 Osmo Hard Wax Polyx Oil
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If you found this video useful, don't forget to press the *LIKE* button. It really helps me out!
Watch me prepare the surface here: ua-cam.com/video/8sAu_yPm_Vg/v-deo.html&t
Can you apply it with a polisher too give it more of a shine? Or will it leave swirl marks
How come you used this instead of their 'top oil' which is categorised as food safe? Is there much diffence between the two? Cheers
Your link in the description to the oil is a dead link.
What finish did you use?
Thanks.
Hello, I applied 2nd coat of osmo on my table as per the instructions on the tin, so with out wiping off the oil after applying 🫢
It dried with no stickiness but looks quite patchy. What can I do? Should I try to do a 3rd coat applying as per your video? Would that make a difference? Thanks
@@blakkno666 did you get an answer?
Hi Matt! Great videos! I'm a professional finisher. I've used OSMO for years. The easiest way to apply both coats QUICK is with a metal scraper. It completely changed my life. You waste less OSMO in the process as well. OSMO sells a scraper for this purpose but I just use a 6" wall board knife. Keep it up, your killin' it dude.
Thanks Gregory sounds like a great idea. Is there anyway you can tell us your next few steps after applying it, assuming your not just leaving after that? If you are that sounds incredible. Either way some words or a video would help a lot of people I’m sure. I’ve been working with this finish for probably last 10 tables and besides applying it I have yet to be completely sold, I’m sure it’s just my lack of knowledge.
@@Joestacemazjojo Hi Joe - Pour on OSMO. Trowel it around the surface you are finishing. Trowel any excess off the edge into the OSMO can. Take BOUNTY paper towels (no other brand work as well) and buff (in tight fast circles) off the OSMO until you are happy with the appearance. Let sit for the 24 hrs or whatever it says on can. Come back the next day scuff the surface with a maroon pad (3M 7447) and repeat the steps above for the second coat. One thing to note with this finish is the magic happens on the second coat. That first coat is just laying a foundation for the first coat. Hope this helps!
Hi , just saw your video and I want to know that can I use this oil on carrom board surface are for better smooth ? And Is It waterproof liquid ?plz reply . Thanks
I would not use this finish for a game that relies on the surface being slick. This finish doesn’t dry hard enough for that application. Try a centurion wood coatings clear - 2800 series Catalyze it at 15%and spray it out. You could roll it out as well with a foam roller but don’t over work the coating.
I just tried the trowel method with a plastic bondo. It worked great! A lot easier than scotch bright pads. I also didn't use bounty towels. My normal big box store blue workshop towels worked perfectly
Dude! (Californian for "Mate!") You are one of my favorite woodworking teachers! Thank you for this video and all of your great videos (sharpening chisels was particularly useful). So grateful!
Tell your mum that her kitchen is gorgeous! The countertop and cabinets are absolutely lovely!! Thank you for enlightening us with this video.
Good video. One thing I like about your instructional videos is that you’re still new enough at this stuff that you cover of the mistakes that newbies are going to make (like in this one where you were really clear about how to tell when you’ve spread the finish far enough). I find a lot of the older woodworkers can miss these tips out because they’ve lost that beginner perspective and these things are obvious to them.
Had a hard time trying to wing it. I wouldnt call myself a master but ive been a wood worker most of my life. Had an excelent craftsman turn me on to osmo so i tried it. Ive always used poly for most of my projects and tried using osmo the same way and as you can probably guess it was a fail. I just got those same pads you use in the mail today so tomorrow i will be following your instructions and im super excited to try this stuff the way you teach us in this video. Thanks so much for your time putting this video together. It was exactly what i had hoped to find. Thank you! Btw you do amazing work. Us old craftsmen are a dying breed, im so happy there are young people such as yourself to carry on this amazing craft. Thanks again. Ill be looking for more of your videos the next time im on here. Great work son!!
Joey
Veltree Products
@@veltreeproducts4645 I’d love to know if it works for you any differently. I’ve failed, or it’s failed me. Water just soaks through with my tests so I haven’t used it on a project yet.
Matt, found your video while searching for the best finish for a patio bar top. Having spent the better part of an afternoon watching numerous videos I was about to give up and came across yours. You made my day. I now feel that I have found the product and how to finish my large slab, 8', of live edge cedar. Looking forward to having a beer on it and giving a salute to you. Cheers
Super helpful, Matt. I ran this by my grandfather-in-law, a cabinet maker and french polisher for some 60 years. He was very impressed with your work and advice.
I noticed you are working straight out of the tin, which is something I used to do until an old painter and decorator told me to always decant into a work kettle - mainly so you do not contaminate your finish material (also it helps keep the paint brush wet and workable - not applicable here) and I have noticed a marked improvement in the finished work. Also means you can put the lid back on the finish material and therefore it does not dry out. I have some OSMO, but have not tried it yet - but this has inspired me to get on with it! Great video, Thanks.
I was about to use Osmo Polyx on a bathroom wood countertop and found your application video! Really helpful, will follow along. Although I must say I am a bit surprised you didn't mention the danger of spontaneous combustion of the rags and pads used for the application. It is written on the can and I've heard a lot of stories where rags discarded improperly caught on fire a few hours after use and almost burnt house or shop down... just a word of caution we should follow the guidelines for properly disposing of these. On their spec sheets it says "Materials such as rags used with this product may begin to burn by themselves. After use, put rags in water or lay flat to dry, then discard." Just an FIY but great video loved it and will def. watch other of your videos🙌
Watched this as I waited to my worktop to dry:
Hadn’t worn gloves, didn’t stir it, used a roller and applied it thick…..
Quickly buffed it all back with a microfibre. Thanks for the content
I been using Osmo on my kitchen worktop for 3 years now and I am really pleased with it. It protects wood for a long period of time and keeps that feeling of real wood under ur hands. Top oil👌
This is a wonderful video, Matt. I am using Osmo products for the first time and found your video to be extremely informative on how to prepare and apply Osmo PolyX Hardwax oil.
What a lovely matt finish.
What a lovely finish Matt.
Matt, just followed this to the letter (including the pad disposal technique! 🙂) and has come out amazingly well. Thanks for the video!
Thank you for this video. Did exactly as instructed. 1st coat on. In the morning 2nd and tomorrow evening 3rd. Using 3068 natural matte.
Just made 3 custom pieces for a customer in the US, first time using this I tried a tester piece - after watching this realise how badly I have applied it!
Totally saved my bacon watching this man - subscribed and look forward to more :)
Great job Matt, doing a desk tonight! Very informative! Much appreciated.
Great video, I just followed this process to apply the first coat on Hevea butcherblock I had already stained. Everything went as planned but I ended up using the 3m Final Fishing Pads (says they replace 0000 steel wood) since that is all the big box hardware store had, just cut them into squares. I also used a stir stick to mix up my Osmo Polyx and instead of dipping the pad into the Osmo and cross-contaminating I would pull the stir stick out and dribble a good amount onto the pad. It also kept me in the habit of stirring the Osmo.
Just finished sanding and re-oiling my kitchen centre Island. Thanks to your video's and advice it was super easy and the result was amazing. Thanks again.
When I revive the wood handle of an old tool, or my wood kitchen utensils, I've been refinishing them with Polyx Oil. And recently I reconditioned an old cutting board made made with walnut, cherry, and maple, and since it's food-safe, applied three layers of Polyx Oil as a last step.
hi..I got to use osmowax after watching your video.Thank you for being an inspiration to me.
Thanks Matt, You just solved my issue of how I was going to finish our large dining table.
Really wish I had watched this before I applied the first coat with a brush! Second coat goes on tonight (with a nonabrasive pad) after denibbing. Thanks!
Wow, your woodwork is absolutely beautiful!! Very helpful video, thank you 🙏🏻
Just did an osmo coat. This was massively helpful. Cheers matt
That's a great tip for disposing the pads and gloves, I've been doing it for years and I feel not people know about it
It's a surgeons trick to keep from touching bloody gloves.
Hi Matt. Thanks for a great video. It gave me the confidence to try it on the Laundry today. After sanding it back to 180 I just applied the first coat very thinly with the white pad. It looks a million dollars already. Going to apply the second coat tomorrow. Looking forward to the finished result. Cheers from Down Under.
Dear Matt,
these white pads are not as Abrasive as the other Scotchpads, but they tend to make Scratches all over your surface. it is much better to use these in grain direction.
then, use more of the Osmo Waxoil. after applying it with the scotchpad you can take the Glossy spots of with a soft cloth, this makes your surface even softer ans Smoother.
Kind Regrads
So to be clear, you're saying buff it with oil on the pad and wipe if off the excess with a rag?
@@Thomas998822 yes, this helps to create a smoother,more durable and more waterresistant top layer. I made lot of kitchen countertops and worksurfaces this way. Since the pores are filled the top stays cleaner and is more resistant to water.
I tried Osmo 3-4 years ago with mixed results, not understanding it. After watching your video, I have fallen in love with Osmo! Without a doubt the best finish I have ever done! Thin is the key to beautiful grain. I have used many finishes, my favorite being Waterlox in wipe on wipe off thin coats. Osmo with the nonabrasive pads was amazing on a Sapele top is just finished....client loves it! Thx for Vid!
That was exactly the explainer I was looking for. Thank you for clarity.
nicely explained dude. After my first experiences with Osmo, even though i thaught i was going thin, i was still apply too thick a layer.......You really do only need a thin layer and work it in....but i love the stuff.
Hi !! 😉I wanted to know how to finish a wood and epoxy table, I saw some who use it and I wanted to understand how to do it. thank you so much
I worked very specifically with OSMO PolyX oils for a couple of years day in, day out. I absolutely love the stuff for woods with natural glow. My favourite schedule for those was somewhat wasteful, however very good for a consistent finish whilst maintaining chatoyance; first coat is a flood so that the wood can "take" as much as it wants, followed by a complete wipe dry with several clean cloths until the oil is no longer being removed. From there it's exactly what you're doing with many ultra-thin applications. This approach works with the matting agents, but is less useful. Products like PolyX are very flexible, difficult to fuck up and very easy to recover. I absolutely love the stuff.
Tristan.. regarding the first coat being heavy, saturating the top in the osmo.. how long do you leave the osmo on the hardwoods surface before you wipe off the excess ? 10mins. 15mins? ..
@@antb3334 That all depends to be fair. If the tin isn't fresh, the oil tends to be a bit thicker so it ends up becoming "grabbier" wiping off the excess. 10mins is great as long as the wood wets up. Most of the time, I start removing oil before I've even finished the full initial application, especially on less simple workpieces like table tops. For those a rubber squeegee can move oil around during that wetting to make the most of excess. Like I say, it's super easy stuff to work with and difficult to get wrong. I just finished up a Zebrano and white Oak piece with matte PolyX, buffing in the initial flood with grey Scotchbrite. The Oak looks like you could chew on it like a Hob-Nob 😀
@@TristanJCumpole you mentioned regarding the first coat to go heavy .. ‘so the wood can take as much as it wants’ right?.. I spoke to Osmo and they said it was counter productive to remove any if brushed on and just to leave it to soak in and dry/cure over night. I experimented and did two fairly heavy coats and left them over night on both occasions and the wood continued to absorb the osmo over night .. so isn’t it the case that the longer you leave the product on the more the wood will take?
On the flip side, do you use much pressure when ‘wiping off the excess?’
Thanks ..
@@antb3334 It's not a rule by any means, which is a positive with PolyX. Perhaps I should change my wording from, "as much as the wood wants to take" to, "as much as the wood needs to thoroughly wet". Once the surface is saturated enough, the initial flood can be wiped back within say, half an hour, not overnight. Subsequent coats may still sink in depending on the wood. Ash likes to drink it. Similar to polymerised oil finishes, the initial flood can help to close off the surface and reduce how much subsequent coats sink. The beauty of this stuff is that it is hard to go wrong. You can develop habits and techniques or just hammer away at it and still end up with an admirable result. Brushing on a thick coat can leave runs and drips that need cutting back around complex pieces; wiping back an initial flood is a way to work around gravity. I've even dammed workpieces with Blu-tack and inflated balloons in cutouts because of that! Do what works, be imaginative and have a game plan. Generally it will work.
@@TristanJCumpole nice reply man.. I guess I I’ll do the 30mins as suggested and then wipe the excess on both the first coat and top coat. That should give the product long enough to do what it needs to. Thanks
Polyx is also my favourite oil. I do a similar method. The first coat however I put on fairly thick after a good cleaning with white spirit. Then thin coats afterwards.
Osmo is a great finish and probably even easier to apply than shown in the video. It is incredibly forgiving so give it a go. Looks amazing on Aussie hardwoods too.
this video is super helpful and much appreciated.
I've been woodworking for years (even owning my own business) and the tip of NOT sanding to a high grit is huge. I think this is going to change the way my finishes turn out. I must be dense because I've never seen this suggestion anywhere, and I usually go to 320, and it's definitely cloudy but ok once dry.
Thanks for the helpful instruction.
Can you reverse the finish (open the pores up again) if you used too high of a grit. By going over it with a lower grit paper and taking off that surface?
Thank you for this video. There was a lot of useful information and answered to my questions.
Brilliant video. Just what I needed ahead of my first cabinet build. Off now to watch more of your stuff. 👍 👍
Nice job Matt - and a good trick with the gloves disposing of the pad!
I cut a piece of the white pad and stuck onto my orbital sander....worked AMAZING!....had to pull some off the grip after but wow does it shine up but use low speed
Great video Matt, this is exactly what i was looking for :)
Where do you get the non abrasive pads
Thanks mate
Probably should of watched this before I applied the oil, live and learn
Very informative video Matt. Gotta tell ya, I've seen the stuff around but I've been a little hesitant about using it. Kind of afraid I'd screw it up or something. Especially if i have 20 or more hours into a piece of furniture. But you actually explained it so well that I'm gonna give it a go. Thanks again matt
Excellent Video Matt used your sanding technique on our kitchen oak work tops - then used Danish oil ...took it back to 6 years ago when we first had kitchen installed....Thank You for giving me the confidence to do this ! .....just hope we can get this Covid issue resolved soon otherwise I’m looking at some exposed treated timber roof Beams and wondering how to do something with them
Very good instruction in a pretty kitchen too. Thank you
Absolutely brilliant, off to search for the pads you used. But wish I’d seen this 6 years ago before using danish oil, aka thin polyurethane varnish, have hated my worktops ever since. Hope I can get them back to what I thought they should have been like now. Thanks.
Great video, afterwards I used Osmo on a homemade cajon drum and it is beautiful. I used the abrasive free pads instead of just a rag which I had originally planned and I do like the burnishing effect with the matt clear I used. Thanks.
Thanks for the thorough and timely video. I have just finished a coffee table and have a can of Osmo and some white pads ready to go. Just needed a quick google to confirm how to apply and your video comes up. Perfect timing. Subscribed too.
Thanks for this Matt. Applied this today and it was a breeze following your lead. 👌🏻
Hi Matt, try using Festool Vlies white pads on an ETS (or, I imagine a Rotex, but I have not tried that yet), use a manual pad (or cloth) to wipe along the grain after minutes. Much less hard work, and an even better finish.
As a painter, I'd either use a slightly stiffer spalter brush or a semi foam roller to apply finish.
That or just use a rag.
You say you wouldn't use a roller, when I say I would, I know I'm throwing it away after, and a roller does get it to a nice regular thin layer.
Osmo makes a extra thin version, that is for exotic hardwoods. If you go to the uk osmo website, it even states that you should use the extra thin for exotic hardwoods, and the normal polyx for the likes of oak and ash ect.
Have a small box of ironwood to finish so thanks for this
I’m in the middle of preparing a wooden table, so this Video was very thorough and well worth watching
If applied too thickly and you get terrible sticky patches, how do you get them off. That’s the mistake I’ve made before viewing your video. Cheers really looking forward to solving this one .
I just cut couple of rags from an old t-shirt etc. I use one rag to rub the oilwax into the wood keeping the rag wet. The second rag is used to wipe any excess oil out of the surface and to wipe the surface almost dry. When the second rag starts to get too wet I typically start to uset it to apply the oilwax and get a new rag to wipe the excess of. Allways had a perfect surface and not spending my money on the expensive osmo branded accessories.
Practical tips and good content. Thanks.
Wash your hands with shampoo!
While WFH i fell down a UA-cam rabbit hole and ended up watching a video on why some guy never washes his hair (i CANNOT concentrate!). Anyway, later that evening i wash washing my hands like Lady Macbeth after having used Osmo oil and I remembered this dude, "shampoo just strips all the OIL from your head" so I gave it a go and it worked a treat! thought i'd pass on the tip.
Happy woodworking, all.
Thank you for this mate you explain everything Simply and are easy to listen too and helped me a lot with my kitchen tops...Peace
I’m going to try this on a dining room table. Wish me luck. Good video.
You'll need luck. I'm going to cover my osmo table with a table cloth because it looks awful. So hard to get a smooth finish and so hard to rub it out so thin. I want a different product but just cannot get good advice for not darkening wood.
Surprisingly interesting and definitely helpful. Well done again, Matt.
Helpful Matt, thank you. Is it sacrilegious/inadvisable to put a polyurethane varnish on top? I ask because, while I'd much prefer to just use OSMO, I have a wooden dining table which I'd previously OSMO'd but is now full of stains etc from cooking spills, oil, and paint stains from the kids doing artwork. It's a lovely beech or birch table but I'm thinking of giving it a heavy-duty layer of protection for a few years. I know it won't look so good but I've a feeling that I may eventually have to sand my way through the table in repeat coatings if I use OSMO alone.
Discovered Polyx Oil by way of a woodworker I know, and she gave me the tail end of a can to play with, which had a lot of hardened stuff inside like the skin you disposed of. Would you know if the hardened Osmo would dissolve in oil or some solvent and be restored to something close to its original condition?
Good work on the butcher block.... but your mom’s kitchen is lovely!😍
Hi, wished I had seen this video before I used osmo on my oak beams outside ,I slapped it on with a brush thinking it would dry and soak in and more is better, but it's all cloudy and waxy 😱
It looks a rite mess, any tips to knock it back and get the excess off so I can start again would be much appreciated,
Thanks Steve
Great insight, no more poly urethane!
Extremely helpful video Matt, thank you for taking the time to go into such detail. I am watching having sadly over applied to my parquet floor, after a week of sanding and prep. I’m now back to second attempt having sanded all back to level starting point. Wish me luck 🍀
grantod1, What was the symptom of over applied? Did it not cure? Feel waxy? Collect dust? That's what I'm getting on a cherry dresser.
@@michaeloneal10 Hi Michael, all of the above essentially. I learnt the hard way to use the white pads to apply as sparingly as possible. In the end I re-sanded and used the "extra thin" Osmo, that sorted the problem. I think it really depends on the timber applied to, mine was to an older hardwood floor, freshly sanded but very hard wood, so the extra thin penetrated better it seemed for me.
Hi Matt, great video, do you have a link for the non abrasive pads please?
Thank you for this. Proof indeed that I was applying it WAY too thickly as some areas wer staying shiny compared to others ...groan. Brush application is very hard to stretch as much as the pads.
Yep, I’m off to buy some. Great informative video. Thank you.
Matt I really enjoy your videos and have learned so much from you. I am refinishing a 122 year old oak table. I have stripped it clean and need to stain it medium brown. If I use a Verathane Oil Stain on the oak and let it dry good, will the Osmo Satin Clear adhere to the surface? thanks
Great video; very helpful!
Great video, Matt. Thank you.
This is an excellent tutorial...I shall use again
Thanks a lot, super informative video.
Wish I had seen this before doing part of my floor which now has a very cloudy/ inconsistent look. Probably because I did not spread the oil evenly enough… has been resting for 2 days now and when looking against the light one can hardly see the pattern of the wood.
Are there any fixes to this other than grinding the floor down and starting all over? Heard about ammonia cleaning but not sure that will do it any good. Very grateful for any tips :)
As far as I know you needn't strip lacquer off of a surface to re-apply/touch it up. I've always just sanded the scuffed area and sprayed more lacquer, the solvent in the spray does all of the work for you.
Matt thanks for the video. I’m going to use Osmo polyx satin on some mirror frames I’m building out of Ash. I’d like to use gel stain to slightly darken the Ash and highlight chamfers along the inside edge. Seems like I should apply the gel first, let it dry thoroughly the apply Osmo. Do you see any problem with that approach?
Thanks again,
Mike
Great video. Osmo recommends using their top oil on kitchen worktops. What’s the difference between that & the poly X oil for a worktop?
Hello, I applied 2nd coat of osmo on my table as per the instructions on the tin, so with out wiping off the oil after applying 🫢
It dried with no stickiness but looks quite patchy. What can I do? Should I try to do a 3rd coat applying as per your video? Would that make a difference? Thanks
I have a large dining room cherry table that needs to be much darker and match other pieces in the room. What product type should be used to stain or dye the stripped and sanded top prior to the Osmo?
Second question is: does the Osmo withstand hot serving plates that are set on hot pads. The previous tung oil finish showed signs of clouding in the areas where the hot pads were placed.
When you remove the spent pads inside the glove like that, are you putting the whole thing in a water filled metal can? I usually keep everything separate so I can lay it all out to dry before throwing in the trash..
Is this a suitable finish for the cabinets as well? How often will it need to be reapplied? Are there colors from which to choose?
Great video, really helpful 👍
Thank you for all the guidance plus WoodCraft in Casselberry Florida recommend watching this. Thank you.
Thanks for the very informative video. Quick question - what’s cure time after you finished your last coats - how long should I wait or or what’s the suggested wait time before being able to use the surface.
Hi. I have the same question. The tin advises to wait up to 14 days before placing rugs. When can I use my kitchen worktop normally?
Hi Matt! I am not familiar with this product. I did notice that you applied it across the grain. Is this the normal application? Thanks
Very interesting video series. I’ve never tried anything like OSMO but it looks like something I need to try.
There'll be no turning back once you've used this stuff - it's 'expensive' but goes such a long way so is actually very economical.
What do you use to wipe down the surface after you have sanded it between coats? Do you just use a clean rag or do you use a tack cloth?
Excellent video, thanks for sharing
Awesome video as always Matt! Ordered some non abrasive pads and the oil to start work tomorrow. I was curious, is this safe to bin or do you need it to dry out first. I’ve seen some other products can combust?
Love the video - how many applications would you expect to get from that large tin?
Hi Matt is it possible to apply it if a wood dye is used first. Cheers Dave
@@daviddickinson6346 I've just done exactly that finishing a gunstock. I applied a heavy cut of red aniline dye and then Osmo Polyx. It does seal off the dye and I have no liftoff coming up after the first coat. I'm sure you've moved on by now but this is for anyone else looking for an answer.
Thinking about using this on my terracotta floor . What do you think? Osmo say that it can be used on terracotta but I have not been able to find anyone who has actually used it on their terracotta floor
Hey Matt. First of all I really enjoy watching all your videos. You make amazing content but instructional and enjoyable with some humour. Luv it. I have a question I hope you can help me with. I’m building a garden wishing well out of cedar for my mom. It’s turning out very nice. What finish would you use on it. It’s obviously going to be outdoors. We get hot humid summers and cold snowy winters. It has so many inside corners that using a film finish like epoxy and spar varnish would be too hard to sand and reapply when that time comes. So through my research I choose Osmo uv protection oil. I was stuck between that and general finishes outdoor oil. What would you use. I like the Osmo because I can easily reapply it ever year
After replacing the lid on the can, turn it upside down. This will form an airtight seal to the can and prevent a skin forming.
If this works, I've never done it, it's a great tip!
Sounds like an old school trick
Great work! I will have to give it a try in the future!
I haven't installed my counter yet. Should I be doing both sides and if so how do apply it to both sides at the same time as a obviously cant flip the counter when wet.
Hi, I am currently re doing the inside of a yacht. The solid teak and teak face ply was in places badly water marked. i have stripped the old varnish and epoxy finish using Nitromors paint stripper.
I used a carbide scraper and have now achieved a good bare finish. I have watched with great interest your video, I am about to start sanding and have always used a higher grit usually 400, but will on your recommendation use 180.
My question, as you've probably guessed is will the Osmo be satisfactory for a marine environment? Remember this is only the interior, but there will be occasions when wet salty sailors are moving around the cabin.
Chris
Matt you didn’t mention what you prep it with once sanded? Damp cloth? Or white spirit? Please advise?