How To Coat Your Offset Smoker with Linseed Oil
Вставка
- Опубліковано 12 тра 2020
- We get asked a LOT at Workhorse Pits as to how we get the beautiful patina or RAW look of our offset smokers. Here's a quick Quetorial.
Be very careful! The rags, cloth etc used when applying linseed oil will combust and cause a fire. Store the used rags or cloth in a bucket full of water outdoors.
These are the smokers and other live fire tools we build:
Commercial Offsets by Primitive Pits: www.primitivepits.com
Backyard offsets by Workhorse Pits www.workhorsepits.com
Workhorse Pits Instagram: / workhorsepits
Primitive Pits Instagram: / primitivepits
![What Kind Of Clear Coat To Use For A Smoker [PitMaster Secrets Podcast: ep. 3-8]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/lNfavyqqrtE/mqdefault.jpg)
Very nice! I use linseed oil on tools I forge, but I usually just rub my offset down with brisket fat cap trimmings. After I finish smoking, and while the vessel is still hot, just rub the fat on it. Keeps it beautiful and black. It, too, will polymerize to provide a protective coating.
Great to see another vid JD. thanks for this one. I’ve been wondering about oil and other offset maintenance questions for awhile now.
Good video. Welcome back.
That pit looks sooooo good :) Thanks for the video as I've wondered if there was anything special involved in the finish.
Great stuff...cannot wait for my 1975 to arrive!!!
JD, wow what an awesome looking smoker and it functions as a bbq making beast. Super cool man.
I keep watching this video just to see the 1969 model I have on order. So damn excited to finally get it. Can’t wait!
The smoker looks awesome, Thanks for the video
Thanks for watching
I have a 50 gallon commercial offset that came powder finished and painted. Lots of rust on it. What do you think is the best course of action? I'm planning to sand/wire wheel the rust away and then season with linseed as you did here. Thoughts? And how can I strip the paint?
Thank you! Glad to see the videos rolling out again.
Man I love your videos! I’d love to get ideas from you about my smoker. I have a 20” Horizon Marshall which is a lot like the Yoder you did the mod video on. I’ve been thinking about the same mods for mine. My question is what height did you make the exhaust. And what the inside diameter?
Just got my 1957. What a beauty of a beast it is. My neighbours and the delivery guys had a laugh that it is the smallest one you make. Took 4 of us to get it off the pallet so I could bolt the castors on. I guess I’ll need to get one of these torches. Regarding the firebox- wouldn’t it get hot enough from a cook to set the oil if I coated it with linseed before firing it up? I can see that the main cooking chamber might not get hot enough, but thinking the firebox would, and maybe it would make sense to do the firebox more frequently while cooking?
keep these vids coming!!!! please
Sure plan to! Thanks!!
Question JD, my current pit has the old school paint, of corse the fire box the paint burns off, would this technique work instead of repainting the area over and over again?
what happens if you apply it on cold steel?? or while fire is going on the firebox????
Can I give my Old County the patina look ? And I can’t wait to coat it with linseed oil, I love your channel, and thank you so much for all the awesome info!
Go for it!
JD, I would like to see more on the fluid dynamics studies, and how the positioning of the fire within the fire box effects the cook please.
I am going to go on a limb and say they paid a lot of money for this information and might keep it sealed in a safe lol. I'd love to know myself.
@@darrenc3895 You are correct, but we share via our products. They work!
@@Quetorials They do sir. I purchased the 1969 and after 20 or so cooks, I am beyond amazed. It is so much better than my Yoder I actually sold it after a few cooks.
@@Quetorials Need an LOL comment button...
Great video!👈👍👋
thanks Sean!
Could you do the reverse and apply the linseed oil after cleaning and then hit it with the torch?
would you recommend linseed oil for a cheaper offset like a oklahoma joe pit?
Hey my friends where do I go to get the prices on the BBQ Pits. Thanks
Love the smokers. They look really good.
I feel unnecessarily compelled to make a clarification as no one asked and I'm sure no one cares. I trust its an expression at this point, but there is no actual moisture in the steel. The moisture you're seeing is a byproduct of the combustion process of the torch. I've never tried it but the interwebs say you can watch the back side of the metal being heated and it should not display any moisture condensation.
Can I put linseed oil in a pump jug and mist cooker and fire box??
I’ve been using this exact oil on my smoker for a long time! Works great! I leave it outside in the rain and zero rust. Every 4 or 5 times I smoke something, I put another light coat on while the smoker is nice and hot
Yep. I like oil better than powder coat.
What do you use as an applicator when the smoker is still hot?
@@jjmorgan6 just a rag. You can put a glove on if the rag gets too hot
Thank you @@longhornhockey13 I actually completed the process today and it was phenomenal.
How often should that process be done.
How often do you estimate this will have to be reapplied over time? If the grill is kept under a covered deck.
I have one I have not touched in two years. Of course I missed a spot applying behind the hinges and I reapplied cold linseed in that little spot and it worked great. I'd recommend re-coating annually or bi-annually and doing it after a cook and meat is off.
I know this post was from years ago but it was very useful. I have some areas of my smoker are still tacky after 2-3 months of applying the BLO. How can I get rid of the tackiness? Just use a pear burner and get it hot again?
Using an oil that will cure hard. Raw linseed takes 5-7 days
So when preparing the surface, does mill scale need to be removed or can this be done over it?
yes
not to bare steel tho
Great video! But I'm a little confused about the kinds of linseed oil - at 2:32 you should a yellow can of boiled linseed oil but call it "pure, raw", and then at 2:37 you show a blue can that is ALSO labeled boiled and you say we should use boiled instead of the other kind. But the other kind was boiled too. What am I missing? Thanks for any help you can give.
You can use both oils. One (the boiled) has drying agents in it which will allow it to set up quicker. The RAW organic linseed will take a week or two to cure vs 24 hours with the boiled linseed.
I cut out a huge section on all of that, because I thought it was overkill of info lol.
Is boiled linseed oil safe to use on a smoker? I thought the added chemicals made it toxic?
@@mikebowerstv on the exterior yes. Used outside yes. Applied inside no. The oil has a polymer and once harden will not be toxic according to manufacturer
If there are imperfections that done look the best, have streaks or run marks, tacky thick areas, is there a way to strip it off and reapply? Or what would you suggest?
Sure. You can grind off and reapply
Is there anyway we can substitute the torch by heating the smoker via the fire pit?
Don't think you can get the outside to 400+. Doing the maintenance sure. You can put on cold too. I've done that too ; )
Great video. I applied this same technique to a pit I just finished. A day later the outside is a little sticky.. is that normal? Maybe I applied too much oil, or the outside wasn't hot enough? I didn't have a thermometer so the heat was just guesswork when I was applying but I used the same method. Thanks!
Boiled Linseed Oil is a finish rather than a lubricant. It should cure in time.
My grandpa used to have me coat the shovel handles, etc. with a mixture of 1/3 each, Boiled Linseed Oil, Turpentine, and Vinegar to protect the wood and keep them from cracking. The Turpentine and Vinegar helped it penetrate the wood.
You wouldn't want the Turpentine and Vinegar on a cooker, but the Boiled Linseed Oil, would be an excellent for protecting steel. Much like a laquer or varnish.
That moisture you are seeing on the steel when you heat it with the propane burner is a byproduct of the combustion of the propane. You get a lot of carbon monoxide too. There is not anywhere near that amount of water IN the steel and the water that is there from the atmosphere is on the surface of the metal. At first the propane flame is adding water to the surface of the steel. Once you get the steel hot enough the water will burn off or at least a lot of it will burn off. But don't suggest you are able to extract water from steel.
radroy92 good to know. I just know after 500+ units it needs to be pretty clean/dry to apply
How tall are you? Is that 1969 behind you shorter than normal? Looks small next to you? Serious question, I’m looking to buy this or the 1975
would there be any reason you couldnt do this WHILE you were seasoning the inside? thus saving having to torch...
sure. you could get the chamber to 300-400 and apply and then do the firebox when cooling down to 300-400. Remember to clean the surface first
My smoker is made of rusted tank with some pitting, after wire brushing will linseed still adhere to metal that’s not brand new?
Sure it can go on any type of cleaned metal
I have a question do you put anything on the inside or what can I put on the inside thanks.
Nothing on the inside. Never ever linseed oil for sure. You could spray some food grade oil like Pam or canola oil but once they start cooking the meat has oil which will keep it seasoned
@@Quetorials thanks just finish cleaning an old country smoker from inside and the outside and tomorrow I will do the coating thanks so much.
How often do you have to repeat the oiling process?
Depends on where you live, climate, sea water etc. A few times a yr
@@Quetorials do you have to reheat or do you just re-oil?
Hey there, was wondering! Can you start a fire in your smoker and get it going it hot and then apply the linseed oil all over the smoker is there a way to do it that way? Thanks
You could do it that way but obviously wouldn’t work for extremities like the legs and even the smoke stack wouldn’t get hot enough to fully polymerize. It’s a good way to reapply tho for areas like the firebox and direct cook chamber after a cook when it’s still hot
Jd, hello my friend, this process we need made when recive The Babe by primitive pits?
We do not do the Babe's this way because they are painted tanks
Quetorials thanks
@@Quetorials Ahh. I've heard some folks oil their painted pits, which is what I have and rusting in spots.
Is there any reason not to just get the whole pit cranked up to temp normally to do this? I know you'd be getting it pretty high to get the outer surface to temp, but it seems more efficient than using a weedburner.
I was on the fence. Thought weed burner was a bit more even and easier but yes burning a fire and maintenance is the way to go. It’s been a minute but new vid coming showing this method
@@Quetorials Yeah, I just got my 1975 Sunday, and did the initial seasoning (interior only using beef tallow) Monday. Trying to get used to how it burned I had loaded it too much at one point and briefly got it over 650 with way too little effort, so hitting 425-450 for an extended period once I'm done cooking for the day seems like it should be trivial.
Any reason I could not do this over my painted pit? Starting to see some rust in it
I am thinking you'd want to take the paint off first. thanks
Why did you choose a 1969 as your personal pit over the larger 1975 ? I'm debating between the two, myself.
I have all three. I do use the 69 most because after we sold the restaurant I vowed to cook only for my family (5 of us) or to do catering for special occasions and to feed more than 200 people which lands me in a Primitive 500
Is it safe to use boiled linseed oil to coat the interior surfaces of the smoker?
I don’t think so but I’m speaking from ignorance here. I wouldn’t try it. Just use something safe like beef tallow
Not on interior. Never use inside the smoker
So what is the desired state of the surface before applying the oil? It doesn’t look like bare steel, but is it paint?
Desired is all steel at 400. 2 coats
But if I have an old 150 gallon tank half painted and half rusted, should I sand it all the way down to bare metal?
I would like to know the answer to this question as well.
I’m assuming you can do this to a powder coat finish as well?
I would think the heat would take the powder off, but good question.
Same process for cast iron pan?
I would not use it on cooking surfaces. I think Cowboy Kent Rollins has a video about refurbishing cast iron
How often do you need to reapply
When you see rust
is this something you still recommend doin when you first get your workhorse pit?
We’ve never done that at Workhorse pits we use a different process more like an oven
@@Quetorials then why is he recommending it in the video?
@@rhec_junior_9122 One could absolutely do it this way. Workhorse doesn't because they run through 25-30 per week and in six months will have a new manufacturing facility doubling that. You could also use the fire from your box. Would you like to see video for that?
absolutely. I just wanna be ready when I get mine so I can take care of this thing for years to Come
@@rhec_junior_9122 it will last a hundred years and with maintenance will look brand new at anytime
When is the next video????
He dropped a great one today
Is there a warranty on either finish? The raw with oil or the powder coating?
What? Lol.
I have an old country Pecos. Can I do a dry run get the temp up to °425 and apply the oil that way? These things rust like a mofo and I tried olive oil spray on the outside, it came out sticky.
I'll power wash the outside with soap and water before doing so. But, I really don't want to strip the paint off, if I don't have to. It's not rusted right now. I want to do this as a preventative.
Metal does not have moisture in it, the propane does and it condensates on the steel untl the steel reaches approximately 200°F.
I learned that in an earlier comment. Makes sense liquid propane. LOL. But Thanks for the info
I really like the look of you smokers, but man, please make a video about the performance. I want to spend my money with you, but idk if it works (especially the babe). Does it hold temp, and cook even, etc.... please!!!
the first smoker documented to cook + or - 5 degrees from end to end. Someone is always posting vids on our Instagram. Cmon! Get on board!
instead of using a torch can't you just run your pit very hot and apply the oil?
yes
@@Quetorials cool. Thank you. What's the current wait time for ordering a 1969 to California?
ua-cam.com/video/zUG3jgnYKro/v-deo.html
@@rupman27isback I believe Dec as of today. Best call our office but I believe that is accurate. We are running 1 weeks ahead of schedule
@@Quetorials Thank you so much! I emailed Workhorse a week ago and still waiting for response. But I'll also try calling. Thanks
Do you own Primitive Pits the company?
Yes
Why not use raw linseed oil?
This is what we use at Workhorse Pits but needs to bake in oven
Boiled linseed oil is hella dangerous lol, will just get raw linseed oil. Just need to oil coat my wood handles of my swords machetes axes spears
Man I hate to be the chemist buzzkill but I’d highly recommend you go back to using raw linseed oil. Boiled linseed oil has metallic driers (today they use cobalt but used lead in the past). Cobalt fumes are actually very toxic and pose the greatest threat to someone inhaling them all day. A short exposure under outdoor conditions might not be a big deal but just knowing the children of cobalt miners have some of the most horrific birth defects-if the miner lives long enough to reproduce-should give us pause. I actually love cobalt and collect it’s various color configurations when mixed with glass. We use it in all the batteries and cell phones in the world and it’s a major component in magnets and guitar pickups. They used it in hip replacements until people started suffering from cobalt poisoning. Not light reading for the squeamish.
My companies use raw and ovens. Thank you tho
@@Quetorialssounds great but the video shows you using boiled linseed oil (with cobalt accelerators in it). That’s pretty toxic to breath as you vaporize it with a torch. It’s good you did it outdoors but putting your health in unnecessary risk. Simply use raw linseed oil since your polymerizing it with heat anyway.
Moisture “coming out”? When you burn C₃H₈ (propane) a chemical process occurs, C3H8 combines with 5 O2 for a complete burn and produces 3 CO2 + 4 H2O. The water vapour present in the products of combustion hits the cold metal, cold relative to the flame, and condenses into a liquid which is then heated by the flame and evaporated. Also, The “boiled linseed oil” you can buy in most stores is actually mostly raw linseed oil, but with plasticizers, hardeners, and heavy metals added to make it act like true boiled oil, without the time and effort it takes to actually boil it; in other words, it’s cheap and it is also toxic to consume in quantity until it is dried/ cured
Thanks for the feedback Don Very interesting!! I understand the hydrocarbon in liquid propane is the liquid. The linseed oil polermization I mentioned as a hardener and applied once or twice a year is not a danger (per the manufacture). In addition, we have now discovered it cures no faster or better then raw linseed (which is odd) after a year of applying on hundreds of units. Of course an oven is used.
Linseed oil I put that s&#t on everything.
Please don't play that music!!!
Please, shut up. There is a mute button.
Why have such a long loud intro???????????
That was four years ago Harold. Things change over time.
@@Quetorials Thank you for the courtesy of your response, I am/was interested in the content only, not entertainment.