You are simply the best about teaching us all the nitty gritty of electronic repairs of consoles, which a lot of technicians keep hidden. Very informative with constructive plausible explanation of faults. Thank you very much.
Unfortunately you can't, all caps behind the cpu are directly connected to the cpu and are all low impedance lines. They show as short no matter what and can't be used for diagnostics
I would inject voltage and use my thermal-camera :) my guess is a sneaky capacitor at least one looked bad…a power rail schematic would be helpful…which capacitor are on the same power rail?
At 15:30 we're you inject 1 volt their was a component that did get hot but didnt look like the BQ chip you mentioned. Looked more like the Molex 503566-1100. Is this the Joycon connector and if this blows do you need to replace IC chips MT92T55 or M92T36 related to the switch charging control but it maybe not this at all HAHA but thought might be worth a look than it being a no fix 😀🤣
Good video. All those bigger caps directly next to all the 3 MAX ICs are on the exact same rail. This is why you measured short on all of them. I would remove the 2 caps which looked bad. One next to the BQ on the top left corner (looked like a crack on it) and the other one over the GPU MAX IC (the one which is discoloured). Maybe those are shorting the rail.
Just for simplicity, and because it's easier to do,I think I'd have started by removing caps from the shorted rail before removing BGA stuff.. though I guess no caps getting evidently hot would be one reason against that
@@Rx7man yeah it's a balancing game really on what to remove first, you can remove caps but when you've got 3 or 4 on one circuit short it does lead to the chip normally
Hey Phill I had one randomly blowing M92 up was advised to change the Max7 (whatever Ic numbers it’s a bga chip) and the consoles been good since. My first bit of BGA work too lol, I actually hate switches though they can become a nightmare fast 😭
It was the max 77621 near the CPU. Was told on a forum on Facebook, not sure if you’ve ever had this before no idea what circuit it’s part of tbh not looked into it 😃M92 would last a day then die replaced it like 3 times, it’s been good now for a few days testing it till Friday.
@@TheCod3r I was sort of chasing a lose end if I’m honest, I tested a fair bit in the console and the port was in good shape too. It would work for 1 day exactly then fail again, no idea why I put a new battery in too even though it tested fine.
Very informative video Phil. It does seem like the CPU is at fault. But did you check the caps near the bga chip whilst injecting voltage to see if they get hot? Awesome video pal.
You are simply the best about teaching us all the nitty gritty of electronic repairs of consoles, which a lot of technicians keep hidden. Very informative with constructive plausible explanation of faults. Thank you very much.
Hey everyone. Don't forget to check me out on Twitch, and linking your prime account makes you a legend! www.twitch.tv/thecod3r2015
Dude , you're a legend. Keep 'em coming.
Probably should have checked for shorted caps behind cpu/gpu
Unfortunately you can't, all caps behind the cpu are directly connected to the cpu and are all low impedance lines. They show as short no matter what and can't be used for diagnostics
@@TheCod3r Thanks for that info, it helps to know that. Cheers Mate!
Good video it was worth a go and you gave it your all. It's a shame when there a no fix I have a few like this
I would inject voltage and use my thermal-camera :) my guess is a sneaky capacitor at least one looked bad…a power rail schematic would be helpful…which capacitor are on the same power rail?
I was thinking an MLCC somewhere, but you could be there for hours taking them off to test.
At 15:30 we're you inject 1 volt their was a component that did get hot but didnt look like the BQ chip you mentioned. Looked more like the Molex 503566-1100. Is this the Joycon connector and if this blows do you need to replace IC chips MT92T55 or M92T36 related to the switch charging control but it maybe not this at all HAHA but thought might be worth a look than it being a no fix 😀🤣
Good video. All those bigger caps directly next to all the 3 MAX ICs are on the exact same rail. This is why you measured short on all of them. I would remove the 2 caps which looked bad. One next to the BQ on the top left corner (looked like a crack on it) and the other one over the GPU MAX IC (the one which is discoloured). Maybe those are shorting the rail.
Well I offered the customer a board swap so I might still be able to have another look at this one
Just for simplicity, and because it's easier to do,I think I'd have started by removing caps from the shorted rail before removing BGA stuff.. though I guess no caps getting evidently hot would be one reason against that
@@Rx7man yeah it's a balancing game really on what to remove first, you can remove caps but when you've got 3 or 4 on one circuit short it does lead to the chip normally
I see this one is still public, thank god. 😂 Thanks for the video Phil
Did you end up revisiting this?
Also, is there any guide on how to make the battery adapter for the psu?
Nice try. Thanks for your video.
Best regards
Hey Phill I had one randomly blowing M92 up was advised to change the Max7 (whatever Ic numbers it’s a bga chip) and the consoles been good since. My first bit of BGA work too lol, I actually hate switches though they can become a nightmare fast 😭
Haha yeah they can be but you get used to them eventually 😁
It was the max 77621 near the CPU. Was told on a forum on Facebook, not sure if you’ve ever had this before no idea what circuit it’s part of tbh not looked into it 😃M92 would last a day then die replaced it like 3 times, it’s been good now for a few days testing it till Friday.
@@MrReeceyburger123 not had it where it blows M92 mate but MAX7762 is the big max on the back which controls power distribution from the battery
@@TheCod3r I was sort of chasing a lose end if I’m honest, I tested a fair bit in the console and the port was in good shape too. It would work for 1 day exactly then fail again, no idea why I put a new battery in too even though it tested fine.
@@TheCod3r thanks for the video anyway Phill really great help, I love watching you hopefully be as good as you one day haha 😛
Awww u were so close to changing the fuel gauge chip lol
Haha I was but it's doubtful that was the cause to be honest
@@TheCod3r just waiting to see you change one as it looks a tricky one
It is time to get a thermal camera, don't you think?
I've got one mate
@@TheCod3r Yeah I have seen you use it :) but I have meant that you should use it for this board. Maybe I was too tired to say it correctly.
Do u got a ps5 console for sale
thats ok man
Do you not charge for even looking at it?. Seems to me that the customer should pay you at last a minimal fee for your time and effort.
It’s over
Very informative video Phil. It does seem like the CPU is at fault. But did you check the caps near the bga chip whilst injecting voltage to see if they get hot? Awesome video pal.
Thanks bud, I did yeah I did some more voltage injection after I finished recording
@@TheCod3r must be the damn CPU then. Bye bye working switch board and hello to the new addition to the donor box 😂👍
@@presidenterectbeijingbiden1125 haha yeah I might revisit it in the future
Funny
;)