I just removed the original sound tube from my 2.0L ND2 and placed this one, hoping I will hear a bit more induction noise. I'm very happy with it, stationary and cruising there's hardly a difference, but on the gas it's much louder than the stock sound tube. Just what I wanted, not annoying when cruising, only louder when on throttle. Mazda should have done it this way!
Thank you so much for your purchase, and also for taking the time to add your feedback - I am really pleased it has achieved exactly what you wanted! Interestingly, nearly all of the people I chat to who own NDs are similar in their approach / preferences. They tend to be a little more 'mature' and have done lots of car modding in the past, so appreciate the nuance of finding a nice balance in various aspects of the car. Instead of having it super loud and harsh at all times, they often like it to be as close to OEM / stock as possible for 'normal' driving, but have it 'wake up' (across all sensations) when going for the gas pedal. I worked really hard to find that balance with the sound tube so I am super glad to have met your expectations here. Thanks again!
I'm having the same experience on my 2017 ND1. I got this sound tube, put the most aggressive (smallest) foam in, and I really like the extra sound volume in the interior, without spilling a bunch of loudness to annoy people outside of my car like an obnoxious exhaust
Thanks, just installed it on my ND2 2.0. Wasn't quite loud enough compared to my Roadstersport super street (baffle removed) exhaust. Took the the end sound tube internal silencer baffle out and wrapped the tube with 9 mil Nitrile Powder-Free Gloves (2 layers =18mil) and put it back in. Perfect loudness and a higher pitch sound like vtec! Grinning ear to ear thanks!
@moogsmiley4157 glad you got it to work to your tastes and thanks for the feedback / twealing idea! Keep an eye on the glove diaphragm, I didn't find nitrile gloves to last too long, a spare in the car is a good idea 👍 thanks again!
That little trill right before redline reminds me of the Porsche GT3 cars. The ND community, for whatever reason, is hostile to sound tubes and induction noise modifications for whatever reason. Induction noise tuning is just as important as slapping an exhaust on, IMO.
I completely agree! The blend of exhaust and induction is important too, I think. Perhaps this hostility comes from the general feeling that the OEM part doesn't add much to the experience, so it is just "dead weight", when in fact enhancing the sound isn't too difficult and can make a real positive change.
So I got mine and got it installed yesterday. It's great! I have a 2020 ND RF 2.0 with a Goodwin Super Street Twin Tip exhaust. I have the baffle all the way in, which is supposed to be the loudest. but it's the least bassy setting. I'm in Vegas and i have to keep the top up all summer. During the rest of the year, when I can put the top down, I remove the baffle to make it more bassy because i can hear it with the top down. I installed this sound tube without any damper and took it for a rip. It sounds so good and adds a bunch of bass intake honk to the cabin. I definitely won't have to mess around with the exhaust baffle anymore and its gonna stay on the highest pitch, loudest setting year round from now on. The sound tube makes two sounds. A low, bassy, kinda subaru burbley sound. That's great. It also makes a kinda high pitched air sucking with some, I think, valvetrain tickety sound. Kinda sounds like a turbo. Not a whistle at all, just air sucking. I don't really care for that sound, but the bass honk makes it so worth it. The sucking sound is not a bad sound, or that loud, and is just my opinion that i don't like it. Others might. It's not at all a reason to not get it. I tried putting in the smallest damper, but that cuts down the intake honk and leaves the sucking sound. I took it back out. Overall, I love it and definitely recommend it. The video does not do it justice as far as how much good sound it adds to the cabin. A note for Americans: It took 2 weeks for it to arrive to me in Vegas. It's not CleaR's fault, but the tracking is terrible, at least for me. It initially told me a month, then 4 days, and stuck on that for 5 days past that date, then told me it was coming in 3 days and then just showed up 2 days before that. It's fine, he shipped it out fast, and it arrived quickly. Just don't sit in the garage with the hood up, listening for the mailman, like I did, based on the tracking. Well worth the minor annoyance. Get one ordered before the whole Miata world finds out about this and he can't keep up with demand.
I just installed mine this weekend and I love it as well! Love the new sounds my car makes now with the growling and burbles right around 4500rpm. I do notice that sound similar to air sucking through a straw, which I would prefer to be silent, but not bad. But if you figure out a way to get rid of it, please let me know haha.
Thank you very much for such a detailed review, I am glad you like it overall. So sorry that the tracking was a little hit and miss. The international shipping service is provided by eBay who I honestly thought had this nailed down. If I hear similar from another customer then I will be sure to look at alternative options. The slight mechanical / sucky noise is something I noticed a little during testing, but deemed it a fair compromise also. With the roof off the 'air' noise seems to blend in / be covered up by the general wind noise in the cabin, but I appreciate what you are saying about it as of course not every drive is a roof-off affair. There is some stuff going on with the diaphragm which I developed to kill this a little - but it's a fine balance between getting rid of the unwanted frequencies and keeping the desireable ones! I am sure a proper sound engineer could figure this out, haha. Thanks again for your purchase and feedback, I appreciate it.
@@michaelchow183 Glad you like it also! I will work on an 'air noise' fix which can be applied as a DIY, and if anything seems to do the job, I will of course post back. Thanks for your feedback!
@@CleaR-Motorsport Thank you for making this. Overall experience was great! Shipping speed wasn't bad at all, considering shipping from UK to US, price was fair, ease of installation was a breeze. Product is honestly amazing, I drove the car the entire weekend with the new sound mod, and it's just as satisfying as a new exhaust. It sounds more raw and faster than the car actually is haha. But please, I would love to hear a DIY fix for that 'air noise', that would be icing on the cake.
@@CleaR-Motorsport I didn't mean the bit about tracking as a complaint or anything. It's fine. It got here plenty quick enough. It was just a note to let Americans know to expect it. I definitely agree that with the top down, it will drown out some of the sucking sound. it was 115 Fahrenheit {46 C} while i was driving. The top doesn't come down till it gets down into the 80's {26 C} around November. Then it's top down till like April. I'm sure someone could figure out how to reduce the sucking sound, while kepping the bass, but it's way beyond my capabilities. If you ever figure it out, I'll buy the new version too. As it is, it's a massive upgrade to the experience. I'll never take it off. Well done. Thanks.
Sounds great. I've been waiting for something like this. I had an exhaust ordered and sitting in the garage before I even picked the car up from the dealer, but it needs something more and I think this is it. Just ordered one to Fabulous Las Vegas, Nevada.
Sounds like you are already well on the way to an empty wallet 😁 thank you very much for your purchase, it'll be on the way to you soon. Enjoy and thanks again!
I did this, expanded the hole and took that hose all the way in to the cabin with rubber over the end of the pipe. So loud on full chat on my 2l. Very honda/itb. Love it
Definitely see how that will give you a bunch more induction noise in the cabin, great job and I am pleased you love it! Personally I didn't want to open up the firewall hole, and I think a lot of people are in the same position, hence developing this fully reversible option.
@@zzkamikazezz It was a cheapo one off eBay here in the UK, which doesn't seem to be available any more. Appears to be identical to the V1 GoodWin Racing item, and the same as AutoExe. Very light, added less than 1kg to the car, and a significant difference over nothing (perhaps wouldn't make a notable change over the OEM Mazda brace though).
This video surprised me, and made me scratch my head and even laugh. I bought my 2021 RF new. When first looking under the hood I noticed this sound tube thing but could not understand why an intake tube was going into the firewall. I am a retired automobile mechanic so it made no sense. Then I found out it was a sound tube designed to bring noise into the cabin. What!!! That's the dumbest thing I have ever heard of. But I did wonder why at times and especially on cold start up why the car sounded a bit loud and strange, and then I knew. Mazda has a delete kit available to get rid of this useless tube thing so that is what I did. Now my car sounds normal in the cabin. Loud noise seems to be all the rage today. Loud is only good when the sound is correct and correct sound starts at the engine. Some (most) engines will never sound good loud; they will just be loud. A good sounding engine comes from cylinder head design and valve placement, compression ratios and valve timing. When those things are creating a beautiful engine sound then an exhaust can finish off the final sound. But if it does not start at the engine an exhaust will never make it pretty it will just make it louder. The best example of the best sounding engine is an Alfa Romeo "Busso" V6. Hard to hear one now because they went out of production a long time ago. These sounded fantastic no matter what. Stock exhaust or broken muffler. Search you tube for the sound and pay attention.
Hi mate, this sounds great. Couple questions.. Does this sound obviously pumped into the cabin or does it sound like it's coming from the engine bay if that makes sense? I've seen this done before with a rubber glove on the end as this is apparently needed to stop an engine light coming on. How does this work without the sponge inserts which is how you said you run it, is there something else in the tube filtering it somehow? And would this need modifying to fit a 2.0L ND2? I already have a sound tube in place, would I just remove all of that and bolt this on? Cheers
Hello! Thanks. It doesn't come across as well as I'd hoped on the video, but feedback has been great so far. These are great questions and thanks for asking them. I apologise in advance if my responses are a bit long winded...! So I originally tried one of these back when my car was standard and had an OEM silencer. I didn't like it. The sound appeared to come from under the dash too much, and it sounded fake. I since changed to a more shouty exhaust setup and the blend of tones from opposite corners works really nicely. This is why I supply the foam plugs, so you can change the sound level to blend exhaust and intake levels to your tastes - IMO it sounds 'wrong' if the car is only one or the other. Hope that makes sense. Yes, there is something else in the tube to create the seal, all pre-installed and hidden away neatly. The foam plugs are just to cut down noise levels, think of them as 'reverse earplugs'! If you already have a sound tube, then feel free to give me a shout directly and I can sell you a kit which doesn't include the 90 degree elbow coming out of the intake pipe. Seems silly for you to buy something you don't need and then just have it sat in the garage / tool box / bin! You can re-use the hose clamp at the intake end, but I will supply everything else from there onwards. Thanks.
Does the ECU detect any changes in airflow? Your diaphragms are at the firewall end which is essentially where the OEM soundtube seal is, correct? I have my glove essentially right where the replacement sound tube starts. (End closest to the 10mm bolt that holds the OEM rubber tube on) Theoretically all that matters is if it has vacuum, but curious if you’ve datalogged before and after? I went as far as to use electrical tape to seal the glove in place and ensure no air gets through. Even removed the pipe and blew from one end to make sure there are no leaks. I’m a bit OCD with stuff like this 😅 Thanks!!
@NDEEZMiata nothing detected on datalogging, I can't see a reason why there would be any difference in airflow. I stuck the diaphragm at the firewall end so it's a little further away from heat, and easier for customers (no assembly required), but as you've found it works ok at either end 👌😎
@@CleaR-Motorsport ah that’s a good idea, didn’t think about that. The way mine is setup that’s the only place to seal it. Definitely more of a budget hack job, but it works and sounds good. I periodically check it to see if it’s holding up and keep a spare glove in the trunk just in case lol I think I’m using both “sides” of a 3-4mm nitrile glove. If it eventually lets go I may try the 9mm gloves I have around. Likely won’t be as loud but might hold up better. If I wasn’t across the pond would have bought your kit, seems really well designed. Dad life means can’t easily justify $100+ on a sound tube unfortunately. Just happy to still have a Miata at all right now😂 Cheers!
@@NDEEZMiata If it works, it works :D Good idea with the spare glove! Really cool that you've been able to maintain having a toy car while still being a dad - and completely understand that a 'commercial' solution is not on the cards for you. Cheers again and enjoy!
This is a very interesting mod and largely ignored by the general car community. I'm actually trying to do this mod with my E46 BMW 330 but I don't have a diaphragm so i'm blocking the tube with rubber gloves. From what I understand, the diaphragm is simply for blocking the airflow in the tube and doesn't actually amplify the noise in any way?
@bayerischemotorenwerke5252 that's pretty much correct, yes. From my testing I found that thicker and less flexible diaphragms give less noise than thinner / more flexible ones too. There also appears to be a resonant frequency or frequencies where the diaphragm will make a "fart" type noise, which is affected by the above but can also be adjusted by how much tension is in the diaphragm. Happy experimenting!
@@CleaR-Motorsport That's interesting because BMW and other manufacturers actually sell a module/device called a "Sound Generator" which they claim has an internal diaphragm that amplifies induction noise somehow. It was found on cars like the E46 Compact and Z4
@@bayerischemotorenwerke5252 Ha, alright! Though I think finding a balance between volume and refinement is the trickiest bit, I am sure as an OEM they need to have the balance a bit further towards refinement so not to annoy the majority of owners.
What the rubber baffle? In other words? How do you guarentee no additional air is sucked in? Reliability is a concern so if you can describe that bit i think youll have another purchase. Sounds great!
I guess this response "flies slightly close to the sun" as there is already another kit shown up which has taken, er, very close inspiration from this one, but there are actually two skins to the diaphragm. One is 0.33mm thick, made of a material that has an elongation to break of 800% and minimum strength after ageing of 14MPa. The second skin is 0.12mm / 400% / 10MPa. There is also something sandwiched between the two skins to cut down unwanted 'fart' noises which occur around 2000-3000rpm on mid throttle with just a single skin. The firewall adaptor and these two skins are a firm push fit into the tubing, then sealed with the clamp. Around 40 kits sold so far and ~6 months on my car (including a couple of track days) with no problems, so I am confident of durability and reliability. However, I completely understand if you would need more long-term data before making a decision. Cheers!
@@joker927 You are very welcome - we are all car dudes and I feel sharing stuff like this is important! Please do shout up if you'd like to ask anything else.
Thank you for your order! Yeah, the eBay Global Shipping Program includes all import fees, so you dont have an additional amount to pay on arrival (yay Brexit 🙄). I hope the sound tube is worth to you the amount you chose to pay for it👍
I haven't see the Verus unit in person / fitted a sound tube to a car with that kit on, so can't say with 100% certainty, but from looking at install photos I see no reason why not. The main tube will pass in front of the ECU and AOS as in this video, and the breather pipe can simply be rerouted and attached to the AOS as normal. Hope that helps! If you are overseas feel free to email me (business name at gmail.com) for an international shipping quote as the GSP pricing through eBay can be quite steep! Thanks.
Haven't seen one in the flesh yet! I see no reason this won't fit, but feel free to send me a photo of the engine bay and I can confirm. Enjoy your new toy 😎
@@CleaR-Motorsport I’m hoping to build it into the ultimate fast road set up without compromising its daily comfort. I’m sure I’ll be in touch for some bits! Do you know if there is a competitor to the BBR220 kit? That’s the route I was thinking of going down.
@@Throttle.Monkey I would have a chat with BBR about that - as far as I am aware the ECU for the ND3 hasn't been 'unlocked' yet (and that might take some significant time). In terms of kit, the 220 setup appears popular. As with many things like this, there are various good and bad stories about BBRs work and customer service. Up to you to make the call on that one... Personally I would go to Swiatek or MMRSPL for cams / springs and manifold, add your exhaust of choice, then use a reputable tuner to pull it all together - but I am more of a 'DIY' fan.
@@CleaR-Motorsport that’s something I didn’t know! It’s been a toss up between a new ND3 or discounted ND2 so I’m assuming the ecu in that version would be fine? Do you have a website etc? It’d be good to get an idea of options you can provide and I’ve just seen you’ve done the final drive swap which is also on my radar!
@Throttle.Monkey yes the ND2 ECU is available for tweaking on various platforms. A bunch of info here, including a link to my options form: www.clearmotorsport.co.uk/services/remapping
@the_ambient_light Car Cottage now take car of all sales of these, message them via eBay and ask for the kit without elbow. They should then reply with an offer at reduced cost for the partial kit. Thanks.
@the_ambient_light anything long and thin, like a small flat bladed screwdriver, piece of wire, paperclip bent to shape, etc 👍 Thanks for your purchase! Hope you like it.
The foils that you wrapped around the intake pipe I guess? And now I can only find the product without the elbow, do you guys have the product with the elbow? Sorry my English isn't perfect.😅 Thank you!
@jun5523 I understand now, thanks 🙏 This foil is not related to the sound tube. It was an experiment to see if I could reduce the temperature if the air going into the engine. It worked, but only changed by 1-2 degrees, so I would not bother doing it again! I hope that helps and makes sense.
@michaeldixon6251 honestly, I don't have test data from this length of time, however there are two diaphragms in here. The main barrier is 0.33mm thick, made of a material which has an elongation at break of 800% and a strength after age-related degradation of 14MPa (just over 2000psi). I have tried multiple times to break one of these by hand and can't, for obvious reasons when you consider the strength rating of the material! Shipping to the US is no problem, check the link in the video description for an eBay link. Please ask if you'd like to know anything else. Thanks!
If will! If you already have a sound tube from the factory, you just omit the 90 degree elbow. In this case, I can sell you a kit without this at a lower price if you like, feel free to get in touch directly. Not sure I can write an email address here, but it is my business name at gmail. Thanks!
Of course! Contact Car Cottage on eBay (link to their shop in the video description) and John / Jess will sort you out. The price is of course lower than the full kit, too.
Midpipe is standard, and I built the manifold and silencer. Manifold is 4-1 without cat, 38mm primaries; silencer looks a bit like a BBR Super Sport but with a larger can, and 2" diameter with single exit to match the 1.5L engine and maintain exhaust gas speed as it cools down.
@Onewheel-MTB that's right yes, it is considerably louder. I have a few customers already who have replaced the OEM item with mine and notice the difference immediately. Exactly, just remove the stock one (couple of 10mm bolts, then the end pulls out of the firewall) and then mine can be fitted 👍
@@DUBOMAR I think this is a tough one for me to answer, as everyone has their own preferences - but even with the largest foam plug installed, you will get some induction noise, more than stock. I have a couple of customers with stock exhausts who have installed the tube and love it! They originally had it with the plugs removed completely, but have since stuck the smaller one in since it was a bit too overpowering with the roof up. Hope that helps.
@DUBOMAR you are very welcome. Thank you so much for your order! I hope you like it, please feel free to get in contact if you have any questions or feedback 👍😎
This isn't something I have available unfortunately, it was just knocked up 'out of necessity' and I don't think it would be a universal fit for every car.
Yes, I run a small tuning company, so do my own tuning. Rev limiter here is 8000rpm, so it goes past 8000 on the dial since the tach reads 200-300rpm high at full rpm.
Thanks. I guess a little bit! However, I don't rev it that high very often at all, since power drop off around 7500. It is just nice to have the extra revs available if needed.
I see no reason why not, but I haven't fitted one to the ND3 yet. If you wish to send me a photo of your engine bay, I could confirm either way. Thanks!
I just removed the original sound tube from my 2.0L ND2 and placed this one, hoping I will hear a bit more induction noise.
I'm very happy with it, stationary and cruising there's hardly a difference, but on the gas it's much louder than the stock sound tube.
Just what I wanted, not annoying when cruising, only louder when on throttle.
Mazda should have done it this way!
Thank you so much for your purchase, and also for taking the time to add your feedback - I am really pleased it has achieved exactly what you wanted!
Interestingly, nearly all of the people I chat to who own NDs are similar in their approach / preferences. They tend to be a little more 'mature' and have done lots of car modding in the past, so appreciate the nuance of finding a nice balance in various aspects of the car. Instead of having it super loud and harsh at all times, they often like it to be as close to OEM / stock as possible for 'normal' driving, but have it 'wake up' (across all sensations) when going for the gas pedal. I worked really hard to find that balance with the sound tube so I am super glad to have met your expectations here. Thanks again!
I'm having the same experience on my 2017 ND1. I got this sound tube, put the most aggressive (smallest) foam in, and I really like the extra sound volume in the interior, without spilling a bunch of loudness to annoy people outside of my car like an obnoxious exhaust
Thanks, just installed it on my ND2 2.0. Wasn't quite loud enough compared to my Roadstersport super street (baffle removed) exhaust. Took the the end sound tube internal silencer baffle out and wrapped the tube with 9 mil Nitrile Powder-Free Gloves (2 layers =18mil) and put it back in. Perfect loudness and a higher pitch sound like vtec! Grinning ear to ear thanks!
@moogsmiley4157 glad you got it to work to your tastes and thanks for the feedback / twealing idea!
Keep an eye on the glove diaphragm, I didn't find nitrile gloves to last too long, a spare in the car is a good idea 👍 thanks again!
That little trill right before redline reminds me of the Porsche GT3 cars. The ND community, for whatever reason, is hostile to sound tubes and induction noise modifications for whatever reason. Induction noise tuning is just as important as slapping an exhaust on, IMO.
I completely agree! The blend of exhaust and induction is important too, I think.
Perhaps this hostility comes from the general feeling that the OEM part doesn't add much to the experience, so it is just "dead weight", when in fact enhancing the sound isn't too difficult and can make a real positive change.
Agree with this one. I'm too old to tolerate exhausts. Intake noise is all I need.
Thought the same, that rattle at the end sounds like a GT4RS
sounds just like the GT3 RS engine from 8300 to 9k rpm
So I got mine and got it installed yesterday. It's great! I have a 2020 ND RF 2.0 with a Goodwin Super Street Twin Tip exhaust. I have the baffle all the way in, which is supposed to be the loudest. but it's the least bassy setting. I'm in Vegas and i have to keep the top up all summer. During the rest of the year, when I can put the top down, I remove the baffle to make it more bassy because i can hear it with the top down. I installed this sound tube without any damper and took it for a rip. It sounds so good and adds a bunch of bass intake honk to the cabin. I definitely won't have to mess around with the exhaust baffle anymore and its gonna stay on the highest pitch, loudest setting year round from now on. The sound tube makes two sounds. A low, bassy, kinda subaru burbley sound. That's great. It also makes a kinda high pitched air sucking with some, I think, valvetrain tickety sound. Kinda sounds like a turbo. Not a whistle at all, just air sucking. I don't really care for that sound, but the bass honk makes it so worth it. The sucking sound is not a bad sound, or that loud, and is just my opinion that i don't like it. Others might. It's not at all a reason to not get it. I tried putting in the smallest damper, but that cuts down the intake honk and leaves the sucking sound. I took it back out. Overall, I love it and definitely recommend it. The video does not do it justice as far as how much good sound it adds to the cabin. A note for Americans: It took 2 weeks for it to arrive to me in Vegas. It's not CleaR's fault, but the tracking is terrible, at least for me. It initially told me a month, then 4 days, and stuck on that for 5 days past that date, then told me it was coming in 3 days and then just showed up 2 days before that. It's fine, he shipped it out fast, and it arrived quickly. Just don't sit in the garage with the hood up, listening for the mailman, like I did, based on the tracking. Well worth the minor annoyance. Get one ordered before the whole Miata world finds out about this and he can't keep up with demand.
I just installed mine this weekend and I love it as well! Love the new sounds my car makes now with the growling and burbles right around 4500rpm. I do notice that sound similar to air sucking through a straw, which I would prefer to be silent, but not bad. But if you figure out a way to get rid of it, please let me know haha.
Thank you very much for such a detailed review, I am glad you like it overall. So sorry that the tracking was a little hit and miss. The international shipping service is provided by eBay who I honestly thought had this nailed down. If I hear similar from another customer then I will be sure to look at alternative options.
The slight mechanical / sucky noise is something I noticed a little during testing, but deemed it a fair compromise also. With the roof off the 'air' noise seems to blend in / be covered up by the general wind noise in the cabin, but I appreciate what you are saying about it as of course not every drive is a roof-off affair. There is some stuff going on with the diaphragm which I developed to kill this a little - but it's a fine balance between getting rid of the unwanted frequencies and keeping the desireable ones! I am sure a proper sound engineer could figure this out, haha.
Thanks again for your purchase and feedback, I appreciate it.
@@michaelchow183 Glad you like it also! I will work on an 'air noise' fix which can be applied as a DIY, and if anything seems to do the job, I will of course post back.
Thanks for your feedback!
@@CleaR-Motorsport Thank you for making this. Overall experience was great! Shipping speed wasn't bad at all, considering shipping from UK to US, price was fair, ease of installation was a breeze. Product is honestly amazing, I drove the car the entire weekend with the new sound mod, and it's just as satisfying as a new exhaust. It sounds more raw and faster than the car actually is haha. But please, I would love to hear a DIY fix for that 'air noise', that would be icing on the cake.
@@CleaR-Motorsport I didn't mean the bit about tracking as a complaint or anything. It's fine. It got here plenty quick enough. It was just a note to let Americans know to expect it. I definitely agree that with the top down, it will drown out some of the sucking sound. it was 115 Fahrenheit {46 C} while i was driving. The top doesn't come down till it gets down into the 80's {26 C} around November. Then it's top down till like April. I'm sure someone could figure out how to reduce the sucking sound, while kepping the bass, but it's way beyond my capabilities. If you ever figure it out, I'll buy the new version too. As it is, it's a massive upgrade to the experience. I'll never take it off. Well done. Thanks.
Sounds great. I've been waiting for something like this. I had an exhaust ordered and sitting in the garage before I even picked the car up from the dealer, but it needs something more and I think this is it. Just ordered one to Fabulous Las Vegas, Nevada.
Sounds like you are already well on the way to an empty wallet 😁 thank you very much for your purchase, it'll be on the way to you soon. Enjoy and thanks again!
@@CleaR-Motorsport It's ok, I had to sell my wallet to help pay for rims..Can't wait for this. Thanks
@@HotCarl73 😆 A true petrolhead... Thank you once again, and enjoy your new car!
I did this, expanded the hole and took that hose all the way in to the cabin with rubber over the end of the pipe. So loud on full chat on my 2l. Very honda/itb. Love it
Definitely see how that will give you a bunch more induction noise in the cabin, great job and I am pleased you love it!
Personally I didn't want to open up the firewall hole, and I think a lot of people are in the same position, hence developing this fully reversible option.
@@CleaR-Motorsport totally. It took a lot of thought and brave pills before I did it!
@@CleaR-Motorsportwhat strut brace do you have?
@@zzkamikazezz Haha! Fair play. I did actually hover over the car with drill in hand once, but couldn't go through with it 😆
@@zzkamikazezz It was a cheapo one off eBay here in the UK, which doesn't seem to be available any more. Appears to be identical to the V1 GoodWin Racing item, and the same as AutoExe. Very light, added less than 1kg to the car, and a significant difference over nothing (perhaps wouldn't make a notable change over the OEM Mazda brace though).
This video surprised me, and made me scratch my head and even laugh. I bought my 2021 RF new. When first looking under the hood I noticed this sound tube thing but could not understand why an intake tube was going into the firewall. I am a retired automobile mechanic so it made no sense. Then I found out it was a sound tube designed to bring noise into the cabin. What!!! That's the dumbest thing I have ever heard of. But I did wonder why at times and especially on cold start up why the car sounded a bit loud and strange, and then I knew. Mazda has a delete kit available to get rid of this useless tube thing so that is what I did. Now my car sounds normal in the cabin. Loud noise seems to be all the rage today. Loud is only good when the sound is correct and correct sound starts at the engine. Some (most) engines will never sound good loud; they will just be loud. A good sounding engine comes from cylinder head design and valve placement, compression ratios and valve timing. When those things are creating a beautiful engine sound then an exhaust can finish off the final sound. But if it does not start at the engine an exhaust will never make it pretty it will just make it louder. The best example of the best sounding engine is an Alfa Romeo "Busso" V6. Hard to hear one now because they went out of production a long time ago. These sounded fantastic no matter what. Stock exhaust or broken muffler. Search you tube for the sound and pay attention.
Hi mate, this sounds great. Couple questions..
Does this sound obviously pumped into the cabin or does it sound like it's coming from the engine bay if that makes sense?
I've seen this done before with a rubber glove on the end as this is apparently needed to stop an engine light coming on. How does this work without the sponge inserts which is how you said you run it, is there something else in the tube filtering it somehow?
And would this need modifying to fit a 2.0L ND2? I already have a sound tube in place, would I just remove all of that and bolt this on? Cheers
Hello! Thanks. It doesn't come across as well as I'd hoped on the video, but feedback has been great so far.
These are great questions and thanks for asking them. I apologise in advance if my responses are a bit long winded...!
So I originally tried one of these back when my car was standard and had an OEM silencer. I didn't like it. The sound appeared to come from under the dash too much, and it sounded fake. I since changed to a more shouty exhaust setup and the blend of tones from opposite corners works really nicely. This is why I supply the foam plugs, so you can change the sound level to blend exhaust and intake levels to your tastes - IMO it sounds 'wrong' if the car is only one or the other. Hope that makes sense.
Yes, there is something else in the tube to create the seal, all pre-installed and hidden away neatly. The foam plugs are just to cut down noise levels, think of them as 'reverse earplugs'!
If you already have a sound tube, then feel free to give me a shout directly and I can sell you a kit which doesn't include the 90 degree elbow coming out of the intake pipe. Seems silly for you to buy something you don't need and then just have it sat in the garage / tool box / bin! You can re-use the hose clamp at the intake end, but I will supply everything else from there onwards.
Thanks.
Does the ECU detect any changes in airflow? Your diaphragms are at the firewall end which is essentially where the OEM soundtube seal is, correct?
I have my glove essentially right where the replacement sound tube starts. (End closest to the 10mm bolt that holds the OEM rubber tube on) Theoretically all that matters is if it has vacuum, but curious if you’ve datalogged before and after?
I went as far as to use electrical tape to seal the glove in place and ensure no air gets through. Even removed the pipe and blew from one end to make sure there are no leaks.
I’m a bit OCD with stuff like this 😅
Thanks!!
@NDEEZMiata nothing detected on datalogging, I can't see a reason why there would be any difference in airflow.
I stuck the diaphragm at the firewall end so it's a little further away from heat, and easier for customers (no assembly required), but as you've found it works ok at either end 👌😎
@@CleaR-Motorsport ah that’s a good idea, didn’t think about that. The way mine is setup that’s the only place to seal it. Definitely more of a budget hack job, but it works and sounds good.
I periodically check it to see if it’s holding up and keep a spare glove in the trunk just in case lol
I think I’m using both “sides” of a 3-4mm nitrile glove. If it eventually lets go I may try the 9mm gloves I have around. Likely won’t be as loud but might hold up better.
If I wasn’t across the pond would have bought your kit, seems really well designed. Dad life means can’t easily justify $100+ on a sound tube unfortunately. Just happy to still have a Miata at all right now😂
Cheers!
@@NDEEZMiata If it works, it works :D Good idea with the spare glove!
Really cool that you've been able to maintain having a toy car while still being a dad - and completely understand that a 'commercial' solution is not on the cards for you. Cheers again and enjoy!
How many layers of glove did you use? Only 1?
That's really cool!
This is a very interesting mod and largely ignored by the general car community. I'm actually trying to do this mod with my E46 BMW 330 but I don't have a diaphragm so i'm blocking the tube with rubber gloves. From what I understand, the diaphragm is simply for blocking the airflow in the tube and doesn't actually amplify the noise in any way?
@bayerischemotorenwerke5252 that's pretty much correct, yes. From my testing I found that thicker and less flexible diaphragms give less noise than thinner / more flexible ones too.
There also appears to be a resonant frequency or frequencies where the diaphragm will make a "fart" type noise, which is affected by the above but can also be adjusted by how much tension is in the diaphragm.
Happy experimenting!
@@CleaR-Motorsport That's interesting because BMW and other manufacturers actually sell a module/device called a "Sound Generator" which they claim has an internal diaphragm that amplifies induction noise somehow. It was found on cars like the E46 Compact and Z4
@@bayerischemotorenwerke5252 very cool! The benefits of having a huge R&D team / budget, compared with one man in a shed, haha.
@@CleaR-Motorsport Don't worry, I think your tube is louder than their device anyway lol
@@bayerischemotorenwerke5252 Ha, alright! Though I think finding a balance between volume and refinement is the trickiest bit, I am sure as an OEM they need to have the balance a bit further towards refinement so not to annoy the majority of owners.
I dont suppose you make/sell the catch can bracket you have in the vid? I have a generic catch can gathering dust…
What the rubber baffle? In other words? How do you guarentee no additional air is sucked in? Reliability is a concern so if you can describe that bit i think youll have another purchase. Sounds great!
I guess this response "flies slightly close to the sun" as there is already another kit shown up which has taken, er, very close inspiration from this one, but there are actually two skins to the diaphragm.
One is 0.33mm thick, made of a material that has an elongation to break of 800% and minimum strength after ageing of 14MPa. The second skin is 0.12mm / 400% / 10MPa. There is also something sandwiched between the two skins to cut down unwanted 'fart' noises which occur around 2000-3000rpm on mid throttle with just a single skin.
The firewall adaptor and these two skins are a firm push fit into the tubing, then sealed with the clamp. Around 40 kits sold so far and ~6 months on my car (including a couple of track days) with no problems, so I am confident of durability and reliability. However, I completely understand if you would need more long-term data before making a decision.
Cheers!
@@CleaR-Motorsport wow this is a great detailed responce. I've seen some folks make some DIY tubes that do not inspire confidence. thank you
@@joker927 You are very welcome - we are all car dudes and I feel sharing stuff like this is important! Please do shout up if you'd like to ask anything else.
Just ordered one the price of the part ain't bad but after shiping and everything i got 109 eur but i hope it's worth it tnx.
Thank you for your order! Yeah, the eBay Global Shipping Program includes all import fees, so you dont have an additional amount to pay on arrival (yay Brexit 🙄). I hope the sound tube is worth to you the amount you chose to pay for it👍
@@CleaR-Motorsport i got it this week it's worth every penny thank you dude. 👊😁
@kristijan8989 oh awesome, that arrived pretty quickly! So glad you like it, thank you very much for the feedback 👍😎
Do you know if this is compatible with the Verus AOS unit?
I haven't see the Verus unit in person / fitted a sound tube to a car with that kit on, so can't say with 100% certainty, but from looking at install photos I see no reason why not. The main tube will pass in front of the ECU and AOS as in this video, and the breather pipe can simply be rerouted and attached to the AOS as normal. Hope that helps! If you are overseas feel free to email me (business name at gmail.com) for an international shipping quote as the GSP pricing through eBay can be quite steep! Thanks.
Do you ship to denmark? And what does it cost?
@rasmusjensen3852 Hello! Yes, check the eBay link in the video description, all the information is there. Thank you.
About to pull the trigger on a ND3. Have you tried fitting this kit to the 2 litre engine?
Haven't seen one in the flesh yet! I see no reason this won't fit, but feel free to send me a photo of the engine bay and I can confirm. Enjoy your new toy 😎
@@CleaR-Motorsport I’m hoping to build it into the ultimate fast road set up without compromising its daily comfort. I’m sure I’ll be in touch for some bits!
Do you know if there is a competitor to the BBR220 kit? That’s the route I was thinking of going down.
@@Throttle.Monkey I would have a chat with BBR about that - as far as I am aware the ECU for the ND3 hasn't been 'unlocked' yet (and that might take some significant time). In terms of kit, the 220 setup appears popular. As with many things like this, there are various good and bad stories about BBRs work and customer service. Up to you to make the call on that one... Personally I would go to Swiatek or MMRSPL for cams / springs and manifold, add your exhaust of choice, then use a reputable tuner to pull it all together - but I am more of a 'DIY' fan.
@@CleaR-Motorsport that’s something I didn’t know! It’s been a toss up between a new ND3 or discounted ND2 so I’m assuming the ecu in that version would be fine? Do you have a website etc? It’d be good to get an idea of options you can provide and I’ve just seen you’ve done the final drive swap which is also on my radar!
@Throttle.Monkey yes the ND2 ECU is available for tweaking on various platforms.
A bunch of info here, including a link to my options form: www.clearmotorsport.co.uk/services/remapping
Hi,
I’d like to buy one for my 1.5 but it already has the stock sound tube. How can I place an order direct with you?
@the_ambient_light Car Cottage now take car of all sales of these, message them via eBay and ask for the kit without elbow. They should then reply with an offer at reduced cost for the partial kit. Thanks.
@@CleaR-Motorsport Thanks for the reply I will message them.
Just recieved it today. How do I remove the pink sponge bung to get more noise, without damaging it?
@the_ambient_light anything long and thin, like a small flat bladed screwdriver, piece of wire, paperclip bent to shape, etc 👍
Thanks for your purchase! Hope you like it.
@@CleaR-Motorsport Just tried that and the one in there was pushed so far in, it’s now fallen inside?
Do I have to put the heatshield(?) on like you? Thanks!
@jun5523 I am sorry but I cannot understand what you mean. Please could you try to explain in a different way? Thank you!
The foils that you wrapped around the intake pipe I guess?
And now I can only find the product without the elbow, do you guys have the product with the elbow?
Sorry my English isn't perfect.😅
Thank you!
@jun5523 I understand now, thanks 🙏
This foil is not related to the sound tube. It was an experiment to see if I could reduce the temperature if the air going into the engine. It worked, but only changed by 1-2 degrees, so I would not bother doing it again!
I hope that helps and makes sense.
@jun5523 it looks like the 'with elbow' version is out of stock at the moment, if you message Car Cottage on eBay they should be able to help. Thanks.
@@CleaR-Motorsport Thank you so much for your help🫡
I ordered one right awayy😁
Who's de-cated header did you buy?
@@alfiebarbone3641 I couldn't find one that suited my requirements, so built one 👍
@@CleaR-Motorsport I'm picking you on my team! LOL
Is diaphragm on the fire wall end durable or will it disintegrate after a year or two? Also can I get this shipped to me in the US?
@michaeldixon6251 honestly, I don't have test data from this length of time, however there are two diaphragms in here. The main barrier is 0.33mm thick, made of a material which has an elongation at break of 800% and a strength after age-related degradation of 14MPa (just over 2000psi). I have tried multiple times to break one of these by hand and can't, for obvious reasons when you consider the strength rating of the material!
Shipping to the US is no problem, check the link in the video description for an eBay link.
Please ask if you'd like to know anything else. Thanks!
@@CleaR-Motorsport cool, can’t wait to get mine! Need to upgrade the sound of my stock nd
@@michaeldixon6251 thank you! I hope you like it.
will this work with the 2.0L
If will! If you already have a sound tube from the factory, you just omit the 90 degree elbow. In this case, I can sell you a kit without this at a lower price if you like, feel free to get in touch directly. Not sure I can write an email address here, but it is my business name at gmail. Thanks!
Can I order without the elbow?
Of course! Contact Car Cottage on eBay (link to their shop in the video description) and John / Jess will sort you out. The price is of course lower than the full kit, too.
What exhaust are you running?
Midpipe is standard, and I built the manifold and silencer. Manifold is 4-1 without cat, 38mm primaries; silencer looks a bit like a BBR Super Sport but with a larger can, and 2" diameter with single exit to match the 1.5L engine and maintain exhaust gas speed as it cools down.
@@CleaR-Motorsport Cheers, pipe arrived today thanks.
@@Schnorbitz super! Thank you very much for your order. Hope you like it 😁
No sound tube: 5:15
Sound tube replacement: 7:23
does this work for nd2?
Yes 👍
@@CleaR-Motorsport does it make it louder? because nd2 already has one. do you just replace the current one on there? thank you!
@Onewheel-MTB that's right yes, it is considerably louder. I have a few customers already who have replaced the OEM item with mine and notice the difference immediately.
Exactly, just remove the stock one (couple of 10mm bolts, then the end pulls out of the firewall) and then mine can be fitted 👍
@@CleaR-Motorsport Thanks! Just made an order from California :D
@@Onewheel-MTB thank you! I hope you love it 😎
Fit 1.5?
Yes, my car is a 1.5L 👍
@@CleaR-Motorsport worth installing it with stock exhaust? I'm planning to change it in the future
@@DUBOMAR I think this is a tough one for me to answer, as everyone has their own preferences - but even with the largest foam plug installed, you will get some induction noise, more than stock. I have a couple of customers with stock exhausts who have installed the tube and love it! They originally had it with the plugs removed completely, but have since stuck the smaller one in since it was a bit too overpowering with the roof up. Hope that helps.
@@CleaR-Motorsport thx a lot mate, I got one 💪
@DUBOMAR you are very welcome. Thank you so much for your order! I hope you like it, please feel free to get in contact if you have any questions or feedback 👍😎
I dont suppose you make/sell the catch can bracket you have in the vid? I have a generic catch can gathering dust…
This isn't something I have available unfortunately, it was just knocked up 'out of necessity' and I don't think it would be a universal fit for every car.
do you have a specific tune ? because i see the red line is after 7500
Yes, I run a small tuning company, so do my own tuning. Rev limiter here is 8000rpm, so it goes past 8000 on the dial since the tach reads 200-300rpm high at full rpm.
@@CleaR-Motorsport really nice, are you not afraid to cause damage to the engine going so high in rpm ?
Thanks. I guess a little bit! However, I don't rev it that high very often at all, since power drop off around 7500. It is just nice to have the extra revs available if needed.
Will this fit 2024 nd 3 ?
I see no reason why not, but I haven't fitted one to the ND3 yet. If you wish to send me a photo of your engine bay, I could confirm either way. Thanks!