I just had to say thanks for Method #3. I have to make some 50mm * 1m fronts for some floating shelves, I'll saw them wider by 1/2 mm, but was wondering about how to plane them down square. I have an electric planer and a hand planer, but I think #3 with the hand planer will be easier to control. Thanks again!
Reminds me of woodwork with Mr Bailey. Face side, face edge, width & thickness he would say. And copy up notes from page 23 - 25 for homework. I used to get 10/10.
I started my woodworking journey one year ago when I decided to turn my garage into a workshop, I’ve assembled lots of hand tools and cordless power tools and I’ve been making small boxes 📦 however I seem to always struggle to plane a square edge with my favourite number4 Stanley forgetting that i bought a Stanley combination plane at the beginning, didn’t really understand its usefulness but I do now, tomorrow morning I’m going to dig it out and have a proper play about with it. Thanks for you wisdom 🤓👍
Thanks Graham - Great video. I typically have an issue where im planning lower on the bench side. The shooting board has been my solution, as i make smaller projects, where often there isnt much timber above the top of the vise to ride a fence along...
Shooting board ftw. 🙂 Actually I made one with two adjustable stops sideways. This turns it even into a thickness planer. Very handy for (roughly) jointing strips for laminate boards. With parallel edges. Besides from squareness.
You are simply brilliant! This solves a problem I have always had with moulding planes: how to keep them straight on every pass. Now it becomes clear to me that using a shooting board (modified) is the solution! Really awesome! Keep these videos coming
Just by holding a squared up block of wood with the left hand, pressing it to the sole of the plane and guiding it along the flat side of the board will do a decent job.
One important point is to have a well balance iron. If it's taking more wood on the left or on the right, no matter the method it will not be square. I'm french so my english is not perfect but it seems to me that you didn't mentioned that. It may not be obvious for everyone, and it takes some skill to adjust this.
If by 'well-balanced' you mean squarely set, then yes of course, but the adjustment is quite simple: just a gentle tap on whatever side of the iron is needed.
@@gjbmunc Yes it's simple. I just thought it would be good to mention it in the comments. By the way, I like your videos, good to see someone talk about old wooden tools.
I have trouble with that! I'm left handed and for whatever reason I lean off to the outside. And when I plane right handed it comes out fine. It's weird. I'll try your tips and thanks so much.
Novice question: Doesn’t the blade have to be perfectly square in the plane? If the plane blade is not accurately adjusted, doesn’t that give an un-square edge, even if the plane body is square?
Holding the knob removes the ability to use your fingers as a fence and does nothing to keep the toe of the plane flat and on the surface and perpendicular to the the side of the workpiece.
Thank you so much for all the ideas. Every one of your videos gives me a new way of doing something.
You are so welcome!
Been watching all the back catalogue.
Just restoring a Stanley Bailey plain I got from an antique shop then gonna try some of these techniques.
Good luck!
I just had to say thanks for Method #3. I have to make some 50mm * 1m fronts for some floating shelves, I'll saw them wider by 1/2 mm, but was wondering about how to plane them down square. I have an electric planer and a hand planer, but I think #3 with the hand planer will be easier to control. Thanks again!
Thank you so much again. Always looking forward to your new contribution to the library of knowledge and skills!
My pleasure!
Reminds me of woodwork with Mr Bailey. Face side, face edge, width & thickness he would say. And copy up notes from page 23 - 25 for homework. I used to get 10/10.
Great!
Great Episode Sir. Really appreciate what you do for us.
My pleasure
Mr. Blackburn, thank you.
You're very welcome!
Great instructions as usual. I shall be getting my Record 078 more often now that for sure.
Rock on!
Thank you for a great video, Graham!
My pleasure!
Once again, a lot of useful information. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
I started my woodworking journey one year ago when I decided to turn my garage into a workshop, I’ve assembled lots of hand tools and cordless power tools and I’ve been making small boxes 📦 however I seem to always struggle to plane a square edge with my favourite number4 Stanley forgetting that i bought a Stanley combination plane at the beginning, didn’t really understand its usefulness but I do now, tomorrow morning I’m going to dig it out and have a proper play about with it. Thanks for you wisdom 🤓👍
Good luck
Thanks Graham - Great video. I typically have an issue where im planning lower on the bench side. The shooting board has been my solution, as i make smaller projects, where often there isnt much timber above the top of the vise to ride a fence along...
Sounds good!
Thanks a bunch, Graham! 😃
I definitely need to make a shooting board... And other jigs!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks. You too!
Shooting board ftw. 🙂 Actually I made one with two adjustable stops sideways. This turns it even into a thickness planer. Very handy for (roughly) jointing strips for laminate boards. With parallel edges. Besides from squareness.
Great idea!
I would like to see a picture of your shooting board with adjustable stops.
thanks
You're welcome!
Thank you for sharing.
My pleasure!
Nice.
Thanks!
Great
Thanks.
Shooting boards are awesome. I haven't tried attaching a fence to my plane, but that would be an option for thinner boards to help with stability.
It's a good idea.
You are simply brilliant! This solves a problem I have always had with moulding planes: how to keep them straight on every pass. Now it becomes clear to me that using a shooting board (modified) is the solution! Really awesome! Keep these videos coming
Thanks!
Just by holding a squared up block of wood with the left hand, pressing it to the sole of the plane and guiding it along the flat side of the board will do a decent job.
Of course. Another example of the usefulness of using a guide or jig as opposed to doing everything freehand!
@@gjbmunc Yes but one needs to be mindful of he camber!
One important point is to have a well balance iron. If it's taking more wood on the left or on the right, no matter the method it will not be square. I'm french so my english is not perfect but it seems to me that you didn't mentioned that. It may not be obvious for everyone, and it takes some skill to adjust this.
If by 'well-balanced' you mean squarely set, then yes of course, but the adjustment is quite simple: just a gentle tap on whatever side of the iron is needed.
@@gjbmunc Yes it's simple. I just thought it would be good to mention it in the comments. By the way, I like your videos, good to see someone talk about old wooden tools.
That last shooting plane is a beauty, who made it?
Lie-Nielsen.
I have trouble with that! I'm left handed and for whatever reason I lean off to the outside. And when I plane right handed it comes out fine. It's weird. I'll try your tips and thanks so much.
Good luck.
Hi. What is this last plane you used (with the shooting board)? Thanks.
A now discontinued Lie-Nielsen shooting board plane - but they do have a newer version.
Thank you.
I Guess you are thinking about the no 51 plane? If so i prefer the plane you are using. It looks heavier and more compact.
M'y Bad i fond thé #9.
Novice question: Doesn’t the blade have to be perfectly square in the plane? If the plane blade is not accurately adjusted, doesn’t that give an un-square edge, even if the plane body is square?
absolutely.
Why do you hate knobs?
Holding the knob removes the ability to use your fingers as a fence and does nothing to keep the toe of the plane flat and on the surface and perpendicular to the the side of the workpiece.