By watching you and Paul seller's I've learnt enough to make some good quality projects , thank you for being so kind with sharing your knowledge. As the old saying goes , sharing your knowledge is the way to immediately.
What a privilege to find a truly skilled tool sharpener who knows things I've never even heard of, yet puts the message accross in a low-key, relaxed, and most of all authoritative way. Thank you so much!
Graham, when scribing the iron to the moulding profile, I find using layout fluid works best. Find it at an industrial supply store. Brush it on the back side, scribe, file. The fluid comes off when the back of the iron is flattened.
You can get the same effect if you have a dry erase marker. It isn't quite as resistant to friction as layout fluid (which isn't saying much) but it's close enough that I never got more. I also have a special formula sharpie for writing on metal that I keep around when I want marks to be more durable
Excellent information as always, Mr. Blackburn. I have found an abundance of information on your channel and enjoy the detail that you give about woodworking and the tools used.
I found a shagged water stone on hard rubbish recently. It was a real mess. Not a flat surface in sight. So i decided to cut it into wedges with a hacksaw. It took quite a while but the 'wet stone' wedges came out beautifully and are my current favourite go-to stone for tricky shaped blades. Thanks for another good vid!
Great video. What angle should the back of a moulding plane iron be. And BTW, though I have used the 55 to do some nice work I have been collecting and using the wooden moulding planes too. A lot less challenging to use. But they have cost me between $25 to $50 Aussie $s ea. Thank you
The angle depends on the quality of the iron, but 26 degrees isa good plave to start. (Not sure how much an Aussie dollar is, but over time I'm sure you'll be glad.)
By watching you and Paul seller's I've learnt enough to make some good quality projects , thank you for being so kind with sharing your knowledge. As the old saying goes , sharing your knowledge is the way to immediately.
You are very welcome
I love sharpening it’s relaxing and satisfying when you use that tool and it glides through the wood.
It really is!
Ohhh... Really interesting indeed! Thanks a bunch for the lesson, Graham! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks, you too!
What a privilege to find a truly skilled tool sharpener who knows things I've never even heard of, yet puts the message accross in a low-key, relaxed, and most of all authoritative way. Thank you so much!
Glad you enjoyed it
Graham, when scribing the iron to the moulding profile, I find using layout fluid works best. Find it at an industrial supply store. Brush it on the back side, scribe, file. The fluid comes off when the back of the iron is flattened.
You can get the same effect if you have a dry erase marker. It isn't quite as resistant to friction as layout fluid (which isn't saying much) but it's close enough that I never got more. I also have a special formula sharpie for writing on metal that I keep around when I want marks to be more durable
Both great ideas!
Thank you!
You're welcome!
That plane at 10:05 is 52 years older than Australia! How about that.
They made them to last!
Thanks for your excelent lesson!
You're welcome!
Top man Thank you for sharing your knowledge 🙏
Pleaased to do so.
Excellent information as always, Mr. Blackburn. I have found an abundance of information on your channel and enjoy the detail that you give about woodworking and the tools used.
You're welcome!
Another informative video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
You're welcome.
thanks, I like your advice about skewing the file
Glad it was helpful!
A cheap way is to profile a piece of wood wrapping sand paper of required grit.
Also a good idea. Try carborundum paper too.
I found a shagged water stone on hard rubbish recently. It was a real mess. Not a flat surface in sight. So i decided to cut it into wedges with a hacksaw. It took quite a while but the 'wet stone' wedges came out beautifully and are my current favourite go-to stone for tricky shaped blades. Thanks for another good vid!
Sounds cool.
Very interesting that was. I have quite a few of the wood planes, and really haven't used them. Never knew how to take blades out. I do now
Great!
Great video. What angle should the back of a moulding plane iron be. And BTW, though I have used the 55 to do some nice work I have been collecting and using the wooden moulding planes too. A lot less challenging to use. But they have cost me between $25 to $50 Aussie $s ea. Thank you
The angle depends on the quality of the iron, but 26 degrees isa good plave to start. (Not sure how much an Aussie dollar is, but over time I'm sure you'll be glad.)
Thank you! RWB ❤🎉
Any time!
Thank you.
You're welcome!
Nice survey. Looking forward to more about sharpening. Thank you.
You're welcome.
i would be interested in see something on how to sharpen incannel gouge
Hoping to do a carving tool sharpening episode soon. Stay tuned!
Thanks, it was good video!!
Glad you liked it!
Very cool. Thank you.
Glad you liked it!
Chainsaw files are ideal.
Yep, Use whatever you've got.
Thank you
You're welcome
Move your mic to the top of your apron, or get a better one. Can wearily hear you
go to see a otologist. 👂🏼
Saving up for one. I plan to,