"2.5 Gigabits ought to be enough for anybody" 25 years ago when we developed the 1st 2.5G channel card for DWDM we figured it was enough bandwidth for the whole internet!
I am trying not to mock his video title. Honestly, if you’re hitting the limits of 1 Gbe, 2.5 Gbe is not going to be an upgrade. Bite the bullet and go to 10 Gbe. The only reason they are selling 2.5 Gbe as an upgrade is because system or motherboard manufacturers are cheap. Quit giving them a market for their junk.
He is also a bit anal retentive. Red shirt Jeff should make sure the dust is first secured in a plastic bag, then placed in a brown paper bag and then sealed securely with a strong adhesive before labeling it accordingly and driving it to a proper disposal facility.
3:08 AH! Pro Tip: Never begin your forward feed with a fish wire that isn't taped. I learned this the day I hooked an existing wire trying to retract and retry. I had to cut a hole just to unhook because I didn't know what it was hooked on and if it was safe to just pull until the fish wire straightened out. Avoid re-suffering my suffering, my friend.
Tell red Jeff. Get a piece of paper fold it on a 1/3 then pull the smaller 1/3 in on each side and celotape the edge to form a pouch. Then on the larger 2/3 apply your tape and stick to wall. Then all the dust just drops into the paper pouch. Remove from wall and throw in bin. No mess and no messing about.
@@JeffGeerling Tell red shirt Jeff about an enveloppe. It's those paper things people used before email to send mail to each other. Less folding, same concept.
@@JeffGeerling yeah I did this when cutting a whole in my van roof to install a vent I used a small trash bag tapped it so it would catch all of the metal no mess easy peazy
@@boblewis5558 I've done this with an angle grinder when cutting cable channels.. Can confirm it works ace if your making lots and lots of dust! Just becareful not to snag the disk in the wall as angle grinders bite! Or just tape it to the grinder. Basically poor man's wall cable chaser.
Protip: While drilling holes into the wall it's good to have a second person holding a vacuum right below the drill. That way most of the dust doesn't hit the floor.
@@JeffGeerling I do something similar with the painter's tape, but I actually use a coffee filter slightly folded into a cone shape instead. I've mounted TV's over carpet and had not one bit of drywall dust fall out using this method.
I was in the same boat as you. I wanted WiFi 6 to see if I can edit my videos from the couch. Unfortunately I came to the same conclusion as you, light video editing works but its not replacing my direct 10G connection.
Hi Jeff, this has quickly become one of my favorite UA-cam channels. You are a talented teacher and do extremely well in front of the camera. I love your experiments and selection of topics. At the end of almost all of your videos I find myself thinking, "WOW, I want to do that!" Keep up the good work. You'll be hitting 1M subscribers very soon I bet!!
Pro-tip, for drilling holes in drywall, take a regular mailing envelope, puff it out, and then tape the flap to the wall. That'll catch the dust in a single, easy-to-remove step.
*ought to be enough Edit: thanks for correcting it at for the heart, its a good video! Having had problems in the past with home networking is something I pay attention to now, spotty WiFi is a pain in the ass. Keep up the good stuff! Edit 2: edits remove hearts, now I look foolish lol
Really refreshing to see a non-Ubiquity network. Don't get me wrong, they make great devices, but they're not the only show in town, and their not for everyone.
nice job! I actually run OM3 fiber in my living room and have it hooked up to a switch, all the devices in the TV cabinet is connected to the switch and have very reliable wire connection.
around 0:55 : Just a word of warning: attaching power cables to the bottom of floor joists may be in violation of the NEC. Your options to become code compliant are 1.) drill holes through the joists and feed them through there, 2.) put your cables through conduit, or 3.) put your cables on what the NEC calls running boards. Who cares? Maybe noone, maybe your homeowner's insurance company, maybe a building inspector for future electrical or possibly unrelated work. Can't say that I have experience with what happens when there are code violations, but insurance refusing to pay if your house burns down springs to mind as possible.
Agree, all house renovations or basement completions I have done I've fed the wires and plumbing through the joists. I think metal conduits though are acceptable, but not bare wire.
So... I actually spoke with two local electricians, and had this work permitted/inspected. If you run cables below joists either stapled to a solid wood board, or inside a physically-protected area (like the space between the I-beam and the HVAC ductwork), it is fine. See 334.15 C ;)
@@JeffGeerling , thank you for the clarification. Just trying to make sure you're not in trouble. Obviously, I'm just another Joe Homeowner , not an electrician or building inspector. Was trying to be careful with words like "may" instead of "is".
@@DrRChandra Heh, I have some stories to tell about a (hopefully upcoming) solar project... I have had some great and annoyingly bad experiences with permits and inspections locally.
Tip for collecting dust when drilling walls. Tape an open envelope to the wall below the drilling area. The dust falls down the taped envelope flap into the open envelope. Very effective.
If you pull a wire and it's in an orientation that could pull the wire back down I'd suggest giving it an in wall attachment so when you unplug your access point your wire doesn't vanish into the basement. I'd also leave a loop of maybe 1 meter just in case.
With cable pulling, it's worth pulling through two strings and leaving one in place. Tie off to the access point etc that you've pulled the cable to. Next time you cable pull in that location you can pull another string through.
For longer runs or wall jacks I usually do this-for this particular AP location, I don't see ever needing another run up there, so I left it. If I need to pull through that bay up into the attic, I'll have to fish down from the top plate regardless.
i find it really funny we over here in germany have really bad internet in the most places but in houses we lay cat 7 cables everywhere, i´m always amazed to see overseas you still use cat 5 or 6 instead of cat7 and cat 8 is also on the horizon
I just want to say the fact you don't just buy new things is really inspiring as someone who installed pihole on a pi 2 b I found I had from high school in the last month. Yeah now I'm ordering some pi zero 2 w's to share with friends and family if they want pihole, but that 2 b is mine and has a special place in my heart. That old hardware is running just fine and all new things and the latest and greatest isn't what home lab is about, it's about making your home (technology in particular) cozier... with you you have and without breaking the bank if you don't have something
For short runs like this sometimes it’s easier to use a smaller chain to feed down to where you tie off the string. I’ve done this a bunch of times when fishing drops from an attic into bedrooms.
I'm gonna wait for a OpenWrt supported cheap wifi6 AP. Then I'll add a 2.5g switch. Wires are already cat6 in most important locations the others are cat5e. But then I'll have to upgrade my router. Right now I'm running LCAP for lan side. Where I live walls are made of bricks not easy to route new stuff!
Yikes! I'm glad I just have to deal with 2x4s and drywall. The worst install I worked on was in a school with every wall being one of those giant cinder blocks. We ended up running a few conduits down the main hallway, and luckily someone else was in charge of drilling the holes for mounting it and the hole through to each classroom. Pulling some of those runs (a couple were 300' with a couple bends) was fun, though. Lots of cable snot.
@@JeffGeerling Fortunately, code regulations required since late 80s start of 90s separate power and telephone / data / TV conduits. (Here cables must be running in conduits) For all the nerds out there I have a really huge comment explaining Italian code in a video called "what an UK electrician can learn from Italian wiring" from artisan electric. Anyway, when my father restored the house he brought the coaxial and the telephone to all the rooms. I have made up the space and now I have ethernet everywhere. For the analog phone system I use the empty pairs of rooms without a PC. (Backed is digital via VoIP and i have a PBX and an ATA)
@@tuttocrafting There are a few cities in the US where conduit is required for power, at least... but residential, it's usually not required for low-voltage wiring (especially in basements or crawlspaces, where wires are typically less likely to get interference from day-to-day occupants of the house...).
I had a very different experience when I was looking into 10g or 2.5g: Price is basically the same (or close enough). This is especially true for switches, less so for network cards (but used is perfectly fine, often even better than new cause it's enterprise level gear). I went for 10g on the main connections only (PCs, Servers), which is still spread over 2 floors so the cross-floor connection also needed 10g. But my entire investment in networking is still lower than the price of that 24 port 2.5g switch alone (~800 bucks). I did go for mostly used network cards, but cabling is all new/homemade as well. For switches, Mikrotik has some great and afforable options that I used. 24x1g, 2x10g, 175€ for the Rack/server side, and one of those 4x 10g for 120€ ones for the PCs (and upling, so >2 needed). 8 port 10g switches can be had for around 300€ I think, but they of course lack PoE (and being typically SFP+ they physically can't have PoE).
Short advice about dust collection when drilling into walls: take a vacuum cleaner (the stronger the better) and start vacuuming some 5 cm under the future hole. Either with no brush attached or with a narrow (10 cm wide) brush. It will catch more than 95% of the falling dust
@@JeffGeerling Using a vacuum can be a bad idea for drywall dust because unless it has a HEPA filter, or is a whole house vacuum that vents outside, it will put some of that back out into the air. Drywall dust also chokes out vacuum filters quickly. For smaller holes, you just drill slowly so it doesn't get airborne and you can just put a Postit note on the wall, right below the hole, folded up to catch the fallout.
Well since 3.5 years ago my holes were almost exclusively in masonry. Not much of a workout even for my 12V non-impact drilling machine. Drywall is even easier. So holding the machine with one hand and the vacuum cleaner with the other was never too hard. As for the vacuum's filters, I couldn't thank my wife more for wanting a Dyson! I've never seen such fine dust as the one the cyclone separator is able to extract. The filter after the saparator barely gets dirty.
This is not the first time I've heard anyone say that "for 10GbE I'd have to replace all of my Cat 5e cabling," which per the standards this may be accurate although not always true in practice. I purchased my home a few years ago (built 2005) and it was wired with Cat5e cabling to almost every room. I have a 10G distribution switch in the basement and recently added a 10G switch to the office, and you know what? the Cat5e cabling in the walls works at the 10G speeds. Granted the cable run is short between to the two, between 50-100 ft, but unless you're trying to run 10G speeds on really long Cat5e runs, you can probably reach or at least get close to 10G speeds on Cat5e, which I feel like is either just unknown or a misconception a lot of people share. regardless, great video, love this channel.
This is true, and especially for short runs, it can work. If you want to save on existing cabling it's worth a try; but I can't in good conscience recommend improperly-rated cable, or a thousand commenters would rain hellfire on my video for going against spec ;)
The main issue with 2.5G is the switches aren't actually any cheaper than 10G yet. For the price of that QNAP box, I could buy a full-10G switch from Mikrotik and just put PoE injectors on all my APs.
How much are 10g switches, from a refutable brand? I know on a smaller scale (4-6ports) I can get 2.5 managed switches for $50, is there a 10g switch similar price?
I've had that switch in my amazon wishlist for a while. I have a few wifi6 APs (with 2.5 GB ports), so I don't tend to ever hit any of the limitations of my current 1GB poe switch. My POE switch (mikrotik crs318) does use a 10GB uplink to the rest of my 10GB network. Maybe one day if I get enough wifi6 devices, I will need to upgrade the switch. The QNAP seems to have the best price/port ratio for a 2.5GB switch and isn't overly huge size wise.
My first Ethernet experience was with 10base5 connecting VAX 11/780 computers. I also hand wired some Ethernet controllers on prototype boards for Data General Eclipse computers. My first LAN experience was in early 1978 on the Air Canada reservation system, which used time division multiplexing (TDM), instead of packets, over triaxial cable. It ran at a blazing 8 Mb/s with a slower 2 Mb network over coax.
Heads up with the QNAP switch, I had issues with one of their switches blocking multicast traffic, never was able to resolve it and QNAP support ignored every message I sent about it. Ended up switching to an old Brocade switch.
@@JeffGeerling It was the guardian smart edge switch (qgd-1602p) So its still on their line up. Maybe a software update has resolved it in the past year or so though.
you have a very nice home. I am very jealous of your basement, I have to use a closet for my network gear. I installed a wifi 6 AP recently as well. most excellent!
Always always have the antennae of your access point parallel to each other. The spacing between the antennae is not random and has been carefully designed to match the wavelength of 2.4 & 5Ghz frequency.
Redshirt Jeff has doesn't need safety goggles because he has superman-like laser eyes which zap any particles falling into his eyes. He is just too modest to talk about it.
Thanks for the video! The increase in bandwidth my not be noticeable now, but i'm hoping that by doing proper wiring with CAT6a now (There are no Ethernet anywhere in this house!) that the upgrade process later will be more drop-in, and less whole home renovation when Gig+ becomes commonplace. i'm a Bit wary of punching big holes in the wall, and seeing you immediately suggest such a nice plug made it all feel much more manageable. you're right of course, in the end looks matter, especially when you may need to put an AP on a kitchen wall... Loving each and every video! keep it up!
Thanks for a lot of great content Jeff. You are going to have a laugh about this when you look back in 10 years time or so - when it comes to IT nothing is ever enough. I had a college back in the mid 1980’ies about to buy a new hard drive - he asked us colleagues if the should buy a 80 MB or a 120 MB hard disk and we all shouted 120 (if you can afford it). His reply was: “But I’m never going to need all that space - no ever”
Oh I understand-the video's title is a reference back to a misattributed Bill Gates quote. I already want 10 Gbps WiFi and 100 Gbps wired networking :P - budgets always take precedence though.
Awesome video. I've spent more time than I'd like to acknowledge tweaking my new UniFi U6-Pro AP. Channel width, channel, transmit power. End of the day, the best performance I have been able to get (in the same room as the AP) is 741 Mbps down and 380 Mbps up on openspeedtest. Ohh ya, I have Google Fiber (1 Gbps). I think that's darn close to real-world max of WiFi 6 for now. Client is MacBook Pro 16" M1 Max.
There are dedicated "low voltage" boxes (orange) which is basically a single gang box-shaped frame, so you can use a standard faceplate that takes... keystone jacks. There are keystone jacks that are basically back-to-back RJ45s. What I've done is left the keystone out and pluged the cable RJ45 into the device; when I got ready to sell the house, I put in a keystone jack and snap the cable into it so it looks finished.
Tape an envelope to the wall, folding the corners so it acts as a pocket to catch the dust.. with the right tape you can pull and re-attach multiple times to do multiple holes.
I upgraded from WiFi 5 mesh to a single business grade WiFi 6 AP last year. I'm only running GbE as I am not saturating that link and I only gave 105 Mbs Internet. All devices are managed locally.
Can't wait long enough on a cheap (and actually affordable) Wifi 6E AP since our crappy Wifi5 Router from our ISP is dropping my connection *constantly* (To a Wifi6E PC and Wifi6E Phone on 5Ghz)
This is why I put in an in-wall Access Point in the Kitchen. A nice 802.11AC Ubiquiti with just a little protrusion compared to the phone jack that was there before. I went full Ubiquiti at move in and have been separated Router and Access Points ever since. I can even implement failover and choice routing with FiOS (no blocked server ports for VPN) and Comcast (required for Xfinity Roku app).
@@VolkerHett Well, there’s OPNsense and similar, though you’ll need a lot of multiport NICs (and PCIe ports to put them) if you want a lot of ports. 8 ports should be doable, though.
@@keyboard_g just assign separate vlan for the hosted Pi's and isolate them from the main network using firewall... also, the site he hosting are running inside k8s, in a isolated k8s network with LB in front.
I used to think 200 was more than enough for anybody! Now I have 1 gig and I don’t know how I made do with only 200! The same thing will happen with two. 5 GB it’ll be great for about 10 years but it’ll get outdated as file sizes get bigger. I definitely think 2.5 gig will be enough to get us through to 2040 comfortably. Unless something revolutionary happens.
The Horrible Fright Tools sells a set of 10 39" straight fiberglass rods that screw together to fish wires through walls. These have worked excellent for me fishing wire up through straight wall cavities. I use them more than the reeled/rolled kind. they also sell nylon rolled which I also find easier to work with than metal. Both are inexpensive.
Add a service loop next to your server somewhere. That way you will always have extra Cable. I used to do at least 3/4 of a loop the size of the server, usually like 4-6 feet. Nothing sucks more that a cable being 1 foot to short to fully open the back of the server
The internal network of my house is 1gbps. For that I use a Wi-Fi router from a cable company that I found lying around. My three networks that I use as an ISP come from wifi routers as 100mbps clients, which connect to each other and the whole is connected to a gigabit card to an Ubuntu server running a virtual machine with pfSense. All armed with things I found lying around. I have redundant internet at home. I didn't spend a penny. I also don't pay a dime to connect to the Internet.
Quick tip for red Jeff, and anyone else reading: If you have a second person on hand, tell them hold up a vacuum/shop vac to the hole you’re drilling, the tape thing works great, but vacuum temds to work even better… Any if you’re feeling fancy, 3d print an adapter to use a tripod instead of that second person to hold up the vacuum hose/tube
It would be nice, though most of my installs are done solo :( It's a luxury when I get to work with my Dad on these projects, since I am traditionally 'vacuum guy'.
Underrated comment. When I see these types of videos on larger channels, I'm always amazed at how smooth they can be-and they often show details better than I'm able to. Of course, if I could get a dedicated camera person that would help, especially with detail shots.
Video editing over the network starts at 10Gbe (well, 8Gbe but ehm you know...). A lot depends on bitrates, but not all of it. As you know better then I do, it also depends on the number of files and / or the size of them. One can also choose to become a proxy pro, but the advantages of proxies will soon need a rerate once cameras start at 8K. I hear one can gain some speed by using two servers. One for the clips and one for the database. Can't say if it's true. I only have one server. Poor me.
Well I was thinking on upgrading to a 2.5G AP and Switch but I’m noticing that the speeds are pretty much the Same in my current setup, I have two HUAWEI ax3 APs with Ethernet backhaul.
A tip. When you have run the cables though the square cable thing and have crimped it into the metal connector then before you close the metal wings i like to recommend to put 1 strip of tape inside the metal wings across the cable ends that stick out. In some cases it can short everything if the end of the wires touch the metal on the inside and then you get no signal. I tried it a few times and it is just a pain in the x so now i always put a small strip of tape on top of the wires after i have cut them in length to avoid this issue. Els the rj45 metal connector that you can assembler your self is great. I notised in the video that no copper band was wrabbed around the big cable.. Personaly i also dident do this my self since it fall off to easy and honestly i had 0 problems not using it. DO NOT buy cat 8 cables they can do 40Gbps but you cannot afford to buy the equipment that can send data that fast though the cables.. just by cat 7 it is insanely fast anyway and i recall correctly and you wont as an ordinary person have any network that can do that kind of speed for at least 10-15 years anyway ;-) go for the 2,5 and in the future when 10gbps become much cheaper then upgrade the ruter and switch. ( also honestly its properbly only your pc and nas server that can do 2,5 your tv and other devises run slower ).
Only 2.5 Gb? Yesterday, I found out my ISP will soon be offering symmetrical 8 Gb and later 10 Gb connections. Why carefully remove the tape to avoid spilling the dust? Just use your vacuum cleaner (gotta keep those vacuums clean) to suck up the dust, before removing the tape. I do not put plugs on solid cable. I put a keystone jack on and then use a short patch cord. You don't have to turn down devices just to change switches. If you want to minimize interruption, try having both switches powered up and join them with 1 patch cable. Then move the cables, one at a time, from one switch to the other. My network cables were installed by my ISP. When I got my first cable modem, they sent 2 guys to run the cable from one end of my condo, where the cable came in, to the other end, where my "office" is. I provided 2 runs of plain CAT5 (5e wasn't available then), to pull through with the coax. They fished through the walls, along side air ducts, over my closet and bathroom ceilings, across the laundry room ceiling, down behind the water heater and into the office closet. It took them 3 hours and they even patched the drywall where they cut it. The cables are only visible where they cross my laundry room ceiling. I then terminated the CAT5 cables with keystone jacks, mounted in wall plates in my living and bed rooms and in a box in the closet. I later ran another piece of CAT5 around 10 years ago, for my access point. My network now consists of a cable modem, providing a 500/20 connection, pfSense firewall/router running on a Qotom mini PC, Cisco 8 port switch and Unifi AC-Lite AP. I also labeled the Ethernet cables.
I agree re network kit. I do prefer to be able to configure it locally via a browser, rather than using an "app" or cloud solution. A number of cloud solutions need a local controller to keep the settings if the power goes off, which is not very user friendly, and as has been seen recently, if the hardware provider closes their doors, so does the cloud, and all those cloud managed devices..
Run parsec on the laptop and connect to your editing workstation. Then the workstation can handle the large file transfers for editing while the only data the laptop deals with is the video stream. That should give you a decent experience for light editing away from the desk.
I've been considering this-also for remote editing like LTT was doing during the lockdowns. Hopefully I can get some time to test parsec and a couple other options soon.
Here my 5 cents: I would prefere 8x10Gbit (for the 2-3 computers and the one AP that have 10Gbit) and keep the others on 1x1Gbit with the existing switch. That saves money...
I've done exactly that. I have a lot of stuff that's limited to 100/1000mbit anyway. Splitting it out also meant that I could use SFP+ (cheaper, less heat/energy) for the 10gb devices.
At the time I couldn't find one in stock (I actually ordered it a few months ago). Interested in hearing what kind of speeds you can get through it if you use a 6E device...
This was a fantastic guide / demonstration of residential cable pulling, appropriate equipment, and the considerations for getting this all set up, however, I *really* wish that 2.5gb networking would die a quick death. 10gb networking CAME FIRST and *should* be cheap and on EVERYTHING now (i mean... we started seeing this equipment in the early 2000's... it's 2022... if we simply demanded that 10g ethernet be on everything we currently have gigabit on now, it would be cheap and easy, instead of providing an intermediate standard that's only 1/4 the bandwidth for some reason.
2.5 Gigabits ought to be enough today. I've upgraded my home network to muilt-gig with devices between 1-10GB and my home server to it's backup server is a 40 GB link.
Hi, Jeff! You should do a video on what equipment you would use if you could start from scratch building your home network for 10GBs and 2.5GBs speeds and WiFi. Do it for both within budget and no holds barred super network. :) This would make a very interesting video!
Zyxel, (OEM for netgear AP's) got an AP that tops iperf3 at *1.3Gbps* on a 160Mhz channel, 5Ghz, Wifi6 (non E) . Model is NWA210AX, i had it from almost a year and knock on wood its rock solid! Also i use it to split my IOT WiFi into different VLANs since it supports transmitting multiple SSID's per radio (on either 2.4 and 5GHz) and each SSID can be set to a different VLAN! love business AP's waaaay more flexible than gamming WIFI routers. planning on getting another one and to have 802.11kv roaming between them for my homes downstairs.
I remember when IBM came out with the PC, with the RAM hardwired on the motherboard, they actually said, "No one will ever need more than 64K of RAM"... RAM, storage, and network have become "limitless" resources. One can never get "enough", and will always need/want more...
I think it's likely your runs are short enough that Cat5e could run 10gb. It's generally capable up to 30 meters despite the standards not requiring it. It'd be a good video to test your existing runs with your equipment and see what speeds you can get working.
Hot tip from Red Shirt Rich: Use the removed blue shield to separate and straighten individual channel wires by sliding it up between its twisted pair and pinching while sliding it back off. Also, drink craft beer.
I always ran cable by dropping the string down the hole with a washer on it to weigh it down and gravity does the rest but that doesnt work on all wall types lol
I saw your review for this switch on Amyzn. If only it wasn't 700$ I would buy it, that thing tics all my boxes! POE+ 2.5G, 10G uplink, managed switch! It would be *perfect* for my wired IP camera security system and wireless AP setup. Hoping the prices of these POE 2.5G switches come down soon!
I'll be adding more 10G and fiber someday-my goal is to build a new office / studio on the other side of the basement, and put in a full 42U rack (hopefully I can get it to fit!).
this is all well and good but really we are approaching advent of commodity 100g - you can get a 100g switch for less than 1000 - well worth it - red shirt will have to up his game a bit to keep up with the jones - look at the numbers - pay 2x for a switch and get 10x the bw - if only isp bw was making such big strides then we could all be happy - isp is the reason we can't have good things
I LOVE how easy it is to drill holes and run wires is in your part of the World :D In my part of the World, its, brick, cement, (concrete and steel on occasion), but mostly brick and cement, we typically also don't have a "basement", but this is a fun watch anyway :D
It'd be nice to see a recommended setup that mixes 2.5Gbe and 1Gbe devices on the same network. I only have two PCs capable of 2.5Gbe, which might expand to 4 with a couple of APs. I have probably 10 other things (consoles, TVs, printers, cameras, etc) that are fine with a gigabit connection. It'd be nice to see a guide to a 'budget' 2.5Gbe upgrade that doesn't necessitate spending like $500 on a switch.
With my Unifi U6-LR AP I did an 800mbps speedtest with a 1gbps backplane to the PoE switch. I'm sure this AP must have a bit more jam in it. Maybe a pressure test with multiple devices at the same time or try the test with a device that has a better radio. Would be nice to see > 1gbps throughput!!
"Fiber runs through your hose probably isn't happening any time soon" Might only be one run, but I just pulled a 30m om4 lc fiber , only though an exposed-joist ceiling in a basement (so far), to connect a pair of Intel x520-da2 nic's, one in my homelab/virtualization server, one in my primary desktop. 600MB/s smb3 (untuned and without multichannel setup) is pretty fun. Eventually when rdma 10g or 25g nic's get affordable (for me), I'll migrate the x520's to other hosts (pulling some more fiber to connect them), and upgrade.
"2.5 Gigabits ought to be enough for anybody" 25 years ago when we developed the 1st 2.5G channel card for DWDM we figured it was enough bandwidth for the whole internet!
And it would be, if not for facebook and twitter. Oh, and youtube. 😁
@@d00dEEE And Netflix. And Webex/Zoom. And VOIP. And…
I am trying not to mock his video title. Honestly, if you’re hitting the limits of 1 Gbe, 2.5 Gbe is not going to be an upgrade. Bite the bullet and go to 10 Gbe. The only reason they are selling 2.5 Gbe as an upgrade is because system or motherboard manufacturers are cheap. Quit giving them a market for their junk.
And now I need 10 gig minimum for data storage for group video editing.
@@Knirin if apple manages to standardize 10g for their base mac mini. We are going to have 10g in everything our phones will also start getting 10g.
Red Shirt Jeff is very calm and professional in this video. Too calm, too professional. Something is going to happen later
It's kind of like when you ground your kid, and they're calm for a bit, until they start their troubles all over again a week later.
I thought it was "Retro Jeff" 🤣
Lol yeah, especially after Jeff see's this video of him roasting him :P
He is also a bit anal retentive. Red shirt Jeff should make sure the dust is first secured in a plastic bag, then placed in a brown paper bag and then sealed securely with a strong adhesive before labeling it accordingly and driving it to a proper disposal facility.
@@chswin this is great but you omitted first testing for lead paint
This man wants to load his webpages before the server receives it's first get request, and I 100% support it
I build AI so I can watch the next UA-cam video before it even posts.
Next DIY build : home quantum computer
But can it post a new video before it's uploaded? And can I comment on it before it's released? So many meaningful questions...
@@igordasunddas3377 That will violate causality. Not even quantum computers could do that regardless of scale.
@@Trident_Euclid fun at parties
3:08 AH! Pro Tip: Never begin your forward feed with a fish wire that isn't taped. I learned this the day I hooked an existing wire trying to retract and retry. I had to cut a hole just to unhook because I didn't know what it was hooked on and if it was safe to just pull until the fish wire straightened out. Avoid re-suffering my suffering, my friend.
Tell red Jeff.
Get a piece of paper fold it on a 1/3 then pull the smaller 1/3 in on each side and celotape the edge to form a pouch.
Then on the larger 2/3 apply your tape and stick to wall.
Then all the dust just drops into the paper pouch.
Remove from wall and throw in bin.
No mess and no messing about.
He's excited to try this out!
@@JeffGeerling Tell red shirt Jeff about an enveloppe.
It's those paper things people used before email to send mail to each other.
Less folding, same concept.
@@JeffGeerling yeah I did this when cutting a whole in my van roof to install a vent I used a small trash bag tapped it so it would catch all of the metal no mess easy peazy
@@JeffGeerling one hand for the drill and the other for the vacuum hose nozzle right under the drill bit has ALWAYS worked for me!
@@boblewis5558 I've done this with an angle grinder when cutting cable channels..
Can confirm it works ace if your making lots and lots of dust!
Just becareful not to snag the disk in the wall as angle grinders bite!
Or just tape it to the grinder.
Basically poor man's wall cable chaser.
Protip: While drilling holes into the wall it's good to have a second person holding a vacuum right below the drill. That way most of the dust doesn't hit the floor.
Ideally, but I can only really do these projects alone, since most of my kids are too young to be 'helpful' in a good way 😜
@@JeffGeerling You could hold the vacuum for Red Shirt Jeff.
@@JeffGeerling do you and red shirt Jeff not get on well enough to work together?
@@jonathanshaw6784 yeah, they fight so badly, that you can't really see them in the same room together. It's always only one or the other.
@@JeffGeerling I do something similar with the painter's tape, but I actually use a coffee filter slightly folded into a cone shape instead. I've mounted TV's over carpet and had not one bit of drywall dust fall out using this method.
I was in the same boat as you. I wanted WiFi 6 to see if I can edit my videos from the couch. Unfortunately I came to the same conclusion as you, light video editing works but its not replacing my direct 10G connection.
#UA-camrProblems
I'm hopeful maybe WiFi 7 will be able to do it. We'll see in a couple years...
@@JeffGeerling unless you're doing 4k by then 😂
Hi Jeff, this has quickly become one of my favorite UA-cam channels. You are a talented teacher and do extremely well in front of the camera. I love your experiments and selection of topics. At the end of almost all of your videos I find myself thinking, "WOW, I want to do that!" Keep up the good work. You'll be hitting 1M subscribers very soon I bet!!
Always buy good quality keystones. I’ve had so many problems with cheap ones.
Also, cloud managed anything should be outlawed.
@aruneh "cloud managed anything should be outlawed." - But we like having our devices bricked when the manufacturer goes under.
Unless it's self managed cloud hosted
@@andrewjohnston359 .. until the cloud host screws you over.
Having the option is okay, but requiring it is definitely problematic.
I have a perfectly functional meraki mr34 that I bought for cheap off ebay that is now ewaste because it requires expensive cloud managing....
Pro-tip, for drilling holes in drywall, take a regular mailing envelope, puff it out, and then tape the flap to the wall. That'll catch the dust in a single, easy-to-remove step.
If you don't have envelopes, just fold paper to act like one, don't forget to seal/fold the sides
Or use a vacuum cleaner when making the hole.
*ought to be enough
Edit: thanks for correcting it at for the heart, its a good video!
Having had problems in the past with home networking is something I pay attention to now, spotty WiFi is a pain in the ass.
Keep up the good stuff!
Edit 2: edits remove hearts, now I look foolish lol
Lol rip your heart
We all learn this the heart way.
@@bland9876 yep haha
Has happened to me before
Really refreshing to see a non-Ubiquity network.
Don't get me wrong, they make great devices, but they're not the only show in town, and their not for everyone.
I've always preferred Netgear "blue box" gear - from before Ubiquity existed under that name.
Used to prefer 3Com, but they died 8-(
Also they got recently hacked right?
nice job! I actually run OM3 fiber in my living room and have it hooked up to a switch, all the devices in the TV cabinet is connected to the switch and have very reliable wire connection.
Nice, having switches in main areas definitely saves on the cabling
around 0:55 : Just a word of warning: attaching power cables to the bottom of floor joists may be in violation of the NEC. Your options to become code compliant are 1.) drill holes through the joists and feed them through there, 2.) put your cables through conduit, or 3.) put your cables on what the NEC calls running boards. Who cares? Maybe noone, maybe your homeowner's insurance company, maybe a building inspector for future electrical or possibly unrelated work. Can't say that I have experience with what happens when there are code violations, but insurance refusing to pay if your house burns down springs to mind as possible.
Agree, all house renovations or basement completions I have done I've fed the wires and plumbing through the joists. I think metal conduits though are acceptable, but not bare wire.
So... I actually spoke with two local electricians, and had this work permitted/inspected. If you run cables below joists either stapled to a solid wood board, or inside a physically-protected area (like the space between the I-beam and the HVAC ductwork), it is fine.
See 334.15 C ;)
@@JeffGeerling , thank you for the clarification. Just trying to make sure you're not in trouble. Obviously, I'm just another Joe Homeowner , not an electrician or building inspector. Was trying to be careful with words like "may" instead of "is".
@@DrRChandra Heh, I have some stories to tell about a (hopefully upcoming) solar project... I have had some great and annoyingly bad experiences with permits and inspections locally.
Tip for collecting dust when drilling walls. Tape an open envelope to the wall below the drilling area. The dust falls down the taped envelope flap into the open envelope. Very effective.
I design networks but I don't have the patience or dexterity to install them. Respect to those guys.
In my case, it's lots of drywall dust and cobwebs.
If you pull a wire and it's in an orientation that could pull the wire back down I'd suggest giving it an in wall attachment so when you unplug your access point your wire doesn't vanish into the basement.
I'd also leave a loop of maybe 1 meter just in case.
With cable pulling, it's worth pulling through two strings and leaving one in place. Tie off to the access point etc that you've pulled the cable to. Next time you cable pull in that location you can pull another string through.
For longer runs or wall jacks I usually do this-for this particular AP location, I don't see ever needing another run up there, so I left it. If I need to pull through that bay up into the attic, I'll have to fish down from the top plate regardless.
i find it really funny we over here in germany have really bad internet in the most places but in houses we lay cat 7 cables everywhere, i´m always amazed to see overseas you still use cat 5 or 6 instead of cat7 and cat 8 is also on the horizon
I just want to say the fact you don't just buy new things is really inspiring as someone who installed pihole on a pi 2 b I found I had from high school in the last month. Yeah now I'm ordering some pi zero 2 w's to share with friends and family if they want pihole, but that 2 b is mine and has a special place in my heart. That old hardware is running just fine and all new things and the latest and greatest isn't what home lab is about, it's about making your home (technology in particular) cozier... with you you have and without breaking the bank if you don't have something
For short runs like this sometimes it’s easier to use a smaller chain to feed down to where you tie off the string. I’ve done this a bunch of times when fishing drops from an attic into bedrooms.
I'm gonna wait for a OpenWrt supported cheap wifi6 AP.
Then I'll add a 2.5g switch. Wires are already cat6 in most important locations the others are cat5e.
But then I'll have to upgrade my router. Right now I'm running LCAP for lan side.
Where I live walls are made of bricks not easy to route new stuff!
Yikes! I'm glad I just have to deal with 2x4s and drywall. The worst install I worked on was in a school with every wall being one of those giant cinder blocks. We ended up running a few conduits down the main hallway, and luckily someone else was in charge of drilling the holes for mounting it and the hole through to each classroom.
Pulling some of those runs (a couple were 300' with a couple bends) was fun, though. Lots of cable snot.
@@JeffGeerling Fortunately, code regulations required since late 80s start of 90s separate power and telephone / data / TV conduits. (Here cables must be running in conduits)
For all the nerds out there I have a really huge comment explaining Italian code in a video called "what an UK electrician can learn from Italian wiring" from artisan electric. Anyway, when my father restored the house he brought the coaxial and the telephone to all the rooms. I have made up the space and now I have ethernet everywhere. For the analog phone system I use the empty pairs of rooms without a PC. (Backed is digital via VoIP and i have a PBX and an ATA)
@@tuttocrafting There are a few cities in the US where conduit is required for power, at least... but residential, it's usually not required for low-voltage wiring (especially in basements or crawlspaces, where wires are typically less likely to get interference from day-to-day occupants of the house...).
@@JeffGeerling funny, we call 230VAC low-voltage level mains here (: everything up to 1kV actually is low voltage.
I had a very different experience when I was looking into 10g or 2.5g: Price is basically the same (or close enough). This is especially true for switches, less so for network cards (but used is perfectly fine, often even better than new cause it's enterprise level gear).
I went for 10g on the main connections only (PCs, Servers), which is still spread over 2 floors so the cross-floor connection also needed 10g. But my entire investment in networking is still lower than the price of that 24 port 2.5g switch alone (~800 bucks). I did go for mostly used network cards, but cabling is all new/homemade as well. For switches, Mikrotik has some great and afforable options that I used. 24x1g, 2x10g, 175€ for the Rack/server side, and one of those 4x 10g for 120€ ones for the PCs (and upling, so >2 needed). 8 port 10g switches can be had for around 300€ I think, but they of course lack PoE (and being typically SFP+ they physically can't have PoE).
Short advice about dust collection when drilling into walls: take a vacuum cleaner (the stronger the better) and start vacuuming some 5 cm under the future hole. Either with no brush attached or with a narrow (10 cm wide) brush. It will catch more than 95% of the falling dust
Easier when you're not filming and you have someone else to hold the vacuum! But it is easier that way.
@@JeffGeerling Using a vacuum can be a bad idea for drywall dust because unless it has a HEPA filter, or is a whole house vacuum that vents outside, it will put some of that back out into the air. Drywall dust also chokes out vacuum filters quickly. For smaller holes, you just drill slowly so it doesn't get airborne and you can just put a Postit note on the wall, right below the hole, folded up to catch the fallout.
Well since 3.5 years ago my holes were almost exclusively in masonry. Not much of a workout even for my 12V non-impact drilling machine. Drywall is even easier. So holding the machine with one hand and the vacuum cleaner with the other was never too hard.
As for the vacuum's filters, I couldn't thank my wife more for wanting a Dyson! I've never seen such fine dust as the one the cyclone separator is able to extract. The filter after the saparator barely gets dirty.
This is not the first time I've heard anyone say that "for 10GbE I'd have to replace all of my Cat 5e cabling," which per the standards this may be accurate although not always true in practice. I purchased my home a few years ago (built 2005) and it was wired with Cat5e cabling to almost every room. I have a 10G distribution switch in the basement and recently added a 10G switch to the office, and you know what? the Cat5e cabling in the walls works at the 10G speeds. Granted the cable run is short between to the two, between 50-100 ft, but unless you're trying to run 10G speeds on really long Cat5e runs, you can probably reach or at least get close to 10G speeds on Cat5e, which I feel like is either just unknown or a misconception a lot of people share.
regardless, great video, love this channel.
This is true, and especially for short runs, it can work.
If you want to save on existing cabling it's worth a try; but I can't in good conscience recommend improperly-rated cable, or a thousand commenters would rain hellfire on my video for going against spec ;)
The main issue with 2.5G is the switches aren't actually any cheaper than 10G yet. For the price of that QNAP box, I could buy a full-10G switch from Mikrotik and just put PoE injectors on all my APs.
Probably because there's not much reason and demand for a 2.5G switch. Unlike the NICs.
@@arahman56 I'm not sure I follow you on there being no reason for a 2.5G switch, since that is the main thing you would connect 2.5G NICs to.
How much are 10g switches, from a refutable brand? I know on a smaller scale (4-6ports) I can get 2.5 managed switches for $50, is there a 10g switch similar price?
@@robertt9342 You are responding to a comment from two and a half years ago, when 2.5G switches were substantially more expensive than they are today.
I've had that switch in my amazon wishlist for a while. I have a few wifi6 APs (with 2.5 GB ports), so I don't tend to ever hit any of the limitations of my current 1GB poe switch. My POE switch (mikrotik crs318) does use a 10GB uplink to the rest of my 10GB network. Maybe one day if I get enough wifi6 devices, I will need to upgrade the switch. The QNAP seems to have the best price/port ratio for a 2.5GB switch and isn't overly huge size wise.
Ah, the good old days of 10base2 and Star Net ... back when Bill Gates (not really) said "640k ought to be enough".
Vampire taps Suck...Change my mind.
My first Ethernet experience was with 10base5 connecting VAX 11/780 computers. I also hand wired some Ethernet controllers on prototype boards for Data General Eclipse computers. My first LAN experience was in early 1978 on the Air Canada reservation system, which used time division multiplexing (TDM), instead of packets, over triaxial cable. It ran at a blazing 8 Mb/s with a slower 2 Mb network over coax.
or when the head of IBM said that "3 computers would be enough to serve the world"
Heads up with the QNAP switch, I had issues with one of their switches blocking multicast traffic, never was able to resolve it and QNAP support ignored every message I sent about it. Ended up switching to an old Brocade switch.
Haven't had that issue with the two QNAP switches I've used (both are pretty new though).
@@JeffGeerling It was the guardian smart edge switch (qgd-1602p) So its still on their line up. Maybe a software update has resolved it in the past year or so though.
I like the confidence, of crimping the cable. And just plugging it in without testing first.
We test in the real world. It only explodes things every once in a while. This *is* RSJ we're talking about.
you have a very nice home. I am very jealous of your basement, I have to use a closet for my network gear. I installed a wifi 6 AP recently as well. most excellent!
Always always have the antennae of your access point parallel to each other. The spacing between the antennae is not random and has been carefully designed to match the wavelength of 2.4 & 5Ghz frequency.
Redshirt Jeff has doesn't need safety goggles because he has superman-like laser eyes which zap any particles falling into his eyes. He is just too modest to talk about it.
Thanks for the video! The increase in bandwidth my not be noticeable now, but i'm hoping that by doing proper wiring with CAT6a now (There are no Ethernet anywhere in this house!) that the upgrade process later will be more drop-in, and less whole home renovation when Gig+ becomes commonplace. i'm a Bit wary of punching big holes in the wall, and seeing you immediately suggest such a nice plug made it all feel much more manageable. you're right of course, in the end looks matter, especially when you may need to put an AP on a kitchen wall... Loving each and every video! keep it up!
Thanks for a lot of great content Jeff. You are going to have a laugh about this when you look back in 10 years time or so - when it comes to IT nothing is ever enough. I had a college back in the mid 1980’ies about to buy a new hard drive - he asked us colleagues if the should buy a 80 MB or a 120 MB hard disk and we all shouted 120 (if you can afford it). His reply was: “But I’m never going to need all that space - no ever”
Oh I understand-the video's title is a reference back to a misattributed Bill Gates quote.
I already want 10 Gbps WiFi and 100 Gbps wired networking :P - budgets always take precedence though.
@@JeffGeerling be sure to check out Wi-Fi 7 IEEE 802.11be
@@RainFox84 I can't wait to see that appear in some reasonably-priced hardware. I'll be re-testing video editing over WiFi with it!
Awesome video. I've spent more time than I'd like to acknowledge tweaking my new UniFi U6-Pro AP. Channel width, channel, transmit power. End of the day, the best performance I have been able to get (in the same room as the AP) is 741 Mbps down and 380 Mbps up on openspeedtest. Ohh ya, I have Google Fiber (1 Gbps). I think that's darn close to real-world max of WiFi 6 for now. Client is MacBook Pro 16" M1 Max.
There are dedicated "low voltage" boxes (orange) which is basically a single gang box-shaped frame, so you can use a standard faceplate that takes... keystone jacks. There are keystone jacks that are basically back-to-back RJ45s. What I've done is left the keystone out and pluged the cable RJ45 into the device; when I got ready to sell the house, I put in a keystone jack and snap the cable into it so it looks finished.
Easy enough to do later-I can use a keyhole saw to slice in a new box location when the time comes.
"640K ought to be enough [ram] for anybody"
-Bill Gates, 1981
Beautiful 🤌
Wait, you have more than 640K?! Can you run Crysis then?! 🤣😇😉
I think he said 64k, not 640k...
When you don't double check your ref comment
@@vamwolf yeah I know he didn't really mean that and may not have said that, but the quote is a tech legend.
Great info on cable fishing. :) Congrats on the upgrades!
Tape an envelope to the wall, folding the corners so it acts as a pocket to catch the dust.. with the right tape you can pull and re-attach multiple times to do multiple holes.
I upgraded from WiFi 5 mesh to a single business grade WiFi 6 AP last year.
I'm only running GbE as I am not saturating that link and I only gave 105 Mbs Internet.
All devices are managed locally.
Can't wait long enough on a cheap (and actually affordable) Wifi 6E AP since our crappy Wifi5 Router from our ISP is dropping my connection *constantly* (To a Wifi6E PC and Wifi6E Phone on 5Ghz)
If your region is relatively quiet in the 5GHz band, you can grab a WiFi 6 AP and use 160MHz width to get 6GHz-like speeds on compatible devices
Great video and awesome production
“Anybody “ might want a SECOND 2.5G drop to prove that the first one is performing optimally. Especially Red shirt Jeff!
This is why I put in an in-wall Access Point in the Kitchen. A nice 802.11AC Ubiquiti with just a little protrusion compared to the phone jack that was there before. I went full Ubiquiti at move in and have been separated Router and Access Points ever since. I can even implement failover and choice routing with FiOS (no blocked server ports for VPN) and Comcast (required for Xfinity Roku app).
Also added Raspberrypi DNS and VPN server.
I'm surprised that QNAP is still being bought by home enthusiasts after their repeated backdoors and poor security practices.
Same and its more surprising that Jeff didn't know that
@@WhiteG60 Jeff hosts his website from a pi on his network. Its precarious to say the least.
Shortly after Synology had their share of problems. I know how to build a NAS but a switch?
@@VolkerHett Well, there’s OPNsense and similar, though you’ll need a lot of multiport NICs (and PCIe ports to put them) if you want a lot of ports. 8 ports should be doable, though.
@@keyboard_g just assign separate vlan for the hosted Pi's and isolate them from the main network using firewall... also, the site he hosting are running inside k8s, in a isolated k8s network with LB in front.
I used to think 200 was more than enough for anybody! Now I have 1 gig and I don’t know how I made do with only 200! The same thing will happen with two. 5 GB it’ll be great for about 10 years but it’ll get outdated as file sizes get bigger. I definitely think 2.5 gig will be enough to get us through to 2040 comfortably. Unless something revolutionary happens.
The Horrible Fright Tools sells a set of 10 39" straight fiberglass rods that screw together to fish wires through walls. These have worked excellent for me fishing wire up through straight wall cavities. I use them more than the reeled/rolled kind. they also sell nylon rolled which I also find easier to work with than metal. Both are inexpensive.
huh, I might need to grab one of those HF coupons for a free flashlight and check it out!
Painters tape a sandwich bag to catch the dust works great as well. High capacity.
Add a service loop next to your server somewhere. That way you will always have extra Cable. I used to do at least 3/4 of a loop the size of the server, usually like 4-6 feet. Nothing sucks more that a cable being 1 foot to short to fully open the back of the server
out? did you mean ought? :)
Or Aught?
The internal network of my house is 1gbps. For that I use a Wi-Fi router from a cable company that I found lying around. My three networks that I use as an ISP come from wifi routers as 100mbps clients, which connect to each other and the whole is connected to a gigabit card to an Ubuntu server running a virtual machine with pfSense. All armed with things I found lying around. I have redundant internet at home. I didn't spend a penny. I also don't pay a dime to connect to the Internet.
I have 1 fiber run in my house. I like how it produces less heat compared to sfp+ to rj45 adapters on my switch.
To collect dust when drilling into a wall, use a coffee filter bag and fix it to the wall with the painters tape !
I think the title is an intentional algorithm hack for the extra engagement...
Hehe, oops!
Quick tip for red Jeff, and anyone else reading: If you have a second person on hand, tell them hold up a vacuum/shop vac to the hole you’re drilling, the tape thing works great, but vacuum temds to work even better…
Any if you’re feeling fancy, 3d print an adapter to use a tripod instead of that second person to hold up the vacuum hose/tube
It would be nice, though most of my installs are done solo :(
It's a luxury when I get to work with my Dad on these projects, since I am traditionally 'vacuum guy'.
@@JeffGeerling That’s where the 3d printed adapter comes in 🥲
I would recommend looking into a mesh WX network. I switched from 1 giant AP to 3 Deco units and are amazed how well everything works.
Siempre cable si se puede.
Every time I watch his videos, I feel dumb. But since he explains everything clearly, it's like a small class I could take at school.
It must be difficult to do all the wiring and connections while recording it properly. I appreciate your effort!
Underrated comment. When I see these types of videos on larger channels, I'm always amazed at how smooth they can be-and they often show details better than I'm able to. Of course, if I could get a dedicated camera person that would help, especially with detail shots.
@@JeffGeerling Yeah, I remember during the school project days I have to make some presentation video on Arduino project and it was mighty difficult.
Video editing over the network starts at 10Gbe (well, 8Gbe but ehm you know...). A lot depends on bitrates, but not all of it. As you know better then I do, it also depends on the number of files and / or the size of them. One can also choose to become a proxy pro, but the advantages of proxies will soon need a rerate once cameras start at 8K. I hear one can gain some speed by using two servers. One for the clips and one for the database. Can't say if it's true. I only have one server. Poor me.
2:38 - pro tip, use post it notes. Just flip them up and they work great. :)
This is extremely timely. ISP provided me with a 2.5G-capable modem, so I’m looking at how I can cut out bottlenecks on my network.
It cuts lan-wan bottleneck but a 1/2.5/5/10gb switch would still make sense for your lan-lan traffic if you do things like file transfer over the lan
@@MichaelSmith-fg8xh that’s exactly how it ended up going
Yeah but the ISP is probably only provisioning half that bandwidth at most
Well I was thinking on upgrading to a 2.5G AP and Switch but I’m noticing that the speeds are pretty much the Same in my current setup, I have two HUAWEI ax3 APs with Ethernet backhaul.
A tip. When you have run the cables though the square cable thing and have crimped it into the metal connector then before you close the metal wings i like to recommend to put 1 strip of tape inside the metal wings across the cable ends that stick out.
In some cases it can short everything if the end of the wires touch the metal on the inside and then you get no signal.
I tried it a few times and it is just a pain in the x so now i always put a small strip of tape on top of the wires after i have cut them in length to avoid this issue. Els the rj45 metal connector that you can assembler your self is great.
I notised in the video that no copper band was wrabbed around the big cable.. Personaly i also dident do this my self since it fall off to easy and honestly i had 0 problems not using it.
DO NOT buy cat 8 cables they can do 40Gbps but you cannot afford to buy the equipment that can send data that fast though the cables.. just by cat 7 it is insanely fast anyway and i recall correctly and you wont as an ordinary person have any network that can do that kind of speed for at least 10-15 years anyway ;-)
go for the 2,5 and in the future when 10gbps become much cheaper then upgrade the ruter and switch.
( also honestly its properbly only your pc and nas server that can do 2,5 your tv and other devises run slower ).
In my country it’s safe to say 0.032gigabit is standard
And around the higher side around 0.32
Only 2.5 Gb? Yesterday, I found out my ISP will soon be offering symmetrical 8 Gb and later 10 Gb connections.
Why carefully remove the tape to avoid spilling the dust? Just use your vacuum cleaner (gotta keep those vacuums clean) to suck up the dust, before removing the tape.
I do not put plugs on solid cable. I put a keystone jack on and then use a short patch cord.
You don't have to turn down devices just to change switches. If you want to minimize interruption, try having both switches powered up and join them with 1 patch cable. Then move the cables, one at a time, from one switch to the other.
My network cables were installed by my ISP. When I got my first cable modem, they sent 2 guys to run the cable from one end of my condo, where the cable came in, to the other end, where my "office" is. I provided 2 runs of plain CAT5 (5e wasn't available then), to pull through with the coax. They fished through the walls, along side air ducts, over my closet and bathroom ceilings, across the laundry room ceiling, down behind the water heater and into the office closet. It took them 3 hours and they even patched the drywall where they cut it. The cables are only visible where they cross my laundry room ceiling. I then terminated the CAT5 cables with keystone jacks, mounted in wall plates in my living and bed rooms and in a box in the closet. I later ran another piece of CAT5 around 10 years ago, for my access point. My network now consists of a cable modem, providing a 500/20 connection, pfSense firewall/router running on a Qotom mini PC, Cisco 8 port switch and Unifi AC-Lite AP. I also labeled the Ethernet cables.
Been watching a few of your videos, then I saw the KC Flyover Camp shirt and realized who you were. Good stuff!
Love to see so much of Red Shirt Jeff.
I agree re network kit. I do prefer to be able to configure it locally via a browser, rather than using an "app" or cloud solution. A number of cloud solutions need a local controller to keep the settings if the power goes off, which is not very user friendly, and as has been seen recently, if the hardware provider closes their doors, so does the cloud, and all those cloud managed devices..
in the uk we still have upto 300mbps for 60-80 gdp or 78-104 usd a month
Future Jeff, regardless of shirt color, will thank you for the labeling.
Nice tape trick on the wall! Ever heard of a vaccum cleaner? I hold one of those under the holesaw with my other hand - works just as well :)
Run parsec on the laptop and connect to your editing workstation. Then the workstation can handle the large file transfers for editing while the only data the laptop deals with is the video stream. That should give you a decent experience for light editing away from the desk.
I've been considering this-also for remote editing like LTT was doing during the lockdowns. Hopefully I can get some time to test parsec and a couple other options soon.
You got me with the WiFi 6 Raspberry Pi AP. I defo want
Idk why but watching Jeff work is satisfying I wish I could have his knowledge
Here my 5 cents: I would prefere 8x10Gbit (for the 2-3 computers and the one AP that have 10Gbit) and keep the others on 1x1Gbit with the existing switch. That saves money...
I've done exactly that. I have a lot of stuff that's limited to 100/1000mbit anyway. Splitting it out also meant that I could use SFP+ (cheaper, less heat/energy) for the 10gb devices.
2.5 Gigabits ought to be enough for anybody
Laughs in 10gbe home networking :)
Love the videos Jeff! PS We need more Red Shirt Jeff!!!
Hey Jeff, why not use the WAX630E access point that includes the 6GHz spectrum? I just got it and it’s great
At the time I couldn't find one in stock (I actually ordered it a few months ago). Interested in hearing what kind of speeds you can get through it if you use a 6E device...
This was a fantastic guide / demonstration of residential cable pulling, appropriate equipment, and the considerations for getting this all set up, however, I *really* wish that 2.5gb networking would die a quick death. 10gb networking CAME FIRST and *should* be cheap and on EVERYTHING now (i mean... we started seeing this equipment in the early 2000's... it's 2022... if we simply demanded that 10g ethernet be on everything we currently have gigabit on now, it would be cheap and easy, instead of providing an intermediate standard that's only 1/4 the bandwidth for some reason.
2.5 Gigabits ought to be enough today. I've upgraded my home network to muilt-gig with devices between 1-10GB and my home server to it's backup server is a 40 GB link.
Hi, Jeff! You should do a video on what equipment you would use if you could start from scratch building your home network for 10GBs and 2.5GBs speeds and WiFi. Do it for both within budget and no holds barred super network. :) This would make a very interesting video!
Zyxel, (OEM for netgear AP's) got an AP that tops iperf3 at *1.3Gbps* on a 160Mhz channel, 5Ghz, Wifi6 (non E) . Model is NWA210AX, i had it from almost a year and knock on wood its rock solid! Also i use it to split my IOT WiFi into different VLANs since it supports transmitting multiple SSID's per radio (on either 2.4 and 5GHz) and each SSID can be set to a different VLAN! love business AP's waaaay more flexible than gamming WIFI routers.
planning on getting another one and to have 802.11kv roaming between them for my homes downstairs.
I remember when IBM came out with the PC, with the RAM hardwired on the motherboard, they actually said, "No one will ever need more than 64K of RAM"...
RAM, storage, and network have become "limitless" resources. One can never get "enough", and will always need/want more...
I think it's likely your runs are short enough that Cat5e could run 10gb. It's generally capable up to 30 meters despite the standards not requiring it. It'd be a good video to test your existing runs with your equipment and see what speeds you can get working.
Also if anyone wants to do this at home reterminating the ends using Cat6 jacks would dramatically improve your chances of getting it to work
Red Shirt Jeff needs a heat shrink labeller for the CAT cable. He'll never go back to Sharpies after that. Awesome video. Thanks!
Would love to do that, or those little zip tie thingies. But sharpies are just so darn convenient when you're only pulling one or two drops.
Hot tip from Red Shirt Rich: Use the removed blue shield to separate and straighten individual channel wires by sliding it up between its twisted pair and pinching while sliding it back off. Also, drink craft beer.
Red Shirt Jeff untwisted that 6A quite a lot before the actual terminations.
Planing on doing the same but waiting for the Ubiquiti Unifi U6-Enterprise Access Point as that will be Wi-Fi 6E
Yeah I pulled the trigger now... hoping my next upgrade might be to WiFi 7, whenever that starts showing up in consumer devices.
I always ran cable by dropping the string down the hole with a washer on it to weigh it down and gravity does the rest but that doesnt work on all wall types lol
That's a great option too, easier for straight drops. The fish tape is easier to flail around inside the wall cavity until you get lucky and snag it.
I saw your review for this switch on Amyzn. If only it wasn't 700$ I would buy it, that thing tics all my boxes! POE+ 2.5G, 10G uplink, managed switch! It would be *perfect* for my wired IP camera security system and wireless AP setup. Hoping the prices of these POE 2.5G switches come down soon!
Jeff could buy some TenFourOptics SFP modules and some Amazon LC fibre cables & go 10gig :) Good video man !! Love these !
I'll be adding more 10G and fiber someday-my goal is to build a new office / studio on the other side of the basement, and put in a full 42U rack (hopefully I can get it to fit!).
this is all well and good but really we are approaching advent of commodity 100g - you can get a 100g switch for less than 1000 - well worth it - red shirt will have to up his game a bit to keep up with the jones - look at the numbers - pay 2x for a switch and get 10x the bw - if only isp bw was making such big strides then we could all be happy - isp is the reason we can't have good things
I LOVE how easy it is to drill holes and run wires is in your part of the World :D
In my part of the World, its, brick, cement, (concrete and steel on occasion), but mostly brick and cement, we typically also don't have a "basement", but this is a fun watch anyway :D
Heh, that's when you run cables along walls and try to minimize work in the walls!
This Retro Jeff guy needs his own channel and in which he wears his signature flannel shirt.
It'd be nice to see a recommended setup that mixes 2.5Gbe and 1Gbe devices on the same network. I only have two PCs capable of 2.5Gbe, which might expand to 4 with a couple of APs. I have probably 10 other things (consoles, TVs, printers, cameras, etc) that are fine with a gigabit connection. It'd be nice to see a guide to a 'budget' 2.5Gbe upgrade that doesn't necessitate spending like $500 on a switch.
Some great tips here. Awesome job. As always.
My tip: instead of using V-shaped bits of tape to catch the dust, an envelope taped to the wall does a better job in my opinion
I only put in bottom screws as the top screws do very very little. That center screw setup is odd.
With my Unifi U6-LR AP I did an 800mbps speedtest with a 1gbps backplane to the PoE switch. I'm sure this AP must have a bit more jam in it. Maybe a pressure test with multiple devices at the same time or try the test with a device that has a better radio. Would be nice to see > 1gbps throughput!!
"Fiber runs through your hose probably isn't happening any time soon"
Might only be one run, but I just pulled a 30m om4 lc fiber , only though an exposed-joist ceiling in a basement (so far), to connect a pair of Intel x520-da2 nic's, one in my homelab/virtualization server, one in my primary desktop.
600MB/s smb3 (untuned and without multichannel setup) is pretty fun.
Eventually when rdma 10g or 25g nic's get affordable (for me), I'll migrate the x520's to other hosts (pulling some more fiber to connect them), and upgrade.
*house.
Please don't run fiber through your hose.
Heh, brb replacing all my PVC conduit with garden hoses...