Great job Mark , sorry you did not get it totally working but I know just getting it apart and back together is an accomplishment you can be proud of ,the rack and snail is a Bain to my existence!
Lots of things to say here. 1) the quarter-hour melody side is the CHIME, the hour single tone is STRIKE. So there is the CHIME side and the STRIKE side. The STRIKE side spring normally has an S stamped on it, but if you do not see it, you must mark it when disassembling. Getting the STRIKE side to work is usually pretty easy. The only adjustment is getting the gathering pallet to release the rack just before the warning pin is caught by the rack lever. The CHIME side is much different. When assembling, pay attention to the wheel with the cam and the warning wheel. The CHIME cam lever has two parts: one inside and one outside. The cam wheel and the warning wheel must be aligned so that the cam lever will drop into the cam slot when the warning pin is at 12 oclock. The cam lever will be adjusted after the clock is assembled. Once assembled, the auto-correct lever must be adjusted so that stays above the cam-wheel pin when the auto-correct is riding outside diameter of the auto-correct cam. When the auto-correct lever falls into the slot in the auto-correct cam (this cam sits behind and is mechanically linked to the CHIME locking plate), the cam-wheel pin should be stopped by the lever. This is adjustable and locked with a screw. If you do not do this setup correctly, and make the adjustments, the CHIME will never work correctly.
I have a Seth-Thomas clock that is very similar. You are very close on the chimes. Just slightly bend the hammer rods and move the hammers in or out in order to equalize the volume of the chimes.
@@mherzog7 Mark - I've seen videos and instructions on the little wheel with the pin that stops the Westminister chime. Keep up the good work and I'll bet you eventually learn more and figure it out.
@@mherzog7 Mark, I had a similar problem and finally figured it out. Maybe this will help --The count wheel looks ok. There are several possible causes for the problem you are experiencing. First, when the finger is deep in one of the count wheel slots it should be pointing directly at the center of the winding arbor. This part is often found to have been "messed with" but make it has actually been bent before correcting it. Now if it dose point to the center of the winding arbor but won't go in the slot, you may need to remove the third wheel (with the maintenance cam) and advance or retard it by one tooth. Now there is a big difference between the count finger not dropping into the slot and the count finger dropping into the slot and the strike train not stopping while the count wheel continues to turn until it jams. On the 4th wheel (gear) there should be a pin (the stop pin) and one of the levers (the stop lever) should arrest the stop pin and stop the strike train the moment the count finger drops into one of the deep slots. If this is not happening, you will need to let down both main springs and loosen the nuts holding the plates together and work out that 4th wheel and turn it so the stop pin will be in position to be arrested the moment the count finger drops.
Great job Mark , sorry you did not get it totally working but I know just getting it apart and back together is an accomplishment you can be proud of ,the rack and snail is a Bain to my existence!
Thanks, and yes, I still can't figure out how to get those parts working, even with following directions in a book or watching videos of it.
Thank you for the tutorial, Sir! This will be very useful to me when I begin tinkering with my Simsbury model. Warm regards
You are quite welcome!
Lots of things to say here. 1) the quarter-hour melody side is the CHIME, the hour single tone is STRIKE. So there is the CHIME side and the STRIKE side. The STRIKE side spring normally has an S stamped on it, but if you do not see it, you must mark it when disassembling. Getting the STRIKE side to work is usually pretty easy. The only adjustment is getting the gathering pallet to release the rack just before the warning pin is caught by the rack lever. The CHIME side is much different. When assembling, pay attention to the wheel with the cam and the warning wheel. The CHIME cam lever has two parts: one inside and one outside. The cam wheel and the warning wheel must be aligned so that the cam lever will drop into the cam slot when the warning pin is at 12 oclock. The cam lever will be adjusted after the clock is assembled. Once assembled, the auto-correct lever must be adjusted so that stays above the cam-wheel pin when the auto-correct is riding outside diameter of the auto-correct cam. When the auto-correct lever falls into the slot in the auto-correct cam (this cam sits behind and is mechanically linked to the CHIME locking plate), the cam-wheel pin should be stopped by the lever. This is adjustable and locked with a screw. If you do not do this setup correctly, and make the adjustments, the CHIME will never work correctly.
Thank you for this.
How do you even know how to repair all these clocks? It’s actually amazing. Great job
Thanks. I started with one. Learn something new with every clock.
Вітаю,ви є гарний вчитель 😊
Thank you.
Love these
Well done sir, it must be time consuming. How many hours do you put into this particular clock?. Great job. Adrian
Thanks, I don't keep track but yes, a lot of hours.
I have a Seth-Thomas clock that is very similar. You are very close on the chimes. Just slightly bend the hammer rods and move the hammers in or out in order to equalize the volume of the chimes.
Thanks, but the problem is that other than the hourly chime, the Westminster chime kept going.
@@mherzog7 Mark - I've seen videos and instructions on the little wheel with the pin that stops the Westminister chime. Keep up the good work and I'll bet you eventually learn more and figure it out.
Thanks, I’m working on one now that I was able to get to chime properly, it’s a learning curve, for sure.
@@mherzog7 Mark, I had a similar problem and finally figured it out. Maybe this will help --The count wheel looks ok. There are several possible causes for the problem you are experiencing. First, when the finger is deep in one of the count wheel slots it should be pointing directly at the center of the winding arbor. This part is often found to have been "messed with" but make it has actually been bent before correcting it. Now if it dose point to the center of the winding arbor but won't go in the slot, you may need to remove the third wheel (with the maintenance cam) and advance or retard it by one tooth.
Now there is a big difference between the count finger not dropping into the slot and the count finger dropping into the slot and the strike train not stopping while the count wheel continues to turn until it jams. On the 4th wheel (gear) there should be a pin (the stop pin) and one of the levers (the stop lever) should arrest the stop pin and stop the strike train the moment the count finger drops into one of the deep slots. If this is not happening, you will need to let down both main springs and loosen the nuts holding the plates together and work out that 4th wheel and turn it so the stop pin will be in position to be arrested the moment the count finger drops.
@@jimprice1959 Jim, thanks for the info.
Whats one worth that works
I’ve seen them on eBay for as much as $130
Great job maybe someone watching can help with the chimes.
Thanks
This has a m4 motor
😻 Promo SM
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