Oh yes, on entry to harbour at Bluffers Park Yacht Club in Scarborough Ont. Rocks on both sides, following sea. Ended up using just jib to get to dock. Let's say it was memorable (this was in 1980's)
yes, just left Cardiff Barrage and engine overheat alarm came on as a hose had come loose. Luckily no wind so lowered my tender outboard on its bracket and it got me back at 1 knot to do the repair. Second time was off Hartland Point in the Bristol Channel. Luckily I had wind so sailed way off the shore to repair. It was air in the system. Probably telling you something you already know but just in case, try to keep your tank full so there is limited air in it. This helps with diesel bug. Good luck with the engine, gutted for you.
if your head gasket has failed and is leaking coolant into the cylinders, it could cause it to 'hydrolock' when starting, meaning uncompressible water is being pushed on by the cylinders in the closed combustion chamber and is straining the piston-rod assembly. If only a little coolant is present, and the quantity is dependent on the size of the leak and the amount of time the engine is sitting off, it will either just blow white smoke out the exhaust once started, or worse, be hard to start, as the liquid water is opposing the starter, but eventually start, or worst case, so much water is in a cylinder it block the starter from turning and moving the piston, breaking something in the process... The shorter the engine sits off, the smaller the amount of coolant that can leak into the combustion chamber... Letting the engine run is optimal, as any coolant is constantly burned off and ejected with the exhaust harmlessly. Every restart, especially after hours of sitting off, is straining the assembly... Therefore once started, leave the engine running for as long as possible, its the safest state. Every restart is a chance for damage...
We sailed into Nassau Harbor (west entrance) in twenty five knot winds once, and cranked the engine just outside the harbor entrance and had it die right as we came in. We were weaving in and out of the anchored boats near the cruise ships trying not to hit anybody and find a spot to anchor. We finally did, and of course we immediately started dragging. We couldn't get the engine started, got the anchor up, sailed away from hitting the sea wall by ten feet, sailed past the cruise ships, narrowly missing their dock, up to the outer pier of the old Hurricane Hole marina and lassoed a piling on their outside docks. as we drifted by. Mind you, this is all at ten O'clock at night! The problem turned out to be a piece of diesel bug that looked like the seed pod of Johnson grass. It had got caught in a 90 turn in the fuel line, before the Racor fuel filter.
Always check the negative ground to the engine. I have found when a boat motor starter is dragging, that is frequently where the voltage resistance will be. You forget about the battery negative connection to the engine, but it will get corroded over time. But, it sounds like you had some air in there or a clog.
Put voltmeter across battery terminals, crank engine record battery voltage while cranking should be better than 12.5v. Now put voltmeter from battery + to engine ,crank again if voltage drops by more than 0.5v you have an issue with the starting circuit,or the starter motor is on the way out. Don't take the head off without doing a pressure test first.
The engine if installed correctly should be Insulated Return !! The starter , alternator and ALL sensors SHOULD not return through the engine ! If its using the engine as an earth then it will cause electrolisis ! The way thats trying to crank sounds like a lazy starter / bad earth. Easiest way to tell is after trying to crank feel the 2 wires from the batt . If one is warm/hot thats where the fault is .
The engine is not starting due to the slow cranking. Check and clean all the connections . Don't forget that isolator switches and solenoids can go bad. Does the engine start better when it's warm ?If not there could be air in the diesel system. Bleed the system all the way from the lift pump through to the injectors.
as a mechanic / marine mechanic..by the way its slowly cranking over. its possible. You have power but your not getting enough current....disconnect the battery's first , then find where the ground wires connect to your engine and any connections along the grounding cable... wire brush them all clean , as well as the point where the ground connects to the engine... dress the connections with di-electric grease to prevent future corrosion.
I hadn't read this and other comments before I posted about cleaning the battery posts and cable terminals then coating them with dielectric grease. Doh!
Be sure the check valve on the exhaust hose is working. It is possible to get seawater siphoning back into the exhaust and into the cylinders causing a hydro-lock which will mimic a bad starter/battery.
Whilst you may have a fuel issue, that isn’t what’s stopping your engine starting. It’s not a case of not starting per se, it’s not turning over. The batteries are fine as you’ve tested. My money would be on a bad/loose/corroded contact inc ground. Or bad solenoid/ starter motor. Once the motor is turning and not starting then you can look at air/fuel - nearly always the latter. It’s seems, however, your filters are doing the job as it runs fine once started which it wouldn’t do if there was a fuel issue.
Logically you have tested your batteries and they are ok. After you crank for a while you overcome the cranking resistance of your engine and start and run ok. If your engine has resistance to turning over and then starting, it would seem to indicate a head gasket issue. If after you've got it going and cleared it after about 30 seconds, turn it off and wait 10 seconds and try to restart, making sure that water is not pissing into your inlet manifold. If your engine tries to lock, dont try any more to star until you figure out whats locking it. When your engine is running check by removing radiator cap WHILST ENGINE COLD and check for smelly smoky air bubbles in radiator. rev it a bit, not much and look for these bubbles. If coolant level is down, top up so you can see water in top of filler neck. This will make it easier to see bubbles, if they manifest. Put in gear and either strain against the anchor to place load on the engine or steam under one third power and look for bubbles. Leave radiator cap off and let engine cool to ambient over 4 hours and try to start. Check for water in your inlet before doing so as you don't want to suck water in and fornicate your engine. If there are no bubbles in your engine coolant and its still tryin to hydrolock then water is leaking into inlet from somewhere. If there are bubbles and engine will not try to lock with radiator cap off, most likely head gasket. Otherwise, call Captain Ron. Whatever, you need a Mechanic.
@@hawkman302 clamp test starter current with a DC Ammeter on the starter cable but fault is indicative of early hydrolock caused by water ingress into the cylinders.
@@MrCA610 because that's indicative of a leaky head gasket. Once it has started will turn over freely until water ingestion after sitting switched off and pressure seeps water into cylinders.
It is great that your fuel filter caught the issue, but I also think your engine is not cranking as it should, which should be freely and quite quickly. I suggest you check all engine earth connections and starter connections: it is free to do and will at least assure you that they are OK. In a saline environment, I would protect all of these connections with dielectric grease. Next suspect, given you believe the battery to be OK, is the starter motor. You should carry a spare in any event. If you have one, swap it out when time suits to confirm /eliminate. Something isn't right, in any event.
I highly recommend a primary filter with a clear inspection bowl and heat deflector at the bottom, such as a Racor MA500. Add a drain valve with threads for a plug, and a vacuum gauge between the primary filter assembly and the engine. As the filter element collects contaminants it restricts fuel flow, which a vacuum gauge immediately indicates. I also think you have a weak starter or a wiring connection issue between the battery and the starter.
Supermodel on a sailboat, Lucky husband is living the dream, You two have great adventures, thanks for taking us along, seeing places we would never see.
It sounds to me like the starter motor. it running rough was the fuel, but that wouldn't stop it turning over. I'm sure its the starter. try the connections on the motor itself, if that doesn't work get it off and get it checked , I don't think its the head gasket or you would have water in the oil which makes it go milky. good luck.
Yes, sounds like bad a connection on isolator switch or on starter, bad earth or the starter itself. You also need to polish the fuel as when in heavy seas it will get churned up and enter the intake once again.
Clean all the battery cable connections, both negative and positive, including the connections on the engine. Connect your voltmeter to the batteries & crank the engine, noting the amount of voltage drop. Then connect the voltmeter to the starter positive terminal and the engine ground terminal, testing the voltage drop again. If there is a significant difference, then bypass the battery switch (which is ancient) by connecting the two lugs on the same terminal on the back of the switch. If this solves the problem, then the old switch is the issue. If the batteries are good, all the connections are clean and it still won't turn over properly, then look at the starter. It's possible to disassemble the starter yourself to inspect the armature and brushes. The armature should be bright and clean. Do not use sandpaper unless it's a very fine grit. A Scotchbrite pad would be better. Your starting issue isn't "air" or fuel... you aren't getting enough power to the starter or the starter itself is worn. Start with cleaning ALL the connections and don't assume the battery switch is OK, it's very old. You can also bypass all the cabling with jumper cables or spare battery cable. I can't speak about possible hydro-locking... not my field, although I do know that you shouldn't crank the engine significantly unless you close the cooling intake. If the engine doesn't start, the impeller can fill up the exhaust with cooling water which can then backlog into the engine.
The starting problem could be a corroded selenoid contacts. You may already know this but a starting selenoid is a type of relay with very high current contacts. When engaged the contacts come together with a good degree of force. Corroded internal contacts exhibit much the same symptoms as corroded battery terminal or corrosion on the external selenoid connection. There are two ways to troubleshoot: 1. Click the start key on and off several times quickly to see if you can knock some of the corrosion loose. Then it may start easily, 2. Bypass the selenoid contacts using a screwdriver or a wrench across the terminals. If either of those things work then that is the problem. I hope that is helpful. Of course it could also be just the battery internal resistance is high (failing battery) or corroded batt contacts or battery cables with bad or corroded contacts (the most obvious problems). I really enjoy your videos.
It’s not always plain sailing as they say. Well done for showing that it isn’t all blue seas and golden sands. The engine failing would certainly freak me out. Here’s hoping that you’ve got things sorted with the engine and you can thoroughly get back to relaxing in the beautiful scenery.
Engine sounds fine x Solanoid/starter motor or the earth for the engine x A good addition for your first aid kit is iodine (for sterilisation) and a stitches kit I used to teach my chaps to do stitches using oranges 🍊 Ie slice it and close the cut again practicing stitches x The quicker you can sterilise the wound and stitch So its closed to the outside world and sources of infection x Invaluable addition to your skills x Its not hard really x Still missing wedding invite 😂
I know that this was a while back but I've just seen the video and your problem sound like a bad earth connection somewhere. Having just retired from 40 years afloat I can assure you that you will never run out of new problems to solve, good luck 😁
I think you maybe getting sea water coming back up the exhaust , have you made any changes to the anti syphon. Sounds to me if the engine is clearing out the water on the first attempts to start and then gets going. Have a look at the vent on the top of the antisyphon to make sure it has not become blocked by something
Hi, thanks for your video's, I really like them! I have had contaminated fuel in my boat and even though I have added all kinds of fuel cleaners the bacteria residu kept coming back and clotted the fuel system at times the engine was really needed... Once the fuels is contaminated the only thing that works is to totally empty your tank(s). Clean the inside and avoid dirty fuels and water entering your tanks. Filters only avoid the residu to enter your engine, but will be keep getting clotted when you don't clean your tanks.
Check the starter motor and the grounds to it and to the battery. Your Battery isolator could be the sorce of poor connections...bypass it to test starting ...
I’m sure there are lots of opinions about your Engine, here are mine. If a head gasket has failed you will normally have the pressurisation of the cooling system with coolant being blown out of the header tank and a drop in level of coolant. You may also get lots of white smoke coming from the exhaust. By the sound I’m hearing it sounds like the engine is cranking slowly, hence difficulty in starting. Also allow time for the heater plugs to do their Job. I think you may have a volt drop on starting. This means you’re not getting full battery power at the Starter Motor. Engines working in a salty damp environment often suffer with this problem. Disconnect all of your terminals Earths and Starter motor and give them a sanding and clean check battery and engine earths as well . Hopefully this should help, once done check voltage on battery post, battery terminals, and started motor to ensure your not getting a voltage drop between the battery and starter motor. Then check the voltage on cranking on the Battery and starter motor. I would be looking at 1 to 2 volt drop max on cranking the starter motor.
Hi, I doubt its the head gasket! You don't get full power shorely because the engine is still restricted of diesel as you have a diesel bug problem, you also have to clear the hose from the tank to the racor filter you just cleaned. And then, disconnect the diesel same hose at the tank and shove a long screwdriver or something to clear it and make shore diesel flows. You should get the tank opened as soon as you can and mope it all out and finally whipe it with a rag with gasoline which aparently kills the bug. Its hapend to me too. Have the anchor ready ... A tip if its a week battery. Cover the engines air intake with your flat palm ( small engine like that) or somthing else but must seal well. Somebody else starts the engine and as it does not suke air, the engine will spin fast as no compression. Then take take hand off kwikly. I've done that many times. Great videos, first time I see you guys.
So glad I stumbled on this channel ! Lovely couple - cool boat - real life adventure ❤ I love that song you had playing “… little sad eyes , don’t you know ..” I can’t find it with those lyrics Great editing and music ! Thank you 🙏
I dealt with an engine before that had disconnects on it. The batts were good. The started was good. We just couldn’t get enough current across the disconnect to make the starter quit dragging. Fixed it by using a larger disconnect.
Hmmmm. @3:20 That seems like a compression issue. Either water or fuel is leaking into the cylinders after the engine is shut off. Both will hydro-lock the cylinder while starting and will only go away after the piston is forced past the top of its cycle and the liquid is shot out into the exhaust. That explains why it turns over for a second and then halts. It also explains why trying a second or third time results in a running engine.
There was a period of time when high-voltage charging and starting cables were made with an aluminum core rather than the copper core we have all come to know and love. It was thought that aluminum wouldn't corrode the way copper does. Unfortunately, they were wrong. The problem is, when the aluminum breaks down, it turns to a white power that might as well be made of wood. The power you need just doesn't get to where you want it and, you rarely notice where the problem is. ( They even did it on some small aircraft. ) Check to be sure that none of your high-tension cables are aluminum and, if they are, replace them.
When it is windy like that at anchor or on a mooring run the mizzen up and the breeze will keep you down wind of the hook. Also it makes it a bit more comfortable inside.
Agree with those who have left comments about your battery connections. You have diesel bug as well. But the slow turning starter motor is not caused by fuel gunk. Check cable connections and deal with voltage drops … it’ll probably be that simple. It might be water (as your pal suggests), but the engine runs well once started. If you can access the top of your tanks, rig a simple 12 volt pump, a Jerry can or two and a couple of pipes … and you’ll have a diesel polishing system that can be kept onboard and used regularly.
When you first started having engine trouble before you crossed the Panama canal I was wondering if you would really try to cross the Pacific Ocean without an engine you could count on. So glad to see you are getting it fixed before you try. Better to be safe and enjoy the trip than to worry about it.
Check earthing strap as this seems to be the problem. Also, only be head gasket if you have water in the oil. Take oil cap off and check for a milky residue around the top and cap, if it's black, colour of oil, then its not the gasket.
It is not head gasket, that would over pressurize the coolant system when running. Check your exhaust for unburnt fuel or excessive smoking when first starting= leaky fuel injector. If thats all good then starter, battery switch or cables. Test the cables and switch with the battery tester. As you check down the line- away from the battery, you will get a slight drop in the CCA of the battery. Very obvious if a cable or connection is bad cuz your CCA will dive into the toilet.
yes this above is good advice, also dont just pull the head off but use a special pressure gauge to measure cylinder pressure. this will let you know the pressure for each cylinder and also you will know the state of the engine, if piston rings are getting worn etc.
always carry plenty os sterile eye pods (saline) great for flushing wounds , oh and the person who suggested super glue ! yes it works in a pinch , steri strips / wound closures good to , in an emergency gaffer tape , (really) , as a retired medic I've seen most lol clean and close , keep an eye on it ! sending love Darren.
Revert to the basics: The contacts on your battery were dirty. You might try cleaning the battery cable to starter connection. Also make sure that your ground(earth) connections to the engine and the battery negative are good.
Before putting the cables back on the battery terminals, spray it all with Corrosion Guard (by Waterguard USA) or Corrosion-X. This helps keep the green fuzzies away and everything working better longer. Also spritz down the fuse box and other connectors. I spent 37 years working offshore and this stuff is a life saver.
Good luck with your engine. As others have said, start with all the heavy cables and look for loose or corroded connections. Negative side too. One way to find a bad connection is after attempting to crank for a few times, stop cranking and feel each joint for heat or warmth. Do this carefully so as not to get a burn. If you do find a warm or hot connection, undo it, clean up like a new pin and reconnect checking its tight. Grease or Vaseline around such joints will help keep the corrosion at bay. A spare known good starter motor on a boat is a must really. Sealed in a bag or cling film. Also check the heavy battery leads for any bulges that could be corrosion nodules. One other thing that could stop it cranking over fast enough is, as your friend said, head gasket letting a little cooling water into the cylinders. This can be indicated by removing the glow plugs if they will come out, then cranking the engine over to see if any liquid (coolant) is squirted out. It’s good practice to periodically remove them when in a marina to make sure you can get them out and they aren’t seized in. As you have done, start with the easy things first but if it’s having trouble cranking, battery, connections, cables, starter, something putting load on the engine. You said you changed the impeller, could this have somehow got mangled. Might be worth a check. Also if it was bad then did the engine overheat causing head gasket issues and a little water in the cylinders? First of your videos I’ve seen. I’ll be watching to see how you get on.
That sounds electrical - Check battery connections - fuel would not stop the engine turning over. Possible Starter ? last issue could be massive increase in compression - i.e. water in cylinder chamber
I had an old tracker doing the same thing. it was very hard to find the starter, so off it came. What I found after splitting the case was very corroded brushes. after I got them hot trying to start it, the starter would work. After a good cleaning the starter worked fine.
Common as rain, contaminated fuel. I'd check the starter, your batteries looked good but it sounds like a bare spot on the starter. Superior editing, sound and cinematography. Your fast becoming our #1 sailing channel, loved how each sequence blended so nicely throughout. Your efforts are really paying off. Best with your cut Becka's foot, do you carry tetanus syringe aboard? Praying for a safe passage and that engine problem is not major.
One tip that could be of use to you guys is, electrical contact grease ! I had trouble with some connections with water ingress on plug connections with the o rings not sealing. After doing that and on other connectors including my on board battery bank, no more problems or corrosion ! Cheers from New Zealand
Lovely. Fingers crossed on the bug. We had it and it was everywhere in the fuel line. I hope the fire pits were provided. Nothing worse than leaving fire mess on a white beach.
You guys kept a cool head and didnt freak out, good job. I can honestly say i would be pretty freaked out being in such a remote place without an engine. Props to you guys, i hope everything works out. Cant wait for the next episode. Safe travels.
If it’s not a computer controlled motor, use jumpers direct to the starter motor. You can see the extreme voltage drop at the instrument cluster when you are trying to start. Feel the 2/0 cables both positive and negative after a start attempt, looking for heat buildup which would indicate a bad cable or connection. Physically work the cables feeling for a hard point / internal corrosion both positive and negative. If all that produces no results remove the starter and overhaul / inspect it. Finally if all that fails turn the motor using a socket feeling for any binding/ do not confuse the normal compression. You can remove the injectors for that test if you want. Ensure the exhaust smoke if running is normal.
Wow I really look forward to Mondays because your next brilliant video is ready for me to watch, I have a good feeling you guys will sort the engine problem out, love you guys ⛵️⛵️👍👍
You should also check the furl tank ,I would drain it or if u can shine a torch in the tank and see if u have any rubbish ,even if u sifen some out with a piece ov hose make sure the hose hits the bottom ov the tank
Great video Guy’s, beautifully Edited. Becca really hope your foot is healing looked a nasty cut. Engine look for a funky oil filler cap if water is getting into the oil it looks like Mayonnaise. Bad head gasket doesn’t make starting hard just loss of power for a boat white smoke. I would go through electrical first check Negative grounds are on clean surfaces, starter and Battery terminals. Give surfaces some coarse sand paper. Hope gets sorted cheaply. All the very best to you both from us in the Southwest 🇬🇧Take care
@@TeuluTribe Really pleased your all healed we love seeing your Travels and can’t wait to see all the fantastic places you’re going to visit. Brother Owns a large Garage in the Bay & Sons a Vehicle Technician in the same place so unfortunately I learned an awful Lot over the years, all my boats have had big outboards but our T5 is Diesel.
Your engine is hydrolocked. This is why it is getting better the more you try to start it. Check your exhaust elbow for leakage of water into the engine. If the exhaust water can not pass to the outside because the elbow is plugged it returns to the engine. Very important you check this. It could easily blow up your motor. Good luck guys.
A useful benchmark is to check the voltage right on the battery posts (not the cables) while you are cranking. Voltage above 9.5 points to trouble away from the battery.
If you have a mechanical fuel pump, it's pretty dependent on the engine to turn at a certain speed to supply fuel to the engine. And the battery has to be strong enough to turn it fast enough for that to happen until it starts running on it's own. And it's not just the battery lugs that need to be shiny, the terminals / connectors attached to them and the cables connected to them all need to be clean and corrosion free. With the slowness that you have the engine cranking on video, disassemble and clean everything between the battery and the starter, both positive and negative.
We had a Volvo diesel stop functioning on a 64' Show. Water in the diesel was the reason, probably included with the diesel when we filled her up in the meditaranean. Result was a complete engine change....
If there's water in the cylinders due to leaking head gasket, the exhaust sould smoke White and smel a bit sweet. The danger of water on top of the piston is hydro lock. You could bend a conrod or a valve....
Check your coolant. If you are regularly topping up the heat exchanger/header tank when there are no visible leaks then the chances are the cylinder head gasket is leaking. It could also be a cracked head. Did you have an overheating incident?. The uneven cranking indicates coolant causing an hydraulic lock in one or more cylinders. Is there bubbles/excess pressure in the cooling system when running? The condition will only get worse, so best to head for a location where service and parts are available. In the meantime try relieving the pressure in the the cooling system when engine is stopped to prevent coolant filling the combustion chambers. Stay safe, best of luck.
Put some grease on electrical connections - it protects from moisture and air so they wont rust. You can put grease on pretty much anything, really. On nuts and bolts for example. A simple trick that works wonders. There are special products available, but normal mechanical grease works fine, too.
Hi, England calling, having been involved with Boats for over 40yrs, can I suggest the following; Change Fuel filters (ALL), and have the Starter motor checked out. I'd also have the fuel tanks checked for Water & finally Keep going
Be sure your battery cables are atleast 2/0 cables to the starter, both the minus and the plus cable all the way to the battery and check the terminals and be sure the all fittings are tight including those on the starter.
After checking connections check the starter motor for heat, this will show it needs servicing or replacing. It can get stuck on and start a fire so be careful. The engine sounds good, if it was air issues it would run hot or bad idling etc.
Sounds like you need a demulsifier to separate the water and keep it in the primary filter water trap. It can then be drained regularly. Howes makes a really good product and it is inexpensive. Whatever you use, use the higher amount per gallon that is recommended initially. Make sure to keep using the best diesel bug additive that you can find even after you think the issue is over. With closed tanks, it is worth the cost.
Feel the starter cable see if its hot? Look for a white/green powdery coating. Clean it off then tighten the cable to the starter so it has good contact. Seems the reason it turns over slowly is corrosion on terminal. Check air filter intake too then fuel sediment bowl for any water or contaminated fuel. Good fuel should be clear with no cloudiness. Try bleeding the fuel if air is in the line.
If you keep cranking the engine and it does not start you will have water backing up into the exhaust. So shut of the water intake and if it start you can open the water intake again.
That was really scary- I felt for you both! When the engine is finicky it gets scary. Glad it started and hoping it is fixed well soon for you. In my thoughts ❤
Drifting towards a jagged shoal in a storm while being far from home is my definition of an "inopportune moment". Clean electrical connections is "low hanging fruit" and should be done while in a safe harbor before departing. I don't sail but I do motor in the 30,000 Islands (60,000 hazards) so having a "kicker motor" is a must. It sure takes the stress off my mind allowing me to focus on the hazards ahead. A friend of mine had mounted a 10hp Honda on his 38ft sailboat and we used it to power us back from Giants Tomb Island to Penetanguishine Ontario. Learning how to use old school charts and magnetic compass is also a good idea.
That looks like black algae, it is growing in your tank. I had an issue with my motorhome’s tank. Had to have a guy clean it, which they do on boats. None of the treatments I used got rid of it!! Many spare filters and change often. Best of luck
First, thank you for all the work it took to make a video this long. It turned out I was tough enough to look at the cut on your foot Becka, but thanks for the warning. I hope it heals quickly. Fingers are crossed about the engine. More will be revealed. I love the joy I see on your guys faces when you discover new places or things. I love the journey. Thanks again. Stay safe ❤🙏
Either the starter motor or the battery switch. Clogged filters dont help mind. Good luck fixing it. Definitely electrical, maybe corroded earth somewhere
It is clear that you have an electrical problem. Likely a bad connection. The fuel issue was a problem yet to come, so it was good to change the filter.
I am not convinced it is the head gasket! Normally when they go that is it on a diesel, simply won't start. I had that on my previous yacht. The slow cranking in the beginning points to an electrical/starter/solenoid issue. Good luck! Love your videos!
Theres a chap out there living on a boat he collects sea glass and makes art work and jewelry ... that he sells to part finance his boating life. Its harder to find these days since plastic bottles took over... Loved the macro photography on the beach. .. You will get trees dropping leaves seasonally, or due to a dry season.... Or due to drought.. remember the state of the Canal is a regional/global phenomina With El ninio and el ninia both originating off the coast of Peru.
My boat sat for 6 years full of fuel. It had no moisture whatsoever but a bad case of microbes. We treated the fuel for microbes but they die and turn into that black stuff that plugs everything up. I had to pump out the fuel (50 gallons) and polished and stored it in Jerry cans. All my friends loaned me some. Then I cut holes through each baffle space and took a paint scraper and cleaned them out yuck. I smelled like diesel for 3 days. So when 8 boats from our club went on a blue water cruise/sail, 5 out of the 8 boats had the milkshake blues when it got rough. E were fine
Sounds like electrical problem check connections from battery to your starter, check earth strap to your engine, it could be starter motor often the brushes worn not sure how to test starter but it would be my guess fact you get full cranking intermittently, i dont think it head gasket as once it starts you would see exhuast color or suffer overheating good luck on fixing
When things go wrong it is blowing a gale at night big sea strong wind. You where very lucky you had spares remember get more and a few extra. Plus use a filter to fill up it will take chunks out. I use a old pair of tights.
Not having a working engine...far from ideal...have you ever had an engine let you down at the most inopportune moment? 🛠⚙
Oh yes, on entry to harbour at Bluffers Park Yacht Club in Scarborough Ont. Rocks on both sides, following sea. Ended up using just jib to get to dock. Let's say it was memorable (this was in 1980's)
yes, just left Cardiff Barrage and engine overheat alarm came on as a hose had come loose. Luckily no wind so lowered my tender outboard on its bracket and it got me back at 1 knot to do the repair. Second time was off Hartland Point in the Bristol Channel. Luckily I had wind so sailed way off the shore to repair. It was air in the system. Probably telling you something you already know but just in case, try to keep your tank full so there is limited air in it. This helps with diesel bug. Good luck with the engine, gutted for you.
if your head gasket has failed and is leaking coolant into the cylinders, it could cause it to 'hydrolock' when starting, meaning uncompressible water is being pushed on by the cylinders in the closed combustion chamber and is straining the piston-rod assembly. If only a little coolant is present, and the quantity is dependent on the size of the leak and the amount of time the engine is sitting off, it will either just blow white smoke out the exhaust once started, or worse, be hard to start, as the liquid water is opposing the starter, but eventually start, or worst case, so much water is in a cylinder it block the starter from turning and moving the piston, breaking something in the process... The shorter the engine sits off, the smaller the amount of coolant that can leak into the combustion chamber... Letting the engine run is optimal, as any coolant is constantly burned off and ejected with the exhaust harmlessly. Every restart, especially after hours of sitting off, is straining the assembly... Therefore once started, leave the engine running for as long as possible, its the safest state. Every restart is a chance for damage...
We sailed into Nassau Harbor (west entrance) in twenty five knot winds once, and cranked the engine just outside the harbor entrance and had it die right as we came in. We were weaving in and out of the anchored boats near the cruise ships trying not to hit anybody and find a spot to anchor. We finally did, and of course we immediately started dragging. We couldn't get the engine started, got the anchor up, sailed away from hitting the sea wall by ten feet, sailed past the cruise ships, narrowly missing their dock, up to the outer pier of the old Hurricane Hole marina and lassoed a piling on their outside docks. as we drifted by. Mind you, this is all at ten O'clock at night! The problem turned out to be a piece of diesel bug that looked like the seed pod of Johnson grass. It had got caught in a 90 turn in the fuel line, before the Racor fuel filter.
Engines almost always decide to quit at the most inopportune time! Have to count on that and be ready!
Always check the negative ground to the engine. I have found when a boat motor starter is dragging, that is frequently where the voltage resistance will be. You forget about the battery negative connection to the engine, but it will get corroded over time. But, it sounds like you had some air in there or a clog.
The ground connection is often overlooked by even experienced technicians. It is a sneaky one for sure.
Put voltmeter across battery terminals, crank engine record battery voltage while cranking should be better than 12.5v. Now put voltmeter from battery + to engine ,crank again if voltage drops by more than 0.5v you have an issue with the starting circuit,or the starter motor is on the way out. Don't take the head off without doing a pressure test first.
Check all connections, then the starter solenoid. The big washer inside can go bad and make a poor connection giving the slow crake we are hearing.
The engine if installed correctly should be Insulated Return !! The starter , alternator and ALL sensors SHOULD not return through the engine ! If its using the engine as an earth then it will cause electrolisis ! The way thats trying to crank sounds like a lazy starter / bad earth. Easiest way to tell is after trying to crank feel the 2 wires from the batt . If one is warm/hot thats where the fault is .
The engine is not starting due to the slow cranking. Check and clean all the connections . Don't forget that isolator switches and solenoids can go bad.
Does the engine start better when it's warm ?If not there could be air in the diesel system. Bleed the system all the way from the lift pump through to the injectors.
as a mechanic / marine mechanic..by the way its slowly cranking over. its possible. You have power but your not getting enough current....disconnect the battery's first , then find where the ground wires connect to your engine and any connections along the grounding cable... wire brush them all clean , as well as the point where the ground connects to the engine... dress the connections with di-electric grease to prevent future corrosion.
As a customer of a mechanic/marine mechanic, I will agree that this has worked for me. It's a lot cheaper than pulling the head and resurfacing it.
@@dohabandit You are preaching to the choir!
I hadn't read this and other comments before I posted about cleaning the battery posts and cable terminals then coating them with dielectric grease. Doh!
Be sure the check valve on the exhaust hose is working. It is possible to get seawater siphoning back into the exhaust and into the cylinders causing a hydro-lock which will mimic a bad starter/battery.
Thank you both for taking us along for the ride.
Whilst you may have a fuel issue, that isn’t what’s stopping your engine starting. It’s not a case of not starting per se, it’s not turning over. The batteries are fine as you’ve tested. My money would be on a bad/loose/corroded contact inc ground. Or bad solenoid/ starter motor. Once the motor is turning and not starting then you can look at air/fuel - nearly always the latter. It’s seems, however, your filters are doing the job as it runs fine once started which it wouldn’t do if there was a fuel issue.
I thought starter motor but why does it get better then eventually start?
Logically you have tested your batteries and they are ok. After you crank for a while you overcome the cranking resistance of your engine and start and run ok. If your engine has resistance to turning over and then starting, it would seem to indicate a head gasket issue. If after you've got it going and cleared it after about 30 seconds, turn it off and wait 10 seconds and try to restart, making sure that water is not pissing into your inlet manifold. If your engine tries to lock, dont try any more to star until you figure out whats locking it. When your engine is running check by removing radiator cap WHILST ENGINE COLD and check for smelly smoky air bubbles in radiator. rev it a bit, not much and look for these bubbles. If coolant level is down, top up so you can see water in top of filler neck. This will make it easier to see bubbles, if they manifest. Put in gear and either strain against the anchor to place load on the engine or steam under one third power and look for bubbles. Leave radiator cap off and let engine cool to ambient over 4 hours and try to start. Check for water in your inlet before doing so as you don't want to suck water in and fornicate your engine. If there are no bubbles in your engine coolant and its still tryin to hydrolock then water is leaking into inlet from somewhere. If there are bubbles and engine will not try to lock with radiator cap off, most likely head gasket. Otherwise, call Captain Ron. Whatever, you need a Mechanic.
Could also be the starter motor. Check the brushes. Easy to access and replace if you have them.
@@hawkman302 clamp test starter current with a DC Ammeter on the starter cable but fault is indicative of early hydrolock caused by water ingress into the cylinders.
@@MrCA610 because that's indicative of a leaky head gasket. Once it has started will turn over freely until water ingestion after sitting switched off and pressure seeps water into cylinders.
Tip for wounds, clean thoroughly then use superglue over top to seal wound (almost identical to medical superglue). Plaster, good as new!
It is great that your fuel filter caught the issue, but I also think your engine is not cranking as it should, which should be freely and quite quickly. I suggest you check all engine earth connections and starter connections: it is free to do and will at least assure you that they are OK. In a saline environment, I would protect all of these connections with dielectric grease. Next suspect, given you believe the battery to be OK, is the starter motor. You should carry a spare in any event. If you have one, swap it out when time suits to confirm /eliminate. Something isn't right, in any event.
I highly recommend a primary filter with a clear inspection bowl and heat deflector at the bottom, such as a Racor MA500. Add a drain valve with threads for a plug, and a vacuum gauge between the primary filter assembly and the engine. As the filter element collects contaminants it restricts fuel flow, which a vacuum gauge immediately indicates. I also think you have a weak starter or a wiring connection issue between the battery and the starter.
Thanks for the adventure,this old man love's going along, you are such a good couple,wish you the best in your life.😂
It is our pleasure to have you join us on this adventure, and we appreciate your kind words!
Supermodel on a sailboat, Lucky husband is living the dream, You two have great adventures, thanks for taking us along, seeing places we would never see.
I have yet to see a supermodel on this channel....
@@eccentricsmithy2746 She is a supermodel!
@@eccentricsmithy2746show us a selfie
It sounds to me like the starter motor. it running rough was the fuel, but that wouldn't stop it turning over. I'm sure its the starter. try the connections on the motor itself, if that doesn't work get it off and get it checked , I don't think its the head gasket
or you would have water in the oil which makes it go milky. good luck.
Yes, sounds like bad a connection on isolator switch or on starter, bad earth or the starter itself. You also need to polish the fuel as when in heavy seas it will get churned up and enter the intake once again.
my husband agrees with Andy.
Agree
Thank you for the detailed advice! I'll definitely check the connections on the starter motor!
Clean all the battery cable connections, both negative and positive, including the connections on the engine. Connect your voltmeter to the batteries & crank the engine, noting the amount of voltage drop. Then connect the voltmeter to the starter positive terminal and the engine ground terminal, testing the voltage drop again. If there is a significant difference, then bypass the battery switch (which is ancient) by connecting the two lugs on the same terminal on the back of the switch. If this solves the problem, then the old switch is the issue. If the batteries are good, all the connections are clean and it still won't turn over properly, then look at the starter. It's possible to disassemble the starter yourself to inspect the armature and brushes. The armature should be bright and clean. Do not use sandpaper unless it's a very fine grit. A Scotchbrite pad would be better.
Your starting issue isn't "air" or fuel... you aren't getting enough power to the starter or the starter itself is worn. Start with cleaning ALL the connections and don't assume the battery switch is OK, it's very old. You can also bypass all the cabling with jumper cables or spare battery cable.
I can't speak about possible hydro-locking... not my field, although I do know that you shouldn't crank the engine significantly unless you close the cooling intake. If the engine doesn't start, the impeller can fill up the exhaust with cooling water which can then backlog into the engine.
The starting problem could be a corroded selenoid contacts. You may already know this but a starting selenoid is a type of relay with very high current contacts. When engaged the contacts come together with a good degree of force. Corroded internal contacts exhibit much the same symptoms as corroded battery terminal or corrosion on the external selenoid connection.
There are two ways to troubleshoot: 1. Click the start key on and off several times quickly to see if you can knock some of the corrosion loose. Then it may start easily, 2. Bypass the selenoid contacts using a screwdriver or a wrench across the terminals. If either of those things work then that is the problem. I hope that is helpful. Of course it could also be just the battery internal resistance is high (failing battery) or corroded batt contacts or battery cables with bad or corroded contacts (the most obvious problems).
I really enjoy your videos.
It’s not always plain sailing as they say. Well done for showing that it isn’t all blue seas and golden sands. The engine failing would certainly freak me out. Here’s hoping that you’ve got things sorted with the engine and you can thoroughly get back to relaxing in the beautiful scenery.
Engine sounds fine x
Solanoid/starter motor or the earth for the engine x
A good addition for your first aid kit is iodine (for sterilisation) and a stitches kit
I used to teach my chaps to do stitches using oranges 🍊
Ie slice it and close the cut again practicing stitches x
The quicker you can sterilise the wound and stitch So its closed to the outside world and sources of infection x
Invaluable addition to your skills x
Its not hard really x
Still missing wedding invite 😂
Iodine, an absolute must in the tropics! All the best folks. Glad to see the drone didn't get itself drowned.
I know that this was a while back but I've just seen the video and your problem sound like a bad earth connection somewhere. Having just retired from 40 years afloat I can assure you that you will never run out of new problems to solve, good luck 😁
I think you maybe getting sea water coming back up the exhaust , have you made any changes to the anti syphon. Sounds to me if the engine is clearing out the water on the first attempts to start and then gets going. Have a look at the vent on the top of the antisyphon to make sure it has not become blocked by something
You know your stuff! We’ll have a look into it, thanks 😊
Thanks!
Hi, thanks for your video's, I really like them! I have had contaminated fuel in my boat and even though I have added all kinds of fuel cleaners the bacteria residu kept coming back and clotted the fuel system at times the engine was really needed... Once the fuels is contaminated the only thing that works is to totally empty your tank(s). Clean the inside and avoid dirty fuels and water entering your tanks. Filters only avoid the residu to enter your engine, but will be keep getting clotted when you don't clean your tanks.
Thank you for your kind words! I'm glad you enjoy the videos. We’ll look to get the tanks cleaned at the end of the season.
Check the starter motor and the grounds to it and to the battery. Your Battery isolator could be the sorce of poor connections...bypass it to test starting ...
I’m sure by now you know it’s water in the cylinders from removing the anti siphon valve a couple of videos ago. I was thinking noooooo!
I’m sure there are lots of opinions about your Engine, here are mine.
If a head gasket has failed you will normally have the pressurisation of the cooling system with coolant being blown out of the header tank and a drop in level of coolant. You may also get lots of white smoke coming from the exhaust.
By the sound I’m hearing it sounds like the engine is cranking slowly, hence difficulty in starting. Also allow time for the heater plugs to do their Job. I think you may have a volt drop on starting. This means you’re not getting full battery power at the Starter Motor.
Engines working in a salty damp environment often suffer with this problem. Disconnect all of your terminals Earths and Starter motor and give them a sanding and clean check battery and engine earths as well .
Hopefully this should help, once done check voltage on battery post, battery terminals, and started motor to ensure your not getting a voltage drop between the battery and starter motor. Then check the voltage on cranking on the Battery and starter motor. I would be looking at 1 to 2 volt drop max on cranking the starter motor.
Never mind infection, I'm glad she didn't get blood poisoning from the metal cut. All the best
Hi, I doubt its the head gasket! You don't get full power shorely because the engine is still restricted of diesel as you have a diesel bug problem, you also have to clear the hose from the tank to the racor filter you just cleaned. And then, disconnect the diesel same hose at the tank and shove a long screwdriver or something to clear it and make shore diesel flows.
You should get the tank opened as soon as you can and mope it all out and finally whipe it with a rag with gasoline which aparently kills the bug. Its hapend to me too. Have the anchor ready ...
A tip if its a week battery. Cover the engines air intake with your flat palm ( small engine like that) or somthing else but must seal well. Somebody else starts the engine and as it does not suke air, the engine will spin fast as no compression. Then take take hand off kwikly.
I've done that many times.
Great videos, first time I see you guys.
So glad I stumbled on this channel ! Lovely couple - cool boat - real life adventure ❤
I love that song you had playing “… little sad eyes , don’t you know ..”
I can’t find it with those lyrics
Great editing and music !
Thank you 🙏
I dealt with an engine before that had disconnects on it. The batts were good. The started was good. We just couldn’t get enough current across the disconnect to make the starter quit dragging. Fixed it by using a larger disconnect.
First thing id check is main engin earth conection and starter motor draw...... good luck guys hope you get it sorted 🙏🙏
Hmmmm. @3:20 That seems like a compression issue. Either water or fuel is leaking into the cylinders after the engine is shut off. Both will hydro-lock the cylinder while starting and will only go away after the piston is forced past the top of its cycle and the liquid is shot out into the exhaust. That explains why it turns over for a second and then halts. It also explains why trying a second or third time results in a running engine.
There was a period of time when high-voltage charging and starting cables were made with an aluminum core rather than the copper core we have all come to know and love. It was thought that aluminum wouldn't corrode the way copper does. Unfortunately, they were wrong. The problem is, when the aluminum breaks down, it turns to a white power that might as well be made of wood. The power you need just doesn't get to where you want it and, you rarely notice where the problem is. ( They even did it on some small aircraft. ) Check to be sure that none of your high-tension cables are aluminum and, if they are, replace them.
Aluminum wiring was even used in houses☠ It cost us an $800 radial arm saw. (luckily)
Aluminium corrodes if alkali gets onto it. Seawater is alkali so will corrode it down to white dust. Don't pee on your cables as that will also do it😊
@@Dilbert-o5k I couldn't agree more. Don't ever pee on electrical cables.
When you change fuel filters always top the new ones off with transmission fluid for a lubed start.
When it is windy like that at anchor or on a mooring run the mizzen up and the breeze will keep you down wind of the hook. Also it makes it a bit more comfortable inside.
Agree with those who have left comments about your battery connections. You have diesel bug as well. But the slow turning starter motor is not caused by fuel gunk. Check cable connections and deal with voltage drops … it’ll probably be that simple. It might be water (as your pal suggests), but the engine runs well once started.
If you can access the top of your tanks, rig a simple 12 volt pump, a Jerry can or two and a couple of pipes … and you’ll have a diesel polishing system that can be kept onboard and used regularly.
When you first started having engine trouble before you crossed the Panama canal I was wondering if you would really try to cross the Pacific Ocean without an engine you could count on. So glad to see you are getting it fixed before you try. Better to be safe and enjoy the trip than to worry about it.
Check earthing strap as this seems to be the problem. Also, only be head gasket if you have water in the oil. Take oil cap off and check for a milky residue around the top and cap, if it's black, colour of oil, then its not the gasket.
It is not head gasket, that would over pressurize the coolant system when running. Check your exhaust for unburnt fuel or excessive smoking when first starting= leaky fuel injector. If thats all good then starter, battery switch or cables. Test the cables and switch with the battery tester. As you check down the line- away from the battery, you will get a slight drop in the CCA of the battery. Very obvious if a cable or connection is bad cuz your CCA will dive into the toilet.
yes this above is good advice, also dont just pull the head off but use a special pressure gauge to measure cylinder pressure. this will let you know the pressure for each cylinder and also you will know the state of the engine, if piston rings are getting worn etc.
Thanks for the detailed explanation and troubleshooting tips! We’ll have a look into it.
always carry plenty os sterile eye pods (saline) great for flushing wounds , oh and the person who suggested super glue ! yes it works in a pinch , steri strips / wound closures good to , in an emergency gaffer tape , (really) , as a retired medic I've seen most lol clean and close , keep an eye on it ! sending love Darren.
The most relaxing video yet, the music is on point y'all! Welcome to the Pacific 👍 y'all are going to see magic. 👍🇺🇸
Revert to the basics: The contacts on your battery were dirty. You might try cleaning the battery cable to starter connection. Also make sure that your ground(earth) connections to the engine and the battery negative are good.
Before putting the cables back on the battery terminals, spray it all with Corrosion Guard (by Waterguard USA) or Corrosion-X. This helps keep the green fuzzies away and everything working better longer. Also spritz down the fuse box and other connectors. I spent 37 years working offshore and this stuff is a life saver.
Good luck with your engine. As others have said, start with all the heavy cables and look for loose or corroded connections. Negative side too. One way to find a bad connection is after attempting to crank for a few times, stop cranking and feel each joint for heat or warmth. Do this carefully so as not to get a burn. If you do find a warm or hot connection, undo it, clean up like a new pin and reconnect checking its tight. Grease or Vaseline around such joints will help keep the corrosion at bay. A spare known good starter motor on a boat is a must really. Sealed in a bag or cling film. Also check the heavy battery leads for any bulges that could be corrosion nodules.
One other thing that could stop it cranking over fast enough is, as your friend said, head gasket letting a little cooling water into the cylinders. This can be indicated by removing the glow plugs if they will come out, then cranking the engine over to see if any liquid (coolant) is squirted out. It’s good practice to periodically remove them when in a marina to make sure you can get them out and they aren’t seized in.
As you have done, start with the easy things first but if it’s having trouble cranking, battery, connections, cables, starter, something putting load on the engine.
You said you changed the impeller, could this have somehow got mangled. Might be worth a check. Also if it was bad then did the engine overheat causing head gasket issues and a little water in the cylinders?
First of your videos I’ve seen. I’ll be watching to see how you get on.
Check the rear bushing of the starter. I had the same issue and found the bushing to be oval. Then the brushes loose contact inbetween
Great video what you guys need to do is check your cables at the battery/ batteries and make sure that the alternator clean and no corrosion
Thanks for watching 😊
That sounds electrical - Check battery connections - fuel would not stop the engine turning over. Possible Starter ? last issue could be massive increase in compression - i.e. water in cylinder chamber
I had an old tracker doing the same thing. it was very hard to find the starter, so off it came. What I found after splitting the case was very corroded brushes. after I got them hot trying to start it, the starter would work. After a good cleaning the starter worked fine.
Common as rain, contaminated fuel. I'd check the starter, your batteries looked good but it sounds like a bare spot on the starter. Superior editing, sound and cinematography. Your fast becoming our #1 sailing channel, loved how each sequence blended so nicely throughout. Your efforts are really paying off. Best with your cut Becka's foot, do you carry tetanus syringe aboard? Praying for a safe passage and that engine problem is not major.
One tip that could be of use to you guys is, electrical contact grease ! I had trouble with some connections with water ingress on plug connections with the o rings not sealing. After doing that and on other connectors including my on board battery bank, no more problems or corrosion ! Cheers from New Zealand
Lovely. Fingers crossed on the bug. We had it and it was everywhere in the fuel line. I hope the fire pits were provided. Nothing worse than leaving fire mess on a white beach.
"make the tables level" I love that idea! Have a great time!
Thanks for an awesome video again. Hope engine is sorted.
You guys kept a cool head and didnt freak out, good job.
I can honestly say i would be pretty freaked out being in such a remote place without an engine.
Props to you guys, i hope everything works out. Cant wait for the next episode.
Safe travels.
Starter motor dragging, check terminal lead to starter for tightness if thats ok the brushes in the starter are worn, replace 😁
Thank you for sharing that troubleshooting tip!
Love your adventures and love your life it gives me so much Inspiration in my life. Peace and safety to you respect all the way for cornwall uk ❤
Thank you so much for your kind words! We are glad our adventures inspire you ☺️
@2:56 shouldt you hit the glow plugs before you start the engine?
If it’s not a computer controlled motor, use jumpers direct to the starter motor.
You can see the extreme voltage drop at the instrument cluster when you are trying to start.
Feel the 2/0 cables both positive and negative after a start attempt, looking for heat buildup which would indicate a bad cable or connection.
Physically work the cables feeling for a hard point / internal corrosion both positive and negative.
If all that produces no results remove the starter and overhaul / inspect it.
Finally if all that fails turn the motor using a socket feeling for any binding/ do not confuse the normal compression. You can remove the injectors for that test if you want.
Ensure the exhaust smoke if running is normal.
Wow I really look forward to Mondays because your next brilliant video is ready for me to watch, I have a good feeling you guys will sort the engine problem out, love you guys ⛵️⛵️👍👍
Cheers Stuart! Haha I think we will 😅
You should also check the furl tank ,I would drain it or if u can shine a torch in the tank and see if u have any rubbish ,even if u sifen some out with a piece ov hose make sure the hose hits the bottom ov the tank
Great video Guy’s, beautifully Edited. Becca really hope your foot is healing looked a nasty cut.
Engine look for a funky oil filler cap if water is getting into the oil it looks like Mayonnaise.
Bad head gasket doesn’t make starting hard just loss of power for a boat white smoke. I would go through electrical first check Negative grounds are on clean surfaces, starter and Battery terminals. Give surfaces some coarse sand paper.
Hope gets sorted cheaply. All the very best to you both from us in the Southwest 🇬🇧Take care
Thankfully it's totally healed now 😊 Thanks for the detailed advice! We’ll give it a look.
@@TeuluTribe Really pleased your all healed we love seeing your Travels and can’t wait to see all the fantastic places you’re going to visit.
Brother Owns a large Garage in the Bay & Sons a Vehicle Technician in the same place so unfortunately I learned an awful Lot over the years, all my boats have had big outboards but our T5 is Diesel.
Your engine is hydrolocked. This is why it is getting better the more you try to start it. Check your exhaust elbow for leakage of water into the engine. If the exhaust water can not pass to the outside because the elbow is plugged it returns to the engine. Very important you check this. It could easily blow up your motor. Good luck guys.
hydrolocked sounds much harder though? theirs was soft with weak sounding starter. water tends to sound hard as a rock?
If was hydrolocked would not start and possibly blow engine
A useful benchmark is to check the voltage right on the battery posts (not the cables) while you are cranking. Voltage above 9.5 points to trouble away from the battery.
Got to love a Monday after work Teula tribe video. Always a pleasure. Many thanks 🙏🏻
Who knew Mondays could be this exciting, right? 😅 Thanks for tuning in after work!
Great to see how proud you are of the boat and rightly so guys. 👍😃
She's a great little home!
Your starter will have a brass bushing on the throw out end, which is worn, easy to replace.
Damn engine, freaking me out and I'm on land. Hope you manage to make it reliable soon guys. All the best ❤
Loved the video as per normal. I hope you get the engine sorted out. You don't need that worry, especially at sea.
If you have a mechanical fuel pump, it's pretty dependent on the engine to turn at a certain speed to supply fuel to the engine. And the battery has to be strong enough to turn it fast enough for that to happen until it starts running on it's own. And it's not just the battery lugs that need to be shiny, the terminals / connectors attached to them and the cables connected to them all need to be clean and corrosion free. With the slowness that you have the engine cranking on video, disassemble and clean everything between the battery and the starter, both positive and negative.
Weak cranking means electrical not fuel or air. Check all connections in cct including the ground connection to engine
Good work, you two!
We had a Volvo diesel stop functioning on a 64' Show. Water in the diesel was the reason, probably included with the diesel when we filled her up in the meditaranean. Result was a complete engine change....
If there's water in the cylinders due to leaking head gasket, the exhaust sould smoke White and smel a bit sweet.
The danger of water on top of the piston is hydro lock.
You could bend a conrod or a valve....
Check your coolant. If you are regularly topping up the heat exchanger/header tank when there are no visible leaks then the chances are the cylinder head gasket is leaking. It could also be a cracked head. Did you have an overheating incident?. The uneven cranking indicates coolant causing an hydraulic lock in one or more cylinders. Is there bubbles/excess pressure in the cooling system when running? The condition will only get worse, so best to head for a location where service and parts are available. In the meantime try relieving the pressure in the the cooling system when engine is stopped to prevent coolant filling the combustion chambers. Stay safe, best of luck.
Put some grease on electrical connections - it protects from moisture and air so they wont rust. You can put grease on pretty much anything, really. On nuts and bolts for example. A simple trick that works wonders. There are special products available, but normal mechanical grease works fine, too.
Your choice of music is absolutely perfect. It sends me to where you are (instead of being here in disgusting Chertsey, Surrey)
Hi, England calling, having been involved with Boats for over 40yrs, can I suggest the following;
Change Fuel filters (ALL), and have the Starter motor checked out. I'd also have the fuel tanks checked for Water & finally Keep going
Be sure your battery cables are atleast 2/0 cables to the starter, both the minus and the plus cable all the way to the battery and check the terminals and be sure the all fittings are tight including those on the starter.
I'm really enjoying your videos. Nice to see you both are so self sufficient and handy.
After checking connections check the starter motor for heat, this will show it needs servicing or replacing. It can get stuck on and start a fire so be careful.
The engine sounds good, if it was air issues it would run hot or bad idling etc.
Thank you for taking the time to make this vlog 😊....nice...and loving this extended one
Sounds like you need a demulsifier to separate the water and keep it in the primary filter water trap. It can then be drained regularly. Howes makes a really good product and it is inexpensive. Whatever you use, use the higher amount per gallon that is recommended initially. Make sure to keep using the best diesel bug additive that you can find even after you think the issue is over. With closed tanks, it is worth the cost.
Great video
Sounds like your starter is the problem.
you might have a bad connection as well.
Just a thought.
Love seeing how Zach calms ya down hon, you are a beautiful couple.
Great you done that, some big marinas do fuel scrubbing or will suck it out
Feel the starter cable see if its hot? Look for a white/green powdery coating. Clean it off then tighten the cable to the starter so it has good contact. Seems the reason it turns over slowly is corrosion on terminal. Check air filter intake too then fuel sediment bowl for any water or contaminated fuel. Good fuel should be clear with no cloudiness. Try bleeding the fuel if air is in the line.
If you keep cranking the engine and it does not start you will have water backing up into the exhaust. So shut of the water intake and if it start you can open the water intake again.
That was really scary- I felt for you both! When the engine is finicky it gets scary. Glad it started and hoping it is fixed well soon for you. In my thoughts ❤
Lots of sailing videos, like your attitude and work, very best and hi from New Zealand
Drifting towards a jagged shoal in a storm while being far from home is my definition of an "inopportune moment". Clean electrical connections is "low hanging fruit" and should be done while in a safe harbor before departing. I don't sail but I do motor in the 30,000 Islands (60,000 hazards) so having a "kicker motor" is a must. It sure takes the stress off my mind allowing me to focus on the hazards ahead.
A friend of mine had mounted a 10hp Honda on his 38ft sailboat and we used it to power us back from Giants Tomb Island to Penetanguishine Ontario. Learning how to use old school charts and magnetic compass is also a good idea.
That looks like black algae, it is growing in your tank. I had an issue with my motorhome’s tank. Had to have a guy clean it, which they do on boats. None of the treatments I used got rid of it!! Many spare filters and change often. Best of luck
First, thank you for all the work it took to make a video this long. It turned out I was tough enough to look at the cut on your foot Becka, but thanks for the warning. I hope it heals quickly. Fingers are crossed about the engine. More will be revealed. I love the joy I see on your guys faces when you discover new places or things. I love the journey. Thanks again. Stay safe ❤🙏
Your support means a lot to us, thank you for watching our journey and for your well wishes! I'm sure we'll figure out what is wrong with the engine 😊
I live on a sailboat with my family and I could see my boat at the anchorage in Contadora. We as well are having engine troubles 😂😂 good luck
Either the starter motor or the battery switch. Clogged filters dont help mind. Good luck fixing it. Definitely electrical, maybe corroded earth somewhere
Why did you keep turning the key off😂🤣...love you guys content 👏👌
It is clear that you have an electrical problem. Likely a bad connection. The fuel issue was a problem yet to come, so it was good to change the filter.
I am not convinced it is the head gasket! Normally when they go that is it on a diesel, simply won't start. I had that on my previous yacht. The slow cranking in the beginning points to an electrical/starter/solenoid issue. Good luck!
Love your videos!
Theres a chap out there living on a boat he collects sea glass and makes art work and jewelry ... that he sells to part finance his boating life.
Its harder to find these days since plastic bottles took over...
Loved the macro photography on the beach. ..
You will get trees dropping leaves seasonally, or due to a dry season.... Or due to drought.. remember the state of the Canal is a regional/global phenomina
With El ninio and el ninia both originating off the coast of Peru.
Starter motor or electrical connection problem, if headgasket gone with water in the cylinders it would smoke like hell once started
My boat sat for 6 years full of fuel. It had no moisture whatsoever but a bad case of microbes.
We treated the fuel for microbes but they die and turn into that black stuff that plugs everything up. I had to pump out the fuel (50 gallons) and polished and stored it in Jerry cans. All my friends loaned me some. Then I cut holes through each baffle space and took a paint scraper and cleaned them out yuck. I smelled like diesel for 3 days. So when 8 boats from our club went on a blue water cruise/sail, 5 out of the 8 boats had the milkshake blues when it got rough. E were fine
Sounds like electrical problem check connections from battery to your starter, check earth strap to your engine, it could be starter motor often the brushes worn not sure how to test starter but it would be my guess fact you get full cranking intermittently, i dont think it head gasket as once it starts you would see exhuast color or suffer overheating good luck on fixing
Hey fuel will not cause the engine to crank over slowly. It’s gonna be either a loose wire or a dead battery.
When things go wrong it is blowing a gale at night big sea strong wind. You where very lucky you had spares remember get more and a few extra. Plus use a filter to fill up it will take chunks out. I use a old pair of tights.
What a beauty of headsail 👏
Who needs an engine with that.