Very handy. I'm spoiled at my current job because we have a half inch offset bender. It's another tool to carry around but it's incredibly quick to use for perfect offsets.
It “should” work because it’s the exact math. And for some benders (Klein and greenlee) it indeed does work fine every time. For some benders (Milwaukee) it doesn’t quite. On some benders, the distance between the very end of the shoe and the offset mark/arrow is so long that you end up bending the second offset in the middle/curved portion of the first offset. The 2-1/4” distance isnt enough to slide through to the second mark in order to bend it on the flat part of the pipe. Minor adjustments on the angle (a tad less than 10deg, which isn’t marked on any bender) and slightly more distance between marks (2-3/4 ish) will correct the lack of the math working out due to manufacturer making the shoe tip to arrow mark too long.
My suggestion, Always try to do your offsets standing up with the handle on the ground. Faster and easier to make it straight. Also easier to feel the pipe bend and prevent over bending. Also, you will less have to crouch and get up and crouch and get up each time. Your knees will thank you for that 😏
I usually measure at 2 1/4 and then at 4 3/4 and boom it works well for your typical 1900 box w/ bracket. I forgot to mention that you bend each mark to the 10” mark on your benders
I recall doing 2-1/4" + another 2-1/4" inch to the 10 degree. or 2-1/4" and 4-1/2". but having learned long ago and not doing much conduit, never bothered to own benders. lol well, until recently, which showed me just how rusty and forgetful about it I was. I got it going OK, by the end of job. 🤣
It was fun when I did a back to back offset with the offsets 90 degrees from from each other. The concrete wall also had a slight bow to it so I also had to bend the conduit a different direction to have it remain flush to the wall. But I am curious with how durable aluminum conduit is compared to the steal.
A lot of EMT fittings are die cast zinc, which isn't going to be too reactive with aluminum. The steel fittings are generally galvanized, which means that they are coated with zinc, which helps prevent galvanic corrosion. but there will be places that steel to aluminum contact is unavoidable, like that steel screws in the fittings that you clamp the conduit with. Yeah, those are generally plated, but once you've screwed the end of the screw into the conduit, there;s going to be some steel/aluminum contact. And yeah, you're going to get some dissimilar metals corrosion there. Apparently NEC doesn't consider this to be a concern, as it's explicitly allowed.
@@andrewalexander9492 Bravo, Andrew. Thanks for your response. Actually I knew these characteristics, but just failed to put my brain in the right gear.
flush with the bender end a bit risky and may flatten the conduit end to where it will become the choke and rubbing point inside the fitting. but it seems to me they changed all the benders sizing over the years. I've rarely do conduit, except for protection sleeve down basement walls, in which I opt for the cast offsets. never bothered to buy benders until recently for one job, my rust on bending shows. lol
Is there a certain distance to where an offset is needed? For example maybe only having a 12 inch run from a box to an outlet as opposed to a 5 foot run.
Just a noob question. Do you first cut the conduit to the length you need and then do the offset? Or do the offset and then cut that to the length you need?
Does Aluminum have the same conduciveness as steel? If you are relying on the EMT for your ground continuity is there any difference in that regard between aluminum and steel?
Even if you could have the best conductive material for your pipes, if you have loose locknuts and loose fittings, it doesnt matter the material of the pipes. But my guess would be the aluminum is better .
I start to bend 2 fingers width from the end of the pipe, and the second bend four fingers width from the end of the pipe. That way I duplicate them consistently. usually about 10° on my bender
10 degrees here as well but that's for the 1/2" in the center of the box the holes in the outside use a little less. And starting a bend a little but back from the end of a pipe is really useful for 2 reasons #1 to see If the bends are straight and level #2 to dry fit the pipe into the box and slide in or out to adjust the length to the next bend say an 90deg or a saddle down that piece same pipe.
Wow. Cute tool. But not sure its worth paying for that. I'm impressed by all the specialised tool that are invented . The cutest tool i have seen recently, was a minuscule pipe bender but for little wires 😋😋
that works for offsets from a flat surface to the box but that accounts for maybe 5% of the box offsets I have to make. most of my offsets come from bang-ons into a 4"x4" box (about 2.5" offset), or from an uneven surface into a 4"x4" box. it's pretty rare that I actually get a nice flat surface into a box, normally only for like fire alarm handles. 6", 8" and 12" boxes all have different offsets as well, so this seems really niche
So many things wrong with this, get the opinion from someone who buys and installs this stuff by the ton, hint tapes and level are your friends, consistent measurements are key to clean work, 3" and 9" works best with multiple sizes, other than that just keep it consistent. Bending on the hook will always deform the pipe making some fitting very difficult to completely slide on without a hammer. Step on a soup can then step on a beer can, let me know which one works best, hint equal strength costs about the same. Air bending is pretty much necessary for all smaller conduit in many but not all situations, a box offset is one of them, and consistent measurements along with applying all your wight as close to the bend as is possible, prevents deformity conduit, doglegging, and if you add a pencil, preferably a carpenters pencil, as you will be abusing it, greatly help with consistency, doglegs and it wipes off either your finger tips when you're done.
if you're kinking it then you're putting pressure too far away from the bend. if you're bending on the floor put most of your weight on the kick on the bender, and your other foot should just sit on the end of the pipe to keep it stable. if you're air bending (I mostly air bend since I work on a scissor lift 90% of the time), then keep your hands above the curve of the bender. right now I'm nursing a fractured elbow so I'm finding that bending with the pipe underneath my dominant armpit helps while still letting me apply all the pressure to near the bender.
You are right. These guys are not electricians. for 1/2" 10° offset multiplier about 6. Multiply with 3/8 ko hight is 2 1/4 spaceing. One have to be consistant with the mesurement from the end of the pipe.
It takes a while to master this one. Also, don’t try to pull a full complement of wires through half-inch or three-quarter inch or larger conduit. 1900 boxes are cheap, use the liberally. Do not pull through two 90° bends.
@@RashadTyrique pay close attention when they’re covering trig. You won’t master the art of pipe bending without it. Sorry for the unsolicited advice but it’s helped me tremendously throughout my 30 years in the trade.
Very handy. I'm spoiled at my current job because we have a half inch offset bender. It's another tool to carry around but it's incredibly quick to use for perfect offsets.
Best explanation hands down !! Did it in one shot thanks
Mark the pipe at 2" and 4-1/4" .. bend at 10 degrees .. gives you 3/8" box offset
It “should” work because it’s the exact math.
And for some benders (Klein and greenlee) it indeed does work fine every time.
For some benders (Milwaukee) it doesn’t quite.
On some benders, the distance between the very end of the shoe and the offset mark/arrow is so long that you end up bending the second offset in the middle/curved portion of the first offset. The 2-1/4” distance isnt enough to slide through to the second mark in order to bend it on the flat part of the pipe.
Minor adjustments on the angle (a tad less than 10deg, which isn’t marked on any bender) and slightly more distance between marks (2-3/4 ish) will correct the lack of the math working out due to manufacturer making the shoe tip to arrow mark too long.
Shout out to the legend Cory from Lowes and his amazing bending skills video.
My suggestion,
Always try to do your offsets standing up with the handle on the ground.
Faster and easier to make it straight. Also easier to feel the pipe bend and prevent over bending.
Also, you will less have to crouch and get up and crouch and get up each time. Your knees will thank you for that 😏
I agree 100%. it's much easier to eyeball the lines on the bender for your degree marks
I usually measure at 2 1/4 and then at 4 3/4 and boom it works well for your typical 1900 box w/ bracket.
I forgot to mention that you bend each mark to the 10” mark on your benders
10 degree not 10 inch
I recall doing 2-1/4" + another 2-1/4" inch to the 10 degree. or 2-1/4" and 4-1/2". but having learned long ago and not doing much conduit, never bothered to own benders. lol well, until recently, which showed me just how rusty and forgetful about it I was. I got it going OK, by the end of job. 🤣
3:37
Would have been nice to see the view from directly up above.
I bet we would have seen a slightly rolling offset 😋.
It was fun when I did a back to back offset with the offsets 90 degrees from from each other. The concrete wall also had a slight bow to it so I also had to bend the conduit a different direction to have it remain flush to the wall.
But I am curious with how durable aluminum conduit is compared to the steal.
Thank you for another awesome video ! Can you explain and give examples of shrinkage when bending ?
Is there any galvanic reaction between the aluminum conduit & the steel connectors or boxes?
That is my question as well.
A lot of EMT fittings are die cast zinc, which isn't going to be too reactive with aluminum. The steel fittings are generally galvanized, which means that they are coated with zinc, which helps prevent galvanic corrosion. but there will be places that steel to aluminum contact is unavoidable, like that steel screws in the fittings that you clamp the conduit with. Yeah, those are generally plated, but once you've screwed the end of the screw into the conduit, there;s going to be some steel/aluminum contact. And yeah, you're going to get some dissimilar metals corrosion there. Apparently NEC doesn't consider this to be a concern, as it's explicitly allowed.
@@andrewalexander9492 Bravo, Andrew. Thanks for your response. Actually I knew these characteristics, but just failed to put my brain in the right gear.
That is my question as well.
Thanks for keeping it simple.
Thanks I was really struggling with box off sets
flush with the bender end a bit risky and may flatten the conduit end to where it will become the choke and rubbing point inside the fitting. but it seems to me they changed all the benders sizing over the years. I've rarely do conduit, except for protection sleeve down basement walls, in which I opt for the cast offsets. never bothered to buy benders until recently for one job, my rust on bending shows. lol
Is there a certain distance to where an offset is needed? For example maybe only having a 12 inch run from a box to an outlet as opposed to a 5 foot run.
thanks!! i goofed with the dog leg part i have to rebend it back.. thx
Just a noob question. Do you first cut the conduit to the length you need and then do the offset? Or do the offset and then cut that to the length you need?
offset then cut, unless you know how much each type of bend take up in length from the total length you need
That is so much better than “Cory from Lowe’s “ which is something everyone should watch.
Does Aluminum have the same conduciveness as steel? If you are relying on the EMT for your ground continuity is there any difference in that regard between aluminum and steel?
Even if you could have the best conductive material for your pipes, if you have loose locknuts and loose fittings, it doesnt matter the material of the pipes.
But my guess would be the aluminum is better .
steel is a poor conductor and aluminum is a decent conductor so *shrug*
there's a reason we don't run steel wires for service ;)
@@tye3ow lol good one
how much does a box offset shrink the pipe
Much better than Corey from Lowes
Great channel!!!
Greetings! Great Job!!
Just saw the naruto and sasuke tatts! 🔥🔥🔥
Once you do this a few times it becomes automatic
You can say that with a lot of things in electrical
I start to bend 2 fingers width from the end of the pipe, and the second bend four fingers width from the end of the pipe. That way I duplicate them consistently. usually about 10° on my bender
10 degrees here as well but that's for the 1/2" in the center of the box the holes in the outside use a little less. And starting a bend a little but back from the end of a pipe is really useful for 2 reasons #1 to see If the bends are straight and level #2 to dry fit the pipe into the box and slide in or out to adjust the length to the next bend say an 90deg or a saddle down that piece same pipe.
Thank you 👍👍👍
Gotta have that steel, explosion proof.
Greenlee Lil' Kicker. Stick the end in, push the handle. Done.
Wow. Cute tool. But not sure its worth paying for that.
I'm impressed by all the specialised tool that are invented .
The cutest tool i have seen recently, was a minuscule pipe bender but for little wires 😋😋
that works for offsets from a flat surface to the box but that accounts for maybe 5% of the box offsets I have to make. most of my offsets come from bang-ons into a 4"x4" box (about 2.5" offset), or from an uneven surface into a 4"x4" box. it's pretty rare that I actually get a nice flat surface into a box, normally only for like fire alarm handles. 6", 8" and 12" boxes all have different offsets as well, so this seems really niche
cool, go buy us all one to use...
If all else fails just get the offset bender tool if you can get it ig🤷🏻
So many things wrong with this, get the opinion from someone who buys and installs this stuff by the ton, hint tapes and level are your friends, consistent measurements are key to clean work, 3" and 9" works best with multiple sizes, other than that just keep it consistent. Bending on the hook will always deform the pipe making some fitting very difficult to completely slide on without a hammer. Step on a soup can then step on a beer can, let me know which one works best, hint equal strength costs about the same. Air bending is pretty much necessary for all smaller conduit in many but not all situations, a box offset is one of them, and consistent measurements along with applying all your wight as close to the bend as is possible, prevents deformity conduit, doglegging, and if you add a pencil, preferably a carpenters pencil, as you will be abusing it, greatly help with consistency, doglegs and it wipes off either your finger tips when you're done.
everything i was going to say and more. good analogy for beer can and soup can, thanks for the 3" & 9" tip.
How to bend a box offset when you already have an 30° offset?
why not just use mc cable? or if you have to do it outside why not use PVC conduit? why rigid metal conduit?
we use almost exclusively EMT in tilt
How do you bend 1in steel conduit when you only way 140lb finding real hard not to kink it and I m 60
if you're kinking it then you're putting pressure too far away from the bend. if you're bending on the floor put most of your weight on the kick on the bender, and your other foot should just sit on the end of the pipe to keep it stable. if you're air bending (I mostly air bend since I work on a scissor lift 90% of the time), then keep your hands above the curve of the bender. right now I'm nursing a fractured elbow so I'm finding that bending with the pipe underneath my dominant armpit helps while still letting me apply all the pressure to near the bender.
you buy a super expensive hydraulic hand pump or electric over hydraulic pumped bending machine. or call someone else to do the conduit(lol)
Is this in my Uglys’?
shouldnt they be measured, so if you have several boxes next to each other, they all look the same?
It will become an automatism.
Dont waste time marking box offsets.
You are right. These guys are not electricians. for 1/2" 10° offset multiplier about 6. Multiply with 3/8 ko hight is 2 1/4 spaceing. One have to be consistant with the mesurement from the end of the pipe.
@@mihovillmisha9885 And you are not an artist. You are just bending damn pipe.
It takes a while to master this one. Also, don’t try to pull a full complement of wires through half-inch or three-quarter inch or larger conduit. 1900 boxes are cheap, use the liberally. Do not pull through two 90° bends.
2:33
2:58
3:13
Seems like the easiest bend besides a 90
I’m a month into my 1st year apprenticeship with Local 98 IBEW Philadelphia 🥳
@@RashadTyrique pay close attention when they’re covering trig. You won’t master the art of pipe bending without it. Sorry for the unsolicited advice but it’s helped me tremendously throughout my 30 years in the trade.
@@RashadTyrique local 716 (Houston) here btw
@@Ephesians-ts8zejust for clear understanding, by trig you meant trigonometry, correct?
@@VoltzyBoi yes sir
Video starts at 2
Would you get to the point please
Hurry up and explain! I don't want to hear the whole story
You talk too much