First of all thank you for this video. I just did this job. You don’t have to remove the PTO arm. 1. Just remove the spring underneath the double pulley arm. This will allow you to swing the PTO arm enough for the bolt connecting the two pulleys to drop out. 2. Loosen and take off the nut on top of the upper pulley. This will allow the bolt to drop through both the upper and lower pulley. 3. With a metal punch, punch out both bearings. There are two. Make sure you keep the spacer between both the bearings as you mentioned in the video. 4. Carefully tap in both the top and lower bearings. Make sure you include the spacer with some grease. 5. The bearings will be a tight fit. Take your time and tap these in. You will probably have to tap/hit these in with some force. 6. Make sure these bearings are tapped in a little below the surface of the PTO arm cavity and not flush with the surface. 7. Put the upper and lower pulleys in place with the two washers for each pulley, and slide the bolt through the two pulleys and fasten the nut on bolt from the upper pulley. If done correctly, they should both spin in unison. 8. Attach the spring back underneath the double pulley unit. Note: someone mentioned their pulleys didn’t spin and it seemed pinched. This is because you didn’t tap in the bearings far enough.
Thank you for this video, helped me so much. FYI in Canada the arm assembly with the bearings is $188 plus tax as of July 2023. I purchased the bearings for $15 each so a big savings thanks to your video.
@@EshlemaniaTV I just replaced my pulley arm with the JD part AM137197. In August of 2022 it's now $121.50, and I got it from Hartville Hardware in OH via Amazon. Wow, there really is inflation happening! The new part and the old part both had Chinese bearings.
Thanks for this... My idler pulley arm was tweaked and causing a side load on these bearings also. Replaced these 2 bearings and the idler pulley and then straightened out the alignment of the pulley = a mower that works the way it should.
My x360 has just started to throw the drive belt.. So I'm guessing this is due to the pulley/bearing having some slop... What are your thoughts? Cheers
Just did mine, but it was baaad. Locked up the pulley and ruined the arm. Thought I lost the washers for the stack pulley... then I looked through the pile of destroyed races and melted ball bearings. Melted the washers to the inner races, into the inner seal grooves. It's only been howling for 4 years in my lawn service, might've waited just a little too long to do this lol.
Thanks - the universal bearing code is 6203-2RS (40mm OD x 17mm ID x 12mm width - 2 x rubber seal) - this 6203 bearing is also used on the idler pulleys (6203-2RS - idlers can be split and bolted together for bearing replacement) and the blade spindle (2 x 6203-ZZ metal shield - remove shield on upper bearing inner face) - this is true for my JD X300 42’ Mulching deck.
Hi, thanks for the info. My problem is the hole at the other end of the arm is worn out and the entire arm assembly wobbles up and down. I replace the bushing and the little smaller gold U channel arm and it helped a lot. I'll just replace the entire arm soon. 121.00 is the best price I could find.😭
Im having a problem putting the double pulley back together the drive pulley becomes so tight it won’t turn..... is there suppose to be a spacer anywhere?? Any help will be appreciated. Thanks in advance
Any idea how to fix mower deck height adj knob. It’s frozen rock solid. Also diff foot pedal on left side floor board is frozen. Purchased X595 used. Primary use here in NE was to plow with it. I TOOK rusted Curtis cab off and now in the process of de-rusting it. Seat adj was frozen solid as well got that free yesterday with copious sums of penetrating oil, sitting on tractor moving forward and back until it broke loose using my legs and core. Great workout. I’m so sore today! :-). The Rest of the tractor looks great. Frame engine etc. Yanmar purrs like a kitten. This thing needs some TLC, but I think it’s worth the effort. Any advice is grateful.
Can you show me the the exploded view of this main double pully? I have mine apart and need to see how the arm attaches to the deck itself I think I have it right but wanted to see for proper washer and spacer placement
My mower deck 54c looks just like this deck and It looks like the pulley nearest the one you are reviewing in this video is sitting at an angle when the belt is on what should I see or do?....dave
The double Pulley has an Idle Arm under it. If you trace it back to the support bar you will more than likely find it is cracked. It will be hard to see where it has cracked because thew belt and springs are holding it in place. I noticed the tilt and went through a few belts and still did not see it. It deck eventually stopped working and then I saw where it was broken.
Buck Hardware I replaced the arm with the bearings. When I put everything back together and engaged the PTO for the mower the top pulley was the only pulley spinning the lower pulley wasn’t turning therefore the mower isn’t working. Any suggestions?? Thanks in advance
@@EshlemaniaTV ok because I just got a new mower and I can hear something like rattle and stuff and I noticed that pulley like rock back and forth pretty fast
Take the belt off and rotate the pulley by hand. See if the pulley wobbles when you spin it by hand or if it makes a growling sound. It sounds like you should check all the pullies on your deck. A lot of times if one is bad there's a good chance another one is starting to go bad.
@@EshlemaniaTV idk if that's the actual problem just something I noticed lol but the problem is that rattle and vibration I feel on the handles on the zero turn
Can you please advise the Exact correct bearing number for those 2 bearings? I have a X320 JD. I am also looking to download a Complete Service Manual for this tractor. No luck to date. Trying to increase Reverse Speed. I know of the 2 bearings but there is also an adjustment slot on the Reverse (and Forward) Pedal. Any suggestions?
So I had this issue with the bottom pulley of that whole assembly rubbing against the spring below it. It would pretty much last a whole summer before the spring snaps so my lazy ass was buying the spring once a summer (I always had intentions on fixing the issue, but procrastination is a bitch when you have a million other things going on). Come to find out this was the reason for it and now I have to replace the pulley too because I waited lol Lesson being: PROCRASTINATION WILL COST YOU.
I've tried penetrating oil and also tried adding heat using a mapp gas torch and haven't been able to get the nut to break free to get those 2 pulleys off so I can reach the bearings, any idea or solution to this issue?
Eshlemania TV After applying copious amounts of penetrating oil and trying an impact I finally got it apart, found the bearings inside had basically worn away to nothing and fused to the inside of the cast iron piece. I’ll have to order a new one through Deere but I’ll be buying some new bearings to repair it in the future before it gets to where it is now. I was given this tractor after my grandmother passed and there was little to no maintenance on it so I’m doing a whole PM/repair on it.
ahhh just crank it till its real tight and about to strip out then realize the mistake and back off a quarter turn and then fix it when it breaks off!!! USually about two beers for millenials but make sure its one of dem fancy beers
Great video. I’m just doing mine now, do you tighten the nut and bolt that goes through the double pully and bearing right up tight or leave some play in it? When tightened the pullies don’t seem to turn?
Any idea what the part number for that spacer is? I found a parts list for my 48 inch that says the bearings are JD9296 (your vid says JD8535) but I'm still stumped finding a replacement spacer as mine was totally wrecked when the bearings failed.
The bearings in the double pulley on this style deck are NOT JD9296. The JD9296 bearings were used on some of the decks that are older than this style.
I just did mine and the part you listed jd8535 is a 17x40x12(6203-2rs). But it should be a 16x40x12(6203-16-2rs). I dont know if the slop will matter though since the pulleys are torqued tight together through the bearings
@@michaelrithaler3519 Eshelmania, Exactly what is the correct part # for those two bearings in the Cast Arm? I have a X320 mower. Also looking to download Service Manual with no success.
Use OEM bearing if possible. My aftermarket idler pulley with new bearings installed lasted only two seasons. The OEM original lasted 25 years ! All parts are not created equal.
Depends where you get your bearings. There are some bearings the you can get from a vender other then the original OEM that are better than what the original OEM uses and can cost you less because you're cutting out the middle man or not paying for an OEM sticker. As far as the bearings being mentioned in this video, a lot of these were only 4-5 years old when the bearings began failing. So this is an example of where you can probably get an aftermarket bearing that will last you longer than the one used by the OEM.
All depends on how well it is maintained. For example, a lot of people think there is no point in greasing their spindle assemblies since most have sealed bearings these days. That is something that will lead to early failure of the bearings. Even though the grease is not going directly into the bearings themselves, the grease helps keep moisture out that can get into the bearings, either directly or through condensation, and cause rust and other issues that will lead to the bearing failing.
I just bought a new X590 JD garden tractor. I completely filled all 3 blade spindle cavities with grease, they were totally dry from the factory. Also greased idler pulley and all front wheel bearings. Given this initial maintenance and will grease every 50 hours, how many hours do you think I will get out of 3 spindles and idler bearings? Thanks... ps..I will not wash off my deck with water, another issue people often do
Anyone know comparable part numbers for a Timken or SKF bearing? If I do this job again, I don't want to replace the bearings with Chinese bearings that fail in less than 300 hours again and Stens parts don't seem a whole lot better than JD, just a whole lot cheaper.
I got my new bearings from the JohnDeer dealer for $12... after they ordered me a whole new arm.. It was the mechanic that told the parts guy, and he got the new bearings off the shelf for me.. So, they have the bearings, but want to sell you the $68 part.😡
You have not said anything worth listening to for remove and replace. All you did was bs the whole time. It's a good thing you don't work at writing books on repair work.
Yet somehow there are plenty of comments on this video from other people that found this "bs" useful and were able to repair their double pulley are rather than buy a whole new assembly.
Joseph, I don't agree with you. The video doesn't take you through the procedure step by step, but it has enough information that saves you significant time and money. Maybe you can create a video that demos the procedure step by step. I appreciate the time and effort put into this valuable video.
First of all thank you for this video. I just did this job. You don’t have to remove the PTO arm. 1. Just remove the spring underneath the double pulley arm. This will allow you to swing the PTO arm enough for the bolt connecting the two pulleys to drop out.
2. Loosen and take off the nut on top of the upper pulley. This will allow the bolt to drop through both the upper and lower pulley.
3. With a metal punch, punch out both bearings. There are two. Make sure you keep the spacer between both the bearings as you mentioned in the video.
4. Carefully tap in both the top and lower bearings. Make sure you include the spacer with some grease.
5. The bearings will be a tight fit. Take your time and tap these in. You will probably have to tap/hit these in with some force.
6. Make sure these bearings are tapped in a little below the surface of the PTO arm cavity and not flush with the surface.
7. Put the upper and lower pulleys in place with the two washers for each pulley, and slide the bolt through the two pulleys and fasten the nut on bolt from the upper pulley. If done correctly, they should both spin in unison.
8. Attach the spring back underneath the double pulley unit.
Note: someone mentioned their pulleys didn’t spin and it seemed pinched. This is because you didn’t tap in the bearings far enough.
Thank you for this video, helped me so much. FYI in Canada the arm assembly with the bearings is $188 plus tax as of July 2023. I purchased the bearings for $15 each so a big savings thanks to your video.
Glad it helped
Thanks, The part is now a little over $100 with tax as of June 2021. The bearings are still cheap. I certainly appreciate the help!
Yeah it just doesn't make sense to purchase an entire cast iron arm just because the bearings failed.
@@EshlemaniaTV I just replaced my pulley arm with the JD part AM137197. In August of 2022 it's now $121.50, and I got it from Hartville Hardware in OH via Amazon. Wow, there really is inflation happening! The new part and the old part both had Chinese bearings.
Thanks for this...
My idler pulley arm was tweaked and causing a side load on these bearings also. Replaced these 2 bearings and the idler pulley and then straightened out the alignment of the pulley = a mower that works the way it should.
Glad to hear you got your mower deck fixed up.
I can't thank you enough for this wonderful video. It has saved me!!! THANK YOU KIND SIR!!!!!
Thank you! back up and running. D. Smith Bangor PA
Good to hear!
My x360 has just started to throw the drive belt.. So I'm guessing this is due to the pulley/bearing having some slop...
What are your thoughts?
Cheers
Just did mine, but it was baaad. Locked up the pulley and ruined the arm. Thought I lost the washers for the stack pulley... then I looked through the pile of destroyed races and melted ball bearings. Melted the washers to the inner races, into the inner seal grooves. It's only been howling for 4 years in my lawn service, might've waited just a little too long to do this lol.
Thanks - the universal bearing code is 6203-2RS (40mm OD x 17mm ID x 12mm width - 2 x rubber seal) - this 6203 bearing is also used on the idler pulleys (6203-2RS - idlers can be split and bolted together for bearing replacement) and the blade spindle (2 x 6203-ZZ metal shield - remove shield on upper bearing inner face) - this is true for my JD X300 42’ Mulching deck.
Great video. Why do we want grease in a sealed hole?
a hole filled with grease leaves no room for water/moisture to collect.
Drill and tap that housing for a zerks? Make it greasable?
That's not a bad idea, but it's in a tough spot to get to with a grease gun even if you did add a grease zerk.
Hi, thanks for the info. My problem is the hole at the other end of the arm is worn out and the entire arm assembly wobbles up and down. I replace the bushing and the little smaller gold U channel arm and it helped a lot. I'll just replace the entire arm soon. 121.00 is the best price I could find.😭
Im having a problem putting the double pulley back together the drive pulley becomes so tight it won’t turn..... is there suppose to be a spacer anywhere?? Any help will be appreciated. Thanks in advance
Any idea how to fix mower deck height adj knob. It’s frozen rock solid. Also diff foot pedal on left side floor board is frozen. Purchased X595 used. Primary use here in NE was to plow with it. I TOOK rusted Curtis cab off and now in the process of de-rusting it. Seat adj was frozen solid as well got that free yesterday with copious sums of penetrating oil, sitting on tractor moving forward and back until it broke loose using my legs and core. Great workout. I’m so sore today! :-). The Rest of the tractor looks great. Frame engine etc. Yanmar purrs like a kitten. This thing needs some TLC, but I think it’s worth the effort. Any advice is grateful.
Can you show me the the exploded view of this main double pully? I have mine apart and need to see how the arm attaches to the deck itself I think I have it right but wanted to see for proper washer and spacer placement
My mower deck 54c looks just like this deck and It looks like the pulley nearest the one you are reviewing in this video is sitting at an angle when the belt is on what should I see or do?....dave
The double Pulley has an Idle Arm under it. If you trace it back to the support bar you will more than likely find it is cracked. It will be hard to see where it has cracked because thew belt and springs are holding it in place. I noticed the tilt and went through a few belts and still did not see it. It deck eventually stopped working and then I saw where it was broken.
This is probably the most common repair that we would do on these style mower decks.
Buck Hardware I replaced the arm with the bearings. When I put everything back together and engaged the PTO for the mower the top pulley was the only pulley spinning the lower pulley wasn’t turning therefore the mower isn’t working. Any suggestions?? Thanks in advance
Is that pulley supposed to shake while mowing or is it suppose to stay in one spot?
It will move a little while mowing because it is under spring tension. But it should not wobble.
@@EshlemaniaTV ok because I just got a new mower and I can hear something like rattle and stuff and I noticed that pulley like rock back and forth pretty fast
Take the belt off and rotate the pulley by hand. See if the pulley wobbles when you spin it by hand or if it makes a growling sound. It sounds like you should check all the pullies on your deck. A lot of times if one is bad there's a good chance another one is starting to go bad.
@@EshlemaniaTV I'll just let Kubota look at it since it's new and has warranty lol
@@EshlemaniaTV idk if that's the actual problem just something I noticed lol but the problem is that rattle and vibration I feel on the handles on the zero turn
will a 60 or 62 inch deck fit a 530 x john deere riding
No 54 was the biggest you could go in that series.
Good info, thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
great site thanks for sharing!! thumbs up!
Thanks for watching!
Can you please advise the Exact correct bearing number for those 2 bearings? I have a X320 JD.
I am also looking to download a Complete Service Manual for this tractor. No luck to date.
Trying to increase Reverse Speed. I know of the 2 bearings but there is also an adjustment slot on the Reverse (and Forward) Pedal. Any suggestions?
Same here on how to fix
man you are greedy and selfish. He aint your secretary
So I had this issue with the bottom pulley of that whole assembly rubbing against the spring below it. It would pretty much last a whole summer before the spring snaps so my lazy ass was buying the spring once a summer (I always had intentions on fixing the issue, but procrastination is a bitch when you have a million other things going on). Come to find out this was the reason for it and now I have to replace the pulley too because I waited lol
Lesson being: PROCRASTINATION WILL COST YOU.
You're not alone there! Sometimes it's tough to find the extra time
I have the same problem with the pulley rubbing on the lower arm/spring. I don't see how the bearing replacement will resolve that.
I've tried penetrating oil and also tried adding heat using a mapp gas torch and haven't been able to get the nut to break free to get those 2 pulleys off so I can reach the bearings, any idea or solution to this issue?
Do you have access to an electric, air, or battery powered impact gun? That would be the easiest way. If that's not an option maybe try a breaker bar.
Eshlemania TV After applying copious amounts of penetrating oil and trying an impact I finally got it apart, found the bearings inside had basically worn away to nothing and fused to the inside of the cast iron piece. I’ll have to order a new one through Deere but I’ll be buying some new bearings to repair it in the future before it gets to where it is now. I was given this tractor after my grandmother passed and there was little to no maintenance on it so I’m doing a whole PM/repair on it.
Glad to hear you got it apart.
@@EshlemaniaTV That's what I used. A breaker bar, 1/2" ratchet and LOTS of WD40...!!
How many Ft. Lbs of torque required on Flange Nut?
ahhh just crank it till its real tight and about to strip out then realize the mistake and back off a quarter turn and then fix it when it breaks off!!! USually about two beers for millenials but make sure its one of dem fancy beers
Great video. I’m just doing mine now, do you tighten the nut and bolt that goes through the double pully and bearing right up tight or leave some play in it? When tightened the pullies don’t seem to turn?
Yes, there are two spacers required, John Deere part number 24M7097 I had the same issue myself.
Any idea what the part number for that spacer is? I found a parts list for my 48 inch that says the bearings are JD9296 (your vid says JD8535) but I'm still stumped finding a replacement spacer as mine was totally wrecked when the bearings failed.
The bearings in the double pulley on this style deck are NOT JD9296. The JD9296 bearings were used on some of the decks that are older than this style.
We gave in and bought the assembled piece. Next time I'll recognize the noise and get to a cheaper fix before the bearings fall completely apart.
I just did mine and the part you listed jd8535 is a 17x40x12(6203-2rs). But it should be a 16x40x12(6203-16-2rs). I dont know if the slop will matter though since the pulleys are torqued tight together through the bearings
@@michaelrithaler3519 Eshelmania, Exactly what is the correct part # for those two bearings in the Cast Arm? I have a X320 mower. Also looking to download Service Manual with no success.
well done!
Use OEM bearing if possible. My aftermarket idler pulley with new bearings installed lasted only two seasons. The OEM original lasted 25 years ! All parts are not created equal.
Depends where you get your bearings. There are some bearings the you can get from a vender other then the original OEM that are better than what the original OEM uses and can cost you less because you're cutting out the middle man or not paying for an OEM sticker. As far as the bearings being mentioned in this video, a lot of these were only 4-5 years old when the bearings began failing. So this is an example of where you can probably get an aftermarket bearing that will last you longer than the one used by the OEM.
That part is 93.00 dollars now at john deere dealer
$95 yesterday in good ole Western NY ouch
I’m looking at buying a x580 mower. How many hours should I expect to get out of the deck blade and idler pulleys? Thank you...
All depends on how well it is maintained. For example, a lot of people think there is no point in greasing their spindle assemblies since most have sealed bearings these days. That is something that will lead to early failure of the bearings. Even though the grease is not going directly into the bearings themselves, the grease helps keep moisture out that can get into the bearings, either directly or through condensation, and cause rust and other issues that will lead to the bearing failing.
I just bought a new X590 JD garden tractor. I completely filled all 3 blade spindle cavities with grease, they were totally dry from the factory. Also greased idler pulley and all front wheel bearings. Given this initial maintenance and will grease every 50 hours, how many hours do you think I will get out of 3 spindles and idler bearings? Thanks... ps..I will not wash off my deck with water, another issue people often do
Anyone know comparable part numbers for a Timken or SKF bearing? If I do this job again, I don't want to replace the bearings with Chinese bearings that fail in less than 300 hours again and Stens parts don't seem a whole lot better than JD, just a whole lot cheaper.
Timken and SKF are probably made in China too...
USE:timken ,99503
I got my new bearings from the JohnDeer dealer for $12... after they ordered me a whole new arm.. It was the mechanic that told the parts guy, and he got the new bearings off the shelf for me.. So, they have the bearings, but want to sell you the $68 part.😡
That is EXACTLY why we made this video!
Dude.Your video sucks.You should show how to remove the Assembly and how it goes back together.Take it off step by step.
You have not said anything worth listening to for remove and replace. All you did was bs the whole time. It's a good thing you don't work at writing books on repair work.
Yet somehow there are plenty of comments on this video from other people that found this "bs" useful and were able to repair their double pulley are rather than buy a whole new assembly.
Joseph, I don't agree with you. The video doesn't take you through the procedure step by step, but it has enough information that saves you significant time and money. Maybe you can create a video that demos the procedure step by step. I appreciate the time and effort put into this valuable video.