This chiken coop hoop house has been my most favorite to watch, I am only limited by my own imagination, I think a little like you do, I have back problems, not easy for me to crouch over walking into a low overhead door frame, I also hate hitting my head on anything hanging, lots of cool stuff in your video, for me to plan on building my chiken coop hoop house, thank you for putting my thoughts into your plans, really awesome hoop 🏠
thanks for the video. Really enjoyed it. Can't wait to build this coop. Is the panels you used 50" x 16 ft and how tall is the coop to the top of the ends. I am not very experienced in carpentry so I want to make sure I understand. I like your modified A frame design better then the complete round coop. A friend who is a carpenter suggested a I joist header so I wouldn't need a post in the middle. What do you think of that? If I built it 8 ft long, how many chickens do you think that would support? I'm thinking about using 4 x6's for the bottom frame with a foot on each end cut like a sled, so I can drag it around easily and often. If I build it 8 ft long, I'm thinking about using a 4 x 4 post for support the same distance as the width of the chicken roost instead of the middle so I won't have anything to trip over. Any thoughts or suggestions would be welcomed! Thanks for taking the time to make this video! Stayed up until 4 in the morning watching it over and over again, lol .
well I just noticed your material list, so I answered my own question on the size of the panels, lol. what quality tarps did you use, mils? and what were the size? Thanks.
Yes the panels are 16’x50”. If you can, I would stick with 8x12. You will be glad to have the extra space. Making the run like a shed seems reasonable to me. If you are going to drag it around I might stick with the post. It ties the roof and floor together at a low cost. Lumber is expensive right now. Truly your call. Build height comes in about 79”. You have a little wiggle room. I like to have 72” from the center brace on the floor to the bottom of the 2x4 roof line so I can walk around inside. This concept is very customizable and forgiving. Try and keep it light weight and start laying out what you want. If you stay within the basic dimensions it should come together for you just fine.
Do have a suggestion to make it mobile. I was going to use 4x6x14 to make the 12ft length you suggested. for the frame to make it sturdier, and and have a foot on each end stick out and make about a 60degree cut on the end so it wouldn’t dig in if the ground was uneven. Was wondering if you knew something that would be better? Again I’m not a carpenter lol, so any suggestions would be a big help.
@@pduggan3 I think that would work fine. You will have to notch the plywood so it sits inside your runners,but that is simple enough. The only thing I would be mindful of is having a gap around the bottom that would let predators squeeze or dig underneath. If you hold the cross braces up too much like a sled, you lose the security of the box frame on the ground. You can cut a piece of wood to fill in the space between your runners that sits against the ground and pop them off when you move the hoop house. Make a heavy wire skirt to discourage digging that you can flip up when it is time to move. Etc. Build the frame and walls. If you don’t like your first attempt, it is easy to adjust before the cattle panels are on. It is also normal to make adjustments once you start using it. If you make a couple mistakes, save your cut off‘s and reuse them for bracing , door frames, and so forth. I say move forward and see what you can do.
Where is the ventilation for the coop? Chickens create a lot of moisture over night and if they have moisture on their combs and waddles when they go out into bitter temps they get frost bite. Also where are the roosting bars? They will roost on top of the nest boxes but thats not good. Other than that, the design was great!!
25 min in. Vent by sliding the plexiglass open, closed, or remove entirely depending on how much vent you need based on conditions. Some builds we vent outside and screen with hardware cloth. Both have worked well. We have also cut vents in the entry door if the coop tends to be humid. Roosting bars are at 30:45 in the configuration the owner wanted. Best wishes with your build if you go with a hoop house.
I love all the useful tips you give in this video. As a single woman that will be building mine myself, I find it very useful. Thanks!
This chiken coop hoop house has been my most favorite to watch, I am only limited by my own imagination, I think a little like you do, I have back problems, not easy for me to crouch over walking into a low overhead door frame, I also hate hitting my head on anything hanging, lots of cool stuff in your video, for me to plan on building my chiken coop hoop house, thank you for putting my thoughts into your plans, really awesome hoop 🏠
Thanks for sharing...
Nice chicken house
Very helpful, detailed video, appreciate that!
Thank you for your detailed
Give me some ideas. Thank you. Kansas
Love this video!
Great!
well done nice job
But will it stop a bear with an angle grinder? Excellent build, very detailed 😎
I don't think anything stops a bear!
thanks for the video. Really enjoyed it. Can't wait to build this coop. Is the panels you used 50" x 16 ft and how tall is the coop to the top of the ends. I am not very experienced in carpentry so I want to make sure I understand. I like your modified A frame design better then the complete round coop. A friend who is a carpenter suggested a I joist header so I wouldn't need a post in the middle. What do you think of that?
If I built it 8 ft long, how many chickens do you think that would support? I'm thinking about using 4 x6's for the bottom frame with a foot on each end cut like a sled, so I can drag it around easily and often. If I build it 8 ft long, I'm thinking about using a 4 x 4 post for support the same distance as the width of the chicken roost instead of the middle so I won't have anything to trip over. Any thoughts or suggestions would be welcomed! Thanks for taking the time to make this video! Stayed up until 4 in the morning watching it over and over again, lol .
well I just noticed your material list, so I answered my own question on the size of the panels, lol. what quality tarps did you use, mils? and what were the size? Thanks.
Yes the panels are 16’x50”. If you can, I would stick with 8x12. You will be glad to have the extra space. Making the run like a shed seems reasonable to me. If you are going to drag it around I might stick with the post. It ties the roof and floor together at a low cost. Lumber is expensive right now. Truly your call. Build height comes in about 79”. You have a little wiggle room. I like to have 72” from the center brace on the floor to the bottom of the 2x4 roof line so I can walk around inside. This concept is very customizable and forgiving. Try and keep it light weight and start laying out what you want. If you stay within the basic dimensions it should come together for you just fine.
Do have a suggestion to make it mobile. I was going to use 4x6x14 to make the 12ft length you suggested. for the frame to make it sturdier, and and have a foot on each end stick out and make about a 60degree cut on the end so it wouldn’t dig in if the ground was uneven. Was wondering if you knew something that would be better? Again I’m not a carpenter lol, so any suggestions would be a big help.
@@pduggan3 I think that would work fine. You will have to notch the plywood so it sits inside your runners,but that is simple enough. The only thing I would be mindful of is having a gap around the bottom that would let predators squeeze or dig underneath. If you hold the cross braces up too much like a sled, you lose the security of the box frame on the ground. You can cut a piece of wood to fill in the space between your runners that sits against the ground and pop them off when you move the hoop house. Make a heavy wire skirt to discourage digging that you can flip up when it is time to move. Etc. Build the frame and walls. If you don’t like your first attempt, it is easy to adjust before the cattle panels are on. It is also normal to make adjustments once you start using it. If you make a couple mistakes, save your cut off‘s and reuse them for bracing , door frames, and so forth. I say move forward and see what you can do.
Where is the ventilation for the coop? Chickens create a lot of moisture over night and if they have moisture on their combs and waddles when they go out into bitter temps they get frost bite. Also where are the roosting bars? They will roost on top of the nest boxes but thats not good. Other than that, the design was great!!
25 min in. Vent by sliding the plexiglass open, closed, or remove entirely depending on how much vent you need based on conditions. Some builds we vent outside and screen with hardware cloth. Both have worked well. We have also cut vents in the entry door if the coop tends to be humid.
Roosting bars are at 30:45 in the configuration the owner wanted.
Best wishes with your build if you go with a hoop house.