Fabricating A Multistone Turquoise Pendant
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- Опубліковано 13 лют 2018
- This jewelry making video demonstrates fabrication methods that include: Using a marked mandrel to make multiple bezels of the same size, using a sanding disc to straighten the ends of bezel wire, using Thermo-Loc to hold a piece for hammer and punch stone setting, hammer and punch stone setting, and using wire to raise a stone in a bezel.
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Thank you very much for spreading your knowledge. Love watching your videos.
Just love to watch you work. Inspiring and educational to see your professional skills. Good Job!
Always fascinating to watch and learn. Thank you
Stunning.
Gorgeous
No hammer piece involved!
Hi steve , did you use only easy solder for this work?
I used hard for the bezel strip, medium to solder the bezels to the plate and easy to solder the bail on.
Thanks for the great video, Steve. Are you using a cutoff wheel around 7:30 or is that some kind of sanding disk? I've been using the rubber/silicon grit wheels for grinding down silver to merge with bezels, but I'm not convinced they are the best for the job.
That is a course sanding disc followed by a medium silicone wheel. I like the medium silicone wheel because it leaves the surface ready to polish.
Thanks Steve! I'm going to order up some sanding discs and see how I like them.
Hi Steve! Love this. Did you use a hair dryer at 9:28? :D
Yes, that is a hair dryer :) I used it to warm up the Thermo-Loc to make it pliable. It didn't work very well on that large of a piece and I ended up carefully heating it with my torch. I used it to warm up the pendant to release it from the Thermo-Loc, That worked very well. The manufacturer says not to use a torch, it is dangerous :)
May I ask please, what the liquid is that run down your solder seam before adding the solder. And what is the goo that you heated to hold your piece for bezel setting! I so appreciate that you are willing to share your experience and knowledge. I’m still learning.
I am venturing a guess with the liquid being flux. My best guess would be Batterns or MyT Flux, or something similar. The goo is Thermo-Loc. You can heat it (I have seen it done in hot water) and mold it to hold your piece in place! Other products are similar, but people tell me Thermo-Loc is best. I have Jett Set.
The liquid is Batterns liquid flux and the goo is Thermo-Loc
just wondering why you ''shim'' your bezels before you set the stones. is it just to add height so you don't have to cut down your bezel height?
Yes, The stones I used varied in height.
Steve Howard thanks for reply!
What is the black "putty" you use to pick up and set your stones?
Hi Heather, it is sculpting wax which is sticky. Bee's wax would work also.
Thank you!
Like this? www.riogrande.com/product/sculpt-wax-block/700022
Yes! That's the stuff.....
Perfect! Thanks again!
I'm just getting started with learning how to solder and set bezels. I have some of the basic tools but have been struggling to get the bezel to lay closely to the stone without a ridge with my burnisher (I have one like yours). Can you tell me what the little tool is called that you tap with a hammer to close in the bezel tighter?
The tool is a punch I made. You can buy a set of small punches at a hardware store. The size of the small end that contacts the bezel can be modified by grinding it with a course sanding disc. The end should be relatively small depending on how thick your bezel is. A wider flat end will work well on 28 gauge or 26 gauge. You could also use a chasing tool. The end of the tool should be flat with slightly rounded edges and the end should be sanded down to 600 grit so it will leave a smooth surface. A polished end would be slippery and a little harder to control. Avoid letting your burnisher or punch ride over the top edge of the bezel. I used 26 gauge bezel wire in this project and I used a medium grit silicone wheel to smooth the bezels after the punch work. Overlap the punching locations to maintain as smooth a surface as possible. Start at a low angle to get the bezel to touch the stone all the way around then use a steeper angle on the punch to close the top edge down without distorting the top edge of the bezel. Takes practice :) The angle of attack is very important. If you continue to push the bezel wire against the stone after it is touching the stone the bezel will stretch and it will not tighten. The goal is to gradually roll the bezel over the stone edge in an even manner, beginning at the lower portion of the bezel and finishing at the top with an angle of motion that pushes the bezel down and in at the same time.
Thank you so much for going into so much detail! I greatly appreciate it! :) Definitely going to do that and play around with my copper until I get the hang of it.