It was solved by adjusting the position of the hook shaft bushing because the needle bar and the hook end collided. Then, the thread breaks only when the needle bar is at the left end. The needle and hook do not bump into each other. The upper chamber rotates around the bobbin case and seems to break when the thread passes through the end of the hook. The upper chamber does not come out as the needle stick goes to the left end. Do you happen to know why? How about your sewing machine 107w102?
@@derekdoeschannel You sold the product... The thread does not break when the needle bar is in the center or on the right. It is difficult to figure out exactly why the thread breaks only when the needle bar is on the left. Because of this reason, I cannot embroider with a long amplitude.
@@derekdoeschannel Even if the needle bar is placed on the left end, the gap between the needle and the hook tip is far apart. When the needle bar is in the center, the timing is right and the needle eye and the hook tip pass without hitting each other. The thread breaks only when the needle vibrates on the left.
Thanks. I will put something together for the future, but each machine is slightly different in setting timings. The main thing is having the hook or looper passing through the scarf of the needle right in the middle.
Just replaced the cloth belt in my Singer 320 with a new rubber belt. Machine runs beautiful, and seems to be a little quieter. Need to put one on my Singer 319 as well, but the 319/320 belts are on nationwide backorder. I was very lucky to find one at Jon's Sewing Machines in New York... @@derekdoeschannel
My stomach keeps breaking off. If the stitch gap widens, the upper chamber breaks. Is the embroidery thread the problem or is the sewing machine the problem. Do you know the solution?
@@derekdoeschannel I also replaced the hook and timed it correctly. After that... I tested it with a new needle and a new thread. If the tension is loose, the stitched thread will come up, so I don't think I can weaken the tension much more.
Where is the thread breaking? It might show what's wrong. Make sure also the thread has a smooth travel to the machine and isn't being binded along the way?
@@derekdoeschannel The location where the thread breaks appears to be at the top of the fabric. It feels like something is caught when I move back and forth from underneath to left and right. It may be because the upper thread is not being pulled from the bottom. Can I take a video and send it to you by email?
Could you please tell me how to adjust the timing of the needle bar? Even though I got the timing right, I can't hang the thread. There are times when you can hang the thread, and times when you can’t.
Hi, each machine is different but overall you'll want the hook to hit the scarf of the needle on the upswing as close as you can get it. You'll have to disengage the hook and move the needle till it's just right then tighten the hook back up. Most instruction manuals on Singers have a section in the back that shows you the steps. Hope that helps.
Can you help me solve the problem I am inquiring about? I don't think the issues I asked about previously have been resolved yet. I think this will probably answer other people's questions as well. One problem is found when moving back and forth from side to side, with the longest stitch width vibrating. When the thread is pulled upward, it may not come up quickly enough, causing the fabric underneath to pucker. What do you think is the cause of the fabric puckering problem? Is there any solution you know? (First of all, the cause I think is that there is a rotating part on the hook side. There is a fixing part there, but is the problem caused by fixing that part and not moving it back and forth about 1mm to the left and right? This part does not move and is fixed. If so, the thread will bunch up in this area. Or will the thread not rise well? So, when sewing with a long stitch, the thread is pulled upward and the fabric underneath is also pulled upward, causing the fabric to pucker? First of all, Please tell me what you think is the cause. I haven't solved this yet.)
hello. Has the hook for the 107w102 you used been replaced with a new one? Or is it a previously used hook? if so... I tested what I had. First of all, there is a slight gap between the hook and needle eye. So the thread cannot be completely pulled out. In this case, if you tighten the tension, sewing will not work. Sewing is possible only when the tension wool is loosened. Or, sewing only works when you remove the thread guide connected to the needle bar. In this case, the tension is not correct and the sewing thread becomes loose. Are you also in the same situation?
I don't know the history of the hook, but I did adjust it's timing per another youtube video. Yours might need a little nudge also as it sounds like it.
@@derekdoeschannel Are you saying to knock the shaft of the gear on the hook side to the right and remove it? If I hit it with something like a hammer, does it move to the right? Because I don't know the structure well. It looks like there is a gap of about 1mm between the hook and the gear shaft. If you push the gear shaft about 1mm to the right, it seems like the hook will be able to pass the scarf over the eye of the needle. What if you could move the gear shaft to the right.....
@@derekdoeschannel The part number on the shaft is part 210537. The total part number is 210621. If you screw the gear wheel to 210537, it will rotate. This can be done by slightly sliding part 210537 to the right. Can this part be moved sideways? Or can you just slide the entire part 210621 to the right (outward)? You may need to replace the hook when the end of the hook is worn. If possible with the above method, there is no need to replace the hook. (Maybe another UA-cam instructor said this?)
@@derekdoeschannel no. There is no instruction on how to do this in the user manual. Does the user manual you found tell you how to set it to 15mm or higher? Did you confirm it before speaking?
This is really fantastic, please I have gritzner automatic de luxe sewing machine and no one in my area seems to know how to fix the timing belt, please can you help me out with a tutorial , thanks.
Derek thank you for sharing your video. I have not done this myself Still. looking for belt. I have heard that the belt put can be soaked in water before being put on the machine..... I wish someone would start making this belt in rubber.
@@carolynbagnell5074 I don't think soaking a rubber belt would help as opposed to a cloth belt. But soapy water around where you're sliding it on should help and then when it drys it won't be slick.
Derek thank you again for the link to buy belt. I have this on my to-do list today... I am thinking I will "Dip" in water rather than "Soak". Soaking might be too much\ overstretch the belt\ take too long to dry.
Please please please help me timing machine belt is not moving in my machine , needle bar is not moving is well should I change is timing belt ? If I move it with hand it’s not moving .
Hi Derek, I am about to get a very old industrial SINGER sewing machine 51W54 model that has its timing belt broken. Today I had amazing lucky because I found an used one in very good condition with the right part number, which is the actual #234003, very happy !!, so now I must install it, and you as an expert could give me your opinion on this idea to copy the machine pullies body to do a new ones, but with differents teeth size and path in order to use a common belt that you can find in any belt store. This is because the original timing belt is out of stock since 15 years, I mean is not longer available at all. I other words, I would like to be prepare when this used timing belt that I just got will broke again. Your expert opinion will be very welcome. Thanks !!
So you want to use the belt from the parts machine on the machine you have? I don't understand making new pulleys / teeth though? You want to make new pulleys to fit another belt? I guess you could, but before you do that maybe another machine class would fit in it with another belt?
I buy my leather belts in rolls of 100 feet. But you can find smaller lengths on eBay and such. You’ll need to order from a sewing parts store for the 100 foot lengths.
Hi, I have another question. There are two tension assemblies, right? The part with the two tension trays on top. Is the tension adjustable in that part? When I pull that part by hand, it is loose. When I let go, the tension increases. That is why the thread does not come out well in that part when I sew. I wonder if your embroidery machine is like that. Is it possible to adjust that part loosely? (My question is not about the tension assembly on the bottom.)
Hi, you're talking about the 114w103? It should have an actual tension knob and discs on the bottom to adjust it. Plus, you need to make sure it has some travel under the machine through eyelets and not just from the spool to the tension.
@@ddiuni9964 Hi, I don't currently have a 107w102 to take pictures of to show you. Download the manual and follow the threading guide Singer suggests and make sure it matches what you're doing on your machine.
How did you get the cylindrical parts out? It was really hard when I took it out before. The cylindrical parts didn't come out enough to bend the shaft.
@@derekdoeschannel So did you remove it with just wd40 and oil? If it still doesn't come out, does that mean you can pull it out by applying heat to the gap where the cylindrical part is inserted? I didn't apply heat. At that time, no matter how much I put in the oil and hit it with a hammer, it wouldn't come out. And even with a hammer on the hives, the gap was so narrow that I couldn't do anything about it.
@@derekdoeschannel It would be nice to have a tool to remove it easily. Did you purchase a thick leather timing belt and insert it between the existing iron rings?
@@derekdoeschannel I watched your video again. In order to remove the cylinder, you have to pry it out with a small hammer, but there is one problem. There are two screws in the wheel that attaches the timing belt, but it is very difficult if the screws inside do not come out. When I previously replaced the 47w70 timing belt, it was very difficult because the screw inside did not come out. The screw inside was in the shaft groove. With very, very, very hard work, I was able to just turn it and pull it out. I didn't do this alone. One person hit the screwdriver with a hammer and the other person turned the screwdriver. At some point, the bolt rotates. In this way, if you could move this part to the side like you did, you could easily remove it with a small hammer. When I took out the cylindrical part first, the shaft bent, so I managed to restore it to its original state. Even though the bent end of the shaft could not be restored, it was still usable. It was really difficult. How do I get a timing belt?
It is automatically adjusted on the back and is skewed to the left of the acupuncture hole when the needle passes through the needle plate. So the needle can't pass through the needle hole. Can you tell me what's wrong. Or even if you fix it at maximum stitch intervals on the back, it's the same. The needle's stand is skewed back and forth to the left of the needle plate hole. So i have to move the sleeping board to the left end. Which part is the problem?
@@derekdoeschannel That's not it. I was talking about left and right vibration. The position of the hole in the needle plate must be moved. The needle is not bent. Needle plate location: When aligned at the right end -> When the needle oscillates to the left, it does not pass through the hole. Needle plate position: When aligned at the left end -> Needle passes normally I want to know the cause of this.
@@derekdoeschannel There are no places that sell belts anymore, right? Well, if the timing belt thread breaks like you did, there is one solution. I think you can just connect the knot with a sewing machine 47w70, etc. and re-thread it.
@@derekdoeschannel I have the instructions for my machine ,watched your video and another ,which found very helpful ,have new belt arriving anyday ,repair chap said send to a dump 😡 ,just bit upset when can be changed
@@derekdoeschannel oh I hope we will ,bobbin turns when I turn the bottom cog ,so I know it's not damaged ,owned it 23 years ,used it alot for repairing rugs
日本では、
米国の古い洋服を再現し、販売しよう、という会社が多数あります。
製品として優れているために、一定数の愛好家がいるのですね。
私はそれらのものが好きで、愛用しているのですが、
縫製機もこれらの古い米国製の物を入手、修理し、使用しているようです。
しかし、その縫製機自体を紹介する動画はほぼありません。
言語は殆ど理解できませんが、
古い機械ながら、頑丈かつ正確に動きそうなメカニズムが素晴らしい。
非常に興味深い動画で、
楽しめました。
ありがとうございます。
Thank you so much. I agree on the clothes and the machines. I've made a few videos on the machines I own and I'll try to make more as I find them.
It was solved by adjusting the position of the hook shaft bushing because the needle bar and the hook end collided. Then, the thread breaks only when the needle bar is at the left end.
The needle and hook do not bump into each other.
The upper chamber rotates around the bobbin case and seems to break when the thread passes through the end of the hook.
The upper chamber does not come out as the needle stick goes to the left end.
Do you happen to know why?
How about your sewing machine 107w102?
I don't know why. Sorry. And I'd check mine, but I sold it a while ago and don't have one to check for you.
@@derekdoeschannel You sold the product...
The thread does not break when the needle bar is in the center or on the right. It is difficult to figure out exactly why the thread breaks only when the needle bar is on the left.
Because of this reason, I cannot embroider with a long amplitude.
@@ddiuni9964 how is the hook hitting the needle on the left side? It might need a professional look.
@@derekdoeschannel Even if the needle bar is placed on the left end, the gap between the needle and the hook tip is far apart. When the needle bar is in the center, the timing is right and the needle eye and the hook tip pass without hitting each other.
The thread breaks only when the needle vibrates on the left.
Thanks, I need to do this on two old 1950's Singers. Can you do another video on how to set the timing? Thank you!
Thanks. I will put something together for the future, but each machine is slightly different in setting timings. The main thing is having the hook or looper passing through the scarf of the needle right in the middle.
Just replaced the cloth belt in my Singer 320 with a new rubber belt. Machine runs beautiful, and seems to be a little quieter. Need to put one on my Singer 319 as well, but the 319/320 belts are on nationwide backorder. I was very lucky to find one at Jon's Sewing Machines in New York... @@derekdoeschannel
Why are timing belts for Singer 306 and 319 so hard to get?
I just did a search and found some. Do a google search for them. They’re not cheap though
My stomach keeps breaking off.
If the stitch gap widens, the upper chamber breaks.
Is the embroidery thread the problem or is the sewing machine the problem.
Do you know the solution?
Might be a combo. Is your needle new? Breaking thread sounds like too much tension. Or old thread.
@@derekdoeschannel I also replaced the hook and timed it correctly.
After that...
I tested it with a new needle and a new thread.
If the tension is loose, the stitched thread will come up, so I don't think I can weaken the tension much more.
Where is the thread breaking? It might show what's wrong. Make sure also the thread has a smooth travel to the machine and isn't being binded along the way?
@@derekdoeschannel The location where the thread breaks appears to be at the top of the fabric.
It feels like something is caught when I move back and forth from underneath to left and right.
It may be because the upper thread is not being pulled from the bottom.
Can I take a video and send it to you by email?
You can but I'm not an expert. I had trouble getting my 107w102 to sew for quite a while. does the lever move smoothly when it's not threaded up?
Could you please tell me how to adjust the timing of the needle bar?
Even though I got the timing right, I can't hang the thread.
There are times when you can hang the thread, and times when you can’t.
Hi, each machine is different but overall you'll want the hook to hit the scarf of the needle on the upswing as close as you can get it. You'll have to disengage the hook and move the needle till it's just right then tighten the hook back up. Most instruction manuals on Singers have a section in the back that shows you the steps. Hope that helps.
Can you help me solve the problem I am inquiring about? I don't think the issues I asked about previously have been resolved yet. I think this will probably answer other people's questions as well.
One problem is found when moving back and forth from side to side, with the longest stitch width vibrating. When the thread is pulled upward, it may not come up quickly enough, causing the fabric underneath to pucker. What do you think is the cause of the fabric puckering problem? Is there any solution you know? (First of all, the cause I think is that there is a rotating part on the hook side. There is a fixing part there, but is the problem caused by fixing that part and not moving it back and forth about 1mm to the left and right? This part does not move and is fixed. If so, the thread will bunch up in this area. Or will the thread not rise well? So, when sewing with a long stitch, the thread is pulled upward and the fabric underneath is also pulled upward, causing the fabric to pucker? First of all, Please tell me what you think is the cause. I haven't solved this yet.)
I think this is past my point of expertise.
Where is the tape sold enough to install it in the sewing machine Sinjar No. 307 G2
hello.
Has the hook for the 107w102 you used been replaced with a new one?
Or is it a previously used hook? if so...
I tested what I had. First of all, there is a slight gap between the hook and needle eye. So the thread cannot be completely pulled out. In this case, if you tighten the tension, sewing will not work. Sewing is possible only when the tension wool is loosened. Or, sewing only works when you remove the thread guide connected to the needle bar. In this case, the tension is not correct and the sewing thread becomes loose. Are you also in the same situation?
I don't know the history of the hook, but I did adjust it's timing per another youtube video. Yours might need a little nudge also as it sounds like it.
@@derekdoeschannel Are you saying to knock the shaft of the gear on the hook side to the right and remove it? If I hit it with something like a hammer, does it move to the right? Because I don't know the structure well.
It looks like there is a gap of about 1mm between the hook and the gear shaft. If you push the gear shaft about 1mm to the right, it seems like the hook will be able to pass the scarf over the eye of the needle.
What if you could move the gear shaft to the right.....
@@derekdoeschannel The part number on the shaft is part 210537.
The total part number is 210621. If you screw the gear wheel to 210537, it will rotate. This can be done by slightly sliding part 210537 to the right.
Can this part be moved sideways?
Or can you just slide the entire part 210621 to the right (outward)?
You may need to replace the hook when the end of the hook is worn. If possible with the above method, there is no need to replace the hook. (Maybe another UA-cam instructor said this?)
@@ddiuni9964 I’d have to revisit to know for sure. I think I watched the same guy
Well done,good job,saved yourself money!
Thanks! Just lots of tinkering to get it on. Well worth it in the end.
Do you not know how to set the stitch width of singer 107w102 to 15mm?
Just download the manual online and it should show you how.
@@derekdoeschannel no. There is no instruction on how to do this in the user manual.
Does the user manual you found tell you how to set it to 15mm or higher? Did you confirm it before speaking?
This is really fantastic, please I have gritzner automatic de luxe sewing machine and no one in my area seems to know how to fix the timing belt, please can you help me out with a tutorial , thanks.
Hi, I don't have that machine to make anything. I'm not familiar with that model unfortunately.
@@derekdoeschannel alright, thank you so much.
Derek thank you for sharing your video. I have not done this myself Still. looking for belt. I have heard that the belt put can be soaked in water before being put on the machine..... I wish someone would start making this belt in rubber.
If you can soak it that would save so much time and frustration! And yes a rubber belt would solve it all.
Do I soak rubber belt for 211 before putting it on in water ?
@@carolynbagnell5074 I don't think soaking a rubber belt would help as opposed to a cloth belt. But soapy water around where you're sliding it on should help and then when it drys it won't be slick.
Derek thank you again for the link to buy belt. I have this on my to-do list today... I am thinking I will "Dip" in water rather than "Soak". Soaking might be too much\ overstretch the belt\ take too long to dry.
Please please please help me timing machine belt is not moving in my machine , needle bar is not moving is well should I change is timing belt ? If I move it with hand it’s not moving .
Is this a new to you machine? Did it turn before? If new to you, it might just need cleaned and oiled really bad.
Hi Derek, I am about to get a very old industrial SINGER sewing machine 51W54 model that has its timing belt broken. Today I had amazing lucky because I found an used one in very good condition with the right part number, which is the actual #234003, very happy !!, so now I must install it, and you as an expert could give me your opinion on this idea to copy the machine pullies body to do a new ones, but with differents teeth size and path in order to use a common belt that you can find in any belt store. This is because the original timing belt is out of stock since 15 years, I mean is not longer available at all. I other words, I would like to be prepare when this used timing belt that I just got will broke again. Your expert opinion will be very welcome. Thanks !!
So you want to use the belt from the parts machine on the machine you have? I don't understand making new pulleys / teeth though? You want to make new pulleys to fit another belt? I guess you could, but before you do that maybe another machine class would fit in it with another belt?
Have you ever worked on a model 776 manufactured by Jenome for Allied National?
Hi, I haven't. I just usually work on old vintage machines.
where did you get that belt . I have a 319n singer .
and I can't find one . they just have rubber ones
I buy my leather belts in rolls of 100 feet. But you can find smaller lengths on eBay and such. You’ll need to order from a sewing parts store for the 100 foot lengths.
Hi, I have another question.
There are two tension assemblies, right?
The part with the two tension trays on top.
Is the tension adjustable in that part?
When I pull that part by hand, it is loose. When I let go, the tension increases. That is why the thread does not come out well in that part when I sew.
I wonder if your embroidery machine is like that. Is it possible to adjust that part loosely?
(My question is not about the tension assembly on the bottom.)
Hi, you're talking about the 114w103? It should have an actual tension knob and discs on the bottom to adjust it. Plus, you need to make sure it has some travel under the machine through eyelets and not just from the spool to the tension.
@@derekdoeschannel singer 107w102
@@ddiuni9964 try threading through the 3 hole thread guild a different way. Either wrap it around or up and down.
@@derekdoeschannel Can you please email me?
I don't understand what you just wrote.
It would be helpful if you could explain it with pictures.
@@ddiuni9964 Hi, I don't currently have a 107w102 to take pictures of to show you. Download the manual and follow the threading guide Singer suggests and make sure it matches what you're doing on your machine.
How did you get the cylindrical parts out?
It was really hard when I took it out before. The cylindrical parts didn't come out enough to bend the shaft.
It just takes a lot of time if it’s really stuck. Try wd40 or oil, then if still stuck you can use heat . It won’t just pop out, it’s a tight fit.
@@derekdoeschannel So did you remove it with just wd40 and oil?
If it still doesn't come out, does that mean you can pull it out by applying heat to the gap where the cylindrical part is inserted?
I didn't apply heat. At that time, no matter how much I put in the oil and hit it with a hammer, it wouldn't come out. And even with a hammer on the hives, the gap was so narrow that I couldn't do anything about it.
@@ddiuni9964 Use heat as your last resort. Although you'll probably have to replace the part as it will become destroyed in the process.
@@derekdoeschannel It would be nice to have a tool to remove it easily.
Did you purchase a thick leather timing belt and insert it between the existing iron rings?
@@derekdoeschannel I watched your video again.
In order to remove the cylinder, you have to pry it out with a small hammer, but there is one problem.
There are two screws in the wheel that attaches the timing belt, but it is very difficult if the screws inside do not come out.
When I previously replaced the 47w70 timing belt, it was very difficult because the screw inside did not come out.
The screw inside was in the shaft groove.
With very, very, very hard work, I was able to just turn it and pull it out. I didn't do this alone. One person hit the screwdriver with a hammer and the other person turned the screwdriver. At some point, the bolt rotates.
In this way, if you could move this part to the side like you did, you could easily remove it with a small hammer. When I took out the cylindrical part first, the shaft bent, so I managed to restore it to its original state. Even though the bent end of the shaft could not be restored, it was still usable.
It was really difficult. How do I get a timing belt?
It is automatically adjusted on the back and is skewed to the left of the acupuncture hole when the needle passes through the needle plate.
So the needle can't pass through the needle hole.
Can you tell me what's wrong.
Or even if you fix it at maximum stitch intervals on the back, it's the same. The needle's stand is skewed back and forth to the left of the needle plate hole.
So i have to move the sleeping board to the left end.
Which part is the problem?
make sure your needle bar isn't bent or the needle. Might be as simple as that.
@@derekdoeschannel That's not it.
I was talking about left and right vibration.
The position of the hole in the needle plate must be moved.
The needle is not bent.
Needle plate location: When aligned at the right end -> When the needle oscillates to the left, it does not pass through the hole.
Needle plate position: When aligned at the left end -> Needle passes normally
I want to know the cause of this.
@@ddiuni9964 try just sliding the plate left or right. Also make sure the round disc with the cutout is correct so the needle passes through each end.
@@derekdoeschannel There are no places that sell belts anymore, right?
Well, if the timing belt thread breaks like you did, there is one solution.
I think you can just connect the knot with a sewing machine 47w70, etc. and re-thread it.
@@ddiuni9964 you can find the belting at sewing shops but you’ll need to buy 100 feet of it
Sir please send me video porte pls107 label sewers machine timing belt
Hi, what exactly do you want?
ومن أين تباع هذا الشريط
I did a google search for it
Is changing 211g same as this ?
Hi it will be similar, but the pulley wheel is a different design. Have you done a search on the manual for this machine?
@@derekdoeschannel I have the instructions for my machine ,watched your video and another ,which found very helpful ,have new belt arriving anyday ,repair chap said send to a dump 😡 ,just bit upset when can be changed
@@carolynbagnell5074 I’m 100% with you. If it can be fixed, fix it.
@@derekdoeschannel oh I hope we will ,bobbin turns when I turn the bottom cog ,so I know it's not damaged ,owned it 23 years ,used it alot for repairing rugs
How would you remove a triangle shaped screw from balance wheel on singer 211g
I’ve never worked on one. I’m not sure I’ll have to see what it looks like. Is it an Allen screw?
@@derekdoeschannel it's a triangle hole
Would a brass pipe work ? To remove the bushel
That should work also. Just watch it to make sure it doesn't hurt it.@@carolynbagnell5074
Good news dad changed belt on my singer 211g .thanks for useful video .
Have you got one for doing timing ?
Where do you get a dowel ?
Hi, any hardware store would carry them or Home Center like Lowe’s.
Please come change my singers belt
كفية تركيب هذا في مشينة سنجار رقم 307 g2
Similar but you’ll need to thread the belt up the bottom