As a machinist of over 35 years now (good Lord where does time go!) I will say that the micrometer stand you have is a great addition to anyone who plans on using a micrometer more than once or twice. Will make life much easier. Just my 2 cents worth. God bless and Merry Christmas to you guys.
I’ve mix matched bearing sizes on different journal’s to get everything as close as possible. Just because it says it’s a standard bearing doesn’t mean it is. That’s where documentation of everything you do is so important. So you can document every single bearing clearance on the mains and rods. I like it in the 2-3- 2.5 thousands range and a little more on race applications, using nitrous, turbo, ect. Most guys with flat tappet cams that I know are running shell Rotella so a little on the loose end is compensating by the higher viscosity oil. So oil pressure isn’t an issue with the larger clearance. I like that this channel has mature people that can actually have civil conversations and gain knowledge from eachother. Most UA-cam channels are full of nonsense in the comments section.
I've ran a dozen different hotrod/racing oils over the years and I've done hundreds and hundreds of oil analysis on muscle cars, hotrods, circle track cars, drag cars etc and i wouldn't advise running a modern diesel oil in your classic cars. The newer, modern diesel oils such as Rotella have more detergents than anti wear additives which is not what your flat tappet cam needs and there's not a cam manufacturer in existence that recommends for you to run a modern diesel oil in your hotrod. The modern Rotella has about half of the zddp and phosphorus that it used to have. The last oil sample that i sent in for a customer that insisted he was going to run Rotella in his fresh 383 sbc with a flat tappet had less than 1200 ppm of zddp and phosphorus and 2000+ ppm calcium which is ALOT of detergent for a gasoline engine. I've torn down engines with identical run time and there has always been more wear on the cam and lifters when guys have ran nothing but Rotella compared to an engine that had ran an oil formulated for hotrods/racing applications like Driven Gp1, Lucas Hotrod, Valvoline vr1 etc.
They go from T-4 for bearings to T-6 after break in. I’ve seen a lot of guys use Valvoline VR1 as well. I’ve heard good things about the driven oil, but I’ve never tried it.
You have packed a dense and well-explained video here into 35 mins. Excellent resource! The trivia about the blueprint is something that brings charm to the technicals!
I'm on my third real engine build and recently went and got micrometers and a dial bore gauge. You are so right about how well I can now verify my parts. For those who have not yet bought micrometers I have a suggestion. Don't bother with the single micrometer with exchangeable anvils. The anvils are too easy to get out of adjustment which ends up taking a long time to correct. Also, when I bought micrometers I made sure to get micrometers with an adjustment stop. The stop is the little arm just near where the adjustment value is read. When you get your "mic" all set up, you can make it stay set when using the stop. I found the stop to be a major improvement over just measuring. Once you have the value locked you can then transfer your reading to your dial bore gauge correctly. Without the lock things get tricky and hard to repeat. I also realized while watching that my dial bore gauge is graduated like Allen's. Each mark on the bore gauge is half a thousandth. This had me fooled at first. Now I am more confident in my numbers. I bought the Shar's mic set for $145, not fancy, but better than the super basic no-name stuff.
You made a great point on being an assembler and blue printing. I'm definitely the assembler which is why this episode is particularly important knowledge to know that making the proper measurements will ensure a healthy build. Watching your videos has helped me see my failures 😂😂 nice series. 🏁🏁🏁
I blueprint ALL of my engines now and have my own spreadsheet for all clearances, torque specs and any modifications. I can pull up those motors specs anytime, if an issue comes up. If I am measuring ANYTHING, I record it on my spreadsheet. Thanks for taking the time to educate all of us sir!
Great video. 19:42 Thank you for saying that. I just recently explained that to someone who was using it to measure the overall diameter of the bores. While that can be done with a dial bore gauge, a set of snap gauges is far more accurate.
Nice presentation AG! Everything was clearly explained! Looking forward to your next video! I can only imagine how much time it takes to fill out your spread sheets
Once again, Alan, you provided great useful information. Specific tolerances aside, much can be applied to any make or model engine. Thank you. We older, seasoned guys, remember true paper "Blueprints" well. We who were schooled as engineers also remember the computer language, "Fortran."😮 When building street engines, I set the front main bearing clearance approx. .0005 tighter and the thrust .0005 looser than the remainder of the mains. Alan mentioned the larger surface of the thrust bearing and the need for greater clearance. The front bearings I set tighter due to the added load from the vector forces of the accessory drives. This does not usually apply to a race engine. In almost all cases, performance builds require looser clearances than stock.
If you're not early you're late, etc etc.......sayings from different times and people are so different today half of the time they don't even understand what you're saying when you say something like that.
Outstanding video and very informative. I learn something new with nearly every video I watch Allan, so thank you for your willingness to share your wisdom and experiences with those like myself, who are not experienced engine builders. My big take away from today's video was your comment regarding load on the thrust bearing when the clutch was depressed. It makes perfect sense but it's something I had never before considered. I've owned many manual transmission cars in my lifetime and I had never considered how starting the engine with the clutch pedal depressed, versus the transmission in neutral and the clutch released, potentially impacted wear on the thrust bearing. It's definitely something I'll remember in the future. Thanks again for another quality video.
Nothing looks as cool as those original blueprints....... I love looking at Old blueprints of engines or buildings or anything really. It just feels so technical and professional.
Thanks for all your valuable information. I'm a month or so away from my 1st engine teardown/diagnosis and hopefully rebuilt. I have a 1972 350 with weak oiling to the rockers. I'm hopefully it's just sludge from sitting (43k miles). 25psi hot oil pressure.
Thanks Joe. i suggest you perform the tear down slowly and methodically, documenting what you find and looking for causes of low oil pressure. BTW, 25psi at idle is ok. AG
Wow, what a learning-packed video. Thanks a bunch. Pretty soon I am going to have to scrounge up an old, used engine to rebuild. Who knew that watching a few UA-cam videos could be so expensive ;-)
Once again Alan, another awesome video you’re probably the best at explaining everything in detail I love this so much so much information I always look forward to your videos big small block Chevy fan, I might tackle trying to rebuild a 223 Ford Straight six that I use for spraying fence lines in a old Toro groundskeeper that I use for spraying fence lines in the summer yes I am a farmer in northern Illinois, so anything you put out is very helpful!! Hopefully it isn’t too cold up there yet I’m sure it is that will stay warm!!👍
Thanks for the nice comments Scott. Good luck with your Ford 6 project. The best practice rules apply to all engines. And yes, it is getting chilly up here. AG
I bought a book several years ago that was called how to blueprint an engine . I believe that was the name of it anyways it had a pre printed sheet of all the measurements you need to take and a place to write your clearances in. The only thing I had to learn was how to read the micrometers. Well several years and many engines I have all the gauges need but I still have problems because now I’m old and I have a hard time reading the very small print on my mics. You can never win…….
Really enjoy your videos ---- trying to pick up the Tips and Tricks you give ------- Have two comments and a question on an engine I am working on --------- First comment to a video on where you were putting on the timing cover ---- noticed you had the cover bolted to the block ---- then put the harmonic balancer on ------ I know there is clearance for the bolts through the cover --- few thousandths --- cover can move within ---- the balancer centers in the seal in the cover no clearances there---- leave the bolts loose --- slip on the balancer to center --- ITSELF --- then tighten done cover bolts -------------- Second comment ---- on the crankshaft endplay ---- you told what to do if the clearance was --- TOO --- tight ----- what does one do when you have --- TOO MUCH --- endplay? ----- The question for me is --- I'm just a Hobbyist --- I like Classic Old Cars ---- it's been 56 years since I had an engine machined for me ----- now ---- this engine has the interference --- press fit piston and wrist pin ----- Have you done a video on this ---- maybe the engines you work on are all slip fit ---- I try to do things myself ---- I need to find out first ---- How much of an interference fit there is between pin and the rod ---- there are ---"tempilstik" ---- that show what temperature you are at when heating up metal ----- Seen videos --- pressing the pins out and in --- videos heating rod up to slightly red ---- I think that is too hot at that point ---- that's about 1000 degrees at that point ------ Would like to know your thoughts about doing this? ---------- Thank You for Sharing your talent that you have for doing this ----- You give a Wealth of Information on building engines ---- I really like listening to you ----- notes galore ----- Hope you have a Good Weekend ---------- Rodney
Some good questions Rodney. First, the timing cover on a GEN 1 SBC is located by dowels in the block. This is different from the LS generation of engines that require a centering tool. I will try to show that in future videos. As for too much end play, with a new bearing, that will not happen, they are always on the tight side. if it is a used engine and the end play is due to the bearing, then changing the bearing is your only option. For the piston pins, if both the pins and rods are at the same temperature (room temperature) with floating rods, the fit will not be a problem. As for press fit rods, I let my machine shop do that, but there are videos on UA-cam how to do that. Thanks so much for your comments. Please let me know if this helps.AG
I really enjoy watching, and am still learning at age 54. What torque wrenches do you prefer? And, how do you get them calibrated? I miss assembling our race engines with my dad... Thank you. Clark from Omaha Ne
Thanks Clark. and hello Omaha. My 3/8" torque wrench is DEWALT. I also have a 1/4" and 1/2" wrench. They are very reliable if treated with care. i check them against each other from time to time. AG
You seem to be having better luck with thrust bearing clearance. I have had to adjust the last 4 or 5 I've done. I have a couple videos over at Hillbilly Garage if you want to see my struggle. Great information and as always thank you for investing the time to share your wisdom to help us grow as engine builders.
Also when you use just one shell at half a thou you can fit at the top or bottom half of the rod. Then adjust your SQUISH HEIGHT and C/R by half a thou.
I was in my late 20's and skipped measurements on just one rod journal on my 4 bolt main 400 chevy. Guess what it was a .0010 under and in 3 weeks it stacked a bearing and that snapped a rod. Luckily it did not damage my block. So soon I will be building a trail rider engine from said 400 four bolt main. Micrometers can cost alot but far less than a 400 chevy block.
Always good to have a refresher course! Thanks for that!! On the thrust bearing clearance, do you sand both front and rear faces equally or just the rear since the pressure is always pushing forward? Also on clutch cars many have a clutch switch similar to a neutral start switch to prevent the starter from engaging unless the clutch pedal is depressed.
Actually, i have only had to do that very seldom, but just one surface. Thanks for reminding me about the safety switch preventing starting unless the clutch is depressed. In that case, I guess you don't have much choice. AG
Another fine video, guys. I learned a thing or two. But the question I have is this: you said to check your manual for specs, what 'manual' should I look for for my engine? I'm not sure I trust things on the internet. Got any book or website recommendations? Mine is a Chevy 350 block too. A 639 casting (roller cam block). Should I assume it's manufactured to the same cylinder and crank specs as an 010 block? Thanks!
Thanks for the comment 100. The manual I was referring to is a reproduction of the original. I checked amazon and there is a variety of manuals available. If you search CT400, that engine is a race version of the ZZ6 which is the same block. You might also check GM PERFORMANCE. hope this helps. AG
@@goldsgarage8236 I guess you mean the books from Haynes and the how-to books by David Vizard and others. I suppose I just didn't consider any of those as manuals. But I'll keep looking. Thanks.
Great videos, i learn something with each one. A question i have is, if decking a block, small block chev for example, does intake fitment become an issue? This engine decked at 20 thousandths for example, or is there an amount once removed that it becomes an issue? If so, what is the remedy? 3 questions i guess.
Thanks for the question NDirt. .020" or even .030" does not create a problem. The gap at the China wall may be tighter, however most builders fill it with silicone anyway. If the heads are cut also, the assembly should be mocked up to check alignment. Hope this helps. AG
Mixing bearing shell halves of different clearances, won't that make the junction where the two bearing halves meet be of different heights? Such as if you ran your finger over the place where the shells mate, you will feel a step? This step could gouge the crankshaft journal?
Thanks for the question Robert. The bearing is wider at the junction to create the oil wedge, , so the crankshaft should never make contact there. Hope this helps.AG
@goldsgarage8236 Interesting, thanks. I learned something here. On researching this, some chamfer the bearing half with the smaller diameter so as not to have the step up(high spot) on the parting line of the bearings. But it looks like this is not necessary.
Yes Joe. Its always good to check manufactures specifications, however a general rule of thumb is .001" of clearance per inch of bearing. Most rod and main bearings are between 2-3" in diameter. AG
Can a factory cylinder bore be smaller than 4.00??? My manual says the tolerance can be 3.899 to 4.003 or something similar i don't recall exactly what it said but it had a value under 4" ...im wanting to swap out the dished factory pistons in a vortec block with aftermarket flat tops stamped as "STD" or standard diameter not overbore. Will these pistons "drop in" as they say?? Ive never done this before so im a bit intimidated 😢 thanks for any advice
From what I recall standard bore on a 350 SBC is 4.00”s. There’s a lot more to building an engine than just slapping a set of pistons in. An aftermarket set of heads with smaller chambers to up the compression and a camshaft will really wake that thing up. If you’re going to a carb I’d add a rpm air gap intake and a 650 quick fuel carb.
Thanks for the question Marcus. You will probably be OK, but I would suggest measuring the clearance, or have someone to do it for you in at least 1 cylinder. Piston tolerances are very tight, so if one is ok, the rest should be also. Hope this helps. AG
Hello Alan, I built a 383 last summer with a used crank, turned 10/20. The mains were in at 25 tenths and rods at 14 to 19 tenths and I buttoned it up. Got to thinking and ordered some .020X bearings which are 2 thou bigger. Can I pull the pan and put 1/2 of those bigger bearings on one side to get 24 to 29 tenths clearance or .0024 on the rods? I really don't want to pull this sbc apart, the new Enforcer heads are on too? Thanks!
Good question Roger. I think you should set the correct bearing clearance first, then use the correct oil viscosity to get the desired oil pressure. AG
As a machinist of over 35 years now (good Lord where does time go!) I will say that the micrometer stand you have is a great addition to anyone who plans on using a micrometer more than once or twice. Will make life much easier. Just my 2 cents worth. God bless and Merry Christmas to you guys.
Thanks for watching and commenting MJ, and Merry Christmas to you as well.AG
I’ve mix matched bearing sizes on different journal’s to get everything as close as possible. Just because it says it’s a standard bearing doesn’t mean it is. That’s where documentation of everything you do is so important.
So you can document every single bearing clearance on the mains and rods.
I like it in the 2-3- 2.5 thousands range and a little more on race applications, using nitrous, turbo, ect.
Most guys with flat tappet cams that I know are running shell Rotella so a little on the loose end is compensating by the higher viscosity oil. So oil pressure isn’t an issue with the larger clearance.
I like that this channel has mature people that can actually have civil conversations and gain knowledge from eachother. Most UA-cam channels are full of nonsense in the comments section.
Nice compliment. Thanks for watching and commenting CULT.AG
I've ran a dozen different hotrod/racing oils over the years and I've done hundreds and hundreds of oil analysis on muscle cars, hotrods, circle track cars, drag cars etc and i wouldn't advise running a modern diesel oil in your classic cars. The newer, modern diesel oils such as Rotella have more detergents than anti wear additives which is not what your flat tappet cam needs and there's not a cam manufacturer in existence that recommends for you to run a modern diesel oil in your hotrod. The modern Rotella has about half of the zddp and phosphorus that it used to have. The last oil sample that i sent in for a customer that insisted he was going to run Rotella in his fresh 383 sbc with a flat tappet had less than 1200 ppm of zddp and phosphorus and 2000+ ppm calcium which is ALOT of detergent for a gasoline engine. I've torn down engines with identical run time and there has always been more wear on the cam and lifters when guys have ran nothing but Rotella compared to an engine that had ran an oil formulated for hotrods/racing applications like Driven Gp1, Lucas Hotrod, Valvoline vr1 etc.
They go from T-4 for bearings to T-6 after break in. I’ve seen a lot of guys use Valvoline VR1 as well. I’ve heard good things about the driven oil, but I’ve never tried it.
@CULT539 I agree 💯. Been doin it for a long time and it never comes back to bite you. Thanks AG!
You have packed a dense and well-explained video here into 35 mins. Excellent resource! The trivia about the blueprint is something that brings charm to the technicals!
Nice compliment, thanks for watching William.AG
I'm on my third real engine build and recently went and got micrometers and a dial bore gauge. You are so right about how well I can now verify my parts. For those who have not yet bought micrometers I have a suggestion. Don't bother with the single micrometer with exchangeable anvils. The anvils are too easy to get out of adjustment which ends up taking a long time to correct. Also, when I bought micrometers I made sure to get micrometers with an adjustment stop. The stop is the little arm just near where the adjustment value is read. When you get your "mic" all set up, you can make it stay set when using the stop. I found the stop to be a major improvement over just measuring. Once you have the value locked you can then transfer your reading to your dial bore gauge correctly. Without the lock things get tricky and hard to repeat. I also realized while watching that my dial bore gauge is graduated like Allen's. Each mark on the bore gauge is half a thousandth. This had me fooled at first. Now I am more confident in my numbers. I bought the Shar's mic set for $145, not fancy, but better than the super basic no-name stuff.
It is good to hear your experience with the measuring tools. Thanks for sharing.AG
You made a great point on being an assembler and blue printing. I'm definitely the assembler which is why this episode is particularly important knowledge to know that making the proper measurements will ensure a healthy build. Watching your videos has helped me see my failures 😂😂 nice series. 🏁🏁🏁
thanks for commenting Steelcity, that is why we do this, so I'm glad it was helpful.AG
Great explanation. Your yrs of experience is a testament to your knowledge.
Nice compliment, thanks Darren.AG
I blueprint ALL of my engines now and have my own spreadsheet for all clearances, torque specs and any modifications. I can pull up those motors specs anytime, if an issue comes up. If I am measuring ANYTHING, I record it on my spreadsheet.
Thanks for taking the time to educate all of us sir!
Good to hear Marty. It does take time and attention, but it is worth it.AG
Great video.
19:42 Thank you for saying that. I just recently explained that to someone who was using it to measure the overall diameter of the bores. While that can be done with a dial bore gauge, a set of snap gauges is far more accurate.
Thanks for contributing to my channel Carl. AG
Nice presentation AG! Everything was clearly explained! Looking forward to your next video!
I can only imagine how much time it takes to fill out your spread sheets
Thanks for your comments Kevin. AG
Once again, Alan, you provided great useful information. Specific tolerances aside, much can be applied to any make or model engine. Thank you. We older, seasoned guys, remember true paper "Blueprints" well. We who were schooled as engineers also remember the computer language, "Fortran."😮 When building street engines, I set the front main bearing clearance approx. .0005 tighter and the thrust .0005 looser than the remainder of the mains. Alan mentioned the larger surface of the thrust bearing and the need for greater clearance. The front bearings I set tighter due to the added load from the vector forces of the accessory drives. This does not usually apply to a race engine. In almost all cases, performance builds require looser clearances than stock.
Great comments Bill, nice to hear from someone from my cohort group.AG
During my machinist years, there was a saying around the shop... "No job is started until the paperwork is finished". Good times, Alan!!
Good motto and good business practice as well, thanks for commenting Sunspot.AG
As a machinist for medical implants paperwork is as important as the part. Traceability is extremely important.
Sounds like the oilfield these days as well
@mj_slender6717 Same falls trun in aerospace. Not like aircraft can pull over to that cloud, like George Jetson!!
If you're not early you're late, etc etc.......sayings from different times and people are so different today half of the time they don't even understand what you're saying when you say something like that.
Outstanding video and very informative. I learn something new with nearly every video I watch Allan, so thank you for your willingness to share your wisdom and experiences with those like myself, who are not experienced engine builders. My big take away from today's video was your comment regarding load on the thrust bearing when the clutch was depressed. It makes perfect sense but it's something I had never before considered. I've owned many manual transmission cars in my lifetime and I had never considered how starting the engine with the clutch pedal depressed, versus the transmission in neutral and the clutch released, potentially impacted wear on the thrust bearing. It's definitely something I'll remember in the future. Thanks again for another quality video.
Good to hear from you Todd, i am following your progress on the GTO. AG
@@goldsgarage8236 Hopefully after Christmas I'll be able to pick up the pace on the GTO's reassembly.
Nothing looks as cool as those original blueprints....... I love looking at Old blueprints of engines or buildings or anything really. It just feels so technical and professional.
Thanks Tommy, we had a vault the size of a small house full of them. Now all that information is stored on a computer drive. AG
Thanks for all your valuable information. I'm a month or so away from my 1st engine teardown/diagnosis and hopefully rebuilt. I have a 1972 350 with weak oiling to the rockers. I'm hopefully it's just sludge from sitting (43k miles). 25psi hot oil pressure.
Thanks Joe. i suggest you perform the tear down slowly and methodically, documenting what you find and looking for causes of low oil pressure. BTW, 25psi at idle is ok. AG
Wow, what a learning-packed video. Thanks a bunch. Pretty soon I am going to have to scrounge up an old, used engine to rebuild. Who knew that watching a few UA-cam videos could be so expensive ;-)
Thanks for the nice comments Dave. Sounds like you have the bug to do a project. Good luck! AG
it hurts my back watching a tall dude such as yourself work with that short engine stand. but seriously, love your video's.
Thanks for watching and commenting Hot Rod. i never thought of that, but would probably be nicer if it was higher. AG
Once again Alan, another awesome video you’re probably the best at explaining everything in detail I love this so much so much information I always look forward to your videos big small block Chevy fan, I might tackle trying to rebuild a 223 Ford Straight six that I use for spraying fence lines in a old Toro groundskeeper that I use for spraying fence lines in the summer yes I am a farmer in northern Illinois, so anything you put out is very helpful!! Hopefully it isn’t too cold up there yet I’m sure it is that will stay warm!!👍
Thanks for the nice comments Scott. Good luck with your Ford 6 project. The best practice rules apply to all engines. And yes, it is getting chilly up here. AG
I bought a book several years ago that was called how to blueprint an engine . I believe that was the name of it anyways it had a pre printed sheet of all the measurements you need to take and a place to write your clearances in. The only thing I had to learn was how to read the micrometers. Well several years and many engines I have all the gauges need but I still have problems because now I’m old and I have a hard time reading the very small print on my mics. You can never win…….
Sorry to hear Charger. Have you tied using a magnifying glass? Thanks for watching and commenting. AG
Really enjoy your videos ---- trying to pick up the Tips and Tricks you give ------- Have two comments and a question on an engine I am working on --------- First comment to a video on where you were putting on the timing cover ---- noticed you had the cover bolted to the block ---- then put the harmonic balancer on ------ I know there is clearance for the bolts through the cover --- few thousandths --- cover can move within ---- the balancer centers in the seal in the cover no clearances there---- leave the bolts loose --- slip on the balancer to center --- ITSELF --- then tighten done cover bolts -------------- Second comment ---- on the crankshaft endplay ---- you told what to do if the clearance was --- TOO --- tight ----- what does one do when you have --- TOO MUCH --- endplay? ----- The question for me is --- I'm just a Hobbyist --- I like Classic Old Cars ---- it's been 56 years since I had an engine machined for me ----- now ---- this engine has the interference --- press fit piston and wrist pin ----- Have you done a video on this ---- maybe the engines you work on are all slip fit ---- I try to do things myself ---- I need to find out first ---- How much of an interference fit there is between pin and the rod ---- there are ---"tempilstik" ---- that show what temperature you are at when heating up metal ----- Seen videos --- pressing the pins out and in --- videos heating rod up to slightly red ---- I think that is too hot at that point ---- that's about 1000 degrees at that point ------ Would like to know your thoughts about doing this? ---------- Thank You for Sharing your talent that you have for doing this ----- You give a Wealth of Information on building engines ---- I really like listening to you ----- notes galore ----- Hope you have a Good Weekend ---------- Rodney
Some good questions Rodney. First, the timing cover on a GEN 1 SBC is located by dowels in the block. This is different from the LS generation of engines that require a centering tool. I will try to show that in future videos.
As for too much end play, with a new bearing, that will not happen, they are always on the tight side. if it is a used engine and the end play is due to the bearing, then changing the bearing is your only option.
For the piston pins, if both the pins and rods are at the same temperature (room temperature) with floating rods, the fit will not be a problem. As for press fit rods, I let my machine shop do that, but there are videos on UA-cam how to do that.
Thanks so much for your comments. Please let me know if this helps.AG
I really enjoy watching, and am still learning at age 54. What torque wrenches do you prefer? And, how do you get them calibrated?
I miss assembling our race engines with my dad... Thank you. Clark from Omaha Ne
Thanks Clark. and hello Omaha. My 3/8" torque wrench is DEWALT. I also have a 1/4" and 1/2" wrench. They are very reliable if treated with care. i check them against each other from time to time. AG
Excellent video AG!!
Love your channel!!👍👍👍
Thanks Steve, I always enjoy your comments.AG
You seem to be having better luck with thrust bearing clearance. I have had to adjust the last 4 or 5 I've done. I have a couple videos over at Hillbilly Garage if you want to see my struggle. Great information and as always thank you for investing the time to share your wisdom to help us grow as engine builders.
Thanks Ronnie, sorry for your bad luck. Very seldom I have had to modify the thrust beaarings.AG
That was a great video. Always learn something when I watch. Thanks!
Glad you liked it, thanks for commenting Edward.
Also when you use just one shell at half a thou you can fit at the top or bottom half of the rod. Then adjust your SQUISH HEIGHT and C/R by half a thou.
Good point, thanks Andrew.AG
You're the best Al!! Great video. Thanks!
What a nice compliment Dejock, comments like this makes it all worth while for me. AG
Thank you for another well done video = I always enjoy every video you have made = so informative!!!
Thanks as always 4speed. AG
Thank you !
And thank you for watching Charles.AG
Awesome directions and procedure
Thanks Patrick.AG
@@goldsgarage8236 Awesome Channel
I was in my late 20's and skipped measurements on just one rod journal on my 4 bolt main 400 chevy. Guess what it was a .0010 under and in 3 weeks it stacked a bearing and that snapped a rod. Luckily it did not damage my block. So soon I will be building a trail rider engine from said 400 four bolt main. Micrometers can cost alot but far less than a 400 chevy block.
All good points that help to reinforce the point of this video. Thanks Phil. AG
Always good to have a refresher course! Thanks for that!! On the thrust bearing clearance, do you sand both front and rear faces equally or just the rear since the pressure is always pushing forward? Also on clutch cars many have a clutch switch similar to a neutral start switch to prevent the starter from engaging unless the clutch pedal is depressed.
Actually, i have only had to do that very seldom, but just one surface. Thanks for reminding me about the safety switch preventing starting unless the clutch is depressed. In that case, I guess you don't have much choice. AG
Remember make measurements at room temperature 🌡️
When working in 1/10 of .001 inch materials expand shrink especially aluminum.
Good point Motorhead. Thanks for commenting.AG
Another fine video, guys. I learned a thing or two. But the question I have is this: you said to check your manual for specs, what 'manual' should I look for for my engine? I'm not sure I trust things on the internet. Got any book or website recommendations? Mine is a Chevy 350 block too. A 639 casting (roller cam block). Should I assume it's manufactured to the same cylinder and crank specs as an 010 block? Thanks!
Thanks for the comment 100. The manual I was referring to is a reproduction of the original. I checked amazon and there is a variety of manuals available. If you search CT400, that engine is a race version of the ZZ6 which is the same block. You might also check GM PERFORMANCE. hope this helps. AG
@@goldsgarage8236 I guess you mean the books from Haynes and the how-to books by David Vizard and others. I suppose I just didn't consider any of those as manuals. But I'll keep looking. Thanks.
For head bolt threads I use Permatex 2.
Thanks for the tip John. AG
Great videos, i learn something with each one. A question i have is, if decking a block, small block chev for example, does intake fitment become an issue? This engine decked at 20 thousandths for example, or is there an amount once removed that it becomes an issue? If so, what is the remedy? 3 questions i guess.
Thanks for the question NDirt. .020" or even .030" does not create a problem. The gap at the China wall may be tighter, however most builders fill it with silicone anyway. If the heads are cut also, the assembly should be mocked up to check alignment. Hope this helps. AG
Great information! Thank you
Glad you found it helpful. Let me know if you have questions Brian. AG
Awesome video!
Thanks Bob.AG
i love this kinda stuff
Perfect, thanks Mike and please keep watching.AG
I always found the Metric System was a lot easier to use when blueprinting and assembling. But that's just me, I hate doing math. lol.
Thanks Alvars, for sure it is easier to just move the decimal point. AG
I bet you remember "The Border Bandits" Barrie Poole raced Fords for Sandy Elliot Ford dealership in Ontario........
Thanks John, yes, I do, although I did not know him personally. Lot's of history. AG
Mixing bearing shell halves of different clearances, won't that make the junction where the two bearing halves meet be of different heights? Such as if you ran your finger over the place where the shells mate, you will feel a step? This step could gouge the crankshaft journal?
Thanks for the question Robert. The bearing is wider at the junction to create the oil wedge, , so the crankshaft should never make contact there. Hope this helps.AG
@goldsgarage8236 Interesting, thanks. I learned something here. On researching this, some chamfer the bearing half with the smaller diameter so as not to have the step up(high spot) on the parting line of the bearings. But it looks like this is not necessary.
So some of the information (Bearing clearance for example) are they specific to each manufacturer?
Yes Joe. Its always good to check manufactures specifications, however a general rule of thumb is .001" of clearance per inch of bearing. Most rod and main bearings are between 2-3" in diameter. AG
Can a factory cylinder bore be smaller than 4.00??? My manual says the tolerance can be 3.899 to 4.003 or something similar i don't recall exactly what it said but it had a value under 4" ...im wanting to swap out the dished factory pistons in a vortec block with aftermarket flat tops stamped as "STD" or standard diameter not overbore. Will these pistons "drop in" as they say??
Ive never done this before so im a bit intimidated 😢 thanks for any advice
You always must measure.. and you must rehone the cyls so when it's being honed everything can be squared up.
The clearance is built into the piston ie the bore is 4" and the piston will be 3.995" for a .005 clearance.
From what I recall standard bore on a 350 SBC is 4.00”s. There’s a lot more to building an engine than just slapping a set of pistons in. An aftermarket set of heads with smaller chambers to up the compression and a camshaft will really wake that thing up. If you’re going to a carb I’d add a rpm air gap intake and a 650 quick fuel carb.
Thanks for the question Marcus. You will probably be OK, but I would suggest measuring the clearance, or have someone to do it for you in at least 1 cylinder. Piston tolerances are very tight, so if one is ok, the rest should be also. Hope this helps. AG
👍👍👍
Thanks Mark.AG
Hello Alan, I built a 383 last summer with a used crank, turned 10/20. The mains were in at 25 tenths and rods at 14 to 19 tenths and I buttoned it up. Got to thinking and ordered some .020X bearings which are 2 thou bigger. Can I pull the pan and put 1/2 of those bigger bearings on one side to get 24 to 29 tenths clearance or .0024 on the rods? I really don't want to pull this sbc apart, the new Enforcer heads are on too? Thanks!
Thanks for the question Cliff. You are fine with the clearances you have. I would not touch it. AG
Nice engine
Thanks for watching and commenting Robert, Merry Christmas.AG
Does oil weight make a difference when setting your oil clearance
Good question Roger. I think you should set the correct bearing clearance first, then use the correct oil viscosity to get the desired oil pressure. AG
How did you measure the cam bearing clearances?
Good question Baron. Only test fit the bearings over the respective cam journal prior to install, then test fit the cam in the engine after. AG