Replacing RUSTED Anti roll Bar Link on 2010 Mazda 6 (GH)

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  • Опубліковано 24 лют 2024
  • Step By Step on how to change the Antiroll bar end link on a 2010 Mazda 6 GH. (Even if it's Rusted and impossible to remove)
    Other names are sway bar link, stabilizer link
    antiroll bar link link: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115965633540
    #mazda #led #diycar
    Disclaimer:
    Due to factors beyond the control of Klavs, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. Klavs assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. I, Klavs recommend safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Klavs, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Klavs.
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КОМЕНТАРІ • 10

  • @CasSpell
    @CasSpell 4 місяці тому

    I never understood the engineering behind spinning threads, because situations like this where angle grinders are needed is way too common 😂 If i see there is room for one, i use it straight away when link bars starts to act up like this 😅 Now i know i need to be prepared when doing this on my Mazda 6!

    • @KlavsX_
      @KlavsX_  4 місяці тому +1

      Only positive I see ( and had to use it in past) When the nut is rust-welded to the antiroll bar itself, you will be able to get off the link.

  • @mirceabarca5828
    @mirceabarca5828 4 місяці тому +1

    Instead of cutting the nut, you can use locking pliers to block the spinning when you use the spanner with the nut. This method is ok only if you want to replace the link bars, you can't use them any more.

    • @KlavsX_
      @KlavsX_  4 місяці тому

      That is a way. ( I did try locking pliers first) Sadly in this situation, it didn't work, that's why I had to take out the rotary tool.

  • @alandriver9916
    @alandriver9916 4 місяці тому

    Great video as always, but shouldn't you have put copper paste in the new bolt?

    • @KlavsX_
      @KlavsX_  4 місяці тому

      Before putting back the wheel I sprayed some Rust Shield on the threads. I did mention it in the video... I hope I didn't cut that part out my mistake 😅

  • @xlev6
    @xlev6 4 місяці тому

    Hi how are
    I have my steering is heavy left and moving right it self
    Does i have to change steering pinion kit or just rubber inside the tourqe sensor (beige plastic rubber with ring )

    • @KlavsX_
      @KlavsX_  4 місяці тому

      Hi.
      I had it too. Sometimes it can be fixed with recalibrating because of the torque sensor, if that doesn't help would be the sensor it self, pinion you have to check if it's alright. Doesn't show wear.

    • @xlev6
      @xlev6 4 місяці тому

      I found the rubber plastic that set inside the Pinion and the tourqe sensor come set on it , i found it in AliExpress with 30usd $ . They say it broke some time and tourqe sensor can’t read from the ring in the plastic rubber . Can I change it only because the steering rack pinion ( steel pinion +rubber+tourqe sensor ) set is very expensive . If i can can i change it without taking the steering rack out
      Only open the hood insid the car in the bottom of brake and gas paddles?

    • @KlavsX_
      @KlavsX_  4 місяці тому +1

      Interesting I will need to investigate that. Yeah parts for this car isn't cheap.
      If I'm not wrong, the angle sensor is just above the steering rack, it's on the shaft that goes in the interior. Can't say if it's closer to the rack or the cars body