The plates in the video are made from 3lbs of clay with no trimmed foot. FYI. I've had a lot of questions about this so I thought I would post here at the top. Thanks!
Hi Matthew, I think you said you bisque them in stacks of 3 or 4...? Do you just stack them or use sand or something between them? I've had my plates crack when doing this but perhaps that's because I've been trimming footrings on mine. Thanks
@@MatthewKellyPottery not sure I was clear...mine cracked when I used sand. They cracked around where the angle changes from flat base to curve of rim. It could be my kiln though, I'm gas firing in a tiny kiln. Will try your way next time as a test
This is the BEST video on making plates. I was SO intimidated by making plates until I saw your previous video and this one helps even more! I was actually having the rim issues you describe, so I'll be making plates today! YAY! Thank you so much!
Beautiful job! I believe this is the best educational video on plates I have seen! I took pottery classes in college while in nursing school, but didn’t follow through with it. I got so busy working in the nursing field I put pottery on the shelf. I just bought a Skutt kiln and I’m finally starting to get back into pottery . I love your videos! Thank you for sharing your beautiful skills & talent...
Hi Matthew. I would like to see how you trim or take care of the other side of these nice plates. Loved your clear explanations. I'll try that next week👍😊
Thank you for all of your sharing. Your goodness as a man and human being comes through. God bless. Still trying to master your one piece goblet technique. It’s the best on the internet but boy they are not easy for me.
Great technique, simple yet smart. I've always struggled with plates; I can't wait to try this out. Minimal trimming the bottom I'd guess. Would be nice to see that.
Thank you, Matthew! I think I finally going to make plates, thanks to your video! :))) Could you, please, let me know, how you dry plates, how you get them of the bat? I noticed you don't wire them off. No warping troubles? Any tips on that? Thank you so much!
I’ve just learnt a few things to improve on doing my plates, which are uneven and cracking as they dry. So thank you very much. I will check out your other videos. Thanks Matthew.
Hi, I threw my plates using a different technique from yourself. I didn’t pull the clay until it was flat, I pulled out the clay and basically made a cylinder then shaped and formed it from there. The cracks are around the edge, below where the rim starts, but not in the middle as you might expect. I need to practice more but after seeing your way of making a pancake & lifting the outside with the rib I think I will make plates like that and copying your technique, I hopefully will be more successful. Thanks for your interest Matthew.
I tried and failed twice. Had trouble using the heel of my hand to open evenly. Good advice, but I haven’t mastered the technique yet. Will try again. I appreciate your video postings. Thx for the help. No response expected. You have better things to do, truly. As to future postings, I appreciate info as to moving product from the bat through trimming. Personally, I have trashed larger pieces, well thrown, removing from the bat, regardless of wiring after throwing and when partially drying. Never touched a wheel until my latter 50’s. Enjoying the journey. Have found potters to be a good lot, have to say.
I’ve heard of several ppl having drying issues. I’ve not had many problems with that other than when using bats that were not smooth. If they get rough there is a challenge of them drying on the bat. Wiring off is another option. I’ll add the wiring off to my tips and tricks series.
You're one of the three most talented potters that I've ever seen I would say if you needed a big job done I would come to you for the order out of everyone. But anyway I have a question I can throw a plate I'm not doing it right though obviously my plates are warping in the kiln it doesn't matter if they're sitting on a foot if they're sitting on a piece of Kiln furniture with the spikes they will warp they will bend a firing cone 6 clay at cone 6 according to my kill controller it's cone 6 and I also have a secondary pyrometer cone 6 all the way they match up perfectly. That leads me to think that I'm throwing them too thin however I've cut many of them in half and I've broken some in half that have warped and they're basically the same thickness all the way through very nice and they mimic a standard plate from a factory or wherever they're coming from. So I really don't know what I'm doing wrong I just threw a small side dish size plate for lack of a better term I don't know it's maybe 6 in across maybe seven turned out absolutely perfect and I did absolutely nothing different. This is the only aspect of pottery that I have difficulty with really I can take a pound of clay and pull a 12-in cylinder no problem so I've got the basic skills down I just don't know what I'm doing wrong when it comes to this if you have any insight into this please let me know. By the way I've done this with BMX and a local stoneware that kind of mimics beat mix although it's a lot softer you know probably know what I'm talking about it's a porcelain based stoneware I can't remember the term they use for that but you know what I'm saying very very low grog and what grog is in it is very fine. If you can help me out with this I'd be so grateful
Thanks Matthew for a very clear and informative demonstration on making plates. i know that when you fire your wood kiln you use wadding under your pieces. I use an electric kiln and fire to cone 6 but I would like to know how to make and use wadding . Any advice would be welcome. Christine
Very nice plates, I'll definitely be trying to make these. Problem for me as a hobby potter I've only got 4 12 inch bats so I think I'll make sets of 12, 10 & 8 inch (4) of each, then when dry, repeat. Cheers Bob 🇬🇧
I let mine dry on the bat and they pop off, but you have to have very smooth bats for that to work. Otherwise the clay will hold onto the bat as it dries and possibly crack.
Some people seem to have difficulty in imagining not having to wire the plate - include me in that...Can u explain your drying process in a bit more detail and how you release the plate off the bat? Most of my bats are masonite (I saw your comment on that) and was told by my teacher years ago to not let a pot sit too long on them. My question is - Does bat material make enough of a difference that I should switch to plastic? PS, I love your videos, you make it all seem so easy and with patience and practice... it is.
the clay you use looks very soft. what kind is it and where do you get it. Love your work btw and really enjoy your videos, thank you for the effort you put into teaching
I use a couple different clays but that is Hestia from Highwater. I use a pug mill to get my clay to the consistency I prefer depending on what I am throwing
Fantastic Matthew! I'm gonna try it. couple questions. do you wire off the plates or do they just 'pop off' the plastic bat when drying? Also, do you trim a foot ring/rings on the bottom of the plate or just leave as-is?
They will pop off the bat when they’re dry and it leaves a nice smooth bottom. These will not have a trimmed foot, just a flat bottom. Good luck! “Repetition is the mother of all skill”
Great video, great explanations. Sound quality was excellent! Do you ever have problems with s cracks, I notice you don't rib the bottom at all. Also how thick do you leave your bottom? Is there a foot ring?
No foot ring and no cracks. Cracks can come from many things including drying speed and which direction the clay is thrown on the wheel relative to wedging or pugging. I’ll try to add this to my tips and trick series coming soon.
Hey Matthew - Do you choose plastic bats when doing plates because they take longer to dry, the advantage being that they're less likely to warp? ... and otherwise you tend to use masonite, right? (which releases sooner because it's absorbent?) I read through all the comments below and many of your replies to the questions will not/do not appear even though you apparently did reply...Many asked if you finish/trim the plates after they release from the bats but I'm guessing that you don't? Thanks for educating us!... reading through again I saw your comment about the small knife and then sanding after glaze firing... is that something you do routinely?
I was using the plastic bats because of the width of the bottom of the plate. The plastic bats don’t have bat pin holes that go all the way through so I don’t have to worry about going over those holes with the bottom of the plate. I definitely don’t sand anything until it comes out of the glaze. I found that all of the other stages of sanding were unnecessary for the way I handle my work and how clean I throw. I hope that helps
How are you drying these? Do you ever have the center bow up in drying? I do a similar process in my class but with slabs, which we then raise up on the wheel much as you're doing. The center, if not weighted with a little sand bag, likes to bow up slightly...
Great video. I have struggled with plates in the past because they warp in the kiln. Haven't made any in a while. Might have to give it a try once again. As another asked.....do you wire off or let them pop up off the bat? If you trim them, can you do a video on that. Also, is there a certain way you fire them in the kiln? Flat or plate racks? I have heard some people stack them upright but I would think they would warp worse....have you tried that before?
Wow. Where do I start. Haha. These are not trimmed and pop off the bat when they are dry enough. I fire all of my plates flat on shelves. Bisque fired in stacks of 3-4 but glaze fired flat on my advancer shelves. Never heard of firing them upright. Warping I assume would come from uneven or rapid drying or being too thin.
@@MatthewKellyPottery thanks. I think mine dry too fast. I seen a you tube awhile back where they stacked them upright toward the elements but you would think that would make the elements life shorter.
I would love to see the process of how you trim the plates. Also, do you cut it while it's on the bat or just let it dry on there? How easy is it to remove? Would love to see the whole process including glazing :-)
These plates will dry on the bat and have a flat bottom, not trimmed. I made these for another potter. They will be glazing and firing them. Once they are dry enough they release from the bat and are easily removed. I do have another video of me glazing my dinnerware though.
Since you're starting from a flat "pancake" then lifting the rim, how might that yield a similar result to starting with a rolled slab, then lifting the rim? I'm only a hobby potter with minimum experience, so forgive me if this seems like a silly question.
No I don't have that problem thankfully. I think if they dry too fast or unevenly that could cause a multitude of problems. I fire my dinnerware in my gas kiln on Advancer shelves which are amazing at keeping pieces flat!
i don't see any bat pin holes . Are these bats with the pin holes that are covered. does this make a difference. as i make my own bats with standard 10" hole. cheers
Matthew Kelly Pottery I went to Home Depot used 1/2 plywood cut 12” circles and drilled a hole about 1/4 inch in. Still need to sand them and try. Probably easier to buy them. Plates dry better on porous mats. Plastic do you need to wire them ?
Matthew Kelly Pottery slow is better in a wet box or just covered in plastic for a week or two. Thanks for everything. I absolutely love your videos. You are blessed to have discovered pottery so young
So by not wiring these off how long normally do they take to pop off on those plastic bats? Do you cover them or slow dry them in any to help reduce warping. What precautions do you take to help avoid warping, something I fight in my plate making all the time.
Warping could come from drying fast or being too thin. Also make sure they’re drying on a flat surface. They definitely can’t dry too fast but I don’t cover mine. My shop has no draft though so it depends on many factors.
The plates in the video are made from 3lbs of clay with no trimmed foot. FYI. I've had a lot of questions about this so I thought I would post here at the top. Thanks!
Hi Matthew, I think you said you bisque them in stacks of 3 or 4...? Do you just stack them or use sand or something between them? I've had my plates crack when doing this but perhaps that's because I've been trimming footrings on mine. Thanks
I just stack them with nothing in between. Where did yours crack when firing them like that?
@@MatthewKellyPottery not sure I was clear...mine cracked when I used sand. They cracked around where the angle changes from flat base to curve of rim. It could be my kiln though, I'm gas firing in a tiny kiln. Will try your way next time as a test
@Avery Kamden yea, I have been watching on Flixzone for since december myself :D
You are the best, Matthew, your videos are fantastic. I am going to try these plates now! Thank you 🙏
This is the BEST video on making plates. I was SO intimidated by making plates until I saw your previous video and this one helps even more! I was actually having the rim issues you describe, so I'll be making plates today! YAY! Thank you so much!
You’re very welcome. I wish you and your new plates the best of luck.
Thank you for teaching as you go.
Beautiful job! I believe this is the best educational video on plates I have seen! I took pottery classes in college while in nursing school, but didn’t follow through with it. I got so busy working in the nursing field I put pottery on the shelf. I just bought a Skutt kiln and I’m finally starting to get back into pottery . I love your videos! Thank you for sharing your beautiful skills & talent...
You’re welcome. I’m glad the video was helpful!
I love your techniques & willingness to share them as well as ways to make them different or better. 3 lbs! Thanks so much! ♥♥♥
You’re very welcome
Hi Matthew. I would like to see how you trim or take care of the other side of these nice plates. Loved your clear explanations. I'll try that next week👍😊
Thank you for all of your sharing. Your goodness as a man and human being comes through. God bless. Still trying to master your one piece goblet technique. It’s the best on the internet but boy they are not easy for me.
You’re welcome. That one piece goblet wasn’t easy for me to learn even after 20 years as a potter. But keep going
You rock Matthew! Awesome video on making a plate form. Thank you very much, cheers
Thanks. You’re very welcome.
Great technique, simple yet smart. I've always struggled with plates; I can't wait to try this out. Minimal trimming the bottom I'd guess. Would be nice to see that.
I only run a small knife around the edge to knock the edge off. Then i don’t sand it until it’s out of the glaze firing.
Thank you, Matthew! I think I finally going to make plates, thanks to your video! :))) Could you, please, let me know, how you dry plates, how you get them of the bat? I noticed you don't wire them off. No warping troubles? Any tips on that? Thank you so much!
Hello Matthew. Great video. Helps me to make plates in a easier way. Greatings from the Netherlands
I’m glad to hear. Thanks for the hello
I’ve just learnt a few things to improve on doing my plates, which are uneven and cracking as they dry. So thank you very much. I will check out your other videos. Thanks Matthew.
You’re welcome. Where are your plates cracking?
Hi, I threw my plates using a different technique from yourself. I didn’t pull the clay until it was flat, I pulled out the clay and basically made a cylinder then shaped and formed it from there. The cracks are around the edge, below where the rim starts, but not in the middle as you might expect. I need to practice more but after seeing your way of making a pancake & lifting the outside with the rib I think I will make plates like that and copying your technique, I hopefully will be more successful. Thanks for your interest Matthew.
I tried and failed twice. Had trouble using the heel of my hand to open evenly. Good advice, but I haven’t mastered the technique yet. Will try again. I appreciate your video postings. Thx for the help. No response expected. You have better things to do, truly. As to future postings, I appreciate info as to moving product from the bat through trimming. Personally, I have trashed larger pieces, well thrown, removing from the bat, regardless of wiring after throwing and when partially drying. Never touched a wheel until my latter 50’s. Enjoying the journey. Have found potters to be a good lot, have to say.
I’ve heard of several ppl having drying issues. I’ve not had many problems with that other than when using bats that were not smooth. If they get rough there is a challenge of them drying on the bat. Wiring off is another option. I’ll add the wiring off to my tips and tricks series.
You're one of the three most talented potters that I've ever seen I would say if you needed a big job done I would come to you for the order out of everyone. But anyway I have a question I can throw a plate I'm not doing it right though obviously my plates are warping in the kiln it doesn't matter if they're sitting on a foot if they're sitting on a piece of Kiln furniture with the spikes they will warp they will bend a firing cone 6 clay at cone 6 according to my kill controller it's cone 6 and I also have a secondary pyrometer cone 6 all the way they match up perfectly. That leads me to think that I'm throwing them too thin however I've cut many of them in half and I've broken some in half that have warped and they're basically the same thickness all the way through very nice and they mimic a standard plate from a factory or wherever they're coming from. So I really don't know what I'm doing wrong I just threw a small side dish size plate for lack of a better term I don't know it's maybe 6 in across maybe seven turned out absolutely perfect and I did absolutely nothing different. This is the only aspect of pottery that I have difficulty with really I can take a pound of clay and pull a 12-in cylinder no problem so I've got the basic skills down I just don't know what I'm doing wrong when it comes to this if you have any insight into this please let me know. By the way I've done this with BMX and a local stoneware that kind of mimics beat mix although it's a lot softer you know probably know what I'm talking about it's a porcelain based stoneware I can't remember the term they use for that but you know what I'm saying very very low grog and what grog is in it is very fine.
If you can help me out with this I'd be so grateful
I've been looking for something like this for a long time. Thank you for this
You’re welcome!
I believe that we all seek inspiration! I have found this on all your videos Matt. Thank you for sharing [cliff form london].
Yes we all do. Glad I can help
Thanks Matthew for a very clear and informative demonstration on making plates. i know that when you fire your wood kiln you use wadding under your pieces. I use an electric kiln and fire to cone 6 but I would like to know how to make and use wadding . Any advice would be welcome. Christine
Thank you for the instruction. Good points and tips!
You’re welcome
Very nice plates, I'll definitely be trying to make these. Problem for me as a hobby potter I've only got 4 12 inch bats so I think I'll make sets of 12, 10 & 8 inch (4) of each, then when dry, repeat. Cheers Bob 🇬🇧
I understand. Do the best with what you have.
GREAT VIDEO. MY BIGGEST PROBLEM IS GETTING PLATES OFF BATT WITHOUT DAMAGE,ANY TRICKE FOR THAT?
I let mine dry on the bat and they pop off, but you have to have very smooth bats for that to work. Otherwise the clay will hold onto the bat as it dries and possibly crack.
great video Matthew, lots of tips. You do make it look SO easy: lol
Thanks Cliff
Some people seem to have difficulty in imagining not having to wire the plate - include me in that...Can u explain your drying process in a bit more detail and how you release the plate off the bat? Most of my bats are masonite (I saw your comment on that) and was told by my teacher years ago to not let a pot sit too long on them. My question is - Does bat material make enough of a difference that I should switch to plastic?
PS, I love your videos, you make it all seem so easy and with patience and practice... it is.
Ill make a short video about it in the near future. That should help the multitude of questions.
Hi Matt, I threw a few plates after watching your video. Will u do a video about trimming them? Thanks. Jill
I actually don’t trim my plates. If you watch my drying on the bat video I show how I handle pots drying on the bat.
How do you dry them? What exactly is your procedure? Looking to make new drying rack, but not sure on the best approach.
the clay you use looks very soft. what kind is it and where do you get it. Love your work btw and really enjoy your videos, thank you for the effort you put into teaching
I use a couple different clays but that is Hestia from Highwater. I use a pug mill to get my clay to the consistency I prefer depending on what I am throwing
Beautiful!
Thank you for all of your share
Fantastic Matthew! I'm gonna try it. couple questions. do you wire off the plates or do they just 'pop off' the plastic bat when drying? Also, do you trim a foot ring/rings on the bottom of the plate or just leave as-is?
They will pop off the bat when they’re dry and it leaves a nice smooth bottom. These will not have a trimmed foot, just a flat bottom. Good luck! “Repetition is the mother of all skill”
Great video, great explanations. Sound quality was excellent! Do you ever have problems with s cracks, I notice you don't rib the bottom at all. Also how thick do you leave your bottom? Is there a foot ring?
No foot ring and no cracks. Cracks can come from many things including drying speed and which direction the clay is thrown on the wheel relative to wedging or pugging. I’ll try to add this to my tips and trick series coming soon.
How do you keep large plates from warping when fired in kiln?
Hey Matthew - Do you choose plastic bats when doing plates because they take longer to dry, the advantage being that they're less likely to warp? ... and otherwise you tend to use masonite, right? (which releases sooner because it's absorbent?) I read through all the comments below and many of your replies to the questions will not/do not appear even though you apparently did reply...Many asked if you finish/trim the plates after they release from the bats but I'm guessing that you don't? Thanks for educating us!... reading through again I saw your comment about the small knife and then sanding after glaze firing... is that something you do routinely?
I was using the plastic bats because of the width of the bottom of the plate. The plastic bats don’t have bat pin holes that go all the way through so I don’t have to worry about going over those holes with the bottom of the plate. I definitely don’t sand anything until it comes out of the glaze. I found that all of the other stages of sanding were unnecessary for the way I handle my work and how clean I throw. I hope that helps
How are you drying these? Do you ever have the center bow up in drying? I do a similar process in my class but with slabs, which we then raise up on the wheel much as you're doing. The center, if not weighted with a little sand bag, likes to bow up slightly...
Thanks, Matthew! Love your work! What kind of rib are you using for these plates?
That is a wooden Kemper rib. I will probably be making my own soon or modifying some that I have. I’ll share that with you all if and when I do.
Great video. I have struggled with plates in the past because they warp in the kiln. Haven't made any in a while. Might have to give it a try once again. As another asked.....do you wire off or let them pop up off the bat? If you trim them, can you do a video on that. Also, is there a certain way you fire them in the kiln? Flat or plate racks? I have heard some people stack them upright but I would think they would warp worse....have you tried that before?
Wow. Where do I start. Haha. These are not trimmed and pop off the bat when they are dry enough. I fire all of my plates flat on shelves. Bisque fired in stacks of 3-4 but glaze fired flat on my advancer shelves. Never heard of firing them upright. Warping I assume would come from uneven or rapid drying or being too thin.
@@MatthewKellyPottery thanks. I think mine dry too fast. I seen a you tube awhile back where they stacked them upright toward the elements but you would think that would make the elements life shorter.
That sounds like a horrible idea in my opinion. But I don’t know everything.
I would love to see the process of how you trim the plates. Also, do you cut it while it's on the bat or just let it dry on there? How easy is it to remove? Would love to see the whole process including glazing :-)
These plates will dry on the bat and have a flat bottom, not trimmed. I made these for another potter. They will be glazing and firing them. Once they are dry enough they release from the bat and are easily removed. I do have another video of me glazing my dinnerware though.
Love to see how you trim the bottom of a plate.
Awesome explanation! Thank you for sharing! Question. How much clay do you use for the dinner plates?
Michael Gershman 3 pounds were used in the video
You’re welcome! And thanks for answering his question!
Thank you for this clear instruction! How many clay do you use?
That is 3lbs of clay
Great video!! At what point do you take them off the bat?
These will dry to the point that they release from the bat. Anytime after that they can be removed
@@MatthewKellyPottery Nice video! Do you not run a wire under the plate at any point? They just pop off your bats? Thanks
Tom Humphries yes they just pop off. If you use masonite bats you need to make sure they are smooth. Otherwise they will stick.
@@MatthewKellyPottery oh I see thanks, what type of bats do you use? I use plywood bats, I guess it wouldn't work with those.
Do you have a video on removing the plates from the bat and what to do after?
Not specific to the plates but I did make a video about my pots drying on the bats. I handle most of my pots the same way
@@MatthewKellyPottery thanks for your reply!
Since you're starting from a flat "pancake" then lifting the rim, how might that yield a similar result to starting with a rolled slab, then lifting the rim? I'm only a hobby potter with minimum experience, so forgive me if this seems like a silly question.
I’m not sure how they would work but if you’re working with a slab you might as well use a slump mold to make the dish.
Do the centers ever raise up in the drying, or either firing? Thanks
No I don't have that problem thankfully. I think if they dry too fast or unevenly that could cause a multitude of problems. I fire my dinnerware in my gas kiln on Advancer shelves which are amazing at keeping pieces flat!
How and at what drying stage do you cut them off the bats?
They release from the bat when they’re dry enough. I don’t trim them.
how do you finish the bottom?
🙏🏻
i don't see any bat pin holes . Are these bats with the pin holes that are covered. does this make a difference. as i make my own bats with standard 10" hole. cheers
These are plastic bats with bat pin holes that don't go all the way through. Where do you buy your material to make your own bats?
Matthew Kelly Pottery I went to Home Depot used 1/2 plywood cut 12” circles and drilled a hole about 1/4 inch in. Still need to sand them and try. Probably easier to buy them. Plates dry better on porous mats. Plastic do you need to wire
them ?
@@johnwaller238 I don't wire them off of the plastic bats and they are fine, but that could depend on how fast they dry.
Matthew Kelly Pottery slow is better in a wet box or just covered in plastic for a week or two. Thanks for everything. I absolutely love your videos. You are blessed to have discovered pottery so young
😮
So by not wiring these off how long normally do they take to pop off on those plastic bats? Do you cover them or slow dry them in any to help reduce warping. What precautions do you take to help avoid warping, something I fight in my plate making all the time.
Warping could come from drying fast or being too thin. Also make sure they’re drying on a flat surface. They definitely can’t dry too fast but I don’t cover mine. My shop has no draft though so it depends on many factors.
How much clay? 4lb? 🤗
3lbs