@@pacificmike9501Hi, I have a question. I just rebuilt the engine, changed cam from J to A2 Andrews, and put a new oil radiator. Now, after 2500 km my rear cilinder base gasket is sweating and also a litle bit at the rocker axel. My ideea is that the oil cannot pump oil fast egnouf from crankcase so I presume I too much pressure in the crankcase. I am considering removing the oil radiator.
Just wanted to thank you for all the valuable information you are a great mechanic. For it does not matter how long your videos are the more information you give us the better. I think so does alll of the subscribers that I know. You again
brought up memories of way back in the day of how many of us ran an old Ford power steering oil cooler & covered them with an old leather glove in cooler weather to block the air flow . . high rollers used a purple Seagrams 7 bag .
@@pacificmike9501 you sir are correct . now had I been drinking that " top shelf " instead of the more budget friendly juice I would have remembered that . plus your knuck and I share the same birth year . all my " parts " are OE and still kickin quite well . I won't insult you by asking if you'd like to sell that "47 .
'Twas a great time at Born Free. Nice to have made your acquaintance! Cooks Corner on a Friday night will always be a happenin' place. Thanks for the video and happy trails!
run one on all my bikes, Harleys need all the help they can get, being air-cooled.Simi syn in my shovelhead and 82 xls, full syn in my twin cam help a lot, also with a remote filter. and yea I believe a 30deg difference in temp is possible on iron heads, I also feel the difference.great review and stay safe!
Thanks for taking the time to make these videos Mike. Very helpful and informative for a fella who picked up his first Harley today! A 1970 FLH with a 1980 shovel on board. Old and lovely ... just like it's new owner. All the best from Western Australia.
Glad you had a good time at Born Free Mike! I like the bypass valve idea too, on my old evo sportster I ran one in Utah and during the summer it sure ran alot better! Hoping for a 4 speed trans video sometime if you ever get one in through your shop. Mines completely torn apart because I thought I needed to run a longer main shaft on an open primary set up for my cone shovel when it was set up for a pan.
Here in the UK I enjoy watching your video's. I have a 1975 1200 Shovelhead and a whole load of BSA's. There seems to be quite a few Shovels in England, don't know why ? but I'm glad there are.
Good info Mike...I have been running a remote oil filter and a cooler since the 1970’s. All custom made. Remote car oil filter and power steering cooler. I am still “Old School “ “ Ride Tight Be Safe “ Rico from Arizona 😎🇺🇸🌴🌵🇺🇸
On all my shovels ran coolers then thermostat coolers here in the Northeast winter's can be rough only ran 20/50 inwinter my shovels ran great and I had 6 of them Mike your the best love your videos later
Very cool a friend of mine sent me this video we’re building a shovel head FXR 83 for next years born free hopefully get it done you know it depends on other people getting their stuff done but thanks for the tip on the local are not familiar with Shovel head and so I would’ve never known they ran hot but I’m switching oil bags to one with a site glass off of a 92 FXR So lots of good information for me you might guess thanks again look forward to meeting you next year Scott the plumber
Cool. I've always been fond of Shovelhead FXR's. They put the power right to the ground. I've always enjoyed calling them "Rubber Shovels." See you at Born Free and hopefully Chopperfest (comin' up).
Awesome!!! I’m building a 76 shovel motor and have been watching your channel and I must say, you are the most informative and helpful person making these videos they’ve come across. I noticed in this video you have a SU carb on your bike. Do you have a video for setting up that carb for a 74” shove motor.?
Here in Sweden we have a cold start of the season....but it can raise to 40 degrees Celsius in the mid of July. Not bad to have a shut-valve on the oil-cooler!!!
I ran an oil cooler on my Shovelhead in the 1970s. I don't think I paid more than $20 for it at a Swap Meet in Indianapolis. I would go to Swap Meets whenever there was one. I would set up a table and offer my bagger parts for sale after I chopped my bike. They wouldn't sell much but I sold cans of Stroh's beer for a Dollar a can. I got an original Ness Digger Chro-moly rigid frame for $100. More effective than adding Horsepower to an engine is losing weight. That chopper with a stock 74 inch motor was quick!
Круто все с мотоциклами ,много что знаете Вы про мотоциклы,жаль что тока я по английский не понимаю по русский тока)но в общем очень крутые видео у Вас !Вы молодцы!!!👍🔥
Dear Mr. Pacific Mike, Again, love your contributions. Very educative, professional, great presenting. Hope you don't go commercial like some other bloggers who then drift off and start selling colored LED lights for saddlebags instead talking tech... OIL COOLERS. Appreciated this clip also, great background info. My question: I remember when I was a kid that some of the "outlaw" bikers would run their oil through the roll bars, instead of using an oil cooler. Have you ever seen this? Just cut a thread at each end of the bars to install an oil hose nipple and there you are (consider using a thermostat or bypass). What would be your proffessional opinion of this procedure (cheaper than buying a cooler)? Thanks for your input. Curt
Everyone who comes up with an idea thinks it's an original idea. I too had the realization that my "crashguard," now called something different, would hold oil out in the breeze. Well, it worked. Running across the desert in major heat, I could touch that bar and burn my hand. With a thermometer in my oil tank ( I have no idea how accurate it may have been), I calculated I had lowered my oil temperature 35 degrees. I'll never know how clean I had gotten the inside of that bar and, I had to remember not to touch it with bare hands. I finally bought a cooler. But, I think that thing worked pretty well.
Thanks for that honest reply, basically you suggest that I shoul get a cooler instead... I understand your arguments, burn danger and potntial dirt in oil... so I'll start saving for a real cooler asap. Thanks agaon and kep up the great work. Curt
Another big problem with the engine not coming up to temp is the metals don't expand to where they should be and things like bearing clearances stay too tight.
Mike I've Just had a Brain wave: Talking about oil coolers, Well; we could fit 'T' peaces with taps in the oil line and a bypass pipe. When on a local run, close both taps to isolate the rad from the oil flow so that the oil warms up without the cooler to a good running temperature. Then once back home for the night; - - Never forget to open the taps up again. This will inshore that no foreign bodies ever get stuck in the line. Engine off; before opening the taps up and convection will mix the cold oil with the hot oil. Just a thought. Take care now.
Mike my 72 super glide sounds like i have a lifter ticking when it gets up to temperature its awful .i might install this on it see if it cures my issue man sure wish i could send you a video of it doing it i could be totally wrong but thanks again for a great video ..much love from Detroit Michigan
I don't think so. I think it's time to inspect those lifters before they cause real damage. If that's a bit much, pay someone qualified to look it over for you. Could be a worn rolller. Could be insufficient oil flow to the lifters. Could be a worn out lifter. This stuff is entitled to wear.
Mike. I agree a cooler motor is a happy motor. Helps with pinging also. I've run a cooler on my bikes since 1965. Of course they didn't have a bypass valve back then. I'm running a big motor big horsepower now (166hp) it runs hot even with the cooler on the bike. I've got mine set up just like yours. Except I'm running an EVO. So the filter is right in front of the cylinder. Shops especially a Harley shop will never sell you a cooler for your bike. They would rather see you burn it up. Thanks for the video Mike.
Thank you. In the old days, we ran covers over the cooler in cold weather. About the only way I could keep a big motor cooler, was long duration cam and tall gears. Oh yah, and fat on the fuel.
hello mike this is tj i love your videos and havent ever disagreed with anything you do .however cooling the v twin is my arena. first i am an old skool rider as you know ,im 62 and been riding since i was 13 thats right 13 in montana we did not need a license back then evil knevil used to ride here in montana without one too. anyway my first bike was a new harley in 1974 it was in great falls montana and the dealer wanted it gone as it leaked oil and gas ,and it would not run [brand new] ya it was a [AMFER] when i moved to hotter climate i soon discovered that the v twins enemy was heat and how to cool it down. we all used to run those junk coolers on our bikes [they never worked] if you cut them apart or see how the oil flows, you see right away the cooler does not go thru the lines as you would think .what it does is the oil goes in goes across the to the other line and back down . even on new design it does the same thing. only if you turn the cooler upside down and force it from the bottom and out the top [one line at bottom one at top] you may have to cut and weld to make that happen ,but some you can just flip upside down. but even then only 10 to 15 degrees . i put them on my truck 2 of them the big coolers put them upside down in line and back to the trans only got 30 degrees drop. back in the day we used to run our oil thru the crash bar tap it at the bottoms and back to the oil bag,this only got us 15 to 20 degrees ,and like you said mike when its colder weather the bike wont ever warm up so the bypass is a good idea. we only used the coolers that mounted up front of the front jug . the one you have i never saw one till a few years ago. we called the crash bar cooler the [rainbow] as it pushed oil up the bar it ran across and dribbled down the other side back to the oil bag. if you want the cooler you have to cool as much as you can , modify it to force the oil thru the cooler and out the top it would cool some ,but no more than 20 degrees oil temp. you can put a thermo dipstick on it and bypass to get a reading of it going thru the cooler and without . i have designed a [cool bar] i call it that can cool a v twin engine down 100 degrees or more . the hotter your engine runs the more i can cool it down. i also have 2 pattens on my design [the enforcer] method i call it. i have a buissness but have not put them on the market yet i also have a design for all older v twins that does not use a crash bar and does not have a oil cooler bolted on the side like you have but is hidden so it is cosmetic and it also works with a thermostate design to keep oil temps constant. as you can see mike i am NOT writing to sell something i am writing to help other riders who will be rebuilding a motor every 3 years or so if you are in hot climates. if you are gonna run this cooler why not make it work the best you can? unless you have a cooler that i dont know about it will not pass thru the oil lines only run straight across and back down . it will only work if one line is on top and one on bottom forcing the oil out. i have seen some coolers that have a snake design that is one line with the fins surrounding it ,but is too small even with a thrmostate as it will stay open all the time in hot weather . you have a great channell mike and i know you are into function ,not fiction. keep it cool mike later..........................tj
You really have peaked my interest. The cooler I am currently using is a "Jagg." I will contact the manufacturer and ask about how it passes its oil through. I recently bought an infrared thermometer and wanted to check temperature and make some judgements on my tuning. Since you've brought this up again, I will do some research on my cooler. I did run a crash bar cooler back in the eighties. One of my friends just came up with a nice little fan I'm going to try and hopefully, I will be able to make some judgements with my thermometer. Thanks. Lets play this one some more.
Hey Mike, Thanks for all the great info in your vids. Agree 100% with the oil temp thing, I run a 78 FXE and when it's in the right temp zone you just know it. There's a lot "thats how ya do it !" on your ride but what caught my eye was your forward controls. The 78 FXE has no mounting provisions on the right side down tube for a forward brake bracket and I want to stay away from drilling / welding, also have doubts about rigging up some kind of clamp mount. Did you have to deal with some sort of similar mounting issue or would you have a suggestion? Oh yeah, please dont tell my brother Joe I first rode this bike in "79 cause he'll be wanting to come over here and "talk" about that. See ya on the road.
I ain' tellin' Joe nuthin'. However, clamping up there is not the best idea. V-Twin has all the bits and pieces a person might want to weld to their frame. I know you don't want to, but it is the answer. Mine is an FLH and came with the brackets from the factory.
Mike....I see you run an SU carb on your shovel. I ran (and still do) SUs (I have a 2incher in my attic) when Carl Marrow and Mel Magnet first began playing with them. Pretty hard to beat an SU....if it's even possible....walt...tulsa,ok
You bet. That two incher is a pretty rare bird these days. I know a guy who says he has several brand new ones. I suppose if a had a really big incher... You know, Mel left quite hole in the industry. So like, please build a big incher and run that carburetor.
Hi Mike I just bought a 56 pan and it has a foot shift. I found a brand new jockey top from an after market company in California on ebay. No instructions and they closed their doors in the 70s so wondered if you might help me. My 4 speed foot shift is not what I want so wondered if I pulled tranny out and put it in neutral can I just replace the ratchet lid with this brand new jockey shift top if I leave it in neutral as well... I am one of those old 80 year old ex 1%er and have not been on a scooter for 40 years. Thanks Mike Appreciate all you do.... bob
A service manual should show it all. Or, install the stock ratchet lid with a lever attached to it. The aftermarket companies that handle stuff for the older bikes stock a bolt on lever for a stock ratchet lid.
Hi Mike! This is just a video request :) Looking forward to the build. I recently enquired about a 58 panhead clutch not working well on starting off. Can you go over adjusting a heal toe clutch?
I think what you're looking for is this: Go to pacific mike's homepage on youtube. Click on the word videos. Now find the one that says "Part 2, Adjusting Early Primary Belt." I think that will ddo it.
At first I ran mine without an themostat inbetween it, when you coldstart it your oil pressure goes way up, and since it never gets to operating temp in colder weather it will keep a higher pressure, didnt like that, so I put a thermostat in between it so everything goes without me ever forgetting to turn the valve.
Hi Mike and thanks for all your videos, Hoping you could tell me what brand of oil cooler you are showing in this video, It looks like a 6 row Jagg but yours has 90 degree horizonal fittings on the bottom and the jagg has vertical fittings out the bottom. Thanks
Thank you. It's made of pieces and parts of other windshields. Because I shortened the top piece, I had the bottom piece made at a plastic shop where I used to live. To get it adjusted right, I put it on the lift so it would be sitting straight up. The lift was down all the way. Then I smoked a cigar at it with a fan running on it. True story.
Enjoy your videos, Mike. How’s your knowledge on the 96’ evo, fuel injected? Had a metal fatigued compensator nut snap off on my crank shaft, trapping the compensator extension shaft on the crank shaft. Had finished replacing the the shaft seal and was reassembling. Was told to cut off the extension shaft and replace it. All of the HD service department leads I’ve talked to say they’ve never seen that happen. Any help would be appreciated. I’m a Vietnam vet, undergoing chemo for lung cancer and haven’t been on my bike since January... I’m bugging out, bro!
I'd have to look at it. Sometimes, you have to be creative, especially when it's something quite unusual. Sounds like some serious heat occurred. Diagnosis and creative repair means you have to find the right guy i your area.
Hey Mike, great video again. On an Evo engine with a standard front mounted oil filter, where do you mount a cooler in terms of the hoses? Do you want to cool the oil before it enters the filter or after? Or should it go elsewhere?
Hello Mike, I have a 1982 FLT and looking into taking out the cooler and just moving the oil filter to the front of the bike, just looking for your opinion on this move. Thank you for reading this. God bless.
I don't know where you live, but I really like a cooler on a Shovelhead. They do run a bit warm, nothing as warm as a Twin Cam, but warm. But, they didn't come with coolers, so there you have it. As to the filter, move it where you like it. See, it's really about you and your preferences. That is a neat bike though. Comfortable Shovelhead with a 5 speed. What's not to like there?
Redundant question. On my 83 fxsb shovel, my return oil line from the oil pump loops through the oil filter first, then the oil cooler, then to the top of the oil tank return port. Is that right? All the fittings are for 3/8" I.D. hose. Is using transmission cooler hose ok. Thanks for sharing your vast knowledge.
I ain't cool enough to have vast knowledge. But historically, we've always run from the oil pump return line to the oil cooler, then through the filter and back to the tank. Yes cooler hoose and fittings are fine.
Another great video Mike! Wanted to ask another question, apologies if it's a long one, I'll try to keep it simple. But I'm a pretty young guy trying to find a lifetime hobby out of motorcycles, specifically old Harley's. My goal is to be able to learn all about the shovelhead, and I want to be able to rely on my self almost 100 percent to work on her myself. I understand a few things I may have to visit a specialist for or machine shop, but generally speaking. I will get my first motorcycle someday in the near future I hope, and I understand it's going to be a long learning process, but I'm willing. I guess my question is, where do start for now, as in learning what I can to get to that point? What do I study? Or will I just have to wait until I get the bike, because experience is all that counts? I apologise for the long post, but thank you in advance if you see this
Everyone starts somewhere. Books, magazines, service manuals, bike shows, visiting the vendor booths. Don't forget parts manuals. Finding people with the same interests is really big. My dad had a service station. My interest started there and branched out. Everyone does it their own way. My first Harley was $200.00 basket case. Truthfully, when I got it together and running, it wasn't that great. It's all about learning. I'm still learning. As it grows, you can help others and they can help you.
@@pacificmike9501 thanks for the reply! I'll keep doing what I'm doing now, studying as much as I can! Hopefully soon I'll get a bike and maybe one day I'll see ya on the road, haha
That's it. This one was intended for a 2000 something Bagger. I ordered it for a customer, and he didn't use it. So, I put it in stock, and there it was. I'd had an old cooler for years. So, I used this one. It is a Jagg, as is the bypass valve.
Thanks Mike!. I moved my stock 63 Pan from Wisconsin to SoCal four years ago. I very quickly started having collapsing hydraulic lifters. I stuck an oil cooler on it and switched up from 50 to 60W and no more problems. I like your bypass valve idea though. Where does one get one of those ?
The aftermarket suppliers of parts for Harleys carry them. Hayden is a company that made the thermostatically operated ones. Jagg made the manual one I have now.
Mike I hope you receive this question. Glad I saw the Jaggs manual bypass. Going to get one. Do you recommend a brand of plain old oil line? Otherwise the stuff on Jaggs site look good enough for me. Thanks
Is that a Jagg cooler and bypass valve? If so, a complete cooling system is between $500-600 bucks which includes a bypass valve, oil filter adapter, hose clamps and hose. I was told to use Earl's Super Stock 250psi hose, size 6, 3/8" hose nowadays because the typical parts store oil hose, including the Made in USA hose, will not hold up anymore over a short time. Earl's was 87 bucks for 20ft, but what's 87 bucks on a 20k bike. I also was told not to use the Harley Locheart oil coolers because it does not swirl the oil. I was told to use an oil cooler that swirls the oil. Thanks a bunch!
Wow. That is a Jagg cooler intended for a different model. So, I kinda "freeformed" the installation. I ran a Hayden cooler for many years and it was fine. I use 3/8" fuel line for oil lines. I buy it at the local parts house, generally in 50 ft. rolls.
My bike mentioned, 1969 FLH. I know you are going to run non Harley sidehack, so your mounts are not getting in the way like the stock Harley front top and lower mount, which takes away most of the mounting spots. I have some really neat old skool oil coolers and non fit because of the sidecar mounts. I do not want to mount one on the crashbar. The little ford power steering looking cooler will fit, but I am sure it will not do the job
Sure. I color code according to Harley's service manuals from the seventies. That way, anyone can trouble shoot. I do each system by itself. Again, easier to diagnose.
Great videos Mike. I don't know if it makes any difference, but on my shovel, the oil filter is separate from the oil tank. The oil filter is between the oil pump and oil tank on the return line. So I installed my oil cooler in between the oil filter and oil tank which is still the return line. My thinking is that it's better to have filtered oil flowing through the cooler. Am I splitting hairs here?
Mike, I have an old 1975 Ironhead, since getting my Roadking it hasn't had much luv anymore. Any way you could do a rebuild of one for us? I rode the Ironhead all over for years and hate to just leave it needing attention.
I still have old promises to keep. My goal (as an old retired guy) is to finally build my bikes. I am gradually getting caught up. I'm finishing up the promises to my friends, and trying to keep my promises I made to me.
I am trying to figure out how to run the cooler lines on my stock 68 electraglide. It is a little different with the generator and squash exhaust. I have Jagg cooler and thermostat valve
Mike, can you help me with a question abut oil? Does conventional oil "break down" when riding in excessive heat? Meaning that it loses its lubricity and is also unable to cool the bike down?
i have a tc88 with s&s evo mounted cases on a rigid frame.... do i need an oil filter adapter? or can i run the cooler from my return line, like you did..? does it mess up oil pressure?
I've only done twin cams with the adapter at the oil filter. Just following instructions from the oil cooler manufacturers. I have not experimented further with this.
Mike, do twincams run warmer than shovels? Gonna put one on my tc88, in wisconsin its nice and hot a short time but I head west now and again, and its much warmer out there. My 82 fxr is stock and runs warm, but I dont run long with her, any advice would be great.😎
It has been my experience that the twin cams run very hot. However, though they may be cooking the rider, the motor appears built to handle it. Personally, I like oil coolers.
Thanks for info Mike. Im getting new rocker box oil line kit for my 72 shovelhead, 93”stoker. Cause my oil line from engine goes from the left side rocker then to right rocker. My rockers gets hot. Maybe needs more oil in there. The new rocker box line goes from engine then split off to both rockers at the same time instead of the left one first then continue to right. You think this helps to keep rockers cool????
Actually, no. Shovelheads run warmer than Panheads. Panheads run warmer than Knuckleheads. Evos run cool. Twin Cams run very hot. In 1981 (don't know the date), Harley Davidson released a bulletin to their dealers about restricting the oil flow to the rocker boxes on Shovelheads. The reasoning was that too much oil would get there faster than it could drain down and cause too much heat up there. I don't remember the part number (I'm sure someone out there has it), but there was a fitting that was restricted down to lessen the flow of oil to the rocker boxes. It was installed at the crankcase at the bottom of the oil line. The rocker arms and shafts just need to be wet, as do the other parts up there. I used to braze fittings shut and then redrill them, since there doesn't seem to be anyone around with that part any more. I used to drill them either .060 or .065. I really can't say.
Technical question: I have a 76 FLH with an S&S oil pump and I'm running an oil cooler. Of course, my return goes to the cooler then to the tank. I'm running a straight fitting at the pump with a gentle loop going to the cooler. I've seen others use 90 degree fitting on the return line. What do you do and why?
I've never had a problem there. Remember, The oil pump is what is referred to as a "positive displacement pump." What this means is that what it pumps goes through it. Not just a little, all of it. It has precision fit gears. This is , of course, theoretical. Nothing is 100% efficient. What I hope you're doing, however, is using either a thermostat or a manual bypass valve for short runs and cold weather.
@@pacificmike9501 I'm running a JAGG manual bypass valve. I was taught that you cover/turn off your cooler on short rides or if it is cool enough for a jacket. And I think I've found the solution to my question. I found a 90 degree pipe fitting. Hopefully it will be the best of both worlds. And thank you for the quick response.
It is a way, way, old Cobin Gentry seatpan that I had upholstered here by a local guy who happened to have an elk skin in stock. And, he made it fit my butt exactly.
Hey Mike, having issues with my 69 flh sidecar rig spark knocking, when warmed up, at half and full throttle. I have reset the timing several times, which did not help. I am running 93 octane and ambient is mid to high 80s. I cannot find stiffer advance weights for the timer. I am getting ready to add an oil cooler and cooler plugs, but first I am going to run a cleaner through the carburetor to burn out the carbon in the cylinder and valves. Will an oil cooler help with the spark knocking or is my plan of attack feasible? I was told that I should run dual plug heads?? Thank you
That all sounds good. It really does sound like a carbon build-up in your combustion chambers. As I recall, V-Twin (Tedd Cycle) does carry advance springs for the early type centrifugal advance circuit breakers. It is super important that the advance weights are clean and lubricated. They rarely get the attention they need. It does sound like you'e attacking all the usual suspects. All of your thoughts are excellent. Something is not right. Distributor is going to take some real attention.
Mike, I have a unrelated question but Ive got a starter that is just clicking on my 76 fxe have checked battery voltage ,checked all wiring ,new solenoid, and a high voltage starter (the small one)new bendix? I am stumped at this point what else to do
Well, it's a process of elimination. If you take a piece of insulated wire (so as not to shock yourself), and touch it to the little post on the solenoid to the longest large post on the solenoid, I'll bet it works. That would indicate the starter relay or the starter button. If not, and all the things you've already installed are good, you have a mechanical problem at the syarter drive. Something is binding. But that first little test should tell you a lot. Let me know.
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks for your reply i have a little metal tab that I use under the rubber so that is how I start the bike and its still not engaging. so I will pull the starter and check that darn it! thanks again Mike
Hey Mike, you mentioned Pans run cooler than Shovels, and Knucks run cooler than Pans. Also that you don't run a cooler on Pans or Knucks. I have a 63 Panshovel so I was wondering, do the shovel cylinders and heads cause the heating problem for shovels? So all Panshovels and Gen Shovels would also have this problem? Or were the heating problems more for the Cone Shovels. Or even later for the 80ci engines? I saw your comment about Harley suggesting to restrict the flow in 1981, and it got me curious in general. Thanks!!
First off, Shovels don't runn too hot. They just run hot. A cooler makes them happier. I didn't say "restrict the flow," I said restricting the flow to the rocker arms is a good idea. They get too much oil, it sits in the rocker boxes and makes heat. Rocker arms and shafts just need to be wet with oil, not drenched. Harley put out a notice to the dealers in the eighties, and actually supplied a restricted fitting that went from the case to the line that went to the rocker arms. Don't expect any of the kids to remember it. I braised up some fittings (closed them up, then drilled them like sixty or eighty thousandths). I just use a small one now at the case.
@@pacificmike9501 Okay thank you for clarifying that. Would you recommend for a Panshovel or Gen Shovel to have an oil cooler? I guess I'm wondering if the shovel top end would make the bike run more hot.
That oil cooler was manufactured by Jagg. It was intended for use on a Twin Cam Bagger. The brackets mount it down in front of the motor. The brackets are bolted and powder coated in place on the unit. The cooler itself is now mounted sideways on my Shovelhead. It measures 8" tall and 2 1/2" wide. It is 1 1/2" thick.
Just seeing this two years later, and STILL just as informative and relevant !
Cool (so to speak).
Thank you Mike for the very simple, yet informative explanation on how to keep the shovelhead a "" Happier "" engine.
Thank you. I suppose I'm corny, but, "Happy" is everything to me.
@@pacificmike9501Hi, I have a question. I just rebuilt the engine, changed cam from J to A2 Andrews, and put a new oil radiator. Now, after 2500 km my rear cilinder base gasket is sweating and also a litle bit at the rocker axel. My ideea is that the oil cannot pump oil fast egnouf from crankcase so I presume I too much pressure in the crankcase. I am considering removing the oil radiator.
Oil cooler is a great investment for any harley and i learned something new to!! Had no idea a bypass was so important! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
@@pacificmike9501 it always is when you cover it mike, your very good and cover every part! Your experience and expertise is amazing!
Just wanted to thank you for all the valuable information you are a great mechanic. For it does not matter how long your videos are the more information you give us the better. I think so does alll of the subscribers that I know. You again
Thank you. We try to stay on point yet not leave anything out. I'm a work in progress. We'll keep trying.
a happier engine is a longer lived engine, no matter if a Harley, a Buick, or a Mann diesel... ALWAYS worth the view, Mike!
Thank you. My point exactly.
Love your set up man. Great info and video. Hope to see you next year.
Thank you and I'll look forward to it.
brought up memories of way back in the day of how many of us ran an old Ford power steering oil cooler & covered them with an old leather glove in cooler weather to block the air flow . . high rollers used a purple Seagrams 7 bag .
Yes, I remember it well. That was a "Crown Royal" bag.
@@pacificmike9501 you sir are correct . now had I been drinking that " top shelf " instead of the more budget friendly juice I would have remembered that . plus your knuck and I share the same birth year . all my " parts " are OE and still kickin quite well . I won't insult you by asking if you'd like to sell that "47 .
One of the few channels I like before even watching the content. Keep up the great work Mike. Amazing stuff.
Thank You
You've got one of the best videos.
Thank you.
You are the best mike keep the goodwork on !!
Thank you. I try. Again, a work in progress.
Great Info as always Mike!!
Thank you.
You're a smart man. Great advice for the bypass.
Thank You. I try.
Excellent information mike !
Thank you.
'Twas a great time at Born Free. Nice to have made your acquaintance! Cooks Corner on a Friday night will always be a happenin' place. Thanks for the video and happy trails!
Yes Paul on all counts. It was great to meet you in person and hang out. The show was awesome.
Mike, I love hanging out in your garage, have a blessed week my friend.
Thanks, you too!
So glad I watched this video. I plan on putting a cooler on my shove rebuild. Never thought of adding a bypass valve. Going to do it now, Rock on!
Thank You.
run one on all my bikes, Harleys need all the help they can get, being air-cooled.Simi syn in my shovelhead and 82 xls, full syn in my twin cam help a lot, also with a remote filter. and yea I believe a 30deg difference in temp is possible on iron heads, I also feel the difference.great review and stay safe!
Thank You. I appreciate your findings.
Thanks for taking the time to make these videos Mike.
Very helpful and informative for a fella who picked up his first Harley today!
A 1970 FLH with a 1980 shovel on board.
Old and lovely ... just like it's new owner.
All the best from Western Australia.
Thank you and, congratulations. I wish the two of you a long, successful, and adventure filled future.
Mike, you make the best videos! Wish you lived closer to Alabama. I’m building my first shovel and your videos are priceless! Keep up the good work!
Thank You.
Mike we in Canada 🇨🇦 loves you. The real deal.
Thank you.
Thanks for doing those videos.
Super explained n fascinating.
Thank You.
I was looking for a simple example of how to install a oil cooler, thank you.
You're welcome!
Glad you had a good time at Born Free Mike! I like the bypass valve idea too, on my old evo sportster I ran one in Utah and during the summer it sure ran alot better!
Hoping for a 4 speed trans video sometime if you ever get one in through your shop. Mines completely torn apart because I thought I needed to run a longer main shaft on an open primary set up for my cone shovel when it was set up for a pan.
Thank you. And, I think we're in agreement.
Here in the UK I enjoy watching your video's. I have a 1975 1200 Shovelhead and a whole load of BSA's.
There seems to be quite a few Shovels in England, don't know why ? but I'm glad there are.
As long as they're being loved and enjoyed, I think it's great. Took mine out today. Yahoo!
I love this channel, I need this information 👍
Glad to hear it!
Good info Mike...I have been running a remote oil filter and a cooler since the 1970’s. All custom made. Remote car oil filter and power steering cooler. I am still “Old School “ “ Ride Tight Be Safe “ Rico from Arizona 😎🇺🇸🌴🌵🇺🇸
Thank you.
On all my shovels ran coolers then thermostat coolers here in the Northeast winter's can be rough only ran 20/50 inwinter my shovels ran great and I had 6 of them Mike your the best love your videos later
Very cool. Thank you.
I agree. I put a Jagg oil cooler on my 01 TC 88. The cooler gets HOT on warm days but bike runs great
You bet.
Thanx for yours vidéos, very good. Best greetings from Switzerland 😃👍🇨🇭
Thank you too!
Nice job routing the lines!
Thank You.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Cheers
My pleasure!
as always COOL Mike !!
Thank you.
Thanks for info mike, looking at fitting one on my sons ironhead sportster
Glad to help
I'm adding one to the list. I have a '75 FLH and Missouri summers get really hot and humid.
I understand. Coolers really help.
I have an oil cooler on my Ironhead! I love it! It was there when I bought it!
It's my idea of showing her love. I try to get her anything she wants.
Hell yeah nothing wrong with that I hope to graduate to a big twin one of these days sooner than later
Very cool a friend of mine sent me this video we’re building a shovel head FXR 83 for next years born free hopefully get it done you know it depends on other people getting their stuff done but thanks for the tip on the local are not familiar with Shovel head and so I would’ve never known they ran hot but I’m switching oil bags to one with a site glass off of a 92 FXR So lots of good information for me you might guess thanks again look forward to meeting you next year Scott the plumber
Cool. I've always been fond of Shovelhead FXR's. They put the power right to the ground. I've always enjoyed calling them "Rubber Shovels." See you at Born Free and hopefully Chopperfest (comin' up).
nice neat install mike👍
Thank You.
Good valuable info mike
Thank You.
I hope I get to meet you one day I really admire what your all about
Thank You. I'll look forward to it.
Great idea. I wish my had one!
Everything can be had. Some things take a little longer than others.
Awesome!!! I’m building a 76 shovel motor and have been watching your channel and I must say, you are the most informative and helpful person making these videos they’ve come across. I noticed in this video you have a SU carb on your bike. Do you have a video for setting up that carb for a 74” shove motor.?
No. But, it's pretty basic. I've run them on Pans, Shovels, and even Flatheads. But then, it's been quite a while.
Here in Sweden we have a cold start of the season....but it can raise to 40 degrees Celsius in the mid of July.
Not bad to have a shut-valve on the oil-cooler!!!
That is true.
I see your running an SU carb, they have always been my favorite
Yes, they are a real quality "love" thing with me. I've run them for hundreds of thousands of miles.
Nice setup!
Glad you think so!
I ran an oil cooler on my Shovelhead in the 1970s. I don't think I paid more than $20 for it at a Swap Meet in Indianapolis. I would go to Swap Meets whenever there was one. I would set up a table and offer my bagger parts for sale after I chopped my bike. They wouldn't sell much but I sold cans of Stroh's beer for a Dollar a can. I got an original Ness Digger Chro-moly rigid frame for $100. More effective than adding Horsepower to an engine is losing weight. That chopper with a stock 74 inch motor was quick!
Great memories. Let's make some more.
Круто все с мотоциклами ,много что знаете Вы про мотоциклы,жаль что тока я по английский не понимаю по русский тока)но в общем очень крутые видео у Вас !Вы молодцы!!!👍🔥
Google translates for you. Right click on text, left click on "translate." Thank you.
Dear Mr. Pacific Mike,
Again, love your contributions. Very educative, professional, great presenting. Hope you don't go commercial like some other bloggers who then drift off and start selling colored LED lights for saddlebags instead talking tech...
OIL COOLERS. Appreciated this clip also, great background info.
My question: I remember when I was a kid that some of the "outlaw" bikers would run their oil through the roll bars, instead of using an oil cooler. Have you ever seen this? Just cut a thread at each end of the bars to install an oil hose nipple and there you are (consider using a thermostat or bypass). What would be your proffessional opinion of this procedure (cheaper than buying a cooler)? Thanks for your input.
Curt
Everyone who comes up with an idea thinks it's an original idea. I too had the realization that my "crashguard," now called something different, would hold oil out in the breeze. Well, it worked. Running across the desert in major heat, I could touch that bar and burn my hand. With a thermometer in my oil tank ( I have no idea how accurate it may have been), I calculated I had lowered my oil temperature 35 degrees. I'll never know how clean I had gotten the inside of that bar and, I had to remember not to touch it with bare hands. I finally bought a cooler. But, I think that thing worked pretty well.
Thanks for that honest reply, basically you suggest that I shoul get a cooler instead... I understand your arguments, burn danger and potntial dirt in oil... so I'll start saving for a real cooler asap. Thanks agaon and kep up the great work. Curt
Your a smart man.
I try to learn from smart people. Thank You.
Saw your bike by the 805 beer tent. I was hoping to hear it run.. lots of people were checking your bike out
It is rather loud, but she's a good old bike and I hope you had as much fun as I did.
Another big problem with the engine not coming up to temp is the metals don't expand to where they should be and things like bearing clearances stay too tight.
Very well put, and thank you. Something I should have said.
Beautiful bike.
Thank you.
Mike I've Just had a Brain wave: Talking about oil coolers, Well; we could fit 'T' peaces with taps in the oil line and a bypass pipe.
When on a local run, close both taps to isolate the rad from the oil flow so that the oil warms up without the cooler to a good running temperature.
Then once back home for the night; - - Never forget to open the taps up again. This will inshore that no foreign bodies ever get stuck in the line.
Engine off; before opening the taps up and convection will mix the cold oil with the hot oil. Just a thought. Take care now.
Now, that's cool and perfectly "inline."
I agree. My oil cooler lowers the temp drastically for the better.
Without the oil cooler the temp was like a furnace....
Shovelheads love oil coolers.
Pacific Mike I’ll be fitting one up to the Shove-Resurrect when that time comes. 😎cheers
Mike my 72 super glide sounds like i have a lifter ticking when it gets up to temperature its awful .i might install this on it see if it cures my issue man sure wish i could send you a video of it doing it i could be totally wrong but thanks again for a great video ..much love from Detroit Michigan
I don't think so. I think it's time to inspect those lifters before they cause real damage. If that's a bit much, pay someone qualified to look it over for you. Could be a worn rolller. Could be insufficient oil flow to the lifters. Could be a worn out lifter. This stuff is entitled to wear.
@@pacificmike9501 ok i sure will thanks again
Mike. I agree a cooler motor is a happy motor. Helps with pinging also. I've run a cooler on my bikes since 1965. Of course they didn't have a bypass valve back then.
I'm running a big motor big horsepower now (166hp) it runs hot even with the cooler on the bike.
I've got mine set up just like yours. Except I'm running an EVO. So the filter is right in front of the cylinder. Shops especially a Harley shop will never sell you a cooler for your bike. They would rather see you burn it up.
Thanks for the video Mike.
Thank you. In the old days, we ran covers over the cooler in cold weather. About the only way I could keep a big motor cooler, was long duration cam and tall gears. Oh yah, and fat on the fuel.
hello mike this is tj i love your videos and havent ever disagreed with anything you do .however cooling the v twin is my arena. first i am an old skool rider as you know ,im 62 and been riding since i was 13 thats right 13 in montana we did not need a license back then evil knevil used to ride here in montana without one too. anyway my first bike was a new harley in 1974 it was in great falls montana and the dealer wanted it gone as it leaked oil and gas ,and it would not run [brand new] ya it was a [AMFER] when i moved to hotter climate i soon discovered that the v twins enemy was heat and how to cool it down. we all used to run those junk coolers on our bikes [they never worked] if you cut them apart or see how the oil flows, you see right away the cooler does not go thru the lines as you would think .what it does is the oil goes in goes across the to the other line and back down . even on new design it does the same thing. only if you turn the cooler upside down and force it from the bottom and out the top [one line at bottom one at top] you may have to cut and weld to make that happen ,but some you can just flip upside down. but even then only 10 to 15 degrees . i put them on my truck 2 of them the big coolers put them upside down in line and back to the trans only got 30 degrees drop. back in the day we used to run our oil thru the crash bar tap it at the bottoms and back to the oil bag,this only got us 15 to 20 degrees ,and like you said mike when its colder weather the bike wont ever warm up so the bypass is a good idea. we only used the coolers that mounted up front of the front jug . the one you have i never saw one till a few years ago. we called the crash bar cooler the [rainbow] as it pushed oil up the bar it ran across and dribbled down the other side back to the oil bag. if you want the cooler you have to cool as much as you can , modify it to force the oil thru the cooler and out the top it would cool some ,but no more than 20 degrees oil temp. you can put a thermo dipstick on it and bypass to get a reading of it going thru the cooler and without . i have designed a [cool bar] i call it that can cool a v twin engine down 100 degrees or more . the hotter your engine runs the more i can cool it down. i also have 2 pattens on my design [the enforcer] method i call it. i have a buissness but have not put them on the market yet i also have a design for all older v twins that does not use a crash bar and does not have a oil cooler bolted on the side like you have but is hidden so it is cosmetic and it also works with a thermostate design to keep oil temps constant. as you can see mike i am NOT writing to sell something i am writing to help other riders who will be rebuilding a motor every 3 years or so if you are in hot climates. if you are gonna run this cooler why not make it work the best you can? unless you have a cooler that i dont know about it will not pass thru the oil lines only run straight across and back down . it will only work if one line is on top and one on bottom forcing the oil out. i have seen some coolers that have a snake design that is one line with the fins surrounding it ,but is too small even with a thrmostate as it will stay open all the time in hot weather . you have a great channell mike and i know you are into function ,not fiction. keep it cool mike later..........................tj
You really have peaked my interest. The cooler I am currently using is a "Jagg." I will contact the manufacturer and ask about how it passes its oil through. I recently bought an infrared thermometer and wanted to check temperature and make some judgements on my tuning. Since you've brought this up again, I will do some research on my cooler. I did run a crash bar cooler back in the eighties. One of my friends just came up with a nice little fan I'm going to try and hopefully, I will be able to make some judgements with my thermometer. Thanks. Lets play this one some more.
Put one on my Shovelhead before going to Japan. Still in service here in Washington.
That's a good thing.
Hey Mike, Thanks for all the great info in your vids. Agree 100% with the oil temp thing, I run a 78 FXE and when it's in the right temp zone you just know it. There's a lot "thats how ya do it !" on your ride but what caught my eye was your forward controls. The 78 FXE has no mounting provisions on the right side down tube for a forward brake bracket and I want to stay away from drilling / welding, also have doubts about rigging up some kind of clamp mount. Did you have to deal with some sort of similar mounting issue or would you have a suggestion? Oh yeah, please dont tell my brother Joe I first rode this bike in "79 cause he'll be wanting to come over here and "talk" about that. See ya on the road.
I ain' tellin' Joe nuthin'. However, clamping up there is not the best idea. V-Twin has all the bits and pieces a person might want to weld to their frame. I know you don't want to, but it is the answer. Mine is an FLH and came with the brackets from the factory.
Next year! Bike's up on the lift at the moment. I'll be back on the road next week.
Cool. See you next year. Or, who knows? Life's a gas.
Cool! 😎👍
Thanks! 👍
Mike....I see you run an SU carb on your shovel. I ran (and still do) SUs (I have a 2incher in my attic) when Carl Marrow and Mel Magnet first began playing with them. Pretty hard to beat an SU....if it's even possible....walt...tulsa,ok
You bet. That two incher is a pretty rare bird these days. I know a guy who says he has several brand new ones. I suppose if a had a really big incher... You know, Mel left quite hole in the industry. So like, please build a big incher and run that carburetor.
Hi Mike I just bought a 56 pan and it has a foot shift. I found a brand new jockey top from an after market company in California on ebay. No instructions and they closed their doors in the 70s so wondered if you might help me.
My 4 speed foot shift is not what I want so wondered if I pulled tranny out and put it in neutral can I just replace the ratchet lid with this brand new jockey shift top if I leave it in neutral as well... I am one of those old 80 year old ex 1%er and have not been on a scooter for 40 years. Thanks Mike Appreciate all you do.... bob
A service manual should show it all. Or, install the stock ratchet lid with a lever attached to it. The aftermarket companies that handle stuff for the older bikes stock a bolt on lever for a stock ratchet lid.
Hi Mike! This is just a video request :) Looking forward to the build. I recently enquired about a 58 panhead clutch not working well on starting off. Can you go over adjusting a heal toe clutch?
I think what you're looking for is this: Go to pacific mike's homepage on youtube. Click on the word videos. Now find the one that says "Part 2, Adjusting Early Primary Belt." I think that will ddo it.
At first I ran mine without an themostat inbetween it, when you coldstart it your oil pressure goes way up, and since it never gets to operating temp in colder weather it will keep a higher pressure, didnt like that, so I put a thermostat in between it so everything goes without me ever forgetting to turn the valve.
Cool. I used a thermostat for years. I just finally decided, I wanted to be sure it was doing what I commanded. Mechanical control freak here.
Hi Mike and thanks for all your videos, Hoping you could tell me what brand of oil cooler you are showing in this video, It looks like a 6 row Jagg but yours has 90 degree horizonal fittings on the bottom and the jagg has vertical fittings out the bottom. Thanks
It is a Jagg that was intended for a Twin Cam Bagger. Customer didn't pick it up. So, I fitted it onto my Shovelhead.
Great explanation! Quick questions. Is it possible to clean oil cooler, once removed? If so, what would you use?
I've never found a "fool proof" way to clean an oil cooler. If it is suspected of containing debris, I've always replaced it.
Thanks for the Videos Mike. Love that Windscreen ! Is it custom made or can you get them ? I'd love one for my 98 FLHR RK.
Thank you. It's made of pieces and parts of other windshields. Because I shortened the top piece, I had the bottom piece made at a plastic shop where I used to live. To get it adjusted right, I put it on the lift so it would be sitting straight up. The lift was down all the way. Then I smoked a cigar at it with a fan running on it. True story.
Enjoy your videos, Mike. How’s your knowledge on the 96’ evo, fuel injected? Had a metal fatigued compensator nut snap off on my crank shaft, trapping the compensator extension shaft on the crank shaft. Had finished replacing the the shaft seal and was reassembling. Was told to cut off the extension shaft and replace it. All of the HD service department leads I’ve talked to say they’ve never seen that happen. Any help would be appreciated. I’m a Vietnam vet, undergoing chemo for lung cancer and haven’t been on my bike since January... I’m bugging out, bro!
I'd have to look at it. Sometimes, you have to be creative, especially when it's something quite unusual. Sounds like some serious heat occurred. Diagnosis and creative repair means you have to find the right guy i your area.
Hey Mike, can you make a video on replacing seal or bushing on kickstart side from a shovel?
Sure, we'll do it as soon as one needs it.
Hey Mike, great video again. On an Evo engine with a standard front mounted oil filter, where do you mount a cooler in terms of the hoses? Do you want to cool the oil before it enters the filter or after? Or should it go elsewhere?
I'd put it after the filter, which is the easiest. And filtered oil into the cooler is also a good idea.
They make a space that fits right between the filter and the filter mount. Easy to hook up.
Hello Mike, I have a 1982 FLT and looking into taking out the cooler and just moving the oil filter to the front of the bike, just looking for your opinion on this move. Thank you for reading this. God bless.
I don't know where you live, but I really like a cooler on a Shovelhead. They do run a bit warm, nothing as warm as a Twin Cam, but warm. But, they didn't come with coolers, so there you have it. As to the filter, move it where you like it. See, it's really about you and your preferences. That is a neat bike though. Comfortable Shovelhead with a 5 speed. What's not to like there?
Redundant question. On my 83 fxsb shovel, my return oil line from the oil pump loops through the oil filter first, then the oil cooler, then to the top of the oil tank return port. Is that right? All the fittings are for 3/8" I.D. hose. Is using transmission cooler hose ok. Thanks for sharing your vast knowledge.
I ain't cool enough to have vast knowledge. But historically, we've always run from the oil pump return line to the oil cooler, then through the filter and back to the tank. Yes cooler hoose and fittings are fine.
Another great video Mike! Wanted to ask another question, apologies if it's a long one, I'll try to keep it simple. But I'm a pretty young guy trying to find a lifetime hobby out of motorcycles, specifically old Harley's. My goal is to be able to learn all about the shovelhead, and I want to be able to rely on my self almost 100 percent to work on her myself. I understand a few things I may have to visit a specialist for or machine shop, but generally speaking. I will get my first motorcycle someday in the near future I hope, and I understand it's going to be a long learning process, but I'm willing. I guess my question is, where do start for now, as in learning what I can to get to that point? What do I study? Or will I just have to wait until I get the bike, because experience is all that counts? I apologise for the long post, but thank you in advance if you see this
Everyone starts somewhere. Books, magazines, service manuals, bike shows, visiting the vendor booths. Don't forget parts manuals. Finding people with the same interests is really big. My dad had a service station. My interest started there and branched out. Everyone does it their own way. My first Harley was $200.00 basket case. Truthfully, when I got it together and running, it wasn't that great. It's all about learning. I'm still learning. As it grows, you can help others and they can help you.
@@pacificmike9501 thanks for the reply! I'll keep doing what I'm doing now, studying as much as I can! Hopefully soon I'll get a bike and maybe one day I'll see ya on the road, haha
Thank you. I look forward to it.
forgot to ask ya Mike who makes the bypass. cooler looks like a jagg, I have one on my 02 RK. they do the job well.
That's it. This one was intended for a 2000 something Bagger. I ordered it for a customer, and he didn't use it. So, I put it in stock, and there it was. I'd had an old cooler for years. So, I used this one. It is a Jagg, as is the bypass valve.
Thanks Mike!. I moved my stock 63 Pan from Wisconsin to SoCal four years ago.
I very quickly started having collapsing hydraulic lifters. I stuck an oil cooler on it and switched up from 50 to 60W and no more problems. I like your bypass valve idea though. Where does one get one of those ?
The aftermarket suppliers of parts for Harleys carry them. Hayden is a company that made the thermostatically operated ones. Jagg made the manual one I have now.
@@pacificmike9501 thanks much.
Mike I hope you receive this question. Glad I saw the Jaggs manual bypass. Going to get one. Do you recommend a brand of plain old oil line? Otherwise the stuff on Jaggs site look good enough for me. Thanks
Any good automotive parts supply calls it "3/8 Fuel Line." It just depends on the brand they carry.
Is that a Jagg cooler and bypass valve? If so, a complete cooling system is between $500-600 bucks which includes a bypass valve, oil filter adapter, hose clamps and hose.
I was told to use Earl's Super Stock 250psi hose, size 6, 3/8" hose nowadays because the typical parts store oil hose, including the Made in USA hose, will not hold up anymore over a short time. Earl's was 87 bucks for 20ft, but what's 87 bucks on a 20k bike.
I also was told not to use the Harley Locheart oil coolers because it does not swirl the oil. I was told to use an oil cooler that swirls the oil.
Thanks a bunch!
Wow. That is a Jagg cooler intended for a different model. So, I kinda "freeformed" the installation. I ran a Hayden cooler for many years and it was fine. I use 3/8" fuel line for oil lines. I buy it at the local parts house, generally in 50 ft. rolls.
My bike mentioned, 1969 FLH. I know you are going to run non Harley sidehack, so your mounts are not getting in the way like the stock Harley front top and lower mount, which takes away most of the mounting spots. I have some really neat old skool oil coolers and non fit because of the sidecar mounts. I do not want to mount one on the crashbar. The little ford power steering looking cooler will fit, but I am sure it will not do the job
Hey mike, rewiring my Shovelhead soon was wondering if you got any tips or things to make sure to do before I jump into this ?
Sure. I color code according to Harley's service manuals from the seventies. That way, anyone can trouble shoot. I do each system by itself. Again, easier to diagnose.
Great videos Mike. I don't know if it makes any difference, but on my shovel, the oil filter is separate from the oil tank. The oil filter is between the oil pump and oil tank on the return line. So I installed my oil cooler in between the oil filter and oil tank which is still the return line. My thinking is that it's better to have filtered oil flowing through the cooler. Am I splitting hairs here?
It makes sense to me. Cleaning a cooler is almost impossible. That being said, it makes very good sense.
Mike, I have an old 1975 Ironhead, since getting my Roadking it hasn't had much luv anymore. Any way you could do a rebuild of one for us? I rode the Ironhead all over for years and hate to just leave it needing attention.
I still have old promises to keep. My goal (as an old retired guy) is to finally build my bikes. I am gradually getting caught up. I'm finishing up the promises to my friends, and trying to keep my promises I made to me.
👍
Thank You.
I am trying to figure out how to run the cooler lines on my stock 68 electraglide. It is a little different with the generator and squash exhaust. I have Jagg cooler and thermostat valve
Depends on where you're mounting it. Stay clear of the pipes and try runnining inboard of the bottom right frame tube.
Mike, can you help me with a question abut oil? Does conventional oil "break down" when riding in excessive heat? Meaning that it loses its lubricity and is also unable to cool the bike down?
Not a chemist. Sorry.
i have a tc88 with s&s evo mounted cases on a rigid frame.... do i need an oil filter adapter? or can i run the cooler from my return line, like you did..? does it mess up oil pressure?
I've only done twin cams with the adapter at the oil filter. Just following instructions from the oil cooler manufacturers. I have not experimented further with this.
Mike, do twincams run warmer than shovels? Gonna put one on my tc88, in wisconsin its nice and hot a short time but I head west now and again, and its much warmer out there. My 82 fxr is stock and runs warm, but I dont run long with her, any advice would be great.😎
It has been my experience that the twin cams run very hot. However, though they may be cooking the rider, the motor appears built to handle it. Personally, I like oil coolers.
Curious
Any potential and or fabrication to add a micro small reliable oil temperature gauge as an option somehow/some where
I don't know when, but yes, I like the idea and have thought about it for years. Just haven't gotten around to it. But, I will.
Thanks for info Mike. Im getting new rocker box oil line kit for my 72 shovelhead, 93”stoker. Cause my oil line from engine goes from the left side rocker then to right rocker. My rockers gets hot. Maybe needs more oil in there. The new rocker box line goes from engine then split off to both rockers at the same time instead of the left one first then continue to right. You think this helps to keep rockers cool????
Actually, no. Shovelheads run warmer than Panheads. Panheads run warmer than Knuckleheads. Evos run cool. Twin Cams run very hot. In 1981 (don't know the date), Harley Davidson released a bulletin to their dealers about restricting the oil flow to the rocker boxes on Shovelheads. The reasoning was that too much oil would get there faster than it could drain down and cause too much heat up there. I don't remember the part number (I'm sure someone out there has it), but there was a fitting that was restricted down to lessen the flow of oil to the rocker boxes. It was installed at the crankcase at the bottom of the oil line. The rocker arms and shafts just need to be wet, as do the other parts up there. I used to braze fittings shut and then redrill them, since there doesn't seem to be anyone around with that part any more. I used to drill them either .060 or .065. I really can't say.
Thanks you
Your message cut off at Harley Davidson,
Why google do this is not good.
Technical question: I have a 76 FLH with an S&S oil pump and I'm running an oil cooler. Of course, my return goes to the cooler then to the tank. I'm running a straight fitting at the pump with a gentle loop going to the cooler. I've seen others use 90 degree fitting on the return line. What do you do and why?
I've never had a problem there. Remember, The oil pump is what is referred to as a "positive displacement pump." What this means is that what it pumps goes through it. Not just a little, all of it. It has precision fit gears. This is , of course, theoretical. Nothing is 100% efficient. What I hope you're doing, however, is using either a thermostat or a manual bypass valve for short runs and cold weather.
@@pacificmike9501 I'm running a JAGG manual bypass valve. I was taught that you cover/turn off your cooler on short rides or if it is cool enough for a jacket. And I think I've found the solution to my question. I found a 90 degree pipe fitting. Hopefully it will be the best of both worlds. And thank you for the quick response.
Very cool (so to speak). Thank you.
May I ask, is that a Corbin 2-up seat on your shovel im planing to import one from Corbin to make my wife a bit more comfortable on long runs.
It is a way, way, old Cobin Gentry seatpan that I had upholstered here by a local guy who happened to have an elk skin in stock. And, he made it fit my butt exactly.
Great Vid! Do you think a TC88 motor will benefit a lot from an oil cooler like the shovel motor does? I run the TC88 hard in summertime...
The Twin Cam motors are obviously built to handle a lot of heat, but I would run an oil cooler just to be kind.
@@pacificmike9501 Thank you for the fast reply and I will follow your advice!
What are your thoughts on running synthetic oil in a Shovelhead?
I finally got around to synthetic oil in my car. Sure made the old car happy. Probably try it in the Shovel come Spring.
Did I see dual plug heads on the shovel. Did I miss Something? Thanks.
They are STD heads and came with dual plugs. But, we dual plugged the original heads back in about 1980.
Mike I am running the same bypass after my oil cooler does my new oilfilter adapter need to be run after the oil cooler or before?
I generally run it after the cooler.
@@pacificmike9501 thanks just wanted to be sure
Hey Mike, having issues with my 69 flh sidecar rig spark knocking, when warmed up, at half and full throttle. I have reset the timing several times, which did not help. I am running 93 octane and ambient is mid to high 80s. I cannot find stiffer advance weights for the timer. I am getting ready to add an oil cooler and cooler plugs, but first I am going to run a cleaner through the carburetor to burn out the carbon in the cylinder and valves.
Will an oil cooler help with the spark knocking or is my plan of attack feasible? I was told that I should run dual plug heads??
Thank you
That all sounds good. It really does sound like a carbon build-up in your combustion chambers. As I recall, V-Twin (Tedd Cycle) does carry advance springs for the early type centrifugal advance circuit breakers. It is super important that the advance weights are clean and lubricated. They rarely get the attention they need. It does sound like you'e attacking all the usual suspects. All of your thoughts are excellent. Something is not right. Distributor is going to take some real attention.
Thanks Mike, I greatly appreciate it! I have some real work to do. Thanks again and take care.
Mike, I have a unrelated question but Ive got a starter that is just clicking on my 76 fxe have checked battery voltage ,checked all wiring ,new solenoid, and a high voltage starter (the small one)new bendix? I am stumped at this point what else to do
Well, it's a process of elimination. If you take a piece of insulated wire (so as not to shock yourself), and touch it to the little post on the solenoid to the longest large post on the solenoid, I'll bet it works. That would indicate the starter relay or the starter button. If not, and all the things you've already installed are good, you have a mechanical problem at the syarter drive. Something is binding. But that first little test should tell you a lot. Let me know.
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks for your reply i have a little metal tab that I use under the rubber so that is how I start the bike and its still not engaging. so I will pull the starter and check that darn it! thanks again Mike
Where can I get one of those bypass valves?
Any good aftermarket supplier. The brand is "Jagg."
I have a oil cooler I'm thinking right beside my oil filter has 2 set screw nuts and put oil cooler thee. 2001 Duce 1450cc
Cool (so to speak). Remember the importance of a thermostat or bypass valve so that your oil can reach a decent warm temperature in cold weather.
Hey Mike, you mentioned Pans run cooler than Shovels, and Knucks run cooler than Pans. Also that you don't run a cooler on Pans or Knucks. I have a 63 Panshovel so I was wondering, do the shovel cylinders and heads cause the heating problem for shovels? So all Panshovels and Gen Shovels would also have this problem? Or were the heating problems more for the Cone Shovels. Or even later for the 80ci engines? I saw your comment about Harley suggesting to restrict the flow in 1981, and it got me curious in general. Thanks!!
First off, Shovels don't runn too hot. They just run hot. A cooler makes them happier. I didn't say "restrict the flow," I said restricting the flow to the rocker arms is a good idea. They get too much oil, it sits in the rocker boxes and makes heat. Rocker arms and shafts just need to be wet with oil, not drenched. Harley put out a notice to the dealers in the eighties, and actually supplied a restricted fitting that went from the case to the line that went to the rocker arms. Don't expect any of the kids to remember it. I braised up some fittings (closed them up, then drilled them like sixty or eighty thousandths). I just use a small one now at the case.
@@pacificmike9501 Okay thank you for clarifying that. Would you recommend for a Panshovel or Gen Shovel to have an oil cooler? I guess I'm wondering if the shovel top end would make the bike run more hot.
Yes, it's a good idea.
Mike can you please tell us the hight of that cooler, thxx
That oil cooler was manufactured by Jagg. It was intended for use on a Twin Cam Bagger. The brackets mount it down in front of the motor. The brackets are bolted and powder coated in place on the unit. The cooler itself is now mounted sideways on my Shovelhead. It measures 8" tall and 2 1/2" wide. It is 1 1/2" thick.
With New Jersey Summer's I don't run my pan over 85 degrees outside
These bikes were made to run all over the world in all kinds of conditions. The factory service manual explains this. Have a look at it.