Hitachi C 10RJ blade misaligned, no heel adjustment
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- Опубліковано 11 жов 2024
- The adventure continues and probably ends with the Hitachi C 10RJ. My blade came misaligned from the factory and there is no designated user process for resolving this issue.
The fence is adjustable by loosening and moving the screw that the fence bracket hooks to. See page 41 in the manual. The set parallel to the miter slots. And yes, there is a heel adjustment.
There IS a heel (blade angle) adjustment to this saw - you just can't see it and it's not mentioned in the manual. I literally took mine apart to find it but I swear it's there. It's on the cast aluminum block that the front nylon holder (part 101) attaches to. It has two silver hex head bolts that bolt to the underside of the table. If you remove one of those bolts you will see the mounting holes are elongated which allows for significant lateral travel. I used a long ratchet extension to reach it. Loosen both bolts just till it can move side to side. Then adjust as necessary and re-tighten. Ta da!. Mine is VERY well aligned to the miter slots now - I'd saw within .010". Maybe not as easy as some saws but possible and not too hard to do.
Good on you for figuring that out. Hopefully other people will benefit from knowing that. It definitely should've either been documented in the manual or posted online as an addendum on their product page. I did take mine back and I went with the Skilsaw portable because I didn't want to wait until past the return window, but there were a number of things I did like about this saw.
He's right! I had one of these saws and the blade was not square to the table. Easy enough fix when you know about it. Hitachi either needs to ship their saws square, or tell us about it.
thank you ! (did find, however, there is a part 101 (cradle) at front and rear of motor and the hex bolts actually anchor the plate that the front cradle is mounted too ) I only needed to loosen the cradle to get the 1/16 " adjust I needed .
@@hj8607 would you be able to make a small video in regards to this location and adjustment?
I know alot of people who'd really appreciate it.
Cheers!
Hey Tim do you have a video on the steps you took? Can you suggest a UA-cam who's done it if you have not?
I've always adjusted the blade alighment on these types of tablesaws by loosening the trunnion bolts going all the way back to my early delta saw from the 80s and 90s , one of the first things you learn to do when learning how to set up a tablesaw properly, no big deal.
Part 101 is used twice and is a cradle at both ends of motor mounting . The hex bolts anchor the plate that the front cradle is mounted to . Loosen both to adjust. ( the cradles are attached with Philips screws and adjust nothing ) The hex nuts are metric , 10 mm .
It can also be adjusted by loosening the fence adjustment knob - 2 bolts underneath. Its likely off 1 tooth on the sprocket. I made that adjustment it was perfectly aligned after.
First adjust your rail. It looks like the back is kicked out to the right. Loosen the bolt the rear of the rail hooks and adjust your rail. The get a 10mm socket with at least an 8 inch extension go under the saw and loosen the two bolts located in the front of the saw. They are approximately 3 inches apart and each located parallel two phillip head screws. They are the only 10 bolts in the front the table. This will loosen the front part of the blade assembly. Then bring your rail close to the raised blade and make it parallel to your rip fence. Go under the saw and tighten the screws when you are happy with the adjustment.
Well, I could start by saying I obtained this saw today and at first inspection, was ready to return it. However after watching a descriptive video, was ennobled to keep the thing and I was gratified completely upon my observation that this saw is aligned quite differently from others. The trunion was out of alignment over 1/8" which I was able to correct within reason for now, using the two bolts at the operators side, next to the nylon bearing. I then attacked the bumped rack and pinion alignment by loosening a gear and moving the one side into alignment with the other. Finally I had to loosen the bolts the fence attaches to on one side and align (the fence) to the miter slot as the other end was measured. So in conclusion this saw is completely aligned, for now anyway, and I'm confident that it will perform admirably in the future.
John Rogers can you link this video you watched?
You are wrong. There are 2 Allen bolts at the back of the blade assembly that can be loosened to move that assembly left or right to make even a significant adjustment.
ALSO , just aligning blade and rip fence parallel to each other will stop binding (rive knife in place , always) . BUT if blade is not in perfect align with miter channels you will not be able to take advantage of cross cut sled . The push bar on sled can be made perpendicular to blade BUT the sled will be travelling off to the left or right of blade and making really bad cuts , ( a five cut alignment will lie to you and is worthless )
Well I must say that now that I've used the Hitachi for 2 jobs I am more than satisfied with this JOB SITE SAW. I wish you only the best in your wood working future (especially with the limited capacity of your Skil table saw). I only hope that all of your problems in the rhealm of both rough and fine carpentry can be solved immediately by customer service. Good vibes buddy, good vibes...
I have had a issue with the fence locking in place, it will not. The fence lock handle should lock the fence in place. After It's locked, I can push or slide the fence further from the blade by hand. This sucks! Is there a way to tighten the fence that you know of.
I really don't want to sound like a troll here so please don't take it that way. I have both lower and higher end table saws and misalignment has happened to me out of the box and is going to happen. Be patient and work with it. Figuring this out will not only give you a skill set for checking and fixing the saw in the future, but will hopefully bring about the understanding that woodworking is not a perfect set of 90 degree angles and perfect parallel cuts (and even when it is wood can get a little crazy on its own). This is especially true if you plan to ever work remotely.
ALso, I've worked with the dewalt version that this saw is trying to be and must say, it had similar issues out of the box. Though that may be less common with their brand, they also charge a bit more for their products. Sometimes the extra cash is worth it, sometimes it isn't.
As far as kickback; invest in a good push stick or make one. If you have decent downward pressure against the piece in between the blade and a decently aligned fence, you won't have too much to worry about. You are going to find that feeding from the back side of the table gives you much more control. Also, building a simple outfeed table is another effective and inexpensive way to make things safer. Yake a look at the table Jay Bates and April W. made on their youtube channel out of a single piece of ply.
Usually as soon as someone says they don't mean to sound like a troll, they're looking for an excuse to troll.
The operative point I think you're missing here is that HItachi does not provide instructions in the manual, NOR DOES THE SECOND LEVEL PHONE SUPPORT FOR HITACHI. After sitting with this saw for one week, looking online for other people's observations that might give me a CLUE how to adjust this saw. Others mentioned that it is very similar to a DeWalt model. I looked relative to the DeWalt's allen bolts, and even tried loosening those to discover a way to adjust this saw. No go.
I went above and beyond, called the manufacturer, waited for their response, got inventive in trying to make connections that don't exist to try to find a way to adjust this saw. The fact that it needs to be adjusted out of the box by all likelihood is not something I'm even remotely debating. The problem is that Hitachi simply does not make this information available to the user, nor can it be discovered after a pretty good amount of research. My mechanical expertise combined with how much this saw costs is not motivating me to take apart a $500 saw to learn all the eccentricities of one tool that will not profoundly improve my life. I'm sorry.
I took it back, bought a Skilsaw, it has a minor problem that's documented enough that I think I can fix. It also has a heel adjustment that is properly documented in the manual. This is all on Hitachi. I gave them the benefit of the doubt and even had a seperate argument with another augmentative contrarian that wanted me to believe I shouldn't expect that kind of precision, which is another can of bullshit. Why do people insist on talking rather than listening when the get to pontificating and writing long posts and finger wagging? I don't know, but I'm sure sick of it.
MakeJam then you are an idiot.I go straight to you tube.I could launch a rocket into space,or perform open heart surgery with a scalpel and my pause button.You seem like the type of asshole who would rather hound Hitachi over a missing bolt than to go to Depot and buy the bolt.Meanwhile your job is stalled as you haggle over the phone and wait for that"special" bolt.You are letting the "principal" of the whole thing ruin your day and pocket..Yeah in a perfect world all saws would be true.To actually go thru the trouble of making a video that has done nothing but show you're ignorance is pretty funny...thanks😂😂😂
Well, I could start by saying I obtained this saw today and at first inspection, was ready to return it. However after watching a descriptive video, was ennobled to keep the thing and I was gratified completely upon my observation that this saw is aligned quite differently from others. The trunion was out of alignment over 1/8" which I was able to correct within reason for now, using the two bolts at the operators side, next to the nylon bearing. I then attacked the bumped rack and pinion alignment by loosening a gear and moving the one side into alignment with the other. Finally I had to loosen the bolts the fence attaches to on one side and align (the fence) to the miter slot as the other end was measured. So in conclusion this saw is completely aligned, for now anyway, and I'm confident that it will perform admirably in the future.
This thread is one of the rarest forms of UA-cam cancer, in that, it's discovered in the most unlikely of places. The first comment opens with someone saying they hope their response doesn't sound like trolling, and then proceeds to be pretty casual and not sound anything like trolling... which is weird and makes you wonder why they even thought it would sound bad at all. Then the guy who uploaded the video responds disproportionately harsh while at the same time somehow making a really good argument, which only further adds to the confusion and chaos unfolding within. Then some random asshole responds taking it to the next level making it extremely personal. Then, hilariously, a completely random happy-go-lucky tumbleweed rolls through leaving a copy/paste response from a separate thread, almost completely irrelevant to the discussion and entirely oblivious to the absolute war that is going on in the room he just rolled through. All of that, on a simple video about a fucking tablesaw.... holy shit our species is jacked up.
Look a for aeroflynn video as the trunion blade adjustment screws are under front of table behind the front cover. In storage position look I front of table where trunion mount and you can see two screws. Kind of wierd they n'tcopy Dewalt on this. Its not as much a copy of dewalt as it looks. Basics are more like the Kolbalt.
Fence adjustment is very easy! 3 tabs the fence mounts to is adjustable with a Allen wrench.
I downloaded the pdf of the manual and it does address the alignment problem on pages 40 & 41. Also, the Dewalt has the same ruler configuration. It starts at 0" on the top row all the way to the end of the fence rail and starts at 8" on the bottom. I agree that I'd like the line of the blade to be 0" but I'm assuming there's some sort of context that seasoned contractors know about. Which would explain why all table saws have the ruler like that.
The PDF absolutely does not address THIS alignment problem. It addresses the bevel alignment, the bevel indicator, the rip fence alignment, and RIVING KNIFE TO SAW BLADE (but not the saw blade itself) If you don't believe me, call Hitachi and ask them where to find the "heel adjustment." The ruler thing was not the deal breaker. They all have weird ways of dealing with the 0 offset on the short side of the table.
As I said, on page 40 and 41 it DOES address this problem. It tells you how to make the rip fence and blade square. Stop being spiteful
As I said, that's not a heel adjustment. That is adjusting the RIP FENCE to the table, not the blade to the table. It is a common adjustment, so common, it has a name. It's called a "heel adjustment." The instructions in the manual have nothing to do with aligning the blade to the table, outside of aligning the bevel. Bevel adjustment and heel adjustment are equally important. You can align the riving knife to the blade and the the fence to the table, but not the blade to the table, which is the most important thing to align, because if the blade is not aligned to the MITER GAGE SLOTS, which are the ultimate source of truth in the same way that the tabletop is the ultimate source of truth when adjusting the bevel, when discussing alignment of a table saw.
Since you decided to respond to being proved wrong the way a 6 year old would mid-tantrum, I reported you to UA-cam and Google for harassment and lying to the public.
I think your projections make you sound more like the 6 year old considering I simply corrected you because you were, in fact, wrong. Now that you're getting indignant about it, you sound like one of those people. You know... one of those people who feels every slight is a travesty that must be dealt with by an authority figure. Something like.... a tattle-tale, perhaps? I'm sure UA-cam has better things to do with their time than respond to every baseless complaint against channels with literally ONE subscriber. I welcome any replies you have that actually address my responses on content rather than your arbitrary feelings about them.
there is an allen wrench adjustment on the rear
Jerry Ebner where is this located?
How do I adjust the face of the fence? It is not flush with the table and the top of the face of the fence is not square with the bottom of the face of the fence unless I put pressure on the back part of the fence. Thanks for any help you can offer.
Yooo I have this same issue. Did you figure anything out?
No I just clamp the ends of the fence to the table and try not to push too hard against the face of the fence or I use my own straight edge. It is very frustrating. I called Hitachi after I bought it and they wanted me to haul the whole saw 1.5 hrs away to get it checked. I also have a Hitachi orbital sander that is garbage. Will def not buy another Hitachi product.
@@ajdavis912 Ahh I see, not a terrible issue to have. I don't think the fence being perfectly perpendicular has that big of an impact. But I do wish it was adjustable.
How do you like your Skilsaw?
looking for a dado insert for mine. any suggestions?
After not finding one on the net I made one the same as my zero clearance for my miter.
- Run strips of masking tape over the stock insert
- mark edges with a pencil and cut with a razor blade
- place tape template over a piece of wood at least 3/4 thick
- cut along edges with table and/or miter saw
- remove your stock insert and turn on edge to alignment rip fence to thickness of insert
- replace stock insert, resaw new insert by running through saw then flipping over on the same but opposite edge
TAKE NOTE OF THE MACHINED SPLINE DOWN THE MIDDLE OF THE MOTOR MOUNT IN THE TOP OF THE HITCHI SAW AND THE SAME NIPPLE THAT HOLDS THE MIDDLE FRONT EDGE OF THE STOCK INSERT.
- mark these indentations and run a dado for the spline and use a drill press or chisel for the small nipple
- (IMPORTANT) now remove the rthing knife assembly completely (two allen bolts next to the saw)
- place your dado stack on the motor and your new insert into the slot
- use a scrap piece of wood and a clamp or two to hold the insert down while you slow adjust the blade up until you form your dado slot
- take of dado stack, replace standard blade
- BEFORE YOU REPLACE RTHING KNIFE put the dado insert back on and cut out a longer slot for the rthing knife to fit through. make it just long enough that it dosnt quit go to the back edge
- replace and align rthing knife and try to make sure it goes through the slot you just made
- this new insert will store on top of your blade wrenches on the side of the saw
I could not find one, so I just made 2 zero clearance inserts. One for single blade and one for dado
That’s a Easy fix
For your safety you need to find another hobby and or job so you don't hurt yourself
Grow up and adjust it.
Did you ever figure out that the fence locks are adjustable? Seems your issues in both videos are a lot to do w inexperience w table saws in general. Your issue with the ruler on the saw is moot. In 25 years I've never met a professional who would even consider using the built in ruler to set a fence.
We all gotta start somewhere.
They have a page now for this topic in the manual now labeled "Aligning Rip Fence to Blade on page 41.